I learned if the radiator is cooling too much (fluid in the radiator too long) and the engine overheats, it is due to low coolant flow. If thermostat is working correctly, next place to check is oil coolers. Lots easier and cheaper than pulling the radiator to have it flushed/checked. Voice of expensive experience. Check oil cooler. Dirty creek water, stop leak, mud, vegetation all have been found clogging up oil coolers. Good video Mr. Anderson.
It is interesting to see how things are done differently in different places. I Bahrain, they build the houses, then add the streets later. It's fun to drive down a dirt track with brand new houses on each side, dodging manhole covers in the road that are 6" - 12" inches high.
Here I always see them do the whole base to finish grade and pitch. Then the slip form curb guys come in and out the curb in with about a 6” inset projection the thickness of the asphalt. Then the asphalt guys come in and lay the street to the curb compacting to the projection thickness. This means all driveway turnouts also have to be put in at the same time.
I do it just like you explained it. Grade it out with the grader. Usually we are putting black dirt on the back side of our curb, so I will leave the windrows of extra material in the middle of the road. Then once the curb is cured, blade the extra material from the middle back to the curb to build it up to asphalt grade.
Have no idea what ribbon curb is. I only worked with curb and gutter. Sub grade first, then utilities under the street w/services, then curb and gutter, then road base and asphalt. The curb and gutter guys took care of their own grade work. Utilities outside of the curb and gutter were done after it was poured. Back of curb became the benchmark. It also had no re-bar and was fragile when green. A couple of dummies with an asphalt lute and a small roller saves a lot of grief.
Hey Jeff, sometime when you aren’t so busy, you should do a video on road building for those of us who don’t know about hubs and feathers etc. I’m a retired engineer, but know about as much about road building and grading as you probably do about electronics. I find it fascinating how you transform the landscape especially without high tech tools like GPS. As for the curb detail, I’ll bet money the designer never gave a moments thought as to HOW to build it. They just make drawings. Cartoons is what I used to call them, when the guys working for me would draw things that look great but had absolutely no idea how to build it.
That’s how we do it all the time. Grader width down each side where the curbs go, mostly for compaction reasons but also efficiency. Just top off the road structure using crush instead of pitrun after the curbs are in.
D9G heating issue = Dowtherm 209 Barber Green made a berm paver that would pick up material then you could set it like a paver to lay your 4" Sub. We use to use a truck gate spreader to do the same although a bit sloppier
I would finish the ditch first. Put your rock in the ditch like you said .Now that 6' section that the curb guys want is just going to be part of the road . That is just a flat surface to run on . I would cover the subgrade with pitrun and the 3/4 minus , making sure to leave it low so you have room for the extra rock the curb machine will generate . The curb machine guys like 1 tenth high , but I always went for 1.25-1.35 to make sure you don't have a blow , that's where there is not enough rock for the curb machine to trim and mud blows out. You will have to leave the curb alone 3-4 days. It looks like the road gets rock and 2.5 " of asphalt , so after it is paved you can roll the rock up to the back of the curb and it should be supported well enough so not to break it , Just do the math and leave enough rock behind the curb so you can just roll it up to the curb with the blade. Now depending on the inspector you are going to have to pound on that curb rock to 95 % density. They get a little pissy sometimes if not. Good luck , I'm sure we will see the results.
I used to see what we called 'pin curb', which is very similar to what you have there. But an 18" to 24" #5 rebar was driven down thru the curb at some centers (I don't remember for sure, but maybe 8' o.c.) while it was still soft. And don't forget the expansion joints. Maybe that was the intent here and somebody forgot to show the vertical bar in the cross section. It may be mentioned in the plan spec's.
Jeff, I've been in the Ready mix business for 35 yrs now. Here in Nevada they just use base under the cubs, But normally they deliver it in bellies just like you said, then roll it in to the cut, and compact it with a roller. You will have a little waste but it's not that bad.Hell i've seen the curb machine cut 4" of it out because someone can't read a laxer. Good luck buddy....I'll be watching you!! LOL.
