After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans th-cam.com/users/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
Matt, 90% of home issues I have to look at in my area are either about improper deck design (especially attachment to the house), improper notching/drilling of floor joists, or improper anchorage of guardrails. I think having your engineer spend an episode each on these topics would save a lot of contractors money down the road.
And i was thinking i might learn something on Common Mistakes buillders could make, instead all I hear for 13 minutes is that engineered lumber is more stable then normal lumber, well that was a waste of 13 minutes
Hearing him upsell "engineered wood that doesn't bow or squeak" was annoying. Most if not all subflooring will be delivered warped, placed on sub-optimal support and rained on before the shingles and windows are installed. I see this all the time especially in new homes by production or "custom" builders.
Scrape a lot clean. Saturate with water for dust control. Pour slab. Dump all building material on mud. Build duck walk path the fifty feet to the house from materisls pile over mud Shortstaff the crew so there is only one person to transport extra long sheathing to building. Frame walls and sheath in oriented strand board, Leave open over rainy season. Roof at start of dry season. Pressure wash exterior walls before painting. Finish inside. Wonder why building is moldering in two months. Bring in driers, watch everything distort. Be grateful for wildfire which incinerates whole town.
One drawback to the wood house I can't get over is the flamability factor. Old boy Scout chant comes to mind while trying to lit a bone fire "Jedną Zapłkom! Jedną Zapałkom!" "Just one match! Just one match!"
6:27 I remember my uncle installing joist hangers with drywall screws on his deck. I did the old pliers twist test with a Simpson nail and the drywall screw and he ended up pulling the screws and going with nails. The joist hangers from Simpson actually tell you which nail or screw to use and if you elect for a shorter nail or screw it will give you the reduced structural capacity.
Deck screws and drywall screws are intended to "clamp" parts together. They're harder than nails to prevent excessive twist when driving them in with a power driver. This property makes them brittle and not suitable for handling shear loads. Not all screws are the same however. There are screws specifically designed for joist hangers amd these are designed for both clamping and shear load (more ductile material and a thicker cross section). They're much better than nails.
@@OU81TWO I disagree that screws are better than nails. I've used a pneumatic joist hanger nailers and it's so much better and faster than a drill or impact gun. I recently went to a Dewalt 20v hanger nailer an cutting the cord, hose and compressor has been the best ever. Time is money and messing around with a structural screw is no fun when installing hundreds of screws.
@@politics4816 www.brainyquote.com/quotes/scott_adams_126696 That is the source of the original quote. It wasn't meant to be offensive, but rather a light hearted joke. Apologies for any offense.
Matt, I'm a licensed and practicing architect and I absolutely love the in depth content that you provide. I mostly do commercial retail, but do the occasional job on the side for friends. This is real world knowledge that you just can't get without experience. Keep up the good work!
We used up to 28 feet on a building in Palo Alto in '79, they called El Pino Viejo, 2 x 14, 1 foot on center, 4 x 14s bolted to the walls, which were speed block, and we did some pour in place. We nailed the joist hanger nails with a palm nailer, which was like a heavy radio mic, with a tip that ran in and out, a spring loaded collar held the nail, and retracted to drive the nail home, it was pneumatic.
Some 15 years ago we had issues with nail pops in subfloor over LVL (not solid sawn) T&B chord I joists. By happenstance, I ran across a report on nail types for various lumbers. We had been using ring-shanks for our subflooring since whenever, but turns out this is WRONG for engineered lumber. The glues in the engineered materials make the fibers more rigid and brittle, and the annular rings on the ring-shanks nails act like a broach does in metal. They punch a hole in the engineered wood, so that the fibers do not close around the rings, and cannot therefore provide resistance to withdrawal. A smooth shank will push aside the wood fibers, without cutting them, and the glues and the (typical) coating on the nail shank will develop the needed withdrawal resistance. In solid sawn, the ring shank pushes aside the unreinforced (by glues) fibers, which then relax back into the grooves, providing the greater withdrawal resistance. We have also found that 1 1/2" hanger nails into solid sawn generally loosen during drying (really noticeable on hurricane ties). This is significant enough that the rule is 2 1/2" hanger nails if at all possible, whatever the spec. We also like structural screws a lot; they don't become loose, but the labor is a bit intense. We are often able to get away from hurricane ties by using solid rollover blocking flush to exterior on the top plate, between rafter tails, and using tall sheathing to tie the wall studs to that blocking, which is then nailed solidly to the rafters. Just need a responsive engineer, and careful management of the framers. Oh, we don't do vented attics, and do seal the wall sheathing to roof sheathing, as part of the continuous exterior insulation system, as per these videos. Why not spec a Parallam post and save the bolt-up labor?
@@nomen_meus This was long ago, and I did not download the document. I did review and discuss with my (superb) structural engineer, who was as surprised as I was. I went out on my current job, and found that the ring-shanks that had popped (renovation in a very old house, where we had to be tying in to stuff that was a bit below modern standards) could sometimes be pulled out by finger power only (!!). It was eye-opening, to say the least. The only thing that had saved my jobs (I surmise) was the rigorous use of subfloor adhesive. The bit about relative shrinkage between solid sawn (always) and engineered wood (basically none) in the video is an important concept to be aware of, as it can can cause distress much later (with little recourse). The LVL in our case was because the 100+ year old solid sawn was dried down to a final dimension, and we wanted the new to NOT shrink after we installed it. Match now/ match later.
@@leestevens446 yes I use LVL scraps from work in my 70 year old home reno. It's almost always straight so I can just focus on correcting the old timber, and the low risk of shrinkage means one less thing to worry about. An interesting thing I've found out about LVL is that if it gets wet it will swell, but will retain some of that expansion once completely dried out. So I try to avoid that...
I found it strange that he didn't mention structural screws at all. If you want a squeak-free floor all you need is construction adhesive, normal OSB/plywood, and structural screws. They won't break, won't back out, and the glue keeps the OSB from rubbing against the joists in the spots between screws.
Again, Thank You! for pointing out what products are best. As I'm learning, what IS and what isn't good.. I will KNOW when speaking to tradesmen if they're telling me the truth or not. I come to understand, what I'm not able to fix myself. I figure if I'm better educated, I will stand a better chance of not being taken advantage of when hiring someone to do the repairs needed. So with that said, again. Thank You for taking your time to walk through this video is a detailed way, even I could understand. (I took notes. lol) There's at least one person in the comment section, that seemed a bit negative.. Ignore him/them. It would seem he neglected to eat his prunes. (eye roll with a Tiff) You're here for me, not him. I benefited from this, as I'm sure others have as well. Have a great night! Jenn
I'm here because since I graduated from architect university I mostly work with concrete and brick. Next month we have a project mostly builted using wood. Thank you, this is a very informative video.
Engineered Lumber has so many advantages over traditional Lumber but for three (#1 it's more susceptible to mold, #2 acts as an accelerant in house fires & #3 cost ). That being said, I still wish I would have used engineered floor joist in my house when I built it 12 years ago. Exterior walls using 2×6 traditional Lumber, no problems ( I would do that again in a heartbeat plus my wife likes the larger window sills for knick knacks and Christmas decorations). Interior traditional 2x4 Lumber walls, quite a few got sent back to the lumber yard, but in the end the carpenters did a good job catching those warp boards and throwing them aside.
As a volunteer firefighter I have to ask, is there going to be fire protection applied to those OSB web beams? Will you be using a Type-X drywall on the ceilings? How about a residential fire sprinkler system? An expensive house, with priceless occupants is worth protecting.
7:32 I still feel uneasy about the column, especially when I see that the grouped studs are resting on a horizontal piece, with the 'grain' going the wrong direction. I think a steel column would provide an extra measure of safety and longevity.
You need to use steal beams in that situation, I agree 100%. Rolling the dice is never cool when people are living in that house. Depending on the area, you can get extreme weather, and I have seen some serious failures with the family in the home.
There's nothing wrong with that column resting on that sill plate. That appears to be a Boise Cascade VERSA-STUD for the sill plate which has a max allowable stress perpendicular to the grain of 450 psi. for a bearing surface of 3.5"x7.5" that gives a max of 11,800 lbs. I'm assuming they went with the 5 ply column because they couldn't source the equivalent sized VERSA-LAM column locally or something but Boise Cascade lists the max load for an equivalent monolithic column as 11,025 lbs. The sill plate is rated for the same magnitude of load as the column resting on it. www.bc.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/versa-stud_2650_1_7_wall_guide_east.pdf As for the notion that the bolt hole is weakening the column, that's already accounted for. The engineered max loads allow for up to a 3/4" hole to be drilled through the middle 1/3rd of the stud. Is it weaker? Yes. Does it matter? No, the max allowable loads already take that into account regardless of whether or not the hole is there. Even as far as extreme weather is concerned, this is an interior column and not part of a shear wall, it's not going to see a substantial increase in load even if a category 5 hurricane hits the house, that would mostly increase load on other portions of the framing. Structurally this is completely fine and putting a steel column there instead would make it a headache to try and hide behind drywall.
How do you address electrical and low voltage wiring on these homes? Do you for example require your AV contractor to do BIM drawings so as the verify that no structure is compromised as they drill and install wire and other misc materials?
Hi fun video, since im a i-beam constructor from Norway. You covered the most important "issues" with i-beam, witch is "shear force", I always put details on my drawings on how to do it right (since its commonly overlooked). I do have one question about that coloumn with all that load, it sits on a timber sill, also its on the end at the sill? Usually all coloums with extensive load has to have direct contact with foundation, since "sills - not sure what u call them" have wood fibers horisontal. And structurally wood is weak with fibers horisontal, is this different with engineered wood? Regards (sorry for bad english).
I'm curious about that too, perhaps IT IS different with engineered lumber. From my experience, it is very hard to compress plywood, which is basically what an LVL is with different dimensions. I definitely would not do it with traditional lumber though.
The LVL has a higher perpendicular to grain value than the typical SPF or SYP lumber used. You are spot on with standard lumber crushing perp to grain.
