Another way to get adhesive deep throughout a crack is to use unwaxed DENTAL FLOSS running bac, and forth through the crack. Once the FLOSS is deep in the crack it can be "lubricated" with adhesive before pulling the FLOSS back and forth through the crack at a 90 degree angle. If a hardwood peg is used to add nechanical sipport, do not drill completely through the stock. Even well-sanded and stained pegs ususlly show up as ugly "dots" on the outside.
My 2 cents. This seems to be an excellent method to repair cracks of this type. A thought on installing that dowel. This may seem to be a little too nit picking to some and that's fine however if you have very closely matched the size of the hole to the dowel (which IMHO) is good. With the dowel in a vise, use a hacksaw to cut a small channel along the length of the dowel. Don't go too deep, no deeper than 1/4 into the circumference. This channel gives excess glue a path to squeeze out of the hole but leaving all that is necessary to do the job. Gentle tapping on the dowel will seat it all the way in to the blank end of the hole. Without the opportunity to escape, the glue will not evacuate the hole and as you (at this point) hammer in the dowel it will build hydraulic pressure and will slightly push your dowel out of the hole. Ever so slightly perhaps but you do not want any movement as the wood glue sets. Keep a good waterproof finish on the wood not just on the outside but inside where the barrel and action heat up the wood and quicken the drying out of the wood. Personally I use raw linseed here and have for many years always with lasting and very effective results. I'm about to repair a 2 inch crack on the fore end of a 1950's JC Higgins Mod. 50. Good advise here on this vid and using wood glue is a good choice.
Another way to get adhesive deep throughout a crack is to use unwaxed DENTAL FLOSS running bac, and forth through the crack. Once the FLOSS is deep in the crack it can be "lubricated" with adhesive before pulling the FLOSS back and forth through the crack at a 90 degree angle. If a hardwood peg is used to add nechanical sipport, do not drill completely through the stock. Even well-sanded and stained pegs ususlly show up as ugly "dots" on the outside.
My 2 cents. This seems to be an excellent method to repair cracks of this type. A thought on installing that dowel. This may seem to be a little too nit picking to some and that's fine however if you have very closely matched the size of the hole to the dowel (which IMHO) is good. With the dowel in a vise, use a hacksaw to cut a small channel along the length of the dowel. Don't go too deep, no deeper than 1/4 into the circumference. This channel gives excess glue a path to squeeze out of the hole but leaving all that is necessary to do the job. Gentle tapping on the dowel will seat it all the way in to the blank end of the hole. Without the opportunity to escape, the glue will not evacuate the hole and as you (at this point) hammer in the dowel it will build hydraulic pressure and will slightly push your dowel out of the hole. Ever so slightly perhaps but you do not want any movement as the wood glue sets. Keep a good waterproof finish on the wood not just on the outside but inside where the barrel and action heat up the wood and quicken the drying out of the wood. Personally I use raw linseed here and have for many years always with lasting and very effective results. I'm about to repair a 2 inch crack on the fore end of a 1950's JC Higgins Mod. 50. Good advise here on this vid and using wood glue is a good choice.
Dude...I thought Brad Pitt is talking for a moment!!!!
Good video I liked it
DefenderOfFreedom Thanks Paul! I really appreciate it Brother.👍👊
Yo how you like that 78 American jack Amber jig bone?
Pg R It's one of my favorites out of the 2017 run! 💘
Not the way to fix a stock. If you do what's in this video, it looks terrible and has the potential to hurt or kill someone
How is it supposed to kill anyone