Man you thought the engine was toast but reality it was just the valve stems and the rings! @5:04 it is totally normal to wobble like that since the rings are out of spec or toast. I know this because before I change my rings, my pistons would wobble like that too and after I replaced the rings, it sits nicely into spec. For what I know, the maximum cylinder wall gap for the N52 engine is 0.15mm and yours are still in spec! As for the bearings, man it's crazy how its still in good shape. As for mine, my bearings were scored lol! Anyways, in my opinion, if you didn't bought another engine and just rebuild the engine that came from the car, pretty sure you would save more money lol.
Yes, I totally agree. I needed my car though everyday, and it took me about 2 or 3 months total to learn, do all the work and swap it in and out. I'm sure I could do it in a week now that I know everything
Most (all?) piston skirts are tapered from top to bottom. Rocking on the thrust axis is not uncommon, but you shouldn’t have rocking on the non-thrust axis because it should be constrained by the rod bearing and wrist pin.
I really wonder why my engine was knocking/rattle a bit around 2000rpms and then would go away... I took the whole engine apart and I couldnt find the rattle.
i had a n52 with 200k km stock, the oil consumption was for me normal, when i beat it on the engine the consumption was higher but when i drove normal it was lower, the lowest was 0,5L on 2000km and when beating on the engine it was 0,5L on 700 km
I have the same engine, 06 330i and it doesn’t even burn a quart or liter over 5-6k miles. Car has 260k miles on it 😮. Ur car wasn’t probably maintained in its early life.
9:17 - Yes, that's normal the rod is sliding that much on the piston shaft. I'm not surprised the rod bearing are looking so good as the oil didn't get the chance to age ;) 10:44 - That's what I wanted to see ! The piston rings ! OMG ! Sell everything and find a 3.0 liters. You'll have more fun ;)
Yes sir. The bottom end is stout. The last 2 engines I've had no issues with the rod bearings. The piston rings were toast. The bad piston design combined with the non functional oil rings is the cause of the oil consumption except I was hoping to find why oil consumption went from 1L/1000km to 1L/300kms. Something must have broke somewhere. I was hoping to find that 😬. It must be the oil control rings or the cylinder head. I've had several people only replace valve stem seals and it didn't do anything to help oil consumption. Gona try to take it apart and look.
@@buildanddrive I feel you. It's like a mystery. We would like to see a 100% obvious mechanical reason why. Maybe you'll discover more when taking apart the head ?
Bolts missing and debris in the head. Large deposits fouling the plugs on 3 & 4. Someone has been inside that engine who couldn't care less and if they couldn't be bothered to replace the bolts, they probably made a mess in other areas. Maybe they fitted valve stem seals incorrectly? That would help to explain the large amounts of oil in the combustion chamber. The low rpm rattle could have been the DMF, it's not uncommon.
What bolts are missing? What's a DMF? Now I'm super interested to see if you are right about the valve stem seals. Maybe they tried to fix them and then damaged something. I'm going to pull my tools out of storage and take some valves apart.
Did you ever find out the source of your rattle? I had the same noise going on until one day she decided she was done, now I'm completely lost as to what happened as none of the codes indicate that she's done yet. Love the videos!
Hi Kind regards from closeby(i know the streets you drove for consumption issues ) and i really love your precise videos! I really was shocked by the piston rings problem. I found you because im deciding on buying either a m57d30tü2top powered e83 or an e83 3.0si n52b30....both engines have their problem, the n52b30 not as much as the b25 but still im considering which one to choose. Im going to follow your channel though!
@@buildanddrive actually that would limit the e83 choices very much. But it is not decided yet. My daily routine involves one short distance of 8km and one of 15km under the week over 100km on the weekend alone. So theoretically the n52 would suit me better...on the other hand the 3.0sd has plenty of torque...and agr is the worst problem...
have you checked your clearance on the valve guides? On the B30 I'm doing I'm almost out of tolerance (0.5) and it can really affect oil consumption too. I hesitate to change them...
Hello. I've been watching your videos and finding them very helpful. I'm planning on doing the timing chaining my 330i (n52) and was wondering what your thoughts are on replacing the chain and guides.. I don't want to have to replace the sprockets if I don't need to cause they are very pricey. But I also don't want to get in there and not replace them and run into an issue short after, bit of a dilemma. car has 195000km.
Depends on your budget and how long you want to keep the car. You can get some cheap eBay stuff for like 100$ or reuse the guides if they aren't worn or broken. I reused all my stuff, even the chain itself. Why are you wanting to replace the timing chain? Is it rattling?
@@aidanbuss8717 do you have the tools to replace the chain? You need to take the crank pulley off which is the hardest part. It takes a giant breaker bar and this other tool to hold the pulley in place
I have a 2007, 328xi and it started to have lifter‘s tick so I took the top head off replaced. The head gasket did pretty much everything in your videos and I replaced the hydraulic lifters and tappers so the loud clicking would stop, the Pistons of valves were completely fine but by the time I got everything put back together it seem like the ticking was still there any ideas ?
