94 Chevy 3500 454 TBI Replacement Issues!!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2019
- Get Swag Here: tinyurl.com/AARebuilds
Find the true history of salvage auction cars: autoauctions.io/?ref=autoauct...
Get your $4.89 CarFax or AutoCheck here: www.autovhr.com/deal
Let Your Mechanic come to YOU for repairs ($10 off here):
www.yourmechanic.com/rl/bfJ6E...
Get Honey FREE and start saving now: www.joinhoney.com/ref/monzq24
Join me on Instagram: / autoauctionrebuilds
Follow me on Twitter: / arebuilds
#Chevy #454 #BBC - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Randy,
You need to slow down a bit. Your truck is not junk, youre just out of your comfort zone with it.
As a GM tech from that era I can tell you a few things. Hydroboost is an excellent system. Only has issues with the accumulator if you only have 1 pedal pump before losing assist. Easy to fix if needed. As far as the driveability, Im not surprised the aftermarket rebuilt unit is goofed up. I would put the old unit back on if the throttle shaft is good and just change the bad injector.
Otherwise you could screw around with this one for quite a bit. See if it idles on carb spray. If so you have either a vacuum leak or the injectors are not correct for your application. There should be an 8 digit number stamped on the old TBI to ID it just like a carburator number did in the day.
You may need to reset the minimum air bypass for proper minimum idle speed but it shouldnt effect on road running. I think you have the wrong (or bad) injectors in the reman tbi. Rock auto has complete TBI assembly listed for $280.00. They also have AC Delco injectors separately.
Any recommendation on the tbi injector wires mine got fried and I'm wondering if rewiring it is smart or getting a new tbi unit because the injector is leaky also may be better
has a vaccum leak is why its stalling i can hear it from here. Check base plate gasket, egr valve, intake gasket ect. propane enrichment works good or smoke test
I’m watching the video yelling at the screen the he has a vacuum leak and lo and behold, first comment I read...... LOL!
with the air cleaner off it will sound like a vacuum leak just from the air rushing into the IAC port and the holes in the throttle blades. My thought is he ordered the wrong throttle body all other TBI were ~13psi of fuel pressure however 94-95 454 TBI were 30PSI
@@davidbuck9977 I have the same engine. 1995 GMC 454. Runs good, idles high 1000+ RPMs. I'll be swapping in a new IAC valve tomorrow. If that doesn't bring it down to 500-750, it will need to have TBI service.
I suspect that is not the problem. Watch the throttle link as it's spluttering, a vacuum leak will become less of an issue as the engine revs. It won't rev. I suspect fuel starvation, possible fuel pump/system problem. I also question Randy's logic that a short circuit in the wires caused a fuel injector to short, after all if there was a short in the wire the current wouldn't even make it to the injectors: logic fail! A distinct possibility if there was a short circuit in the wires is computer driver damage...
I agree with you it is a vacuum leak or the vacuum ports are not right for the engine.
it does not matter whether the truck is a good buy or not. . .its whether the content is good. . . .and it is. So we learn about throttle bodies and diagnosing them. That's fantastic. Actually. . .the worse deals you do. . .the better the content for us. Best channel on TH-cam.
I say keep the truck. It can't be a big issue to get it fixed. It will do the job and you can focus on making that money back.
Leave it outside the shop, hopefully it will get stolen.
That's hilarious, he needs a new line of work preferably non mechanical.
Don't forget to leave the keys in it.
Even if the keys are in the truck they won't steal it. It don't run. Unless they tow it to scrap metal
@@frankm6601 I'll second that...LOl...
At least it isn’t an 87 first year of tbi oddball because it’s the last year for square body on the pickups it did carry on to 91 on crew cab and suburban
Dude you are bleeding money from way too many holes!
yea ive already told him that,,,,
Great video Randy! Hope your doing well, and keep making such great videos!
The good old Crocodile Dundee brown leather jacket. The ultimate service uniform for a certified tech replacing a "dad gum thing", and dang small O rings. (Sorry Randy, trying to add a little levity to a stressful situation). Please keep plugging!
Hope you get it working, nothing feels worse then getting screwed, in the end I am sure it will work out. Stay safe.
Than*
Buying used vehicles can be a crap shoot, Only so much you can look at
Such a good running comment on “How To”, very informative. It’s good that you talked it through for those that did not know. It just happened the way it did with the vacuum leaks. Still an easy fix, video well done Randy.
