It's about time! This should revolutionize all the millions of folks living in condos where they are not allowed to put in a Split heat pump, or it is prohibitively expensive to do so. In vancouver a couple was quoted $25,000 to put in a heat pump for the 600 square foot condo! nuts.
@@davidcameron2366 Vancouver (assuming they're referring to the city) probably drops under 30F less than 20 nights a year most years. Can't depend on it as exclusive heat source, but it is an efficient way to keep the cold at bay most of the year.
We have two of these and can confirm the vibration and noise. The noise can be reduced a bit with some insulating foam around the unit and a good whack if the fan is making a noise (some kind of misalignment?), but the vibration is still a major concern.
I thought Medea only had the u-shaped that comes up around the window, not downward. Please share model numbers if you have for their saddle. Thank you.
Midea has a U shaped window ac but it does not offer heat yet. Now we have a U shaped window ac with heat, next we need both Midea and Soleus to offer U shaped Window ac with heat as a heat pump so they can get that SEER up to about 20
Our family wants to thank you for making a video about Daikin air purifiers. A product that works!Also, we've been updating our new hvac system. We really do appreciate your input! God bless.
Not a word about drainage? The drawback to the saddle design -- as compared to the U shaped -- is that water from the coils can't flow out. So it is bound to have some kind of collector.
At low current draw like this, there is no provision for auxiliary (resistive electric) heat. The heat pump will only function well down to about 40 degrees F. Outside Air Temperature. Then it starts 'making ice cubes' below that ambient temp., and gets stuck in the defrost cycle. Thanks for the review
Anyone that has owned any window unit knows the one thing you fail to talk about, which is ease of cleaning in place... So many of these units are designed to fail the moment the fins get dirty but no one makes these things to be cleaned without full window removal, and it's a major PITA. It makes you wonder why they don't design a commercial unit to be cleaned regularly with out removing the entire unit and disassembled...
Yeah, would have been nice if he had addressed that. Maybe did a little investigation before hand, trying to find a few unhappy customers to ask them why they returned it. Eh, maybe he'll do a proper review in a few months when it doesn't heat well enough in the winter or breaks down prematurely 🤷♀️
I noticed a flaw in the filter design, there is a wide gap between the two filters. Dust gonna go there. I too am waiting on the Midea version as I can't use a "hang below" type of unit.
Well, when I was in the Navy in the late 70's, the ship I was on, USS Durham LKA 114, , I was in engineering and our living space was 1 deck below the main deck separated from the engine room by a steel plate floor. Needless to say, it was still loud and the vibrations, Then when I was with forestry for my career, I went out in a strike team to Angeles National forest 1996, They gave us a nice 1 acre or so mowed area with a nice big huge portable generator. 🙂 that was only 50 ft or so from our group pitched in tents and sleeping bags. You would be amazed how easily you fall asleep when you are exhausted and how quickly your body adapts to the noise that you don't even realize that it's on. I would not have told this with my real name. I never boast of anything. So this makes no difference. MY Point, you can adapt to most constant noises quickly. CONSTANT steady. NOT a dog barking or cat's fightings. that is not a constant sound like a humming sound or air conditioner. sorry for the story. steady noise is easy. 🙂thanks.
This is npt a new product. In real worlds this are still not how they male them seem. My 2 year old unit same this guy is reviewing is not working near as good as when I bought it. 1 day review of course is going to sound great but give it some time my friend. It Wont cool or heat properly and yes filters have been cleaned. constanlty.
Did they have defrost functions? I am very concerned, because I have tested a few portable air conditioners with heat pump functionality, but none of them seem to even attempt a defrost, so they freeze solid and are useless in temperatures below about 55F.
In my younger days I worked part-time for an HVAC/Building Maintenance company. The formen conducted the task of providing estimates to residential customers. They told me that management prohibited the use of ANY Friedrich equipment. The reason I was told was too many, and various, customer complaints, too many repeated service return calls and warranty problems. I did meet several people who were very satisfied with their existing Friedrich systems so who knows. I'm out of the business now.
That design has to have some sort of condensate pump which is going to be the weak link. It'll probably last a year or two before the pump dies and replacing it requires total disassembly of the entire unit and/or the part costs as much as just buying a new unit. Been down that road many times with dehumidifiers. The pumps always fail before anything else.
I saw this type awhile back and kept going back and forth on the idea of getting one. I have a small window a/c that cools the entire 800 sq ft house I live in. I don't like that it takes up half the lower window, and I don't like putting it in and taking it out. But I decided to keep using it because of the reviews I read about these new ones not having good (or any) customer service.
30 shouldn't matter much to a modern inverter heat pump. Power consumption will be higher (vs. 40 or 50 ambient), but it should still be able to put out 10K BTUs if that is what's called for.
Thanks for that demonstration. I like the new saddle style window air units. But I'm curious about what the current draw difference might be with that power cord uncoiled. A coiled power cord can create an AC choke which can create a problem with current flow in the cord. I don't think your current on that unit is high enough or coiled portion of the cord is long enough to be a problem but I would be curious to see what your current draw would be with the power cord uncoiled and then the power cord coiled as you have it in this video.
@@tjam4229it’s not a saddle, it u shape which blocks the view out of the window. I ended up buy in the ge profile, no heat pump but I only needed ac. 😊
Just to be clear, does this unit actually include a heat pump, or is it a simple resistive electric heating coil packaged with an inverter/compressor A/C unit? You mention a reversing valve, which says it's a heat pump, but there is no mention of the HSPF or COP, so I'm confused.
I've tested a few portable "4-in-1" portable heat pumps, and as far as I can tell, none of them have a dedicated defrost cycle of any kind. When the temperature gets much below 55F, the outdoor evaporator coil freezes solid, and the unit makes no attempt to defrost it so it stops heating. It's extremely unfortunate, because even a simple non inverter heat pump would be awesome and highly usable if it had a defrost function.
Outside unit shouldn't be frosting until temps get below freezing. If it happens above that, there. are other problems.. (blockage, lack of gas, ???) or it wasn't ever designed to be used in such temps.
@@spazzman90 they start frosting at 40°F in my entire life's experiences with heat pumps in NC. That's why most of them work down to exactly 41°F...the unit featured on the video operates down to 30°F
I have a Whynter portable dual hose ac/heat pump. It works to about 40 outside and will heat below 40 if it has another heat source to draw from but that defeats the purpose... Nice in the fall though but i remove it to keep heat in by December.
@@spazzman90 Frosting will happen when the outdoor ambient is 20F above freezing because the evaporator has to be colder than the ambient air in order to cause heat transfer. Just like how the indoor coil temperature will be hotter than the indoor air temperature.
Gradient is the other product I know of that has this type of design. Its a premium product with a nice design so I'm guessing more expensive than this, but might work well for some.
