+epsilontic I put as much as possible into a video. None of this is a secret, it just takes time to learn. I never had this resource available to me and I want to help as many people as I can
+Petes Garage thanks pete! im a novice 89 ford 5.0 notch owner in the market for a engine upgrade/or rebuild for more power than stock. my car came pretty tweaked but it lacks motor. everythings there but motor/trans power. gears of course too. its a utah highway patrol vehicle thats had extensive road race work to it, but id like to get it back to (or close) to where the previous owner had the build. he gave the car to me with the original motor. this is the first video ive watched, dont know where you went with it as far as carb or injection. but i know a injected motor with computer can be an advantage sometimes. (one thing that ticks me off is the cage in this car) blocking the access to computer slightly. (which kinda stinks). im gonna subscribe/keep watchin along with a thumbs up. like the content, i appreciate the material!
Your videos always point out the little things that people often leave out in rebuild instructional articles, so thank you for that. It really gives me confidence as I go into my 347 stroker build.
I've always been a shade tree mechanic and have done ok through the years, luckily it hasn't been my full time job. Pete, your videos show me something new every time! I am going to require my son to watch your videos. You explain every thing better and in more detail than I can do. Thanks and keep the videos coming!!
Pete thanks again for the reply. Yes We fired it up and all seems to be perfect. Thanks again for the AWSOME tutorial videos and great advice. All well to you and family. Ray
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge pete. I'm about to open up my daily driver 4.3 for a head swap. I'm a bit hesitant on the project. All the instructional videos I've seen for months don't cover the entire process. I'm a lot more confident with this added knowledge that I can accomplish this. Thanks man.
So glad I found your channel. Built several engines in my life, but its been a while. Im getting prepped to rebuild the engine in my 67 Chevelle. I alway like to go over the finer details, which is exactly what Pete's videos do. Thanks so much for taking the time to make them.
so glad I found your channel. You're are a fantastic educator. I thought I was fairly knowledgeable where rebuilding engines is concerned. I learned MUCH from you. Thanks so much. You have a loyal sub for life.
Just AMAZING videos, very very understandable and clarifying. The detailed and precisely work he did on that engine is awesome. Once I rebuilt my car's valve head and I had no idea of how many details I wish I could have on that moment.
I'm in love with your channel. I just found it yesterday. I'm thinking you're my long lost father by the neatness of your shop and how thorough you are lol. Every question I have had about my 488 olds stroker for my 69 442 has been answered and I thank you! I'll be buying a shirt for the time you put in these videos. Bob
I'm the type of beginner home mechanic. Those extended kind of engineer level explanations are a little too much for me right now. I'm in a hurry rebuilding the engine of my car. But he teaches so important valuable stuff that I had to force myself to have the patience to watch all his videos one by one all the way through. Thanks.
I try to make it easy to understand with the information you'll need to help you along. Some day you may stumble across the need for more of an explanation and I'm glad you took the time to watch.
Good vid's! Oil mod's should ALWAYS be done on main bearing holes, oil pump holes and oil return holes. Ford FEs are way off but nothing a burr and die grinder can't fix. Scribe the gasket/bearing, then grind away. You never checked the all-important valve-to-piston clearance. You have different height heads (from stock), the block deck was shaved, the valve trains are different ratios, cam timing is different, etc. Also, this 'stack' is critical for choosing proper push rod lengths. Now you have changed the geometry of your rocker arms by using those caps. Your rockers are already too short and that's why you're hitting the arm against the valve spring (yes it's a spring). Prolonged use will cause your guides to wear. The arm should travel equally through the center of the 'rocking motion' but yours don't, causing reduced valve travel. Pull a pair of springs off and measure 'valve-to-piston' clearance, then buy proper length pushrods. Throw those 'caps' away. Hydraulic lifter base circle preload is usually a liberal .035", depending on the LIFTER manufacturer. Simply turning a nut 1/2-turn shoots from the hip unless that equates to the thread pitch. If your threads are 18 per inch (1.00") one turn will be: One inch divided by 18 or .0555" per turn. One half turn is.0555/2 = .028". Is this your stud pitch? Morel-type lifter links and OEM Ford dog bones are different but they do the same job, holding the roller square to the cam lobe. They usually need different length pushrods which can only be determined after the heads are in place. - Dave
That is some great information, thank you very much. Before responding I did a couple things to make sure I was accurate with what I was thinking. I made a computer model of the valve train and simulated the distance of valve opening with the rocker at different positions. Regardless of where it started, with the cam lift, and center or rotation constant, the valve moved near the exact amount for each position. Yes, the latch caps change the start position but they do not reduce valve opening. I'm not saying you are wrong, but I was unable to measure a significant effect. The second point is that the valve clearance was checked. I knew exactly how much I could advance the cam timing before the valve would contact the piston. Those are critical dimensions as you stated. You have an awesome understanding how engines work. I am so happy my videos are being watched with such critical and knowledgeable eyes.