If I worried about post tension cables. I might try to access the ends, and hook a radio signal to it, like underground detection with USA, Underground Service Alert, companies hook a radio signal to the conductor, it acts like an antenna, and they have a sensor that they pass over the ground until they find the conductor.
Hey Matt! Love this video so much. Its honestly awesome from a young guy understanding the perspective been engineer/ builder and why each role is so crucial an important. I've been deciding between the engineering and CM route and love how they work together.
I wonder why your engineer, regarding structural hangers, didn't mention the shear strength of nails vs screws. And also the pull strength. There is a big difference...as I remember learning. Correct? It's an honest question. Thank you kindly
Because the engineer is a tricky dicky. You are correct typically. Nails and screws exists across a spectrum of different strengths and weaknesses but the fastener is not always selected based upon its inherent qualities. Nails and screws have a sheer rating and the medium they are installed into cannot change this as it is a character of the fastener. Resistance to being unfastened is a team effort, part on the fastener and part on the fastening medium. Composite materials typically do not offer the same resistance to unfastening so there is really no benefit to using screws and screws typically damage the composite during installation anyway.
Question 1: Are you going to eventually spray the floor i-joists with some sort of a fire retardant paint?. Question 2: Should upstairs bathrooms and utility rooms have some sort of central floor drain, for those just in case(oops) washer/toilet overflows so your first floor ceiling drywall does not get ruined. Question 3: Are going to use rock wool for certain inside walls for sound isolation?.
@@joelfedor4984 I know in a lot of laundry rooms there is an overflow under the washer with a pan. I would think a good water detection system with automatic shut off valve is in order here.
@8:35: Saddle fasteners are proud, where column fasteners are reccessed. This detail seems odd to me. Just wondering, how this was finished? Was the column built out with a furring strip, or was the finish drywall facing interrupted, or was the material from the back of the drywall removed to accommodate the fasteners and saddle?
How does engineered lumber hold up in a fire, vs traditional lumber? The reason I'm asking is because our local fire department is now refusing to enter houses with engineered trusses. They're stating that in a fire, the glue gives way, allowing the floor to drop quicker than a solid piece of wood, like a 2"x8" or 2"x10".
This is accurate. I work for a forensic engineering firm and we have done controlled burns on traditional sawn lumber vs I-joists. The I-joist burned much faster and completely disintegrated well before the solid lumber. It was concerning to say the least.
Where is this fantasy land where builders are concerned about building in other than the cheapest and fastest manner and an engineer is available to come inspect the work?
It’s the builders house? Also, most people rely on inspectors to do this type of work. Some knows, some don’t. But you always have an option to hire an engineer to come out and inspect the work. Money talks.
If the buyers are willing to pay most builders would be happy to use the best quality materials, the problem is that everyone wants champaign at beer pricing.
In California depending on the engineering firm used it has become common practice for the engineer to come out and sign off on the job. Builders are just like anyone else, some are good others aren't. All of the custom homes that I have worked on have always been top quality. I don't do production work anymore but you always go by what the plans say. There is a real shortage of qualified help in the trades these days and I'm afraid once the people like myself retire there won't be anyone left to build the things that need to be built. Kids these days don't want to work so there is no new blood.
I think this is your 4th video now where you keep praising engineered lumber without ever once bringing up the drawbacks, except cost (barely). Engineered lumber uses a lot of glue that off-gasses and also isn't responsible fiber use when it isn't needed. It's much more processed and typically has higher embodied carbon. Unlike OSB, LSL, or the webs of a TJI that are made out of waste (mostly) chips, plywood and LVL are rotary peeled. Logs for rotary peeling are bigger, more mature trees. Framing studs come from small, fast growing trees. If you are concerned about stud quality, insist on KD or S-Dry and you won't have nearly the bow/twist problems of GRN. I'm not a LEED expert, but I don't think your house could be LEED certified with all that glue.
Matt got a deal on his lumber package from BC because they are a sponsor - and that's why he's using engineered lumber everywhere. Matt has never paid much attention to green building - he regularly encases homes in spray foam. This build he will use a bit of Havelock Wool insulation (surely donated and likely another paid promo) which is a welcome new direction.
In residential construction, I think you would be surprised at how easy it is to be LEED certified on a budget like this. There are so many points available with this build and the local sourcing of materials. Where he may fall short in one area he will easily make up in others.
Finish materials such as vinyl flooring and the cheap grades of MDF used in cabinetry off-gas far more than engineered lumber used for framing. I would start by looking first at finishes and cabinetry. In the past urea-formaldehyde glues were the main adhesive in plywood and osb products. But now more and more manufacturers are switching to phenol-formaldehyde and isocyanurate glues. These off-gas during curing. But that process is complete by the time the wood gets to the lumber yard. I'd probably opt for finger-jointed studs over LVL studs if my concern was straight walls. But LVLs are certainly extremely useful for headers, beams and rim joists.
EWP products generally contain 4-6% adhesives. None of the products mentioned are made from “waste” chips. Products like OSB, LSL, and web materials also allow the manufacturer to use non-environmentally stressed species that are not fit for use as conventional lumber. EWP products produce a longer, stronger and straighter product that uses 80-95% of the wood fiber in the log. By comparison, Conventional lumber generally utilizes about 60% of the log for framing lumber. (note - today of the off fall from either product is sold for other products or used to power the plants and doesn’t go to waste. Adhesive products used in today’s EWP products have less off-gassing than the wood used in manufacture. You would be surprised at how Green Engineered lumber is when compared to conventional lumber - better utilization of the wood fiber, no culls, less product used with less bulk, less waste.EWP is environmentally friendly, most are green certified, and build a better product with better products and less waste.
Oh god I can imagine in 30 years a new homeowner coming in and seeing that thin column sticking out and saying “ hmm might just open up this space a bit and trim this wall piece back a foot or so . . .” And by by house.
I seen something you should be doing, that I didn't see done. It good to put a little dab of sub floor adhesive in your joist hangers to prevent squeaks.
@@revitplumber I think he is probably trying to sound knowledgeable or made a mistake. Maybe he is referring to a suspended slab with long spans..., maybe a basement room under a driveway? About the only way I can see the need for post tensioned residential slab....
the application of what i am assuming was a warp stabilizer (video thing) at 8:28 looks so smooth. Almost as smooth as the house. Thanks for sharing the info. Never heard someone claim deck screws were brittle. Maybe ill just go full stainless from here on out :)
Typically screws in general are very brittle especially in shear strength (obviously some are designed to be strong in shear but not typically) even stainless screws unless rated and designed for shear loading are not ideal. Don't get me wrong screws are great in "tension" or "compression", if you will, but as soon as you apply an axial load they tend to snap! Stay safe !
any metal that is hard, screws, is also less ductile, brittle. it's a side effect of hardening. that's why drywall screws have the head break off so often. try bending a screw over in a vice with a hammer, then try a nail. most often, the screw will break long before it bends, the nail will bend repeatedly before it breaks.
Exactly. I live in an area where homes were built in the 20"s with minimal lumber and huge snowloads. Hardly any type of foundation etc. They are still standing although most have been torn down and rebuilt with the massive greedfest housing boom.
100+ yo old houses were built with old growth trees. much stronger than any second or third growth trees available now. fir and pine were basically hardwoods back then, being already many hundreds of years old when the great clearcuts began
I wish Matt was in Australia and could take a look at my insane, old roof structure made with hardwoods, treated pine, and who knows what else, sloppily connected and all covered in old Colorbond steel panels. It creaks and pops in loud cascading waves across the length of the house but it has stood up to some serious winds that scream over the hill like a tsunami.
Excellent video Matt. As a builder in Ca. I appreciate your videos and your engineers perseverance in creating superior building practices. Look forward to your future video’s.
Such a good allocation of resources spending on the permanent part of the house. I see too many clients willing to have poor quality structure and mechanicals so they can spend more of decorating and furniture.
Well, any builder worth a damn knows it's what behind the walls and below the floor that matters. However, homeowners don't have a clue and with the lack of information about various builders and the quality of homes they build, they can only evaluate on what they see. What needs to happen is to start rating homes on quality as well as aesthetics, amenities and location. And that requires banksters to start demanding appraisers giving premiums for build quality/efficiency. What sucks is we have legions of shows/reviewers posting about every new cars and electronics, but nobody talking about the quality of various builders. It's disgraceful considering homes are typically the biggest investment people make. Instead we rely on incompetent 'appraisers' who barely know their elbow from you-know-what.
We definitely need a rating system that is well marketed so that the common buyer has a standardize reference. If higher quality doesnt get a return for the money, only customs will use that method.
Ya think ?! LOL - great if obvious observation...i just dotn understand why anyone building their own house doesnt do it right. Sure if you are buying a spec house, who cares if it meets code-just be sure to flip it in 20 or so years. A house is not like a woman’s dress or shoes to be discarded after a few years,
nope as builders we should'nt do any extra then what the plans call for and if you want to make structural improvements (useless) you need to go thru the city the inspectors wont appreciate and it will look very amateur if you try to improve the structural on your own this lumber is not better quality it just has bigger load and span and its good in certain applications. all houses built today are designed way stronger then houses 20 or 30 years ago and yes its better to spend your money on stuff that you actually going to see and improve the value the house
Matt, I'm just a DIY guy. I have done a couple of remodels on different houses. I really enjoy your videos. I've always said I would never buy a new house from a builder. Most of the stuff I see is just garbage. Granted most of them are the DR Hortens of the world. Watching you makes me realize that there are actually nice new homes being built. 1st, how do you go about finding a quality builder? 2nd, can you give me a ballpark on the difference in price around something like you put together vs the track housing builders of the world. I imagine there are a lot of things that increase the price. Better materials. Better contractors, etc. I get that it all adds up, but to how much more?
EDITOR: You audio compression / noise reduction is cutting out the top and low end of their voices (prime example @11:50). It's pretty distracting; sounds like you're listening through a cup on a door. Otherwise, good edits.
love the attention to detail! I believe in one of your past videos you might have mentioned the cost increase for going the LVL route, but that would be a good detail to mention. AND: what is the industry's take on off-gassing of these manufactured products? Will gasses be gone before the sheetrock and the tightening up of the house is completed? There is also the possibility of the toxic hazards during the manufacturing process. I would imagine the big wood product guys make sure the workers are protected, but that's not always the case (see PVC manufacturing procedures). Thanks, once again, for a great video.
