What a great illustration of the workings of a 7.3L. I’m a new owner of a 7.3L and knew nothing and literally fill more confident about my motor and my personal knowledge while working on this motor now. Thank you for taking the time to make this and sharing this. Very helpful!
Dude… you gotta finish the series. Great info, now tell me how this oil pressure plays a part with the fuel injectors. Great info so far. I just learned a ton!
Damn brother very well explained. Own an 02 7.3 for 15 yrs do all my own wrenching and ur video taught me a whole lot more than any other vid. Thanks brother. Surely appreciate ur knowing and ability to simplify thing. GREAT WORK thanks again!!!’
One of the best explanations I've seen on the 7.3L operation. It's always nice to know how it works when it's time to diagnose and repair your equipment. Thanks for sharing. Best wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Man I needed this video I’ve worked with 302’s and ls1 motors but always wanted an f250 7.3 so I bought one but looking under the hood I feel like a moon again so this is just what I needed!
GREAT STUFF!! Another common use for the swashplate is your standard gardn tractor hydrostatic trans. Only thing different is the swash is adjustable whereas the hpop is fixed. Dude. this is awesome. on to video 3.
Thank you for taking the time to make all these videos !! Invaluable for getting up to speed on my project .. I feel like I should pay you for a powerstroke degree !! 🤔 😜
Amazing video. Really enjoying this style of content. Having a better understanding of how something works gives way to educated approach to fixing or improving its functionality. Thanks for your time
That was and is an excellent video and explanation. Thanks for taking the time to do that I'm sure many people like myself finally come across this and then have a very clear understanding of how it all works together
Dude thank you so much, a very well illustration- explanation. I am about to change my pump to an Adrenaline and the oil lines including the cross line.👍
Probably the best damn video I've seen explaining how the system works, GREAT F'ING WORK. Hey my rear plug is leaking bad, I've got new O-rings. I haven't fixed it yet because I've had a stroke so my brain and left arm have issues lol. Is there something that I can use on the threads of the plug so I don't have to let it sit for a day before I drive my truck. HEELLLLLLLLLLP!!
This is awesome info and all your videos help me alot i look forward to knowing about the idm and also info on bad injectors, glow plugs and even bad valva cover gaskets harnesses and how they all play a roll in trucks like ours
I appreciate the input and the added ideas for videos! We're starting to get pretty deep into the functionality of the 7.3, and it's going to take me a bit more research to really understand everything myself. I'll do my best!
Totally great video. I am trying to find out why I don't have voltage to my injectors. I would like to know the chain of components from the injectors back to the ecm if that is the two ends?
Another great video. Keep up the good work. A lot of trash trucks use a variable swash plate piston pump, that way you keep the pressure and control the volume. That way you don't have the heat build up problem. Also hydrostatic drive systems use the variable swash plate.
Thanks Cbmech! Man a variable swashplate would be great. I'd like to see how they mechanically accomplish that feat; I'm sure it makes for a more efficient design.
@@Rnddiesel the variable swash plate has piston on side of the pump casting that moves the plate from zero to full displacement . They are more complicated so more expensive . It depends on application whether the cost makes sense . Hydrostatic drive? Definitely . Trash trucks (side loaders) probably . Other applications are kind of a maybe . I even have a vague memory of a variable vane pump . I'm not sure how that works but I would assume that you would move the stator ring side to side . Not sure how well that would hold up under heavy use .
The other consideration with a piston pump is how clean you can keep the oil . The only seal on the pistons is metal to metal so it doesn't take much grit to wipe them out . Clearance is probably 1/10,000th of an inch . Like an injector .
@@cbmech2563 Interesting point on the variable swashplate pump. I think I see now how that would work. The nice thing about oil though is that it's typically more viscous that diesel fuel, so that gives you more room for looser tolerances than say a diesel fuel injector. Either way the tolerances are ridiculous. I have a hard enough time keeping within 5 thou on my lathe!
@@Rnddiesel On the old Cat capsule injectors the clearance was so tight that if it was dry the sweat and salt on your hands would lock the plunger in the barrel. I saw that happen when I was an operating engineer apprentice mechanic.
