As an old machinist I have to compliment you on the detailed explanation and clear video here. I would add one thing for those who don't know about taps. Use a four flute starting tap that is nitrate coated. The gold color tap is nitrate coating. A starting tap is tapered and will start much easier and tap straighter. I'll email you on the beehive springs soon.
Just a little note Eddlebrock makes a stud puller kit and all pieces in the kit could be purchased separately at one time. It contained a pulling block, taps and spot facing tool for the studs which used the screw in studs with the radius base and hex head for tightening the studs. Like you, I always used a washer with rocker balls and one of the rocker nuts. Helpful tip would be a little never seize on the stud and washer. Now days most aftermarket heads come with your choice of 3/8 or 7/16 rocker studs. And yes always use a sealer on the screw in studs. If you don’t you will regret not using it. What your doing is almost a lost art. Thank you for sharing.
When I drilled and tapped my camelbacks at home, I free-handed it. If your tools are sharp and you don't force it, you can eye ball it. You can't drill and tap willy nilly. When you do it its best to pull one stud at a time and finish it, that way you can use the other studs as a guide (no special tolls, just free hand). The stud hole has enough depth that even if you're the slightest bit off, it'll correct itself. Just can't force it. And take your time.
Thanks buddy, I’ve been hunting for a complete vortec stud how-to video, gonna pull my 906’s and and add studs and try some port work (first time) see what happens...I’ll check for cracks as per your request before I start any work lol 👍
I've been thinking about putting bigger studds in my 2.5 and 3.4 chevy V6 heads for some time, I've already installed LS springs on the 2.5 heads. no issues yet🤞. but once I get the high lift camshaft I will do the threaded studds. but I was planning on using 1/2" studds so I can install big block chevy roller rockers. ty for the demo. I can easily do that.
Scary right? Haha and no problem! Thanks for the positive feedback Keep a eye out in the next couple weeks for a DIY vortec port job with flow bench results 👌
In a stock configuration spring pressures on a stock head are not extreme, usually only 75-85 lbs on a closed valve. When valve spring pressures increase along with engine speed stock pressed in studs begins to pull out. If your lucky enough to recognize the failure mode and catch it in time engine damage can be averted. If your unlucky, engine damage can be mild to extreme. In the mild mode you remove the heads and install screw in studs. If you are not lucky, pieces parts get hung up in other pieces and severe damage occurs.
@@lloydholt6511 hey thanks. I've always known that higher lift and stronger springs made it necessary to install screw in studs. just didn't know it was that easy to pull em! Thanks for the info and feedback! Hopefully I can avoid the "not lucky" scenario...
@@cuttersperformance I need this info = I bought a 2018 602 crate and I want to put screw in studs. Would you know the size I need ?! I am on Summit and I am not sure what size studs 7/16 ? 3/8 ? I think its 7/16. I have the 602 full manual from GM and no info on that ! Any help would be awesome. Thx again ! Vince
I use Pioneer RM-348-16 studs 👍 Thats a great crate motor! They are abit under cammed, I'm sure thats why your doing rocker studs though haha cam upgrade time? Let me know if you need a good beehive spring kit for those heads aswell! All American made springs 👍
@@cuttersperformance Well I appreciated the prompt response ! I guess the springs would have to go same time as the studs so yeah plz shoot me those #'s ! Thanks again, much appreciated
I did this once to a 305 L69 head and ended up cracking the bosses. I dont know if its a cheaper casting, or what, but I was cringing when you were tightening down the stud. Good Video!!!
@@shaun4bigblocks993 some people are just dense. you dont have to machine anything to use them. that is why they are made. put a little loctite on the bottom threads, then put a nut on the top threads and screw them in until they are tight. evidently you have never used them.
@@shaun4bigblocks993 you don't even need that fancy little machine tool. It is made to sell to citified mechanics. the tap will follow the hole. if you cant tap a hole you shouldn't even be putting gas in a car.
Do the same drill bit sizes apply to tap a MRDS-2920 - Rocker Arm Stud, Steel, The stud sizing is 7/16-14 in. Base, 3/8-24 in. This is supposed the correct melling stud good for a 1993 sbc 350 tbi motor
I plan on swapping to vortec heads on my 1990 silverado sport (350). Thr heads, Cam, springs, intake manifold and EFI. Hoping for 350-400 HP when done. Your content has been very informative. Enjoying it 👍
Great idea! You will have huge gains over the tbi swirl port heads. I put the holley sniper on my c1500 with vortec heads and couldn't be happier with the power and drivability Send me a email if you have any questions or need a spring kit for your vortecs pcperformance1@outlook.com Thanks!
@@cuttersperformance Yes, more SBC content! I would like to see more on oiling systems...stock vs high volume vs hi pressure vs pan and windage trays, etc...
side note if you are doing this with the heads on the block, be aware that some heads have the rocker arm studs going into the water jacket in the heads
Thanks for all the info you put out on the Vortec stuff! I am happy to have found your channel! I know this is an older video so dont know if you'll see the comment now, but have a question that I can't find info on anywhere I look. I have a 98 C2500 pickup that is the heavy duty option (12,000 GVW) it has L31 engine code but has the RPO code for 4 bolt main engine. Had to do an intake gasket a few months ago and pulled the valve covers. My engine has what appear to be threaded rocker studs factory. Have you ever ran across this before? They have a hex where they contact the boss in the head. Dont know if it is because its a 4 bolt main Vortec or what, but I know its all OEM still. Have searched a lot online and never found any mention of this from anyone else.
Thanks for checking out my channel! Any chance those heads have been repaired or replaced in the past? Ive have never seen a factory vortec with screw in studs before.