Honestly I worked fora curb company back in 96 ..the first yr was 70000 ft the next yr was 270000…get the 339 an a good wrist bucket..an get after it mang..js
Our guys run a sting line ,and put the 3/4 in with a grader ,I ain't shure how they figger it but it works out fine when they use a machine to put the curbs in
Lay down the extra base however wide your equipment can down the edges, then cut it back to 6' wide? Only economical, one-shot, way of doing it I can think of is to lay it down with an asphalt layer set to 6' wide.
Would be ideal to lay down a 8" thick base course of pit run the full 20+ feet wide then prep the 6' wide aggregate base on that. Then after the curbing is poured you could lay down another lift of pit run 4" thick to get the full 12" depth on the 24' of road. Then follow with your 4" of crushed base, compacting carefully along the curb. Doing a 4" lift with pit run though could prove difficult. Alternative would be to do the full 12" depth pit run then blading the 4" off for base and windowing that material to use behind the curb. I'm sure you'll figure it out though
i don't do dirt work like you jeff but how about using the belly dumps set gates to a width you want and have them set your base for that curb on both sides . i think that would work for you
Must be nice to be working with mostly virgin soil. When i do rebuilds on streets and alleys at work its always backfill material. Energy company comes and lowers the house services and fills the bell holes with crusher dust and when it rains all that water goes into the cuts. I'd like to try doing a new development.
Shouldering box we would use dump trucks i can't remember the name we would barrow it from Brannon sand and gravel Denver and was on the front of a 966 cat
I know how I handled those curbs when the showed up here. It's easier for the paving companies but not for the clod kickers. I retired screw em. I got to use the GPS stuff just long enough to see how much it would help. Wave of the future. Get off,, Jump on or get left behind 🤔.
@@Jpaydirt There's to be 6'(?) of "gravel" between the asphalt and the floating ribbon curb? As in a permeable parking lane thingy? It snow's there, correct? Stuff freezes, plows come by and before Tax Day that "curb" really will look like the cut stone ones they like to use out east but chunked-out, heaving, and pushed back other than the ones that aren't pushed back even as they'll be deposited in the closest/next driveway. Did an architect of some flavor dream-up this urban planning olde-town look and somehow it made it past the DPW/Roads civil engineer or am I truly confused? That's even more asinine than stamped concrete and corner bump-outs. Shake my ever-loving head!!!!!!
I remember cherry bomb's. A lot a guys put them on cars so they would sound like they had power in there engines. I was not one of them though. I liked them quiet. Excellent video Jeff.
Here's my 2 cents. Putting the material behind the curb and laying down 8" of pit run of course is a no brainer to start. Next step is to look at cost, iF cost of the aggregate base is not an issue then of course lay it down to whatever makes it fast and easy. If overrun on the aggregate base is as issue, then you would need to layout the edges of where the Aggregate base needs to go after the pit run is fine graded for the curb . I like to use lime to do this, then heal the pit run over to those lines to create a choker. Its OK of the choker is not perfect. Tighten up the gates slightly on the bottom dump gates to get the optimal amount of aggregate base. It's a lot more grade checking but that's the way we would do it. Now if your 14 had GPS, then it's ridiculously easy. I run an 88' 14G with 3D Trimble GPS and the increased productivity is amazing.
Another option on spreading the Agg Base is forget about building the pitrun chokers as i said above, and just trim back the Agg base to achieve the 6 foot width as you move along and frog leap the material ahead. . A flow gate on the blade helps with this narrow stuff.