Thank you for you video it gives good info. I have a question and hope you can help me, I installed a high idle switch to my F550 2002 7.3 automatic truck, when I drive it and park it, I turn on the switch it turns on and it works. The next morning I start the truck I wait to warm it up (5min) I turn on the switch it doesn't turn on. BUT I take it for a drive just around the block and than park it, I turn on the switch and it works. Can you give me an idea what it may be occurring? Hope to hear from you soon. thanks!
I would love to know a little more about the icp. Like why does my truck have more power when it's unplugged. I bought a new one and put on the truck and I still had a power issue. Unplugged it and the truck runs amazing.
That's an indicator that your icp (injection control pressure) sensor is bad. This is the sensor on the drivers' side cylinder head you're talking about right? The ICP sensor measures oil pressure in the oil rails for firing the injectors. Then the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) is used to moderate and control that pressure based on what the ICP is reading. When you unplug the ICP sensor, the truck goes into an open loop mode where it assumes pressure is 700 psi and it should also throw a check engine light. If the ICP sensor is reading wrong it'll cause the IPR to not operate properly. It sounds like you may have an electrical issue with the ICP sensor? Did you get a new Motorcraft ICP sensor or an aftermarket one? Motorcraft or International Navistar is the only way to go for these 7.3's if you don't want to fool around with crummy sensors. I'd definitely try and get this issue fixed as soon as possible, don't drive too much with the ICP sensor unplugged. What year is your truck? If it's 1996 and up a live scan tool like a Scan Gauge 2 would really be useful to help with troubleshooting here as well. Hope this helps, let me know what you find out!
Amazing explanation. Here’s my question. I’ve researched this system a lot, and sources always say the HEUI system is outdated. I know that the 6.0 and some cat motors used it, but why was it ultimately replaced by common rail injection systems. Also, does Cummins still use the injection pump system or are they common rail. I wonder if engineers could modify the HEUI system to make it competitive in modern diesels or if it’s something that’s just outdated like carburetors or point ignitiob
I'm reasonably confident that Cummins diesels use common rail injection nowadays, at least the light duty 6.7 diesel does. I'm not so sure about their other industrial variants though. As for the demise of the HEUI system, I think a lot of it has to do with the lack of responsiveness compared to a common rail system. I'm sure you could make a variation of the HEUI system just as good as a common rail, but it's probably more expensive and complicated than just making a common rail system. I think at least part of the issue resides in the fact that HEUI injectors naturally have a relatively heavy intensifier piston setup inside by nature that has a lot of inertia which limits the response time of the injector. Modern common rail injectors typically inject fuel upwards of a dozen times per combustion occurrence where the fuel is sprayed into the chamber, stopped and flow started again multiples times as the piston goes downward on the power stroke. This is primarily done to limit emissions. When you're asking a fuel injector to respond so fast it gets difficult to do with a clunky intensifier piston and spool valve setup like the 6.0's had. It may not sound like much, but doing some quick math an engine running at 3000 RPM and with 10 individual injection events per power stroke, your injector needs to be able to react in under 1 millisecond or 0.001 seconds. This is probably not physically possible to do with a HEUI system. Common rail systems are just incredible when it comes to response time, and gives engine tuners way more control. I'm afraid that in the quest for both more power and lower emissions, the HEUI system has gone by the wayside with the Carburetor.
Do you change your HPOP oil like power stroke help says or do you trust Internationals design that it should cycle through? Another phenomenal video by the way!
Thank you! To answer your question, yes, I'm one of those weirdos who changes HPOP oil when I get the chance. Every time I do, the oil is clearly much darker and aged relative to the rest of the oil in the engine. Fresh oil does make its way up there, but there is still a settling point in the HPOP reservoir that serves as a stagnation point for oil that never gets drained otherwise. I know every design is a compromise too, and besides, if you went to school with some of the folks who call themselves 'engineers,' you'd probably look under the hood more often too!
@@Rnddiesel I would go ahead and change a quart in the HPOP reservoir at least every 35K. The first time I checked it the odometer read 125k and that oil must have been half motor oil and the other half must have been diesel blow by. It was that watery. It is the highest point on the engine; so, just like a distilling column. The thinnest oil makes it way to the top.