@@cuttersperformance nope, no chance they have been messed with, I know the history of this truck since it was purchased new. It had never been opened until I got ahold of it. I have recently found your instagram, I’ll send you a pic on there I took when I had the intake off. You can see the rocker studs in the picture. You can also see the badly failed intake gasket too!
I've never had a press stud pull out 20 years running 280 to 300 lb with used heads. Again agreed to disagree studs are a great update as you can use non self aligning rockers but from my experience I'd leave it to the machine shop cuz if you're not 90° square you will screw up the heads as I did in the past. Thank you
@@cuttersperformance I like the 2.00" intake valve idea--more flow than a 1.94" valve, but not as much bottom end torque loss as you would likely experience with a 2.02" valve; on a 350 to 383 cubic inch engine, they should perform well. If I were going up to 415--427 cubes, then the 2.02" valve would be better, I'm thinking... I just want good, reliable power, for towing and pushing snow.
The first stud I started to pull out I guess is the hardest one because that thing is in there I have a 2ft breaker bar on the nut trying to take the thing out
sir have you even seen a SBC balancer seperate.. Im rebuilding a 4.3 chevy,, the sleeve on the balancer had a groove worn in it from the seal. I bought a speedy sleeve and put the balancer in the freezer for abt an hour to shrink the metal. I took it to my bench, installed the speedy sleeve and let the balancer come to room temp. I then took a rubber mallet and was getting the balancer started on the crankshaft. I noticed little pieces of rubber falling out, so I started hitting it with the mallet to take it off and the outer ring of the balancer seperated from the inner ring.,. so did me putting it in the freezer cause this? or was it just old and brittle.. the inner and outer parts of the ring seem to be glued together.. I was shocked that it seperated..
What about pinning the studs? Used to be a thing. Yeah it’s not as cool but it would be way cheaper and accomplish the same goal. I’ve never done it but I’m thinking about it for my upcoming stock vortec upgrade.
Yeah stud pinning was a popular practice years ago. I think once you try it you may realize why most don't like to do it haha the key is not to drill through the center of the stud but just hit the edge of it and thats easier said than done. Much easier if you have access to a mill Cheers!
Worth mentioning there is 3 types of taps. Works pretty good if you start with a starting tap then move to a bottom tap or plug tap. Bottom tap having the least amount of tapere. And not sure on truth but a machinist told me to clean the tap and cast with brake clean and tap without oil. Cast will chip away dry and oil makes it plug up the tap
Have you ever had one of the screw in studs snap? 60 miles on a brand new 383 and I followed you advice in setting up LS springs on the heads but I went with a Z28 spring. I double and triple checked the retainer to stem seal clearance and I had about .050" with the proper installed heights. It was idling in the garage and I heard a loud pop and clatter and turned it off very quickly. I pulled the pass side valve cover and found a rocker stud broken and 2 bend push rods. I pulled the other valve cover and found one more slightly bent push rods. I pulled the heads and there is no valve to piston contact. So I pulled the heads apart and every inner spring was broken. This time I'm going to cut the guides down and use LS beehive springs with comp cam retainers. The lift on the cam is .504". All of the pushrods had wear marks where they pass through the heads, you mentioned enlarging the hole in the head for the push rods...how big should I go? Yes, I used all new parts including long slot self centering rockers and .050 offset keepers.
I have never have one break personally but I've seen guys break them when using stock rocker arms and bottoming them out on the stud, but you won't have that issue if your using long slots as long as the valve train geometry (pushrod length) is correct. So a few questions: You used regular Z28 springs instead of the LS beehives...where the guides cut smaller? Because the inner coil (damper) shouldn't fit over the stock large guide diameter on the vortecs and will bind up and break. Did you check push rod to head clearance at full lift? Its often a good idea especially with 1.6 rocker arms or high lift to drill the push rod holes in the heads to 1/2 inch for extra room.
You are 100% about the inner spring. They went together with no issues but after the fact they did break, I had multiple broken pieces up in the heads and some stuck in the seals. I also think the fact I didn't open up the push rod holes is why they all were scuffed. They will be opened up to ½" and I will be cutting down the guides for good seals and a little extra retainer to seal clearance. I knew I should have gone with the LS springs in the first place.
@@robertries7774 Yeah that's the problem man! Its good it happen right away and didn't do too much damage. And honestly the push rods probably hit because they were deflecting when those inner springs were binding. It pushed hard enough to break your rocker studs...you could imagine the stress on the push rods! Thats why they bend. Cheers! And let me know if you have any more questions
I probably should replace all of the studs since I have it apart. I did manage to get the broken stud out by drilling and heat and an easy out. This is my first 383 stroker and damn it runs hard. I thought my 6.0 LS ran good. I'm 60 and I don't know why I didn't build one sooner!
I've got a set of 1998 062 Vortec heads that just came back from the local Automotive Machine Shop after being Maga Fluxed and Decked. I was told to put OEM head bolts when I reassemble the engine...My question is do I buy new OEM Head bolts for the 1998 Vortec heads...or OEM head bolts for the 1982 Chevy 350 engine the heads are going on ...or is there any difference ? I would imagine OEM bolts for the 1982 350 block the heads are going on to !
Tell me you're going to dino this engine cuz I am curious about the numbers? you did a fantastic job I just know that one buy comp cams the Extreme energy is really close to the cam that you chose and it comes with springs and everything or at least text me back and let me know if that comes as a kit the springs and the cam? PS appreciate the help on the study extraction..& you can Teach an old dog new tricks ha lol
How do I email you on vortec performance stud kit to modify the head I'm also intrested in you beehive spring kit. I'm doing your vortech head swap on my 94 5.7L I'm different on budget been building on the truck for awhile . Thank you for the video they are very helpful and easy to follow.
