im so glad you're able to build your own home. as a builder, that feeling of being able to make your own choices and incorporate everything you know is so awesome
Honestly, the whole tear down was what Matt should have started with rather than go into it with remodel in mind. The problem is a standard remodel is you never know what you'll find until it's exposed. So a bit of dry rot here, and there, the house is out of square, out of level, out of plumb....that stuff cost a lot of money and time to correct since you're building new with another house in the way. Driving in nails only take a few seconds, pulling nails and studs back out by hand...yeah it'll take more than a few seconds it took to put it up. Building new, especially if you know what you're doing, there's a cap to how much you actually spend to correct all the issues related to infrastructure. So yeah over budget, but at the same time, you'll be so much closer to what you wanted than if you were to try and reuse the old framing. If you want to take the old framing and push it to what you want, there's no real limit to how much that can balloon up to.
@@WallStreetBeggar I would agree BUT it was clear from the outset the true condition of the house. It could have be remodeled but not up to his standard to become his own house. Once it became his future house that was coming down., If it was a remodel to flip it could have been done.
@@ColHunterGathers eh the true condition of the house was such that "remodeling" would have yielded a poor quality home that would have barely lasted another decade let alone 20+ years. If you listened to him talk about the
@@ColHunterGathers I quick home inspection would have told the true condition of the house. A quick discussion with a real estate agent would have given him the value of new vs remodel. It would have been an easy decision to tear it down. I could see that just from the design and condition here.
Matt, thanks for showing us your build. Very few builders would show their work as you do. I think they are worried of being critiqued and sued if something was done wrong. For the haters and complainers, I don't see your videos on youtube.
Matt, I am so excited for you and the family. We started building an addition to our home in early November that was supposed to be a little over 500 square feet. The architect designed the exact way I told him. When we started, we soon realize the design wasn't going to work. I then redesigned the project to 1172 square feet. I'm being the general contractor, and I'm having a blast. Like you, I'm so excited doing our addition. May the LORD bless you greatly as your project comes together. May HE A give you wisdom when you need it as this project continues on. "Walk with the KING and be a blessing!"
I’m so happy for you!!! This is awesome! After building so many amazing houses over the years finally you get to build your own! Well deserved my friend! God bless!
I remembered watching this one when it was first released but had to re looking up. I am starting to plan out little detached workshop and am collecting info for the build. In this case I was mainly looking for the sill detail.
insulated floors: cool idea but I live in Texas as well and I'm so thankful that I laid marble down directly on the concrete floor because I swear it literally cools the house down if not just my body walking barefoot around the house. Fortunately, my slab was piered before hand so no breaks since then, but in Texas, you WANT cold floors. lol.
If it hasnt been mentioned I'd love to see the build budget and actual costs as you go along . All of these "geeked" out items gotta cost a pretty penny. Thanks
That would be interesting though he most likely has unrealistically low costs. He must have "at cost" deals on all materials and probably some of the labor.
Oh Matt, I'm geeking out with you on this series! I can see the excitement on your face. I used the Tremco acoustical sealant in same way on my home. Steve's details a few years ago drove many of my design details too! 👍
Thanks for bringing us along on your journey Matt. Its been a lot of fun and I've learned a lot as well. You channel continues to be a great resource for those of us in the trades.
Thank you Matt for bring into the light about building our home , we going to inbark in this venture, in cathedral city California, I would love to invite you to come see our progress once we start going .
Matt, love your channel! Another You Tuber like yourself, Cole The Cornstar, a farmer like myself, is going to work on an awesome farm house built in 1919. It has the great woodwork, tall ceilings, solid foundation, just a great once in a lifetime project. However I think he really needs someone like you to get great advice.
Thanks Matt. Good luck with your Passive House goal! The detail of how to add an overhang to a roof/wall assembly that is blanketed in rigid insulation has me perplexed. Hope you show that detail when you get there.
Insulation on the slab is a great idea, i did something smaller scale in my kitchen and you can feel difference you can to room next door which is slab but hasn't had the insulation yet so is 2" lower, instant cold when you step on the floor next door.