Hi Tim. My understanding is that whatever out-gassing is going to happen due to the glues will happen during the glue curing process at the factory. I don't know what worker protections are required in the factories but hopefully something is in place. I don't believe there is any out-gassing issue once the materials are on a jobsite. Indoor air quality will probably be far more affected by simply cooking with a natural gas range rather than due to out-gassing from the lumber. I believe the major manufacturers have moved away from the urea-formaldehyde glues, which out-gas longer than the phenol-formaldehyde and isocyanurate glues. If I was working with a client who was especially sensitive (I have in the past) I would pay more attention to the sheet goods than the framing lumber. Avoid OSB. Use plywood that has a non-formaldehyde based glue. Columbia Forest Products' "PureBond" is one to look into. More importantly, pay attention to the material used in cabinetry. Most stock kitchen cabinetry uses the cheapest and highest off-gassing MDF and melamine glues. Cabinetry and floor finishes such as vinyl are a far bigger concern for indoor air quality.
@@HistoricHomePlans Thanks for the reply. Yes, finishes are (can be) a huge concern regarding air quality. You correctly bring up cooking with gas affecting IAQ. The availability of induction electric cooktops should make gas cooking obsolete. I would challenge any cook or chef to test its effectiveness over gas. Removing gas from all parts of a structure is important, and quite easy to achieve good results with electricity. [sorry for the tangent]
@@timskufca8039 From what I know most chefs already prefer using an electric oven over a gas one because you have finer control over the temperature and the type of cooking. Hopefully induction isn't far behind, but from what I understand it's a bit of a toss up as to what they prefer just because old traditions die hard. I know my next cook top will be induction that's for sure.
@@vincep7014 I've used an induction cooktop for about 15 years (and have a background in commercial cooking). I love its response time!, and cleaning up is EASY! The problems are cost for purchasing and repairs. Gas cooktop is simple plumbing; induction repair is replacement. (I don't have any data as far as maintenance history on induction).
Tim Skufca problem with any indication cooktop is they eventually scratch even if you are meticulous and look like crap-otherwise many advantage however.I also laugh a bit when people is iOS of huge commercial grade gas cooktops and dont have a sophisticated automated vent fan system , yet are obsessed over outgassing from fabric on a chair or LVLS !
These engineered products seem to be the way of the future. It's exciting to think of the longevity, durability, and low-carbon implications of something like this becoming the standard here in North America. With proper moisture control, there's no reason a home like that won't last +500 years
Any advice on which adhesive to use when fixing to the edge of LVL? (sides where you see layers). I haven't found a product that bonds yet, and will absolutely never rely on nails through the edges, only screws and accept that the glue is only there as a 'gasket' to minimise squeaks.
What are levels of out gassing with the adhesive content of these materials? Concerned about impact to clients with allergies and chemical sensitivities.
Impossible to answer generally. Every product i have ever seen (denmark) is marked with what glue is used. OSB haven't contained formaldehyde in years (other than natural content in the wood). Some people are very sensitive, but they can be sensitive to the out gassing of natural lumber
@@Atramentum1 natural wood does not outgas. Natural wood that has been inundated with chemicals at the sawmill before processing does outgas. It is too bad they do that. It seems more and more people are reacting to these chemicals.
I wonder how the engineered studs last if you happen to have a flood? Locally some places built 80 years ago are seeing a flood, never before seen due to a 20 mile long ice jam. Or even the happenstance of a check valve on a sump pump failing and town water backing into the basement. 🤔
if LVL gets saturated it will expand, and then shrink again, but not back to its original size. I picked up one 45mm thick offcut I'd left in the rain, it was about 49, then once dry 46. The width expanded then shrank back to original. I think it gains thickness because the glue laminates change. I'd say the overall distortion would be what you'd experience from (dry) sawn lumber though.
I love your videos Matt......I think your one of the best. Engineered joist perform so much better than dimensional lumber, their only disadvantage is in a fire they do burn through quicker leading to floor collapse sooner. It looks like your using 1 1/8" structural rim board and along with that you need crush blocks for load bearing walls. They are installed here where needed so this will pass but I thought you would explain to everyone why they are there. Last thing......a bit of pl400 glue in the saddle of each hanger before you set the joist in gives even more resistance to squeaks. I'm glad you mentioned why you don't use screws as a structural fastener .....in those hangers for instance. I used to be a contributing contractor on the Holmes on Homes forums and Mike Holmes always used screws for framing and I started quite the argument with his forum moderators about using screws for framing. I kept telling them screws do not meet building code for framing anything structural with wood including exterior walls. They finally stopped recommending screws for wood framing after other contractors backed me up.....and then Mike shut the forums down after I also got into it with them about using cinder blocks for basement foundations. Keep up the good work Matt.
I hope you know that all LVL PSL LSL lamined lumber products have zero water resistance. They can maybe handle getting a little wet once. I've seen those things literally disintegrate from water exposure. I've also been told that it is much harder to nail into engineered wood products compared to solid sawn, I'm wondering as a building what your feeling is on that? At 1:13 / 1:18 why is there a vertical seam in the header with all the joists landing on it, that makes me nervous. The engineered studs make some sense for balloon framed tall walls, usually we're doing 2x6 studs for insulation though. I just did this calc and 2x6 DF#2 studs @ 16" o.c. were able to support a 30ft wide roof with a 10psf horizontal wind load and were at 97% capacity in combined bending and axial factoring in a 2" diameter conduit in the middle of the stud. Not sure what you're talking about with floor trusses at 5:24, they are also made with some trimmable material on the end. At 6:13 what you're saying about screws in hangers in incorrect, but you correct it later, yes all hangers can use the SD structural screws instead of nails and it usually has a higher capacity. And yes the engineer needs to specify the fasteners for the hanger where there are different options with different capacities. Also you need to pay attention to the supporting member, for a 2x deck ledger or any 2x ledger, you usually can only use 1-1/2" nails and the capacity is 60-70% of normal. That's a really cool column at 8:40, I'm surprised you didn't use a PSL / LSL or GLB column though. The labor to bolt all those plys together. I'm not 100% on my built up column specs, it always required so many fasteners though. And I hope you checked the sill for compression perpendicular to grain, it's 625 psi max for DF#2 sill, or you need a steel plate to increase the bearing area. Sheetrock cracking at headers, at least the classic diagonal crack starting at the corner, has nothing to do with wood expansion, that is differential settlement caused by an overloaded or substandard foundation. It can also be shear cracking caused my earthquake or severe wind storms. Cool house though, I like it.
As a residential home framer and licensed architect I don’t like the narrow flange TJI’s, they split when you nail them at the plate. I have also seen TJI’s have significant creep over many years of use, more than dimensional lumber. I prefer web trusses by far, though they can cause issues if something needs to be reworked. They can be designed for different loading situations, made to carry more load, made to have less deflection, can be made to span long distances, can accommodate duct work, electrical and plumbing better.
You gotta keep i joist dry. Paint them so the moisture don't destroy the osb. It will stay same dimension as long as I joist stays dry. Did you use those I joist over your bathroom? Maybe should of painted them.
Would love it if you could dig into the budget implications of various decisions you made with this house. The most relevant critique of engineered lumber everywhere is obviously cost, but we don't have that part of the picture here.
How all this glued structural elements react to water? I am not talking about some moisture in the air, this can be controlled in the house, I am talking about burst pipe, kids plating in the sink, etc.
I forgot to mention that the house had been remodeled so many times the framing members have been cut displaced and adding onto,YetYet they are still standing. I now live in California where you have Over engineered everything, I like new ideas in the building trades but I think we’ve gone a little bat shit crazy.
My thought exactly. With increasing average yearly temps we are also getting a dramatic increase in termites. I love wood but my next house will have a poured concrete slab foundation and exterior walls. All interior walls and the roof will be steel studs and trusses. The roof will be finished with standing seam metal roofing. Wood doors and trim are fine but nothing structural will be made of wood. All electricals will be run in metal conduit.
Steel is an excellent thermal bridge :) Can last 50 years out in the elements. You try to avoid material with different expention rates. Hardwood can last 25 years out in the elements. If wood is left dry for hundreds of years in building it acts like a carbon storage, has less of an impact on the environment compared to steel.
Matt's engineer seems to prefer not to mix steel and wood when possible. There's a case to be made for that as far as constructibility. Also they behave quite differently as far as shrinkage and so forth, which can result in drywall cracks. If he'd used a steel column in that spot there would have been an annoying question of how to finish it. With wood the dry wall can just be screwed to it like a regular stud. Certainly they can be mixed. And there are probably occasions where steel is the best choice. But personally I'd opt for sticking to one material under most conditions. As far as all steel framing, that's clearly an option. But it's a whole different type of carpentry. Matt's got a team that he's worked with for years and they're skilled at what they do, in wood. So why rock the boat?
@@ArthursHD That's correct about carbon. Trees sequester carbon in their wood as they grow. When we use that wood for permanent applications, such as building, we prevent that wood from rotting and returning the carbon to the atmosphere. In environmental terms this is an advantage for wood over steel or masonry materials.
I just finished framing a floor structure for a three season room addition at my house. I went to the Simpson catalog online to spec connectors and fasteners to meet my design loads (I'm a civil engineer). The hangers that arrived from the local lumber yard were for the same lumber size (a 2x8 hanger is a 2x8 hanger, right?). The ones they provided had different load capacities and well as different fastener requirements. This happened with post bases, joist hangers, and 10d Simpson nails where I ordered 3" and they sent the 1-1/2" that they stock. I had a "come to Jesus" meeting with the salesman about asking questions rather than assuming that I had "made a mistake" on the materials list.