@@norman_sage2528 I just put in a request for 2 oil analysis kits from Blackstone Labs. I'm hoping the next time I do my oil change, I can send in a sample of both the hpop oil and regular engine oil as well.
I started changing the hpop oil after I saw your video on changing the injectors. I remember you saying you changed your oil 500 miles before you removed the injectors. Your engine oil was clean but the oil in the rail was dark as night.
Very informative. Doesn't help my situation. Just did a reseal on my hpop. Got it all back together and took a few cranks to start but it started. Truck would fire right up before replacing all the seals. Now every time I go out to start it and even if I turned it of 5 minutes prior I have to crank it a few times before it even starts. I did accidently torque the tin nut down to 58 ft lbs at which point in the process the nut just broke. Grabbed the wrong torque wrench instead of my inch. Would that have destroyed the ipr and cause this issue?
Hi thanks for these good videos. I have got a 97 ford f250 7.3 power stroke and my oil temperature gauge does not seem to be working fine .it only goes up a quarter instead of going half way to the midle. Plus sometimes when i am driving it drops back behind the white lines sometimes.any help on this would be great .thanks
Great video. Just like to know alitte more about how oil goes from the pan upto the reservoir to the hpop. And does the oil stay in the reservoir or flow back down? Also the oil in the rail doesn't get circulated?
Oil is sucked up through the pan pick up tube, through the lube pump mounted to the timing cover behind the crankshaft pulley/damper. After exiting the lube pump the oil flows through a gallery in the timing cover to the HPOP reservoir. Oil is held in the reservoir with the engine off. There are different timing cover and HPOP designs on early models, and if parts are mismatched, drainback will occur resulting in long crank times to refill the reservoir and feed the HPOP. Oil in the rails remains at all times, it does "circulate" to some extent when the injectors fire and the oil exits the spill port of the injector and returns to the pan.
Cool man, who would have known how those pumps work . Not like anyone would try to take one apart when trading there core in. Not sure if I have a real weak pump on mine, but I want to pull the trigger and get the adrenaline pump eventually 💪🏻⚡️
Rnddiesel haven't got it yet, I have stock injectors .diesels nowadays have very high common rail fuel pressures and lower compression than 7.3s. Did. Seems like better atomization would definitely make power and mileage. Did notice a huge difference when I got turbo master wastegate of all the mods I've done
@@805coastin7 Gotcha, I just don't know what the real difference is with the Adrenaline HPOP since your oil pressure is controlled by the ECM anyway. I'm sure it's capable of flowing more oil though. Well let me know when you get the new HPOP on there! Haha, I wouldn't know anything about wastegates. My OBS doesn't have one and needs all the help it can get to spool the turbo (though I think that's why you have a wastegated turbo...).
Great Video! I would like to know what the check valves in the HPOP do. What happens if the check ball behind in NSP is missing, or not in the right place. Will that cause long cranking starts, and rough running, or is that just to stop the reservoir from draining back to the oil pan when not running? What is the other check ball for. I replaced the seals on my pump, and now I get long cranking starts, and rough running. I also replaced all the external o-rings on the drivers side injectors hoping to fix a cold no start (40F and below) turned out was the GP relay. Pretty sure the issue is HPO pressure. going to put a scanner on to see if I can get a reading on the HPO pressure. Also going to check the IPR again, before pulling the pump again.
Purchased new Dieselsite Adrenaline HPOP for my 2003 F350. Currently my HPOP will hit 1700psi @ WOT then drops off. Replaced IPR & ICP. Can't find any leaks. Any troubleshooting ideas?
Awesome part 2 video and I love the level of detail. After troubleshooting the P1211 and I didn't think there was much more to learn but I was dead wrong. Found the issue causing the low ICP and high IPR. The new IPR I installed was defective and leaking (I replaced both the ICP sensor and IPR valve at the same time). I threw the old valve back in and the truck works just fine. Lesson learned, buy parts from reputable sources. New problem just discovered. Truck doesn't sound right when I accelerate and wiggles more than normal when at idle. I did a buzz test and injector 3 didn't buzz, and got P1273 and P1298 codes. I've heard that this could be due to an air pocket in the high pressure oil system. Do you recommend waiting a few dozen miles to see if it resolves itself?