If you can save considerable cost with having the unit stick out, I'd be fine with it. The underside still makes a great nesting area for wasps, and that would be a problem. The major drawback with these saddle units that I've been hearing is that the pump gets clogged with mold and junk. I use condensate pan tablets to keep my normal air conditioners running smoothly, but I don''t know anything about they units that require a condensate pump.
Is it four or two filter design? Couldn’t tell by video. Looked like four plex which could make some sense as they are cheap filters from the start anyways
from the top of the window sill to the bottom of the ac how many inches is it? I have a 10" powered sub below my window and I was wondering if it would hit it. Thanks.
I wish they would invent a window AC that was flush with the window so we could have one in our window... we live in an HOA that doesn't allow window AC's... so during emergencies we have to use those portable ones.
craiglist or facebook might have some but they have short lifespans to begin with around 15 years tops anymore most people replace them because the heat exchanger has rusted or cracked so they are not safe.
@@ranger178 My current furnace is a 1980's model, with a pilot light. It still works but isn't nearly as efficient as the newer ones. I can't afford a brand new one, but would like to get something more efficient. I was wondering if there were places where you could purchase one that's been refurbished or re-certified.
Important Question --- If the power goes out will this unit resume operation using the settings it was running with before the power failure? Sorry, never mind. The condensate drain issue is a deal breaker for me. The one you demonstrated that goes up from the sill is the better design if you don't want to babysit a drain.
This unit has a rating of 3.6 stars out of 5 stars on Amazon with 20% of reviewers giving it one star. Only 30 ratings so far, and perhaps the ratings will improve.
My Midea broke after 1 season of use. I switched to Windmill. No U-shape unfortunately so it's much louder but it's been going strong for 3 seasons and counting...
It’s cool, but the front looks so dated with the badge, 90’s led display and controls. I like the GE, Midea or Windmill design better. Thanks for the video!
I live in the salt lake area and I used your videos to install a new Goodman furnace and air conditioner. Very good videos by the way! I started the cool in July and has been working great. Just tried to start up the heat but doesn’t work. It faults out on high blower amps but the same blower works fine with the cool. Goodman won’t talk to me because I installed it myself. Contractors don’t want to look at it for warranty reasons they say. Is there any way you can assist me with my problem. Thanks
LG sells a combination washer/dryer. Soleus sells a combination air conditioner/heater. What we need now is a combination washer/dryer/air conditioner/heater. Hey I'm only kidding. This seems to be a great product.
Soleus is such an elusive company. I've heard good things, but when I tried to order parts for a broken saddle I picked up they abruptly said there are zero user replacement parts on the 6000 BTU unit. Are they Midea? I assume they are Chinese? What is the difference between Soleus Air vs Soleus Air West? Also, any numbers like HSPF or SEER/CEER? Is this r410a or R32? The sell air purifiets and USB gadgets too. I can't figure out what this company wants to be.
Gree may be the parent company of Soleus. I have Soleus dehumidifier that had a US Govt. recall and Gree was the parent company that contacted me through my registration. I didn't follow through and the unit still works great 9 years later. Gree is huge in Asia. Their other two ac units I have work fine after eight years. Inverter is the way to go now though.
It's not a heat pump. Heat pumps are ACs that can run in reverse, using half the energy (half the money) of a normal space heater. Don't get these units without heat pump heat. Unfortunately there aren't a lot of window heatpumps out yet and they are $2k to $3k. There are inexpensive mini split heatpumps, but they take a lot of installation.
That unit is 750 USD with a 100 off coupon on Amzn right now. Bear in mind Amzn warns that the product is frequently returned, and the rating is kinda bad (not super bad, but bad enough to be concerned)
I bought the GE profile AC. It's garbage. It may have been quiet at the beginning, but honestly now it is as loud as any window unit I've ever heard. I bought the Midea U-shaped, and it is much quieter. seems like a better design overall. It is not a reversible cycle heat pump, just an AC.
@@nikij.6058 hmm. Mine rattles so much during certain parts of the cycle that it wakes my wife up. Even the plastic cover rattles against the frame. It’s just very cheaply made. Ironically, the Midea unit feels much more solidly built and the fans are significantly quieter.
I believe Midea might be an even better unit. They are high-end, and were the first to come out with this style of inverter window “C” unit. Nice review! Thanks for spending YOUR money and time for the benefit of other people 😊
I have the Midea unit. Like him, I am quite impressed by the performance, ease of installation, and noise. I imagine the two units are similar, although I give the Soleus Air unit the edge because it's a saddle design whereas my Midea unit is a U design. Also the Midea unit looks like it's more compact, but that's not really a consideration for me.
Is it not possible to buy a smaller screen and caulk the bottom of it to the top of the unit? This is a heating and cooling unit, so it stands to reason you might leave it installed year round
This thing takes up a lot of space and it does not fit in all windows correctly and if you use it air conditioning mode you have to drain it constantly so it doesn't grow mildew in it or blow extra moisture into your home as the pump does not pump all the water out of it.
Oh sure, at $700 per unit in my house, which has 7 bedrooms, a kitchen, living room, and dining room. I'd need 10 units. That's $7000 plus shipping and tax. Everybody just has that lying around to waste on these when having central air & heat would be not much more expensive, and far more efficient.
Why did you actually have better measure of usage rather than amps. If we were to use the analogy of money wattage is how much you spend amps is the type of currency and buying power you have.
That is NOT a heat pump. Just Heat strips in an A/ -Old-school motel -style. NO WHERE does it suggest it's a heat pump, and people are taking your word for it. -Not good.
Does it matter as long as you're getting value for your money? Many home appliances including components in phones and computers are Made in China! Let the politicians do politics and you do you!
They are already developing a unit similar to this one that is far superior given their design will heat well below this units limit of 30 to 40 degrees F
Not sure why some say it won't heat when it's below 30 degrees. I'm only guessing as I don't really care, but I have 2 110v split systems and also a 220v system. All function in 0 degree weather just fine. Maybe be the window unit being 110v isn't the same as a split 110v system for some reason. It makes sense that it would be without the line set and install aggravation. Maybe I'll look further into it. I would be convenient if these worked as well as the 110's I got without going through the installs and the lesser chance of loosing a charge later as time goes on.
I found this interesting. This is a Brave AI explanation on window mini-spit system terminology. "Meaning of Mini-Split Window ACs Based on the provided search results, window air conditioners are not actually called “Mini-Split”. The term “Mini-Split” specifically refers to a type of ductless air conditioning system, also known as a ductless mini-split system. These systems consist of an outdoor compressor unit and one or more indoor air-handling units, connected by a conduit. They are designed to cool individual rooms or zones without the need for ductwork. Window air conditioners, on the other hand, are self-contained units that are installed in a window to cool a single room or area. They do not have the same design or functionality as Mini-Split systems. The term “Mini-Split” likely originated from the fact that these ductless systems are smaller and more compact than traditional central air conditioning systems, and they split the cooling system into two components (outdoor and indoor) rather than having a single, larger unit. It’s worth noting that some manufacturers or marketers may use the term “Mini-Split” to describe window air conditioners, but this is not an accurate or industry-standard term. Window air conditioners are distinct from Mini-Split systems, and the two should not be confused."
