N54 Single Turbo Misfires BSD Fault: But what is causing it?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- N54 Single Turbo Misfires BSD Fault: But what is causing it?
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Andrew you've made a little mistake in your diagnosis.
You didn't isolate it from the BSD network, you've just pulled the power feed to it.
The IBS has another 12v line that is 15WUP, it's at 12v when the car is woken up, 0v with ignition off or fully asleep.
Since you didn't remove 15WUP or BSD from the IBS in the test it could be that the IBS is still internally shorting 15WUP to BSD due to water damage (known issue).
When the car is awake 15WUP goes to 12v, IBS shorts BSD to 12v, BSD nodes wake up but since BSD is essentially shorted to B+ they can't communicate. Because BSD is active but no com the waterpump runs at 100% as an emergency strategy.
That explains why the water pump often starts running when you unlock or open (=waking) the car.
It also explains why the car might randomly prime the fuel pump and drains the battery.
When the IBS was still connected to it's power feed it might've also shorted 15WUP to B+ which causes the car to wake up unintentionally in this case.
Append your theory of the alternator not properly working because of that BSD fault and you might have found the cause to multiple problems.
Talk to Mark, i've explained it all in detail to him ;)
If it's a metal housing IBS follow the small black cable that comes off it. It goes to a small blue plug with 2 pins in it, being BSD and 15WUP.
Disconnect that plug.
If it's a plastic housing IBS disconnect the black plug connected to the side of the IBS, same 2 wires come out of that plug too.
Test it out again ;)
Wow your a jedi at this !
You look so done with this issue, cant blame you. Will be here for the end of the puzzle
Definitely the waterpump I had the same issue's.. the freaky noises. then de priming of it. And then at the final stage before dying the fan start kicking in at full speed. it makes too much noise to. Keep the amazing video's coming!
The GROUND on the FIRE WALL in the engine bay... that priming and missfire is often due to it, main ground for the dme
So the more of the video I have seen... its for sure that ground, I had the same exact same issue.... found that ground... was loose... tightened it down.... no more issue... pretty surprised myself that it was that easy to fix.
@@1VETaLEK2 I had issues with that, it looked fine but thought I’d change it anyways and sorted my problem! The cable looked fine!
@@br4d101 that same ground strap?
@@1VETaLEK2 the one on the right as u look down on the engine bay, car was slow to start and eventually stopped turning over, changed the ground strap and all was sorted! Looked fine when I removed it aswell, just a little green which is oxidisation!
I had the same issue with my water pump running like yours. It eventually killed my battery overnight and I didn't know. I then in turn jump started my car (incorrectly). In turn my car stopped charging. Resulted in a Christmas tree of lights on the dash. MHD showed the IBS fault your having as well.
The fix:
Bought a used IBS on ebay module and replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator. Both cheap and easy fixes.
I did both of these as well when having similar issues. Like the easiest fixes you can do on a bmw but i wasnt lucky enough to have that be my fix. Im guessing its my new aftermarket water pump though. Good info though and hopefully this is all ohh rly needs
Had similar issues although I also got a christmas tree on the dash. It was my alternator/voltage regulator. Replaced it with a new regulator and low mileage alternator, and a new battery have been fine since then. Check your grounds and then move onto the voltage regulator IMO
hey boys! i just wanted to add that i was watching a video the other day where you were talking about MHD and going from buying like say the flasher and BEF to Super license and if there was a way to get a discount. I contacted MHD directly and what they did for me was informed me that i should buy the super license and then to contac them again and they will go ahead and refund the Full flasher upgrade and BEF upgrade, so paid them the $395 and got the $160 i already spent with them back. Sounds like a great deal and i advise everyone who is in this situation do the same thing and just contact them! have fun lads!
As you've probably found out by now, BSD is a data bus. Comms for water pump, alternator, IBS and DME all on the same line. Can you check the oil level with iDrive or whatever system you are using? Stupid question I know, but could give you the answer.
Couple of simple questions that could give you some ideas. When the battery was replaced, did someone code it to the car correctly? If not, that will cause IBS issues as well as a lot of other electrical gremlins. Should be a simple check in ISTA-D, and easy to fix in ISTA-P or MHD possibly. If the alternator is not charging correctly at high load, it could cause lower than needed voltage to either coils, DME or both, causing the intermittent misfire under huge load. This would be compounded by changing the rears to the MT's and boosting the grip, whereas as you said, before it could just blaze the rears no worries and these issues weren't there.
Now the problem has jumped cylinders, I would also be looking at all your earth connections, starting at the coils. Pull each and every one, clean and retighten. May be the simplest little one that's worked loose or gotten dirty over the years that's causing the random issues, it would make more sense once the car is fully loaded up and the motor stresses everything a bit more by moving that extra few mm.