I own one of these. K2500 Sub. You probably need a MAP sensor. And you need a fuel pump every 80K miles. Fuel filter every 10K to 20K miles. I've changed the entire fuel system and entire ignition system and it runs like a beast. I used the fuel pump assy from the '96 Vortec, a direct fit with better flow. Also check that your Oil Pressure sender isn't blown. Also make sure the set-timing connector is not corroded.
Those are all small problems..
When you put it all together it gets big...
But on their own..there small.
Adresse it one at a time..
It will be a great truck.
My 88 454 TBI wire to the injector broke once while putting on the air cleaner. I carefully set it back on the injector with no glue and it runs fine!
your a good dude, with a good heart. people make mistakes, but that is how you learn. Unfortunately you have been hit with a ton recently, but I guarantee you will not do them again anytime soon. I will keep you in my prayers.
Sounds like a vacuum leak and the issue with the headlights is the multifunction switch
Ruben Camacho I wonder if he transferred the cap from the capped off port on the old tbi unit.
You already invested the money in it, why lose money to flip it when you can just finish it and use it. Make it YOUR truck and do all the little things to personalize it to your liking and then enjoy it. We have all had that moment when we impulse buy, make the most of it and fix it. I guarantee once you figure out the true issue and get it running good, you will love it.
The one question I have to ask is, why he paid so much money for such an old truck? that truck worth the most &650
shane mc good point, but I have paid up for something I wanted as well. I look at it like this, time and money will make that truck exactly like he wants it. Just got to want to make it happen
I feel for you ..... Last year, I bought a used $6,500 car and got a great deal on it at $3,600. Since then, I have put over $5,500 into it. It is great to drive and I'm glad because I have to keep it to drive now that I am this far upside down.
Keep up Randy with the good work and I really liked all these trucks and cars that didn’t had so much of good deals but it’s always nice to see them everyone makes good and bad decisions that’s life going right
Had the hydroboost on my truck and loved it, wait until your loaded and you will see how well it all works.
My first two cars were 1979 Lincoln Continentals - they had hydroboost on the brakes. Never had any issues with the system on either. Kind of gave the brake pedal a nice smooth feel compared to the vacuum boosted cars I knew at the time.
Hello from Melbourne Beach Florida 🌴 I s-it caned that nonsense on my 88 GMC dually &new Edlebrock. Runs great!
You are an open and genuine guy Randy. Respect from the other side of the Pond mate.
Now if you pinched those wires and they are driven by an ECU of some sort then its quite possible either a sensor is burned out or the ECU needs resetting. Certainly worth checking the fault codes if you have the right connector and clearing them. The fact it won't idle points me in this direction as a point from which to start. I am not sure pinching those wires burns out the actual injectors rather the sensors further back in the system after all you now have new ones in and they are not firing (or have no fuel feed of course). Also check those wires to the two connectors on the side and see where they go or what happens if you disconnect them? And if you find some wiring / ECU / sensor faults then use the original and try and get a refund on the new one.
Good luck mate ... Best of ...
on our next episode of Auto Auction Rebuilts i bought a 3500 dually diesel for 2200$ on marketplace and the white 3500 454 tbi is for sale!! just pulling your chaines Randy ...maybe look at body ground sometimes they get rotten, keep up the good work and hope you get it fix!
Hey Randy don't lose much sleep over that truck I've been a mechanic from 1980 till now that tbi units are pain first thing I'd look at is to see if you have a vacuum leaks on the unit and the lines on the head lights just replace the headlight switch the breaker unit in it getting weak buddy keep you head up your doing fine
It's not bad luck you keep having man, it's incompetence.
Randy don’t give up. You’ve been in a slump for a few weeks but I’m sure you’re about ready to start a winning streak.
My dad has a 99 K2500 Suburban with the hydro boost system. It's got multiport injection and OBD2 on its 454.😁
They used different size injectors for 94 and 95 because the fuel pressure was increased from 13 psi to 30 psi.
Got it!! Torque specs a “little over snug” lmao that was funny
You really need to grab a factory service manual set (physical or digital) for this truck off eBay. Then you will find clarity in the darkness of pre OBD2 diagnostics, as well as the other systems in your truck. Strangers on the internet will never replace the very important information contained in the FSM set. I think you can do this, you just need the right information💯
1. change the MAP sensor. My '88 G20 ran like a dog when I got it, even after changing the O2 sensor that was broken in half that I discovered on the way home from buying it. I swapped that sensor out with one off the '91 and it solved the problem. It wasn't giving me any codes, it just didn't want to run.