6 min 21 s... you have nails in the side of your hanger on the bottom, into the I joint are those holes rated to accept nails, or are they are just pinch points for the I joist?
at 4:20 the rim joist first time I used the wood i beams i called the engineer at the co that made them and asked him about it lol cool nice to see the same question being asked all these years later
A solid envelope with excellent acoustics & sound proofing, good HVAC & plumbing, and enough storage and space to make what I have now look sparse. That's really all I want in a new house. Sure I like the look of mouldings and trim, fancy ceiling treatments, etc... I am even tempted to have enough of a crown moulding to put some led lightstrips up for indirect light. But those things do not really impact the way you live as much as having enough space, clean comfortable air and being able to hear some music without hearing everything from two rooms over does.
I think I saw a skylight hole . What are your thoughts on Skylights. Everyone I ever put has leaked around the glass. They would be great for a desert thou.
Great video, as always. Wondering: if one were to build a rooftop deck, could you use engineered lumber? Obviously wouldn't be able to rip an angle into them... are there options?
Throughout I felt that the photographer and editor thought it was more important for me to see the people gesticulating than for me to get a look at what they were talking about.
I know engendered wood is more stable, but solid wood is what I like to build house from more then osb boards . I would like to know what’s going to happen after 100 years , with these osb houses ,, osb lumber has minimal moisture absorption , water will kill osb has no give .. the house must be 100% seal from water and moisture.. solid wood can take water no problem if there is leak or moisture problems , no house is 100% leak and moister proof .. 1/2” osb vs 1 1/2 “ solid wood joist , I pick solid wood lumber .. all theses engineer lumber products is hold by glue only , that glue fails game over .. solid wood has no glue
I’m not a building scientist by any means. But I would be shocked about hearing of a glue failure. And now with the spray foaming and sheathing with the wrap attached I think these houses will last the test of time. I’m just a remodeler, but I love the advantec subflooring. Water just beads up on it. I’ve left scraps out in the elements an no mold growth and board doesn’t turn to mush like OSB. If engineered studs weren’t so expensive I’d switch to them.
Some of the more modern glues used in these materials are pretty moisture resistant, but remember it is just gluing tiny bits of wood together. The glue passes the stresses to the little bits of wood, and concentrates the stresses in ways you do not see with tree lumber. Glue fails or little wood chips fail when damp due to stress concentration - either way your building falls apart if it gets wet. Personally I like the look of steel stud systems (as long as they are installed properly and designed with proper safety factors), but have never built with them or examined how well they hold up over 50 years or so.
Advantech is incredible. A scrap of Advantech can lay in the dirt for the whole build and never swell. I once had the displeasure of working on a house where the developer was having major cash flow issues, and we had to leave a house with only an Advantech subfloor. It was totally open to the elements for months and months. When the developer finally had us come back, the Advantech was dark gray. It looked terrible. But it was as flat and solid as the day it was installed.
@@wmichaelbooth Any structure sheathed with standard plywood would need to be completely stripped before you could continue because the plywood would have lost all it's structural capacity. People have a tendency to poo poo engineered lumber but they usually have little to no real basis for it. Like you say, I've seen LVL's sit submerged in water all winter long with no water penetration what so ever. Pull it out of the puddle and wipe it off and it's as good as new. Another major plus to using these engineered products is no termites.
If water is penetrated your sob wall sheathing you either didn't install house wrap or you need to fire your siding company .water shouldn't be penetrating threw the siding .
If my view is not mistaken, should that 5 ply Versa-lam column not be run through to the concrete floor rather than sitting on the bottom plate of the wall it is in? You talked about crushing for the BCI joists but same scenario there also under a point load. And it probably should have a column base.
Love the channel and Matt but im looking for the section where there are rookie mistakes? I am a novice guy looking to build in the next 24 months so I would appreciate the "don't do these things" section. Was I not paying attention well enough?
Matt, one thing you guys should cover is the growing, and somehow still unknown, requirement for shear walls; where these are required, their purpose, common framing mistakes and how to resolve them. It's been an interesting topic since the designers (architects and engineers) have different thoughts about how to satisfy this, not to mention how farmers think it should be done.
Multi camera shoot with a new style of post-processing editing. New video techniques used. Great job in post with the bRoll and the graphics! There is an issue with the two mics. They are not balanced to one another.
Another thing I've noticed is that the mics are set to auto-gain. You can tell because switching from one person speaking to another, the first few words they say are super low. I'm wondering if they switched audio people (or editors) for this particular episode. The audio all sounds very muddy.
Also Matt's feed has a low level hiss that made me think my computer fans kicked in to high gear until I paused the video. I'm using speakers so it must be driving people on headphones even more crazy.
Lvl are great we just used thereb for some 30' rafters the plans called for joining 20' and 16' 2x 12s . We took one look at the lumber that was sent out to us and decided no way.
Great video Matt. So glad you continue to bring design professionals into your more recent videos. So many times do I hear contractors and homeowners considering design documents as an added expense and do not understand the value in having a good set of documents (instructions). As an Architect, I often try to relate what we design professionals bring to the table in lament terms the best I can. For those who bake, would you ever try to bake bread not following a recipe? Those who are fitness fanatics, would you ever not plan your meals, and expect to get fit? And so on. I try to give my potential clients not a sales pitch, but instead, find ways to show them there is tremendous value in design documents and building a design team. Whit clearly shows that here...Thanks for continuing to show the complexity of our industry and how it takes the right professionals to accomplish something great. Thanks, Matt @ BOTTEGA+
Yes, 'engineered material' sounds SO much better than particle board, but IMO it is still the same worthless crap, only now frequently sold for higher prices than real wood. The big problem with this stuff is that the design numbers look good when the material is new, but let it see the slightest water exposure and it quickly turns back into what it was originally - sawdust and wood chips. Currently involved with remodelling an old building which had a bad roof. Different sections of the roof deck were made out of 1x lumber, CDX plywood, or 'engineered material'. Every piece of particle board on the deck was falling apart. Most of the plywood showed at least the start of delamination and was also removed. At least 90% of the roof deck made from dimension lumber was essentially undamaged here in dry NM and was left in place. All that particle board in high stress locations in the house in this video makes me shudder. Hope this guy never gets a roof leak or plumbing leak that goes undetected for any length of time ... Part of the trouble with engineers - they frequently believe and rely on the manufacturer's data on these miracle materials, without using appropriate safety factors and without considering long term effects of the environment on the design numbers. You want an old guy for an engineer - one who has made a few mistakes and seen or lived with the consequences.
Engineered lumber is definitely not particle board. In most cases the engineered products out perform dimensional lumber in every way but cost. They are stronger, more stable, are more resistant to weather, insects and rot. Houses built with these products are also more likely to still be standing after large earthquakes which is always a plus. It isn't necessary to go as far as this guy has gone but it certainly won't hurt. So, no I disagree with your assumptions.
As a Structural engineer myself he did a great job explainin things in a simple form instead of using jargon
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans th-cam.com/users/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
Engineer guy was good communicator, get him on again
Matt,
90% of home issues I have to look at in my area are either about improper deck design (especially attachment to the house), improper notching/drilling of floor joists, or improper anchorage of guardrails. I think having your engineer spend an episode each on these topics would save a lot of contractors money down the road.
And i was thinking i might learn something on Common Mistakes buillders could make, instead all I hear for 13 minutes is that engineered lumber is more stable then normal lumber, well that was a waste of 13 minutes
Hearing him upsell "engineered wood that doesn't bow or squeak" was annoying.
Most if not all subflooring will be delivered warped, placed on sub-optimal support and rained on before the shingles and windows are installed.
I see this all the time especially in new homes by production or "custom" builders.
@@h3llblaz3r12
I used the advantec flooring on my addition. Got rained on.. didn't hurt it.
But yes. I agree.
@@turboflush Yes advantech is designed to not absorb as much but it can and will if left long enough.
Matt is all about how can I make a $300K house cost a million and still mess up along the way while convincing the masses he is god
Scrape a lot clean. Saturate with water for dust control. Pour slab. Dump all building material on mud. Build duck walk path the fifty feet to the house from materisls pile over mud
Shortstaff the crew so there is only one person to transport extra long sheathing to building.
Frame walls and sheath in oriented strand board, Leave open over rainy season. Roof at start of dry season. Pressure wash exterior walls before painting.
Finish inside. Wonder why building is moldering in two months. Bring in driers, watch everything distort.
Be grateful for wildfire which incinerates whole town.
I was hoping to see mistakes that people make, not how awesome this builder does it
What happened at 2:34 looks like someone miss read the plans and framed a window in the wrong place?
Robert Reilly it’s looks like they wanted to put a door there.
If that was framed for a door why is there 2 sill plates? You would just put full length studs to fill in.
I don’t know,
@@tomatexelon might be a change order also. Been there many times with homeowners. After it's in doesn't look right.
One drawback to the wood house I can't get over is the flamability factor.
Old boy Scout chant comes to mind while trying to lit a bone fire "Jedną Zapłkom! Jedną Zapałkom!"
"Just one match! Just one match!"
6:27 I remember my uncle installing joist hangers with drywall screws on his deck. I did the old pliers twist test with a Simpson nail and the drywall screw and he ended up pulling the screws and going with nails. The joist hangers from Simpson actually tell you which nail or screw to use and if you elect for a shorter nail or screw it will give you the reduced structural capacity.
Deck screws and drywall screws are intended to "clamp" parts together. They're harder than nails to prevent excessive twist when driving them in with a power driver. This property makes them brittle and not suitable for handling shear loads. Not all screws are the same however. There are screws specifically designed for joist hangers amd these are designed for both clamping and shear load (more ductile material and a thicker cross section). They're much better than nails.
@@OU81TWO I disagree that screws are better than nails. I've used a pneumatic joist hanger nailers and it's so much better and faster than a drill or impact gun. I recently went to a Dewalt 20v hanger nailer an cutting the cord, hose and compressor has been the best ever. Time is money and messing around with a structural screw is no fun when installing hundreds of screws.
"Engineers like to solve problems. If there are no problems handily available, they will create their own problems."
That’s called a mechanic. Edit statement. -An engineer who just solved your problem
Yeah, I've added lighting to so many places that didn't need it in my home during this quarantine haha
The problems are what make the work interesting. As an Engineer and volunteer builder I don't intentionally create problems, but I do look for them.