I'm glad to hear you were able to fix the IPR issue! It really stinks that your new one was bad. It sounds like you might have a bad injector harness or two now. Best of luck with the truck!
does anyone knows where to get a new metal check ball that goes in the nonservisable port near the IPR.? I seem to have lost mine while changing seals. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Please help, we just replaced injectors with baby swamps in a 1996. Now we have to crank for a long time or spray either to get it to start. Is it possible an injector o-ring didn't seat correctly and now the oil pressure is low? Supposedly we can use the stock pump on these injectors. Ran fine before injector swap. No codes just needed new injectors due to age (215,000 miles on stock) thoughts?
It is possible an o-ring got messed up on installation. How many miles have you run the truck? It can take a while as well for all the air to get out of the system. Mine took probably 2 solid minutes of cranking before it fired up, but once everything primed and air gradually bled out of the system it worked much better. If you have a tool like a scan gauge 2 which I've got a video on my channel for that, it'll allow you to monitor your oil rail pressure and injection pressure regulator duty cycle. That will help to determine if you've got a high pressure oil leak or not.
@@Rnddiesel we received a bad set of swamps which is why we had issues. Without power to the injectors, we were getting oil out of the oil ports on the injectors when cranking signaling that they had a bad valve in the injector.
@@carstrucksboats That really stinks, I'm sorry to hear that! I appreciate you following up, that's the first I've heard of that happening. I hope you were able to get a new good set, though I'm sure it wasn't fun having to do all the work over again.
Awe man, you're really putting the pressure on! I'll get it out as soon as I can. I have some traveling for work coming up, so that throws a wrench in things. What did you think of part 2?
@@Rnddiesel just as interesting and useful as part 1. I have a playlist of 7.3 videos because im shopping around for one so im saving videos like yours for references
@@johnwythe1409 Copy that - just making sure. I don't see why it would be a problem just make sure you put a good coating of fresh oil on the moving parts when things go back together. You may want to be careful with any plastic parts though. Brake cleaner usually contains solvents like acetone that will dissolve the plastic. Metal part should be fine though.
I was ripped off by a popular diesel truck dealership. Don't let it happen to you. Please visit Diesel-Deals-Scam.com By the way, Love Rnddiesel, I have learned so much from you... Thank you...
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I don't know who you are, or where you came from.. but the world owes you a debt of gratitude sir.
What a great illustration of the workings of a 7.3L. I’m a new owner of a 7.3L and knew nothing and literally fill more confident about my motor and my personal knowledge while working on this motor now. Thank you for taking the time to make this and sharing this. Very helpful!
Dude… you gotta finish the series. Great info, now tell me how this oil pressure plays a part with the fuel injectors. Great info so far. I just learned a ton!
dude, you're brilliant. I love how in depth you go on these. KEEP IT UP!
Needs to be a part 3. Part 4 on the overall engine of the 1997 7.3 PSDI please! Great info
Very well explained most cannot explain basic operation without somehow creating more questions and answers. Well done.
That was really cool thanks I've never had it shown like this but in my mind I new thats how it worked only took me 26 years of doing it !!
Thanks for saving me years of college to find out what I need!
Damn brother very well explained. Own an 02 7.3 for 15 yrs do all my own wrenching and ur video taught me a whole lot more than any other vid. Thanks brother. Surely appreciate ur knowing and ability to simplify thing. GREAT WORK thanks again!!!’
One of the best explanations I've seen on the 7.3L operation. It's always nice to know how it works when it's time to diagnose and repair your equipment. Thanks for sharing. Best wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Good description of the function of the IPC pin.
Fantastic explanation and illustrations!
Dude sick video I just have done some work to my 7.3 2001 but with this video it really helped me understand how it does it’s job hahah CRAZY
Fantastic. I just got my first 7.3 diesel. I was lost ... not anymore.
Excellent video, excellent drawings and excellent explanations.
Arguably the best explanation video of information on the 7.3 out there. Thanks for the help brother
Man I needed this video I’ve worked with 302’s and ls1 motors but always wanted an f250 7.3 so I bought one but looking under the hood I feel like a moon again so this is just what I needed!
wow, incredible illustrations and awesome detail! 👍🏿
Awesome video here and very in depth!