LoL! window mounted heat-pumps are not a new thing they existed over 40 years ago, yes actual reverse-cycle heating units the and most had backup resistance heat strips for when it was too cold for the heat pump only mode. They were also made way better back than with real refrigerants and overall better build quality as well. Modern HVAC is all overly computerized garbage the same goes for basically all appliances made these days it is getting harder and harder to find any type of appliance with mechanical controls. With the exception of some of the 5K BTU window rattlers and the cheaper fan heaters.
About the additional 200 clams for an AC that has heating, are you fricken kidding me!!! Not happening and will NOT pay for that type of setup when you can utilize a low wattage oil filled space heater that is setup for 400 watts lower setting that has virtually the same effect if not better so forget about it ! I already have some 4 said oil filled radiator type of heaters that are efficient and affordable to take off chill or supplement my electric furnace type heat that can run if needed at anytime that i purchased back 2016-2017 at a most favorable pricetag. These oil filled radiators are used at night to be used for over a 7-8 hour period that also has a variable thermostat that you can dial in at about a third to half range on the dial for your overall desired temperature range dependent on the room size. And to be quite clear, when employed as needed; since the are power misers and they sip energy as intended!
@@nyquil762 they're only as efficient as any other straight resistance heat. Which is to say, they are not efficient. The oil filled electric radiators do retain their heat between the thermostat's cycles much better than any other type of electric resistance space heater, however. But 400 watts of electric resistance heat is never actually efficient.
@@nyquil762 Not easy to do their Pal! Especially now a days! mine were purchased back in 2016- 2017. My go to in the brands that I had purchased these are: Duraflame, Patton and Optimus Heaters, 2- Duraflame's oil filled 2- Patton's oil filled and 1- Optimus Quartz type heater. at least two of said such manufacturer's they no longer make! Optimus I have seen still lurking around since they are most likely "New Old Stock" that can be had for around 50 clams on a good day but could also be priced at for much higher! The same could be said for these oil filled radiators which could be typically priced at around 70 clams if NOT higher!!! These stroke of pure madness chinesium models, you just don't know what in the hell that you are getting, while some if not most are hunks of junk and most of them too are over priced. If I do a extended search that produces good results, I shall keep you in mind but don't hold me to this!!
(Continuation) Listen Up! 1.) I have an electric furnace that is used inside of a 51 year old mobile home! It uses a ton of electricity and yes it does have resistive elements that are driven in stages of heat over the course of said duty cycles and all four electric burners do not come on all at once! They are staged to perform in what they are called as duty cycles and depending just how just cold outside, while the inside ambient temp indoors will dictate just how long these stagged burners while remain on while given a pre- programmed duty cycles or periods of time that they will remain on to satisfy the rise of temp inside for no more than what is actually required! Typically this electric furnace will turn on for about 8 minutes and once all four stages have gone into shut down, a cool down cycle of the internal heat cavity will commence and by the time the entire duty cycles are complete; just about 3 minutes later (to include cool down phase) shall encompass a snapshot in time for 11 minutes for fulfilling such demand for heat that is governed by your wall thermostat as a whole typically. Now I have actually thought about replacing the electric furnace with a propane fired unit but here's the catch: It will actually cost me more to heat my home as opposed to sticking with my electric furnace because of the outrageous cost of propane! Since that I am on a year around monthly Equal Payment Plan with my supplier, though it is not cheap, at least I don't get surprised OR attacked by a huge burgeoning bill for the coldest of months in the winter season that could either wipe me out OR cause a crisis of my not being able to pay my bill and cause me credits issues as well! 2.) SO, since I already pretty much know what the budget forecast for the year, thus i am set for being able to make monthly equal payments here now of just just shy of 300 clams per month or a total of just less of 3600 clams for the year which includes all forms of electric needs that i personally consume. 3.) So what have I done to keep my consumption below a certain threshold?? 3.) Well, I set my wall thermostat for 67 degrees without touching it thereafter and so I employ the use of these mineral oil filled radiator portable freestanding heaters while switched to the (400 Watt setting) and in addition to that, I use the rotary dial thermostatic control such as to "dial in" the desired "room ambient" temp to around 68 degrees for sleeping comfort, just only about 1-2 degrees above the already 67 degrees that my furnace provides for the heat throughout my mobile home. 4.) this temperature compensation takes the chill off in only designated rooms such as for bedrooms or bathrooms ( more confined spaces that are actually occupied) and does the job well over the course of 7-8 hours, with the doors to the rooms are cracked open 2- 2.5 inches just shy of being closed. This will allow heat such as in a colder room that doesn't get a lot of heat to a nice balmy 68 degrees. For the bathroom, I turn on the same type of heater and it too is set for the 400 watt setting while also setting the thermostatically control switch at mid way on the dial such as to preheat my bathroom one half hour to around 74 degrees before i jump into the shower to get scrubbed up! Once I've showered and gotten all finished, I shut it down. 4.) In essence, I do these sort of things and to get the thermostatic prime setting down pat, it just might take you up to 3 days to get that prime setting of that thermostatic switch near perfect for a desired 68 degrees in a bedroom by starting out with a low setting and gradually start dialing it up until you reach the desired prime setting as needed. If I should overshoot the threshold I would only have to back the dial setting off a bit to hit the room ambient desired temp, but then transfer an ink marking from the dial pointer onto the stationary housing for the controls. This transfer of ink will indicatively tell you how to set it back if your control gets moved or messed with but ordinarily, you just set it and forget it, but to then use the main on/off main switch to turn off the heater, such as in the morning as you rise up from bed! Since you will not be using that heater at a 400 watt constant over said period of time that of inside say one hour, but since the thermostatic switch and the room ambient temp both shall dictate just how much WATTAGE is actually used over the course of one hour's use case (again yet another snapshot in time) it will NOT equal 400 watts total consumption at all my friends but more like around perhaps 2/3rds if not really less than that OR maybe even so much as oh I don't know maybe 275 watts total for said duty cycle average based on that snapshot of one hour's time and NOT for that first snapshot of taking an otherwise cold heater up to that prime heating target or second cycle. Once the heater is stabilized overall, it will just sip on oh about some said 275-300 watts used and remain in that state until you so decide to shut it down. Project that over a 7-8 hours average, your consumption just might turn out just might be as little as none other than 300 watts overall times 7-8 hr. average, 7.5 AVG translates 2.250 KW of electric energy x .11 cents per kilowatt equals around $2.475 per day of use typically for my main bedroom to help offset