2. Did you check for codes regardless of any CEL indication?
3. Check fuel pressure, consider a fuel filter, they're not expensive. Pressure should be around 14.
4. Consider downloading an OBD-1 specific software program such as WinALDL and making or buying the cable to use to connect to the truck. WinALDL will run on a fairly old laptop (the one I bought Saturday for $35 is more than enough) and will give you a lot more data than just codes.
A good video with a diagnostic program, going through all that for OBD-1, should generate views and thus income and make up for some of the loss on it.
Which at this point is how you need to look at this truck. How can you generate three or four grand worth of content from it?
A TBI is normally stupid reliable because it's a simple system. Whatever is wrong is probably also simple. It's just a matter of diagnosing it.
This stuff happens to all of us, the first 2002 van I bought I thought I did okay on at $650. Four days later it won't start, then starts but stalls in gear, gauges going up and down acting crazy. Turned out to have a hole corroded in the computer case and when it rained after I got it home it got water in it. I had no means to fix that, so $1200 later at a garage we got that fixed. And then the garage F'ed me by not even looking at the power steering pump, only to bang me on a little leak for the state inspection. But they did give me some free wiper blades. Anyways, it's not the end of the world.
Also, if you didn't already, check those wires to the injectors, put some tape on them.
Fix it & keep it. For work only; this is not a vehicle to just daily; it's for towing, getting big heavy stuff, etc. Any one of the trucks you have purchased on this channel would be adequate for this purpose. BTW, when the dually was running, sounded awfully lot like a vacuum leak, so maybe do the old squirt soapy water trick around the base & ports to see if you're leaking anywhere.
Thank you...get crazy with the cheez whiz... now that Beck song is stuck in my head. Great video Randy
I got that too! "I'm a loser baby so why don't you kill me"!
@@thetruthwillout3347 at least it's a good song lol
Randy, they put the hydra booster system on diesel equipped trucks ( you said it was a 6.5l diesel before) as a diesel does not have any vacuum to run a normal brake power booster unit. Diesel engines usually add a vacuum pump to run small items, but can't run larger demanding vacuum boost units.
Poor Randy. . . . it's like watching a daytime Soap Opera. . . .!! :-(
Yeah, such is life Randy. Maybe you can find the engine # and trace what year it is. All I can say is take it what one step at a time and hope for the best. Thanks for sharing.
Don't worry about what people are saying. You are putting out good content. Keep it up!!!!!!
Keep the truck at this point man just think about as a great video content for the channel. Get the best out of the worst. We learn from our mistakes but make the best out of it 😉👍
Oh and headlights... dimmer switch or relay over heating and tripping?
Call Identifix hotline. They have ASE certified mechanics specifically for each (domestic, Asian and European ) and specialist within those. I use it all the time and it helps pinpoint the problem instead of throwing parts at it. The first call is only $39 if you have to call back it’s $20 something , 3rd call is roughly $10 and the phone calls thereafter are free for the same issue. They will give me a punch list of what to look for/ check out and I can usually pinpoint it with the first call. Well worth the Money. You don’t want to try and figure out these problem child’s on your own and throwing parts at it sure gets expensive. It’s a cheap education and gets you onto the next project. Been a sub since the Uber days and like your what your doing. Best of luck Randy
Keep your head up you will figure it out have faith
Randy, after messing up and overpaying for this truck. You should run this truck as long as possible. You already lost money when you overpaid. Be more careful in the future so you don't do the same mistake. Keep up the builds! :)
When dealing with an engine swap I would look for loose or disconnected ground wires. When doing an idle relearn always turn on as many electrical loads as possible. The block should be stamped by the water pump with letters and numbers that tell what year it is. I would check the headlight switch and especially the connector and also the fuse box for signs of overheating or corrosion.
ya .. way better than my ideas
You'll get thru this brother don't worry.. stay focused on the positive man forget the negativity and the crap people talk screw them
I had the same issue on a 95 G20 van with what looks to be same throttle body. It sat for a year with little fuel in it and there is a small rubber hose on the fuel pump that if left out of fuel for a while will crack and it is like trying to drink through a split straw. 1.00 worth of new hose fixed the issue. To test you want to make sure you have proper fuel pressure. T in a gauge on your supply line and make sure you have proper pressure to the TBI. From memory it was like only 12 psi and I only had 5 . Hope this helps!!
