Thank you. Very helpful. I've got a really nice draw knife that is rusted, with deep pits. I've definitely got to get below all those deep pits otherwise the tools edge will be an elongated serrated knife hitting all the pits. I thought about flat grinding the back but it would just chew up far too much metal to go below those pits. I had the same idea to do what you are doing but I don't own a grinder so I am gonna have to tackle this task using files and sharpening stones so a longer more drawn out process with more labor. I just really want to get it back in service because it is a beautiful knife that just happens to be in bad shape.
I enjoyed this and your other video where you micro adjust the big for grinding. I wish you would answer a question for me on grinding, as it would result in a new subscriber. You've got a great style
I just bought my first drawknife. It’s a new one from Narex. What is the degree of angle I should be shooting for on the bevel? I took a protractor to it and it looks like it’s 45 degrees right now. Isn’t that too steep? Plus the back isn’t flat, it has a slight camber to it like the backbevel you put on the one in this video. Is that normal for a brand new one?
If you were going to use a drawknife primarily bevel down, would you sharpen the flat face any differently, or do you decide which way to use it based on feel and sharpen it the same? Thanks a lot for the videos, they are really helpful.
Wes, that's an excellent question. I would first determine whether the knife is comfortable in a specific orientation, then, if it seems not to fit either position, I bend the handles to make it distinctly bevel up or down
Per lavorare correttamente un lato deve essere completamente piatto o almeno avere un bisello ampio e piatto per fare da guida come in uno scalpello. Il doppio bisello fa perdere molta precisione e può servire solo per lavorare superfici concave. Per questo motivo da nuovi hanno un lato piatto e uno con il bisello. Se si usa per scavare una superfice concava si fa scorrere sul bisello, in tutti gli sltri casi si fa scorrere sul lato piatto.
Thank you. Very helpful. I've got a really nice draw knife that is rusted, with deep pits. I've definitely got to get below all those deep pits otherwise the tools edge will be an elongated serrated knife hitting all the pits. I thought about flat grinding the back but it would just chew up far too much metal to go below those pits. I had the same idea to do what you are doing but I don't own a grinder so I am gonna have to tackle this task using files and sharpening stones so a longer more drawn out process with more labor. I just really want to get it back in service because it is a beautiful knife that just happens to be in bad shape.
Great job of teaching.
Your the Best! I’d love to be your student!
I enjoyed this and your other video where you micro adjust the big for grinding. I wish you would answer a question for me on grinding, as it would result in a new subscriber. You've got a great style
I just bought my first drawknife. It’s a new one from Narex. What is the degree of angle I should be shooting for on the bevel? I took a protractor to it and it looks like it’s 45 degrees right now. Isn’t that too steep? Plus the back isn’t flat, it has a slight camber to it like the backbevel you put on the one in this video. Is that normal for a brand new one?
If you were going to use a drawknife primarily bevel down, would you sharpen the flat face any differently, or do you decide which way to use it based on feel and sharpen it the same? Thanks a lot for the videos, they are really helpful.
Wes, that's an excellent question. I would first determine whether the knife is comfortable in a specific orientation, then, if it seems not to fit either position, I bend the handles to make it distinctly bevel up or down
Thank you Peter. Helpful information.
JH
You don't like close-ups do you - why do I need to see so much of your workshop?
Thank You.
Per lavorare correttamente un lato deve essere completamente piatto o almeno avere un bisello ampio e piatto per fare da guida come in uno scalpello. Il doppio bisello fa perdere molta precisione e può servire solo per lavorare superfici concave. Per questo motivo da nuovi hanno un lato piatto e uno con il bisello. Se si usa per scavare una superfice concava si fa scorrere sul bisello, in tutti gli sltri casi si fa scorrere sul lato piatto.