Great to see the 17T's putting in some work again, even better to be back to the N54 content mate! Honestly if Dylan wants to take it to that next level and have 600whp+ to play with on the fly, Reflex is still the current "best" option - I say that so hesitantly as my own experience with Reflex and said company was a complete nightmare (as you know), E content analyser issues, wiring issues on the harness, poor/non-existent FAQ/Troubleshooting guides from the manufacturer, super slow support from the company and owner - it was 6 months of throwing money at the car and frustrating emails to that business to get anywhere. Eventually the only thing that resolved it was having other third parties get involved (my tuner) to get me a new controller unit sent out under warranty, even then the "new" harness still had crimping issues on the CANBUS wires (no crimp to wire connection) which would have caused the DME to never communicate with the Reflex had I not of been vigilant enough to check it and sort that out myself. Once it was all said and done swapping the old unit and harness out and getting the new stuff in and fully soldered up - forget those silly T-Taps - took me a week, I ran it straight out of the box with my tuner's BIN file, don't try to update or flash the Reflex, just upload the BIN, test the inputs/outputs and send it! (check every wire end to end on the harness with a multimeter and solder in the DME connections) The other option is to wait a little longer and see what the new "Bavic" unit coming out of Europe will do, seems similar in price and capability to the Reflex. Either way expect Dylan to have to spend $3k+ AUD to get PI operational with controller and new tune, more if he needs Stg3+ LPFP still. Reflex alone for me was $1800 AUD. Or better yet wait another month or two for Stock DME DI delete, go PI only and gather all the other hardware/parts to do everything a Reflex would do, without the Reflex. (Flex, 2nd LPFP trigger, etc - MHD ECA, Speedsty EKPM). But again you already know this lol. Let me know when you want to see and hear a running JMC Single back in the shop :P
It is so nice to see you back up again. My niece who is a very talented and famous tattoo artist is moving to Australia and I plan on taking a vacation to go visit once she gets settled in. My 16ts are still making proper boost 4 years and 40k miles later. Thank you for the inspiration to do the hard work and make my Bmw a beast cheers mate
@@timlad123456 Andrew recommended that I get a custom tune when I went to 17t's and I am grateful big time even though it cost me the cash. Warning though as soon as I got my first safe tune for the first Data Logging anything that was weak on my engine started to act up. but my tuner has been amazingly gracious and has helped me through it all as well as giving great advice and having lots of patience with it all. (I'm in Canada and all shipping takes way too long which I think is probably similar to you guys in Aussie land. But go for it mate!!! My car is so smooth and hokey crap moneys the POWA!!
Are they VIV? How mush psi? What inlets are you running? Sorry for the many questions but I also want to install 17ts and I don't wanna mess up!! Thank you in advance!
@@vmqxdv hi there, I’ve recently sold the car after daily driving for 7 years. They were the 6+6 blade variant of the 17T turbos. Factory turbo inlets then aftermarket intercooler setup. Boost was max ~18psi as I deliberately kept the factory MAP sensor so avoid overboosting
I like accelerating to nearly the speed limit too haha! And I’ll be putting some used 17t’s on soon and I’m currently on the v5 e40 map with the stock turbos!
Great to see you back on here creating more n54 content! A local friend finally just recently got himself an n54 so this has been super helpful in talking him into port injection. Also, definitely best to drop the subframe instead of struggling with the lack of space down there. Especially on xdrive models.
Please get Ken to map it !!!! You’ll not regret it he did mine and it’s epic, truly transformed the car for me !!! Fantastic to see n54 content again 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Hello from France! Subscribed to the channel since the start of N54 content, I am very happy to see that you are coming back in 2024, with something new for fans of this platform. Strength to yourself in your plans for 2024.
I replaced my twins with a complete set not just the chra part I went from above and below. You will need swivel joints extensions of wobble angle for hex torx and Es to get to the hard to reach places. If you have those tools you don't need to touch the subframe. Everything is reachable and you can apply torque easily at any odd angles. For the coolant tube I use sikaseal appliance seal. Best price for an rtv seal and you get heaps at Bunnings. 50k kms since my install with a tune so far no leaks of oil or coolant.
Well, when i had my Hydra Performance twin HP800 turbos installed, the team at Hydra had to pull the motor and subframe out because i chose to have the whole thing go through preventative maintenance before giving it the sauce. Put around 20k on them at 21 psi (600ish whp) with not one hiccup. Maintenance is key on these platforms! If it's just turbos install, the fastest route in my opinion is to drop the subframe and install them..
