Hell, for 35 Canadian Pesos I wouldn't even have done the dye test... but this is the first time I've seen this done and I appreciate you going through it for my benefit.
I thouight he did it for your benefit too, since I would have chucked it for the newbie. No point in seeing steam up close and personal. It is a great process though.
dye pen is great as its fast , cheap , portable and needs no power source ,,, but ,, follow the instructions on the cans exactly ,,, there is a waiting time for the dye ,,, it has to be adhered too ,,, probably was but the video was cut short for the tube and yes , Im a ndt tech , or at least I was.
Few things will have the male of the species gather around faster on the shop floor than announcing that a magnaflux test is being performed. More mesmerizing than a Three Card Monty game.
I work as a Civil Engineer in the frozen heaven hole of northern scandinavia. Part of my duties are inspections of old an new bridges. We had one assignment checking a bridge for fatigue cracks in its steel beams, acting as ties in a tied arch bridge. Mind you this bridge is about 900m long (which is like a gazillion feet and miles) with 14 or 15 spans. And me beeing the young hungry "get 'er done" engineer suggested: Hey, lets just use penetrant and developer and all the cracks will show up clear as day. This was an actually an idea from one of your vids, some many moons ago if I remember correctly checking a plastic part. Cant remember which BOLTR. WELL, 2 beams + cross girders for a 900m bridge... It would've taken about 1000 cans.. And I brought 4.... Not to mention about 6weeks of work. Luckily enough for me, because of the thick brittle paint used in old bridges here most of the cracks were visible and the customer agreed to just focus on those about 0.05mm thick cracks and their lengths and monitor them for the time beeing. First inspection was in -18, did one more -20 and just another one -22, cracks are growing, and new are forming. But the bridge still stand. Penetrating spray, or not. So, not to be used en masse. /Frozen mustache
What you need is an "Indian can" or a pesticide sprayer, and an inside man at the chemical company that makes the dye penetrant, lol. Have 'er done in no time.
@@allanwood3562 Yeah but more suited for in situ inspections of welds and such. Using it on 900+ m of 2000mm high webs + flanges. Good, but not practical. En masse, close up and visual wins in these instances.
I'm a machinist in Cornwall, PA at PRL inc. We build RO pumps for different US Navy subs and the new Ford class carriers. Everything gets X-rayed and dye tested multiple times throughout the manufacturing process. Great video as always. I found you back in 2013 when I was going to school to be a machinist.
At least buying the replacement isn't the most expensive option - you could also draw up the whole thing and run off a copy on the CNC, then figure out how to move over all the extra parts... Could waste whole weeks with that option!
I'd buy one of those made from a sensible metal, the aluminium on the flange corroding and pitting is a quite common failure on these. (A higher quality or anodized aluminium may be enough to may be good enough.)
From someone who occasionally Tig welds cast aluminum you’re right. Most people shouldn’t bother even if they have the setup. It can be down right frustrating especially with cheap castings you deal with these days. You’ll find yourself chasing trash half of the way through it and trying to fill it back in. I’m in the automotive field and I only do it when a part is not available or is ridiculously priced. I’ll do some wheels here and there too but they seem to be a lot better than most cast parts.
As someone who also Tig welds cast aluminum fairly often, your comment pretty much nailed it. The cheap castings that are being made now suck to weld. There is so much trash in the metal it's not funny, but even dirty castings can be welded. I would have welded Ave's part just to weld it. Trash parts are how you learn, however that part was repairable with tig welding.
As a pretty smart scrapper for over a decade, Al car wheels are either made from fresh metallurgy or recycled existing Al wheels…believe it’s called 356 Aluminum wheels in the trade. Cast aluminum like what is used for things like this coffee water heater are prob just any old cast aluminum mix and prob a bit of quick metallurgy to try and get rid of some bad things or add good or both…or in China, prob neither. Scrap cast for consumer stuff is just whatever the scrappers bring in and all the diff recipes they find in the field.
Some of the Rockstar wheels out there are an absolute whore to weld up. I am not sure of their QC process...but I have done about 14 of them, and probably 10 have welded like complete shit. The rest welded great for some reason.
Ive had pretty good luck with alot of cast aluminum none of my stuff critically needed to be air or water tight. And I've never practiced making thing that are
I'm forcing myself to learn the AC TIG repair of cast aluminum just because of an automotive bell housing that is no longer affordable, though there is an aftermarket option now available (for the low, low price of ~$800 USD!) Wheee, the fun of oily, dirty aluminum...
Here's a tip if you're using dye penetrant. Just spray a small amount into a cap and brush it onto the suspect area. Much less messy. If it bleeds heavily into the developer wipe it off in one direction (clean cloth) and lightly spray on more developer. There's a lot more to it than you may think btw. Old NDT technician.
I do lots of welding on pressure vessels in a shop, the cap and brush technique is how I do it as well, usually dye pen. The back of my root pass before welding the other side if the joint is getting x-ray tested or ultrasound tested
That's how I was told to do it, although I was working on assemblies in a vehicle so overspray and cleanup was a bigger PITA. I always wondered why they sold it in the aerosols as opposed to just a jar with a brush. I guess it probably has to do with the solvent evaporating out.