Hey, whats the part # for the actual new screw in stud ? Im sure it the correct height i need to order . Thanks for all your videos Bruhda. Im doing this as soon as i find the correct studs....Thank you
Great videos! I was hoping that you can help me I have a stock 400sbc and will installing 602 vortec heads on the motor is there a camshaft that you recommend the only thing I will be upgrading on the heads will be upgrading springs that come with the cam
Its not a cut and dry answer for what cam to pick as there are quite a few factors. But I do have a 400 sbc with stock style pistons, vortec heads and a flat tappet cam that I will be dynoing. Not sure how big of a rush you are in but it should answer some questions for you when its dynoed
Thanks for the reply when will you be posting the video not looking to install anything crazy cam wise but just something to help with horse power gains again thank you!!
I am I the only one who would tap that hole free hand (no guide) because the tap will auto center? Or have I just gotten really lucky when I have cut threads? I have used guides to drill holes straight but after that I tap the hole with no guides. This guide for the tap is new to me, maybe have been doing it wrong and just been lucky 😁
Have you ever had any of the stud boss break as you pulled out the studs? This is the biggest thing I'm worried about with this project is having to scrap the heads
I've had a stud boss break off a chunk 1/3 of the boss around and atleast a 1/2" or more down. Started doing these heads in winter of 19/20. Aggravated me so much I wrapped them up and shoved them in a corner, just now getting back to them in 22/23. What I have found is always use heat, always... I heat up with a propane hand torch then keep it warm with a heat gun. I also spray penetrating oil on the studs a day before and then again the day of pulling. As far as the broken boss I'm gonna put a bevel on it, heat it, wrap the head, weld it, wrap that spot then bury it in warm sand on my wood stove. Gotta cool it as slow as possible. I've never had a problem with welding cast and it not holding.
Well thats the debate I guess, becuase some guys say rpm some guys say spring pressure. But to achieve high rpm without float you need more spring pressure So I guess the bottom line is, screw in studs are always a good idea lol Cheers!
Great video. I have a problem though. I cracked an 062 head, bought a new one from OELINE, installed it. It ran fine for about 30 miles and up until I got it to 65mph. Then it started running rough. My mechanic said that one of my studs had started working it way out. He put locktite on it and screwed it down. Then when running he noticed it wobbling. Says I need another head. Why would this happen? Manufacturer responsible?
Question timing chain can I use a double roller timing chain in my l31 stock 880 block I know it came with a single roller I popped the cover open today while I’m working on the engine replacing parts just wanted to ask lmk thabks
I've been following your channel for a while i need to replace valve seals on vortec head is there a set you like or recommend for a stock setup? and maybe a part number? 062 head thanks mike '
I have a question I have a 1991 C1500 and I want to do a vortec head swap and lt4 hotcam with 1.6 roller rockers. What do I need to do to the heads to make them work with my combo? Thank you
I’m using the LS valve springs, # 19420455, on my 906 Vortec heads. Question: what number valve stem seal do I use? Also, what rocker arm do you recommend?
@@cuttersperformance On my L-31 it has been bored .030. I’ve purchased new flat top pistons with stock 5.7 rods. My initial plan was to keep it a 350. However, can I now make it a 383 with the parts I have? What crank (will need part number) do you suggest? The machine shop can grind for clearances.
I’ve got set of 906 heads. Is there preferred screw in stud you use? I noticed the ones in this video didn’t have the shoulder on the. Is there a difference? Thanks
Use the RM-348-16 studs or equivalent unless you are cutting the bosses down for use with guide plates. Guide plates require you use a hex head regular style stud
Would you have to change your push rods? How would one know if to short. Great video currently doing a set of 416 casting 305 heads with these videos in mind
Have you used the proform stud remover tool? Its about half the price. Im cheap but i seem to always regret saving a few bucks just wondering if it would be good for a single use
Will my stock rockers and hardware work with these studs I'm building a 350 with vortec heads with a comp extreme energy 268 I've been told it will be fine with the press in studs and I've been told to change to screw in studs
Yeah the stock rockers will work perfectly with those studs...but to be honest most low lift hydraulic flat rappet cams the screw in studs are not essential. The more aggressive roller cams with heavy springs are what will pull studs
hi, do u have experience much spring pressure (open pressure) pinned studs can take? i have 416 305 heads which will be mildly ported soon..i would like to put screw in studs, but i fear of breaking the stud bosses when removing the studs..i have been thinking that pinning could be a bit more safe way as here in Finland, used SBC heads are unobtanium if i destroy the bosses and need to buy new heads. im going to put comp xe262 cam and 981 springs, and i believe press in studs cant take the the spring pressure if i rev the poor 305 sometimes to 5500
Rule of thumb i go by, if it needs more spring that a Hydraulic flat tappet than you should go screw in studs. (Typically over 120lbs on the seat or 300 over the nose)
Thanks for the great how to vid , just a question though , what brand and part# are the rocker studs you are using ? Ive have some ARP studs but need the stud bosses machined down to use them , using these will be a much cheaper alternative . Thanks again 👍👍
How far do you cut down your valve guides? I have been leaving a about 3/4 of the coil spring wire thickness for a small ledge so the bottom of the springs can't walk around & possibly contact my new seals.