I have done it both ways sub in an out..not a huge difference here but y’all’s driving on the wrong side 😂..lol and just a follow up I’m still running the FRB+s at 28lbs..😮although I may or may not of had to replace the engine one more time 😮😮..Welcome back 🎉
It's amazing to me that these turbos are still pulling their weight in power to money all the way! I love it!! WELCOME BACK!!!!! Oh and IMHO MHD is the way to go! They're doing so much more with the platform and I think a lot more is yet to come! The multi map feature as well as the Anti Lag (Which works GREAT with the 17T's from my own time messing with it that it just is the way to go! I know JB4 has had lots of things in the past that are great but the future belongs to MHD I believe.
took the rear turbo of my old 535i which is basically heading for the scrap yard because i wanted the rear turbo to mock up charge pipes for the s55 water to air intercooler on a spare engine. basically, i did not care about getting it out the right way and sawzalled the factory outlet out of the way, along with the down pipe vband clamp haha. gave me access to the other vband clamp which i did unbolt, cut the lines for the oil and coolant and unbolted the turbo from the head and it literally flopped out on to the ground. but i do think i have the rear 535i turbo fitted up to the spare engine along with a front, i sacrificed some high flow aluminum outlets and cut the ends off and bought a 2" mandrel bend intercooler pipe kit and have the routing pretty much figured out.
Keep it MHD 2+, reflex. Steer clear of JB. Ive got all the bolt ons sitting in boxes, waiting for my waste gate rattle to get unbearable, then I’m getting 17ts getting to work on my stock e92. Love seeing you back Andrew
Happy New Year. Glad you guys are back. I cast my vote for motiv reflex with mhd. Even though jb4 works its just so outdated. I have daw stage 3+( that's what Shawn said.) He said they perform much better than the stage 3's. I already have the pi installed, I just need the motiv to run it. That's my next project on the table. Please keep up the n54 content
Nice Andrew!!!! Let us know if the v5 E40 OTS map works for you guys. As you may know it stopped working for Christian's 335 after the initial crazy times with that map!!!! Also install a manual boost gauge!!
@@ZeroTo60Tube ...missed you man! I sold my E93 just before your "situation"....it's currently parked outside my house again. The buyer was my mother!! The fuel pump needed replacement and I have the honor of continuing to work on it for her! Lol. My 70 yr old mom is driving an E93, FBO, MHD stage 2+, Xhp stage 3 with a full M3 suspension underneath ROCKET SHIP on the weekends....you gotta love that!! Glad to see you back at it AND to see those sweet 17t's again. I've joined the Tesla gang with my Model S....but I'm forever subscribed and will watch ALL the N54 content you can throw at me!!
I am currently running 19ts as they have a bigger back housing. Would be cool to see what kind of differences it makes compared to the stock frame 17ts! I also had better luck on the v10 2+ map on flex at e50. I was running a knock off 3.5bar sensor off of ebay and it would never give me a throttle closure. Compared to the v5 map the v10 had much more torque and faster spool as well as the same if not more top end.
I agree, I think really anything beyond the 15t with the 9 blade is too much compressor and not enough turbine or AR. The stock housings are really too damn small, and when you get up in the rpm it just can't get rid of the pressure. Our heads already flow like shit, and tiny housings with huge wheels hurts more than helps.
I have never removed the subframe when doing turbos. Pull the front turbo from the top and rear from the bottom. You can use a engine support and lower the frame and you’ll have ample space.
Would you recommend 17T's if I am just planning to run pump 91/93 as a Daily Driver. Or would you recommend I save up for a SpeedTech Top Mount kit with a 6266, my only issue is that I believe I won't reap the benefits of a ST setup on pump and possible lose the DD aspect?
Cheapest is JB4 with high flow backend flash from JB4's website (I did a 11.7 1/4 19T's) , But I'd recommend Maxxecu with port injection and E85, But the transmission will need changing unless it's a DCT, to a 8HP70
Subframe out. Once you do it a few times, it's easy, and it gives you full access to the entire assemblies without interference. You just need the overhead engine support bar in place.
Yep definitely take out the subframe. Although I am xdrive so it's not optional. If I was RWD I would still remove it, nothing worse than trying to squeeze hands in tight places. Even on the xdrive it only takes 30 minutes to pull the subframe, I can have axles and the entire suspension out in under and hour. I have done the job too many times to count, it's not hard at all.
I am at the same crossroad with my car with 17T hybrids. I have the JB4, but the per cylinder PI control of reflex is what draws me towards it. However, this means another $700+... Custom tune will not be cheaper on reflex over jb...
Definitely go PI. At about 20-22 PSI HPFP is maxed out and will risk lean condition. If he stays at 20 psi he’s still good for 460-475whp on 93OCT, 500-550whp e30. PI will net more boost and higher hp
May not be faster but it’s much easier on your body and patience to drop the subframe with engine or take off the front and pull engine out depending on if you have a lift or not.
Woot, n54 content! I am looking to upgrade my twins and was looking at the RB 19t but now I am not sure if the 17t is a better option. Knowing what you know now, you would go 17t due to heat?
Everyone having so much fun with their N54s... while mine only has problems and i own it since day 1 and it gets amazing maintenance. Nearly everything brand new from Injectors to pumps, now my batterie isnt charging correctly and i have 15v on the battery while the car is running, flickering lights, cant find a ground problem, no carshop can find any problem, its a nightmare and i love the car so much and dont wanna sell it. Amazing stuff, you do, but the best is that 8hp ^^ every car needs an 8hp.