@@Jpaydirt looks like some of the people out there would like to see some number crunching so here we go... Let's say the additional cost for agg base is 5.00/ton. You have to subtract the pit run cost because you would need to buy that anyways (maybe not behind the curb but will go with this for now) I don't know how long your job is but I'll use 4000LF. You want to go 10 feet wide instead of 6 feet so that's an extra 4 feet x 4000LF = 16,000SF. I use a formula (SF x .006 x Inches thick = Compacted Class 2 Base in Tons) and that gets me pretty dam close every time. That formula will give you the tonnage compacted to a 95%. So 16,000SF x .006 x 6in thick = 576 Tons. Bottoms dumps were getting 25tons per load so 576/25 = 23 extra loads to go 4 feet wider. 576 Tons x 5.00/ton = $2,880 to do the extra 4 feet wide. You would then look at all variables to make the best decision. BONUS tip: SF x.0065 x Inches Thick = Tons of hot mix Asphalt compacted to 95%. Anyone else got some good formulas? Hope the viewers enjoy. -Padman
It's a good thing you guys don't have to plow snow against a square edge curb. It doesn't last long with a plow beating against it. The plows don't fare well either. I would consider hiring an asphalt paver to run the 6' of pit run. You can set the width and thickness and flatten it with the screed. There, I shot my mouth off and damned proud of it.
👍👌 AWESOME VIDEO, & MUSIC! BEAUTIFUL HEAVY HAULER / 🤭TRUCK / TRAILER / JEEPS / ETC , 🤑 🤑 🤑 WHAT I COULD DO WITH JUST THE MONEY THE PERMITS COST TO MOVE THAT MACHINE TO IDAHO !!!!🤭💪 ??? What might the GVW on that rig be rolling into the driveway in Blackfoot, MAYBE around 185,000 LBS ???? 🤔 😱 ALWAYS ANXIOUS TO OPEN YOUR VIDEO AND ENJOY THE ACTION IN YOUR WORLD!!! THANKS JEFF 🙏 😍😍😍😍😍
Jeff all the other dirt guys on You Tube seem to get demo equip. from the big companies why don't you ask Cat to lend you a D 6 or a D 8 to do an evaluation on their product for a few months ?
We don’t use pit run for base in southern NM. We use engineered base coarse, including shoulders. I’ll try to take a pic of a county road they just finished near me. They installed a narrow ribbon which basically saves the edge of blacktop.
I learned if the radiator is cooling too much (fluid in the radiator too long) and the engine overheats, it is due to low coolant flow. If thermostat is working correctly, next place to check is oil coolers. Lots easier and cheaper than pulling the radiator to have it flushed/checked. Voice of expensive experience. Check oil cooler. Dirty creek water, stop leak, mud, vegetation all have been found clogging up oil coolers. Good video Mr. Anderson.
It is interesting to see how things are done differently in different places. I Bahrain, they build the houses, then add the streets later. It's fun to drive down a dirt track with brand new houses on each side, dodging manhole covers in the road that are 6" - 12" inches high.
Here I always see them do the whole base to finish grade and pitch. Then the slip form curb guys come in and out the curb in with about a 6” inset projection the thickness of the asphalt. Then the asphalt guys come in and lay the street to the curb compacting to the projection thickness. This means all driveway turnouts also have to be put in at the same time.
Nice watching that ol' pacman logoed elevated scraper. And nothing about a CAT D9H series!!!
I do it just like you explained it. Grade it out with the grader. Usually we are putting black dirt on the back side of our curb, so I will leave the windrows of extra material in the middle of the road. Then once the curb is cured, blade the extra material from the middle back to the curb to build it up to asphalt grade.
Okay thats good the hear, I was thinking this is the only way to do it fast
Have no idea what ribbon curb is. I only worked with curb and gutter. Sub grade first, then utilities under the street w/services, then curb and gutter, then road base and asphalt. The curb and gutter guys took care of their own grade work. Utilities outside of the curb and gutter were done after it was poured. Back of curb became the benchmark. It also had no re-bar and was fragile when green. A couple of dummies with an asphalt lute and a small roller saves a lot of grief.
Sunday is now a funday cause I get another Jeff Anderson Production Video! Thanks Mr. A.