Hi Pete, im about to rebuild an engine for my vauxhall/opel rally car (Corsa A 1600cc 16 valve). Ive never stripped or built an engine before although i studied engineering at uni so ive got a good understanding of the concepts. These videos of your are really helpful and i feel much more confident now to tackle the job with a better chance of having a working, driveable engine at the end of it. Thanks
man u doing a great job. I am a teenager trying to learn things. in every video u are so dedicated to ur work. no other bullshit. u r my role model I tell u
That si very nice of you to say, thank you. I am trying to create a positive environment so we can all learn. I do get some nasty comments, but I delete them because they don't help anybody.
i am loving these videos. Best build videos i've been able to find because of how in depth you are going, and explaining everything so well. Thanks a lot
Your videos are simply the best! It would be great to see you post one on doing the fulcrum rocker adjustment if you ever do an engine that utilizes them.Thanks again for taking the time to post such quality videos!
I noticed that you set the valve lash for a solid lifter setup with a feeler gauge and I was wondering how to determine valve lash cold. All the valve lash specs I am familiar with are listed "hot". I also was curious how to determine and adjust valve lash in flat head design engines. I find your videos on engine building very interesting and informative. Many questions have been answered by you and your illustrations. I though I understood how a compression engine worked but you really made me understand how to make an engine work. Thank you.
Every engine is really different. I'm going to be doing a few more engines so I can do the cold lash setting. It may take a bit but I will get to it. Thank you for watching
Thanks, Im repairing a broken valve in my Honda 2.3 and got some pointers from this video... Even though the lifters and the valves are different. Thanks!
16:24. I think that clamping surface is also a datum. Basically another location tool that is casted to precisely locate the block to be milled on the surface where the locator pin would get in the way. Usually the first machining process. I work in diecast, and CMM data for these locations are very important. However machines can usually be adjusted to compensate when the some of these locations are casted out of specification, depending how many microns out of spec it is. I am quality control for throttle bodies, automatic transmission solenoids and a few other parts. So I definitely enjoy learning more about these other parts and their use.
+Twiztidguy That is really cool, thanks for sharing. I've worked in the engine plants where these parts are machined and I have seen how they get clamped while being machined. It's a pretty cool process
Great video, thanks for making this content it is so helpful to anyone learning about this topic and you are very clear and humble with your knowledge.
Those push rod alignment fingers look like they would rub on the sides of the pushrods and with that metal to metal contact eventually wear each other. Have you seen this in the past? I understand the need to have them with the roller rockers, but just looking at the build and everything is so precise but then the metal on metal… and I mean at a 90 deg angle to each other too…! Good video Pete, will be waiting on the remaining videos for sure.
The push rod guides are not in constant contact with the rods. When set correctly, they never really touch. They are just a guide in case pressure is lost and the push rod disengages from the rocker. Thank you!
When rebuilding a SBC 350, do you use sealant on the head bolts rather than lubricant? Getting mixed signals online. (First time doing this! It's my son's truck!)
Hello I just building up a 331 for street/strip..very helpfull videos especial the oil return wich I already opened in my new Block..will do the same you did with the heads!! thanks for this excellent video...
Pete I know this series is old now but it's still the best one I've come across.. it would be awesome if you got a hold of a 351 Cleveland and done this start to finish on one of them for us Aussies.. keep up the great work man
thank you so much, I'm really enjoying the videos!!! I'm about to start a build on a 72' Cheyenne 402 BB with help from a professional like yourself! Keep the videos coming!
@@PetesGarage Yeah Pops. You should think about making that your tag or something. "Pop's Garage" . Almost like, someone having a conversation and them saying, "hey dude you wanna go to Pop's garage. See what he's up to. Almost like Gramp's garage, but you're not old enough looking to be called Gramp's yet. Pops definitely sounds better.
Pete, THANKS! its been 20 years since I rebuild an engine and your series is better than any other. I'm back in the shop trying my rusty skills on a boat (fresh water) with a 1992 5.0 Wondering where you got your Lash Caps. Found some without the hole in the top. Does that matter? I think for lube its a good thing to have but cant find them. Anyway, keep the professional info coming. Many don't know that a balanced engine is better than putting a lot of big intake this, RV crank and over sized valve that, on a motor and calling it good. You are making a smarter motor head. Thanks again!!!