@@actionmade My alternator was gone, its a brand new one. Had the problem that after the change it wouldnt charge. Had to reset the adaptations for the batterie, to get it charging again. It started with 14.5V and now after 3 month its at 15V... thought its gonna be a ground problem, but couldnt find any by meassuring and replacing the ground strap.
The charge system is relatively simple once you get your head around it..... However that BSD bus can be a nightmare. I have seen charging issues from faulty waterpumps. I havent done it myself, but i think you should be able to remove the connection between the alternator and BSD bus, alternator should just go to a default charging state of 14v or 14.5v. If you do some research on that approach you will be able to determine if the new alternator and reg is the issue.
On the topic of Chinese parts, how have the Dicase brake kits been since your last video covering them? Just wanted to check on their longevity from your experience. Your videos on them have pushed me to get in contact with them for a Subaru application. Thank you so much for the informative videos! Love from the Philippines.
Run MHD E30 and it will rip it still runs 18psi but ups the timing a bit , my manual 135 ran 11.8 1/4 times consistent and smooth, I think de sensitising might yield a bit more power
hey brotha any thoughts on top end power 17t vs 19t turbos ? i plan to stay DI only, aiming for 550 wheel, maybe low 20s psi on e40. the reason i’m leaning towards 19t is because my priority is top end power, i don’t care too much for low end spool as that is what damages the motor anyways. i’d imagine 17t being smaller means it won’t hold as much hp and tq above 5.5-6k. any help you can provide would greatly help bro thanks!
@@ZeroTo60Tube oh okay thanks for your insight. do you care to comment at all on v3 vs v4 19t? besides the manifold being different i can’t seem to find anything solid. thanks
11 blade 19t should be the winner. I just dont know anyone that has had as good of a run with them vs 17t 6 blade. Mind you, i think if you keep power levels sensible you should be ok with either.
JB4 is JUNK all of the cars I build are MHD + Motive, I haven't used AIC but I've heard good things. Dont cheap out it'll make your life 100x easier in the future. P.S In my Opintion JB4 is a fosil
@@patrickreddy5332 Mine randomly decides to stop talking over canbus. It will come good without intervention after several minutes, but it's a proper PITA. I have a friend who spent literally 9 months trying to get it to work. In the end it was a faulty unit. I have heard reports of bad wiring harnesses as well - in fact mine required repair from new. I am yet to hear of a single, hassle-free Reflex+ installation. When it works, it gets the job done, but TBH I'm keen to move on from it.
Even with a base map this thing will fly. Im at around 500 FWHP with 17T (UK dyno numbers!) But i still have more tuning left. Will be adding CP meth soon too. Hoping for a safe 550 at the fly
500 crank sounds about right - I made 444whp on 17T's and DI only... for about 1,000km. And then about 4,000km, And then more more stinking China turbos for me 😅 Meth should get you to at least 600 crank.
what timeing did the 22psi pull have? i have 19ts and my e30 map is at 22 psi but idk my timing. i do a 8.02 60-130 im just trying to get a ballpark of my whp i just say 500 but idk any guesses?
also i am thinking about doing reflex with flex fuel but i heard from Ali from swap depot/ vehicle virals that reflex has issues not being able to read flex fuel sensors and the solution hasnt been figured out yet. How widespread is this problem?
I have been running the reflex+ since it came out without any issues with the flexfuel..the only minor thing I notice is the eth content increase when WOT but only by a point or 2…
That's totally my fear! I was going to mod my car but I greatly fear dumping all this money into it only to have the engine take a poop and I'm out big bucks to get it all back again. I think if the N54 dies, I'll just go 2jz or LS swap it. I fear the N54, built or not, is just too fussy and unreliable. B58 would be great but all those newer cars are so expensive and I'd be starting all over on the modding journey after dropping all that dough to get the car in the first place. Instead, I could put that money towards an engine swap and be done with it. Cheaper than a newer car and it'd be modded the way I want too. So what did you move to after the N54? Did you just get out of fun cars altogether or get something else?
@@topfueljunkie100 I really enjoyed my N54 and it served me well for about 7 years without a car payment, but those injectors really did it to me when it came to a decision about building the block. I have never owned a v8 before but decided to get into a gen 3 coyote. I am really enjoying the newer car and will boost it whenever I get bored of being naturally aspirated.