@@buildanddrive I am having the same issue with N52B25A after replacing the lifters (the issue appears only on the exhaust side cylinders 4 and 5) which is strange, as I am thinking that the head oil passages may be blocked.
Check to see no rockers fell off the exhaust side of the valves. I had one fall off when I put it back together. It's in one of my videoa but then you would get a knock code
For deglazed the cylinder are you going to use the sunnen paste and the felt fabric method this time? It seems the only solution to bring out the silicium from the alusil without damaging the cylinder. I plan to do the operation on my B30 and follow your videos with interest, which have already helped me to partially rebuild a B25.
I should have used the paste and special felt hone but didn't know. Car is still running good though, I think I got lucky the hone didn't do too much damage to the cylinder walls. I don't have any other rebuilds at the moment so I won't try that method. If the walls are fine, I suggest you don't touch them.
I'll put some pistons back in and check. From what I see. I think it's the pistons oil return holes and the oil control rings that are just a bad design. M52 fixed this issue on the TU motors using different rings.
@@buildanddrive First measure the gap. Allowable gap in used N52 engine is 0.15mm. If it is less than that you will be ok simply replacing the ring set. 0.01 tolerance you reffered is for new engine not for used one. No need to put the pistons back in. Measure the pistons separately then cylinders and determine the maximum gap (maximum difference)
How do I measure the pistons separately than the cylinders? In the video I measured the bores already. So I just measure the size of pistons themselves using a micrometer?
Is that for the b25? I thought in 2008 they redesigned the cylinder head and pistons rings because then we got the black top b25's and the new b30 engines in 2008.
![MAJOR BMW Engine Failure! Let's Tear It Down and Find Out What Went Wrong [Part 1] 🤯](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KuWzCYKGOIA/mqdefault.jpg)
![MAJOR BMW Engine Failure! Let's Tear It Down and Find Out What Went Wrong [Part 1] 🤯](/img/tr.png)
Man you thought the engine was toast but reality it was just the valve stems and the rings!
@5:04 it is totally normal to wobble like that since the rings are out of spec or toast. I know this because before I change my rings, my pistons would wobble like that too and after I replaced the rings, it sits nicely into spec. For what I know, the maximum cylinder wall gap for the N52 engine is 0.15mm and yours are still in spec! As for the bearings, man it's crazy how its still in good shape. As for mine, my bearings were scored lol! Anyways, in my opinion, if you didn't bought another engine and just rebuild the engine that came from the car, pretty sure you would save more money lol.
Yes, I totally agree. I needed my car though everyday, and it took me about 2 or 3 months total to learn, do all the work and swap it in and out. I'm sure I could do it in a week now that I know everything
Most (all?) piston skirts are tapered from top to bottom. Rocking on the thrust axis is not uncommon, but you shouldn’t have rocking on the non-thrust axis because it should be constrained by the rod bearing and wrist pin.
I really wonder why my engine was knocking/rattle a bit around 2000rpms and then would go away... I took the whole engine apart and I couldnt find the rattle.
i had a n52 with 200k km stock, the oil consumption was for me normal, when i beat it on the engine the consumption was higher but when i drove normal it was lower, the lowest was 0,5L on 2000km and when beating on the engine it was 0,5L on 700 km
Wow... That is pretty crazy. Is it a n52b30 or b25 engine?
B25
I have the same engine, 06 330i and it doesn’t even burn a quart or liter over 5-6k miles. Car has 260k miles on it 😮. Ur car wasn’t probably maintained in its early life.
@@bobbyr8071 yes, the n52b30 after 2010 seems to not have this issue because they changed these piston design
9:17 - Yes, that's normal the rod is sliding that much on the piston shaft.
I'm not surprised the rod bearing are looking so good as the oil didn't get the chance to age ;)
10:44 - That's what I wanted to see ! The piston rings ! OMG !
Sell everything and find a 3.0 liters. You'll have more fun ;)
Yes sir. The bottom end is stout. The last 2 engines I've had no issues with the rod bearings. The piston rings were toast. The bad piston design combined with the non functional oil rings is the cause of the oil consumption except I was hoping to find why oil consumption went from 1L/1000km to 1L/300kms. Something must have broke somewhere. I was hoping to find that 😬. It must be the oil control rings or the cylinder head. I've had several people only replace valve stem seals and it didn't do anything to help oil consumption. Gona try to take it apart and look.
@@buildanddrive I feel you. It's like a mystery. We would like to see a 100% obvious mechanical reason why. Maybe you'll discover more when taking apart the head ?
I think it's the bad piston design and the oil control rings stop working as intended over time.
Bolts missing and debris in the head. Large deposits fouling the plugs on 3 & 4. Someone has been inside that engine who couldn't care less and if they couldn't be bothered to replace the bolts, they probably made a mess in other areas. Maybe they fitted valve stem seals incorrectly? That would help to explain the large amounts of oil in the combustion chamber.
The low rpm rattle could have been the DMF, it's not uncommon.
What bolts are missing? What's a DMF? Now I'm super interested to see if you are right about the valve stem seals. Maybe they tried to fix them and then damaged something. I'm going to pull my tools out of storage and take some valves apart.