Enjoyed the video Matt. Framing looks great. Surly it will qualify as passive construction. I'm excited to see this come together too. Thanks for taking the time to produce the videos. Y'all take care and God bless.
Hello Matt, I noticed all your interior stud wall sill plates are stressed by the rain water on concrete, theres a new way to keep all the interior sill plates dry always !! check out the Teksill vented sill plate , it raised your stud walls by 3/4 inch and keeps them dry always !!
For your floating floor system on the first floor don't you need a vapor barrier? You're in Texas but I'm in Wisconsin and there's usually moisture coming out from the ground threw the concrete. I've always been told you need a vapor barrier. Why did you choose an inch and a half insulation? Why do you need two layers of OSB on top of the foam ? what would your R-value be from all that?
I really like the series. The double bottom plate detail is nothing new in the commercial framing world. Schools have used that detail for the last 20 years that I know of. Well in California at least. But glad to see someone in the residential world bringing in some of the standard practices from the big boys world
Awesome details. especially those bottom seals and the floor build. Steve's ideas are GOLD! Cool choice with the LVL 2x4s 16". Not what I would have guessed, but it makes perfect sense as a part of the whole system.
I’d love to hear him discuss this (and maybe he has) but he may have saved that header and wall because depending on your local zoning and permit laws, what he’s doing here may technically qualify as a remodel if he preserves one wall from original structure, as opposed to new build. (Even though from a practical standpoint it is a new build.)
Congratulations! Happy you get to build your own dream place! Thanks for making these videos! I will be starting my custom home build next year and I will be documenting it! Learned lots from you!
@@Zamicol You may be thinking of XPS (Type 4 or 'rigid' insulation) or foil-faced polyiso. 2" of EPS has a perm rating of 1 to 1.25 so isn't a great vapor barrier. Matt may need one based on his local conditions to deal with the anticipated vapor drive, but it may/may not be necessary.
This allows you to have your air barrier and weather barrier inside the thermal envelope. Since it isn't subject to temperature extremes it helps with the longevity of the assembly. This is in line with Joe Lstiburek's "Perfect Wall" design.
Joel with Zip R, the air barrier and WRB are on the outside of the insulation. The assembly Matt is going to do here puts the insulation on the outside of the air barrier and WRB.
Cool, and love the insulated slab floor detail, but I have a question. You doubled the floor plate (total 3 inches yes ?) but your insulation and subfloor is coming up 3 inches. Where's the bottom nail/screw for the interior drywall attach and what's to keep the edge from going into the wall cavity ?
Call CRsolar in Texas if your looking for solar over 12 years installing.... Matt like tons of your ideas.. wonder will that plywood LBL studs warp if they are wet to many days during building - of course I suppose most people are using laminate beams and must be ok??
Can't sell it anymore because he went way over budget, so he decided to make it his own house. Now he's using his sponsor and youtube money to pay for his own house. Genius.
What's the ageing numbers on that air seal plastics? When do you expect these to be redundant? 10 years? 25? Would there be other materials, natural such, doing the same job but better for the environment and longer lasting?
You have the quad or quint 2X4 pack supporting the triple LVL points,, particularly the center of building where the custon saddle and three LVLs in each direction,,, What is the post sitting on? This is a remodel, rebuild, Is there a proper sized pad footing below the slab? Is the house slab structural,, (road screen, well laid out rerod,,)? Is the house slab floated on 3 inches of closed cell foam? I see the load coming down,,, but where is it going after it reaches the concrete?
@@buildshow Perfect ! That was a lot of load coming down in one spot. I have seen columns, wooden columns on remodels that have punched through concrete. Something in me would never expect a wooden column (soft) to punch through concrete (hard),, but, oh yeah, it does. I like your floating floor. I have done it once as well. Word from me,, space your sheets,,, and more than you would normally. Moisture imbalance,, small and chronic because of temp gradients or moisture, or an event (kitchen flood) If the individual sheets cannot expand enough,, the total will try to curl away from the moisture. Moisture gradient from below,, the room edhes may try to rise. Event? the floor will dome in the center. Spacing solves that. Install only after the roof is secure and water tight,, and the materials have 'soaked' in the home,,, exactly as you would do for a t&g hardwood floor. I used 1/2 inch luan mahogany plywood, two layers, opposing directions, no common joints. You are gonna love it.