@@boostjunkie27 It really is crazy about the price of the injectors these days isn't it,? A new engine is probably $3.5k I'm guessing and then the injectors themselves cost nearly as much at around $3k for a set of 6 last I checked...... That's $500 per injector! That's just crazy. I thought about doing the same as you and getting a newer Mustang, especially since I used to own a couple Cobras back in the day so there's a bit of nostalgia involved. I still miss those cars but they don't hold a candle to the E90/E92 in handling, braking, interior amenities, and overall driving experience. The sound those V8s made were sure better though! The new Mustangs are undoubtedly better than the 96-98 model year ones I had, I just feel for me that I'd lose some of the uniqueness of owning a car like my E92 and instead blend in with everyone else who seems to own a Mustang these days. I also fear the interior will leave me wanting as compared to the nice interiors common on these German cars. I've considered getting an E9x M3 to get that V8 sound, NA fun, and still be able to keep the same interior and exterior I have now while getting a decent upgrade in handling. But after owning a torquey twin turbo engine like the N54, I bet that high-revving S65 engine would leave me feeling underpowered. You can always supercharge it but then you're right back into an expensive engine to upkeep which, if it goes south, is expensive to repair and probably not super reliable since you are putting greater load on it than it was designed to handle. If you want to build that engine to handle the power, better have some deep pockets! So I'm still lost on what I want to do. I'll probably just put some quality hybrids on this and keep it around the 500whp level so it will retain some reliability and if that becomes boring I'll have to engine swap it. Main problem is, the desire for power seems never ending which only makes the expense worse! It's a vicious cycle! Sigh......the things we do for our love of the hobby.....
WE BACK BOYSSSSSSSSS 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Yes!!! you wouldn't believe how long I've been looking forward to some N54 content 🎉🎉🎉
About 18 months ?
Thank you
Great to see the 17T's putting in some work again, even better to be back to the N54 content mate!
Honestly if Dylan wants to take it to that next level and have 600whp+ to play with on the fly, Reflex is still the current "best" option - I say that so hesitantly as my own experience with Reflex and said company was a complete nightmare (as you know), E content analyser issues, wiring issues on the harness, poor/non-existent FAQ/Troubleshooting guides from the manufacturer, super slow support from the company and owner - it was 6 months of throwing money at the car and frustrating emails to that business to get anywhere. Eventually the only thing that resolved it was having other third parties get involved (my tuner) to get me a new controller unit sent out under warranty, even then the "new" harness still had crimping issues on the CANBUS wires (no crimp to wire connection) which would have caused the DME to never communicate with the Reflex had I not of been vigilant enough to check it and sort that out myself. Once it was all said and done swapping the old unit and harness out and getting the new stuff in and fully soldered up - forget those silly T-Taps - took me a week, I ran it straight out of the box with my tuner's BIN file, don't try to update or flash the Reflex, just upload the BIN, test the inputs/outputs and send it! (check every wire end to end on the harness with a multimeter and solder in the DME connections)
The other option is to wait a little longer and see what the new "Bavic" unit coming out of Europe will do, seems similar in price and capability to the Reflex. Either way expect Dylan to have to spend $3k+ AUD to get PI operational with controller and new tune, more if he needs Stg3+ LPFP still. Reflex alone for me was $1800 AUD.
Or better yet wait another month or two for Stock DME DI delete, go PI only and gather all the other hardware/parts to do everything a Reflex would do, without the Reflex. (Flex, 2nd LPFP trigger, etc - MHD ECA, Speedsty EKPM). But again you already know this lol.
Let me know when you want to see and hear a running JMC Single back in the shop :P
As always thank you for the valid and detailed info!
It is so nice to see you back up again. My niece who is a very talented and famous tattoo artist is moving to Australia and I plan on taking a vacation to go visit once she gets settled in. My 16ts are still making proper boost 4 years and 40k miles later. Thank you for the inspiration to do the hard work and make my Bmw a beast cheers mate
Man that’s goes to show how good they are. Do you have a custom tune?
@@ZeroTo60Tube stage 2 of the shelf map mhd version 9
@@timlad123456 Andrew recommended that I get a custom tune when I went to 17t's and I am grateful big time even though it cost me the cash. Warning though as soon as I got my first safe tune for the first Data Logging anything that was weak on my engine started to act up. but my tuner has been amazingly gracious and has helped me through it all as well as giving great advice and having lots of patience with it all. (I'm in Canada and all shipping takes way too long which I think is probably similar to you guys in Aussie land. But go for it mate!!! My car is so smooth and hokey crap moneys the POWA!!
Good to see the n54 content back
I am so glad you are doing N54 content again. Your videos inspired me. I am running 19Ts and KingTec rods and pistons. Best of luck!
How did you find the king tech rods and pistons?
Im interested in the KingTec Rods and Pistons aswell!
Agree with Reflex+
Ken’s hybrid maps are awesome.
So stoked with the 17t’s !!! 🙏🏽😁
I am sticking to DI only on my single car until Nexsys release the stock DME DI delete, simplifying the setup as much as possible is the best way IMO
Where's that info at?
I’ve been running my 17ts now for over 4 years. Had no issues still. Done about 30,000kms.
Are they VIV? How mush psi? What inlets are you running? Sorry for the many questions but I also want to install 17ts and I don't wanna mess up!! Thank you in advance!