I bought an engine recently n I've never used vortec heads before. They have 7/16 screw in studs n guide plates already with rollers. Matched open plenum intake matched to heads. What would they be worth? I've thought about selling them since I went aftermarket heads. It's a gen 1 400 they were on. Thanks for any info and I like your videos. You explain everything very well. Anyway have a good one man. Todd in clemmons nc
Sounds like you have a great set of heads man. Having screw in studs and guides plates is always nice and as long as they aren't cracked you should be able to get $500+ for those heads (plus more if you have the matching intake)
Well thanks for answering I think those may be a good setup on a 355. I'm getting 218 cnc heads I'm waiting on them now should be a couple more days n I'm ready to get it going gonna be a 406 sbc in a 1988 Ford ranger 590 solid roller 265ish duration 8.8 410 let it rip! Have a good one man n keep the videos coming. Thanks Todd
@@joelmckinney7360 they are not a very good head for performance. Some guys have spent alot of time porting them, and even then don't flow as well as the stock vortecs do
Why did you not use studs that have the nut head built into the stud which bottoms out on the boss like ARP's? Because you can't use the tool for squaring the two studs up.
If you want to use that type of stud the bosses need to machined down or it will sit too high But if your going to get them cut make sure they are cut down enough to use a guide plate as well
@@cuttersperformance Did not know that thanks. Best think I'll just buy new aluminum heads instead of go to all that work and still have not such great heads. Those new AFR budget heads would be plenty good since my pro street car is only about 2800 lbs should work fine.
@@cuttersperformance what vortec heads are these? 906 or 062. Because ive heard that the tool for tapping doesnt line up on the 062 heads(sawtooth stamp)
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Every Vortec head saved keep one of the 9 volt cars off the road...lol
As an old machinist I have to compliment you on the detailed explanation and clear video here. I would add one thing for those who don't know about taps. Use a four flute starting tap that is nitrate coated. The gold color tap is nitrate coating. A starting tap is tapered and will start much easier and tap straighter.
I'll email you on the beehive springs soon.
Just a little note Eddlebrock makes a stud puller kit and all pieces in the kit could be purchased separately at one time. It contained a pulling block, taps and spot facing tool for the studs which used the screw in studs with the radius base and hex head for tightening the studs. Like you, I always used a washer with rocker balls and one of the rocker nuts. Helpful tip would be a little never seize on the stud and washer. Now days most aftermarket heads come with your choice of 3/8 or 7/16 rocker studs. And yes always use a sealer on the screw in studs. If you don’t you will regret not using it. What your doing is almost a lost art. Thank you for sharing.
When I drilled and tapped my camelbacks at home, I free-handed it. If your tools are sharp and you don't force it, you can eye ball it. You can't drill and tap willy nilly. When you do it its best to pull one stud at a time and finish it, that way you can use the other studs as a guide (no special tolls, just free hand). The stud hole has enough depth that even if you're the slightest bit off, it'll correct itself. Just can't force it. And take your time.
Very nice knowing I don't have to pay a machine shop. Love the stock look also
Thank you for this video man, your technique is way more clear and easy that some of the oldest ones here in TH-cam!
I appreciate that man! Thank you
Just make sure the tap is straight and this way works quite well
Cheers!
Thanks buddy, I’ve been hunting for a complete vortec stud how-to video, gonna pull my 906’s and and add studs and try some port work (first time) see what happens...I’ll check for cracks as per your request before I start any work lol 👍
Glad to hear! Feel free to email me with any questions or if you need a Beehive spring kit for your heads
pcperformance1@outlook.com
Very informative and presented in a calm and educational manner. Keep up the good work mate.
Thanks brother! Appreciate that alot!
I've been thinking about putting bigger studds in my 2.5 and 3.4 chevy V6 heads for some time, I've already installed LS springs on the 2.5 heads. no issues yet🤞. but once I get the high lift camshaft I will do the threaded studds. but I was planning on using 1/2" studds so I can install big block chevy roller rockers. ty for the demo. I can easily do that.
I didn’t realize these pulled out so easily. Thanks so much for the detailed instruction!
Scary right? Haha and no problem! Thanks for the positive feedback
Keep a eye out in the next couple weeks for a DIY vortec port job with flow bench results 👌
In a stock configuration spring pressures on a stock head are not extreme, usually only 75-85 lbs on a closed valve. When valve spring pressures increase along with engine speed stock pressed in studs begins to pull out. If your lucky enough to recognize the failure mode and catch it in time engine damage can be averted. If your unlucky, engine damage can be mild to extreme. In the mild mode you remove the heads and install screw in studs. If you are not lucky, pieces parts get hung up in other pieces and severe damage occurs.
@@lloydholt6511 hey thanks. I've always known that higher lift and stronger springs made it necessary to install screw in studs. just didn't know it was that easy to pull em! Thanks for the info and feedback! Hopefully I can avoid the "not lucky" scenario...
@@cuttersperformance No problem! Yeah I sure will, thanks!
I understood right away without having to go back once so yes, it's well explained ! Thanks
I'm really glad it was clear! Thanks for the positive feedback
Cheers! 🏁 🏎
@@cuttersperformance I need this info = I bought a 2018 602 crate and I want to put screw in studs. Would you know the size I need ?! I am on Summit and I am not sure what size studs 7/16 ? 3/8 ? I think its 7/16. I have the 602 full manual from GM and no info on that ! Any help would be awesome. Thx again ! Vince
I use Pioneer RM-348-16 studs 👍
Thats a great crate motor! They are abit under cammed, I'm sure thats why your doing rocker studs though haha cam upgrade time?
Let me know if you need a good beehive spring kit for those heads aswell! All American made springs 👍
@@cuttersperformance Well I appreciated the prompt response ! I guess the springs would have to go same time as the studs so yeah plz shoot me those #'s ! Thanks again, much appreciated
@@freedomofspeech2238 send me a email pcperformance1@outlook.com
With what cam your going with and I can set you up with a kit 👌
I did this once to a 305 L69 head and ended up cracking the bosses. I dont know if its a cheaper casting, or what, but I was cringing when you were tightening down the stud. Good Video!!!
Use anti-seize on the stud treads when pulling them. It will prevent the threads from galling.