Sweet framing. So excited for you man, you deserve the joy. Great meeting you today at BEC, I’m proudly wearing the BUILD hat around town. Look forward to building my dream house with you at Passive House level. Thanks for all your contributions to the built environment.
Are you planning on getting one of those floating sliding door that sits down in place when you drop the handle, and you can open it with one finger? I'm excited to see the construction of your house, where you implement some of these cool innovations. I would have never thought of insulating the slab and putting decking over the top. What does having a house rated as a passive house entail?
Hopefully you will go over it in a future video but I’m wondering about insulation over zip? I read I think from Huber that they don’t recommend putting it tight to the sheathing but to make an air gap, just wondering your thoughts/plan on that detail.
Enjoyed this video very much because you showed us construction ideas at work, your travelling videos not so much. Would like to see more detail on the building! thanks
Matt got all these suppliers to "sponsor" his vlog and now it's the rebuild series! Good job now let's get more detailed walk with the framers electricians and plumbers. Get her done...
Yeah look at all the product placement. But i'm sure he picks out the suppliers that he works with. And it's a nice test to see how things work and hold up in the future. I guess it's win-win.
So I'm in a home build in '66. It is super drafty. In the winter we use about 52% more natural gas than our neighbors for heat. In the summer our AC barely keeps up, its in the attic outside the envelope. What would be the better/cost effective way to seal and insulate? from the outside (removes siding and exterior, and do like the zip system), go from the inside (lots of drywall removal and working around our living spaces), or that air pressure/silicone machine (is that going to leave a mess on everything?)
Matt in the UK we generally use 2 1/2 inch PIR insulation on the slab or beam and block floor. Think a Passive house would need more though. Also I was wondering how you do all the fire stops between the kitchen and garage??? Take care with this very important detail. Also you might need extra insulation for the room above garage. An internal garage is quite a tricky issue regarding fire and an unheated space. Thanks for the awesome video.
Would you use the sealant and sill foam on the bottom plate even if it was not concrete? Typical stem wall foundations you have floor framing and then stud wall on top of that so your bottom plate is on plywood subfloor. Would you do the same method?
Great series for the passive house built! I hope you can give us more details on your HVAC set up and later if you can show us the HERS rating for that passive cert near the final built. I'm planning on building a passive home this year too.
Hey Matt love your videos. Hope you continue to show your house until completion. Your OSB wood what kind are they? Aren't you preoccupied with offgasing? What is your take on it. Keep it up brother.
Looking great. Any reason you didn’t go with zip R? Your two inches of exterior insulation with R12 value could have been achieved with the zip R and saves time and labour.
Any thought on putting closed cell foam between the floor joists? I'm wondering if it would help with noise from people on the 2nd floor or help with creaks or it would just create a new set of problems.
im so glad you're able to build your own home. as a builder, that feeling of being able to make your own choices and incorporate everything you know is so awesome
Thanks for the wall sill gasket (foam and caulk) air seal tip. Will come in handy real soon.
This "remodel" series is a great example of how builders think... and why "remodels" always go over budget... lol
But I still enjoy it!
Honestly, the whole tear down was what Matt should have started with rather than go into it with remodel in mind. The problem is a standard remodel is you never know what you'll find until it's exposed. So a bit of dry rot here, and there, the house is out of square, out of level, out of plumb....that stuff cost a lot of money and time to correct since you're building new with another house in the way. Driving in nails only take a few seconds, pulling nails and studs back out by hand...yeah it'll take more than a few seconds it took to put it up. Building new, especially if you know what you're doing, there's a cap to how much you actually spend to correct all the issues related to infrastructure. So yeah over budget, but at the same time, you'll be so much closer to what you wanted than if you were to try and reuse the old framing. If you want to take the old framing and push it to what you want, there's no real limit to how much that can balloon up to.
@@WallStreetBeggar I would agree BUT it was clear from the outset the true condition of the house. It could have be remodeled but not up to his standard to become his own house. Once it became his future house that was coming down., If it was a remodel to flip it could have been done.