@@vmqxdv hi there, I’ve recently sold the car after daily driving for 7 years. They were the 6+6 blade variant of the 17T turbos. Factory turbo inlets then aftermarket intercooler setup. Boost was max ~18psi as I deliberately kept the factory MAP sensor so avoid overboosting
@@danielanderson9118 Thank you 🙏🏻
I like accelerating to nearly the speed limit too haha!
And I’ll be putting some used 17t’s on soon and I’m currently on the v5 e40 map with the stock turbos!
FINALLY, literally have been waiting all this time to see this, so happy to see your car Andrew
Great to see you back on here creating more n54 content! A local friend finally just recently got himself an n54 so this has been super helpful in talking him into port injection. Also, definitely best to drop the subframe instead of struggling with the lack of space down there. Especially on xdrive models.
Please get Ken to map it !!!! You’ll not regret it he did mine and it’s epic, truly transformed the car for me !!! Fantastic to see n54 content again 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Hello from France! Subscribed to the channel since the start of N54 content, I am very happy to see that you are coming back in 2024, with something new for fans of this platform.
Strength to yourself in your plans for 2024.
Hey, thanks!
I replaced my twins with a complete set not just the chra part I went from above and below. You will need swivel joints extensions of wobble angle for hex torx and Es to get to the hard to reach places. If you have those tools you don't need to touch the subframe. Everything is reachable and you can apply torque easily at any odd angles. For the coolant tube I use sikaseal appliance seal. Best price for an rtv seal and you get heaps at Bunnings. 50k kms since my install with a tune so far no leaks of oil or coolant.
glad to see you back, missed this series!! no jb4!
Well, when i had my Hydra Performance twin HP800 turbos installed, the team at Hydra had to pull the motor and subframe out because i chose to have the whole thing go through preventative maintenance before giving it the sauce. Put around 20k on them at 21 psi (600ish whp) with not one hiccup. Maintenance is key on these platforms! If it's just turbos install, the fastest route in my opinion is to drop the subframe and install them..
I have done it both ways sub in an out..not a huge difference here but y’all’s driving on the wrong side 😂..lol and just a follow up I’m still running the FRB+s at 28lbs..😮although I may or may not of had to replace the engine one more time 😮😮..Welcome back 🎉
Haha yes yes we are on the wrong side.
It's amazing to me that these turbos are still pulling their weight in power to money all the way! I love it!! WELCOME BACK!!!!! Oh and IMHO MHD is the way to go! They're doing so much more with the platform and I think a lot more is yet to come! The multi map feature as well as the Anti Lag (Which works GREAT with the 17T's from my own time messing with it that it just is the way to go! I know JB4 has had lots of things in the past that are great but the future belongs to MHD I believe.
Thanks dude!!!!
Super nice to see the N54 content again, thought it was an old video till I saw the upload date. Built my 17T car following your videos back then.
More to come!
I will always love this channel.
Back in N54 business , Thanks Andrew, please do us a reflex video pls
Andrew you gotta start working with Viv V4 19Ts man really! ❤️
Maybe one day! Do run those?
took the rear turbo of my old 535i which is basically heading for the scrap yard because i wanted the rear turbo to mock up charge pipes for the s55 water to air intercooler on a spare engine. basically, i did not care about getting it out the right way and sawzalled the factory outlet out of the way, along with the down pipe vband clamp haha. gave me access to the other vband clamp which i did unbolt, cut the lines for the oil and coolant and unbolted the turbo from the head and it literally flopped out on to the ground. but i do think i have the rear 535i turbo fitted up to the spare engine along with a front, i sacrificed some high flow aluminum outlets and cut the ends off and bought a 2" mandrel bend intercooler pipe kit and have the routing pretty much figured out.
Yes, finally N54 content. Thanks guys. Dutch regards, Nico.
Keep it MHD 2+, reflex. Steer clear of JB.
Ive got all the bolt ons sitting in boxes, waiting for my waste gate rattle to get unbearable, then I’m getting 17ts getting to work on my stock e92. Love seeing you back Andrew
Happy New Year. Glad you guys are back. I cast my vote for motiv reflex with mhd. Even though jb4 works its just so outdated. I have daw stage 3+( that's what Shawn said.) He said they perform much better than the stage 3's. I already have the pi installed, I just need the motiv to run it. That's my next project on the table. Please keep up the n54 content
BEEN TOO LONG MAN I LOVE THIS CONTENT!!!
Ditch the JB4 and dont look back. Reflex is king now
Nice Andrew!!!! Let us know if the v5 E40 OTS map works for you guys. As you may know it stopped working for Christian's 335 after the initial crazy times with that map!!!! Also install a manual boost gauge!!
I did not know that it stopped working.
Somehow....EVERYTHING seems to be right with the world again!!! Hallelujah!!!
🎉🎉🎉🎉
@@ZeroTo60Tube ...missed you man!
I sold my E93 just before your "situation"....it's currently parked outside my house again. The buyer was my mother!! The fuel pump needed replacement and I have the honor of continuing to work on it for her! Lol. My 70 yr old mom is driving an E93, FBO, MHD stage 2+, Xhp stage 3 with a full M3 suspension underneath ROCKET SHIP on the weekends....you gotta love that!!
