Wonderful job, best video and camera test I have seen in ages. Congrats to Paula, Ian and your team of drone pilots and cameramen/women. Also those lovely swimmers!
Thank you so much for such a wonderfully, entertaining, and informative video. Your production value is unmatched compared to anything I see on TH-cam. Halfway through, I felt like I was watching a Netflix documentary. From the beautiful cinematography, to the seamless editing, to the perfect music selections, to the beautiful drone shot at the end of the portraituré scene, bravo!
It’s a crying shame you don’t get to make more videos with Ian - the combo of his personality/photography, with the wonderful filmmaking & editing by the team represents something that’s very rare on TH-cam. Between this & Alan Schaller’s new channel, we’re definitely seeing a step up in what one can expect from photography TH-cam. Wonderful.
I don’t have words. So enjoyable to watch. Congratulations to all of you. This is the first video I’ve seen, that illuminates the digital back side of the Hasselblad!
Thank you so much for putting this video together. It is clear from your video that the camera is a joy to use, and that the end results, at least in your expert hands, are really quite remarkable.
What a great review, this was exactly what I was looking for. I've been using a PhaseOne digital back most of my career on an ALPA 12tc. Before upgrading to the newest IQ4 PhaseOne though to look into the Hasselblad CFV 100c and this video answered all my question. Thank you, Cheers
What an great amusement your video. I love it from the drone shots within wonderful Petula Clark "Downtown", till you drop it ;) - and yeah, the hassy is amazing too.
hey, one tip, for the day one shoot, when changing lens {on the linhofs} take the 100C back off! as the lens rear element protrusion is different, better to see an "incursion" into the back mount, than to hear a crunch!!, so the bellows distance can be adjusted beforehand, to the correct distance, then CHECKED first 🙂 so no damage done!
I'm not sure which lenses this would be an issue. None of the rear elements of the Rodenstock's that I use fit through the aperture of the adapter plate. I also use a stitching back which adds a bit more depth at the rear. It's a good point if you have lenses that have a rear element that is smaller than the aperture of the adapter plate.
You made me check. Interestingly the rear plate from a different digital back manufacturer has a smaller aperture than the Hasselblad adapter and the rear element does fit through these. Although I always set the camera to the infinity stops before mounting anything. The rear element is highly unlikely to come into contact with the sensor unless the camera is in its packed state and even then the rear element is larger than the sensor (smallest rear element I have is 48mm, 70mm Rodenstock HRW) so would hit the body of back and not the sensor. It would also only be the wider angle lenses this could happen to and they have even larger rear elements. Not sure about other manufacturers so worth checking. You may have a valid point and it may well be best practice.
@@ianatkinson2255 yes, but I said it because I have a 150 f9 which has a rear ~58 mm or less, it is very thin, about the size of the locking ring of the shutter, but it is still smaller; and the fact the linhof technikardan like most monorails has a thin profile, so therefore can get really close to the film plane, and May, not definitely, have a chance of touching, esp. if rise/fall and shift are used.
@@ianatkinson2255 yes, I am realy carefull of this now, I got a sinar F2 with a 65mm 5.6 Fujinon SWD and that infinity focuses at ~ 3 fingers between the standard carriers!! and I have the sinar vario 120 back on it, and yes, pulling the ground glass back with the bails does reveal a 5cm approx. distance between the gg plate and the rear element, so I am fine with film holders, but would be even more anxious if it was a 47 or 38mm lens.
Great video. As you were setting up down the seafront I was worried that the arcade owner would have a moan. He is famous for being confrontational with photographers.
Fantastic video! Beautifully done and a pleasure to watch. I would love to use my X2D-100 on my Linhof 45S Technikardan. Does Linhof have any plans to make adapter for X2D body to Graflok back?
Loved these videos with Ian. I noticed he was using the Profoto Connect (guessing Nikon) with the Hasselblad. Just wondered how it performed as a trigger on the Hasselblad? Any issues? Cheers
Interesting question! If you are using as a 907x then you can fit the hotshoe. If you are using on a technical camera then I guess you have a traditional cable release. You can also fire from the smart phone app. failing all of those you could try a mini jack splitter, can't say it will work but they are cheap enough to try. I did think about this question with the 50C (which didn't have the hotshoe) but in the end I never found a situation where I needed the stability of the cable release and flash, I can see circumstances where it would be useful but I think with the new 907x hotshoe it takes away many of the issues. Hope this helps
Thank you very much for your comment, the adapter used is a Linhof V adapter for the Technikardan. You can find it on our website in the Technikardan section. do contact us if you have any questions!
day 2, the 'analogue' lens you wonder about, Should do the 100C justice, as it is designed for 4x5", which has a ~1,000MP resolution when converted (lines/sq mm-->pixels); But Don't do large enlargements, as for LF film, they can go big, but some softness, CA, etc. is visible, if you view it up close (this big enlargement is only meant to be viewed from 1-2 meters away, where none of this artifact is visible, and the true resolution comes to the fore).