Remodels always go over budget because electricians gotta eat!
@@ColHunterGathers eh the true condition of the house was such that "remodeling" would have yielded a poor quality home that would have barely lasted another decade let alone 20+ years. If you listened to him talk about the
@@ColHunterGathers I quick home inspection would have told the true condition of the house. A quick discussion with a real estate agent would have given him the value of new vs remodel. It would have been an easy decision to tear it down. I could see that just from the design and condition here.
Matt, thanks for showing us your build. Very few builders would show their work as you do. I think they are worried of being critiqued and sued if something was done wrong. For the haters and complainers, I don't see your videos on youtube.
That bottom plate sealing method is a winner. Many thanks to you and Steve.
I just want to say how much I LOVE the excitement you have when talking about and educating all us viewers. Makes watching your videos SO great.
Matt, I am so excited for you and the family. We started building an addition to our home in early November that was supposed to be a little over 500 square feet. The architect designed the exact way I told him. When we started, we soon realize the design wasn't going to work. I then redesigned the project to 1172 square feet. I'm being the general contractor, and I'm having a blast. Like you, I'm so excited doing our addition.
May the LORD bless you greatly as your project comes together. May HE A give you wisdom when you need it as this project continues on. "Walk with the KING and be a blessing!"
I’m so happy for you!!! This is awesome!
After building so many amazing
houses over the years finally you get to build your own! Well deserved my friend!
God bless!
I remembered watching this one when it was first released but had to re looking up. I am starting to plan out little detached workshop and am collecting info for the build. In this case I was mainly looking for the sill detail.
Man I'm happy for you to be building a new home for your family! I can hear how proud you are in your voice. God Bless!
This is some of the best camera work I’ve seen from your channel lately. THANK YOU for showing the details while explaining them.
insulated floors: cool idea but I live in Texas as well and I'm so thankful that I laid marble down directly on the concrete floor because I swear it literally cools the house down if not just my body walking barefoot around the house. Fortunately, my slab was piered before hand so no breaks since then, but in Texas, you WANT cold floors. lol.
If it hasnt been mentioned I'd love to see the build budget and actual costs as you go along . All of these "geeked" out items gotta cost a pretty penny. Thanks
Agreed.
That would be interesting though he most likely has unrealistically low costs. He must have "at cost" deals on all materials and probably some of the labor.
@@Niklaos And he is lacking his own 20 - 30% charge as the GC.
@@Niklaos right but he could get real costs and include them . Right ?
True, but end result would be worth it... personally, I still prefer bricks & mortar.
Oh Matt,
I'm geeking out with you on this series! I can see the excitement on your face.
I used the Tremco acoustical sealant in same way on my home. Steve's details a few years ago drove many of my design details too! 👍
Amazing! Started as a restoration...then, a remodel, then a full gutting, now this!
Must be nice...to have unlimited time and budget
All for the cost of 3 houses!
Thanks for bringing us along on your journey Matt. Its been a lot of fun and I've learned a lot as well. You channel continues to be a great resource for those of us in the trades.
I glad there still builders that stay faithful to the '70 aescethics. Utilitarian in layout with just a hint of dated style.
Thank you Matt for bring into the light about building our home , we going to inbark in this venture, in cathedral city California, I would love to invite you to come see our progress once we start going .
Happy for you to get to be building one for your self. Enjoy it!
Matt, I hope your ok in Texas and the hurricane. Good luck, love your videos
Thank you Matt for sharing all this experienced knowledge and air sealing.
Matt, love your channel! Another You Tuber like yourself, Cole The Cornstar, a farmer like myself, is going to work on an awesome farm house built in 1919. It has the great woodwork, tall ceilings, solid foundation, just a great once in a lifetime project. However I think he really needs someone like you to get great advice.
Congratulations on a very thorough rebuild nice to see it's making you HAPPY !
Man, you have to have an “A team” framing the house with all these details?
I really like the ideas behind the tech you’re using!
Omg Matt, I used to think your sign off was SOOO obnoxious! ...now I LIVE for it!
This is amazing ! The excitement in your tone gives us the anxiety to see the final product. Congrats Matt!