Young man, great job! love your videos.
Fantastic video. Thanks for making it.
GREAT STUFF!! Another common use for the swashplate is your standard gardn tractor hydrostatic trans. Only thing different is the swash is adjustable whereas the hpop is fixed. Dude. this is awesome. on to video 3.
Great teaching video! Thank you
part 3? where is it.......we needs it......
damn good video sir.
Keep it up bro! Looking forward to the next video 👍👍👍
Thank you for taking the time to make all these videos !! Invaluable for getting up to speed on my project .. I feel like I should pay you for a powerstroke degree !! 🤔 😜
Amazing video. Really enjoying this style of content. Having a better understanding of how something works gives way to educated approach to fixing or improving its functionality. Thanks for your time
That was and is an excellent video and explanation. Thanks for taking the time to do that I'm sure many people like myself finally come across this and then have a very clear understanding of how it all works together
Dude thank you so much, a very well illustration- explanation. I am about to change my pump to an Adrenaline and the oil lines including the cross line.👍
Very informative. Thank you
Probably the best damn video I've seen explaining how the system works, GREAT F'ING WORK.
Hey my rear plug is leaking bad, I've got new O-rings. I haven't fixed it yet because I've had a stroke so my brain and left arm have issues lol.
Is there something that I can use on the threads of the plug so I don't have to let it sit for a day before I drive my truck.
HEELLLLLLLLLLP!!
This is awesome info and all your videos help me alot i look forward to knowing about the idm and also info on bad injectors, glow plugs and even bad valva cover gaskets harnesses and how they all play a roll in trucks like ours
I appreciate the input and the added ideas for videos! We're starting to get pretty deep into the functionality of the 7.3, and it's going to take me a bit more research to really understand everything myself. I'll do my best!
wow this video is amazing! Thanks for this
Perfect explanation. Give us an idea of where and how much on the scan gauge. I can see that being valuable info when problems arise.
Amazing videos please make more
Totally great video. I am trying to find out why I don't have voltage to my injectors. I would like to know the chain of components from the injectors back to the ecm if that is the two ends?
I have had college teachers who were no where near this good at explaining things
Great video!
Please recommend a consumer grade Code scanner that does what yours did on the podcast. Thank you very much.
Great video. Thanks for explaining!
Good job looking forward to the next video👍👍👍
Good job thanks for sharing
Brilliant! Great video, excellent content, wealth of n
Knowledge sharing. Thank you
Another great video. Keep up the good work.
A lot of trash trucks use a variable swash plate piston pump, that way you keep the pressure and control the volume. That way you don't have the heat build up problem. Also hydrostatic drive systems use the variable swash plate.
Thanks Cbmech! Man a variable swashplate would be great. I'd like to see how they mechanically accomplish that feat; I'm sure it makes for a more efficient design.
@@Rnddiesel the variable swash plate has piston on side of the pump casting that moves the plate from zero to full displacement . They are more complicated so more expensive . It depends on application whether the cost makes sense . Hydrostatic drive? Definitely . Trash trucks (side loaders) probably . Other applications are kind of a maybe . I even have a vague memory of a variable vane pump . I'm not sure how that works but I would assume that you would move the stator ring side to side . Not sure how well that would hold up under heavy use .
The other consideration with a piston pump is how clean you can keep the oil . The only seal on the pistons is metal to metal so it doesn't take much grit to wipe them out . Clearance is probably 1/10,000th of an inch . Like an injector .
@@cbmech2563 Interesting point on the variable swashplate pump. I think I see now how that would work. The nice thing about oil though is that it's typically more viscous that diesel fuel, so that gives you more room for looser tolerances than say a diesel fuel injector. Either way the tolerances are ridiculous. I have a hard enough time keeping within 5 thou on my lathe!
@@Rnddiesel On the old Cat capsule injectors the clearance was so tight that if it was dry the sweat and salt on your hands would lock the plunger in the barrel. I saw that happen when I was an operating engineer apprentice mechanic.
Awesome videos I love the details
wow what a smart young man...
Great video!!!
Thanks for the video! Look forward to part 3
Another great video!!!
Well done man
Bro thank you for this channel!!!!