Some studs have a raised roll and you can screw them down it contacts the head and tightens. They work great.
@@shaun4bigblocks993 some people are just dense. you dont have to machine anything to use them. that is why they are made. put a little loctite on the bottom threads, then put a nut on the top threads and screw them in until they are tight. evidently you have never used them.
@@shaun4bigblocks993 you don't even need that fancy little machine tool. It is made to sell to citified mechanics. the tap will follow the hole. if you cant tap a hole you shouldn't even be putting gas in a car.
A side note. 4.3L vortec has metric screw in studs stock. You just need to buy ARP studs to run standard size roller rockers.
Great teaching,
Can you do a vid on drilling oil return holes on vortec heads, i hear we need to drill holes so the oil drains proper.
Good video I like your information good Thank You.
Do the same drill bit sizes apply to tap a
MRDS-2920 - Rocker
Arm Stud, Steel,
The stud sizing is 7/16-14 in. Base, 3/8-24 in.
This is supposed the correct melling stud good for a 1993 sbc 350 tbi motor
I plan on swapping to vortec heads on my 1990 silverado sport (350). Thr heads, Cam, springs, intake manifold and EFI. Hoping for 350-400 HP when done. Your content has been very informative. Enjoying it 👍
Great idea! You will have huge gains over the tbi swirl port heads.
I put the holley sniper on my c1500 with vortec heads and couldn't be happier with the power and drivability
Send me a email if you have any questions or need a spring kit for your vortecs
pcperformance1@outlook.com
Thanks!
@@cuttersperformance hell ya I will!! 👍
Great video. All your videos are very imformative. You speak well my friend.
Thanks Tim appreciate that
I use a stack of 5/16 washers that fit loosely on stud and keep backing off the nut and adding a washer or 2 until it pops out. About 20 washers
Amazing work! Thanks for making these videos👍
100% agree, very well done with great detail! ;)
Thank you! Awesome content!!! So much appreciated!
No problem! Let me know if there's anything else you like to know in a upcoming video
@@cuttersperformance Yes, more SBC content! I would like to see more on oiling systems...stock vs high volume vs hi pressure vs pan and windage trays, etc...
side note if you are doing this with the heads on the block, be aware that some heads have the rocker arm studs going into the water jacket in the heads
Not recommend to do this with the heads installed
Nice vídeo! Very good! 🇧🇷
Thanks for all the info you put out on the Vortec stuff! I am happy to have found your channel! I know this is an older video so dont know if you'll see the comment now, but have a question that I can't find info on anywhere I look. I have a 98 C2500 pickup that is the heavy duty option (12,000 GVW) it has L31 engine code but has the RPO code for 4 bolt main engine. Had to do an intake gasket a few months ago and pulled the valve covers. My engine has what appear to be threaded rocker studs factory. Have you ever ran across this before? They have a hex where they contact the boss in the head. Dont know if it is because its a 4 bolt main Vortec or what, but I know its all OEM still. Have searched a lot online and never found any mention of this from anyone else.
Thanks for checking out my channel! Any chance those heads have been repaired or replaced in the past? Ive have never seen a factory vortec with screw in studs before.
@@cuttersperformance nope, no chance they have been messed with, I know the history of this truck since it was purchased new. It had never been opened until I got ahold of it. I have recently found your instagram, I’ll send you a pic on there I took when I had the intake off. You can see the rocker studs in the picture. You can also see the badly failed intake gasket too!
@@BillStraub303 yeah please do, very curious
I've never had a press stud pull out 20 years running 280 to 300 lb with used heads. Again agreed to disagree studs are a great update as you can use non self aligning rockers but from my experience I'd leave it to the machine shop cuz if you're not 90° square you will screw up the heads as I did in the past. Thank you
Man you have had better luck than me, I starting pulling studs on my truck with 280 lb springs
Can you do a how to on installing guide plates? I know Comp has a cutting tool for the bosses
i ran pressed in studs witha dual coil valve spring. took 2 weeks before the studs pulled off on their own lol doing this now
Haha well hopefully no damage is done
Screw in studs re always a good idea
Cheers!
"You're gonna need a good drill" pulls out ridged cordless 🤣
Haha a ok drill?
That's the way we do it , unh huh !😊
great video dude thank you
Thank you appreciate that
Great content, you need lots more subs.
Thanks man, I appreciate that! Please like and share!
@@cuttersperformance hey can you tell me how to get the tools please
I'm just going to buy the BowTie Vortec heads--screw in studs come with them; thicker deck also...
Yeah man! Good set of heads but not cheap thats for sure
@@cuttersperformance I like the 2.00" intake valve idea--more flow than a 1.94" valve, but not as much bottom end torque loss as you would likely experience with a 2.02" valve; on a 350 to 383 cubic inch engine, they should perform well. If I were going up to 415--427 cubes, then the 2.02" valve would be better, I'm thinking... I just want good, reliable power, for towing and pushing snow.
Great job 👍🏻🇦🇺
Wish they made this tool for small block Ford heads. Seems like it would not be too hard to make
Good video
Amazing vid, TY!
Appreciate that! Thank you
The first stud I started to pull out I guess is the hardest one because that thing is in there I have a 2ft breaker bar on the nut trying to take the thing out
Don't get any Easter than that thanks brother
Thanks great videshow!
sir have you even seen a SBC balancer seperate.. Im rebuilding a 4.3 chevy,, the sleeve on the balancer had a groove worn in it from the seal. I bought a speedy sleeve and put the balancer in the freezer for abt an hour to shrink the metal. I took it to my bench, installed the speedy sleeve and let the balancer come to room temp. I then took a rubber mallet and was getting the balancer started on the crankshaft. I noticed little pieces of rubber falling out, so I started hitting it with the mallet to take it off and the outer ring of the balancer seperated from the inner ring.,. so did me putting it in the freezer cause this? or was it just old and brittle.. the inner and outer parts of the ring seem to be glued together.. I was shocked that it seperated..