I sure hope you get that truck sorted soon Randy! 👍I really love those old duallies.👍 Overpaying for it...perhaps... & some won’t admit it... but we’ve all done it before 🤣🤯 KEEP it & get it sorted... don’t go buying another one & chase more problems; you’ll probably never get your 💰 back out of it anyways. As far as the idle goes... maybe it’s just me (& as you know me, you’re more ‘mechanically’ inclined than me.. I’m more of a ‘body’ guy) but I thought I heard a vacuum leak on that new unit?? Good luck! 🍀👍
Thanks Randy for your content but you definitely got your head crack open.
Hydro boost is better than the vacuum assist! DO NOT REMOVE IT!
Glad to hear you came to your senses about the purchase of the truck! OK, we told you so! Now lets get it fixed! RETURN THE DEFECTIVE $550 TBI unit and get your money back! Just get the rebuilt injectors on your old one yourself! Also check the ECU! The computers on these truck work very quick normally!
Replace the headlight switch! It is common they go bad!
DUMP IT!
Hey brother quick question I am doing a fuel pressure regulator replacement and kinda sorta got ahold of the screw that holds the tension spring for fuel pressure how loose or tight does it need to be? I also have a 454 7.4 BBC
I had a similar problem with an 84 Eldorado that has a similar throttle body FI setup. I pinched one of the fuel injector wires and it blew a fuse for one of the injectors. On my car, there were 2 3 amp fuses under the dash. One for each injector. I replaced the blown fuse and all was fixed. You should be able to look at each injector while its idling and be able to see the fuel spraying into the throttle body. I hope this helps you.
My name is Steve I'm using my wife's account I've been a mechanic for almost 20 years and I've worked on several of those trucks with simular issues you need to have someone start the truck while you watch the injectors spray see if they are both working hold it at a fast idle and see if one stops spraying these trucks are known to have computer issues when it comes to the injectors what happens is one injector will stop working all together or work intermittently the remedy is to replace the computer it is very easy to replace it's on the passenger side behind the glove box or under the passenger side dashboard if I remember correctly it's been about 5 years since I changed one I would go to the junk yard and get a used one it can come out of a bunch of different vehicles as long as it's throttle body injected like yours I've taken computers out of a v6 s10 and put it in a full size v8 truck and it worked fine I'm sure the junk yard is littered with them I actually have one in my garage but I'm in pennsylvania so that won't help but if I was closer I would give it to you if you have any questions ask me I'm sure you can get it running and it's not gonna be a big issue
What year and make vehicle did that computer come out of? Still have it? Want to sell it?
I have a 1994 Winnebago with a 454, It would idle rough and almost die when put in gear. I changed the temp sensor since plugs, cap, wires were recently done before I purchased it and the issue went away for a little bit then came back. It would idle with a slight tapping, then almost die, then roar back sounding smooth with all the power. I changed the TPS sensor since the symptoms are the same but no change so was about to change EGR. Anyhow I remember this comment and had to go back and find it, sure enough only one injector is spraying, I remember seeing them both spray before so it's intermittent. I thought it was bad fuel at first but that didn't pan out. Looking for a new computer now, thanks for your help!!! It seems like this has boggled so many others, this info is gold...and the intermittent part just adds confusion so thank you so much
I have had similar problems with my Crossfire injection Corvette,very similar set up ,try cleaning past the throttle body into the manifold as far as you can with carb cleaner it always helps mind,I use a 3/8 flexible tube with a rag taped to it to clean deep down.........what happens if the carbon doesn't allow the gas to flow smoothly,GOOD LUCK.........I would try the old throttle body with the new injectors also......
Sorry man, thanks for sharing your struggle. Most of us have been there, done that.
Randy , their should be a engine number stamped on the block that would have a date code ,I think its on the block just below the left cylender head facing the front of the engine .
I have seen those HYDRA BOOST systems too many times. Even the older CHEVROLET/GMC Class C motorhomes have it. MAINLY used on the DIESEL system.
I have the hydro boost brakes on my 04 Suburban with the 6.0
Used on vehicles that usually will not have a lot of intake manifold vacuum such as trucks that are 3/4 ton and up.
Nice tutorial Randy!
I had a Hydro boost brake system on my old detroit diesel. It was great. Worth rebuilding one if you have to.