The low pressure oil pump on a 7.3l powerstroke is behind the harmonic balancer on the outside of the block, its driven by the crankshaft.
Thank you for you video it gives good info. I have a question and hope you can help me, I installed a high idle switch to my F550 2002 7.3 automatic truck, when I drive it and park it, I turn on the switch it turns on and it works. The next morning I start the truck I wait to warm it up (5min) I turn on the switch it doesn't turn on. BUT I take it for a drive just around the block and than park it, I turn on the switch and it works. Can you give me an idea what it may be occurring? Hope to hear from you soon. thanks!
I would love to know a little more about the icp. Like why does my truck have more power when it's unplugged. I bought a new one and put on the truck and I still had a power issue. Unplugged it and the truck runs amazing.
That's an indicator that your icp (injection control pressure) sensor is bad. This is the sensor on the drivers' side cylinder head you're talking about right? The ICP sensor measures oil pressure in the oil rails for firing the injectors. Then the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) is used to moderate and control that pressure based on what the ICP is reading. When you unplug the ICP sensor, the truck goes into an open loop mode where it assumes pressure is 700 psi and it should also throw a check engine light. If the ICP sensor is reading wrong it'll cause the IPR to not operate properly. It sounds like you may have an electrical issue with the ICP sensor? Did you get a new Motorcraft ICP sensor or an aftermarket one? Motorcraft or International Navistar is the only way to go for these 7.3's if you don't want to fool around with crummy sensors. I'd definitely try and get this issue fixed as soon as possible, don't drive too much with the ICP sensor unplugged. What year is your truck? If it's 1996 and up a live scan tool like a Scan Gauge 2 would really be useful to help with troubleshooting here as well. Hope this helps, let me know what you find out!
Good video
Amazing explanation. Here’s my question. I’ve researched this system a lot, and sources always say the HEUI system is outdated. I know that the 6.0 and some cat motors used it, but why was it ultimately replaced by common rail injection systems. Also, does Cummins still use the injection pump system or are they common rail. I wonder if engineers could modify the HEUI system to make it competitive in modern diesels or if it’s something that’s just outdated like carburetors or point ignitiob
I'm reasonably confident that Cummins diesels use common rail injection nowadays, at least the light duty 6.7 diesel does. I'm not so sure about their other industrial variants though. As for the demise of the HEUI system, I think a lot of it has to do with the lack of responsiveness compared to a common rail system. I'm sure you could make a variation of the HEUI system just as good as a common rail, but it's probably more expensive and complicated than just making a common rail system. I think at least part of the issue resides in the fact that HEUI injectors naturally have a relatively heavy intensifier piston setup inside by nature that has a lot of inertia which limits the response time of the injector. Modern common rail injectors typically inject fuel upwards of a dozen times per combustion occurrence where the fuel is sprayed into the chamber, stopped and flow started again multiples times as the piston goes downward on the power stroke. This is primarily done to limit emissions. When you're asking a fuel injector to respond so fast it gets difficult to do with a clunky intensifier piston and spool valve setup like the 6.0's had. It may not sound like much, but doing some quick math an engine running at 3000 RPM and with 10 individual injection events per power stroke, your injector needs to be able to react in under 1 millisecond or 0.001 seconds. This is probably not physically possible to do with a HEUI system. Common rail systems are just incredible when it comes to response time, and gives engine tuners way more control. I'm afraid that in the quest for both more power and lower emissions, the HEUI system has gone by the wayside with the Carburetor.
Awesome
Nice work buddy!
Do you change your HPOP oil like power stroke help says or do you trust Internationals design that it should cycle through?
Another phenomenal video by the way!
Thank you! To answer your question, yes, I'm one of those weirdos who changes HPOP oil when I get the chance. Every time I do, the oil is clearly much darker and aged relative to the rest of the oil in the engine. Fresh oil does make its way up there, but there is still a settling point in the HPOP reservoir that serves as a stagnation point for oil that never gets drained otherwise. I know every design is a compromise too, and besides, if you went to school with some of the folks who call themselves 'engineers,' you'd probably look under the hood more often too!
@@Rnddiesel
I would go ahead and change a quart in the HPOP reservoir at least every 35K. The first time I checked it the odometer read 125k and that oil must have been half motor oil and the other half must have been diesel blow by.