the chill in my main bedroom size of that is not more than 120 sq. feet interior with any true comparison of my jacking my electric furnace to 68 instead....One HUGE MASSIVE difference in energy consumption to an acceptable level of comfort overnight. With everything said here, while back in the 1990's: I absolutely feel in love with these quartz type resistive upright heaters because of their absolutely great radiant heat but that would have come at a big cost to operate! Well now these mineral oil filled radiators do a much better job overall and strictly based for a more confined living area, are just the cat's meow, bar non and the radiant heat is ever so smooth and polished for the most point and I swear by them and so the one's that I purchased are durable and I can see them lasting a possible 10-15 years worth. If I am truly smart about it, I would find and purchase these replacement rotary main switches and thermostats in the here and now just to have them on hand to be able to replace them in the event one or both of them gives out! These are the only true of said 3 main components that in time will eventually give out! The third item is a protective thermostatic limit fuse that could conceivably blow out because of an internal thermal limit protective shutdown which is also relatively cheap as well! You must however need to have a series of explicit manufacturer's part numbers to be able to source and purchase based on the make and model! You must also be able to inspect for defects, burn marks or discoloration of said wiring inside and out that could have a potential of being a fire safety concern; troubleshoot to a fair degree and make said repairs in a professional manner and be able to properly test out your finished repair work. So, to sum things up, these reliable manufacturer's that have provided you with just simple heat methods are a dandy despite what some people tell you and typically have a very good if not great track record overall, provided that you are NOT trying to heat a something like a total open space but instead a confined space such as a bedroom or bathroom that has furnishings that help shrink that space that you are trying to heat, as in a 8'x8' Or !0'x12' ! I still have a horizontal 400 watt quartz heater while set in the low setting or 1 of 2 quartz heating rods turned on that not only makes for a wildly toasty bathroom in nearly no time alone, that is not only toasty with the door closed but if you are not careful about your safe setup, you could quite possibly set the room ablaze! So yah, this has been my experience and I thusly stand by my methods of pure madness OR I would just stop what I'm a doing altogether!! This is me and not just any other flesh and blood saying this! My go to in the brands that I had purchased, these are: Duraflame, Patton and Optimus Heaters, 2- Duraflame's oil filled, 2- Patton's oil filled and 1- Optimus Quartz type heater. Two of said such manufacturer's they no longer make! Optimus I have seen still lurking around since they are most likely "New Old Stock" that can be had for around 50 clams on a good day but could also be priced at for much higher! The same could be said for these oil filled radiators which could be typically priced at around 70 clams if NOT higher!!! These stroke of pure madness chinesium models, you just don't know what in the hell that you are getting, while some if not most are hunks of junk and most of them too are over priced. So beware, if not be highly aware of said type of products that are typically sold at Walmart and other box stores by looking up: "Oil Filled Portable Space Heaters" and chances are that you will be directed to the appropriate web pages OR just do a look-up on StartPage Web Search Engine, FORGET Google!!! with the description given!!
to be 100% honest, NO, you do NOT have 100% use of your window with one of these units. in 99.9% of the cases, you lose the ability to lock your window.
It's about time! This should revolutionize all the millions of folks living in condos where they are not allowed to put in a Split heat pump, or it is prohibitively expensive to do so. In vancouver a couple was quoted $25,000 to put in a heat pump for the 600 square foot condo! nuts.
Put a PTAC through the wall. Would save $$$$$$$$$$C.
By an Italian company whose name begins with 'M' I wonder....?
This is going to be super
@@planesandbikes7353 it doesn't work below 30°F
@@davidcameron2366 Vancouver (assuming they're referring to the city) probably drops under 30F less than 20 nights a year most years.
Can't depend on it as exclusive heat source, but it is an efficient way to keep the cold at bay most of the year.
$800 w/tax and 28% negative reviews. Several complain of the vibration, noise, errors and premature failure.
And the other 72%?
@@eatduncanjewett 41% 5 star. Very poor rating.
We have two of these and can confirm the vibration and noise. The noise can be reduced a bit with some insulating foam around the unit and a good whack if the fan is making a noise (some kind of misalignment?), but the vibration is still a major concern.
These things just get better and better.
Gradient and Medea also have inverter-driven saddle-design units.
With A/C and a heat pump?
I thought Medea only had the u-shaped that comes up around the window, not downward. Please share model numbers if you have for their saddle. Thank you.
@@dplj4428 Search youtube for this "Why This Window Heat Pump Is Genius"
Midea has a U shaped window ac but it does not offer heat yet. Now we have a U shaped window ac with heat, next we need both Midea and Soleus to offer U shaped Window ac with heat as a heat pump so they can get that SEER up to about 20
Our family wants to thank you for making a video about Daikin air purifiers. A product that works!Also, we've been updating our new hvac system. We really do appreciate your input! God bless.
I need to put this in my garage.
I am waiting on Midea’s version. I have the AC only from them and it works so well
Same! Me too.
They already have a Midea Saddle Unit like this.
I believe they were the first to come up with this design!!
@@tjam4229 Oh I thought the heat-pump version wasn't going to be released until 2025. Will have to look into it.
@@tjam4229 - There is a Midea version of this micro-split (A/C and heating)? That's news to me.
GE sucks.
Not a word about drainage? The drawback to the saddle design -- as compared to the U shaped -- is that water from the coils can't flow out. So it is bound to have some kind of collector.
The reviews of this are gnarly.....
At low current draw like this, there is no provision for auxiliary (resistive electric) heat.
The heat pump will only function well down to about 40 degrees F. Outside Air Temperature.
Then it starts 'making ice cubes' below that ambient temp., and gets stuck in the defrost cycle.
Thanks for the review
Anyone that has owned any window unit knows the one thing you fail to talk about, which is ease of cleaning in place... So many of these units are designed to fail the moment the fins get dirty but no one makes these things to be cleaned without full window removal, and it's a major PITA. It makes you wonder why they don't design a commercial unit to be cleaned regularly with out removing the entire unit and disassembled...
Per Amazon: Frequently returned item
Check the product details and customer reviews to learn more about this item.
I noticed that also 😬
It's all the unsponsored youtubers.
Yeah, would have been nice if he had addressed that.
Maybe did a little investigation before hand, trying to find a few unhappy customers to ask them why they returned it.
Eh, maybe he'll do a proper review in a few months when it doesn't heat well enough in the winter or breaks down prematurely 🤷♀️
I saw that the SEER was 13 and didn’t see an HSPF. In comparison I installed a mini split with a SEER of 30, but even cheap ones are 22.
It’s a window unit….. they’re not supposed to be efficient….
@@georgewelker2846 It’s an inverter ac. They are supposed to be more efficient.
Great review! Like you said, I wonder if the vibration is a problem
4:31 does it drip water on the outside?