I hadn't thought about using lash caps for rocker clearance - good tip - have you checked how significant it is for rocker geometry and/or pushrod length to correct it? Many mechanical camshafts only give 'hot' (even with a 'cold' figure it doesn't allow for, say alloy block and heads' increased expansion over iron ones) or 'running' clearances and they can be a ***** to do, with the latter chewing up guages. What I do is to do the initial setting to the nominal clearance then check what they are 'hot', or 'running' compared to the spec' given - then I'll add or subract as required to the cold setting and recheck. It's accurate enough if the 'cold' setting is around the same temp'. It can save a significant amount of time if in a hurry. I also use a 'go, not go' method, using the nominal size and one thou different - it's easy to tell when it's between and is certainly close enough - especially if in a hurry. Not really needed nowadays, but I still have a habit of smaller increments in the torquing down and after the last one I'll have a cup of tea (or coffee for you American chaps) and go around again. Oh, was somewhat surprised you hadn't fully relieved that oil return before getting so far on the (dummy?) build - any material removed will potentially end up in the sump unless VERY careful about blocking the hole and masking off the surroundings.
+GordonWG1 Excellent stuff! Thank you for sharing. I have to admit I cheated a bit. I had the engine completely apart when I fixed the oil holes. i was trying to show how to do it if you had it together. I also check hot and cold, but as you said, it's not that necessary on new engines. And I do enjoy a spot of tea on occasion...Cheers!
Thanks Pete, this is my new favorite channel, love all the in depth details man. If anyone dislikes your videos and has anything negative to say, they should try to make a video... I know it's not easy. Either way, I learn something from every video, keep up the great work!
I remember watching this series like 8 years ago now im building my 302 - 331 stoker now so im benging on ur videos, worrying about valve clearance becouse my plans changed half way into this build, i bought trickflows twisted wedge 170 heads top end kit with a stage 1 cam 499 lift initially just a heads cam and intake deal, also bought the holley systemax upper and lower all new, then i decided go ahead and upgrade the bottom end so i got scat 331 stroker kit with dss pistons, TF said kit was designed for clearance with a stock mustang 87-93 so im not sure, im on last hurdle now waiting on crank balancing
Wow. I’ve been watching engine and car videos in my spare time for years. Just now found your stuff. Thank you for helping me and so many people. AND still responding to EVERYONE so many years later. One detail I’m curious about- match the head gasket bore size to bore size? Any benefit to a slightly oversized fire ring? Thanks again
hi pete, I have learned a lot from you. thanks for support. But So many times I work at Site areas where I didn't get the perfect tools to measure and to learn while doing the work. I am expecting a ruff way to calculate the things in a simple manner. I think you can do that because I consider you as a master..........
Peter, first of all what a great series. This has helped me a lot ! Regarding the push rods can you advise what you need to do to first order them, install and finally adjust the the roller rocker to ensure the roller is centered over the valve?
The best thing to do is measure with it assembled, but, most push rods can be ordered stock for the engine. Install the lifter and wobble it while tightening. Turn the engine over several times and check them again. They will find their natural resting position quickly
You are great man . Please do a video in connectors wires and cables in the car and how can we deal with them that would be very helpful as your all interesting videos . Details details thats what we need and you have that skill
Thank you Adam. I do not have a video installing valves but I have one about cylinder heads that shows how to put them together. How Cylinder Heads Work
In my humble opinion - best engine building series on YT! :) Oh, by the way... Pete, are you working for GM? Please tell GM guys that we don't like that Chevy quits from Europe by the end of 2015... Lots of people prefer Chevrolet than overpriced Opel/Vauxhall.
Thanks a lot for this series of videos. It´s like going to school. Love all the detail explaining. Sure work as tutorial videos for me. One question that I have is, I´ll be installing a e303 cam with stock rocker arms on my almost stock EFI 302 and I wanted to know if I should adjust the the rockers with the "after snug, half or full turn" method. Once again, thanks for such great and precise videos.
port matching is a good thing semi polishing works with carbs and fuel injection because you are reducing the boundry layer of air in the ports over all to increase flow
And this is a great video, may have burnt head gasket. This will really help me do it myself. I do want to know what head gasket I should buy, summit has too many options. I did not find the gasket that you have used in building this engine.