I haven't done a dye penetrant test for 30 years, a great reminder. An early vijayo of yours, always do the easiest thing first, get on the Gargler, if it's less than $50 save yourself a headache.
Exactly...how much is your time worth and if the repair fails that will be time wasted. It only inflates the cost of replacement. Don't get me wrong I have made custom replacement parts for broken shit that a replacement part was not available for, but the savings wasn't going to be less than 40 bucks.
It's scary to think that AvE's little sproglet, who we only saw just last month (or so it feels) wandering into the workshop and talking to daddy in the sweetest shy little girl voice, is now going to be old enough to cause uncle Bumble a little nervous twitch of the eye every time she starts a sentence with "There's this boy at school......." ! You've gotta cherish the present because this present will be the distant past in the blink of an eye.
I'm of the mind that you should hide your crack in the hardest possible location to find. Unfortunately, my wife has really taken this advice to heart.
I enjoyed my years doing NDT in the USAF. I can not testify to the chemicals you used, but the cleaner/remover for Magniflux and also Met-L-Chek penetrant systems was 1,1,1, Trichloroethane, also known as Methyl Chloroform. Clean parts made for good inspections and happy inspectors.
The structure is a point of safe failure. If the steam thermostat sticks, the flange cracks or deforms releasing the steam pressure into the housing instead of blowing at the top where the valve is and where the steam would blow into user hand.
@@markhooker8520 I don't think anyone has specifically designed this corner to be the point of failure at this or that pressure, but definitely the design that was easy and cheap to manufacture was tested for how it fails on overpressure. And it fails at the bottom, where the obvious stress raisers are, but way above the normal operating pressure, and it does show that the part that's easiest to replace fails (the boiler).
I have to applaud you squire!...... you truly are a master of words. Laughed so hard I missed half the vijeo..had to go back several times. Between King chuckles the terd, California's cancer and baby dolls misfortune..... what was this video about again🤔🤣
You can absolutely weld high silicone cast ally parts. It's just not fun. First thing I usually do after grinding it out is just run the arc over the area to be welded a couple of times without filler and a good 30-40% cleaning. The first time especially you'll see all sorts of crap bubbling up out of it, but after the second or third, or sometimes fourth go for things like oil pans, it'll begin to puddle and act nicely. At that point you can go ahead and start putting filler rod in, just pick one with a high silicone content like 4043 etc. It's a pain in the ass, it's mostly successful but not always and for a $35 pressure vessel absolutely not worth bothering to try as a viable repair. That said, it would be entertaining to see you fix it and then destructively test it just to see how good the repair was... No steam, just a nice steel plate to seal against and an enerpac.
Yeah.. If you are already going to throw the part away, or put it into the recast bin, and you have the tools/expendables to at least attempt a repair and you aren't being paid to repair/replace and you have the time, then it's usually a good idea to at least attempt a repair just for the pressure test and bragging rights. That being said though.. 35 dollars.. that's only worth at most an hour of your time. Any more than that and it's a waste of time/money. Would I do it? yeah, but I like to see things that I make get temp/pressure testing.
Hey AvE, your video shows how many subs you have now. We knew you had a million, but we didn't have anything to show us the number. Nice! Congratulations. KYDIAV.
I just got to visit the AF NDI shop on the base nearby for a tour, and was amazed at a few of the inspection techniques. The UV penetrant was amazing, but their take on magnetic inspection using the oil bath with particles in it was interesting, as was the ultrasonic inspection. (Both the single emitter testing, and the double emitter or emitter-receiver thickness testing were demonstrated.)
Casting, white powder, red coming from the cracks... I dont know about you, but to me that sounds like a recipe for becoming the strange fella at the bar no one makes eye contact with.
Finally a subject I know all about. Been doing Dye-Pen on the railway for 2 decades over in sunny England. The manufacturer and the 1 day BS training they put us through recommend spraying the lint free rag with cleaner to wipe off the excess dye as a dry rag can pull the dye out. We do it because we don't pay for the gear but it just seems like an excuse to sell more cleaner and lint free cloth.
Not sure where you get your consumables but Pfinfer do a great water soluble LPT, then you’ll only have to carry a garden sprayer and clean rags. Not sure why Network rail request LPT because I find unless you’re in laboratory MPI gives better repeatable resolution (Material dependent). Definitely agree with that 1 day course being pretty futile especially when most inspectors have PCN and ASNT qualifications.
Not sure where you get your consumables but Pfinfer do a great water soluble LPT, then you’ll only have to carry a garden sprayer and clean rags. Not sure why Network rail request LPT because I find unless you’re in laboratory MPI gives better repeatable resolution (Material dependent). Definitely agree with that 1 day course being pretty futile especially when most inspectors have PCN and ASNT qualifications.
Not sure where you get your consumables but Pfinfer do a great water soluble LPT, then you’ll only have to carry a garden sprayer and clean rags. Not sure why Network rail request LPT because I find unless you’re in laboratory MPI gives better repeatable resolution (Material dependent). Definitely agree with that 1 day course being pretty futile especially when most inspectors have PCN and ASNT qualifications.