The thing that I enjoy is the same feller that stakes the job is the Paddlewheel 👍 how often ya see that? Folks awesome vid Boss Man!
Always enjoy watching a pro at work, and you guys are pro's .Well done !
Hey Jeff, sometime when you aren’t so busy, you should do a video on road building for those of us who don’t know about hubs and feathers etc. I’m a retired engineer, but know about as much about road building and grading as you probably do about electronics. I find it fascinating how you transform the landscape especially without high tech tools like GPS.
As for the curb detail, I’ll bet money the designer never gave a moments thought as to HOW to build it.
They just make drawings. Cartoons is what I used to call them, when the guys working for me would draw things that look great but had absolutely no idea how to build it.
Agreed!
A guy told me in cal engineers can put anything on paper but we have to build it
That’s how we do it all the time. Grader width down each side where the curbs go, mostly for compaction reasons but also efficiency. Just top off the road structure using crush instead of pitrun after the curbs are in.
I think i see what's happening here.....SoCal Earthmoving are relocating to ldaho, right?
Cool barn find btw, don't let it go to a rat rodder.
D9G heating issue = Dowtherm 209 Barber Green made a berm paver that would pick up material then you could set it like a paver to lay your 4" Sub. We use to use a truck gate spreader to do the same although a bit sloppier
I would finish the ditch first. Put your rock in the ditch like you said .Now that 6' section that the curb guys want is just going to be part of the road . That is just a flat surface to run on . I would cover the subgrade with pitrun and the 3/4 minus , making sure to leave it low so you have room for the extra rock the curb machine will generate . The curb machine guys like 1 tenth high , but I always went for 1.25-1.35 to make sure you don't have a blow , that's where there is not enough rock for the curb machine to trim and mud blows out. You will have to leave the curb alone 3-4 days. It looks like the road gets rock and 2.5 " of asphalt , so after it is paved you can roll the rock up to the back of the curb and it should be supported well enough so not to break it , Just do the math and leave enough rock behind the curb so you can just roll it up to the curb with the blade. Now depending on the inspector you are going to have to pound on that curb rock to 95 % density. They get a little pissy sometimes if not. Good luck , I'm sure we will see the results.
I used to see what we called 'pin curb', which is very similar to what you have there. But an 18" to 24" #5 rebar was driven down thru the curb at some centers (I don't remember for sure, but maybe 8' o.c.) while it was still soft. And don't forget the expansion joints. Maybe that was the intent here and somebody forgot to show the vertical bar in the cross section. It may be mentioned in the plan spec's.
Jeff, I've been in the Ready mix business for 35 yrs now. Here in Nevada they just use base under the cubs, But normally they deliver it in bellies just like you said, then roll it in to the cut, and compact it with a roller. You will have a little waste but it's not that bad.Hell i've seen the curb machine cut 4" of it out because someone can't read a laxer. Good luck buddy....I'll be watching you!! LOL.
I was thinking you better fly out Frank n dig that curb line…it will be straight as a broken arrow..when done..c mon..haha
Honestly I worked fora curb company back in 96 ..the first yr was 70000 ft the next yr was 270000…get the 339 an a good wrist bucket..an get after it mang..js
Our guys run a sting line ,and put the 3/4 in with a grader ,I ain't shure how they figger it but it works out fine when they use a machine to put the curbs in
Lay down the extra base however wide your equipment can down the edges, then cut it back to 6' wide? Only economical, one-shot, way of doing it I can think of is to lay it down with an asphalt layer set to 6' wide.
Going to miss seeing the D9 been driving by it for a long time.
Put the gravel in deep how you need it on the back side then cut down the front where the curb is and you have the backside to grade almost
We always put it in wide like 8 to 10 ft and put it on grade they put the curb in and then cut it back out down to grade
There's a guy up here, Gerry, says the fan on his old 9 would blow more dirt off the top of the blade than most 8's could push. lol Keep smilin Jeff.
Is it possible to recap those scraper tires?I would imagine not on the drive wheels.