Looks like the interior unit needs to be manually drained by removing a plug. Unit shuts off when this becomes necessary. AC mode only.
I saw alot of these in the return section of my big box store earlier this year which is never a good sign
This unit just hit the market...how could you have seen "alot" of them being returned early this year?
They need to make some units for vertical windows.
I noticed a flaw in the filter design, there is a wide gap between the two filters. Dust gonna go there.
I too am waiting on the Midea version as I can't use a "hang below" type of unit.
That's pretty nice, and the amperage that it pulls for both AC/Heating is extremely low compared to others. Thanks.
Yes to educational diy lessons. While this is an easy option, I noticed reviewers on Amazon notice the noise.
AWESOME will be adding to my shop been waiting for this, thanks for reviewing.
What happens to the evaporator condensation?
Looks like the interior unit needs to be manually drained by removing a plug. Unit shuts off when this becomes necessary. AC mode only.
Well, when I was in the Navy in the late 70's, the ship I was on, USS Durham LKA 114, , I was in engineering and our living space was 1 deck below the main deck separated from the engine room by a steel plate floor. Needless to say, it was still loud and the vibrations, Then when I was with forestry for my career, I went out in a strike team to Angeles National forest 1996, They gave us a nice 1 acre or so mowed area with a nice big huge portable generator. 🙂 that was only 50 ft or so from our group pitched in tents and sleeping bags. You would be amazed how easily you fall asleep when you are exhausted and how quickly your body adapts to the noise that you don't even realize that it's on. I would not have told this with my real name. I never boast of anything. So this makes no difference. MY Point, you can adapt to most constant noises quickly. CONSTANT steady. NOT a dog barking or cat's fightings. that is not a constant sound like a humming sound or air conditioner. sorry for the story. steady noise is easy. 🙂thanks.
Thanks for presenting this new product and explaining what makes it significantly different than other products.
This is npt a new product. In real worlds this are still not how they male them seem. My 2 year old unit same this guy is reviewing is not working near as good as when I bought it. 1 day review of course is going to sound great but give it some time my friend. It Wont cool or heat properly and yes filters have been cleaned. constanlty.
Would be nice to know the exterior ambient temps while you were testing heat and cold functions.
How long/good is the warranty?
There were window units that heated 30 years ago. I worked on some Friedrich units for an electric utility switchgear buildings.
Did they have defrost functions? I am very concerned, because I have tested a few portable air conditioners with heat pump functionality, but none of them seem to even attempt a defrost, so they freeze solid and are useless in temperatures below about 55F.
@@gregorymalchuk272 Motels have used them for many, many years and still do.
They included inefficient radiant heating coils inside, and they still make them today.
@@spazzman90 Yep. Quality Inn just down the street getting remodeled and brand new ones at this very moment
In my younger days I worked part-time for an HVAC/Building Maintenance company. The formen conducted the task of providing estimates to residential customers. They told me that management prohibited the use of ANY
Friedrich equipment. The reason I was told was too many, and various, customer complaints, too many repeated service return calls and warranty problems. I did meet several people who were very satisfied with their existing Friedrich systems so who knows. I'm out of the business now.
That design has to have some sort of condensate pump which is going to be the weak link. It'll probably last a year or two before the pump dies and replacing it requires total disassembly of the entire unit and/or the part costs as much as just buying a new unit. Been down that road many times with dehumidifiers. The pumps always fail before anything else.
I saw this type awhile back and kept going back and forth on the idea of getting one. I have a small window a/c that cools the entire 800 sq ft house I live in. I don't like that it takes up half the lower window, and I don't like putting it in and taking it out. But I decided to keep using it because of the reviews I read about these new ones not having good (or any) customer service.
Do you have any idea what the heating inside temperature be if the outside temperature was 30° with high winds?
30 shouldn't matter much to a modern inverter heat pump. Power consumption will be higher (vs. 40 or 50 ambient), but it should still be able to put out 10K BTUs if that is what's called for.
It only heats in temperatures down to 30°F. It's pretty worthless when it really needs to work.
I can't find the GE version that will also heat anywhere online.
Thanks for that demonstration. I like the new saddle style window air units. But I'm curious about what the current draw difference might be with that power cord uncoiled. A coiled power cord can create an AC choke which can create a problem with current flow in the cord. I don't think your current on that unit is high enough or coiled portion of the cord is long enough to be a problem but I would be curious to see what your current draw would be with the power cord uncoiled and then the power cord coiled as you have it in this video.
I will wait midea version of the heat pump unit
Good thinking.
Yep, since he said nothing about cold temperature this junk is good only for Florida and Texas
They already have a Midea window saddle unit.
I think they were the first to develop this design!!
@@tjam4229 not available for sell yet with the heat pump bro
@@tjam4229it’s not a saddle, it u shape which blocks the view out of the window. I ended up buy in the ge profile, no heat pump but I only needed ac. 😊
Just to be clear, does this unit actually include a heat pump, or is it a simple resistive electric heating coil packaged with an inverter/compressor A/C unit? You mention a reversing valve, which says it's a heat pump, but there is no mention of the HSPF or COP, so I'm confused.
New article in the WSJ: America’s New Millionaire Class: Plumbers and HVAC Entrepreneurs
I've tested a few portable "4-in-1" portable heat pumps, and as far as I can tell, none of them have a dedicated defrost cycle of any kind. When the temperature gets much below 55F, the outdoor evaporator coil freezes solid, and the unit makes no attempt to defrost it so it stops heating. It's extremely unfortunate, because even a simple non inverter heat pump would be awesome and highly usable if it had a defrost function.
Outside unit shouldn't be frosting until temps get below freezing. If it happens above that, there. are other problems.. (blockage, lack of gas, ???) or it wasn't ever designed to be used in such temps.
@@spazzman90 they start frosting at 40°F in my entire life's experiences with heat pumps in NC. That's why most of them work down to exactly 41°F...the unit featured on the video operates down to 30°F
I have a Whynter portable dual hose ac/heat pump. It works to about 40 outside and will heat below 40 if it has another heat source to draw from but that defeats the purpose... Nice in the fall though but i remove it to keep heat in by December.
@@spazzman90 Frosting will happen when the outdoor ambient is 20F above freezing because the evaporator has to be colder than the ambient air in order to cause heat transfer. Just like how the indoor coil temperature will be hotter than the indoor air temperature.
So are we stuck having to buy a 1300 buck Mr cool mini split?
So will you need a whole home surge protector.
.
Gradient is the other product I know of that has this type of design. Its a premium product with a nice design so I'm guessing more expensive than this, but might work well for some.
If you can save considerable cost with having the unit stick out, I'd be fine with it. The underside still makes a great nesting area for wasps, and that would be a problem. The major drawback with these saddle units that I've been hearing is that the pump gets clogged with mold and junk. I use condensate pan tablets to keep my normal air conditioners running smoothly, but I don''t know anything about they units that require a condensate pump.