Nothing you did wrong, totally normal for a old balancer to slip or seperate from the outer ring. Its just old and needs replacement
What about pinning the studs? Used to be a thing. Yeah it’s not as cool but it would be way cheaper and accomplish the same goal. I’ve never done it but I’m thinking about it for my upcoming stock vortec upgrade.
Yeah stud pinning was a popular practice years ago. I think once you try it you may realize why most don't like to do it haha the key is not to drill through the center of the stud but just hit the edge of it and thats easier said than done. Much easier if you have access to a mill
Cheers!
EXCELLANT video ,
Worth mentioning there is 3 types of taps. Works pretty good if you start with a starting tap then move to a bottom tap or plug tap. Bottom tap having the least amount of tapere. And not sure on truth but a machinist told me to clean the tap and cast with brake clean and tap without oil. Cast will chip away dry and oil makes it plug up the tap
Good tips! Thanks
I've only ever used a tapered tap with some tap oil and it taps like butter
Clean the tap brake clean when the fileing build up
Have you ever had one of the screw in studs snap? 60 miles on a brand new 383 and I followed you advice in setting up LS springs on the heads but I went with a Z28 spring. I double and triple checked the retainer to stem seal clearance and I had about .050" with the proper installed heights. It was idling in the garage and I heard a loud pop and clatter and turned it off very quickly. I pulled the pass side valve cover and found a rocker stud broken and 2 bend push rods. I pulled the other valve cover and found one more slightly bent push rods. I pulled the heads and there is no valve to piston contact. So I pulled the heads apart and every inner spring was broken. This time I'm going to cut the guides down and use LS beehive springs with comp cam retainers. The lift on the cam is .504". All of the pushrods had wear marks where they pass through the heads, you mentioned enlarging the hole in the head for the push rods...how big should I go? Yes, I used all new parts including long slot self centering rockers and .050 offset keepers.
I have never have one break personally but I've seen guys break them when using stock rocker arms and bottoming them out on the stud, but you won't have that issue if your using long slots as long as the valve train geometry (pushrod length) is correct.
So a few questions:
You used regular Z28 springs instead of the LS beehives...where the guides cut smaller? Because the inner coil (damper) shouldn't fit over the stock large guide diameter on the vortecs and will bind up and break.
Did you check push rod to head clearance at full lift? Its often a good idea especially with 1.6 rocker arms or high lift to drill the push rod holes in the heads to 1/2 inch for extra room.
You are 100% about the inner spring. They went together with no issues but after the fact they did break, I had multiple broken pieces up in the heads and some stuck in the seals. I also think the fact I didn't open up the push rod holes is why they all were scuffed. They will be opened up to ½" and I will be cutting down the guides for good seals and a little extra retainer to seal clearance. I knew I should have gone with the LS springs in the first place.
@@robertries7774 Yeah that's the problem man! Its good it happen right away and didn't do too much damage.
And honestly the push rods probably hit because they were deflecting when those inner springs were binding. It pushed hard enough to break your rocker studs...you could imagine the stress on the push rods! Thats why they bend.
Cheers! And let me know if you have any more questions
I probably should replace all of the studs since I have it apart. I did manage to get the broken stud out by drilling and heat and an easy out. This is my first 383 stroker and damn it runs hard. I thought my 6.0 LS ran good. I'm 60 and I don't know why I didn't build one sooner!
I've got a set of 1998 062 Vortec heads that just came back from the local Automotive Machine Shop after being Maga Fluxed and Decked. I was told to put OEM head bolts when I reassemble the engine...My question is do I buy new OEM Head bolts for the 1998 Vortec heads...or OEM head bolts for the 1982 Chevy 350 engine the heads are going on ...or is there any difference ? I would imagine OEM bolts for the 1982 350 block the heads are going on to !
Actually my man the heads bolts are the same for all stock sbc steel heads. I've used a Ferlpro headbolts on some budget builds and they work great 👍
Tell me you're going to dino this engine cuz I am curious about the numbers? you did a fantastic job I just know that one buy comp cams the Extreme energy is really close to the cam that you chose and it comes with springs and everything or at least text me back and let me know if that comes as a kit the springs and the cam? PS appreciate the help on the study extraction..& you can Teach an old dog new tricks ha lol
Thanks
Way cool ! Thanks for the info
How do I email you on vortec performance stud kit to modify the head I'm also intrested in you beehive spring kit.
I'm doing your vortech head swap on my 94 5.7L I'm different on budget been building on the truck for awhile .
Thank you for the video they are very helpful and easy to follow.
Currently sold out of my kits =(
But my email is pcperformance1@outlook.com
Hey, whats the part # for the actual new screw in stud ? Im sure it the correct height i need to order . Thanks for all your videos Bruhda. Im doing this as soon as i find the correct studs....Thank you
Should all be in the description, if not let me know
The stud spacing on vortec heads is a bit different than the tools are made for
Ya exactly and that's why you got to make sure the tool slides over the studs. If not it needs to be drilled
@@cuttersperformance Reaming the tool makes it not work on older heads then. I just used a drill bit and some tape to align it on vortecs
LOVE your videos! Wealth of knowledge. What is the part # for those screw in studs? Im excited to get started...lol
Thanks man!
Pioneer part#
RM-348-16
@@cuttersperformance Thank YOU!!! Appreciate all the hard work you put forth creating these easy to understand but informative videos. Fan for life👍✌
@@AR_420 wow thanks man! Comment on the next video as im giving away some key chains to my loyal subscribers
Cheers!