A not so common fault for these that have suffered from a bit of water getting into places it shouldn't, is failures of the DME. I believe most common ones to fail are the MSD80, not so much the MSD81. Might be worth having a look, swap to another one if you can and see if the same error codes come up? However, I'd say if you can't check oil levels through your iDrive, your DME has been damaged - that would be the worst case though.
Andrew, I'm more than happy to call at any stage and give you some ideas and suggestions if you want.
andrew replace your regulator or alternator if you have a spare i found a thread with the same problem as yours the voltage was good but the amps under load were not correct so it throws a bsd fault. with the car running at temperature high beam on and rad fan running alternator should be 14.4v and be over 30amps closer to 40 amps 30 amps or less no good hope this helps cheers glenn
Guys one of my motors early on had a missfire on cyl 6 and the car was not even over 350 whp. Missfire on high high rpms only. Turns out had a bent valve and half the compression. But also check maybe one of your injectors on cyl 6 the port injection and the main di one. I heard many stores of even new port injection that some guy bought had a bad one. I had many injector missfires before as well and had 2 index 12 injectors leaking and failing.
I feel your pain. The water is just doing what it's told. Something is triggering it so it must be a faulty sensor for pressure or temperature etc. Don't change the pump yet. And I still don't believe it will fix the misfire. Have you changed the coil and leads on number 6?
I had a 1M that had the same water pump issue where it would randomly come on like that. I replaced the water pump and thermostat and the problem was completely gone. Hope that helps.
Did you code the new battery if it was different amp hours or AGM / regular when you registered it?
Have you checked that the blue IBS plug is ok? I managed to damage mine when I changed the battery and it was giving intermittent faults.
I think you are correct. With these crazy HP numbers and super high timing a little electrical problem can cause a misfire if proper voltage is not being supplied. Bad coolant or oil temp switch? The fan and electrical water pump are designed to work with the vehicle off to circulate coolant to cool the turbos. So if one of those sensors are shorting out that could cause bad signal. Your EKPS can be rewritten for the Brazil X1 E100 tune. I saw the compression test on ISTA for my M57 I'll take a look and send you some pics on IG (sent via DM) Check the wiring wiring diagram for all the components on that BSD circuit. If a component has an internal short it can bleed into the CAN Bus lines and cause crazy faults, you're on the right track with the unplug it test, if you have an oscilloscope to backprobe into the data line when you unplug the problem you will see the signal change on the scope.
Try a new battery vehicular DIY had a miss fire and he found that the battery was going flat at the upper rpms. Good luck
Sounds like a classic short circuit somewhere along the line hence it being intermittent. Given the hp you have car would be running quite hot check lines they may have become loose and touching hot surface and then causing short . Run a continuity test
You said it was raining lots right?
I had those same issues. My battery compartment was loaded with water and overtime it had eaten away at the connector below the battery. That connector I believe connects straight to your water pump, alternator, oil level sensor. Shine the light down passed the battery to check
There is a similar misfire issue that happens with the Holden LFX V6 that is caused by the high pressure fuel sensor going bad. Very hard to diagnose, but might be worth checking out as the replacement sensor isn't too expensive. They are also notorious for going out even at low miles and do not throw an error code.
Do you ever wonder why that bloke sold that car to you ? Maybe it was giving him headaches ? Possibly more issues than you realise but I hope not, i actually own a e90 and a og subscriber and I wish you guys best of luck with all builds and future projects 👍🙏
They have like 5 Bmws im sure they knew what the possibilities were
My water pump would act funny when the intelligent battery sensor or coils were fucking up. Apparently a fault in any component in the can bus loop throws off readings from other components. Car was running hot and I changed the positive battery cable, then ran at normal temp.
If you guys are still having issues with Ohh Rly’s water pump randomly turning on then definitely try swapping the kbm box from another car like the vargas turbo car. I had similar issues with my car which resolved with a used kbm module i bought on eBay for $25 shipped. The box should be behind your glovebox fuses so you need to take like 4-6 screws off and replace the box. Literally takes less than 30 minutes
I had a similar issue in the past with my water pump getting weird and messing with my electronics. It turned out to be a current issue and it was caused by...... water that had gotten in to my battery well. It was fixed by taking the battery unit out and cleaning the corrosion of the battery cables where it bolts to the internal harness. Also could try using a different battery module unit from one of your other cars.
I think he had this issue on one of the other cars?
I would look into this as well...I had massive corrosion on one of the two wires going though the chassis at the bottom of the battery box/tray. On my 320d it resulted in cranking but not firing and some noise probably from fuel pump(?). Also ABS fault on the dash...go figure!