Glad to see you back at it AND to see those sweet 17t's again. I've joined the Tesla gang with my Model S....but I'm forever subscribed and will watch ALL the N54 content you can throw at me!!
Zero to Sixty N54 content!!!! Late Chrissy present! Great to see you out n about Andrew
I am currently running 19ts as they have a bigger back housing. Would be cool to see what kind of differences it makes compared to the stock frame 17ts! I also had better luck on the v10 2+ map on flex at e50. I was running a knock off 3.5bar sensor off of ebay and it would never give me a throttle closure. Compared to the v5 map the v10 had much more torque and faster spool as well as the same if not more top end.
Welcome back
Thank you!
Andrew it seems the 17t is the sweet spot , I have lost 2 rear turbo turbines on my viv 19 tees
I agree, I think really anything beyond the 15t with the 9 blade is too much compressor and not enough turbine or AR. The stock housings are really too damn small, and when you get up in the rpm it just can't get rid of the pressure. Our heads already flow like shit, and tiny housings with huge wheels hurts more than helps.
how much psi were you running on the 19t?
I have never removed the subframe when doing turbos. Pull the front turbo from the top and rear from the bottom. You can use a engine support and lower the frame and you’ll have ample space.
That would be nice. Us RHD people do have a steering rack and coloumn in the way. I still dont know how Dan does it with the subframe in place.
Would you recommend 17T's if I am just planning to run pump 91/93 as a Daily Driver. Or would you recommend I save up for a SpeedTech Top Mount kit with a 6266, my only issue is that I believe I won't reap the benefits of a ST setup on pump and possible lose the DD aspect?
Cheapest is JB4 with high flow backend flash from JB4's website (I did a 11.7 1/4 19T's) , But I'd recommend Maxxecu with port injection and E85, But the transmission will need changing unless it's a DCT, to a 8HP70
Subframe out. Once you do it a few times, it's easy, and it gives you full access to the entire assemblies without interference. You just need the overhead engine support bar in place.
Yep definitely take out the subframe. Although I am xdrive so it's not optional. If I was RWD I would still remove it, nothing worse than trying to squeeze hands in tight places. Even on the xdrive it only takes 30 minutes to pull the subframe, I can have axles and the entire suspension out in under and hour. I have done the job too many times to count, it's not hard at all.
He's back! Let's goooo
Man! Nice to see you here again! How’s mx5 and dct n54 going?
I am at the same crossroad with my car with 17T hybrids. I have the JB4, but the per cylinder PI control of reflex is what draws me towards it. However, this means another $700+... Custom tune will not be cheaper on reflex over jb...
Jb4 with mhd bef. Been working well w/ my 17ts w/ port injection. 7.72s 60-130
Definitely go PI. At about 20-22 PSI HPFP is maxed out and will risk lean condition. If he stays at 20 psi he’s still good for 460-475whp on 93OCT, 500-550whp e30.
PI will net more boost and higher hp
do you know what channel you are on?
Good info
@@viktorbarsukov2894 Are you? He literally asked us to chime in and I was just about to write something similar.
@@Cmanns05 I’m pretty sure he asked what port injection controller to go with not whether it needs port injection or not he knows it needs more fuel.
@@viktorbarsukov2894 He also said they may not depending on the tune.
Welcome back. Missed the BMW content. Also miss "Dave".
May not be faster but it’s much easier on your body and patience to drop the subframe with engine or take off the front and pull engine out depending on if you have a lift or not.
Any feedback on the pulsar single please.hows the turbo holding up
Unfortunately it hasnt done much work at all.
What happens with no DI, 22psi peak and tune around the HPFP pressure dip? Like 17.5 psi @ 4k.
I dont know the answer to that tbh.
Nexsys is apparently dropping Ecu tune to run w MHD and port injection . No added controllers . Hopefully be out soon
Anyone knows what sound is the hissing on dyno pull at 2:10 my car makes the same sound and i thought its boost leak
Yay, N54 content wooooooo!
I miss seeing these videos on the n54s man love your content wish i could meet you in person.
Maybe one day! Where are you based?
@@ZeroTo60Tube America so its a long shot lol.
Woot, n54 content!
I am looking to upgrade my twins and was looking at the RB 19t but now I am not sure if the 17t is a better option. Knowing what you know now, you would go 17t due to heat?
I think 17T is fine. The 19Ts will make more power, however more heat more issues and so on.
Everyone having so much fun with their N54s... while mine only has problems and i own it since day 1 and it gets amazing maintenance. Nearly everything brand new from Injectors to pumps, now my batterie isnt charging correctly and i have 15v on the battery while the car is running, flickering lights, cant find a ground problem, no carshop can find any problem, its a nightmare and i love the car so much and dont wanna sell it. Amazing stuff, you do, but the best is that 8hp ^^ every car needs an 8hp.