@@buildanddrive dual mass flywheel
Your first video mentioned that there were bolts missing around the timing chain area.
True. Those were for the front of the cylinder head. They were broken off in the head itself.
Did you ever find out the source of your rattle? I had the same noise going on until one day she decided she was done, now I'm completely lost as to what happened as none of the codes indicate that she's done yet. Love the videos!
I did not find the rattle but I assume it was knocking. Maybe piston wall clearance because that's the one thing I didn't measure.
Hi Kind regards from closeby(i know the streets you drove for consumption issues ) and i really love your precise videos! I really was shocked by the piston rings problem. I found you because im deciding on buying either a m57d30tü2top powered e83 or an e83 3.0si n52b30....both engines have their problem, the n52b30 not as much as the b25 but still im considering which one to choose. Im going to follow your channel though!
If you buy a tü engine or b30 after 2010, I don't think they have the consumption issues.
@@buildanddrive actually that would limit the e83 choices very much. But it is not decided yet. My daily routine involves one short distance of 8km and one of 15km under the week over 100km on the weekend alone. So theoretically the n52 would suit me better...on the other hand the 3.0sd has plenty of torque...and agr is the worst problem...
have you checked your clearance on the valve guides? On the B30 I'm doing I'm almost out of tolerance (0.5) and it can really affect oil consumption too. I hesitate to change them...
Me too. I didn't check the cleanance but I assume one of them is bad because there was a rattle but all good. Just get another car 😅
Hello. I've been watching your videos and finding them very helpful. I'm planning on doing the timing chaining my 330i (n52) and was wondering what your thoughts are on replacing the chain and guides.. I don't want to have to replace the sprockets if I don't need to cause they are very pricey. But I also don't want to get in there and not replace them and run into an issue short after, bit of a dilemma. car has 195000km.
Depends on your budget and how long you want to keep the car. You can get some cheap eBay stuff for like 100$ or reuse the guides if they aren't worn or broken. I reused all my stuff, even the chain itself. Why are you wanting to replace the timing chain? Is it rattling?
Valve cover gasket needs to be replaced, so figured I'd do the chain aswell. I do hope to have this car for a few more years
@@aidanbuss8717 do you have the tools to replace the chain? You need to take the crank pulley off which is the hardest part. It takes a giant breaker bar and this other tool to hold the pulley in place
I have a 2007, 328xi and it started to have lifter‘s tick so I took the top head off replaced. The head gasket did pretty much everything in your videos and I replaced the hydraulic lifters and tappers so the loud clicking would stop, the Pistons of valves were completely fine but by the time I got everything put back together it seem like the ticking was still there any ideas ?
Can you send me a video of the ticking noise on Instagram? What oil are you using?
@@buildanddrive I am having the same issue with N52B25A after replacing the lifters (the issue appears only on the exhaust side cylinders 4 and 5) which is strange, as I am thinking that the head oil passages may be blocked.
@@buildanddrive I’ll send it in a bit boss and liquid Molly atm
Check to see no rockers fell off the exhaust side of the valves. I had one fall off when I put it back together. It's in one of my videoa but then you would get a knock code
For deglazed the cylinder are you going to use the sunnen paste and the felt fabric method this time? It seems the only solution to bring out the silicium from the alusil without damaging the cylinder. I plan to do the operation on my B30 and follow your videos with interest, which have already helped me to partially rebuild a B25.
I should have used the paste and special felt hone but didn't know. Car is still running good though, I think I got lucky the hone didn't do too much damage to the cylinder walls. I don't have any other rebuilds at the moment so I won't try that method. If the walls are fine, I suggest you don't touch them.
Did you measure the piston - cylider gap? That's the main value you should get from these measurements.
I'll put some pistons back in and check. From what I see. I think it's the pistons oil return holes and the oil control rings that are just a bad design. M52 fixed this issue on the TU motors using different rings.
@@buildanddrive First measure the gap. Allowable gap in used N52 engine is 0.15mm. If it is less than that you will be ok simply replacing the ring set.
0.01 tolerance you reffered is for new engine not for used one.
No need to put the pistons back in. Measure the pistons separately then cylinders and determine the maximum gap (maximum difference)
How do I measure the pistons separately than the cylinders? In the video I measured the bores already. So I just measure the size of pistons themselves using a micrometer?
@@buildanddrive yes, using micrometer.
Pistons were 82.06mm or 07 according to my micrometer
no the piston should move that much ,, i think is the piston rings are bad how many miles did you say ?
100,000 kms
Is that the rebuilt engine of your car or is it another ebay special?
It was the original engine that was in my car. I took it out and swapped in the rebuilt one
Updated pistons were released in January 2010 and not 2008.
Do you have a source?
@@Mark-bd5ci realoem
Is that for the b25? I thought in 2008 they redesigned the cylinder head and pistons rings because then we got the black top b25's and the new b30 engines in 2008.
@@buildanddrive no for the n52 1st and second generation, the modified pistons came out in 2010.
@@louisvingtquatre5152 how do I check this on realoem?