Is it four or two filter design? Couldn’t tell by video. Looked like four plex which could make some sense as they are cheap filters from the start anyways
from the top of the window sill to the bottom of the ac how many inches is it? I have a 10" powered sub below my window and I was wondering if it would hit it. Thanks.
I wish they would invent a window AC that was flush with the window so we could have one in our window... we live in an HOA that doesn't allow window AC's... so during emergencies we have to use those portable ones.
Really good info and review. Very good value for money this unit too.
Is there any place where you can buy a used furnace that isn't very old?
craiglist or facebook might have some but they have short lifespans to begin with around 15 years tops anymore most people replace them because the heat exchanger has rusted or cracked so they are not safe.
@@ranger178 My current furnace is a 1980's model, with a pilot light. It still works but isn't nearly as efficient as the newer ones. I can't afford a brand new one, but would like to get something more efficient. I was wondering if there were places where you could purchase one that's been refurbished or re-certified.
Important Question --- If the power goes out will this unit resume operation using the settings it was running with before the power failure? Sorry, never mind. The condensate drain issue is a deal breaker for me. The one you demonstrated that goes up from the sill is the better design if you don't want to babysit a drain.
How do you secure the window in that configuation and have the ability to readily open it when needed?
Thoughts on the bad Amazon reviews and how Amazon warns it's frequently returned?
ikr - 28% neg reviews! I won't buy anything with over 5% neg review. This is 28%!
Does the wattage on the heat change as things heat up?
I wonder how this compares to the Midea
page 20, it says, "This air conditioner is not designed for freezing outdoor conditions. It must not be used in freezing outdoor conditions."
Regarding the vibration did you level the outside unit with a bubble level
check reviews on amazon
What's the height of of it? You only measured two dimensions.
Nice, although this a more updated design, these "low-profile" units have been around for years.
This unit has a rating of 3.6 stars out of 5 stars on Amazon with 20% of reviewers giving it one star. Only 30 ratings so far, and perhaps the ratings will improve.
Seems to be a lot of negative on Amazon too. Great idea but would love to see midea kick out an option.
AND has a note that the product is frequently returned 😢
the reviews will improve once they delete some bad ones and put in some fake good reviews
@@mr.c6674 Just like this one!
My Midea broke after 1 season of use. I switched to Windmill. No U-shape unfortunately so it's much louder but it's been going strong for 3 seasons and counting...
66 degrees I'd need a jacket. (Texas acclimated)
Great product review 👍👍👍👍🏠
After installing such a unit, what about security? The window cannot be locked normally.
small length of 2" x 3" placed between the top horizontal of the bottom sash,,, and the underside, of the top horizontal,
of the window frame
It’s cool, but the front looks so dated with the badge, 90’s led display and controls. I like the GE, Midea or Windmill design better. Thanks for the video!
I live in the salt lake area and I used your videos to install a new Goodman furnace and air conditioner. Very good videos by the way! I started the cool in July and has been working great. Just tried to start up the heat but doesn’t work. It faults out on high blower amps but the same blower works fine with the cool. Goodman won’t talk to me because I installed it myself. Contractors don’t want to look at it for warranty reasons they say. Is there any way you can assist me with my problem. Thanks
Hello there. You can get remote support for all troubleshooting problems at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy
Hope we can help.
Best
Thanks for the review
LG sells a combination washer/dryer. Soleus sells a combination air conditioner/heater. What we need now is a combination washer/dryer/air conditioner/heater.
Hey I'm only kidding. This seems to be a great product.
What about condensation? Some of us live in a swamp LOL
Looks like the interior unit needs to be manually drained by removing a plug. Unit shuts off when this becomes necessary. AC mode only.
@@spazzman90 You mean it does drain to the outside, out the window? Crazy.
@@spazzman90 Well that sucks.
That's really cool!
Do you know if Blueridge from Alpine...Do they have Copeland scroll compressors...and are they as good as Goodman?
Soleus is such an elusive company. I've heard good things, but when I tried to order parts for a broken saddle I picked up they abruptly said there are zero user replacement parts on the 6000 BTU unit. Are they Midea? I assume they are Chinese? What is the difference between Soleus Air vs Soleus Air West? Also, any numbers like HSPF or SEER/CEER? Is this r410a or R32? The sell air purifiets and USB gadgets too. I can't figure out what this company wants to be.
Gree may be the parent company of Soleus. I have Soleus dehumidifier that had a US Govt. recall and Gree was the parent company that contacted me through my registration. I didn't follow through and the unit still works great 9 years later. Gree is huge in Asia. Their other two ac units I have work fine after eight years. Inverter is the way to go now though.
It's not a heat pump. Heat pumps are ACs that can run in reverse, using half the energy (half the money) of a normal space heater. Don't get these units without heat pump heat. Unfortunately there aren't a lot of window heatpumps out yet and they are $2k to $3k. There are inexpensive mini split heatpumps, but they take a lot of installation.
Price?
That unit is 750 USD with a 100 off coupon on Amzn right now.
Bear in mind Amzn warns that the product is frequently returned, and the rating is kinda bad (not super bad, but bad enough to be concerned)
Awesome !
Maybe I missed it but what was the average cost of this unit?
$800 w/tax.
frequently returned unit Amazon 30% 1 star rating
some inverter heaters only work down to 40 degrees & up outside. Does anyone know what this is ? Will the inverter work when its 20 degrees outside ?
It only works down to 30°F
I bought the GE profile AC. It's garbage. It may have been quiet at the beginning, but honestly now it is as loud as any window unit I've ever heard.
I bought the Midea U-shaped, and it is much quieter. seems like a better design overall. It is not a reversible cycle heat pump, just an AC.
No problem with mine…
@@nikij.6058 hmm. Mine rattles so much during certain parts of the cycle that it wakes my wife up. Even the plastic cover rattles against the frame. It’s just very cheaply made. Ironically, the Midea unit feels much more solidly built and the fans are significantly quieter.
I believe Midea might be an even better unit. They are high-end, and were the first to come out with this style of inverter window “C” unit.
Nice review! Thanks for spending YOUR money and time for the benefit of other people 😊
I have the Midea unit. Like him, I am quite impressed by the performance, ease of installation, and noise. I imagine the two units are similar, although I give the Soleus Air unit the edge because it's a saddle design whereas my Midea unit is a U design. Also the Midea unit looks like it's more compact, but that's not really a consideration for me.
i have a few midea units but i can't find any with heat at all for sale, does your midea have heat? If so, what model is it?
I don't know where you live or the designers of that unit live but in MI, you can't use a window that doesn't have a screen.
Is it not possible to buy a smaller screen and caulk the bottom of it to the top of the unit?