@@actionmade My alternator was gone, its a brand new one. Had the problem that after the change it wouldnt charge. Had to reset the adaptations for the batterie, to get it charging again. It started with 14.5V and now after 3 month its at 15V... thought its gonna be a ground problem, but couldnt find any by meassuring and replacing the ground strap.
The charge system is relatively simple once you get your head around it..... However that BSD bus can be a nightmare. I have seen charging issues from faulty waterpumps. I havent done it myself, but i think you should be able to remove the connection between the alternator and BSD bus, alternator should just go to a default charging state of 14v or 14.5v. If you do some research on that approach you will be able to determine if the new alternator and reg is the issue.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thx alot, will try this approach.
Glad to have more N54 videos!
More to come!
Reflex seems to be the new hotness
On the topic of Chinese parts, how have the Dicase brake kits been since your last video covering them?
Just wanted to check on their longevity from your experience. Your videos on them have pushed me to get in contact with them for a Subaru application.
Thank you so much for the informative videos! Love from the Philippines.
To be honest none of them have had much use. But all in all, they are great for the money.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Thank you so much!
I would try the midnight Motorsport FOG’R and do some testing as it would be a budget friendly option and suit the power to size turbo
Run MHD E30 and it will rip it still runs 18psi but ups the timing a bit , my manual 135 ran 11.8 1/4 times consistent and smooth, I think de sensitising might yield a bit more power
Try the Bavic. Claims to cover PI and should cost less than the Reflex. Might have to wait for a demo unit though as I don't think it's released yet.
I have seen a little on the Bavic. Keen to see if they can bring the canbus integration like the Reflex does.
Reflex is the only way to go. I’ve ran the JB4, AIC, and the Reflex and car never ran better than when on reflex
hey brotha any thoughts on top end power 17t vs 19t turbos ? i plan to stay DI only, aiming for 550 wheel, maybe low 20s psi on e40. the reason i’m leaning towards 19t is because my priority is top end power, i don’t care too much for low end spool as that is what damages the motor anyways. i’d imagine 17t being smaller means it won’t hold as much hp and tq above 5.5-6k. any help you can provide would greatly help bro thanks!
On stock DI, dont think you will see much of a difference at all.
@@ZeroTo60Tube oh okay thanks for your insight. do you care to comment at all on v3 vs v4 19t? besides the manifold being different i can’t seem to find anything solid. thanks
@@6mtcruiser I think v4 should work better. However These OG ones have been so good.
@@ZeroTo60Tube do you recommend me sending them out to get balanced? or just throw them in out the box
Good to see you back man. I’m actually up your way at the moment. Whatnare your thoughts on 19T over 17T? Would you go 11 blade or 6x6?
11 blade 19t should be the winner. I just dont know anyone that has had as good of a run with them vs 17t 6 blade. Mind you, i think if you keep power levels sensible you should be ok with either.
I literally just got my 335i E93 back up and running
JB4 is JUNK all of the cars I build are MHD + Motive, I haven't used AIC but I've heard good things. Dont cheap out it'll make your life 100x easier in the future.
P.S In my Opintion JB4 is a fosil
Surely he should wait a few weeks for the Nexsys DI delete kit?
My 17T's have over 20k miles 0 wastegate rattle,0 smoke,0 issues,FAPOMOTO FTW !
Where is some more N54 8HP content???? Im desperate to try convering my 2008 135i M/T to 8HP
Jb4 gives electric nightmare mhd with motive is the best no issue with it
MHD and a reflex + for sure.
Subframe out then just lower the motor a bit
N54 content 😮🥺❤️
reflex is the obvious and best choice.
Everyone I know with the Reflex+ (which includes me) has had issues with it. Good when it works though.
@@BMW1M what issues you having with it? Mines sitting in a box waiting for warmer weather to install
@@patrickreddy5332 Mine randomly decides to stop talking over canbus. It will come good without intervention after several minutes, but it's a proper PITA. I have a friend who spent literally 9 months trying to get it to work. In the end it was a faulty unit. I have heard reports of bad wiring harnesses as well - in fact mine required repair from new.
I am yet to hear of a single, hassle-free Reflex+ installation.
When it works, it gets the job done, but TBH I'm keen to move on from it.
Reflex only my guy reflex only
Something to do with sorghum and or corn would be my go to 😉🤔
By right or buy twice. Reflex.
REFLEX! N54 content FTW!
How much horse power does it have in mhd stage 2 + ots map
We dyno'd an FBO 135i with MHD 2+ V5 e40 and it made 380whp.
YOOOOOOO LETS GO!!! WE’RE BACK! 🎉🎉🎉
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
what did you do to those turbos to makes them last 10K?!
They are in a mates car now. They have done about 40,000klms.
Bro no don’t do the stage 2 tune with upgraded twins that’s how you make the ringlands go Bluetooth
Reflex for the win!
Hybrid turbos . Anything over low 20psi . You starting trouble . Hes a goat 🐐 for sure
You seem like a BMW guy…..do you know anyone locally who can unlock the 2020 onwards G30 ECM’s?