I'm guessing you are talking about vignetting caused when using a technical camera and movements. If it is a fixed lens the use the Lens calibration tool in Phocus or Lightroom. You need to do a lens correction, like I did at the beginning of the video. This should help along with watching what I demonstrated. th-cam.com/video/b7iggTakk-M/w-d-xo.html
With cameras like the Panasonic Lumix S1R and the Leica SL2 achieving 187 true megapixels with its superior auto pixel shift. Kind of makes this Hasselblad irrelevant.
I have an s1r and a X1D 50 megapixel. I have compared both files casually, and must say the full frame compares admirably with a good lens. The X1D mf sensor can be zoomed into more obviously, but the s1r has shown v good image quality so far. I haven't yet used the 187 megapixel function but plan to soon. There is however a different "look" from the larger sensor and the tonal spread is smoother and shallower. However I agree that ff sensors can closely mimic this kind of look depending on lenses. I have a couple of apo lenses for the s1r and they look rather good to me.
![เขามัทรี - เอ็กซ์ ศุภกฤต - จอนนี่มิวสิค [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AS9ufKuQIVs/mqdefault.jpg)
My mum is one of those swimming ladies, she's so proud of this. Thanks so much for capturing this part of her life man, what an incredible gift.
They were absolutely amazing and they look amazing too.
Wonderful job, best video and camera test I have seen in ages. Congrats to Paula, Ian and your team of drone pilots and cameramen/women. Also those lovely swimmers!
Thanks Nick, Hope you are well. It's been a long long time. Best Ian
Thoroughly enjoyed this video. And bravo to those ladies who braved the cold.
Thank you so much for such a wonderfully, entertaining, and informative video. Your production value is unmatched compared to anything I see on TH-cam. Halfway through, I felt like I was watching a Netflix documentary. From the beautiful cinematography, to the seamless editing, to the perfect music selections, to the beautiful drone shot at the end of the portraituré scene, bravo!
Wow. Thank you. So pleased you liked it.
I love what you did with 907x 50c and this one with 100c it’s even more interesting 🙏🏻🙌👏👏👏👏
It’s a crying shame you don’t get to make more videos with Ian - the combo of his personality/photography, with the wonderful filmmaking & editing by the team represents something that’s very rare on TH-cam. Between this & Alan Schaller’s new channel, we’re definitely seeing a step up in what one can expect from photography TH-cam. Wonderful.
That last video was 3 years ago??? What the hell. I love your videos.
I don’t have words. So enjoyable to watch. Congratulations to all of you. This is the first video I’ve seen, that illuminates the digital back side of the Hasselblad!
Very Good, chuckle chuckle.
The best review!
Very pro made from a pro perspective and not like all these bloggers who don’t know how to create image but just create bla bla bla
This is just wonderful, even if you’re not interested in niche camera equipment. Far more engaging than most telly. Magical!
Top notch content for professionals, plus the production is alway so enjoyable, love your videos, thanks for sharing this.
2 thumbs up! best use of the 907X back I've seen. Loved it.
Awesome! Great to see a modern camera be so modular in its design...
Thank you so much for putting this video together. It is clear from your video that the camera is a joy to use, and that the end results, at least in your expert hands, are really quite remarkable.
Thank you. I've been a photographer pretty much all my life, but so much to learn from a photographer with Ian's knowledge and talents.
Wow, thanks. Glad you enjoyed the film.
What a great review, this was exactly what I was looking for. I've been using a PhaseOne digital back most of my career on an ALPA 12tc. Before upgrading to the newest IQ4 PhaseOne though to look into the Hasselblad CFV 100c and this video answered all my question. Thank you, Cheers
What a superb video. I really enjoyed it. Just 6.7K views in 9 days. Lots of people are missing this.
A thoroughly enjoyable and informative real-world video. Thank you!
South end turning the lights off is a classic move. I’ve been on two shoots where they’ve done the same unless you grease their palms
Superb review!!! Best I've seen on the new Blad!!
What an great amusement your video. I love it from the drone shots within wonderful Petula Clark "Downtown", till you drop it ;) - and yeah, the hassy is amazing too.
hey, one tip, for the day one shoot, when changing lens {on the linhofs} take the 100C back off! as the lens rear element protrusion is different, better to see an "incursion" into the back mount, than to hear a crunch!!, so the bellows distance can be adjusted beforehand, to the correct distance, then CHECKED first 🙂 so no damage done!
I'm not sure which lenses this would be an issue. None of the rear elements of the Rodenstock's that I use fit through the aperture of the adapter plate. I also use a stitching back which adds a bit more depth at the rear. It's a good point if you have lenses that have a rear element that is smaller than the aperture of the adapter plate.
You made me check. Interestingly the rear plate from a different digital back manufacturer has a smaller aperture than the Hasselblad adapter and the rear element does fit through these. Although I always set the camera to the infinity stops before mounting anything. The rear element is highly unlikely to come into contact with the sensor unless the camera is in its packed state and even then the rear element is larger than the sensor (smallest rear element I have is 48mm, 70mm Rodenstock HRW) so would hit the body of back and not the sensor. It would also only be the wider angle lenses this could happen to and they have even larger rear elements. Not sure about other manufacturers so worth checking. You may have a valid point and it may well be best practice.
