I wouldn't put anything wedged between the frame and shock stanchion like this. Too much potential to damage the shock stantion, I simply crack it loose whilst the wheels are still on the bike. Allen key and pedal at 9 & 3 O'clock then you can step on the pedal and push down hard on the allen key at the same time to crack it loose.
Leazo- that is a great observation and I’ll probably go back and redo that section. I normally put that stop between the tire and the frame but since the tire has been removed I ended up using the shock. But as you’ve noted, that is not the best idea. Thanks for commenting!
@@AverageGuyBicycleMechanic No worries Dood, don't want anyone wrecking a shock, that wouldn't be a cheap mistake. Stay safe & ride like no-one is watching.
I agree, and between the frame isn't a great idea either as you can damage the frame. I leave the bike on the ground, stand on the pedal and loosen that bolt also
Another option would be to pull the pedal off either crank arm and use a large tube/pipe (floor jack handles often work) right over the crank. If it's long enough you can let it rest against the ground while you break the axle nut free. Use this technique with cars and motorcycles all the time. @@AverageGuyBicycleMechanic
Marc, I think you need a different tip. The standard puller will sink down into the bolt threads. However, this can be solved with some washers or something of the sort to prevent that from happening.
Honestly, just depends on how tight the crank is sitting on the spindle. If it’s the first time you’re removing the crank, then expect it to be tight. You can use a rubber mallet and wooden dowel to try and tap it off.
Hey JBHA, what cranks do you have? I’m not sure what you mean by a hollow BB. If you have RaceFace Aeffect Cranks then the video above will work. Just keep in mind that you need an adapter for your crank puller, one with a tip on it so that the puller doesn’t sink into the threaded screw hole. You can always tap the drive side off with a wooden dowel and a hammer/mallet
On the drive side there is a 10 mm allan head lock bolt over top of the 8 mm allan head spindle bolt. I was having a bear of a time trying to remove the driveside crank arm and my old Park tool crank puller doesn’t work with this crankset. Finally it dawned on me to screw back in both the 8 mm spindle bolt and the 10 mm lock bolt. Then with the 10 mm lock bolt in place loosen the 8 mm and it acts like a self extractor. I hope this helps someone.
@durwood71. Thanks, I have a torque wrench but the purpose of this channel is to help people that probably don’t have access to a bunch of tools, so trying to simplify it as much as possible.
@@AverageGuyBicycleMechanic A decent beam type torque wrench is not that expensive and should be considered a necessary tool for anybody wanting to work on their bike.
Less than two minutes in and I'm cringing. Wedging a mallet between the shock mount and frame to lever against? Breaking a bolt loose with a torque wrench?!
cambone13, thanks for the comment. I'm curious what you mean about a torque wrench? I didn't use a torque wrench in the video. I did use a T-grip with an extender/cheater bar to break the nut loose so again, not sure what you saw but wanted to clarify.
@@thevars7893 You're right, he didn't use a torque wrench, which actually is another problem. You should _always_ use a torque wrench to make sure you're not over- or under tightening something. This is _especially_ important if you're working with carbon.
This crankset is compatible with either Shimano or SRAM. The only thing you need to be aware of is that RaceFace makes a special chainring for Shimano 12 speed. And, that RaceFace uses the Cinch interface for chainrings so a Shimano or SRAM chainring won’t fit on these cranks.
thanks for this guide! i was unsure if my chainring could be removed because there were no hex screws holding it on! This has answered my question! :)
That hammer trick was good. Could not get mine off until I wedged something in there. Thank you!
Thanks for this! Too bad the BB gave you trouble, but useful to see you see overcome the challenge.
I wouldn't put anything wedged between the frame and shock stanchion like this. Too much potential to damage the shock stantion, I simply crack it loose whilst the wheels are still on the bike. Allen key and pedal at 9 & 3 O'clock then you can step on the pedal and push down hard on the allen key at the same time to crack it loose.
