The mutual contempt shared between these two lovers plays out over two acts. Act 1 vacuum line repair is the backdrop for an ever worsening relationship. She wants to leave him, he has always said he can find someone better, but as evident as the resentful pauses she has for him she is stubborn and refuses to let him have the freedom he so desires. Act 2 the tempo and dry wit of the dialogue , again mainly vacuum hose themed, accelerate into a frenzy as it becomes clear these two are trapped in a codependent nightmare. suspenseful and bitter, a romance gone wrong thriller that keeps you on the edge of your seat until the plot twist ending.
since we dont have a carburetor on this car, im not sure we will be making that kind of video. maybe if we decide to take apart the throttle body and clean that, but that is only a small part of the carburetor. general rule is if you want to clean something complex, like a carburetor, you need to take it apart, clean every piece by itself (soak everything in cleaner, scrub, rinse and dry), and put it back together, with new seals if possible. hope that will guide you in the right direction.
@@supplementaryservicemanual actually I have the same model with same throttle body. It is idling bad. I thought it would be nice for me to follow your video if you plan to clean the throttle body
i understand now. if we ever decide to clean the throttle body we will let you know. but if the throttle body butterfly valve is sealing (more or less), it is not responsible for holding the idle speed. the ISV (idle air valve) solenoid is responsible for keeping the engine speed without any throttle input (the big solenoid on the front of the engine with thick hoses). but still, it could be a lot of things. in the meantime, could you describe the bad idle in more detail? is it just unstable or does the engine speed go way bellow 800rmp?
in that case i would try to check ISV solenoid and start from there. do you hear it clicking regularly? did you try to pinch the vacuum hose or disconnected it from the airbox and block it with your finger and see if the engine speed drops and stays down? did you follow any troubleshooting steps from the official manual?
im quite sure that we mentioned that we are using silicone lines. they are still holding just fine after a year. we removed a few more lines, but that will come in an upcoming video.
Hola amigo me gustaría ver ese nuevo video donde anula las otras líneas de vacío, si pudiese mostrarlo haría un gran bien a la comunidad. Un saludo y gran trabajo@@supplementaryservicemanual
we removed most of the vacuum lines. the only one 'not strictly necessary' is the one for the idle throttle opener. you need the ISC solenoid lines and the pressure sensor lines or the EFI, or to be more precises, the whole engine will not work properly, if at all.
I did everything you showed at the video but still my RPM are high (2000 RPM) when the engine is warming up and afterwards it starts jumping( at 2000rpm and fall to 1500rpm). the simplifying of the emission system shouldn't have solve it?
when the engine is cold, the rpm is around 2-2.5k. the deletion of the emission system should not affect the engine rpm (cold or warm). are you sure you plugged all the unused holes in the throttle body? is your idle solenoid clicking or is it stuck open?
I'm sure about the closed unused holes, but not so sure whether the idle solenoid stuck open or not, actually I'm not sure how to check it and how it looks .@@supplementaryservicemanual
i think we mention what the idle solenoid is, but it is the one with the biggest hoses. unplug the hose from the air filter while the engine is warm, and put your finger over it. if the rpm drops, your idle solenoid is ether working correctly or it is stuck open. if you hear the clicking from the solenoid (it is quite loud) or you can feel how it sucks the air in pulses, then it is working. if it just sucks air i one continuous stream, then it is probably stuck open.
It works I didn't know the right name of it. For some reason it is blocked with a bolt on the side of the air filter, once I unscrew the bolt the rpm are going up(when the engine is warm)
we have a samurai where someone has blocked the idle solenoid. it runs really bad. if the engine goes up and does not self correct, maybe the solenoid is stuck open. turn off the car and try to blow the air from the side of the air filter through the solenoid. if you can do it, then it is stuck open and your probably need to get a new one. and that is for starters, hope everything else is working correctly.
i think we mention it in the video, the small one is 4mm ID, and the big one is 6mm ID. they have a thick wall so they dont collapse, the small one is 7mm OD, and the big one is 12mm OD.
The mutual contempt shared between these two lovers plays out over two acts. Act 1 vacuum line repair is the backdrop for an ever worsening relationship. She wants to leave him, he has always said he can find someone better, but as evident as the resentful pauses she has for him she is stubborn and refuses to let him have the freedom he so desires. Act 2 the tempo and dry wit of the dialogue , again mainly vacuum hose themed, accelerate into a frenzy as it becomes clear these two are trapped in a codependent nightmare. suspenseful and bitter, a romance gone wrong thriller that keeps you on the edge of your seat until the plot twist ending.