It was that watery. It is the highest point on the engine; so, just like a distilling column. The thinnest oil makes it way to the top.
@@norman_sage2528 I just put in a request for 2 oil analysis kits from Blackstone Labs. I'm hoping the next time I do my oil change, I can send in a sample of both the hpop oil and regular engine oil as well.
Rnddiesel
That would be a really cool video and results to see, I don’t know if anyone has done that on TH-cam.
I started changing the hpop oil after I saw your video on changing the injectors. I remember you saying you changed your oil 500 miles before you removed the injectors. Your engine oil was clean but the oil in the rail was dark as night.
Very informative. Doesn't help my situation. Just did a reseal on my hpop. Got it all back together and took a few cranks to start but it started. Truck would fire right up before replacing all the seals. Now every time I go out to start it and even if I turned it of 5 minutes prior I have to crank it a few times before it even starts. I did accidently torque the tin nut down to 58 ft lbs at which point in the process the nut just broke. Grabbed the wrong torque wrench instead of my inch. Would that have destroyed the ipr and cause this issue?
Hi thanks for these good videos.
I have got a 97 ford f250 7.3 power stroke and my oil temperature gauge does not seem to be working fine .it only goes up a quarter instead of going half way to the midle.
Plus sometimes when i am driving it drops back behind the white lines sometimes.any help on this would be great .thanks
Is it a sudden drop back down below the white lines or is it more gradual?
Great video. Just like to know alitte more about how oil goes from the pan upto the reservoir to the hpop. And does the oil stay in the reservoir or flow back down? Also the oil in the rail doesn't get circulated?
Oil is sucked up through the pan pick up tube, through the lube pump mounted to the timing cover behind the crankshaft pulley/damper. After exiting the lube pump the oil flows through a gallery in the timing cover to the HPOP reservoir. Oil is held in the reservoir with the engine off. There are different timing cover and HPOP designs on early models, and if parts are mismatched, drainback will occur resulting in long crank times to refill the reservoir and feed the HPOP. Oil in the rails remains at all times, it does "circulate" to some extent when the injectors fire and the oil exits the spill port of the injector and returns to the pan.
Cool man, who would have known how those pumps work . Not like anyone would try to take one apart when trading there core in.
Not sure if I have a real weak pump on mine, but I want to pull the trigger and get the adrenaline pump eventually 💪🏻⚡️
Seems like they could have had a hydraulic oil system separate from the engines motor oil contaminates
Nice, a new HPOP! Do you notice any difference with the adrenaline over the stock pump?
Rnddiesel haven't got it yet, I have stock injectors .diesels nowadays have very high common rail fuel pressures and lower compression than 7.3s. Did. Seems like better atomization would definitely make power and mileage. Did notice a huge difference when I got turbo master wastegate of all the mods I've done
@@805coastin7 Gotcha, I just don't know what the real difference is with the Adrenaline HPOP since your oil pressure is controlled by the ECM anyway. I'm sure it's capable of flowing more oil though. Well let me know when you get the new HPOP on there! Haha, I wouldn't know anything about wastegates. My OBS doesn't have one and needs all the help it can get to spool the turbo (though I think that's why you have a wastegated turbo...).
Rnddiesel good point about the Ecm , probably b fine with a stock pump, some marketing hype there
Great Video! I would like to know what the check valves in the HPOP do.
What happens if the check ball behind in NSP is missing, or not in the right place. Will that cause long cranking starts, and rough running, or is that just to stop the reservoir from draining back to the oil pan when not running? What is the other check ball for. I replaced the seals on my pump, and now I get long cranking starts, and rough running. I also replaced all the external o-rings on the drivers side injectors hoping to fix a cold no start (40F and below) turned out was the GP relay. Pretty sure the issue is HPO pressure. going to put a scanner on to see if I can get a reading on the HPO pressure. Also going to check the IPR again, before pulling the pump again.
Check diesel tech Ron video on hpop he talks about the check ball. Maybe it’ll help you
@@paulk7390 Thanks. I will. Mine is working now. Guess it just had to purge all the air from the oil rail. took a 30 min trip to town and back.
Need part 3!!