Would be ideal to lay down a 8" thick base course of pit run the full 20+ feet wide then prep the 6' wide aggregate base on that. Then after the curbing is poured you could lay down another lift of pit run 4" thick to get the full 12" depth on the 24' of road. Then follow with your 4" of crushed base, compacting carefully along the curb. Doing a 4" lift with pit run though could prove difficult. Alternative would be to do the full 12" depth pit run then blading the 4" off for base and windowing that material to use behind the curb. I'm sure you'll figure it out though
i don't do dirt work like you jeff but how about using the belly dumps set gates to a width you want and have them set your base for that curb on both sides . i think that would work for you
Must be nice to be working with mostly virgin soil. When i do rebuilds on streets and alleys at work its always backfill material. Energy company comes and lowers the house services and fills the bell holes with crusher dust and when it rains all that water goes into the cuts. I'd like to try doing a new development.
We always compacted with our scrapers.those big tts 24s were heavy. Great video
Time is money. I like your idea of laying down extra wide 3/4 crush.
I had a 1969 D100 about 25 years ago. The owners manual for it looked exactly like that one. Smudges and all.
At least now you can pull the d9 engine and rebuilt it right.
lets see how much money I have to spend on the H
@@Jpaydirt "We don't mind spend your money"...Said the politician.
Been a long while since I've seen a paddle wheel scraper working on a job. Great video Jeff 👌
a blau nox paver works great
y can set how wide you want it and depth
Shouldering box we would use dump trucks i can't remember the name we would barrow it from Brannon sand and gravel Denver and was on the front of a 966 cat
Another great video as always bro, some good drone footage too. Safe travels
I know how I handled those curbs when the showed up here. It's easier for the paving companies but not for the clod kickers. I retired screw em. I got to use the GPS stuff just long enough to see how much it would help. Wave of the future. Get off,, Jump on or get left behind 🤔.
Right on
New D9 arrive yet?
Tuesday about 11 am 9/14
Road building is way above my pay grade,I will keep watching though ,a lot of your subscribers have a lot of suggestions🤗😎🤗😎
You got a game playing fire that Road Grader use your Hawkeye let's get it
Hi Jeff how is it going?
Great! good night me sleeepy
Did John tell you what plugged up the cooler?
@@norcalray7182 he bought it in a state of unfinished repair and something in the cooling system was left open so leaves and whatnot got inside
What's the purpose of gravel on the outside of curb if there's no curb drain??
to support it and get this, the asphalt is only 12 wide
@@Jpaydirt and I thought the Civil guys were asked up here in Ohio 🤣🤣
@@Jpaydirt
There's to be 6'(?) of "gravel" between the asphalt and the floating ribbon curb? As in a permeable parking lane thingy? It snow's there, correct? Stuff freezes, plows come by and before Tax Day that "curb" really will look like the cut stone ones they like to use out east but chunked-out, heaving, and pushed back other than the ones that aren't pushed back even as they'll be deposited in the closest/next driveway.
Did an architect of some flavor dream-up this urban planning olde-town look and somehow it made it past the DPW/Roads civil engineer or am I truly confused? That's even more asinine than stamped concrete and corner bump-outs. Shake my ever-loving head!!!!!!
@@lt1nut from centerline; 12 feet of the black stuff then the 12' wide curb then 12' of compacted shoulder which would be crushed gravel
@@Jpaydirt Thanks, I'll have to watch that part again; for some reason I think that I need to understand this.
I remember cherry bomb's. A lot a guys put them on cars so they would sound like they had power in there engines. I was not one of them though. I liked them quiet. Excellent video Jeff.
Lay it down with a paving machine and roll it down to thickness.
He's not paving , it's a curb machine .