Learned NDI and magnaflux testing in FAA A&P school many years ago. It’s the standard for checking aircraft components for defects as well as eddy current, X-ray and ultrasound inspections
I work as a saw smith apprentice in the steel industry, we use a magnaflux to check for cracks in blades, but instead of powder we use Ardrox which is iron powder in I believe it is mineral oil or some other super low viscosity lubricating liquid which seems to work better than straight powder as it lets the powder "flow" to the cracks
The developer is also handy for locating hard to source oil leaks. Get everything nice and clean, spray the general area, run the unit, look for the wet spot.
Magnaflux makes a UV penetrant dye too, in case you like to play with black lights, under the brand name Zyglo. I never could tell the difference, but the UV one is supposed to be better for finding tight cracks, whereas the red dye is better at wide or shallow cracks.
Magnaflux products have gone downhill over the past few years but there penetrant and mag supplies are still top notch. Use this shit daily. Too bad they killed off Sonotech Couplants for Ultrasound because they were best in the buissness
I only recently got to visit an aviation NDI shop and saw a part that had been professionally prepped for UV dye penetrant. Amazing how much of a difference the full (four stages?) process makes, and the crack showed up brilliantly on the part, while nearly impossible to see without the UV illuminator. Even scrupulously cleaned, it was near invisible to the naked eye.
Could be mistaken, but I recall you used to play around with Arduino's. There is an open Arduino project for these Gaggia's to give them a ton of extra features and functionality. Might be cool
Thanks for the tip on the dye test. Minty! That piece is scrap metal. That part is cheap enough to replace, and no worries about it splitting or breaking welds. Safety first AvE.
Now you show me this two weeks after I needed it. I had to do a weld penetration test on multiple parts to satisfy one of my companies customers. Damn the time lag from Canada to the U.S. of A.
I could see exactly where you were going with the RV story. I'm sorry, I laughed a little. I've witnessed something similar and a laughed so much it was painful. The more my mate protested the more I laughed. It must have been 10 years before he could see the funny side. I think he even hatted me for a short time. It's been 20 years and it still makes me chuckle.
In airlines we use the dye pen a lot…. We use the developer spray also to check for leaks on high temp/pressure air ducts that are not viewable or covered during operation on engines..
I've done this same repair on mine. You'll need to harvest that valve and the thermostats from that one. Might ort to order another gasket for it as well while you're at it.
Working at a ski resort we box up all the metal arms that clamp on the haul line in a crate. They all get tested for cracks using that method. Weeks of work to get them all down and weeks more to put all the chairs back up.
an AC and reefer cargo tech for 20 odd years now. my go to solution for high silica casted pressure vessel is brazing or for fast repair I draw a vacuum, strap a cranckcase heater around the vessel and apply heat seal stick on cracks. you got your heaters there so drawing vacuum is the conundrum you have to solve.
A wise man once told me, "You should learn from your mistakes, but you should definitely learn from other people's mistakes. It's cheaper, and less painful."
Why would they make a pressure vessel square, cracked right at the corners. (I did the same thing as a young engineer and the piece I made did the same thing...)
Probably because it gives them a handy place to mount stuff, like the heating elements, steamvalve etc. I happen to have the (ancient) previous design Gaggia boiler, round and with the heating elements cast into the aluminium. Cracked in exactly the same place, right in the transition to the flange. A bit sad that they didn't really learn and add a radius there, when they redesigned these in 1980 or so. How ancient espresso tech is still continues to amaze me, some high end machines still use the E61 group. Which was designed in 1961.
As an ex pressure vessel engineer, good call. However, consider the value to your viewership of an attempted repair, pressure test and resultant explosive failure. Of course to be done under safe conditions. This could be a real learning experience. There are sites that specialize in such tom foolery. Cheers.
Hey bud, greetings from the northern shores of the Salish Sea! Left the homestead last Christmas and drained the reservoir on the ol' caffenator but didn't think to drain the boilers, besides when does the mercury dip that low on the coast. Same part, same outcome. My machine has two of those units; one for the beans and one for the cow puss. I could send you the good one or you can tell me where to find a replacement for $35. Crying shame too, I got the $900 piece of steampunk art from the neighbour for 40 bucks.
Just for those that don't know, a standard espresso machine operates at 9 bar, and these are closer to 11 bar. I can imagine getting a jet of boiling 11 bars in your face when trying to make the morning coffee would be a bad day
@@toyorover1313 the pump is in the cold water feed line, so the boiler does see the full brew pressure. This is the way with all coffee makers, there are no consumer grade pumps that would be happy operating at 100*C, also the water would get too cold before reaching the grounds
Got the same espresso maker here at home. She's the only one to get. I don't think the design of this one will _ever_ go out of production. You learn how to run it. Citric Acid flush once a month keeps it skookum.
Accidentally found a cracked injector nozzle on a little catiperkins with that stuff, the over spray got on the rearest one and revealed the tiniest fuel leak adding to the hydraulic leak from the cracked pump. Saved me a return visit
When i jobbed on railway construction sides, i was the crack inspector ... everybody who didnt pulled up their pants, got a bunch of itching powder dumped in. My colleagues loved my so much for that, everytime i fell asleep in my car they where so friendly to wake me up with a CO2 powered signal / train horn.