My 81 1-ton has hydro boost it’s great the one tons had them because of the big breaks
2inch bore 454 have there own injector make sure you didnt get a small block unit
Maybe you should call Westen Champlin. And see hard it would be to put a diesel engine back in it
The Detroits were junk too
@@11094DEREK I didn't say put that one in I was thinking more like Cummins
@@travisburch6970 Smart man
Keep on trucking!
Fix It, Keep It, and Move On!!!!!
I love the hydraboost system. Its very compact and easy to understand. And anytime anything goes wrong you know what it is because you lose both power steering and brakes. Its also pretty reliable. But my biggest like is that its compact.
did you check the pressure of this fuel pump? those injectors like plenty of pressure, min 55 to 57, it seems no gas enough, how is driving it?
Poor Randy! Dang it! Good luck!🍀
Both tbi unit have the air horn milled&the injector spacer can't tell if bores have been honed they changed the screw heads to button top
Randy , I replaced my injectors on my 95 . Then I had a professional mechanic flash the computer with his 5000.00 tool . It ran like new after that.
Have you tried replacing fuel line filter under truck that will cause the problem you are having
My 1982 C30 had a hydro Boost setup, had nice brakes
Randy, for your headlights, check the ground wires under the hood, and tighten the ground bolts. Had the same problem with my truck. I'm not talking about the big ground wires. I'm talking about small ground wires that are about 18 awg, and are located near the front radiator support. Cost me over $2k to fix that intermittent problem. It's an old GM mechanic that finally found the problem.
Check timing, also for vacume leaks....? Idle speed ?
My 1975 Lincoln town coupe has hydra boost . It provides extra braking power on heavy applications where a standard brake booster wont cut it.
Randy, first of all I've been where your at and it sucks. I chased a really similar problem for a month. When an old drag racer l knew told me to check the fuel supply line between the tank and the steel line going forward. I had replaced the carb, the cam, the distribution, Coil,plug wires, cap, rotor and begged GOD to make it run right. I put 3" of fuel hose for a buck and it ran like a top. I nearly burned it l was so pissed. The other deal like yours turned out to be a grind problem. Like your truck someone had changed the motor and decided all the ground wires weren't needed so they just hooked up a couple. 12 volt hates lack of grounds. Your truck is new enough to be highly electrical sensitive. I finally had an auto electric guy look at my problem on the truck, he spent fifteen minutes on it reconnected the grounds Cooter didn't need and bingo my truck ran great. Best $75. I every spent. Everyone telling you to keep the truck is right. That is a mega bad ass truck. I've owned a few. If you fix it you can drive your money out of it. Run like a deer from that old diesel. I ate that turd once real hard. Once that truck runs right you will love it. My race car partner bought one l built a Holley 650 mechanical secondary for. Went from 10MPG TO 16MPG and ran like a champ. Keep the truck. You don't need to bleed any more money right now. It's a great truck.
my new favorite trainwreck channel
Thanks for the honesty. Win some. Lose some. I can relate. Move on, dude!
the Beck reference was great!! Get crazy with the cheese wiz!!!
Randy, who cares if the truck is a mistake? Your money you vice. Move on, fix it and sell it or keep it. Good content as always.
I am working on a very similar TBI issue with a 1990 Chevy K3500 Extended Cab 4x4 Dually with an 8 foot bed that I purchased for $5,000 that only had 34,000 original miles on it. I have had to replace everything from the fuel tank all the way up to the TBI so far, but when a friend replaced the TBI sensor, he ended up breaking the bold off in the TBI so we had to temporarily modify it to work. I am looking for a replacement TBI now and would like to do a complete swap like you did if I can find a full TBI setup for it. Most of the idling issue has been taken care of now, but I can tell the timing of the injectors is not quite right, so hopefully if I swap the whole thing out that will take care of that issue once and for all.
Did you burn out the ecm when you shorted out the injector?
Randy I just installed the exact same TBI from AutoLine on my 95 K2500 Suburban and now I have the exact same problem as you did on your 3500. Did you ever get this figured out??????