Hi Pete....ready to begin assembly of 4.0 OHV Ford daily driver. Haynes & Ford manual call for compression ring gaps to be .015" to .023". Old existing rings had .035" gap and new rering kit STD size had ring gap of .028". The bores are all in original spec. Then there is a ring gap formula is .. 3.9543 bore multiplied by .0045 equals .018" and that should be the ring gap. Why are all these gap specs so different and who do I trust?
These are GOLD. no stupid music , just clear tutorials. Currently rebuilding a 454, excellent help. Thanks.
454 is a great engine
There is no other channel here which would give you that much of detailed insight from a professional.
+epsilontic I put as much as possible into a video. None of this is a secret, it just takes time to learn. I never had this resource available to me and I want to help as many people as I can
+Petes Garage thanks pete! im a novice 89 ford 5.0 notch owner in the market for a engine upgrade/or rebuild for more power than stock. my car came pretty tweaked but it lacks motor. everythings there but motor/trans power. gears of course too. its a utah highway patrol vehicle thats had extensive road race work to it, but id like to get it back to (or close) to where the previous owner had the build. he gave the car to me with the original motor. this is the first video ive watched, dont know where you went with it as far as carb or injection. but i know a injected motor with computer can be an advantage sometimes. (one thing that ticks me off is the cage in this car) blocking the access to computer slightly. (which kinda stinks). im gonna subscribe/keep watchin along with a thumbs up. like the content, i appreciate the material!
+epsilontic AMEN
If you like Pete's Garage, check out jafromobile. Both A+ channels, could watch them everyday and not get bored(unlike burnout videos lol)
This is the best channel ive ever seen for building an engine. You tell people what everything is for and why they should do it and how to do it right
Thank you my friend, I'm trying to help everyone with the basics
Your videos always point out the little things that people often leave out in rebuild instructional articles, so thank you for that. It really gives me confidence as I go into my 347 stroker build.
It's all about the details. I am sharing the things that I have learned or have bit me in the past. Glad they help you.
I've always been a shade tree mechanic and have done ok through the years, luckily it hasn't been my full time job. Pete, your videos show me something new every time! I am going to require my son to watch your videos. You explain every thing better and in more detail than I can do. Thanks and keep the videos coming!!
This guy is awesome, good gems of knowledge on this channel, very rare yet appreciated!
Thanks my friend, we're all here to help each other
Aircraft engine mech here trying to learn how to build my 69 mustang 302 engine. thanks for the awesome videos!!!
Awesome! Good luck with your 302
Appreciate you greatly for making these videos. Extremely helpful!
Thank Matt
Pete thanks again for the reply.
Yes We fired it up and all seems to be perfect.
Thanks again for the AWSOME tutorial videos and great advice.
All well to you and family. Ray
+Rayalto That is great news Ray. I knew you could do it
I've read many books, but nothing explains how the parts of an engine come together like your videos. Thanks
John McInerney I try to be as helpful as possible. Once you understand how it goes together, problems are easier to diagnose
Thanks for sharing Pete. I will definitely watch the videos again because there is just so much info. I really appreciate you sharing.thanks Artie 😊🇺🇸
My pleasure!
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge pete. I'm about to open up my daily driver 4.3 for a head swap. I'm a bit hesitant on the project. All the instructional videos I've seen for months don't cover the entire process. I'm a lot more confident with this added knowledge that I can accomplish this. Thanks man.
You can do it
Hey man , I really hope that God blesses you bro. You are well appreciated and loved dearly !
Thank you Thomas
Thanks for putting these videos together Pete!
Thanks for watching Brian
So glad I found your channel. Built several engines in my life, but its been a while. Im getting prepped to rebuild the engine in my 67 Chevelle. I alway like to go over the finer details, which is exactly what Pete's videos do. Thanks so much for taking the time to make them.
+ironhorse127 Thanks my friend. Sounds like a real fun project
I've never seen this gone over with such great attention to detail! Amazing! Great job!
I make sue there is enough detail to be helpful. Thanks Dave
Excellent instructor Pete
so glad I found your channel. You're are a fantastic educator. I thought I was fairly knowledgeable where rebuilding engines is concerned. I learned MUCH from you. Thanks so much. You have a loyal sub for life.
Thank you very much my friend
Just AMAZING videos, very very understandable and clarifying. The detailed and precisely work he did on that engine is awesome. Once I rebuilt my car's valve head and I had no idea of how many details I wish I could have on that moment.
There's always more to learn Nicko. I learn something every day. Thanks for watching
U re welcome Pete. My pleassure. Have you ever seen a Plymouth Cricket there in US?