Leazo- that is a great observation and I’ll probably go back and redo that section. I normally put that stop between the tire and the frame but since the tire has been removed I ended up using the shock. But as you’ve noted, that is not the best idea.
Thanks for commenting!
@@AverageGuyBicycleMechanic No worries Dood, don't want anyone wrecking a shock, that wouldn't be a cheap mistake. Stay safe & ride like no-one is watching.
I agree, and between the frame isn't a great idea either as you can damage the frame. I leave the bike on the ground, stand on the pedal and loosen that bolt also
Especially with carbon frame.
Another option would be to pull the pedal off either crank arm and use a large tube/pipe (floor jack handles often work) right over the crank. If it's long enough you can let it rest against the ground while you break the axle nut free. Use this technique with cars and motorcycles all the time. @@AverageGuyBicycleMechanic
Um, I get that a bike shop would remove the crank that way but nfw is that safe for frame or shock.
Are you able to use a standard crank puller? Anything different needed from the 20yr old puller I use for square taper?
Marc, I think you need a different tip. The standard puller will sink down into the bolt threads. However, this can be solved with some washers or something of the sort to prevent that from happening.
Very helpfull thanks
Is a crank puller neccessary for removal of the crankset
Honestly, just depends on how tight the crank is sitting on the spindle. If it’s the first time you’re removing the crank, then expect it to be tight. You can use a rubber mallet and wooden dowel to try and tap it off.
Yes thanks! I have a ccp-22 park tool crank puller but it appears to not work with the aeffect, just bought the one you used in the video👍😃
Any ideas how you pull the cranks with a hollow BB ?
Hey JBHA, what cranks do you have? I’m not sure what you mean by a hollow BB. If you have RaceFace Aeffect Cranks then the video above will work. Just keep in mind that you need an adapter for your crank puller, one with a tip on it so that the puller doesn’t sink into the threaded screw hole.
You can always tap the drive side off with a wooden dowel and a hammer/mallet
@@AverageGuyBicycleMechanic ok , thank you , I believe I get now .
On the drive side there is a 10 mm allan head lock bolt over top of the 8 mm allan head spindle bolt. I was having a bear of a time trying to remove the driveside crank arm and my old Park tool crank puller doesn’t work with this crankset. Finally it dawned on me to screw back in both the 8 mm spindle bolt and the 10 mm lock bolt. Then with the 10 mm lock bolt in place loosen the 8 mm and it acts like a self extractor. I hope this helps someone.
It's the shroud of Turin!
🤣… I was trying to make it easier to see the details by not having my yard in the background. I guess an old paint drop wasn’t the best idea.
You should get a torque wrench and take the guesswork out of it.
@durwood71. Thanks, I have a torque wrench but the purpose of this channel is to help people that probably don’t have access to a bunch of tools, so trying to simplify it as much as possible.
@@AverageGuyBicycleMechanic A decent beam type torque wrench is not that expensive and should be considered a necessary tool for anybody wanting to work on their bike.
Less than two minutes in and I'm cringing. Wedging a mallet between the shock mount and frame to lever against? Breaking a bolt loose with a torque wrench?!
cambone13, thanks for the comment. I'm curious what you mean about a torque wrench? I didn't use a torque wrench in the video. I did use a T-grip with an extender/cheater bar to break the nut loose so again, not sure what you saw but wanted to clarify.
@@thevars7893 You're right, he didn't use a torque wrench, which actually is another problem. You should _always_ use a torque wrench to make sure you're not over- or under tightening something. This is _especially_ important if you're working with carbon.
Could I buy JUST the crank arms and throw them onto a full shimano deore drivetrain? Or is it incompatible?
This crankset is compatible with either Shimano or SRAM. The only thing you need to be aware of is that RaceFace makes a special chainring for Shimano 12 speed. And, that RaceFace uses the Cinch interface for chainrings so a Shimano or SRAM chainring won’t fit on these cranks.