This is a heating and cooling unit, so it stands to reason you might leave it installed year round
Do you know where MI is?
This thing takes up a lot of space and it does not fit in all windows correctly and if you use it air conditioning mode you have to drain it constantly so it doesn't grow mildew in it or blow extra moisture into your home as the pump does not pump all the water out of it.
Until you find a puddle of water on your floor. How does it drain.
Pricey at $700.
Can this be used on an XO window?
Oh sure, at $700 per unit in my house, which has 7 bedrooms, a kitchen, living room, and dining room. I'd need 10 units. That's $7000 plus shipping and tax. Everybody just has that lying around to waste on these when having central air & heat would be not much more expensive, and far more efficient.
Why did you actually have better measure of usage rather than amps. If we were to use the analogy of money wattage is how much you spend amps is the type of currency and buying power you have.
my main criteria is it Chinese crap that will fall apart in a few years I would actually like something that lasts longer than a loaf of bread.
China just built it , it Americans corporate that own it
Wonderful idea, BUT most older houses have radiators under the windows . If you have anything under the windows you can't use this.
That is NOT a heat pump. Just Heat strips in an A/ -Old-school motel -style. NO WHERE does it suggest it's a heat pump, and people are taking your word for it. -Not good.
Is it on sale at Walmart?
You are a man of good character. 🙂
I'm in TX. Some of your videos do not apply to me but I watch / enjoy them anyway. thank you
My ledge outside i thought is too far away for this saddle, air or heat. Just noticed that adjusting rod. What measure the unit's gap distance?
Well, It costs a lot more than the GE for sure.
Is this made in China?
Does it matter as long as you're getting value for your money?
Many home appliances including components in phones and computers are Made in China!
Let the politicians do politics and you do you!
what isn't
I wonder how midea gonna answer to this
They are already developing a unit similar to this one that is far superior given their design will heat well below this units limit of 30 to 40 degrees F
Not sure why some say it won't heat when it's below 30 degrees. I'm only guessing as I don't really care, but I have 2 110v split systems and also a 220v system. All function in 0 degree weather just fine. Maybe be the window unit being 110v isn't the same as a split 110v system for some reason. It makes sense that it would be without the line set and install aggravation. Maybe I'll look further into it. I would be convenient if these worked as well as the 110's I got without going through the installs and the lesser chance of loosing a charge later as time goes on.
Can this be used on a 15 amp circut / outlet?
It has terrible reviews on Amazon.
I found this interesting. This is a Brave AI explanation on window mini-spit system terminology.
"Meaning of Mini-Split Window ACs
Based on the provided search results, window air conditioners are not actually called “Mini-Split”. The term “Mini-Split” specifically refers to a type of ductless air conditioning system, also known as a ductless mini-split system. These systems consist of an outdoor compressor unit and one or more indoor air-handling units, connected by a conduit. They are designed to cool individual rooms or zones without the need for ductwork.
Window air conditioners, on the other hand, are self-contained units that are installed in a window to cool a single room or area. They do not have the same design or functionality as Mini-Split systems.
The term “Mini-Split” likely originated from the fact that these ductless systems are smaller and more compact than traditional central air conditioning systems, and they split the cooling system into two components (outdoor and indoor) rather than having a single, larger unit.
It’s worth noting that some manufacturers or marketers may use the term “Mini-Split” to describe window air conditioners, but this is not an accurate or industry-standard term. Window air conditioners are distinct from Mini-Split systems, and the two should not be confused."
This unit got some bad reviews on Amazon.
It's junk! As soon as you need heat most it will stop! So what is the point?
LoL! window mounted heat-pumps are not a new thing they existed over 40 years ago, yes actual reverse-cycle heating units the and most had backup resistance heat strips for when it was too cold for the heat pump only mode.
They were also made way better back than with real refrigerants and overall better build quality as well.
Modern HVAC is all overly computerized garbage the same goes for basically all appliances made these days it is getting harder and harder to find any type of appliance with mechanical controls.
With the exception of some of the 5K BTU window rattlers and the cheaper fan heaters.
About the additional 200 clams for an AC that has heating, are you fricken kidding me!!! Not happening and will NOT
pay for that type of setup when you can utilize a low wattage oil filled space heater that is setup for 400 watts lower
setting that has virtually the same effect if not better so forget about it ! I already have some 4 said oil filled radiator
type of heaters that are efficient and affordable to take off chill or supplement my electric furnace type heat that can
run if needed at anytime that i purchased back 2016-2017 at a most favorable pricetag. These oil filled radiators are
used at night to be used for over a 7-8 hour period that also has a variable thermostat that you can dial in at about a
third to half range on the dial for your overall desired temperature range dependent on the room size. And to be quite
clear, when employed as needed; since the are power misers and they sip energy as intended!
Can you recommend an oil filled model for me? I've never heard of these types of heaters.
@@nyquil762 they're only as efficient as any other straight resistance heat. Which is to say, they are not efficient. The oil filled electric radiators do retain their heat between the thermostat's cycles much better than any other type of electric resistance space heater, however. But 400 watts of electric resistance heat is never actually efficient.
@@davidcameron2366 ok, thanks for the information
@@nyquil762 Not easy to do their Pal! Especially now a days! mine were purchased back in 2016-
2017. My go to in the brands that I had purchased these are: Duraflame, Patton and Optimus Heaters,
2- Duraflame's oil filled 2- Patton's oil filled and 1- Optimus Quartz type heater. at least two of said such manufacturer's they no longer make! Optimus I have seen still lurking around since they are most likely
"New Old Stock" that can be had for around 50 clams on a good day but could also be priced at for much higher! The same could be said for these oil filled radiators which could be typically priced at around 70 clams if NOT higher!!! These stroke of pure madness chinesium models, you just don't know what in the
hell that you are getting, while some if not most are hunks of junk and most of them too are over priced.
If I do a extended search that produces good results, I shall keep you in mind but don't hold me to this!!
