IT'S YOUR TURN! Check out the Caswell kit here & *_THANK YOU to all my guys who have already ordered!_* Your results have been insane too! www.mxrevival.com/shop-tools
Acetone here acted as cleaner/degreaser. But you still need to etching it with muriatic acid/HCL to create rough surfaces(at microscopic level) so that the zinc particle adhere strongly the surface. I am telling this as my point of view as an ex electroplating operator in the big multinational japanese factory.
@@codyrhoades483 I am not sure about zinc plating durability bcoz I worked at Nickel electroplating. This kind of materials need to be rinse/ wipe after contact with corrosive materials. Salt water will always find its way to get below the plating surfaces if its not rinse.
Vapor blasting or dry blasting isn’t good enough? I haven’t checked in a microscope after sandblasting but for the naked eye, it looks ultra clean after blasting. Acid vs blasting; what’s best?
Very cool vid. An advice: The carbon fiber plates are not strong enough to hold the work of the frame, especially on landing jumps frame may brake with fatigue. I'd go back on steel ones.
wow... this is amazing! I've been inspired. I have an old Honda CT70 along with a '74 Yamaha 500 that I'll be restoring for the first time. Going to be doing this!!!!
Another home run Charles! I have the Caswell kit as well, I love the blue and yellow chromates. The blue matches the stock finish on most every Kawasaki I’ve ever done and adds another layer of protection. Highly recommend the yellow for things like swingarm axle brackets, brake pedal clevis, etc. Keep bringing these bikes back to life!
Thanks Nick! I think I've seen your incredible results on Instagram and really appreciate your order. I'm assuming this is the same Nick! I think the yellow chromate would be awesome on the Honda. Very OEM! I haven't tried the blue, but I've spent countless, and I do mean countless hours with the black on the yz300 and several customer engine fastener kits. I think that was my favorite and was fun being a part of bringing that into the dirt bike scene a few years ago.
@@mxrevival Other Nick! I'm the Nick with the KX250Fs who did the clear bedliner on the shocks that I Cerakote. (By the way, it doesn't hold up that well.) I've resorted to grip tape now!
Zinc by itself is not very durable, you need to use chromates after plating. If you look at any zinc plated (other than hot galvanized) hardware you can see a blue tint to them; that clear aka blue chromate. I also use their brightener solution, not sure if that was mentioned in the beginning.
Great tutorial and thank you. Only one suggestion... use regular white paper towels instead of the expensive blue shop towels. Regular paper towels do not fall apart from the brake parts cleaner like the blue shop towels do.
wow, amazing attention to detail, I’m in the dry ice cleaning business been doing for about two years I want to add a vapor honing equipment I noticed you have two blasting machines didn’t quite catch the manufacturer insight on the brand of equipment you use and your thoughts on who to buy from I’m in SoCal thank you so much I may have to send you my 2003 YZ 250 desert race bike !!
howdy! i’ve been using this kit for a while now, first used to video to dial in my setup. every time i pull a part out of the bath, it comes out dull silver, with some gold tinge here and there. i can polish them up, but i’ve not once taken a part out that looked as shiny as yours. any info? thanks!
Absolutely dude! Feel free to use the contact link on the website if you have any questions about it. otherwise, you can find it under “shop tools“. Thanks for watching, and for your support!
Awesome information my brother Charles. The carbon fiber headstays look incredible with the fresh bolts! 10 out of 10 bro! Take good care of yourself and your family. Cheers!
Another great video Charles. I love my Caswell kit. You did not mention putting blue or yellow chromate on the part. I assume you do that as well? I do not have a media blaster so I put my bolts in muriatic acid to make sure I get all the previous plating off. Thanks for sharing this video.
Heck, the absolutely best step-by-step, idiot-proof tutorial! I cannob be more grateful for that. Thank you! One question - are you using steel wire brush wheel for bolt? Aren't you afraid to damage the material? I'm trying to always use the brass wire brush on my angle grinder to get rid of rust and dirt
WOW!!! You seriously leveled that hardware up and now that you showed the polished bolts and the carbon head stays....well, I almost fell out of my damn chair!!! To say that looks amazing is a serious understatement!!! I am going to have to start selling plasma so I can get that plating kit!!!
I started doing this, but cheaper to buy new bolt, versus matl and labor. That bolt is a few bucks, now for big long engine mounting bolts that cost $10 to $20 or are no longer available, this may work. Also, you can vapor blast and then use crystal clear paint from eastwood. A thin coat will take torque from wrench for one time tightening…
Plating won’t fill pitting in any reasonable amount of time. I can think of a few ways you could do it in theory but all of them are ridiculously expensive and time consuming. Getting bolts hand made at a machine shop would cost less than a full restoration. When someone says it can’t be done, it really means “I don’t know how it can be done.” I’d be interested if you find a reasonable way.
100%! In fact, I've moved to vapor blasting *unless* you really need the super chrome look that the wheels provide at base-prep stage. Most of the hardware is hidden after all once installed, right? Thanks for watching 👌
Thank you! I'm familiar with chromates but not passivation. (Blue chromate, etc) I'll have to look into it & feel free to spoil other readers with more info if you can too 🙌
YES! I learned a new trick recently, go to the hardware store and get yourself some muriatic acid. Pour it into a bucket with a lid. You can dip your parts into that one by one on a little copper wire. It is insane, like piranhas attacking fresh meat. The zinc comes off in seconds. DO NOT BREATHE THE OFF-GASSING. I'm not sure which episode it was, but you can see me doing it in one of the 1989 Suzuki RM 250 videos. I think it's the very last one I've done. Back to the bucket, you want this so that you can throw the lid on it and store the muriatic acid because it only comes in a screw top gallon. Have fun, and again, do not breathe the off-gassing!!