If you in WA , OR states I would like to bring my Excursion to you for full diagnostic.
If anybody deserves a Noble Peace Prize more than Obama, it’s you my man!!!
Purchased new Dieselsite Adrenaline HPOP for my 2003 F350. Currently my HPOP will hit 1700psi @ WOT then drops off. Replaced IPR & ICP. Can't find any leaks. Any troubleshooting ideas?
Thanks
Why the hpop is so loud? If there any way to quiet?
Parts 3+ please!!
Runs with or without ICP plugged in.
Do you do these drawings yourself?
Yep I sure do, it takes a while and lots of pictures but is faster than using some animation software!
Awesome part 2 video and I love the level of detail. After troubleshooting the P1211 and I didn't think there was much more to learn but I was dead wrong. Found the issue causing the low ICP and high IPR. The new IPR I installed was defective and leaking (I replaced both the ICP sensor and IPR valve at the same time). I threw the old valve back in and the truck works just fine. Lesson learned, buy parts from reputable sources.
New problem just discovered. Truck doesn't sound right when I accelerate and wiggles more than normal when at idle. I did a buzz test and injector 3 didn't buzz, and got P1273 and P1298 codes. I've heard that this could be due to an air pocket in the high pressure oil system. Do you recommend waiting a few dozen miles to see if it resolves itself?
I'm glad to hear you were able to fix the IPR issue! It really stinks that your new one was bad. It sounds like you might have a bad injector harness or two now. Best of luck with the truck!
does anyone knows where to get a new metal check ball that goes in the nonservisable port near the IPR.? I seem to have lost mine while changing seals. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Please help, we just replaced injectors with baby swamps in a 1996. Now we have to crank for a long time or spray either to get it to start. Is it possible an injector o-ring didn't seat correctly and now the oil pressure is low? Supposedly we can use the stock pump on these injectors. Ran fine before injector swap. No codes just needed new injectors due to age (215,000 miles on stock) thoughts?
It is possible an o-ring got messed up on installation. How many miles have you run the truck? It can take a while as well for all the air to get out of the system. Mine took probably 2 solid minutes of cranking before it fired up, but once everything primed and air gradually bled out of the system it worked much better. If you have a tool like a scan gauge 2 which I've got a video on my channel for that, it'll allow you to monitor your oil rail pressure and injection pressure regulator duty cycle. That will help to determine if you've got a high pressure oil leak or not.
@@Rnddiesel we received a bad set of swamps which is why we had issues. Without power to the injectors, we were getting oil out of the oil ports on the injectors when cranking signaling that they had a bad valve in the injector.
@@carstrucksboats That really stinks, I'm sorry to hear that! I appreciate you following up, that's the first I've heard of that happening. I hope you were able to get a new good set, though I'm sure it wasn't fun having to do all the work over again.
how can i contact you?
Now I know ...TY
When is part 3 going to come out???
Awe man, you're really putting the pressure on! I'll get it out as soon as I can. I have some traveling for work coming up, so that throws a wrench in things. What did you think of part 2?
@@Rnddiesel just as interesting and useful as part 1. I have a playlist of 7.3 videos because im shopping around for one so im saving videos like yours for references
@@anthonypeltier4039 Alright sounds good, and best of luck with the truck shopping!
@@Rnddiesel you keep making videos ai won't need luck 💪💪💪
Can cleaning the HPOP with gas or parts cleaner ruin the pump?
Are you asking about putting gas or parts cleaner in the oil for the HPOP or disassembling things then cleaning the individual components?
@@Rnddiesel The latter. When disassembled. Would never think of doing the other.
@@johnwythe1409 Copy that - just making sure. I don't see why it would be a problem just make sure you put a good coating of fresh oil on the moving parts when things go back together. You may want to be careful with any plastic parts though. Brake cleaner usually contains solvents like acetone that will dissolve the plastic. Metal part should be fine though.
👍..!
Can anyone help me out on My 7.3 issue
Translation: These are professionals, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR YOUR 7.3L AT HOME. CONTACT YOUR LOCAL CERTIFIED MECHANIC….🤯
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By the way, Love Rnddiesel, I have learned so much from you... Thank you...
Part 3 yes !!!!! NOW !!! 🤣🤣
Great video!