Thanks Matt. Good luck with your Passive House goal! The detail of how to add an overhang to a roof/wall assembly that is blanketed in rigid insulation has me perplexed. Hope you show that detail when you get there.
Looks great Matt! Love what you’re doing. Keep up the good work and God bless.
Finally a preview of a cool house that I may be able to see a finished product of on this channel.
Awesome video! I'm so happy for you that you finally are able to apply your extensive knowledge and passion to your own home. God bless!
Insulation on the slab is a great idea, i did something smaller scale in my kitchen and you can feel difference you can to room next door which is slab but hasn't had the insulation yet so is 2" lower, instant cold when you step on the floor next door.
Looking awesome so far Matt! This is gonna be such a quality home when you're done, you deserve it! Keep on keeping on.
Thanks for sharing the journey of your home, the attention to detail will be on point!
Enjoyed the video Matt. Framing looks great. Surly it will qualify as passive construction. I'm excited to see this come together too. Thanks for taking the time to produce the videos. Y'all take care and God bless.
Loving the enthusiasm to finally do your own house the way you want it.
Hello Matt, I noticed all your interior stud wall sill plates are stressed by the rain water on concrete, theres a new way to keep all the interior sill plates dry always !! check out the Teksill vented sill plate , it raised your stud walls by 3/4 inch and keeps them dry always !!
For your floating floor system on the first floor don't you need a vapor barrier? You're in Texas but I'm in Wisconsin and there's usually moisture coming out from the ground threw the concrete. I've always been told you need a vapor barrier. Why did you choose an inch and a half insulation? Why do you need two layers of OSB on top of the foam ? what would your R-value be from all that?
Awsome! Happy for you and your family! Nice project and house design!
This is so exciting! Very happy for you and your family. Can't wait to see your HVAC solution.
Love this build so much. Awesome to see all the best building practices going into this house
Love the insulated slab detail. I wish I would have known about that a year ago before I built.
Congrats Matt, you earned it!
I really like the series. The double bottom plate detail is nothing new in the commercial framing world. Schools have used that detail for the last 20 years that I know of. Well in California at least. But glad to see someone in the residential world bringing in some of the standard practices from the big boys world
great plan good video. Hope it meets passive house. I like the wood over foam over slab plan.
Congrats Matt, super excited for you and your family!
Awesome details. especially those bottom seals and the floor build. Steve's ideas are GOLD! Cool choice with the LVL 2x4s 16". Not what I would have guessed, but it makes perfect sense as a part of the whole system.
It’s great how you managed to save the garage header.
I’d love to hear him discuss this (and maybe he has) but he may have saved that header and wall because depending on your local zoning and permit laws, what he’s doing here may technically qualify as a remodel if he preserves one wall from original structure, as opposed to new build. (Even though from a practical standpoint it is a new build.)
your excitement is my excitement because you fit the bill! I get to watch :D
Congratulations! Happy you get to build your own dream place! Thanks for making these videos! I will be starting my custom home build next year and I will be documenting it! Learned lots from you!
Matt, Will you be adding a vapor barrier on top if the floor insulation and under the double sub floor assembly?
EPS doesn't need one. If needed you can tape the seams.
@@Zamicol You may be thinking of XPS (Type 4 or 'rigid' insulation) or foil-faced polyiso. 2" of EPS has a perm rating of 1 to 1.25 so isn't a great vapor barrier. Matt may need one based on his local conditions to deal with the anticipated vapor drive, but it may/may not be necessary.
Do the passive house! Would love to see that!
Why are you putting polyiso on the OUTSIDE of the ZIP rather than just going with ZIP-R12?
This needs an answer!
Because this entire build is bad decisions
Probably due to sponsors / discounts, couldn't get it on the Zip insulated system?
Because he's doing the Perfectwall system he did on a previous video. Insulation on the outside of the airbarrier is way more effective.
@@Silky777 Great answer. Especially considering the climate zone.
Really cool. This house it is going to be awesome. Good luck. And plz give me more vids.
Good for you man.
I can feel your joy.
If you get a chance, could you mention why you went with exterior insulation over Zip-R?