@@politics4816 www.brainyquote.com/quotes/scott_adams_126696 That is the source of the original quote. It wasn't meant to be offensive, but rather a light hearted joke. Apologies for any offense.
@@draconis112 no need to apologize. i'm an engineer and i think it's hilarious.
Matt, I'm a licensed and practicing architect and I absolutely love the in depth content that you provide. I mostly do commercial retail, but do the occasional job on the side for friends. This is real world knowledge that you just can't get without experience. Keep up the good work!
If you care about your clients- find the best LUMBER u can. Yes engineered beams work great most of the time, but thats where the benefits stop.
We used up to 28 feet on a building in Palo Alto in '79, they called El Pino Viejo, 2 x 14, 1 foot on center, 4 x 14s bolted to the walls, which were speed block, and we did some pour in place. We nailed the joist hanger nails with a palm nailer, which was like a heavy radio mic, with a tip that ran in and out, a spring loaded collar held the nail, and retracted to drive the nail home, it was pneumatic.
Some 15 years ago we had issues with nail pops in subfloor over LVL (not solid sawn) T&B chord I joists. By happenstance, I ran across a report on nail types for various lumbers. We had been using ring-shanks for our subflooring since whenever, but turns out this is WRONG for engineered lumber. The glues in the engineered materials make the fibers more rigid and brittle, and the annular rings on the ring-shanks nails act like a broach does in metal. They punch a hole in the engineered wood, so that the fibers do not close around the rings, and cannot therefore provide resistance to withdrawal. A smooth shank will push aside the wood fibers, without cutting them, and the glues and the (typical) coating on the nail shank will develop the needed withdrawal resistance. In solid sawn, the ring shank pushes aside the unreinforced (by glues) fibers, which then relax back into the grooves, providing the greater withdrawal resistance.
We have also found that 1 1/2" hanger nails into solid sawn generally loosen during drying (really noticeable on hurricane ties). This is significant enough that the rule is 2 1/2" hanger nails if at all possible, whatever the spec. We also like structural screws a lot; they don't become loose, but the labor is a bit intense. We are often able to get away from hurricane ties by using solid rollover blocking flush to exterior on the top plate, between rafter tails, and using tall sheathing to tie the wall studs to that blocking, which is then nailed solidly to the rafters. Just need a responsive engineer, and careful management of the framers. Oh, we don't do vented attics, and do seal the wall sheathing to roof sheathing, as part of the continuous exterior insulation system, as per these videos.
Why not spec a Parallam post and save the bolt-up labor?
Interesting about the withdrawal of ring shank nails from LVL. Would you happen to remember where you found the report you ran across?
@@nomen_meus This was long ago, and I did not download the document. I did review and discuss with my (superb) structural engineer, who was as surprised as I was. I went out on my current job, and found that the ring-shanks that had popped (renovation in a very old house, where we had to be tying in to stuff that was a bit below modern standards) could sometimes be pulled out by finger power only (!!). It was eye-opening, to say the least. The only thing that had saved my jobs (I surmise) was the rigorous use of subfloor adhesive. The bit about relative shrinkage between solid sawn (always) and engineered wood (basically none) in the video is an important concept to be aware of, as it can can cause distress much later (with little recourse). The LVL in our case was because the 100+ year old solid sawn was dried down to a final dimension, and we wanted the new to NOT shrink after we installed it. Match now/ match later.
@@leestevens446 yes I use LVL scraps from work in my 70 year old home reno. It's almost always straight so I can just focus on correcting the old timber, and the low risk of shrinkage means one less thing to worry about. An interesting thing I've found out about LVL is that if it gets wet it will swell, but will retain some of that expansion once completely dried out. So I try to avoid that...
I found it strange that he didn't mention structural screws at all. If you want a squeak-free floor all you need is construction adhesive, normal OSB/plywood, and structural screws. They won't break, won't back out, and the glue keeps the OSB from rubbing against the joists in the spots between screws.
The trees are so small and immature that nothing holds anymore. I saw the last of the decent lumber go and since then its been a nailing nightmare!
Again, Thank You! for pointing out what products are best.
As I'm learning, what IS and what isn't good.. I will KNOW when speaking to tradesmen if they're telling me the truth or not.
I come to understand, what I'm not able to fix myself.
I figure if I'm better educated, I will stand a better chance of not being taken advantage of when hiring someone to do the repairs needed.
So with that said, again. Thank You for taking your time to walk through this video is a detailed way, even I could understand. (I took notes. lol)
There's at least one person in the comment section, that seemed a bit negative.. Ignore him/them.
It would seem he neglected to eat his prunes. (eye roll with a Tiff)
You're here for me, not him. I benefited from this, as I'm sure others have as well.
Have a great night!
Jenn
I'm here because since I graduated from architect university I mostly work with concrete and brick. Next month we have a project mostly builted using wood. Thank you, this is a very informative video.
GREAT SHOW and I enjoy watching, wish you had a counterpart in the northern region... Our construction methods differ greatly.
Okay,.... I'm tearing out my solid wood floors and framing,.... going with engineered wood materials. Wish me luck!!
Engineered Lumber has so many advantages over traditional Lumber but for three (#1 it's more susceptible to mold, #2 acts as an accelerant in house fires & #3 cost ). That being said, I still wish I would have used engineered floor joist in my house when I built it 12 years ago. Exterior walls using 2×6 traditional Lumber, no problems ( I would do that again in a heartbeat plus my wife likes the larger window sills for knick knacks and Christmas decorations). Interior traditional 2x4 Lumber walls, quite a few got sent back to the lumber yard, but in the end the carpenters did a good job catching those warp boards and throwing them aside.
Same char rate as lumber look at the astm
As a volunteer firefighter I have to ask, is there going to be fire protection applied to those OSB web beams? Will you be using a Type-X drywall on the ceilings? How about a residential fire sprinkler system? An expensive house, with priceless occupants is worth protecting.
7:32 I still feel uneasy about the column, especially when I see that the grouped studs are resting on a horizontal piece, with the 'grain' going the wrong direction. I think a steel column would provide an extra measure of safety and longevity.
I agree. Those bolts take a lot of wood out of the column also.
Eh glue holds the house together... Looks good from my place
You need to use steal beams in that situation, I agree 100%. Rolling the dice is never cool when people are living in that house. Depending on the area, you can get extreme weather, and I have seen some serious failures with the family in the home.
There's nothing wrong with that column resting on that sill plate. That appears to be a Boise Cascade VERSA-STUD for the sill plate which has a max allowable stress perpendicular to the grain of 450 psi. for a bearing surface of 3.5"x7.5" that gives a max of 11,800 lbs. I'm assuming they went with the 5 ply column because they couldn't source the equivalent sized VERSA-LAM column locally or something but Boise Cascade lists the max load for an equivalent monolithic column as 11,025 lbs. The sill plate is rated for the same magnitude of load as the column resting on it.
www.bc.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/versa-stud_2650_1_7_wall_guide_east.pdf
As for the notion that the bolt hole is weakening the column, that's already accounted for. The engineered max loads allow for up to a 3/4" hole to be drilled through the middle 1/3rd of the stud. Is it weaker? Yes. Does it matter? No, the max allowable loads already take that into account regardless of whether or not the hole is there. Even as far as extreme weather is concerned, this is an interior column and not part of a shear wall, it's not going to see a substantial increase in load even if a category 5 hurricane hits the house, that would mostly increase load on other portions of the framing.
Structurally this is completely fine and putting a steel column there instead would make it a headache to try and hide behind drywall.
Yeah, I'm sure the engineer was just doing it all seat-of-the-pants: "That looks about right." Good job looking out, guys.
That was really awesome having the engineer explain all about these engineered wood
I don't believe he is an engineer. I am an engineer and I know that we don't come good looking and well spoken. Next time get a real engineer.
Can confirm
You must be a young engineer. There are good-looking and well-spoken engineers. I've seen one myself. Once. Twice, if you count TH-cam.
I fit that bill...but i'm a ME/MBA working as a sales engineer. We are a little different. :-)
Where's his pocket protector ?
As an engineer I resemble this remark! 😂🤓
How do you address electrical and low voltage wiring on these homes? Do you for example require your AV contractor to do BIM drawings so as the verify that no structure is compromised as they drill and install wire and other misc materials?
Hi fun video, since im a i-beam constructor from Norway. You covered the most important "issues" with i-beam, witch is "shear force",
I always put details on my drawings on how to do it right (since its commonly overlooked).
I do have one question about that coloumn with all that load, it sits on a timber sill, also its on the end at the sill?
Usually all coloums with extensive load has to have direct contact with foundation, since "sills - not sure what u call them" have wood fibers horisontal.
And structurally wood is weak with fibers horisontal, is this different with engineered wood?
Regards (sorry for bad english).
I'm curious about that too, perhaps IT IS different with engineered lumber. From my experience, it is very hard to compress plywood, which is basically what an LVL is with different dimensions. I definitely would not do it with traditional lumber though.
The LVL has a higher perpendicular to grain value than the typical SPF or SYP lumber used. You are spot on with standard lumber crushing perp to grain.
Glad he clarified the nail vs. screw. Thanks, from Georgia.
If I worried about post tension cables. I might try to access the ends, and hook a radio signal to it, like underground detection with USA, Underground Service Alert, companies hook a radio signal to the conductor, it acts like an antenna, and they have a sensor that they pass over the ground until they find the conductor.
Would a good metal detector work ?
Hey Matt! Love this video so much. Its honestly awesome from a young guy understanding the perspective been engineer/ builder and why each role is so crucial an important. I've been deciding between the engineering and CM route and love how they work together.
I wonder why your engineer, regarding structural hangers, didn't mention the shear strength of nails vs screws. And also the pull strength. There is a big difference...as I remember learning. Correct? It's an honest question. Thank you kindly
Because the engineer is a tricky dicky. You are correct typically. Nails and screws exists across a spectrum of different strengths and weaknesses but the fastener is not always selected based upon its inherent qualities. Nails and screws have a sheer rating and the medium they are installed into cannot change this as it is a character of the fastener. Resistance to being unfastened is a team effort, part on the fastener and part on the fastening medium. Composite materials typically do not offer the same resistance to unfastening so there is really no benefit to using screws and screws typically damage the composite during installation anyway.