@@ianatkinson2255 yes, but I said it because I have a 150 f9 which has a rear ~58 mm or less, it is very thin, about the size of the locking ring of the shutter, but it is still smaller; and the fact the linhof technikardan like most monorails has a thin profile, so therefore can get really close to the film plane, and May, not definitely, have a chance of touching, esp. if rise/fall and shift are used.
@@ianatkinson2255 yes, I am realy carefull of this now, I got a sinar F2 with a 65mm 5.6 Fujinon SWD and that infinity focuses at ~ 3 fingers between the standard carriers!! and I have the sinar vario 120 back on it, and yes, pulling the ground glass back with the bails does reveal a 5cm approx. distance between the gg plate and the rear element, so I am fine with film holders, but would be even more anxious if it was a 47 or 38mm lens.
Great video. Gutted I wasn’t in Southend and Leigh when you were filming this.
I use the CFV100c with the HC HTS 1.5x giving myself a mini ArcBody - Hass are the bomb right now with flexibility
Great video. I enjoyed it as I learned.
What a fantastic video! Thanks for sharing.
Fascinating BTS very well short video. And amazing results, I'm gonna have to watch at least 10 × to compare with the lenses, backs and film.
Wonderful portraits and a great video - thanks.
What a fantastic video. Thank you!
Great video Ian!
Thanks Paul.
Great video. As you were setting up down the seafront I was worried that the arcade owner would have a moan. He is famous for being confrontational with photographers.
Brilliant review
Great content. Thank you.
Really impressed! Great wonderful portraits, incl. the 'candids' .I would never have done that! Too much gear, logistics out of reach. Bravo.
Thank you for your trouble and information.
Fantastic video! Beautifully done and a pleasure to watch. I would love to use my X2D-100 on my Linhof 45S Technikardan. Does Linhof have any plans to make adapter for X2D body to Graflok back?
Loved these videos with Ian. I noticed he was using the Profoto Connect (guessing Nikon) with the Hasselblad. Just wondered how it performed as a trigger on the Hasselblad? Any issues? Cheers
works perfectly.
Amazing video, would love to know how the set up works in order to sync the flash with the shutter release cable, all with the CFV digital back
Interesting question! If you are using as a 907x then you can fit the hotshoe. If you are using on a technical camera then I guess you have a traditional cable release. You can also fire from the smart phone app. failing all of those you could try a mini jack splitter, can't say it will work but they are cheap enough to try.
I did think about this question with the 50C (which didn't have the hotshoe) but in the end I never found a situation where I needed the stability of the cable release and flash, I can see circumstances where it would be useful but I think with the new 907x hotshoe it takes away many of the issues. Hope this helps
Excellent video.. what kind of adapter you have to fit CFV on the 4x5?
If you contact Linhof and Studio they can get you the correct adapter for your camera.
Thank you very much for your comment, the adapter used is a Linhof V adapter for the Technikardan. You can find it on our website in the Technikardan section. do contact us if you have any questions!
20:39 The Kodak film is more saturated and looks better than the digital back.
would interesting using it with Hasselblad arc body with 35mm and 45mm Lenses compering to XCD lens 45mm and 38mm V lens
I think someone in the comments is doing exactly that, might be worth reaching out.
what adaptor were you using to attach the digital back to the Linhof? and do you know if this would translate to a cambo 4x5?
If you contact Linhof and Studio they can get you the correct adapter for your camera.
day 2, the 'analogue' lens you wonder about, Should do the 100C justice, as it is designed for 4x5", which has a ~1,000MP resolution when converted (lines/sq mm-->pixels); But Don't do large enlargements, as for LF film, they can go big, but some softness, CA, etc. is visible, if you view it up close (this big enlargement is only meant to be viewed from 1-2 meters away, where none of this artifact is visible, and the true resolution comes to the fore).
What about taking the beach shots in summer?🥵🤣
I want to know how to remove vignetting caused by a camera back
I'm guessing you are talking about vignetting caused when using a technical camera and movements. If it is a fixed lens the use the Lens calibration tool in Phocus or Lightroom.
You need to do a lens correction, like I did at the beginning of the video. This should help along with watching what I demonstrated. th-cam.com/video/b7iggTakk-M/w-d-xo.html
Technikardan is the least stable Linhof. A Technika is much better.
With cameras like the Panasonic Lumix S1R and the Leica SL2 achieving 187 true megapixels with its superior auto pixel shift. Kind of makes this Hasselblad irrelevant.
I have an s1r and a X1D 50 megapixel. I have compared both files casually, and must say the full frame compares admirably with a good lens. The X1D mf sensor can be zoomed into more obviously, but the s1r has shown v good image quality so far. I haven't yet used the 187 megapixel function but plan to soon. There is however a different "look" from the larger sensor and the tonal spread is smoother and shallower. However I agree that ff sensors can closely mimic this kind of look depending on lenses. I have a couple of apo lenses for the s1r and they look rather good to me.