This allows you to have your air barrier and weather barrier inside the thermal envelope. Since it isn't subject to temperature extremes it helps with the longevity of the assembly. This is in line with Joe Lstiburek's "Perfect Wall" design.
Joel with Zip R, the air barrier and WRB are on the outside of the insulation. The assembly Matt is going to do here puts the insulation on the outside of the air barrier and WRB.
Cool, and love the insulated slab floor detail, but I have a question. You doubled the floor plate (total 3 inches yes ?) but your insulation and subfloor is coming up 3 inches. Where's the bottom nail/screw for the interior drywall attach and what's to keep the edge from going into the wall cavity ?
Call CRsolar in Texas if your looking for solar over 12 years installing.... Matt like tons of your ideas.. wonder will that plywood LBL studs warp if they are wet to many days during building - of course I suppose most people are using laminate beams and must be ok??
How is this budget build going ?
What have I missed .
About 600,000 worth and climbing !!
Over a mil
Can't sell it anymore because he went way over budget, so he decided to make it his own house. Now he's using his sponsor and youtube money to pay for his own house. Genius.
It's going great, you only missed a couple small updates. This house will be better than new in a hurry. On a budget. The endless budget.
Matt, Are you going to do Zip 2.0? Or maybe tape the seams and flash the nail holes... Zip 1.5 maybe?
Getting fresh air into such a tight house seems challenging. What hvac setup do you use/recommend?
What's the ageing numbers on that air seal plastics? When do you expect these to be redundant? 10 years? 25?
Would there be other materials, natural such, doing the same job but better for the environment and longer lasting?
Nice,. I want those LVL framing beams .probably gotta order it ..not at big box stores
You have the quad or quint 2X4 pack supporting the triple LVL points,, particularly the center of building where the custon saddle and three LVLs in each direction,,, What is the post sitting on? This is a remodel, rebuild, Is there a proper sized pad footing below the slab? Is the house slab structural,, (road screen, well laid out rerod,,)? Is the house slab floated on 3 inches of closed cell foam? I see the load coming down,,, but where is it going after it reaches the concrete?
I may not have mentioned it but we removed the slab for a spread footer (pier) at those locations
@@buildshow Perfect ! That was a lot of load coming down in one spot. I have seen columns, wooden columns on remodels that have punched through concrete. Something in me would never expect a wooden column (soft) to punch through concrete (hard),, but, oh yeah, it does. I like your floating floor. I have done it once as well. Word from me,, space your sheets,,, and more than you would normally. Moisture imbalance,, small and chronic because of temp gradients or moisture, or an event (kitchen flood) If the individual sheets cannot expand enough,, the total will try to curl away from the moisture. Moisture gradient from below,, the room edhes may try to rise. Event? the floor will dome in the center. Spacing solves that. Install only after the roof is secure and water tight,, and the materials have 'soaked' in the home,,, exactly as you would do for a t&g hardwood floor. I used 1/2 inch luan mahogany plywood, two layers, opposing directions, no common joints. You are gonna love it.
Sweet framing. So excited for you man, you deserve the joy. Great meeting you today at BEC, I’m proudly wearing the BUILD hat around town. Look forward to building my dream house with you at Passive House level. Thanks for all your contributions to the built environment.
A passive house is such a good idea Matt!!! DO IT :D
Are you planning on getting one of those floating sliding door that sits down in place when you drop the handle, and you can open it with one finger? I'm excited to see the construction of your house, where you implement some of these cool innovations. I would have never thought of insulating the slab and putting decking over the top. What does having a house rated as a passive house entail?
Hopefully you'll continue to update us with the progress of your home.
This was a fun video & educating as well. I dig the insulated floor detail!
Hopefully you will go over it in a future video but I’m wondering about insulation over zip? I read I think from Huber that they don’t recommend putting it tight to the sheathing but to make an air gap, just wondering your thoughts/plan on that detail.
Are you adding a water barrier on top of floor foam? Just wondering? Thanks house is looking good 👍
Love your videos. Exciting to see what a pro would do with their own house
House is looking good! 👍🏿 GO PASSIVE! 😁
Enjoyed this video very much because you showed us construction ideas at work, your travelling videos not so much. Would like to see more detail on the building! thanks
You should definitely go for passive! We are in Irving, so (selfishly) it would be really applicable!