I would look at the coolant temp sensor for the ecm. It's a two wire sensor with a yellow and black wire. They were notorious for failures. It will -40 and still run but will stall...
the ECT sensor on TBI systems control everything...it controls timing,fuel control,idle control......FYI on that system the base timing is for 400RPM and less so adjusting timing does nothing for you...the ECU takes over timing control at over 400 rpm
@@mikefloyd6732 Agree. The cooling temp sender at the front of the intake manifold will also incl. (2) wires mounted to a grounding bracket (curved) to the T stat. As for idle on my 94 TBI in my Fleetwood RV the idle RPM is roughly 700-750. Also if the ICM is not working the injectors will not either. But the fact that you can get it to run when working the throttle suggests they are working. Until you let it idle then it dies. I say it's either the cooling temp sender or ECM issue.
hello i’m having trouble finding a throttle body. did you say auto find canada? it’s not showing up for me. appreciate any help thanks
Was it the tps sensor my 305 tbi did the same I had to buy 4 tps sensors new until I found one that was made right
What year is that engine and ECM? Since it was a diesel before, I was wondering
If you pinched a wire to the injector.. surely the damage would be at the signal source? Not the injector but the ECU?
Had a 96 2500 with the 6.5 turbo diesel almost 400k ran good just a gutless wonder wanted to do a Cummins swap but sold it wasn't worth it body was trash but looking for another to do the 5.9 swap good luck
And Silverado wasn;t good enough for towing, that You needed this one???
went from bad to worse need a ford
@@firstonraceday7865 bruh
@@firstonraceday7865 ford is a trash can
@@Unknown-vm8ri compared to what your broke down dodge
@@firstonraceday7865 yet my dodge is a 2.7l with 234k
Maybe the pinched wire has messed something electrical up? Head light switch usually has a circuit breaker in it that causes the on and off as it over heats and cools the weak circuit breaker.
never use motor oil on any rubber it will cause it to swell and eventually fail,they have special non-petroleum silicone for that,just watching out for you Randy
honestly respect him but he really hasn't a clue what hes doing, you cant go from replacing bumpers and headlights straight to engine work, it shows that he doesn't know his stuff cus he cant even diagnose a vacuum leak.
Silicone grease will work the best...no mineral oils of any kind should see rubber parts unless they are designed for it.
I've never seen motor oil fatally destroy rubber like acetone, air, or uv does
@Auto Auction Rebuilds My moms 2013 Chevy Suburban 2500 Has the hydro boost and it gets rid of the brake booster on the back of the master cylinder
Did you fix this truck, I have same problem with GMC 3500 93 7.4 454 if you fixed tell me how??
They hydra-boost, was literally something that they used on Wheeler Dealers to add power steering to a 71 c/10. Brand new episode that aired yesterday
Hydro boost is a upgrade 👍🏼. When new the iac (idle air control) needs adjusting. I forget the procedure. But I’ve been there. Other than that. May have shorted the computer out. Both easy cheap fixes.
Hydroboost works well. Hope it doesn't fail , high dollar part and a pain to change out.
Good luck finding that washer fluid bottle. If you do let me know because I can't find one anywhere.
Like I commented before on first video of this truck, it's common to see hydro boost on diesel trucks like this truck was, and it's easier to keep the hydro boost system and not brake while turning.
If I remember right there is an adjustment screw for the idle even though it have that idle control there should be an adjustment screw
Hydro-boost is VERY common on larger vehicles such as 3/4 ton trucks and up. It gives you a boost to your brakes that normal vacuum brakes cannot. It is definitely a great invention when you understand what it does and how well it performs over the stock vacuum design. If you have bad brakes for whatever reason, it isn't because it has hydro-boost on it. I should also mention, you may have shorted out the "injector driver(s)" in the ECU if you shorted the wiring out by pinching them with the air cleaner. They send a signal from the ECU to the individual drivers at the throttle body. When this happens it may only be running on one of the two injectors. Take a look when you start it up, you should be able to put a NOID light on the connections for the driver that will tell you if the wiring is receiving a signal from the ECU to open/close as needed. You should also see a cone shaped fan spray from the injector when its firing fuel.
I have a 454 c3500 91. I bought it for a cheap price. I bought it because I had a really bad drug addiction and was trying to get sober on my own. 2015 I started my project and I still work on my truck on the weekends. Your truck ain’t junk, these trucks are pure power and torque if you take the time to understand them. You have to read, watch videos and ask questions when working on a vehicle. I’ve learned rock auto has the best parts and the cheapest. I’ve rebuilt the entire truck and bored it.60 over.
You need the ECU to learn the throttle position sender, sometimes you can drive it while it learns, and sometimes you turn ignition on (not running) and slowly fully cycle the throttle 5 times, then start it up and see if that helped.