Used this combo on every trailer with wheel spindles during the inspections required.. This stuff will show the tiniest of cracks in what looks to the naked eye as shiny, polished steel.
I used to do specialty spray hard facing where a mixture of binder metal powder and tiny carbide bb's would spray out through the flame tip of the torch and fuse onto the metal substrate, the parts were stainless steel, but the binder metal powders were different alloys and required a bunch of controlled heat treating, pre heating, and slow gradual cool down time. Long story short I had to dye pen all our parts to check for cracks due to the difference in metal alloys being fused and their differing expansion and contraction rates. The dye we used was a uv dye and we had a high powered uv light source that'd make any crack visible from the moon.
I admire your restraint. I would have f##ked about trying to weld repair the thing then after burning $$ in consumables, went and bought a new part. Yeah, I'm a slow learner, too.
another great tool for my brainbox, a quick question though as i know my dad was fond of using these on ac rads, would you trust risking the aluminum brazing rods on one of these, i havent had much luck with them but i know they're alot more user friendly than welding
one thing to note about this kind of inspection is that magnetic particle and dye pen inspections are only able to discern things on the surface. one thing you might hear about as being a bane on welders is the xray tech who will tell you your tiktok pretty weld is about as fragile as your ego from things you cant see on the surface.
Cast is hit or miss. Clean cast aluminium welds very well. But most casts today seem to contain more dirt, slag and pores fill with crap than actual aluminium. Or maybe just those casts that regularly break and come for repair. Maybe the good ones just hold up.
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Hell, for 35 Canadian Pesos I wouldn't even have done the dye test... but this is the first time I've seen this done and I appreciate you going through it for my benefit.
I thouight he did it for your benefit too, since I would have chucked it for the newbie. No point in seeing steam up close and personal. It is a great process though.
Yep, and remember to keep the old one until the new one arrives. You may need the thermostats and the steam valve from the old one.
We do these at work all the time it's a machine shop
dye pen is great as its fast , cheap , portable and needs no power source ,,, but ,, follow the instructions on the cans exactly ,,, there is a waiting time for the dye ,,, it has to be adhered too ,,, probably was but the video was cut short for the tube
and yes , Im a ndt tech , or at least I was.
Exactly, it’s worth it for the video regardless if it’s a 35 or 3500$ part
Best candidate for the fuckit bucket I’ve seen in a long time.
Few things will have the male of the species gather around faster on the shop floor than announcing that a magnaflux test is being performed. More mesmerizing than a Three Card Monty game.
I work as a Civil Engineer in the frozen heaven hole of northern scandinavia.
Part of my duties are inspections of old an new bridges. We had one assignment checking a bridge for fatigue cracks in its steel beams, acting as ties in a tied arch bridge. Mind you this bridge is about 900m long (which is like a gazillion feet and miles) with 14 or 15 spans. And me beeing the young hungry "get 'er done" engineer suggested: Hey, lets just use penetrant and developer and all the cracks will show up clear as day.
This was an actually an idea from one of your vids, some many moons ago if I remember correctly checking a plastic part. Cant remember which BOLTR.
WELL, 2 beams + cross girders for a 900m bridge... It would've taken about 1000 cans.. And I brought 4.... Not to mention about 6weeks of work. Luckily enough for me, because of the thick brittle paint used in old bridges here most of the cracks were visible and the customer agreed to just focus on those about 0.05mm thick cracks and their lengths and monitor them for the time beeing.
First inspection was in -18, did one more -20 and just another one -22, cracks are growing, and new are forming. But the bridge still stand. Penetrating spray, or not.
So, not to be used en masse.
/Frozen mustache
What you need is an "Indian can" or a pesticide sprayer, and an inside man at the chemical company that makes the dye penetrant, lol. Have 'er done in no time.
Pretty fascinating story there 🤩
Magnetic particle inspection is far more practical on ferromagnetic materials.
That's why I love this channel, you can learn SO MUCH from the community! Cool story!
@@allanwood3562 Yeah but more suited for in situ inspections of welds and such. Using it on 900+ m of 2000mm high webs + flanges. Good, but not practical. En masse, close up and visual wins in these instances.
"Known to the state of cancer to cause California" has to be one of the most perfect lines ever uttered.
I'm a machinist in Cornwall, PA at PRL inc. We build RO pumps for different US Navy subs and the new Ford class carriers. Everything gets X-rayed and dye tested multiple times throughout the manufacturing process. Great video as always. I found you back in 2013 when I was going to school to be a machinist.
Good for you Walt
At least buying the replacement isn't the most expensive option - you could also draw up the whole thing and run off a copy on the CNC, then figure out how to move over all the extra parts...
Could waste whole weeks with that option!
All depends on whether you're paid by the hour or paid by the job.
@@axelmilan4292 😔 when youre on your own clock
I'd buy one of those made from a sensible metal, the aluminium on the flange corroding and pitting is a quite common failure on these. (A higher quality or anodized aluminium may be enough to may be good enough.)
Milling it would be more fun too, for him and for us.