Awesome video , one question you said you don’t use heat in your playing solution did you heat the first time when mixing ? Or you never heated ? About to set up my kit and just wondering as the guide says to use heat but your getting amazing results without it
Thanks! I have never used heat. I've plated in cold temps too. No issues so far. I am sure there's a reason for the heat that's to our benefit but it has been ok! All the luster comes from going overboard on the prep stages & that's been enough the last two or there years. You're going to have some serious fun 🔥
Thanks! Probably similar although some might like the slight difference and finish between one or the other better, than one or the other. I believe zinc has better corrosion resistance. Where nickel might get pushed off of a bolt by corrosion underneath it, zinc would remain the sacrificial coding that the corrosion “goes to” to attack instead. Even on a partially plated zinc bolt. For example
@@mxrevival great points! I notice the nickel plating often looks more like a chrome finish whereas the zinc often looks dull grey. In situations like your rebuild I think you made the right move as protection should come first, but damn you got a good shine out of that zinc 🤩 Great work 👏
I’ve never used a heater, not once. Cold temperatures haven’t had any adverse perfect either. 👍 warmest I’ve probably ever had the kit was 80° or so in the summer. But the temperature has always been ambient
When you do your regular amperage calculation for a bolt, you can also add multiple bolts to the plating batch IF the bolts you are adding are the same size as the first one. In this case, you would take your initial calculation, and simply multiply it by how many bolts or pieces of hardware are going in the tank. Example: let’s say a cylinder head bolt needs .2A of current during plating, and you have six of them total. .2A x six bolts = 1.2A If bolts (or whatever hardware) are not the same size, it is best to plate them separately or one by one. It does greatly affect the quality of the plating if you have pieces of hardware in in the tank that are quite different in size or surface area, rather, than one another.
That bad boy is included in our zinc plating kit - www.mxrevival.com/product-page/caswell-1-5-gallon-zinc-plating-kit-with-dc-power-supply-1 Thanks for watching and merry Christmas!
Is there something else the bolts can be coated with after the two stage buffing to prevent rust, other than zinc? Not trying to go full psycho on my project 😂
There are, but they all require about the same amount of work in the end. You can also send your hardware out to companies that will batch plate for you, but it never comes out like this. Just comes out “acceptable” which is usually enough for most people
I just joined the channel. Sorry to hear about “Chris” did he move or have something bad happened. It’s not my business but I am fitting 12 years of lumbar pain with 14 procedures of things I never heard of from 20 hr ketamine IV drip, RFA, spinal cord stimulator trial. Implant (went upside down into legs) and third that is useless. Dropped by my GP who drove me to health clinic franchisee who doesn’t want me to talk and no pain clinic only to send me to a neurosurgeon who knows prior surgeon and calls him by “Nick Name”. (Dude, are you married to his daughter or grandkid?) He told me he removes these, installs these & fixing them, but sending me elsewhere? Lost my time and co-pay! Sucks! I just want to zinc parts off my 67 C10, them Cadmium Yellow plate. Saved your video to favorite file with name for quick access. Thanks kindly for sharing your expertise! PS. I had 17 Yamahas’s an married over 4 decades, I get a new bike every 22 years. So I am due! DK. ASE Master 78.
A properly plated zinc bolt will be just as durable as a factory fastener. In fact, you can even plate thicker than they do at the factory for added protection, on areas like axles, linkage bolts, etc.
That carbon fiber head mount looks sweet. What company makes that is it cmt? Nvm I made it to the end of video. Man I wish I could buy some of those carbon mounts for my 91 cr500
Super excited to see those tied in with a kashima colored cylinder head... I'm sure you can, just got to track down the guy who will make them. They're probably a really easy part being that they are just flat.
Brother your content is very interesting to watch, but god buy a proper camera that focuses on the object you hold in your hand. Details matters here. I hope you take this feedback as good one?
Gosh dam that is absolute porn man. I love the way this 500 is gonna come together and Adam is the 500 master for sure, the motor is gonna be killer! Man this bike is not only gonna turn every head but gonna leave them all at the starting gate brother ! Torque for days!!!! Love it brother can’t wait to see it finished. I need to build a 500 to match my 125.
I'm getting excited again, spent the whole days and completing yesterday. The s*** came out amazing. That's right! This is your bike's big brother, same year and everything...
Sometimes, yes. That’s usually the route I will go with washers to save a ton of time. Over five dollars each on Rocky Mountain for washers! In the case of the 1990 CR500’s original hardware, which has a specific shape on some bolts, versus “buying new” (or just about any true vintage bike) that is not so. This tool is great for avoiding spending $70 on axles as well. Some of which are obsolete, or in very used condition one found on eBay. Thanks for watching! -Charles // mXrevival
Reusing restored old previous rusty bolt may not be advisable in all applications where the bolts are critical for strength of the construction as rusty bolts have lost some of it tensile strength.