(Continuation) Listen Up! 1.) I have an electric furnace that is used inside of a 51 year old mobile home! It
uses a ton of electricity and yes it does have resistive elements that are driven in stages of heat over the
course of said duty cycles and all four electric burners do not come on all at once! They are staged to
perform in what they are called as duty cycles and depending just how just cold outside, while the inside
ambient temp indoors will dictate just how long these stagged burners while remain on while given a pre-
programmed duty cycles or periods of time that they will remain on to satisfy the rise of temp inside for
no more than what is actually required! Typically this electric furnace will turn on for about 8 minutes and
once all four stages have gone into shut down, a cool down cycle of the internal heat cavity will commence
and by the time the entire duty cycles are complete; just about 3 minutes later (to include cool down phase)
shall encompass a snapshot in time for 11 minutes for fulfilling such demand for heat that is governed by
your wall thermostat as a whole typically. Now I have actually thought about replacing the electric furnace
with a propane fired unit but here's the catch: It will actually cost me more to heat my home as opposed to
sticking with my electric furnace because of the outrageous cost of propane! Since that I am on a year
around monthly Equal Payment Plan with my supplier, though it is not cheap, at least I don't get surprised
OR attacked by a huge burgeoning bill for the coldest of months in the winter season that could either wipe
me out OR cause a crisis of my not being able to pay my bill and cause me credits issues as well! 2.) SO,
since I already pretty much know what the budget forecast for the year, thus i am set for being able to make
monthly equal payments here now of just just shy of 300 clams per month or a total of just less of 3600
clams for the year which includes all forms of electric needs that i personally consume. 3.) So what have I
done to keep my consumption below a certain threshold?? 3.) Well, I set my wall thermostat for 67 degrees
without touching it thereafter and so I employ the use of these mineral oil filled radiator portable freestanding
heaters while switched to the (400 Watt setting) and in addition to that, I use the rotary dial thermostatic
control such as to "dial in" the desired "room ambient" temp to around 68 degrees for sleeping comfort, just
only about 1-2 degrees above the already 67 degrees that my furnace provides for the heat throughout my
mobile home. 4.) this temperature compensation takes the chill off in only designated rooms such as for
bedrooms or bathrooms ( more confined spaces that are actually occupied) and does the job well over the
course of 7-8 hours, with the doors to the rooms are cracked open 2- 2.5 inches just shy of being closed.
This will allow heat such as in a colder room that doesn't get a lot of heat to a nice balmy 68 degrees. For
the bathroom, I turn on the same type of heater and it too is set for the 400 watt setting while also setting
the thermostatically control switch at mid way on the dial such as to preheat my bathroom one half hour
to around 74 degrees before i jump into the shower to get scrubbed up! Once I've showered and gotten all
finished, I shut it down. 4.) In essence, I do these sort of things and to get the thermostatic prime setting
down pat, it just might take you up to 3 days to get that prime setting of that thermostatic switch near perfect
for a desired 68 degrees in a bedroom by starting out with a low setting and gradually start dialing it up
until you reach the desired prime setting as needed. If I should overshoot the threshold I would only have to
back the dial setting off a bit to hit the room ambient desired temp, but then transfer an ink marking from the
dial pointer onto the stationary housing for the controls. This transfer of ink will indicatively tell you how to
set it back if your control gets moved or messed with but ordinarily, you just set it and forget it, but to then
use the main on/off main switch to turn off the heater, such as in the morning as you rise up from bed! Since
you will not be using that heater at a 400 watt constant over said period of time that of inside say one hour,
but since the thermostatic switch and the room ambient temp both shall dictate just how much WATTAGE
is actually used over the course of one hour's use case (again yet another snapshot in time) it will NOT equal
400 watts total consumption at all my friends but more like around perhaps 2/3rds if not really less than that
OR maybe even so much as oh I don't know maybe 275 watts total for said duty cycle average based on that
snapshot of one hour's time and NOT for that first snapshot of taking an otherwise cold heater up to that
prime heating target or second cycle. Once the heater is stabilized overall, it will just sip on oh about some
said 275-300 watts used and remain in that state until you so decide to shut it down. Project that over a
7-8 hours average, your consumption just might turn out just might be as little as none other than 300 watts
overall times 7-8 hr. average, 7.5 AVG translates 2.250 KW of electric energy x .11 cents per kilowatt equals
around $2.475 per day of use typically for my main bedroom to help offset the chill in my main bedroom size
of that is not more than 120 sq. feet interior with any true comparison of my jacking my electric furnace to 68 instead....One HUGE MASSIVE difference in energy consumption to an acceptable level of comfort overnight.
With everything said here, while back in the 1990's:
I absolutely feel in love with these quartz type resistive upright heaters because of their absolutely great radiant
heat but that would have come at a big cost to operate! Well now these mineral oil filled radiators do a much
better job overall and strictly based for a more confined living area, are just the cat's meow, bar non and the
radiant heat is ever so smooth and polished for the most point and I swear by them and so the one's that I
purchased are durable and I can see them lasting a possible 10-15 years worth. If I am truly smart about it,
I would find and purchase these replacement rotary main switches and thermostats in the here and now just to
have them on hand to be able to replace them in the event one or both of them gives out! These are the only
true of said 3 main components that in time will eventually give out! The third item is a protective thermostatic
limit fuse that could conceivably blow out because of an internal thermal limit protective shutdown which is also
relatively cheap as well! You must however need to have a series of explicit manufacturer's part numbers to be
able to source and purchase based on the make and model! You must also be able to inspect for defects, burn
marks or discoloration of said wiring inside and out that could have a potential of being a fire safety concern;
troubleshoot to a fair degree and make said repairs in a professional manner and be able to properly test out
your finished repair work. So, to sum things up, these reliable manufacturer's that have provided you with just
simple heat methods are a dandy despite what some people tell you and typically have a very good if not great
track record overall, provided that you are NOT trying to heat a something like a total open space but instead
a confined space such as a bedroom or bathroom that has furnishings that help shrink that space that you are
trying to heat, as in a 8'x8' Or !0'x12' ! I still have a horizontal 400 watt quartz heater while set in the low setting
or 1 of 2 quartz heating rods turned on that not only makes for a wildly toasty bathroom in nearly no time alone,
that is not only toasty with the door closed but if you are not careful about your safe setup, you could quite
possibly set the room ablaze! So yah, this has been my experience and I thusly stand by my methods of pure
madness OR I would just stop what I'm a doing altogether!! This is me and not just any other flesh and blood
saying this! My go to in the brands that I had purchased, these are: Duraflame, Patton and Optimus Heaters,
2- Duraflame's oil filled, 2- Patton's oil filled and 1- Optimus Quartz type heater. Two of said such manufacturer's
they no longer make! Optimus I have seen still lurking around since they are most likely "New Old Stock" that
can be had for around 50 clams on a good day but could also be priced at for much higher! The same could be
said for these oil filled radiators which could be typically priced at around 70 clams if NOT higher!!! These stroke
of pure madness chinesium models, you just don't know what in the hell that you are getting, while some if not
most are hunks of junk and most of them too are over priced. So beware, if not be highly aware of said type of
products that are typically sold at Walmart and other box stores by looking up: "Oil Filled Portable Space Heaters"
and chances are that you will be directed to the appropriate web pages OR just do a look-up on StartPage Web
Search Engine, FORGET Google!!! with the description given!!
Cool! (literally)
to be 100% honest, NO, you do NOT have 100% use of your window with one of these units.
in 99.9% of the cases, you lose the ability to lock your window.
I have an adjustable rod I use when my window is open.
It would take a ladder for someone to get in, but it eases my mind none the less.
A 1x3 makes a really good lock if you have it cut to size