From someone who occasionally Tig welds cast aluminum you’re right. Most people shouldn’t bother even if they have the setup. It can be down right frustrating especially with cheap castings you deal with these days. You’ll find yourself chasing trash half of the way through it and trying to fill it back in. I’m in the automotive field and I only do it when a part is not available or is ridiculously priced. I’ll do some wheels here and there too but they seem to be a lot better than most cast parts.
As someone who also Tig welds cast aluminum fairly often, your comment pretty much nailed it. The cheap castings that are being made now suck to weld. There is so much trash in the metal it's not funny, but even dirty castings can be welded. I would have welded Ave's part just to weld it. Trash parts are how you learn, however that part was repairable with tig welding.
As a pretty smart scrapper for over a decade, Al car wheels are either made from fresh metallurgy or recycled existing Al wheels…believe it’s called 356 Aluminum wheels in the trade.
Cast aluminum like what is used for things like this coffee water heater are prob just any old cast aluminum mix and prob a bit of quick metallurgy to try and get rid of some bad things or add good or both…or in China, prob neither. Scrap cast for consumer stuff is just whatever the scrappers bring in and all the diff recipes they find in the field.
Some of the Rockstar wheels out there are an absolute whore to weld up. I am not sure of their QC process...but I have done about 14 of them, and probably 10 have welded like complete shit. The rest welded great for some reason.
Ive had pretty good luck with alot of cast aluminum none of my stuff critically needed to be air or water tight. And I've never practiced making thing that are
I'm forcing myself to learn the AC TIG repair of cast aluminum just because of an automotive bell housing that is no longer affordable, though there is an aftermarket option now available (for the low, low price of ~$800 USD!)
Wheee, the fun of oily, dirty aluminum...
Here's a tip if you're using dye penetrant. Just spray a small amount into a cap and brush it onto the suspect area. Much less messy. If it bleeds heavily into the developer wipe it off in one direction (clean cloth) and lightly spray on more developer. There's a lot more to it than you may think btw. Old NDT technician.
I do lots of welding on pressure vessels in a shop, the cap and brush technique is how I do it as well, usually dye pen. The back of my root pass before welding the other side if the joint is getting x-ray tested or ultrasound tested
@@benoitperrault6805 yep you don't want that leaking. Bloody messy stuff.
That's how I was told to do it, although I was working on assemblies in a vehicle so overspray and cleanup was a bigger PITA. I always wondered why they sold it in the aerosols as opposed to just a jar with a brush. I guess it probably has to do with the solvent evaporating out.
Best comment section on TH-cam! Thanks for the tip
snap ,,, [lol ,,, its an old ndt mans joke]
I haven't done a dye penetrant test for 30 years, a great reminder. An early vijayo of yours, always do the easiest thing first, get on the Gargler, if it's less than $50 save yourself a headache.
The ole how to troubleshoot anything gem
Exactly...how much is your time worth and if the repair fails that will be time wasted. It only inflates the cost of replacement. Don't get me wrong I have made custom replacement parts for broken shit that a replacement part was not available for, but the savings wasn't going to be less than 40 bucks.
It's beautifully simple
It's scary to think that AvE's little sproglet, who we only saw just last month (or so it feels) wandering into the workshop and talking to daddy in the sweetest shy little girl voice, is now going to be old enough to cause uncle Bumble a little nervous twitch of the eye every time she starts a sentence with "There's this boy at school......." !
You've gotta cherish the present because this present will be the distant past in the blink of an eye.
I'm of the mind that you should hide your crack in the hardest possible location to find.
Unfortunately, my wife has really taken this advice to heart.
It's a head scratcher when grinding cheap cast aluminum parts and you see sparks. I have encountered un-weldable stuff.
2022 and we're still using a barely evolved version of Oil and Whiting. If it works, it works.
Dye Penetrant and dirty old elusive aluminum cracks were made for each other.
It vorrrrks
Still widely used in aerospace inspection on aluminum, usually fluorescent dye and UV light.
I’m glad people still know where dye pen actually came from
I mean.... grand scheme of it all, isnt ultrasound the same basic idea of tapping the part and listening with a stethoscope for the ring?
I enjoyed my years doing NDT in the USAF. I can not testify to the chemicals you used, but the cleaner/remover for Magniflux and also Met-L-Chek penetrant systems was 1,1,1, Trichloroethane, also known as Methyl Chloroform. Clean parts made for good inspections and happy inspectors.
Who woulda known that non-filleted corners would crack?
The structure is a point of safe failure. If the steam thermostat sticks, the flange cracks or deforms releasing the steam pressure into the housing instead of blowing at the top where the valve is and where the steam would blow into user hand.
@@MarekLewandowski_EE That is the designed-in failure mode?! Very cool.
@@markhooker8520 I don't think anyone has specifically designed this corner to be the point of failure at this or that pressure, but definitely the design that was easy and cheap to manufacture was tested for how it fails on overpressure. And it fails at the bottom, where the obvious stress raisers are, but way above the normal operating pressure, and it does show that the part that's easiest to replace fails (the boiler).