Dude your vids are always so clean and awesome... im shocked you have hit 100k yet.. a treasure not yet found lol question.. what do you use to bleed the breaks easy ? i just put some Core SB lines on my YZ build and holy F*%@k took me like an hour to get pressure.. its an 05 lol
Thank you! Maybe someday I will get there. Paying my dues for now. All you need to bleed your brakes in just a few short minutes is a mighty vac. If you have an air compressor, you can even get one that is pneumatic. Either way they are both kick ass and get the job done super fast. If you still can't get pressure after getting clean and air free fluid through the line, try tapping your master cylinder a little bit with the rubber end of a screwdriver while pumping the lever. You'll see more bubbles escape. If that doesn't work, zip tie your lever compressed into your handlebar overnight. It will be ready to go in the morning after a few primes and pumps. Mighty Vac: www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html?campaignid=17061467934&adsetid=139903934790&product=&store=&gclid=CjwKCAjw77WVBhBuEiwAJ-YoJN5m8UTygHtY6pBHr19Pp8VK7oQ0IMD7u_68jvX8A4V5pq3mgAexXhoClmwQAvD_BwE
Awesome! You can use the drop-down menu to select the Components you need. You’re going to need “the kit with rectifier” when you make your selection. Do you have some fun!
Remove the old zinc plating and most of the rust by leaving the parts in hydrochloric acid for and hour. The same stuff that’s typically used to dose swimming pools… readily available, very cheap and you don’t need a blast cabinet. Use it undiluted.
Great tip, we did actually move to that message but using muriatic acid. Not sure if that’s what you meant? It’s like a a bath of piranhas ha ha! Thanks for watching!
@@mxrevival yes, the same thing, but usually "muriatic acid" is a dilute form, and most places in the world, except the US, calls it by its chemical name. Whatever works for you.
What is the liquid solution consist of? msds? Does it kick off fumes that would need a box fan to vent the shit out side? What the hell do you do with the spent juice once it becomes too dirty? Maybe delute it into used motor oil before recycling it? can you remove the surface oxidation from solid zink plates with a sander etc to get down to fresh material? Can you just use an old school, non electronic charger with a dimmer switch in line if you wanted to blow shit up like a meth lab on a budget? Does it constantly switch polarity during the process to remove and deposit the zinc better?
No toxic fumes in fact it actually smells pretty pleasant and a little “fruity”. The plating solution is good indefinitely as long as it’s not contaminated.
Sorry, im full of it, dumb questions. It's a nice system, someone might even turn this process into a small mail order side hack, since none of our dozen clappers justify anything more than wire wheeled bolts for now.
For anyone else, you MUST have a DC power supply, not a wall switch dimmer. AC power would try to plate and unplate your part 60 times a second. I don’t know what it would look like but it would not be good. You could use a 12V car battery/charger or even a DC “wall wart” charger but would need a way (ideally) to limit and measure the amperage for your parts. Zinc from eBay would or galvanized hardware store parts + vinegar to make zinc acetate would get you something to mess around with.
I have the kit, vapor blaster, dry blaster. My problem is my time is very valuable. If I did the job you just did it would be costing me $100 per bolt. I am thinking of just outsourcing this stuff now.
I 100 percent agree with everything you said. Unfortunately, greatness and perfection come at a cost, which is your valuable time. I’m in the same boat, but nobody will do it even remotely close to as well if outsourced. I’ve tested it, even going so far as to do all of the perfect prep on a super high level before sending the parts out. I was pretty disappointed when they came back to be honest. More than good enough for 95% of applications, and they are protected again of course with fresh zinc. But the end result just wasn’t doing it for me. On the flip side, It’s very affordable and doesn’t take much time to throw them in the box versus doing them one by one yourself. That’s for sure! I will probably limit those outsources to a very particular situation, where the ultimate outcome doesn’t matter as much. Magazine bike on the other hand, all in-house for the ultimate control and result.
Too bad this is such a labor and supply intensive process. I need to do this for 2 bikes. After that I may not need it anymore. I have used a local plating guy but there are problems beyond my control with doing it that way.
Hey Stan, it's true. It's one of those jobs that truly takes a ridiculous amount of time if you want a certain (perfect) finish when it's DIY. And I know exactly what you mean about using a plating guy. A couple weeks ago, I had a customer send in 37 pieces or so from a YZ 125. The idea was to do the prep on a super high level exactly like I do when I am doing my own plating. My thought was that, if I can get that prep way better than the plating shop is going to do it, and I just send it out for them to plate it only, then it should come back looking tits just like my stuff.... Wrong. It was nice, and it was definitely a time saver as well as being pretty affordable. But when I open the box, sort of expecting to see something crazy nice like I'm able to do it in house by myself, one by one, by hand, the whole deal... It was a little disheartening to see that it was just okay. Clean? Yes. Good enough for most people? Absolutely. Looking at it and knowing it could be so much better at the expense of one or two days time had I done it myself... A little upsetting. Having said that it's more than most people could ever hope for and would be completely satisfied with, but when you know there's more in there it's a bit tough to swallow. If I can ever be of service with one of our plating kits, I'd be elated to help you out with one. Email me here absolutely anytime if you have any questions: www.mxrevival.com/contact Thank you for watching! -Charles // mXrevival
What I don’t understand with your process is there is no passivate at the end of your plating line, i’m not an expert but on 99 % of youtube video about that kind of kit, user all states that zinc is very sensitive to humidity and will start corrode really fast which is why you passivate it in a clear blue solution or a yellow chromate solution. Is caswell kit different in anyway allowing you to skip this step ?
Good question. Truth is, just like most people, I’m always learning as well. I have since started using blue chromate at the end of the zinc plating process. I had been doing a ton of black, not even realizing it was the true way to end the process properly. I think it would be really cool if you explained to everyone what passivation means if you have time 👌 purely for other readers value add, that sort of thing is awesome.