Question 1: Are you going to eventually spray the floor i-joists with some sort of a fire retardant paint?.
Question 2: Should upstairs bathrooms and utility rooms have some sort of central floor drain,
for those just in case(oops) washer/toilet overflows so your first floor ceiling drywall does not get ruined.
Question 3: Are going to use rock wool for certain inside walls for sound isolation?.
California plumbing contractor here, love question #2!
@@joelfedor4984 I know in a lot of laundry rooms there is an overflow under the washer with a pan. I would think a good water detection system with automatic shut off valve is in order here.
@8:35: Saddle fasteners are proud, where column fasteners are reccessed. This detail seems odd to me. Just wondering, how this was finished? Was the column built out with a furring strip, or was the finish drywall facing interrupted, or was the material from the back of the drywall removed to accommodate the fasteners and saddle?
probably crown moulding after your comment of material removed from back
So, what is it that is being remodeled?
Are you keeping the mail box? It looks like a new house on an old slab to me, but I’m just an amateur.
How does engineered lumber hold up in a fire, vs traditional lumber? The reason I'm asking is because our local fire department is now refusing to enter houses with engineered trusses. They're stating that in a fire, the glue gives way, allowing the floor to drop quicker than a solid piece of wood, like a 2"x8" or 2"x10".
This is accurate. I work for a forensic engineering firm and we have done controlled burns on traditional sawn lumber vs I-joists. The I-joist burned much faster and completely disintegrated well before the solid lumber. It was concerning to say the least.
Where is this fantasy land where builders are concerned about building in other than the cheapest and fastest manner and an engineer is available to come inspect the work?
Timothy ____ TH-cam fantasyland...
It’s the builders house? Also, most people rely on inspectors to do this type of work. Some knows, some don’t. But you always have an option to hire an engineer to come out and inspect the work. Money talks.
If the buyers are willing to pay most builders would be happy to use the best quality materials, the problem is that everyone wants champaign at beer pricing.
In California depending on the engineering firm used it has become common practice for the engineer to come out and sign off on the job. Builders are just like anyone else, some are good others aren't. All of the custom homes that I have worked on have always been top quality. I don't do production work anymore but you always go by what the plans say. There is a real shortage of qualified help in the trades these days and I'm afraid once the people like myself retire there won't be anyone left to build the things that need to be built. Kids these days don't want to work so there is no new blood.
In California there is strict codes. And engineers have to be on site for frame inspection.
I think this is your 4th video now where you keep praising engineered lumber without ever once bringing up the drawbacks, except cost (barely). Engineered lumber uses a lot of glue that off-gasses and also isn't responsible fiber use when it isn't needed. It's much more processed and typically has higher embodied carbon. Unlike OSB, LSL, or the webs of a TJI that are made out of waste (mostly) chips, plywood and LVL are rotary peeled. Logs for rotary peeling are bigger, more mature trees. Framing studs come from small, fast growing trees. If you are concerned about stud quality, insist on KD or S-Dry and you won't have nearly the bow/twist problems of GRN. I'm not a LEED expert, but I don't think your house could be LEED certified with all that glue.
Matt got a deal on his lumber package from BC because they are a sponsor - and that's why he's using engineered lumber everywhere. Matt has never paid much attention to green building - he regularly encases homes in spray foam. This build he will use a bit of Havelock Wool insulation (surely donated and likely another paid promo) which is a welcome new direction.
In residential construction, I think you would be surprised at how easy it is to be LEED certified on a budget like this. There are so many points available with this build and the local sourcing of materials. Where he may fall short in one area he will easily make up in others.
Finish materials such as vinyl flooring and the cheap grades of MDF used in cabinetry off-gas far more than engineered lumber used for framing. I would start by looking first at finishes and cabinetry. In the past urea-formaldehyde glues were the main adhesive in plywood and osb products. But now more and more manufacturers are switching to phenol-formaldehyde and isocyanurate glues. These off-gas during curing. But that process is complete by the time the wood gets to the lumber yard.
I'd probably opt for finger-jointed studs over LVL studs if my concern was straight walls. But LVLs are certainly extremely useful for headers, beams and rim joists.
EWP products generally contain 4-6% adhesives. None of the products mentioned are made from “waste” chips. Products like OSB, LSL, and web materials also allow the manufacturer to use non-environmentally stressed species that are not fit for use as conventional lumber. EWP products produce a longer, stronger and straighter product that uses 80-95% of the wood fiber in the log. By comparison, Conventional lumber generally utilizes about 60% of the log for framing lumber. (note - today of the off fall from either product is sold for other products or used to power the plants and doesn’t go to waste. Adhesive products used in today’s EWP products have less off-gassing than the wood used in manufacture. You would be surprised at how Green Engineered lumber is when compared to conventional lumber - better utilization of the wood fiber, no culls, less product used with less bulk, less waste.EWP is environmentally friendly, most are green certified, and build a better product with better products and less waste.
Just don't ever let it get even a little bit wet . . .
Great video Matt! with your engineer, everything was explained well. It's also the way I would do it.
Yeah and a close up shot of the installation of a web stiffener would have been handy. I didn't notice any while the flooring was being glued down.
Oh god I can imagine in 30 years a new homeowner coming in and seeing that thin column sticking out and saying “ hmm might just open up this space a bit and trim this wall piece back a foot or so . . .” And by by house.
That's why you should always hire a professional. That way, when they do it you have someone to sue. ;o)
Literally any house you just randomly start cutting pieces out of will become unsafe.
I seen something you should be doing, that I didn't see done. It good to put a little dab of sub floor adhesive in your joist hangers to prevent squeaks.
When would you ever have a post pensioned slab in a residential application, especially slab on grade application? @9:10 @matt risinger
Thanks for asking this... I had the same question.
@@revitplumber I think he is probably trying to sound knowledgeable or made a mistake. Maybe he is referring to a suspended slab with long spans..., maybe a basement room under a driveway?
About the only way I can see the need for post tensioned residential slab....
the application of what i am assuming was a warp stabilizer (video thing) at 8:28 looks so smooth. Almost as smooth as the house. Thanks for sharing the info. Never heard someone claim deck screws were brittle. Maybe ill just go full stainless from here on out :)
Typically screws in general are very brittle especially in shear strength (obviously some are designed to be strong in shear but not typically) even stainless screws unless rated and designed for shear loading are not ideal. Don't get me wrong screws are great in "tension" or "compression", if you will, but as soon as you apply an axial load they tend to snap! Stay safe !
any metal that is hard, screws, is also less ductile, brittle. it's a side effect of hardening. that's why drywall screws have the head break off so often. try bending a screw over in a vice with a hammer, then try a nail. most often, the screw will break long before it bends, the nail will bend repeatedly before it breaks.
My house is 103 years old and made from rough sawn lumber and the floor joists are tree trunks with bark still on them. Still standing.
Exactly. I live in an area where homes were built in the 20"s with minimal lumber and huge snowloads. Hardly any type of foundation etc. They are still standing although most have been torn down and rebuilt with the massive greedfest housing boom.
100+ yo old houses were built with old growth trees. much stronger than any second or third growth trees available now. fir and pine were basically hardwoods back then, being already many hundreds of years old when the great clearcuts began
I wish Matt was in Australia and could take a look at my insane, old roof structure made with hardwoods, treated pine, and who knows what else, sloppily connected and all covered in old Colorbond steel panels. It creaks and pops in loud cascading waves across the length of the house but it has stood up to some serious winds that scream over the hill like a tsunami.
Excellent video Matt. As a builder in Ca. I appreciate your videos and your engineers perseverance in creating superior building practices. Look forward to your future video’s.
Such a good allocation of resources spending on the permanent part of the house. I see too many clients willing to have poor quality structure and mechanicals so they can spend more of decorating and furniture.
Well, any builder worth a damn knows it's what behind the walls and below the floor that matters. However, homeowners don't have a clue and with the lack of information about various builders and the quality of homes they build, they can only evaluate on what they see. What needs to happen is to start rating homes on quality as well as aesthetics, amenities and location. And that requires banksters to start demanding appraisers giving premiums for build quality/efficiency.
What sucks is we have legions of shows/reviewers posting about every new cars and electronics, but nobody talking about the quality of various builders. It's disgraceful considering homes are typically the biggest investment people make. Instead we rely on incompetent 'appraisers' who barely know their elbow from you-know-what.
What I don’t get is why he didn’t use concrete block reinforced with rebar and concrete, or ICF construction.
We definitely need a rating system that is well marketed so that the common buyer has a standardize reference. If higher quality doesnt get a return for the money, only customs will use that method.
Ya think ?! LOL - great if obvious observation...i just dotn understand why anyone building their own house doesnt do it right. Sure if you are buying a spec house, who cares if it meets code-just be sure to flip it in 20 or so years. A house is not like a woman’s dress or shoes to be discarded after a few years,
nope as builders we should'nt do any extra then what the plans call for and if you want to make structural improvements (useless) you need to go thru the city the inspectors wont appreciate and it will look very amateur if you try to improve the structural on your own this lumber is not better quality it just has bigger load and span and its good in certain applications. all houses built today are designed way stronger then houses 20 or 30 years ago and yes its better to spend your money on stuff that you actually going to see and improve the value the house
Gr8 video Mat. Luv the part about the braces and hangars and what type of fasteners needed. Very important no matter what lumber is used. Thanks.
Matt, I'm just a DIY guy. I have done a couple of remodels on different houses. I really enjoy your videos. I've always said I would never buy a new house from a builder. Most of the stuff I see is just garbage. Granted most of them are the DR Hortens of the world. Watching you makes me realize that there are actually nice new homes being built. 1st, how do you go about finding a quality builder? 2nd, can you give me a ballpark on the difference in price around something like you put together vs the track housing builders of the world. I imagine there are a lot of things that increase the price. Better materials. Better contractors, etc. I get that it all adds up, but to how much more?
EDITOR: You audio compression / noise reduction is cutting out the top and low end of their voices (prime example @11:50). It's pretty distracting; sounds like you're listening through a cup on a door.