This is the most beautiful youtube comment ive ever read.
Hello, Do you have a video about throttle body cleaning? TPS, MAP and stuff? BTW, do you have a Samurai with one injector inside the throttle ?
this is an SPI EFI model. and we did not clean anything.
you can simply look at our suzuki samurai playlist for all the things we did.
Hey have issues with the same throttle when i drive for 10km idling drops to zero and car switch itself off. Kindly assist
efi or carb engine?
Brother do you have link for your service manual tnx
i can not give you what is not mine little bro.. but the one who searches will find.
Can you make a detailed video on carburetor cleaning? Thanks
since we dont have a carburetor on this car, im not sure we will be making that kind of video. maybe if we decide to take apart the throttle body and clean that, but that is only a small part of the carburetor.
general rule is if you want to clean something complex, like a carburetor, you need to take it apart, clean every piece by itself (soak everything in cleaner, scrub, rinse and dry), and put it back together, with new seals if possible.
hope that will guide you in the right direction.
@@supplementaryservicemanual actually I have the same model with same throttle body. It is idling bad. I thought it would be nice for me to follow your video if you plan to clean the throttle body
i understand now. if we ever decide to clean the throttle body we will let you know. but if the throttle body butterfly valve is sealing (more or less), it is not responsible for holding the idle speed. the ISV (idle air valve) solenoid is responsible for keeping the engine speed without any throttle input (the big solenoid on the front of the engine with thick hoses). but still, it could be a lot of things.
in the meantime, could you describe the bad idle in more detail? is it just unstable or does the engine speed go way bellow 800rmp?
@@supplementaryservicemanual actually the rmp goes up and down. Like it goes at 1200 or as low as 600 at idle.
in that case i would try to check ISV solenoid and start from there. do you hear it clicking regularly? did you try to pinch the vacuum hose or disconnected it from the airbox and block it with your finger and see if the engine speed drops and stays down? did you follow any troubleshooting steps from the official manual?
Good job.
thank you! :).
hello friend....what kind of line you used??....silicone material is good or bad??
im quite sure that we mentioned that we are using silicone lines.
they are still holding just fine after a year. we removed a few more lines, but that will come in an upcoming video.
Hola amigo me gustaría ver ese nuevo video donde anula las otras líneas de vacío, si pudiese mostrarlo haría un gran bien a la comunidad.
Un saludo y gran trabajo@@supplementaryservicemanual
we removed most of the vacuum lines.
the only one 'not strictly necessary' is the one for the idle throttle opener. you need the ISC solenoid lines and the pressure sensor lines or the EFI, or to be more precises, the whole engine will not work properly, if at all.
I did everything you showed at the video but still my RPM are high (2000 RPM) when the engine is warming up and afterwards it starts jumping( at 2000rpm and fall to 1500rpm). the simplifying of the emission system shouldn't have solve it?
when the engine is cold, the rpm is around 2-2.5k.
the deletion of the emission system should not affect the engine rpm (cold or warm). are you sure you plugged all the unused holes in the throttle body? is your idle solenoid clicking or is it stuck open?
I'm sure about the closed unused holes, but not so sure whether the idle solenoid stuck open or not, actually I'm not sure how to check it and how it looks .@@supplementaryservicemanual
i think we mention what the idle solenoid is, but it is the one with the biggest hoses.
unplug the hose from the air filter while the engine is warm, and put your finger over it. if the rpm drops, your idle solenoid is ether working correctly or it is stuck open.
if you hear the clicking from the solenoid (it is quite loud) or you can feel how it sucks the air in pulses, then it is working. if it just sucks air i one continuous stream, then it is probably stuck open.
It works I didn't know the right name of it. For some reason it is blocked with a bolt on the side of the air filter, once I unscrew the bolt the rpm are going up(when the engine is warm)
we have a samurai where someone has blocked the idle solenoid. it runs really bad.
if the engine goes up and does not self correct, maybe the solenoid is stuck open. turn off the car and try to blow the air from the side of the air filter through the solenoid. if you can do it, then it is stuck open and your probably need to get a new one.
and that is for starters, hope everything else is working correctly.
What's the inner diameter of these lines?
i think we mention it in the video, the small one is 4mm ID, and the big one is 6mm ID.
they have a thick wall so they dont collapse, the small one is 7mm OD, and the big one is 12mm OD.
Clamp