I have not
I'm in love with your channel. I just found it yesterday. I'm thinking you're my long lost father by the neatness of your shop and how thorough you are lol. Every question I have had about my 488 olds stroker for my 69 442 has been answered and I thank you! I'll be buying a shirt for the time you put in these videos. Bob
That's very nice of you, thanks Bob
Great Video Pete your one of the few guys I watch regularly
Awesome, thank you!
I'm the type of beginner home mechanic. Those extended kind of engineer level explanations are a little too much for me right now. I'm in a hurry rebuilding the engine of my car. But he teaches so important valuable stuff that I had to force myself to have the patience to watch all his videos one by one all the way through. Thanks.
I try to make it easy to understand with the information you'll need to help you along. Some day you may stumble across the need for more of an explanation and I'm glad you took the time to watch.
Good vid's! Oil mod's should ALWAYS be done on main bearing holes, oil pump holes and oil return holes. Ford FEs are way off but nothing a burr and die grinder can't fix. Scribe the gasket/bearing, then grind away.
You never checked the all-important valve-to-piston clearance. You have different height heads (from stock), the block deck was shaved, the valve trains are different ratios, cam timing is different, etc.
Also, this 'stack' is critical for choosing proper push rod lengths. Now you have changed the geometry of your rocker arms by using those caps. Your rockers are already too short and that's why you're hitting the arm against the valve spring (yes it's a spring). Prolonged use will cause your guides to wear. The arm should travel equally through the center of the 'rocking motion' but yours don't, causing reduced valve travel.
Pull a pair of springs off and measure 'valve-to-piston' clearance, then buy proper length pushrods. Throw those 'caps' away.
Hydraulic lifter base circle preload is usually a liberal .035", depending on the LIFTER manufacturer. Simply turning a nut 1/2-turn shoots from the hip unless that equates to the thread pitch. If your threads are 18 per inch (1.00") one turn will be: One inch divided by 18 or .0555" per turn. One half turn is.0555/2 = .028". Is this your stud pitch?
Morel-type lifter links and OEM Ford dog bones are different but they do the same job, holding the roller square to the cam lobe. They usually need different length pushrods which can only be determined after the heads are in place. - Dave
That is some great information, thank you very much. Before responding I did a couple things to make sure I was accurate with what I was thinking. I made a computer model of the valve train and simulated the distance of valve opening with the rocker at different positions. Regardless of where it started, with the cam lift, and center or rotation constant, the valve moved near the exact amount for each position. Yes, the latch caps change the start position but they do not reduce valve opening. I'm not saying you are wrong, but I was unable to measure a significant effect. The second point is that the valve clearance was checked. I knew exactly how much I could advance the cam timing before the valve would contact the piston. Those are critical dimensions as you stated. You have an awesome understanding how engines work. I am so happy my videos are being watched with such critical and knowledgeable eyes.
Best mechanic videos on TH-cam!
That is quite a compliment...thank you my friend
HAY PETE, thank you so much for reachin out to me ,you're the man
Any time!
I am an automobile engineering student I am learning a lot from these viedeos
Awesome! Good for you. Keep studying and never stop learning
Very detailed vid, i know a lot about motors, but these detail and terms are what i needed to know
+DevTSix Jerry Cool...I always learn something new every day
Hi Pete, im about to rebuild an engine for my vauxhall/opel rally car (Corsa A 1600cc 16 valve). Ive never stripped or built an engine before although i studied engineering at uni so ive got a good understanding of the concepts. These videos of your are really helpful and i feel much more confident now to tackle the job with a better chance of having a working, driveable engine at the end of it. Thanks
That sounds like an awesome project. Good luck and let me know if you need any help.
man u doing a great job. I am a teenager trying to learn things. in every video u are so dedicated to ur work. no other bullshit. u r my role model I tell u
nobody on youtube gets these many positive comments
That si very nice of you to say, thank you. I am trying to create a positive environment so we can all learn. I do get some nasty comments, but I delete them because they don't help anybody.
thanks man. and i learnt so many things. thanks for all knowledge.
and you got international fans. me from india.
one of the very best channels ive seen in youtube. if not the best.
+uber mensch Thank you very much my friend. I am trying to provide content that is helpful to everyone.
it is superb the amount of knowledge required to cover details that you go to. i have not seen in youtube another channel that does what you do.
+uber mensch Thank you again...maybe some day I'll get noticed and be famous...lol
Pete, thanks for doing this video series. I've really enjoyed watching it and always look forward to the next one.
Pete + Detailed Know How = Great Video Series
Thanks SFDT
i am loving these videos. Best build videos i've been able to find because of how in depth you are going, and explaining everything so well. Thanks a lot
Awesome...thank you very much. Glad you enjoy.
Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!
Happy to share what I know.
Great to see a new video! Now, let's hear that beast run! Take care Pete
I'm getting there...couple more videos and it will run
You should have many more views, I've learned so much from you. THANK YOUU
It's not about views for me, it's about sharing and helping people who really want it. You are welcome, thank you for watching.
Your videos are simply the best! It would be great to see you post one on doing the fulcrum rocker adjustment if you ever do an engine that utilizes them.Thanks again for taking the time to post such quality videos!
+James Winder Whne I do an engine like that I'll make the video
I noticed that you set the valve lash for a solid lifter setup with a feeler gauge and I was wondering how to determine valve lash cold. All the valve lash specs I am familiar with are listed "hot". I also was curious how to determine and adjust valve lash in flat head design engines. I find your videos on engine building very interesting and informative. Many questions have been answered by you and your illustrations. I though I understood how a compression engine worked but you really made me understand how to make an engine work. Thank you.
Every engine is really different. I'm going to be doing a few more engines so I can do the cold lash setting. It may take a bit but I will get to it. Thank you for watching
Your videos are amazing. You are so knowledgable.
Vincent Herbst Thank you Vincent
Wow! Awesome series! Thanks for taking the time!
Thank you! Still working on making more.
You’re a legend, Pete🙏🏼
Thank you my friend
You can't get this much information from a damn tech school....Thanks guys...seriously....!!
Thanks for watching David
Dude you just made my day. Thanks for sweet video and clear picture.
Dude...you made my day too....thank you
Thanks, Im repairing a broken valve in my Honda 2.3 and got some pointers from this video... Even though the lifters and the valves are different. Thanks!
+stan miller Awesome! Good luck
Very intelligent, I'm serious i am learning a lot from this man THS PETE
Thanks Larry
@@PetesGarage YOU are very WELCOME
Great video Pete. Keep them coming.
+Robert Davis I'm trying
That engine paint looks very nice.
Thank you, the Eastwood paints are really great
16:24. I think that clamping surface is also a datum. Basically another location tool that is casted to precisely locate the block to be milled on the surface where the locator pin would get in the way. Usually the first machining process. I work in diecast, and CMM data for these locations are very important. However machines can usually be adjusted to compensate when the some of these locations are casted out of specification, depending how many microns out of spec it is. I am quality control for throttle bodies, automatic transmission solenoids and a few other parts. So I definitely enjoy learning more about these other parts and their use.
+Twiztidguy That is really cool, thanks for sharing. I've worked in the engine plants where these parts are machined and I have seen how they get clamped while being machined. It's a pretty cool process
Yep, I enjoy it. Appreciate your videos!
Great video, thanks for making this content it is so helpful to anyone learning about this topic and you are very clear and humble with your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
this guy is as good as they come!!!!
I am trying my friend...thank you!
Very informative and interesting video, soon as the parts get to Australia I'll get stuck into the 327. Great channel mate .
Have fun
Those push rod alignment fingers look like they would rub on the sides of the pushrods and with that metal to metal contact eventually wear each other. Have you seen this in the past? I understand the need to have them with the roller rockers, but just looking at the build and everything is so precise but then the metal on metal… and I mean at a 90 deg angle to each other too…! Good video Pete, will be waiting on the remaining videos for sure.
The push rod guides are not in constant contact with the rods. When set correctly, they never really touch. They are just a guide in case pressure is lost and the push rod disengages from the rocker. Thank you!
Okay, makes sense. Thanks Pete!
When rebuilding a SBC 350, do you use sealant on the head bolts rather than lubricant? Getting mixed signals online. (First time doing this! It's my son's truck!)
Really liking your videos, Pete. Great job.
+Diesel Ready Thanks my friend
Hello I just building up a 331 for street/strip..very helpfull videos especial the oil return wich I already opened in my new Block..will do the same you did with the heads!! thanks for this excellent video...
Awesome....thanks Marcel
Pete I know this series is old now but it's still the best one I've come across.. it would be awesome if you got a hold of a 351 Cleveland and done this start to finish on one of them for us Aussies.. keep up the great work man
Thanks my friend. I try to make videos that don't expire. I've build many 351C's. They are very similar
awesome videos .its grate that you have put up so much useful information
every vid very well done great detail . thank you !
Thank you very much my friend
Nice ob Pete, you are the engine Professor !
Lol...I don't know about that but I am glad to help
thank you so much, I'm really enjoying the videos!!! I'm about to start a build on a 72' Cheyenne 402 BB with help from a professional like yourself! Keep the videos coming!