@@mxrevival its basicly a varnish that gets on top of zinc coat when dipping at the end of the line for few seconds, once dry it adds a protection to the zinc coat , it's also the most hazardous products of this kit so it needs to be use with care especially yellow chromate
The kit is absolutely priced $430 too high, the Caswell calculator is nothing but a gatekeeping attempt. Example it will only plate at 88mph! I assure you 87 or 89 will do as well.
Polishing zinc plated bolts isn’t a good idea, specially if you polished with a wheel and a polishing compound like that. Polishing removes the zinc platting, too much polishing erases it. While making it shiny is nice, it also shorted the life of the plating.
I like to look at “good” or “bad” as up to the builder to decide. You make a great point. It will come off if it’s ran too hard and gets too hot. The rouge will get buried into the zinc (fused) in my learning experience. So, going lightly will make it look great without removing the new plating. This is what I’ve learned through a few years of trial and error. These end up with a “thick” coat of zinc on them so to speak, VS a bolt from the hardware store, let’s say- for example. For what it’s worth, the rouge is also the finest compound for polishing and doesn’t offer much cut. Thanks for watching, Vini! 🙌
18:49 - Did you just pronounce "height" with a "th" at the end, as in "width" ? Height lands on an aspirated "t" sound, not a "th" sound. Height does not rhyme with width.
One more really important detail to doing this yourself at home: VENTILATION!!! He's inside, spraying a bunch of brake cleaner into paper towels and letting that all evaporate right into the room, along with a bucket of acetone! Both of those fumes will cause cancer and all kinds of other lung-destroying, brain-destroying problems. Do this outside if possible or if you have to do it indoors, make SURE you have a fan constantly replacing the interior air with fresh air.
IT'S YOUR TURN! Check out the Caswell kit here & *_THANK YOU to all my guys who have already ordered!_* Your results have been insane too! www.mxrevival.com/shop-tools
Excellent video, would anybody else love to see a video of restoring D.I.D. Gold anodized rims of the mid 80's ?
Thank you! Maybe I’ll give it a try someday. I import new wheels (in that color sometimes) so I suppose I’ve been lazy!
If only i had a garage like you.
Acetone here acted as cleaner/degreaser. But you still need to etching it with muriatic acid/HCL to create rough surfaces(at microscopic level) so that the zinc particle adhere strongly the surface. I am telling this as my point of view as an ex electroplating operator in the big multinational japanese factory.
How durable to salt spray is this at home playing system based on your experience?
@@codyrhoades483 I am not sure about zinc plating durability bcoz I worked at Nickel electroplating. This kind of materials need to be rinse/ wipe after contact with corrosive materials. Salt water will always find its way to get below the plating surfaces if its not rinse.
Vapor blasting or dry blasting isn’t good enough? I haven’t checked in a microscope after sandblasting but for the naked eye, it looks ultra clean after blasting. Acid vs blasting; what’s best?
Yes. I was wondering about that stage being missing.
@barrymergen6345 If you don't mind me asking, what is the rectifier you speak of?
You're a Pro a perfectionist and your comprehensive and detailed explanation was the best I've ever seen .
Hey, thank you very much. Always learning and getting better. I appreciate the kind words.
Very cool vid.
An advice:
The carbon fiber plates are not strong enough to hold the work of the frame, especially on landing jumps frame may brake with fatigue.
I'd go back on steel ones.
wow... this is amazing! I've been inspired. I have an old Honda CT70 along with a '74 Yamaha 500 that I'll be restoring for the first time. Going to be doing this!!!!
Another home run Charles! I have the Caswell kit as well, I love the blue and yellow chromates. The blue matches the stock finish on most every Kawasaki I’ve ever done and adds another layer of protection. Highly recommend the yellow for things like swingarm axle brackets, brake pedal clevis, etc.
Keep bringing these bikes back to life!
Thanks Nick! I think I've seen your incredible results on Instagram and really appreciate your order. I'm assuming this is the same Nick!
I think the yellow chromate would be awesome on the Honda. Very OEM!
I haven't tried the blue, but I've spent countless, and I do mean countless hours with the black on the yz300 and several customer engine fastener kits.
I think that was my favorite and was fun being a part of bringing that into the dirt bike scene a few years ago.
@@mxrevival Other Nick! I'm the Nick with the KX250Fs who did the clear bedliner on the shocks that I Cerakote. (By the way, it doesn't hold up that well.) I've resorted to grip tape now!
Zinc by itself is not very durable, you need to use chromates after plating. If you look at any zinc plated (other than hot galvanized) hardware you can see a blue tint to them; that clear aka blue chromate. I also use their brightener solution, not sure if that was mentioned in the beginning.
Great tutorial and thank you. Only one suggestion... use regular white paper towels instead of the expensive blue shop towels. Regular paper towels do not fall apart from the brake parts cleaner like the blue shop towels do.
Amazing results 👏
Thank you, Todd is doing good too
@@mxrevival absolutely 💯
Incredible results! Really awesome how-to, Charles!
Greatly appreciated!
Thank you for the video. This was amazing to see before and after and be able to reuse any existing bolt on my build.
You need 100k+ Subs.
Great channel.
jinx.. lol was thinking the same thing man
With great guys like you I think I will get there someday. Thank you for the support!
Awesome video. Thank you for posting.
My pleasure, thank you for watching!
Just lovely!