Unfortunately i havent played with anything that new just yet
Wedge Performance Tune
Nothing but!
MHD+ is the way to go
Even with a base map this thing will fly.
Im at around 500 FWHP with 17T (UK dyno numbers!) But i still have more tuning left.
Will be adding CP meth soon too. Hoping for a safe 550 at the fly
I made 562whp with pump gas and cp meth at 25psi, 100-200km 6.29, nice cheap solution
500 crank sounds about right - I made 444whp on 17T's and DI only... for about 1,000km. And then about 4,000km, And then more more stinking China turbos for me 😅
Meth should get you to at least 600 crank.
what timeing did the 22psi pull have? i have 19ts and my e30 map is at 22 psi but idk my timing. i do a 8.02 60-130 im just trying to get a ballpark of my whp i just say 500 but idk any guesses?
also i am thinking about doing reflex with flex fuel but i heard from Ali from swap depot/ vehicle virals that reflex has issues not being able to read flex fuel sensors and the solution hasnt been figured out yet. How widespread is this problem?
I’m not aware of that problem. Mine worked with the ethanol sensor.
The 22psi 580whp pull was 11-13deg across the rpm range. From memory.
I have been running the reflex+ since it came out without any issues with the flexfuel..the only minor thing I notice is the eth content increase when WOT but only by a point or 2…
8s 60-130 sounds more like low-mid 400whp. I'd expect a 500whp car to be in the 7's
@@BMW1M😂
subframe out for sure, their a pain in the ass even then lol
Changing turbo with out dropping subframe would be a tight squeeze.
yeah, i can't see it being a thing, my hands look 10 years older doing it with the subframe out of the way
Faster just to pull the engine if you have the space. Just way less fiddly that way.
I gotta say after going ST; not having to deal with the bullshittery of wastegate rattles is something I could not live past now.
Hahah fair! What single setup are you running?
Go Haltech with the PI!!
Finally N54 work, bbbbbbbbessssssttttttt😅
Do you still have the friend with the f87?
I know a few people with f87s…. However all the ones I ever featured on the channel have changed hands
Reflex baby
#teamN54 🔥🔥🔥
JUST LIKE THE OLD DAYS
Good to see you back!
Best of luck with the N54. The final straw for me was a leaking injector taking out a cylinder.
Ohhhh man! That’s such a shame.
That's totally my fear! I was going to mod my car but I greatly fear dumping all this money into it only to have the engine take a poop and I'm out big bucks to get it all back again.
I think if the N54 dies, I'll just go 2jz or LS swap it. I fear the N54, built or not, is just too fussy and unreliable.
B58 would be great but all those newer cars are so expensive and I'd be starting all over on the modding journey after dropping all that dough to get the car in the first place. Instead, I could put that money towards an engine swap and be done with it. Cheaper than a newer car and it'd be modded the way I want too.
So what did you move to after the N54? Did you just get out of fun cars altogether or get something else?
@@topfueljunkie100 I really enjoyed my N54 and it served me well for about 7 years without a car payment, but those injectors really did it to me when it came to a decision about building the block.
I have never owned a v8 before but decided to get into a gen 3 coyote. I am really enjoying the newer car and will boost it whenever I get bored of being naturally aspirated.
@@boostjunkie27 It really is crazy about the price of the injectors these days isn't it,? A new engine is probably $3.5k I'm guessing and then the injectors themselves cost nearly as much at around $3k for a set of 6 last I checked...... That's $500 per injector! That's just crazy.
I thought about doing the same as you and getting a newer Mustang, especially since I used to own a couple Cobras back in the day so there's a bit of nostalgia involved. I still miss those cars but they don't hold a candle to the E90/E92 in handling, braking, interior amenities, and overall driving experience. The sound those V8s made were sure better though!
The new Mustangs are undoubtedly better than the 96-98 model year ones I had, I just feel for me that I'd lose some of the uniqueness of owning a car like my E92 and instead blend in with everyone else who seems to own a Mustang these days. I also fear the interior will leave me wanting as compared to the nice interiors common on these German cars.
I've considered getting an E9x M3 to get that V8 sound, NA fun, and still be able to keep the same interior and exterior I have now while getting a decent upgrade in handling. But after owning a torquey twin turbo engine like the N54, I bet that high-revving S65 engine would leave me feeling underpowered. You can always supercharge it but then you're right back into an expensive engine to upkeep which, if it goes south, is expensive to repair and probably not super reliable since you are putting greater load on it than it was designed to handle. If you want to build that engine to handle the power, better have some deep pockets!
So I'm still lost on what I want to do. I'll probably just put some quality hybrids on this and keep it around the 500whp level so it will retain some reliability and if that becomes boring I'll have to engine swap it.
Main problem is, the desire for power seems never ending which only makes the expense worse! It's a vicious cycle! Sigh......the things we do for our love of the hobby.....
Remember when someone got oil to come out the exhaust just driving around normally >.>
Reflex