If it's for the Dewglaw, apply the electrician mates rate of %150 mark up. Opps I meant handling fee and environmental disposal! 😀
...or just wrap it several times with elect-chicken tape. and give 'er a whirl!
@@warped2875 That was my thought, if it holds in the angry pixies then it must be good for a bit of hot water!
Nice one. As always, thank you for both the technical and life-related protips!
Just the tips and only for minute…😉😂🤣✌️
Nothing happened?!
Good shout.
There is a very thin line between a "pressure vessel" and a really expensive pipe bomb.
I’m always a proud volunteer of the crack inspector variety.✌️
Did you get your on-line genecology degree from Yorkville University? 😜
Im a liscenced and practicing vagitarian
I have to applaud you squire!...... you truly are a master of words. Laughed so hard I missed half the vijeo..had to go back several times. Between King chuckles the terd, California's cancer and baby dolls misfortune..... what was this video about again🤔🤣
You can absolutely weld high silicone cast ally parts. It's just not fun.
First thing I usually do after grinding it out is just run the arc over the area to be welded a couple of times without filler and a good 30-40% cleaning. The first time especially you'll see all sorts of crap bubbling up out of it, but after the second or third, or sometimes fourth go for things like oil pans, it'll begin to puddle and act nicely.
At that point you can go ahead and start putting filler rod in, just pick one with a high silicone content like 4043 etc.
It's a pain in the ass, it's mostly successful but not always and for a $35 pressure vessel absolutely not worth bothering to try as a viable repair.
That said, it would be entertaining to see you fix it and then destructively test it just to see how good the repair was... No steam, just a nice steel plate to seal against and an enerpac.
Yeah.. If you are already going to throw the part away, or put it into the recast bin, and you have the tools/expendables to at least attempt a repair and you aren't being paid to repair/replace and you have the time, then it's usually a good idea to at least attempt a repair just for the pressure test and bragging rights. That being said though.. 35 dollars.. that's only worth at most an hour of your time. Any more than that and it's a waste of time/money. Would I do it? yeah, but I like to see things that I make get temp/pressure testing.
Adding a comment so I know how to weld high silica aluminum should it ever become relevant.
If that were my part, i would order the new part, then try welding it anyway because i could use the practice 😁
Yep, better to practice on junk than on something irreplaceable.
Hey AvE, your video shows how many subs you have now. We knew you had a million, but we didn't have anything to show us the number. Nice! Congratulations. KYDIAV.
Being an engine mechanic I did a lot of work with the NDI Lab in the Chair Force. Good times.
I just got to visit the AF NDI shop on the base nearby for a tour, and was amazed at a few of the inspection techniques.
The UV penetrant was amazing, but their take on magnetic inspection using the oil bath with particles in it was interesting, as was the ultrasonic inspection. (Both the single emitter testing, and the double emitter or emitter-receiver thickness testing were demonstrated.)
Casting, white powder, red coming from the cracks... I dont know about you, but to me that sounds like a recipe for becoming the strange fella at the bar no one makes eye contact with.
Finally a subject I know all about. Been doing Dye-Pen on the railway for 2 decades over in sunny England.
The manufacturer and the 1 day BS training they put us through recommend spraying the lint free rag with cleaner to wipe off the excess dye as a dry rag can pull the dye out. We do it because we don't pay for the gear but it just seems like an excuse to sell more cleaner and lint free cloth.
Not sure where you get your consumables but Pfinfer do a great water soluble LPT, then you’ll only have to carry a garden sprayer and clean rags. Not sure why Network rail request LPT because I find unless you’re in laboratory MPI gives better repeatable resolution (Material dependent). Definitely agree with that 1 day course being pretty futile especially when most inspectors have PCN and ASNT qualifications.
Not sure where you get your consumables but Pfinfer do a great water soluble LPT, then you’ll only have to carry a garden sprayer and clean rags. Not sure why Network rail request LPT because I find unless you’re in laboratory MPI gives better repeatable resolution (Material dependent). Definitely agree with that 1 day course being pretty futile especially when most inspectors have PCN and ASNT qualifications.
Not sure where you get your consumables but Pfinfer do a great water soluble LPT, then you’ll only have to carry a garden sprayer and clean rags. Not sure why Network rail request LPT because I find unless you’re in laboratory MPI gives better repeatable resolution (Material dependent). Definitely agree with that 1 day course being pretty futile especially when most inspectors have PCN and ASNT qualifications.
Learned NDI and magnaflux testing in FAA A&P school many years ago. It’s the standard for checking aircraft components for defects as well as eddy current, X-ray and ultrasound inspections
My crack inspector is Tyrone Biggums
Underrated.
Always wondered what they meant when talking engine blocks but never asked or thought to look it up.....Now I know.... Interesting, THX
Princess Auto - God bless her.
Thanks for being the dad I never had AvE
Not many dad's have this specialist knowledge
I work as a saw smith apprentice in the steel industry, we use a magnaflux to check for cracks in blades, but instead of powder we use Ardrox which is iron powder in I believe it is mineral oil or some other super low viscosity lubricating liquid which seems to work better than straight powder as it lets the powder "flow" to the cracks
The developer is also handy for locating hard to source oil leaks. Get everything nice and clean, spray the general area, run the unit, look for the wet spot.