Otherwise, good edits.
Sounds more like low bitrate to me. But I concur...bad audio!
I didn't even notice. Many viewers are more interested in content not audio quality
@@samt5663 I didn't notice but I think that's because I stopped listening as they really weren't saying much.
love the attention to detail! I believe in one of your past videos you might have mentioned the cost increase for going the LVL route, but that would be a good detail to mention. AND: what is the industry's take on off-gassing of these manufactured products? Will gasses be gone before the sheetrock and the tightening up of the house is completed? There is also the possibility of the toxic hazards during the manufacturing process. I would imagine the big wood product guys make sure the workers are protected, but that's not always the case (see PVC manufacturing procedures). Thanks, once again, for a great video.
Hi Tim. My understanding is that whatever out-gassing is going to happen due to the glues will happen during the glue curing process at the factory. I don't know what worker protections are required in the factories but hopefully something is in place. I don't believe there is any out-gassing issue once the materials are on a jobsite. Indoor air quality will probably be far more affected by simply cooking with a natural gas range rather than due to out-gassing from the lumber.
I believe the major manufacturers have moved away from the urea-formaldehyde glues, which out-gas longer than the phenol-formaldehyde and isocyanurate glues. If I was working with a client who was especially sensitive (I have in the past) I would pay more attention to the sheet goods than the framing lumber. Avoid OSB. Use plywood that has a non-formaldehyde based glue. Columbia Forest Products' "PureBond" is one to look into. More importantly, pay attention to the material used in cabinetry. Most stock kitchen cabinetry uses the cheapest and highest off-gassing MDF and melamine glues. Cabinetry and floor finishes such as vinyl are a far bigger concern for indoor air quality.
@@HistoricHomePlans Thanks for the reply. Yes, finishes are (can be) a huge concern regarding air quality. You correctly bring up cooking with gas affecting IAQ. The availability of induction electric cooktops should make gas cooking obsolete. I would challenge any cook or chef to test its effectiveness over gas. Removing gas from all parts of a structure is important, and quite easy to achieve good results with electricity. [sorry for the tangent]
@@timskufca8039 From what I know most chefs already prefer using an electric oven over a gas one because you have finer control over the temperature and the type of cooking. Hopefully induction isn't far behind, but from what I understand it's a bit of a toss up as to what they prefer just because old traditions die hard. I know my next cook top will be induction that's for sure.
@@vincep7014 I've used an induction cooktop for about 15 years (and have a background in commercial cooking). I love its response time!, and cleaning up is EASY! The problems are cost for purchasing and repairs. Gas cooktop is simple plumbing; induction repair is replacement. (I don't have any data as far as maintenance history on induction).
Tim Skufca problem with any indication cooktop is they eventually scratch even if you are meticulous and look like crap-otherwise many advantage however.I also laugh a bit when people is iOS of huge commercial grade gas cooktops and dont have a sophisticated automated vent fan system , yet are obsessed over outgassing from fabric on a chair or LVLS !
These engineered products seem to be the way of the future. It's exciting to think of the longevity, durability, and low-carbon implications of something like this becoming the standard here in North America. With proper moisture control, there's no reason a home like that won't last +500 years
Any advice on which adhesive to use when fixing to the edge of LVL? (sides where you see layers).
I haven't found a product that bonds yet, and will absolutely never rely on nails through the edges, only screws and accept that the glue is only there as a 'gasket' to minimise squeaks.
What are levels of out gassing with the adhesive content of these materials? Concerned about impact to clients with allergies and chemical sensitivities.
Impossible to answer generally. Every product i have ever seen (denmark) is marked with what glue is used. OSB haven't contained formaldehyde in years (other than natural content in the wood). Some people are very sensitive, but they can be sensitive to the out gassing of natural lumber
@@Atramentum1 natural wood does not outgas. Natural wood that has been inundated with chemicals at the sawmill before processing does outgas. It is too bad they do that. It seems more and more people are reacting to these chemicals.
I wonder how the engineered studs last if you happen to have a flood? Locally some places built 80 years ago are seeing a flood, never before seen due to a 20 mile long ice jam. Or even the happenstance of a check valve on a sump pump failing and town water backing into the basement. 🤔
if LVL gets saturated it will expand, and then shrink again, but not back to its original size. I picked up one 45mm thick offcut I'd left in the rain, it was about 49, then once dry 46. The width expanded then shrank back to original. I think it gains thickness because the glue laminates change. I'd say the overall distortion would be what you'd experience from (dry) sawn lumber though.
At 11.02 ..you stated drywall cracks from "settling ".....I truly hope it's not from settling as it is from acclamination due to moisture / humidity
I see you cut the rafters at the header for a flat finish. How are the rafters tied to the header at the top end? (at 12:07)
I love your videos Matt......I think your one of the best.
Engineered joist perform so much better than dimensional lumber, their only disadvantage is in a fire they do burn through quicker leading to floor collapse sooner.
It looks like your using 1 1/8" structural rim board and along with that you need crush blocks for load bearing walls. They are installed here where needed so this will pass but I thought you would explain to everyone why they are there.
Last thing......a bit of pl400 glue in the saddle of each hanger before you set the joist in gives even more resistance to squeaks.
I'm glad you mentioned why you don't use screws as a structural fastener .....in those hangers for instance.
I used to be a contributing contractor on the Holmes on Homes forums and Mike Holmes always used screws for framing and I started quite the argument with his forum moderators about using screws for framing. I kept telling them screws do not meet building code for framing anything structural with wood including exterior walls.
They finally stopped recommending screws for wood framing after other contractors backed me up.....and then Mike shut the forums down after I also got into it with them about using cinder blocks for basement foundations.
Keep up the good work Matt.
Mistake I encountered on all 3 houses I built was missing roof truss bracing. The truss plans show the bracing but the framers missed some.
I hope you know that all LVL PSL LSL lamined lumber products have zero water resistance. They can maybe handle getting a little wet once. I've seen those things literally disintegrate from water exposure. I've also been told that it is much harder to nail into engineered wood products compared to solid sawn, I'm wondering as a building what your feeling is on that? At 1:13 / 1:18 why is there a vertical seam in the header with all the joists landing on it, that makes me nervous. The engineered studs make some sense for balloon framed tall walls, usually we're doing 2x6 studs for insulation though. I just did this calc and 2x6 DF#2 studs @ 16" o.c. were able to support a 30ft wide roof with a 10psf horizontal wind load and were at 97% capacity in combined bending and axial factoring in a 2" diameter conduit in the middle of the stud. Not sure what you're talking about with floor trusses at 5:24, they are also made with some trimmable material on the end. At 6:13 what you're saying about screws in hangers in incorrect, but you correct it later, yes all hangers can use the SD structural screws instead of nails and it usually has a higher capacity. And yes the engineer needs to specify the fasteners for the hanger where there are different options with different capacities. Also you need to pay attention to the supporting member, for a 2x deck ledger or any 2x ledger, you usually can only use 1-1/2" nails and the capacity is 60-70% of normal. That's a really cool column at 8:40, I'm surprised you didn't use a PSL / LSL or GLB column though. The labor to bolt all those plys together. I'm not 100% on my built up column specs, it always required so many fasteners though. And I hope you checked the sill for compression perpendicular to grain, it's 625 psi max for DF#2 sill, or you need a steel plate to increase the bearing area. Sheetrock cracking at headers, at least the classic diagonal crack starting at the corner, has nothing to do with wood expansion, that is differential settlement caused by an overloaded or substandard foundation. It can also be shear cracking caused my earthquake or severe wind storms. Cool house though, I like it.
Would like to have more of this type of video with engineering info that applies to real world situations. Your engineer is a sharp guy. Thanks Matt.
Watching these videos is both enlightening and scary. How many builders out there are rookies and don't follow these principles?
As a residential home framer and licensed architect I don’t like the narrow flange TJI’s, they split when you nail them at the plate. I have also seen TJI’s have significant creep over many years of use, more than dimensional lumber. I prefer web trusses by far, though they can cause issues if something needs to be reworked. They can be designed for different loading situations, made to carry more load, made to have less deflection, can be made to span long distances, can accommodate duct work, electrical and plumbing better.
You gotta keep i joist dry. Paint them so the moisture don't destroy the osb. It will stay same dimension as long as I joist stays dry. Did you use those I joist over your bathroom? Maybe should of painted them.
Would love it if you could dig into the budget implications of various decisions you made with this house. The most relevant critique of engineered lumber everywhere is obviously cost, but we don't have that part of the picture here.
That's because there is no budget for this particular job.
How all this glued structural elements react to water? I am not talking about some moisture in the air, this can be controlled in the house, I am talking about burst pipe, kids plating in the sink, etc.
The engineer mentioned an advantage of the I-joists being trimmable but they also have floor trusses now that have trimmable ends.
can you, or do you have a video on the different types of trusses for residential homes?
I forgot to mention that the house had been remodeled so many times the framing members have been cut displaced and adding onto,YetYet they are still standing. I now live in California where you have Over engineered everything, I like new ideas in the building trades but I think we’ve gone a little bat shit crazy.
Hey Matt is there a book that shows me where joist hangers are required and what kind in a new construction house
What about steel framing? That was popular awhile back. Has steel gone out of style? Which lasts longer, steel or wood products? Rot vs. rust?
My thought exactly. With increasing average yearly temps we are also getting a dramatic increase in termites. I love wood but my next house will have a poured concrete slab foundation and exterior walls. All interior walls and the roof will be steel studs and trusses. The roof will be finished with standing seam metal roofing. Wood doors and trim are fine but nothing structural will be made of wood. All electricals will be run in metal conduit.
I built Steel House in Germany.
Steel is an excellent thermal bridge :) Can last 50 years out in the elements. You try to avoid material with different expention rates. Hardwood can last 25 years out in the elements. If wood is left dry for hundreds of years in building it acts like a carbon storage, has less of an impact on the environment compared to steel.
