I always use NOS parts when restoring old Chevy smallblocks....I never use Chinese crap parts. I just found a an early 1990s PAW SIS branded street performance cam and flat tappet lifter kit (Melling made I think) in great old quality and an original 1978 boxed NAPA oilpump (Melling made)....great old HQ stuff that wont give you those lobe wipeout problems or oilpump crack problems of todays China crap. Same story with pistons (recently found a0.30 oversize forged TRW kit from the 1980s and Erson branded Muskegon made moly coated 0.30 oversize piston rings from the late 1970s) No China - no problems :-)
Mark, those are Vorteck heads? I see valve cover holes along the outside rail. You are pulling full tourqe from snug tight? I'll be installing 062 Vorteck heads on my Gen 1 1985 305 soon so am learning from you.
Those are actually Aftermarket Engine quest heads. Those are what that class of car has to run per the rules. They have both the later TBI and Vortec center bolt and early perimeter style valve cover bolt holes. a lot of aftermarket heads are like that. As far as torque. I snug the bolts first, in order. then I torque to about 45 to 50 ft lbs in order. then the last pass I torque to 70 ft lbs. SLOWLY pull the torque wrench, don't jerk it. stock bolts I generally use a little oil under the heads of the bolts and sealant on the threads. if you buy new vortec head bolts, they will already have sealer on them. if you use ARP, they need ARP lube under the bolt head and sealant on the threads. after you get them torqued down, just go over them in a straight line and check them. I've done thousands like this and never had a failure. I hope this helps. if you need more help, feel free to call me and I have no problem walking you through it on the phone. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'll be installing 059 Vortec heads on my 1985, 305 SBC. Never played with the Vortecs before good flowing 305 head from what I've read. Will use ARP head bolts because they are reusable.
@@Geoduck.Small block Chevy head bolts are ALL reusable. I'm not talking about LS stuff...I'm talking about all Small Blocks from 1955 until 1998. ARP bolts are awesome but they are pricey and not necessary for a 305 with vortec's unless you just want to spend the money. Please I urge you to watch my video on budget head bolts , and watch the entire video as I explain SBC head bolts and options. here's the link... th-cam.com/video/xc7ksd-KtbM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MhPiPrSeolWWv_7J
That makes sense. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I tried teaching my daughter even the basics about engines, figured what better way than to have her help out by cleaning. After 2 days of her sitting in an engine bay cleaning, I figured she'd be able to identify a piston a cam or maybe at least some of the tool names. I was wrong
thank you for making this procedure as simple as possible, you did not over talk while you were getting it done and I appreciate that.
I always use NOS parts when restoring old Chevy smallblocks....I never use Chinese crap parts. I just found a an early 1990s PAW SIS branded street performance cam and flat tappet lifter kit (Melling made I think) in great old quality and an original 1978 boxed NAPA oilpump (Melling made)....great old HQ stuff that wont give you those lobe wipeout problems or oilpump crack problems of todays China crap. Same story with pistons (recently found a0.30 oversize forged TRW kit from the 1980s and Erson branded Muskegon made moly coated 0.30 oversize piston rings from the late 1970s) No China - no problems :-)
Mark, those are Vorteck heads? I see valve cover holes along the outside rail. You are pulling full tourqe from snug tight?
I'll be installing 062 Vorteck heads on my Gen 1 1985 305 soon so am learning from you.
Those are actually Aftermarket Engine quest heads. Those are what that class of car has to run per the rules. They have both the later TBI and Vortec center bolt and early perimeter style valve cover bolt holes. a lot of aftermarket heads are like that.
As far as torque. I snug the bolts first, in order. then I torque to about 45 to 50 ft lbs in order. then the last pass I torque to 70 ft lbs. SLOWLY pull the torque wrench, don't jerk it. stock bolts I generally use a little oil under the heads of the bolts and sealant on the threads. if you buy new vortec head bolts, they will already have sealer on them. if you use ARP, they need ARP lube under the bolt head and sealant on the threads. after you get them torqued down, just go over them in a straight line and check them. I've done thousands like this and never had a failure. I hope this helps. if you need more help, feel free to call me and I have no problem walking you through it on the phone. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Mark, thank you for taking the time for your detailed helpful answer. I understand now.
I'll be installing 059 Vortec heads on my 1985, 305 SBC. Never played with the Vortecs before good flowing 305 head from what I've read. Will use ARP head bolts because they are reusable.
@@Geoduck.Small block Chevy head bolts are ALL reusable. I'm not talking about LS stuff...I'm talking about all Small Blocks from 1955 until 1998. ARP bolts are awesome but they are pricey and not necessary for a 305 with vortec's unless you just want to spend the money. Please I urge you to watch my video on budget head bolts , and watch the entire video as I explain SBC head bolts and options. here's the link... th-cam.com/video/xc7ksd-KtbM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MhPiPrSeolWWv_7J
Once again..... thank you Mark. Saved me $$$. I'm retired so budget is everything.
Am I missing something, the cam and timing chain assembly is already installed 🤔 where'd that video go
Different engine. I think your thinking of the farm truck engine. This is the one I did the cam degree and piston to valve clearance video on.
That makes sense. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I tried teaching my daughter even the basics about engines, figured what better way than to have her help out by cleaning. After 2 days of her sitting in an engine bay cleaning, I figured she'd be able to identify a piston a cam or maybe at least some of the tool names. I was wrong
Cometic makes the best head gaskets, MLS...
Absolutely yes they do
I use Mr Gasket branded ones, I think they are Cometic ones just reboxed.