Thank you JB 🤘
Super stoked to find this channel ,superb content and info, my old mx days were awesome ,time to get the feeling back I think
I’m stoked to help get the flames going again for you, Tony! thank you for the kind words, and I hope you enjoy the rest of the content
wow, amazing attention to detail, I’m in the dry ice cleaning business been doing for about two years I want to add a vapor honing equipment
I noticed you have two blasting machines didn’t quite catch the manufacturer
insight on the brand of equipment you use and your thoughts on who to buy from I’m in SoCal thank you so much
I may have to send you my 2003 YZ 250 desert race bike !!
howdy! i’ve been using this kit for a while now, first used to video to dial in my setup. every time i pull a part out of the bath, it comes out dull silver, with some gold tinge here and there. i can polish them up, but i’ve not once taken a part out that looked as shiny as yours. any info?
thanks!
Can’t wait for my kit to arrive! You mentioned in email your old DSM! You should get one and make some content with it!
Dude Im buying this! Been vapor blasting and using pryme pads on my restorations. This is the icing on the cake!
Absolutely dude! Feel free to use the contact link on the website if you have any questions about it. otherwise, you can find it under “shop tools“. Thanks for watching, and for your support!
Just ordered from caswell to do some fun stuff. Thanks for your videos.
You could use an ultra sonic cleaner to initially clean the hardware.
True! That would be especially great for the hollow hardware with hard to reach crud
Excellent videos
Awesome information my brother Charles. The carbon fiber headstays look incredible with the fresh bolts! 10 out of 10 bro! Take good care of yourself and your family. Cheers!
Thank you very much my friend!
Your work is good👍👍👍, greetings from indonesia.. 🇲🇨🇲🇨🇲🇨
Thank you brother
Cr500 ,bro you couldn't have picked a better bike to rebuild and make great again. 👍 🔥 💣
Maybe even better, this bike picked me?
Another great video Charles. I love my Caswell kit. You did not mention putting blue or yellow chromate on the part. I assume you do that as well? I do not have a media blaster so I put my bolts in muriatic acid to make sure I get all the previous plating off. Thanks for sharing this video.
Heck, the absolutely best step-by-step, idiot-proof tutorial! I cannob be more grateful for that. Thank you! One question - are you using steel wire brush wheel for bolt? Aren't you afraid to damage the material? I'm trying to always use the brass wire brush on my angle grinder to get rid of rust and dirt
Great video! How many bolts/nuts on average are you able to finish with the 2 new zink plates that you show?
i had to give this video my like. when he pulled that bolt out the bucket, the reaction had me in tears. great work.
WOW!!! You seriously leveled that hardware up and now that you showed the polished bolts and the carbon head stays....well, I almost fell out of my damn chair!!! To say that looks amazing is a serious understatement!!! I am going to have to start selling plasma so I can get that plating kit!!!
Haha! Liquid hot plasma. Thanks for watching, Todd 🙏
I started doing this, but cheaper to buy new bolt, versus matl and labor. That bolt is a few bucks, now for big long engine mounting bolts that cost $10 to $20 or are no longer available, this may work. Also, you can vapor blast and then use crystal clear paint from eastwood. A thin coat will take torque from wrench for one time tightening…
Thanks for watching!
Fala meu querido! Obrigado eu tenho uma Yz 125 2004 e estou a fazer tudo nela, obrigado viu seguir você aqui também, faz um ótimo e brilhante serviço.
Great video… what is your POV camera setup?
Thank you. This was probably a GoPro Hero 7 on a chest mount!
Nice work! Did your plating work reduce any of the pitting on the bolt, particularly on the shank?
Plating won’t fill pitting in any reasonable amount of time.
I can think of a few ways you could do it in theory but all of them are ridiculously expensive and time consuming. Getting bolts hand made at a machine shop would cost less than a full restoration.
When someone says it can’t be done, it really means “I don’t know how it can be done.” I’d be interested if you find a reasonable way.
Can you measure the swing arm plates with calipers and trace for me so I can make new ones on cnc
Do you think some of that manual labor with the wheel, etc. could be replaced by a few vibratory tumbler stages? Seems easier.
100%! In fact, I've moved to vapor blasting *unless* you really need the super chrome look that the wheels provide at base-prep stage. Most of the hardware is hidden after all once installed, right? Thanks for watching 👌
Nice video. sub to you. keep up the good work.
great video - Just wondering why you did not use the blue passivation solution to finish harden the zinc?
Thank you! I'm familiar with chromates but not passivation. (Blue chromate, etc) I'll have to look into it & feel free to spoil other readers with more info if you can too 🙌
i don't have any dry blasting kit, will apple cider vinegar remove the old zinc? is there any other way of removing the old zinc?
YES! I learned a new trick recently, go to the hardware store and get yourself some muriatic acid. Pour it into a bucket with a lid.
You can dip your parts into that one by one on a little copper wire. It is insane, like piranhas attacking fresh meat. The zinc comes off in seconds.
DO NOT BREATHE THE OFF-GASSING.
I'm not sure which episode it was, but you can see me doing it in one of the 1989 Suzuki RM 250 videos. I think it's the very last one I've done.
Back to the bucket, you want this so that you can throw the lid on it and store the muriatic acid because it only comes in a screw top gallon. Have fun, and again, do not breathe the off-gassing!!
Awesome video , one question you said you don’t use heat in your playing solution did you heat the first time when mixing ? Or you never heated ? About to set up my kit and just wondering as the guide says to use heat but your getting amazing results without it
Thanks! I have never used heat. I've plated in cold temps too. No issues so far. I am sure there's a reason for the heat that's to our benefit but it has been ok! All the luster comes from going overboard on the prep stages & that's been enough the last two or there years. You're going to have some serious fun 🔥
Hi dud, where did you buy the zinc plates?