Matt's engineer seems to prefer not to mix steel and wood when possible. There's a case to be made for that as far as constructibility. Also they behave quite differently as far as shrinkage and so forth, which can result in drywall cracks. If he'd used a steel column in that spot there would have been an annoying question of how to finish it. With wood the dry wall can just be screwed to it like a regular stud. Certainly they can be mixed. And there are probably occasions where steel is the best choice. But personally I'd opt for sticking to one material under most conditions. As far as all steel framing, that's clearly an option. But it's a whole different type of carpentry. Matt's got a team that he's worked with for years and they're skilled at what they do, in wood. So why rock the boat?
@@ArthursHD That's correct about carbon. Trees sequester carbon in their wood as they grow. When we use that wood for permanent applications, such as building, we prevent that wood from rotting and returning the carbon to the atmosphere. In environmental terms this is an advantage for wood over steel or masonry materials.
I just finished framing a floor structure for a three season room addition at my house. I went to the Simpson catalog online to spec connectors and fasteners to meet my design loads (I'm a civil engineer).
The hangers that arrived from the local lumber yard were for the same lumber size (a 2x8 hanger is a 2x8 hanger, right?). The ones they provided had different load capacities and well as different fastener requirements.
This happened with post bases, joist hangers, and 10d Simpson nails where I ordered 3" and they sent the 1-1/2" that they stock. I had a "come to Jesus" meeting with the salesman about asking questions rather than assuming that I had "made a mistake" on the materials list.
Nice infomercial. Big money in that build. Looks rock solid.
6 min 21 s... you have nails in the side of your hanger on the bottom, into the I joint are those holes rated to accept nails, or are they are just pinch points for the I joist?
at 2:31 one of the studs in the filled in window is not lined up at the top.
Timely, we're just about to install some 14' LVLs for a new "tall wall" and a 4-ply 18" LVL for an open loft. Love it, more please!
Very good episode. Learned much
at 4:20 the rim joist first time I used the wood i beams i called the engineer at the co that made them and asked him about it lol cool nice to see the same question being asked all these years later
A solid envelope with excellent acoustics & sound proofing, good HVAC & plumbing, and enough storage and space to make what I have now look sparse.
That's really all I want in a new house. Sure I like the look of mouldings and trim, fancy ceiling treatments, etc... I am even tempted to have enough of a crown moulding to put some led lightstrips up for indirect light. But those things do not really impact the way you live as much as having enough space, clean comfortable air and being able to hear some music without hearing everything from two rooms over does.
As you read through the comments you realize why the world needs engineers haha
I think I saw a skylight hole . What are your thoughts on Skylights. Everyone I ever put has leaked around the glass. They would be great for a desert thou.
Great video, as always. Wondering: if one were to build a rooftop deck, could you use engineered lumber? Obviously wouldn't be able to rip an angle into them... are there options?
Yea just get engineered stock lumber. You can cut whatever angle you want into that. You’ll just be paying a premium for the “fine tuned” hardwood.
Throughout I felt that the photographer and editor thought it was more important for me to see the people gesticulating than for me to get a look at what they were talking about.
Very enjoyable video. Do you have any videos on reinforcing I-joists to support loads or overhead storage in a garage setting?
I know engendered wood is more stable, but solid wood is what I like to build house from more then osb boards . I would like to know what’s going to happen after 100 years , with these osb houses ,, osb lumber has minimal moisture absorption , water will kill osb has no give .. the house must be 100% seal from water and moisture.. solid wood can take water no problem if there is leak or moisture problems , no house is 100% leak and moister proof ..
1/2” osb vs 1 1/2 “ solid wood joist , I pick solid wood lumber .. all theses engineer lumber products is hold by glue only , that glue fails game over .. solid wood has no glue
I’m not a building scientist by any means. But I would be shocked about hearing of a glue failure. And now with the spray foaming and sheathing with the wrap attached I think these houses will last the test of time. I’m just a remodeler, but I love the advantec subflooring. Water just beads up on it. I’ve left scraps out in the elements an no mold growth and board doesn’t turn to mush like OSB. If engineered studs weren’t so expensive I’d switch to them.
Some of the more modern glues used in these materials are pretty moisture resistant, but remember it is just gluing tiny bits of wood together. The glue passes the stresses to the little bits of wood, and concentrates the stresses in ways you do not see with tree lumber. Glue fails or little wood chips fail when damp due to stress concentration - either way your building falls apart if it gets wet.
Personally I like the look of steel stud systems (as long as they are installed properly and designed with proper safety factors), but have never built with them or examined how well they hold up over 50 years or so.
Advantech is incredible. A scrap of Advantech can lay in the dirt for the whole build and never swell. I once had the displeasure of working on a house where the developer was having major cash flow issues, and we had to leave a house with only an Advantech subfloor. It was totally open to the elements for months and months. When the developer finally had us come back, the Advantech was dark gray. It looked terrible. But it was as flat and solid as the day it was installed.
@@wmichaelbooth Any structure sheathed with standard plywood would need to be completely stripped before you could continue because the plywood would have lost all it's structural capacity. People have a tendency to poo poo engineered lumber but they usually have little to no real basis for it. Like you say, I've seen LVL's sit submerged in water all winter long with no water penetration what so ever. Pull it out of the puddle and wipe it off and it's as good as new. Another major plus to using these engineered products is no termites.
If water is penetrated your sob wall sheathing you either didn't install house wrap or you need to fire your siding company .water shouldn't be penetrating threw the siding .
If my view is not mistaken, should that 5 ply Versa-lam column not be run through to the concrete floor rather than sitting on the bottom plate of the wall it is in? You talked about crushing for the BCI joists but same scenario there also under a point load. And it probably should have a column base.
Serious question.... at what point or if ever does engineered lumber delaminate?
All this information and for FREE . Love it !
Hi, regarding plwd infill on window headers to flush out framing: Have you thought of substituting 1/2" rigid board insulation to the warm side?
That's what I'm doing on my current build
Nice internal structure. When would you use a trellis system instead of I-joists? I like how you are eliminating any squeaks.
Love the channel and Matt but im looking for the section where there are rookie mistakes? I am a novice guy looking to build in the next 24 months so I would appreciate the "don't do these things" section. Was I not paying attention well enough?
He mentioned nails and web stiffeners
Matt, one thing you guys should cover is the growing, and somehow still unknown, requirement for shear walls; where these are required, their purpose, common framing mistakes and how to resolve them. It's been an interesting topic since the designers (architects and engineers) have different thoughts about how to satisfy this, not to mention how farmers think it should be done.
Yes, I'd like to see more about that too. Also, discuss using some of the prefabricated shear walls like Simpson StrongWall.
Great video. Love the technical content.
Do you not use construction adhesive with your hangers? I was always told that adhesive will prevent noise. Good videos. Thanks
No discussion on what happens to those OSB i-joists in the event of a fire?
Same chare rate as wood. Less material to burn though
how will the sheetrock be finished with that saddle protruding out from the 5 lvl studs and the 2 bolts
Multi camera shoot with a new style of post-processing editing. New video techniques used. Great job in post with the bRoll and the graphics! There is an issue with the two mics. They are not balanced to one another.
Another thing I've noticed is that the mics are set to auto-gain. You can tell because switching from one person speaking to another, the first few words they say are super low. I'm wondering if they switched audio people (or editors) for this particular episode. The audio all sounds very muddy.
Also Matt's feed has a low level hiss that made me think my computer fans kicked in to high gear until I paused the video. I'm using speakers so it must be driving people on headphones even more crazy.
Knowledge is power. Looking forward to more episodes with Whit!
Lvl are great we just used thereb for some 30' rafters the plans called for joining 20' and 16' 2x 12s . We took one look at the lumber that was sent out to us and decided no way.
Can you hang shelving etc on engineered studwork? Seems a bad idea to screw into the edge of plywood to me...???...
Great video Matt. So glad you continue to bring design professionals into your more recent videos. So many times do I hear contractors and homeowners considering design documents as an added expense and do not understand the value in having a good set of documents (instructions). As an Architect, I often try to relate what we design professionals bring to the table in lament terms the best I can. For those who bake, would you ever try to bake bread not following a recipe? Those who are fitness fanatics, would you ever not plan your meals, and expect to get fit? And so on. I try to give my potential clients not a sales pitch, but instead, find ways to show them there is tremendous value in design documents and building a design team. Whit clearly shows that here...Thanks for continuing to show the complexity of our industry and how it takes the right professionals to accomplish something great. Thanks, Matt @ BOTTEGA+
Matt your show is an incredible resource. You are increasing the quality of so many projects around the world. Keep up the great work!
Something to think about.... Gusset plates, glue lam boards, and engineered wood I-joists will give way much faster in a fire.
Engineered wood is the new name for particale board.
It's the latest method of raping the consumer! Notch a load of poles with a chainsaw, and your structure will outlive this gluelam nonsense!🤣
Yes, 'engineered material' sounds SO much better than particle board, but IMO it is still the same worthless crap, only now frequently sold for higher prices than real wood. The big problem with this stuff is that the design numbers look good when the material is new, but let it see the slightest water exposure and it quickly turns back into what it was originally - sawdust and wood chips. Currently involved with remodelling an old building which had a bad roof. Different sections of the roof deck were made out of 1x lumber, CDX plywood, or 'engineered material'. Every piece of particle board on the deck was falling apart. Most of the plywood showed at least the start of delamination and was also removed. At least 90% of the roof deck made from dimension lumber was essentially undamaged here in dry NM and was left in place. All that particle board in high stress locations in the house in this video makes me shudder. Hope this guy never gets a roof leak or plumbing leak that goes undetected for any length of time ... Part of the trouble with engineers - they frequently believe and rely on the manufacturer's data on these miracle materials, without using appropriate safety factors and without considering long term effects of the environment on the design numbers. You want an old guy for an engineer - one who has made a few mistakes and seen or lived with the consequences.
Robert Muckle facts
@@kimlground206 well said.
Engineered lumber is definitely not particle board. In most cases the engineered products out perform dimensional lumber in every way but cost. They are stronger, more stable, are more resistant to weather, insects and rot. Houses built with these products are also more likely to still be standing after large earthquakes which is always a plus. It isn't necessary to go as far as this guy has gone but it certainly won't hurt. So, no I disagree with your assumptions.