Love to hear the details of building and the products, amazing.
What I’ve learned from watching videos on this channel is this guy loves framing
Matt got all these suppliers to "sponsor" his vlog and now it's the rebuild series! Good job now let's get more detailed walk with the framers electricians and plumbers. Get her done...
Yeah look at all the product placement. But i'm sure he picks out the suppliers that he works with. And it's a nice test to see how things work and hold up in the future. I guess it's win-win.
You should install Pex-AL-Pex insulated Pex tubing for plumbing with coil sleeves for easy line replacement!
So I'm in a home build in '66. It is super drafty. In the winter we use about 52% more natural gas than our neighbors for heat. In the summer our AC barely keeps up, its in the attic outside the envelope. What would be the better/cost effective way to seal and insulate? from the outside (removes siding and exterior, and do like the zip system), go from the inside (lots of drywall removal and working around our living spaces), or that air pressure/silicone machine (is that going to leave a mess on everything?)
This old new house. Great job Matt. I used to tell my crew, and forgot until reminded recently;."Perfect is good enough".
I'm building my personal house to 80 percent of perfect. As an architect I follow says : the last 5 percent to perfect is very expensive
Perfect is the enemy of good.
@@anonymousbyproxy8250 When you are working on an $18 million dollar house in the low desert perfect is good enough.
You are living my dream! I’ve always wanted to build a house like this!!
@Matt Risinger Why dont you use bitumenous paper for waterproofing underneath the bottom beams?
Matt in the UK we generally use 2 1/2 inch PIR insulation on the slab or beam and block floor. Think a Passive house would need more though. Also I was wondering how you do all the fire stops between the kitchen and garage??? Take care with this very important detail. Also you might need extra insulation for the room above garage. An internal garage is quite a tricky issue regarding fire and an unheated space. Thanks for the awesome video.
Danny Murphy . Here we use fire-rated drywall (has more fiberglass and fire retardants in it, it is thicker, heavier and more expensive).
Happy for you.
Bummed you didn't go ICF.
Would you use the sealant and sill foam on the bottom plate even if it was not concrete? Typical stem wall foundations you have floor framing and then stud wall on top of that so your bottom plate is on plywood subfloor. Would you do the same method?
Living in the south where it's hot, I'm surprised you want to insulate the floor slab. Wouldn't it help cool your house in the Summer?
Great series for the passive house built! I hope you can give us more details on your HVAC set up and later if you can show us the HERS rating for that passive cert near the final built. I'm planning on building a passive home this year too.
Passive! Now you've really got me Matt ;)
Hey Matt love your videos.
Hope you continue to show your house until completion.
Your OSB wood what kind are they? Aren't you preoccupied with offgasing? What is your take on it.
Keep it up brother.
Looking great. Any reason you didn’t go with zip R? Your two inches of exterior insulation with R12 value could have been achieved with the zip R and saves time and labour.
Any thought on putting closed cell foam between the floor joists? I'm wondering if it would help with noise from people on the 2nd floor or help with creaks or it would just create a new set of problems.
not sure what prices are like there but based on what I can find for sale online LVL 2x4's are about 3 times the cost of a regular 2x4
On the Z sill flashing- does it matter which side faces outward? I assume the downslope should be outside but not sure if it matters in particular
I love the progression of this series:
1. Buy an old house to renovate
2. Decide to move the stairwell
3. Bowl the house and build a new one
bowl half the house. then the other half 😂
Bowling 🤣
Can you show the detail on how you cut the rafters for the 2nd floor roof and attached them to the header?
did you repour the concrete? How did you bring the plumbing and electrical if you use old ones?
I was wondering why you didn't choose ICF or solid pour concrete in your locale?
Great looking build and info Mstt. One question, why not use Warmboard-S on top of the floor insulation so you could do radiant floor heating?
Matt - What about steel framing compared to traditional wood or timbre framing? What do you know about pros and cons? Can you use Zips with steel? jmn
I spy with my little eye all thread cinching your built up posts together. I like it.