+Stephen Lee I'm working on them....good luck with yours
Great video & instructions
Loving your videos pops!
Pops? wow
@@PetesGarage Yeah Pops. You should think about making that your tag or something. "Pop's Garage" . Almost like, someone having a conversation and them saying, "hey dude you wanna go to Pop's garage. See what he's up to. Almost like Gramp's garage, but you're not old enough looking to be called Gramp's yet. Pops definitely sounds better.
I'll take that under advisement. It's too late to change my channel name though
Thank you for making these detailed and well explained videos
+lonkis Thank you for watching my friend
Pete, THANKS! its been 20 years since I rebuild an engine and your series is better than any other. I'm back in the shop trying my rusty skills on a boat (fresh water) with a 1992 5.0 Wondering where you got your Lash Caps. Found some without the hole in the top. Does that matter? I think for lube its a good thing to have but cant find them.
Anyway, keep the professional info coming. Many don't know that a balanced engine is better than putting a lot of big intake this, RV crank and over sized valve that, on a motor and calling it good. You are making a smarter motor head. Thanks again!!!
Thanks my friend. I ordered the lash caps from my machine shop. I could look up the brand if you like
I hadn't thought about using lash caps for rocker clearance - good tip - have you checked how significant it is for rocker geometry and/or pushrod length to correct it?
Many mechanical camshafts only give 'hot' (even with a 'cold' figure it doesn't allow for, say alloy block and heads' increased expansion over iron ones) or 'running' clearances and they can be a ***** to do, with the latter chewing up guages. What I do is to do the initial setting to the nominal clearance then check what they are 'hot', or 'running' compared to the spec' given - then I'll add or subract as required to the cold setting and recheck. It's accurate enough if the 'cold' setting is around the same temp'. It can save a significant amount of time if in a hurry.
I also use a 'go, not go' method, using the nominal size and one thou different - it's easy to tell when it's between and is certainly close enough - especially if in a hurry.
Not really needed nowadays, but I still have a habit of smaller increments in the torquing down and after the last one I'll have a cup of tea (or coffee for you American chaps) and go around again.
Oh, was somewhat surprised you hadn't fully relieved that oil return before getting so far on the (dummy?) build - any material removed will potentially end up in the sump unless VERY careful about blocking the hole and masking off the surroundings.
+GordonWG1 Excellent stuff! Thank you for sharing. I have to admit I cheated a bit. I had the engine completely apart when I fixed the oil holes. i was trying to show how to do it if you had it together. I also check hot and cold, but as you said, it's not that necessary on new engines. And I do enjoy a spot of tea on occasion...Cheers!
Awesome instruction. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you my friend
I gotta say these videos are awesome
Thanks Troy
Thanks so much another great video
Thanks Jessie
Thanks Pete, this is my new favorite channel, love all the in depth details man. If anyone dislikes your videos and has anything negative to say, they should try to make a video... I know it's not easy. Either way, I learn something from every video, keep up the great work!
Thank you very much my friend. You're right, it's not easy making videos
Awesome videos Pete, i would like to see a part 8 though. Lets hear the motor running.....
thanks Calvin. Part 8 intake manifolds, Part 9 Oil Pans and final Assembly, part 10 Dyno testing
Cant wait!!
I remember watching this series like 8 years ago now im building my 302 - 331 stoker now so im benging on ur videos, worrying about valve clearance becouse my plans changed half way into this build, i bought trickflows twisted wedge 170 heads top end kit with a stage 1 cam 499 lift initially just a heads cam and intake deal, also bought the holley systemax upper and lower all new, then i decided go ahead and upgrade the bottom end so i got scat 331 stroker kit with dss pistons, TF said kit was designed for clearance with a stock mustang 87-93 so im not sure, im on last hurdle now waiting on crank balancing
That's a lot of changes mid project
Wow. I’ve been watching engine and car videos in my spare time for years. Just now found your stuff. Thank you for helping me and so many people. AND still responding to EVERYONE so many years later. One detail I’m curious about- match the head gasket bore size to bore size? Any benefit to a slightly oversized fire ring?
Thanks again
Thanks my friend. There really is no benefit, it's best to use the correct gasket for the engine. If it has been bored out you can size appropriately
When I was building out my dads 582 we had oil return problem too. Took it up to the machine shop and tapped the return perfectly. Only cost us 20$
Wow....thanks for sharing that
hi pete, I have learned a lot from you. thanks for support. But So many times I work at Site areas where I didn't get the perfect tools to measure and to learn while doing the work. I am expecting a ruff way to calculate the things in a simple manner. I think you can do that because I consider you as a master..........