Have a nice day
Here's my 2 cents. Putting the material behind the curb and laying down 8" of pit run of course is a no brainer to start. Next step is to look at cost, iF cost of the aggregate base is not an issue then of course lay it down to whatever makes it fast and easy. If overrun on the aggregate base is as issue, then you would need to layout the edges of where the Aggregate base needs to go after the pit run is fine graded for the curb . I like to use lime to do this, then heal the pit run over to those lines to create a choker. Its OK of the choker is not perfect. Tighten up the gates slightly on the bottom dump gates to get the optimal amount of aggregate base.
It's a lot more grade checking but that's the way we would do it. Now if your 14 had GPS, then it's ridiculously easy. I run an 88' 14G with 3D Trimble GPS and the increased productivity is amazing.
Another option on spreading the Agg Base is forget about building the pitrun chokers as i said above, and just trim back the Agg base to achieve the 6 foot width as you move along and frog leap the material ahead. . A flow gate on the blade helps with this narrow stuff.
the crushed is only $7.25 a ton but it's even less than that to the contractor that has this job, as i'm a sub to him
@@Jpaydirt what's the pit run go for delivered?
I pay 2.35 a ton dumped in my truck
@@Jpaydirt looks like some of the people out there would like to see some number crunching so here we go...
Let's say the additional cost for agg base is 5.00/ton. You have to subtract the pit run cost because you would need to buy that anyways (maybe not behind the curb but will go with this for now) I don't know how long your job is but I'll use 4000LF. You want to go 10 feet wide instead of 6 feet so that's an extra 4 feet x 4000LF = 16,000SF. I use a formula (SF x .006 x Inches thick = Compacted Class 2 Base in Tons) and that gets me pretty dam close every time. That formula will give you the tonnage compacted to a 95%. So 16,000SF x .006 x 6in thick = 576 Tons. Bottoms dumps were getting 25tons per load so 576/25 = 23 extra loads to go 4 feet wider. 576 Tons x 5.00/ton = $2,880 to do the extra 4 feet wide. You would then look at all variables to make the best decision. BONUS tip: SF x.0065 x Inches Thick = Tons of hot mix Asphalt compacted to 95%. Anyone else got some good formulas? Hope the viewers enjoy. -Padman
Send that truck to Bryan in Kentucky! I hear he likes those 318 motors. 💪
How many houses i this sub division???
It's a good thing you guys don't have to plow snow against a square edge curb. It doesn't last long with a plow beating against it. The plows don't fare well either. I would consider hiring an asphalt paver to run the 6' of pit run. You can set the width and thickness and flatten it with the screed. There, I shot my mouth off and damned proud of it.
Are you worried about the KillDozer being jealous of the new gal?
👍👌 AWESOME VIDEO, & MUSIC! BEAUTIFUL HEAVY HAULER / 🤭TRUCK / TRAILER / JEEPS / ETC , 🤑 🤑 🤑 WHAT I COULD DO WITH JUST THE MONEY THE PERMITS COST TO MOVE THAT MACHINE TO IDAHO !!!!🤭💪 ??? What might the GVW on that rig be rolling into the driveway in Blackfoot, MAYBE around 185,000 LBS ???? 🤔 😱
ALWAYS ANXIOUS TO OPEN YOUR VIDEO AND ENJOY THE ACTION IN YOUR WORLD!!! THANKS JEFF 🙏 😍😍😍😍😍
Howdy Jeff!
👍🏻
I love John’s Autocars
Jeff all the other dirt guys on You Tube seem to get demo equip. from the big companies why don't you ask Cat to lend you a D 6 or a D 8 to do an evaluation on their product for a few months ?
Because nobody LENDS anything, you can rent if you want.
We don’t use pit run for base in southern NM. We use engineered base coarse, including shoulders. I’ll try to take a pic of a county road they just finished near me. They installed a narrow ribbon which basically saves the edge of blacktop.
I'm going to be talking about that in a video, if you have a one foot shoulder thats compacted why do you need a curb
Use yu 330,and belly,s
👍👍
Fuck that 3/4 stone just pour curb on the pit run
👋👋👋🇺🇸👀