Hi new to channel witch roller tip rockers you recommend ? Thanks
Thanks for checking out my channel!
Check out comp cam 1417-16 rocker arms (self aligning)
Great videos! I was hoping that you can help me I have a stock 400sbc and will installing 602 vortec heads on the motor is there a camshaft that you recommend the only thing I will be upgrading on the heads will be upgrading springs that come with the cam
Its not a cut and dry answer for what cam to pick as there are quite a few factors. But I do have a 400 sbc with stock style pistons, vortec heads and a flat tappet cam that I will be dynoing. Not sure how big of a rush you are in but it should answer some questions for you when its dynoed
Thanks for the reply when will you be posting the video not looking to install anything crazy cam wise but just something to help with horse power gains again thank you!!
Can you do a detail how to video that would help out a lot in the 400sbc community there is not one video on TH-cam as of yet?
outstanding!
I use my bearing for power steering pulley install tool
I am I the only one who would tap that hole free hand (no guide) because the tap will auto center? Or have I just gotten really lucky when I have cut threads? I have used guides to drill holes straight but after that I tap the hole with no guides. This guide for the tap is new to me, maybe have been doing it wrong and just been lucky 😁
What about machining the stud boss? Some studs have a built in nut as part of the screw in stud
Yeah, you can get the stud bosses machined down for guide plates and hex studs
Have you ever had any of the stud boss break as you pulled out the studs? This is the biggest thing I'm worried about with this project is having to scrap the heads
I have not have any crack from pulling studs
I've found lots of cracks on vortecs in the decks though but never from pulling studs
I've had a stud boss break off a chunk 1/3 of the boss around and atleast a 1/2" or more down. Started doing these heads in winter of 19/20. Aggravated me so much I wrapped them up and shoved them in a corner, just now getting back to them in 22/23. What I have found is always use heat, always... I heat up with a propane hand torch then keep it warm with a heat gun. I also spray penetrating oil on the studs a day before and then again the day of pulling. As far as the broken boss I'm gonna put a bevel on it, heat it, wrap the head, weld it, wrap that spot then bury it in warm sand on my wood stove. Gotta cool it as slow as possible. I've never had a problem with welding cast and it not holding.
Hi rpm will pull them out regardless of spring pressure
Well thats the debate I guess, becuase some guys say rpm some guys say spring pressure. But to achieve high rpm without float you need more spring pressure
So I guess the bottom line is, screw in studs are always a good idea lol
Cheers!
Cool video what studs are those
Pioneer RM-348-16
How do I know if I need longer studs than standard? Having the studs installed today and curious about the needed length.
He's like Chris fix's son Chris mod
Lmao! 🤣 I think that's a compliment
@@cuttersperformance it is lol I'm putting vortec heads on my c4 so I need all this content keep it up
O nice! I'm assuming tuned port?
Do you see a reason the pioneer # 850013 stud won't work? They have the hex shoulder on then to tighten it down.
You can use those but only if the stud bosses have been cut down
Great video. I have a problem though. I cracked an 062 head, bought a new one from OELINE, installed it. It ran fine for about 30 miles and up until I got it to 65mph. Then it started running rough. My mechanic said that one of my studs had started working it way out. He put locktite on it and screwed it down. Then when running he noticed it wobbling. Says I need another head. Why would this happen? Manufacturer responsible?
Did the rocker arms bind up? Too much lift on stock rockers us a common issue
I'm interested in your vortec heads upgrade kit.
Question timing chain can I use a double roller timing chain in my l31 stock 880 block I know it came with a single roller I popped the cover open today while I’m working on the engine replacing parts just wanted to ask lmk thabks
If you are running a plastic vortec timing cover you cannot use a double roller
Whats the part number for the studs? You had said they were pioneer brand ?
Ive had good luck with the Pioneer RM-348-16 rocker studs
I've been following your channel for a while i need to replace valve seals on vortec head is there a set you like or recommend for a stock setup? and maybe a part number? 062 head
thanks mike
'
Thank you verry helpful
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Race on!
I'm assuming that the process for pre-vortec center bolt heads is the same. What part number did you use for the studs?
Pioneer RM-348-16
@@cuttersperformance nice, I ordered the right ones before I got an answer. I feel like I won 50 bucks on a scratch-off lol
Can I use a set of self aligning roller rocker arms with this stud setup?
I have a question I have a 1991 C1500 and I want to do a vortec head swap and lt4 hotcam with 1.6 roller rockers. What do I need to do to the heads to make them work with my combo? Thank you
Great content on your channel.
Sub'd
Question what size double ended rocker bolts did you use here, only info I couldnt find throughout the video 3/8 to 7/16? Or???
Pioneer part # RM-348-16
Awesome thank you good sir
@@jaredstewart9979 no problem brother!
I’m using the LS valve springs, # 19420455, on my 906 Vortec heads.
Question: what number valve stem seal do I use?
Also, what rocker arm do you recommend?
Stock guides felpro SS72861
And the comp cams or PRW self aligning roller tip rockers work well on vortecs
@@cuttersperformance PRW offers the rockers in 1.5 and 1.52. Which do you recommend?
@@ds9886 1.52 or 1.6 if you can run the extra lift
@@cuttersperformance
On my L-31 it has been bored .030. I’ve purchased new flat top pistons with stock 5.7 rods.
My initial plan was to keep it a 350.
However, can I now make it a 383 with the parts I have?
What crank (will need part number) do you suggest? The machine shop can grind for clearances.
@D S the pistons wont work for a 383
Im interested in the kit.
Email me at pcperformance1@outlook.com
I’ve got set of 906 heads. Is there preferred screw in stud you use? I noticed the ones in this video didn’t have the shoulder on the. Is there a difference?