Great video, thanks! Adding plating to things to learn. Question: Where did you get that awesome stainless steel long workbench?
check restaurant supply warehouses... that's where i got mine
@@GreekPower Thank you
So is 19.79v always the operating voltage? And just the amperage is changed?
Correct, I only ever need to adjust the amperage
With all that effort and great results I wouldn't even want to ride the bike
Gotta get her dirty and do it all over again 😍🙌 Thank you
Gotta get her dirty and do it all over again 😍🙌 Thank you
Wow that's sweet 🤩
How would that compare to nickel plating instead of zinc?
Thanks! Probably similar although some might like the slight difference and finish between one or the other better, than one or the other.
I believe zinc has better corrosion resistance. Where nickel might get pushed off of a bolt by corrosion underneath it, zinc would remain the sacrificial coding that the corrosion “goes to” to attack instead. Even on a partially plated zinc bolt.
For example
@@mxrevival great points!
I notice the nickel plating often looks more like a chrome finish whereas the zinc often looks dull grey.
In situations like your rebuild I think you made the right move as protection should come first, but damn you got a good shine out of that zinc 🤩
Great work 👏
Do you use a heater for the plating tank? I received the kit and noticed in video you don’t use one but the caswell guide states temps of 110 degrees.
I’ve never used a heater, not once. Cold temperatures haven’t had any adverse perfect either. 👍 warmest I’ve probably ever had the kit was 80° or so in the summer. But the temperature has always been ambient
@@mxrevival thanks man for the response!
What voltage is used to plate zinc?
The kit I sell uses a standard 120V outlet. The rectifier in the Kit supplies 5A DC max which will plate anything you’d find on a dirt bike 💪
Dude's a walking, breathing infomercial.
BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE!
Do you have to do one bolt at a time or how do you do the math to plate more than one item at a time for the amps needed
When you do your regular amperage calculation for a bolt, you can also add multiple bolts to the plating batch IF the bolts you are adding are the same size as the first one.
In this case, you would take your initial calculation, and simply multiply it by how many bolts or pieces of hardware are going in the tank.
Example: let’s say a cylinder head bolt needs .2A of current during plating, and you have six of them total.
.2A x six bolts = 1.2A
If bolts (or whatever hardware) are not the same size, it is best to plate them separately or one by one.
It does greatly affect the quality of the plating if you have pieces of hardware in in the tank that are quite different in size or surface area, rather, than one another.
What liquid for zinc sir
Can you use a strainer or a basket instead to do a batch?
What's the guys link that sells the scotch brite disc
Link in video description for you 👍👍👍thanks for watching!
Where can I order that fish tank bubbler you talk about?
That bad boy is included in our zinc plating kit - www.mxrevival.com/product-page/caswell-1-5-gallon-zinc-plating-kit-with-dc-power-supply-1
Thanks for watching and merry Christmas!
Is there something else the bolts can be coated with after the two stage buffing to prevent rust, other than zinc? Not trying to go full psycho on my project 😂
There are, but they all require about the same amount of work in the end. You can also send your hardware out to companies that will batch plate for you, but it never comes out like this. Just comes out “acceptable” which is usually enough for most people
What kind of scotch brite pads are you using? Where did you get them?
These are the one and only Pryme MX cleaning pads (you can Google that and it will pop up)
easy with those hands pal!! LOL
I just joined the channel. Sorry to hear about “Chris” did he move or have something bad happened. It’s not my business but I am fitting 12 years of lumbar pain with 14 procedures of things I never heard of from 20 hr ketamine IV drip, RFA, spinal cord stimulator trial. Implant (went upside down into legs) and third that is useless. Dropped by my GP who drove me to health clinic franchisee who doesn’t want me to talk and no pain clinic only to send me to a neurosurgeon who knows prior surgeon and calls him by “Nick Name”. (Dude, are you married to his daughter or grandkid?) He told me he removes these, installs these & fixing them, but sending me elsewhere? Lost my time and co-pay! Sucks!
I just want to zinc parts off my 67 C10, them Cadmium Yellow plate. Saved your video to favorite file with name for quick access. Thanks kindly for sharing your expertise! PS. I had 17 Yamahas’s an married over 4 decades, I get a new bike every 22 years. So I am due! DK. ASE Master 78.
Nice video Brotha!! Will they rust in the future?
A properly plated zinc bolt will be just as durable as a factory fastener. In fact, you can even plate thicker than they do at the factory for added protection, on areas like axles, linkage bolts, etc.
No sir! Even a partially plated bolt cam still have the zinc act as the sacrificial coating. Thanks for watching!
@@mxrevival , Cool 😎
That carbon fiber head mount looks sweet. What company makes that is it cmt? Nvm I made it to the end of video. Man I wish I could buy some of those carbon mounts for my 91 cr500
Super excited to see those tied in with a kashima colored cylinder head... I'm sure you can, just got to track down the guy who will make them. They're probably a really easy part being that they are just flat.
Brother your content is very interesting to watch, but god buy a proper camera that focuses on the object you hold in your hand. Details matters here. I hope you take this feedback as good one?
👍
💪
Why not clean the bolts in a tumbler?
Gosh dam that is absolute porn man. I love the way this 500 is gonna come together and Adam is the 500 master for sure, the motor is gonna be killer! Man this bike is not only gonna turn every head but gonna leave them all at the starting gate brother ! Torque for days!!!! Love it brother can’t wait to see it finished. I need to build a 500 to match my 125.