Magnaflux makes a UV penetrant dye too, in case you like to play with black lights, under the brand name Zyglo. I never could tell the difference, but the UV one is supposed to be better for finding tight cracks, whereas the red dye is better at wide or shallow cracks.
Magnaflux products have gone downhill over the past few years but there penetrant and mag supplies are still top notch. Use this shit daily. Too bad they killed off Sonotech Couplants for Ultrasound because they were best in the buissness
I don't think the UV stuff uses developer, just a very thin capillary wicking liquid. Which is why it needs to glow.
I have found a few tight cracks innUV light. Careful if they glow before the game begins though.
I only recently got to visit an aviation NDI shop and saw a part that had been professionally prepped for UV dye penetrant.
Amazing how much of a difference the full (four stages?) process makes, and the crack showed up brilliantly on the part, while nearly impossible to see without the UV illuminator. Even scrupulously cleaned, it was near invisible to the naked eye.
He's not using a black light in the shop especially after the summer of 2021shop incident
Could be mistaken, but I recall you used to play around with Arduino's. There is an open Arduino project for these Gaggia's to give them a ton of extra features and functionality. Might be cool
Didn't know Arduino existed until AvE. Always designed and fabricated my own garbage. Their products are a bargain...
The A in AvE is for arduino... so...
The best thing about crack inspections is the high you feel when you finally find the crack!
Thanks for the tip on the dye test. Minty! That piece is scrap metal. That part is cheap enough to replace, and no worries about it splitting or breaking welds. Safety first AvE.
Thank you, I knew about the ferrous NDT but not the Spray type you showed us.
Yes - I see that the metal shavings meet in the middle, especially with the assist from the bologna pointer.
this was actually very educational, very clever ways to spot cracks in metal
Now you show me this two weeks after I needed it. I had to do a weld penetration test on multiple parts to satisfy one of my companies customers. Damn the time lag from Canada to the U.S. of A.
I could see exactly where you were going with the RV story. I'm sorry, I laughed a little. I've witnessed something similar and a laughed so much it was painful. The more my mate protested the more I laughed. It must have been 10 years before he could see the funny side. I think he even hatted me for a short time. It's been 20 years and it still makes me chuckle.
The jug-eared Chuckling King Turd jokes are lol funny mate - cheers
In airlines we use the dye pen a lot…. We use the developer spray also to check for leaks on high temp/pressure air ducts that are not viewable or covered during operation on engines..
I've done this same repair on mine. You'll need to harvest that valve and the thermostats from that one. Might ort to order another gasket for it as well while you're at it.
I appreciate the intro to NDT & respect for pressure vessels
Cool test. Thanks for the demonstration!
The family anecdote was a tin of gold. Much appreciated.
Ah, my JB Weld suggestion from last time has a chance! Beauty!
Edit: Oh well, maybe next time.
Great way to find cracks. Hope all is well.
Enjoying your repartee regarding Bonnie Charlie
I read that description as "weird Al casting" ...I was quite confused😂
Working at a ski resort we box up all the metal arms that clamp on the haul line in a crate. They all get tested for cracks using that method. Weeks of work to get them all down and weeks more to put all the chairs back up.
Looks like a fillet cast into that corner would have helped prevent the stress riser.
"We do not fuck with pressure vessels" - AvE
"You do not fuck with steam" - AvE
I've heard that the penetrating dye you used is great as penetrating oil! You should have it in a test with rusty bolts :)
an AC and reefer cargo tech for 20 odd years now. my go to solution for high silica casted pressure vessel is brazing or for fast repair I draw a vacuum, strap a cranckcase heater around the vessel and apply heat seal stick on cracks. you got your heaters there so drawing vacuum is the conundrum you have to solve.
A wise man once told me, "You should learn from your mistakes, but you should definitely learn from other people's mistakes. It's cheaper, and less painful."
I've seen the Lord of all things Metal, Mr Fenner, use this. Very effective. Cheers for the wordsalad :)
Sounds like good advise to me. Plus I cannot weld aluminum or aluminium either one. Keep on keeping on.
That workbench 😍😍😍
Feels like home 😅
Why would they make a pressure vessel square, cracked right at the corners. (I did the same thing as a young engineer and the piece I made did the same thing...)
Probably because it gives them a handy place to mount stuff, like the heating elements, steamvalve etc. I happen to have the (ancient) previous design Gaggia boiler, round and with the heating elements cast into the aluminium. Cracked in exactly the same place, right in the transition to the flange. A bit sad that they didn't really learn and add a radius there, when they redesigned these in 1980 or so.
How ancient espresso tech is still continues to amaze me, some high end machines still use the E61 group. Which was designed in 1961.
They probably didn't account for it freezing solid considering it is meant to sit on your counter.
Maybe they were goin for the more area in a square than a circle idea?
Circle/ arc strong
I think the Romans figured that out 4000 years ago....
And likely earlier in Sumatra other area....
Egypt had triangles.
They must have been too busy trying to push ropes to design a sound part.
Yup I’d have bought a new one. Long time since I’ve seen that test done. Passing on knowledge and experience. Nice
This is the kind of video I love to see here. I learned something.