Thanks
Use the RM-348-16 studs or equivalent unless you are cutting the bosses down for use with guide plates. Guide plates require you use a hex head regular style stud
Would you have to change your push rods? How would one know if to short.
Great video currently doing a set of 416 casting 305 heads with these videos in mind
Pushrod length needs to be checked but they shouldn't change much
th-cam.com/video/6W8BRyQvfQo/w-d-xo.html
@@cuttersperformance thanks man
If the threaded studs look just like the stock press in, whats an easy way to identify if its already been done?
You'll have to look closely for the rib on the stud that bottoms out on the head
Have you used the proform stud remover tool? Its about half the price. Im cheap but i seem to always regret saving a few bucks just wondering if it would be good for a single use
I have not, just the comp cams one. Gotta wonder if they are the same though?
Will my stock rockers and hardware work with these studs I'm building a 350 with vortec heads with a comp extreme energy 268 I've been told it will be fine with the press in studs and I've been told to change to screw in studs
Yeah the stock rockers will work perfectly with those studs...but to be honest most low lift hydraulic flat rappet cams the screw in studs are not essential. The more aggressive roller cams with heavy springs are what will pull studs
hi, do u have experience much spring pressure (open pressure) pinned studs can take? i have 416 305 heads which will be mildly ported soon..i would like to put screw in studs, but i fear of breaking the stud bosses when removing the studs..i have been thinking that pinning could be a bit more safe way as here in Finland, used SBC heads are unobtanium if i destroy the bosses and need to buy new heads. im going to put comp xe262 cam and 981 springs, and i believe press in studs cant take the the spring pressure if i rev the poor 305 sometimes to 5500
Rule of thumb i go by, if it needs more spring that a Hydraulic flat tappet than you should go screw in studs. (Typically over 120lbs on the seat or 300 over the nose)
im about to build a set of 906s where did you get the studs. first time iv seen them style. im used to guide plate type studs
Thanks for the great how to vid , just a question though , what brand and part# are the rocker studs you are using ? Ive have some ARP studs but need the stud bosses machined down to use them , using these will be a much cheaper alternative . Thanks again 👍👍
I've had good luck with the pioneer RM-348-16 studs
What is the part number for the screw in studs that you use so that I don't have to cut the head...
I've had good luck with the pioneer RM-348-16 studs
@@cuttersperformance thanks I just found your show. Keep up the great work. I can appreciate the knowledge
@@rjlittlefield9209 Awesome! Let me know if you have any questions
@@cuttersperformance will do for sure. This is going to be my first engine build. So I'm sure I'll have lots of questions
How far do you cut down your valve guides? I have been leaving a about 3/4 of the coil spring wire thickness for a small ledge so the bottom of the springs can't walk around & possibly contact my new seals.
Yeah i like to leave a coil thinckness at the bottom to center the spring
What rocker arms do you recommend for vortec heads with around a 530 lift roller cam?
Comp cams roller tip self aligning part # 1417-16 is for the 1.52 ratio
I may have missed it, but where do you get this type of screw in Studs?
Why do some people shave down on where the stud goes?
For adding guides plates
I bought an engine recently n I've never used vortec heads before. They have 7/16 screw in studs n guide plates already with rollers. Matched open plenum intake matched to heads. What would they be worth? I've thought about selling them since I went aftermarket heads. It's a gen 1 400 they were on. Thanks for any info and I like your videos. You explain everything very well. Anyway have a good one man. Todd in clemmons nc
Sounds like you have a great set of heads man. Having screw in studs and guides plates is always nice and as long as they aren't cracked you should be able to get $500+ for those heads (plus more if you have the matching intake)
Well thanks for answering I think those may be a good setup on a 355. I'm getting 218 cnc heads I'm waiting on them now should be a couple more days n I'm ready to get it going gonna be a 406 sbc in a 1988 Ford ranger 590 solid roller 265ish duration 8.8 410 let it rip! Have a good one man n keep the videos coming. Thanks Todd
@@cuttersperformance hey bud what size studs are you installing I know you said they’re pioneer brand ?
Hello what do you think about the 1990 fuel injected head?
Are you referring to the TBI 193 heads? On the trucks
@@cuttersperformance yes that’s the ones
@@cuttersperformance yes
@@joelmckinney7360 they are not a very good head for performance. Some guys have spent alot of time porting them, and even then don't flow as well as the stock vortecs do
@@cuttersperformance I have a set of them on my abc 400 .30 over runs very good
Why did you not use studs that have the nut head built into the stud which bottoms out on the boss like ARP's? Because you can't use the tool for squaring the two studs up.
If you want to use that type of stud the bosses need to machined down or it will sit too high
But if your going to get them cut make sure they are cut down enough to use a guide plate as well
@@cuttersperformance Did not know that thanks. Best think I'll just buy new aluminum heads instead of go to all that work and still have not such great heads. Those new AFR budget heads would be plenty good since my pro street car is only about 2800 lbs should work fine.
I cracked some stud bosses at 25 ft.-lbs. of torque.
Theyll pull out as long as they havnt sit awhile 😂😂😂 then I found out its a bit of work especially on the older crappy tbi heads
Sometimes a little bit of heat works but I find vortec don't usually need that
Cheers!
@@cuttersperformance what vortec heads are these? 906 or 062. Because ive heard that the tool for tapping doesnt line up on the 062 heads(sawtooth stamp)
Do you have a part number for the studs?? Thanks for the videos!!
Pioneer RM-348-16 will work for you
@@cuttersperformance I'am interested in your kit, Iam removing my tired 305 and installing a .030 vortec in my 96 OBS
.030 350
Cky ftw