I'm getting excited again, spent the whole days and completing yesterday. The s*** came out amazing. That's right! This is your bike's big brother, same year and everything...
399th like
100th comment
I was just asking about this a cpl yrs ago
😂🙌
To me they look better with out the zinc
But the zinc keeps the steel from rusting! You could anodize, paint, or clear coat but you need something to prevent rust.
They are just bolts. You can buy new ones. Plus, a tap and die set will clean the threads.
The brackets are a different matter.
Sometimes, yes. That’s usually the route I will go with washers to save a ton of time. Over five dollars each on Rocky Mountain for washers!
In the case of the 1990 CR500’s original hardware, which has a specific shape on some bolts, versus “buying new” (or just about any true vintage bike) that is not so. This tool is great for avoiding spending $70 on axles as well. Some of which are obsolete, or in very used condition one found on eBay.
Thanks for watching!
-Charles // mXrevival
Reusing restored old previous rusty bolt may not be advisable in all applications where the bolts are critical for strength of the construction as rusty bolts have lost some of it tensile strength.
Agreed! And some are no longer available in their original fashion, or at all 🙌
Dude your vids are always so clean and awesome... im shocked you have hit 100k yet.. a treasure not yet found lol question.. what do you use to bleed the breaks easy ? i just put some Core SB lines on my YZ build and holy F*%@k took me like an hour to get pressure.. its an 05 lol
Thank you! Maybe someday I will get there. Paying my dues for now.
All you need to bleed your brakes in just a few short minutes is a mighty vac. If you have an air compressor, you can even get one that is pneumatic. Either way they are both kick ass and get the job done super fast.
If you still can't get pressure after getting clean and air free fluid through the line, try tapping your master cylinder a little bit with the rubber end of a screwdriver while pumping the lever. You'll see more bubbles escape.
If that doesn't work, zip tie your lever compressed into your handlebar overnight. It will be ready to go in the morning after a few primes and pumps.
Mighty Vac:
www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html?campaignid=17061467934&adsetid=139903934790&product=&store=&gclid=CjwKCAjw77WVBhBuEiwAJ-YoJN5m8UTygHtY6pBHr19Pp8VK7oQ0IMD7u_68jvX8A4V5pq3mgAexXhoClmwQAvD_BwE
@@mxrevival i actually ended up doing the Zip tie on the lever, i seen it on Dirtbike TV
I'm early
Welcome early bird!
i want to get the "kit" but it does not say what is in the kit
Awesome! You can use the drop-down menu to select the Components you need. You’re going to need “the kit with rectifier” when you make your selection.
Do you have some fun!
Feels even bad to put a wrench on that bolt and start tightening it...
Remove the old zinc plating and most of the rust by leaving the parts in hydrochloric acid for and hour. The same stuff that’s typically used to dose swimming pools… readily available, very cheap and you don’t need a blast cabinet. Use it undiluted.
Great tip, we did actually move to that message but using muriatic acid. Not sure if that’s what you meant? It’s like a a bath of piranhas ha ha! Thanks for watching!
@@mxrevival they are the same thing as hydrochloric acid but it’s diluted with a different ph
@@mxrevival yes, the same thing, but usually "muriatic acid" is a dilute form, and most places in the world, except the US, calls it by its chemical name. Whatever works for you.
@@viniengel just putting it out there that ph value and concentration are not the same thing.
You should bake.
saludos, doy curso de restauracion similar si alguien le interesa
**convert to a decimal from a fraction not inches kids
What is the liquid solution consist of? msds? Does it kick off fumes that would need a box fan to vent the shit out side? What the hell do you do with the spent juice once it becomes too dirty? Maybe delute it into used motor oil before recycling it? can you remove the surface oxidation from solid zink plates with a sander etc to get down to fresh material?
Can you just use an old school, non electronic charger with a dimmer switch in line if you wanted to blow shit up like a meth lab on a budget? Does it constantly switch polarity during the process to remove and deposit the zinc better?
No toxic fumes in fact it actually smells pretty pleasant and a little “fruity”. The plating solution is good indefinitely as long as it’s not contaminated.
Daaaaaaaamn, Daniel!! Are you trying to break me man!? Hahaha.
Sorry, im full of it, dumb questions.
It's a nice system, someone might even turn this process into a small mail order side hack, since none of our dozen clappers justify anything more than wire wheeled bolts for now.
For anyone else, you MUST have a DC power supply, not a wall switch dimmer. AC power would try to plate and unplate your part 60 times a second. I don’t know what it would look like but it would not be good.
You could use a 12V car battery/charger or even a DC “wall wart” charger but would need a way (ideally) to limit and measure the amperage for your parts. Zinc from eBay would or galvanized hardware store parts + vinegar to make zinc acetate would get you something to mess around with.
I have the kit, vapor blaster, dry blaster. My problem is my time is very valuable. If I did the job you just did it would be costing me $100 per bolt.
I am thinking of just outsourcing this stuff now.
I 100 percent agree with everything you said. Unfortunately, greatness and perfection come at a cost, which is your valuable time. I’m in the same boat, but nobody will do it even remotely close to as well if outsourced. I’ve tested it, even going so far as to do all of the perfect prep on a super high level before sending the parts out. I was pretty disappointed when they came back to be honest. More than good enough for 95% of applications, and they are protected again of course with fresh zinc. But the end result just wasn’t doing it for me. On the flip side, It’s very affordable and doesn’t take much time to throw them in the box versus doing them one by one yourself. That’s for sure! I will probably limit those outsources to a very particular situation, where the ultimate outcome doesn’t matter as much. Magazine bike on the other hand, all in-house for the ultimate control and result.