Sweet action. Nice to see that procedure completed. I will keep that in my back pocket.
Love your ode to red green show!
As an ex pressure vessel engineer, good call. However, consider the value to your viewership of an attempted repair, pressure test and resultant explosive failure. Of course to be done under safe conditions. This could be a real learning experience. There are sites that specialize in such tom foolery. Cheers.
Two words.
Built in obsolescence.
Another three words.
Nice one Cyril
As an aircraft mech and have my level III certs for NDT, I gotta say that was a pretty good explanations of NDT procedures.
Love the guy, all of his intelligence boiled down to "you do not F with steam".
Hey bud, greetings from the northern shores of the Salish Sea! Left the homestead last Christmas and drained the reservoir on the ol' caffenator but didn't think to drain the boilers, besides when does the mercury dip that low on the coast. Same part, same outcome. My machine has two of those units; one for the beans and one for the cow puss. I could send you the good one or you can tell me where to find a replacement for $35. Crying shame too, I got the $900 piece of steampunk art from the neighbour for 40 bucks.
I would be interested in seeing the same tests on the new part.
Just for those that don't know, a standard espresso machine operates at 9 bar, and these are closer to 11 bar. I can imagine getting a jet of boiling 11 bars in your face when trying to make the morning coffee would be a bad day
Especially if I didn't get my coffee BEFORE getting scalded
Can ya convert that to North American measure?.?
Boiler pressure is usually a max of 1.5 bar, an electric pump makes the 9 bar brew pressure.
But you're still right, steam burns are no joke.
@@toyorover1313 the pump is in the cold water feed line, so the boiler does see the full brew pressure. This is the way with all coffee makers, there are no consumer grade pumps that would be happy operating at 100*C, also the water would get too cold before reaching the grounds
@@hedge685 150psi+
I just LOVE this chanel estiii !!!
Got the same espresso maker here at home. She's the only one to get. I don't think the design of this one will _ever_ go out of production. You learn how to run it. Citric Acid flush once a month keeps it skookum.
This seems like a perfect use case for those aluminium solder/braze rod things.
Learned someth'n new/Thx. That said, can't believe the old "roll it in flour & look for the wet spot" didn't make the final cut!
"I'm not gonna waste my $2 of tig filler rod to fix this $35 part"
-The man who fixtured and surfaced his $20 brake rotors on a bridgeport knee mill
Accidentally found a cracked injector nozzle on a little catiperkins with that stuff, the over spray got on the rearest one and revealed the tiniest fuel leak adding to the hydraulic leak from the cracked pump. Saved me a return visit
Having used this exact test on a continental aircraft engine - I approve this vijeo.
When i jobbed on railway construction sides, i was the crack inspector ... everybody who didnt pulled up their pants, got a bunch of itching powder dumped in.
My colleagues loved my so much for that, everytime i fell asleep in my car they where so friendly to wake me up with a CO2 powered signal / train horn.
"Known by the state of cancer..." I chuckled quite loud, my neighbour is probably wondering wtf is going on.
Have and used the same Crack Detection Kit for years. BTY major cracks can be found with a simple Eye Loupe.
I need to inspect some cracks
Call the plumber
Good call, like the crack detector, pretty cool.
Today I learned something. Thank you.
Very cool test!
Used this combo on every trailer with wheel spindles during the inspections required.. This stuff will show the tiniest of cracks in what looks to the naked eye as shiny, polished steel.
I used to do specialty spray hard facing where a mixture of binder metal powder and tiny carbide bb's would spray out through the flame tip of the torch and fuse onto the metal substrate, the parts were stainless steel, but the binder metal powders were different alloys and required a bunch of controlled heat treating, pre heating, and slow gradual cool down time. Long story short I had to dye pen all our parts to check for cracks due to the difference in metal alloys being fused and their differing expansion and contraction rates. The dye we used was a uv dye and we had a high powered uv light source that'd make any crack visible from the moon.
That Speak and Spell laying there has all the answers
Great video and understandable reasoning! I hope there comes more to this. Coffee mashines are interesting gadgets.
I admire your restraint. I would have f##ked about trying to weld repair the thing then after burning $$ in consumables, went and bought a new part. Yeah, I'm a slow learner, too.
Good tip. Didn't know about that stuff.
2:48 I laughed hard on that one. first time hearing that Thanks AvE
another great tool for my brainbox, a quick question though as i know my dad was fond of using these on ac rads, would you trust risking the aluminum brazing rods on one of these, i havent had much luck with them but i know they're alot more user friendly than welding
Okay self contained grinding and sifting gold machine guy
very timely as I am trying to weld the oil pan on an LS2
one thing to note about this kind of inspection is that magnetic particle and dye pen inspections are only able to discern things on the surface. one thing you might hear about as being a bane on welders is the xray tech who will tell you your tiktok pretty weld is about as fragile as your ego from things you cant see on the surface.
Cast is hit or miss. Clean cast aluminium welds very well. But most casts today seem to contain more dirt, slag and pores fill with crap than actual aluminium.
Or maybe just those casts that regularly break and come for repair. Maybe the good ones just hold up.