+vinod sandeep Thank you my friend. What are you measuring where you need a rough calculation?
That's a lot of information, I'm back in school again 😆😆😆 Great Video thanks William Orange county, ca
I learn something new every day
Good Job, very understandable
That's a nice AKM above your tools. Very informative vids aswell!
+BRAINROTTDAVE Trespassers will be shot, survivors will be shot again
I love America
Peter, first of all what a great series. This has helped me a lot ! Regarding the push rods can you advise what you need to do to first order them, install and finally adjust the the roller rocker to ensure the roller is centered over the valve?
The best thing to do is measure with it assembled, but, most push rods can be ordered stock for the engine. Install the lifter and wobble it while tightening. Turn the engine over several times and check them again. They will find their natural resting position quickly
Love your videos Pete. I like to use aviation sealer to seal threads
I have heard that before. I should try it, but I've never had a problem. Thank you
You are great man . Please do a video in connectors wires and cables in the car and how can we deal with them that would be very helpful as your all interesting videos . Details details thats what we need and you have that skill
Thank you...I will be doing an electrical video including sound systems and in car computers.
Thats would be very helpful bro . Im waiting for it . In details plz
You got it my friend
then they move a little when you tighten them down from the twisting force from the stud . its a pain in the but to get the rockers perfect
do you have a video of you installing valves and valve springs?
Id also like to say thank you for these videos, such easy videos to follow!
Thank you Adam. I do not have a video installing valves but I have one about cylinder heads that shows how to put them together. How Cylinder Heads Work
In my humble opinion - best engine building series on YT! :) Oh, by the way... Pete, are you working for GM? Please tell GM guys that we don't like that Chevy quits from Europe by the end of 2015... Lots of people prefer Chevrolet than overpriced Opel/Vauxhall.
Thank you Tomasz...Maybe I'll win an award at the TH-cam awards next year. I'll call the new CEO and see what I can do....lol
***** I'll remember that! :)
Nice video.
Thanks Pete. Appreciate all the info.
I really learned alot from your videos thanks from egypt
+Baraka Thank you my friend
Awesome video Pete! Subscribed, liked, and still watching your videos 👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you my friend
even though I have a couple chevys this helps a lot and I have to do this soon.
I made the videos to be generic, so you could apply to all engines
Good stuff Pete
Thanks my friend
thanks for sharing the info great video
Thanks a lot for this series of videos. It´s like going to school. Love all the detail explaining. Sure work as tutorial videos for me. One question that I have is, I´ll be installing a e303 cam with stock rocker arms on my almost stock EFI 302 and I wanted to know if I should adjust the the rockers with the "after snug, half or full turn" method.
Once again, thanks for such great and precise videos.
Hydraulic lifters get the half turn and solid get after snug, You have a roller cam so I would think half turn will do.
port matching is a good thing semi polishing works with carbs and fuel injection because you are reducing the boundry layer of air in the ports over all to increase flow
That is correct, thanks for your comment
awesome video great job
Hi Pete
Could you elaborate on engine break in procedures. Type of oil you use, how long, etc.
Thanks! very insightful videos!
Great idea, I'll work on that
*****.. NICELY DONE >>THANK YOU> .. I love to share your videos with my buddies..
That is awesome Terry....thank you for watching!
You're welcome. I will be looking at all your engine building Videos.... I am retired and have a lot of time on hand...
Hey Pete, how did you clean up the oil return hole without getting shavings (FM) in the oil passage ? Thanks
I plugged the oil passages and gently cleaned up the head with a carbide burr. Then vacy=uumed and cleaned it up before removeing the plugs.
Love you’re videos
Thanks
And this is a great video, may have burnt head gasket. This will really help me do it myself. I do want to know what head gasket I should buy, summit has too many options. I did not find the gasket that you have used in building this engine.
+Prashant Khaitan It really repends on the engine, but a Victor Renz gasket is a good one to pick
Hi Pete....ready to begin assembly of 4.0 OHV Ford daily driver. Haynes & Ford manual call for compression ring gaps to be .015" to .023". Old existing rings had .035" gap and new rering kit STD size had ring gap of .028". The bores are all in original spec. Then there is a ring gap formula is .. 3.9543 bore multiplied by .0045 equals .018" and that should be the ring gap. Why are all these gap specs so different and who do I trust?
I'm guessing that it's not a problem for the lash cap to push against the keepers
Very good detail, thanks
No, it is not a problem.....thank you