Very expensive using off the shelf parts!
I've found that if have long bolts to clean and want to save cleaning solution a condom works wonders filled with the juice and then tied off.
Get outta town! I avoid more offspring in EXACTLY the same way 🙌
If it wasn't for your hands talking I wouldn't understand a thing.
THANK YOU, BATMAN!! 👋🖖🤙🤘🤟👌✌️👈🤚
Too bad this is such a labor and supply intensive process. I need to do this for 2 bikes. After that I may not need it anymore. I have used a local plating guy but there are problems beyond my control with doing it that way.
Hey Stan, it's true. It's one of those jobs that truly takes a ridiculous amount of time if you want a certain (perfect) finish when it's DIY.
And I know exactly what you mean about using a plating guy.
A couple weeks ago, I had a customer send in 37 pieces or so from a YZ 125. The idea was to do the prep on a super high level exactly like I do when I am doing my own plating.
My thought was that, if I can get that prep way better than the plating shop is going to do it, and I just send it out for them to plate it only, then it should come back looking tits just like my stuff.... Wrong.
It was nice, and it was definitely a time saver as well as being pretty affordable.
But when I open the box, sort of expecting to see something crazy nice like I'm able to do it in house by myself, one by one, by hand, the whole deal... It was a little disheartening to see that it was just okay.
Clean? Yes. Good enough for most people? Absolutely. Looking at it and knowing it could be so much better at the expense of one or two days time had I done it myself... A little upsetting.
Having said that it's more than most people could ever hope for and would be completely satisfied with, but when you know there's more in there it's a bit tough to swallow.
If I can ever be of service with one of our plating kits, I'd be elated to help you out with one.
Email me here absolutely anytime if you have any questions:
www.mxrevival.com/contact
Thank you for watching!
-Charles // mXrevival
@@mxrevival Thanks for the input.
I may end up doing that.
That looks like the bolt is Nikkel plated, not Zinc plated.
It’s zinc 😉 promise. The base prep makes the zinc extra bright.
I’ve not tried the nickel chemical yet.
What I don’t understand with your process is there is no passivate at the end of your plating line, i’m not an expert but on 99 % of youtube video about that kind of kit, user all states that zinc is very sensitive to humidity and will start corrode really fast which is why you passivate it in a clear blue solution or a yellow chromate solution. Is caswell kit different in anyway allowing you to skip this step ?
Good question. Truth is, just like most people, I’m always learning as well. I have since started using blue chromate at the end of the zinc plating process. I had been doing a ton of black, not even realizing it was the true way to end the process properly.
I think it would be really cool if you explained to everyone what passivation means if you have time 👌 purely for other readers value add, that sort of thing is awesome.
@@mxrevival its basicly a varnish that gets on top of zinc coat when dipping at the end of the line for few seconds, once dry it adds a protection to the zinc coat , it's also the most hazardous products of this kit so it needs to be use with care especially yellow chromate
The kit is absolutely priced $430 too high, the Caswell calculator is nothing but a gatekeeping attempt. Example it will only plate at 88mph! I assure you 87 or 89 will do as well.
Thanks for watching 👍
Polishing zinc plated bolts isn’t a good idea, specially if you polished with a wheel and a polishing compound like that. Polishing removes the zinc platting, too much polishing erases it. While making it shiny is nice, it also shorted the life of the plating.
I like to look at “good” or “bad” as up to the builder to decide. You make a great point. It will come off if it’s ran too hard and gets too hot. The rouge will get buried into the zinc (fused) in my learning experience. So, going lightly will make it look great without removing the new plating. This is what I’ve learned through a few years of trial and error. These end up with a “thick” coat of zinc on them so to speak, VS a bolt from the hardware store, let’s say- for example. For what it’s worth, the rouge is also the finest compound for polishing and doesn’t offer much cut. Thanks for watching, Vini! 🙌
So awesome! I got a peek at the pipe going on it! Going to be so sexy! It’s BBA4L
That thing has been haunting me for so long! Thanks homie 🔥
Great video but please stop waving your hands around so much lol it gets pretty annoying
🥱.
Patience is definitely a lost virtue….
18:49 - Did you just pronounce "height" with a "th" at the end, as in "width" ? Height lands on an aspirated "t" sound, not a "th" sound.
Height does not rhyme with width.
another jag bag commercial , what is the solution!!! Oh you have to buy it it, Im not allowed to make it?
One more really important detail to doing this yourself at home: VENTILATION!!! He's inside, spraying a bunch of brake cleaner into paper towels and letting that all evaporate right into the room, along with a bucket of acetone! Both of those fumes will cause cancer and all kinds of other lung-destroying, brain-destroying problems. Do this outside if possible or if you have to do it indoors, make SURE you have a fan constantly replacing the interior air with fresh air.
Have you ever worked at a shop? Lol everything causes cancer.
Maybe lose the commentary!
Thanks for watching! 🤙
450usd for 1.5 gallons - I will not buy it.
Wait until you see how much it cost for the next size up kit 😂
the music? Not conducive to listening, simply awful.
Merry Christmas 👍
@@mxrevival
No. I will not buy it.
Thanks for watching 😂
God awful music
We can’t all have good taste! 😉 thanks for watching, I think you’ll enjoy it if your ears aren’t bleeding
Nice Bra
🫵😎