I had an issue with my e90 328i with odometer resetting and the clock. Sometimes fan would get stuck on. Was told it was ibs sensor, and battery not holding the correct CCA. 2 Weeks later overheated. Replaced the waterpump and thermostat. 900 miles so far no funny electrical issues. No clock reset. Or odometer reset. If you rule the bsd line out and ibs sensor. I can guarantee its the water pump failing internally
The water pump issue you have reminds me of what my fuel pump does when it's unlocked and sitting. It makes me think ibs related. Or a wiring issue.. very interesting though
had similar issue misfires the injector seal need to be changed you have use a tool when changing. all my misfire are gone i use s55 coil, i see your using b58 coil now should be good. And bad ground strap also i redid all my ground and add a few. i ran a 10.1 in my 535i so i understand the struggle guys.
Can you figure out wich cylinder is misfiring? If it's one specific cylinder you can try to change out coil, spark plug and injector one by one with an other working cylinder and see if the fault moves to another cylinder. Logging fuel trims and injector duty cycle might also help to diagnose the dipping fuel pressure.
Great videos brother watch all your viids..what version of insta are you using?
The only difference between your runs with no miss and roll racing with miss is you had a higher electrical draw due to it being dark and you had your headlights on , just a thought
Could have amplified the issue thats for sure.
I had the E-Box fan code back in the day I had shorted “something” that ended up hurting the DME. Because if that the computer decided the E-Box fan needed to run because of a semi- cooked DME. Once I replaced the DME life was better.
oi mate them N54's never run good for more than a week but hey "MO POWA BABY"
Your alternator could be dying. Check the voltage. Check if the battery is being overcharged.also check the wires for the water for damage. The outside temperature sensor is tied in as well make sure that is good. If the car read its too hot/cold it does weird things. Swap the power distribution box that can have internal faults as well.
All points to a bad connection / faulty component somewhere. I would expect the fan and pump to run hard in failsafe mode to protect the engine so it does seem like the feedback or comms is lost with those devices. Perhaps the misfire is intentional too..
Replace ur water pump. I believe it'll be that. Very common issue. Guaranteed.
That's what i am thinking.
If the water pump is running up to max speed the its working so i wouldn't pull it off just yet. Do a bleed procedure and monitor the rpm via inpa, as well as visually check the expansion tank to verify its moving a decent amount of water.
Maybe it’s on the way out???
Mine was doing the same thing as it was failing, I swapped in a new one and all has been fine since.
I had a similar issue with the water pump continuously running. It happened to be a faulty water pump. Changed it with a new one and faults went away. Took apart the old pump and the electrical circuit showed heavy signs of water damage.
Exact same problem on my 335i. Water pump fixed issue
If you can see live sensor values, worth looking at them with the car 'off', and seeing if any are giving unrealistic readings. I had a yaw sensor fail in my e61, told the ecu the car was constantly (but slowly) rotating (even key out and locked), stopped the car going to sleep and other minor quirks, might be a similar thing / help narrow it down?
You should check out the EOS BMP4 fuel controller. Sounds like the car could use it with the upgraded LPFP.
Ive been wondering about that product. Have you used it and did it actually get rid of that high draw emp error for you? It’s kind of pricey but if it fixes things im sure it would be worth the $800 or whatever it costs
@@milehighboost5521 I have not used it yet, but i did purchase one as part of the build on by n54 335. Should be getting installed by the end of April. It is a steep price, i think i paid $699 with the factory connector. We'll see what happens.
I went with a radium in tank fuel surge with twin 525 hellcats wired to my jb4 port injector controller and two relays. No need to upgrade fuel pump controller. Stock/walbro (e85 ratedl fills surge tank. Surge to factory/pi rails done.
@@g.wes.3906 I just have a spool performance stage 2 bucketless fuel pump setup and don't want to fry my stock EKP with the higher electrical draw. This will also give me the option to add a second pump if it's ever needed, which with my power goals really shouldn't be.
@@BMWHOBO i went through so many options over the years. But going forward any cars i build that needs fuel upgrades i will be doing a surge system. Either intank(very clean) or a surge tank somewhere(trunk/engine compartment). it solved so many headaches and keeps most of the factory things in place. Factory ecu triggers factory pump/relay for low pressure pump and some kinda trigger for the second or third pump if needed
Your DSC/TC is flashing because it's not fully disabled, not saying it's the cause of your issue, but DSC has to be fully disabled to get good data logs, my N54 started misfiring on wot right after I installed a custom tune, I got a new custom tune map and that solved my problem.
Intermittent problems suck to solve …but I feel I may have a solution to your problem … I have N52K engine I have been working on with BSD problems, misfires, engine stalling … Studying the wiring charts I realized that the Electric Coolant Pump has a small external wire that connects to the base of the Engine with a small bolt for its GROUND … upon further investigation I saw that the Camshaft Sensors and Vanos Solenoids are wired to this same ground as the Engine Coolant Pump .... so while checking continuity between the Electric Coolant Pump ground wire and Intake Camshaft Sensor ground I notice a break in the continuity!!! Not so much the wires extending out of the connector but the wires within the CONNECTOR itself (in my case Intake Camshaft Sensor CONNECTOR) was compromised.... in order to get it to work consistently I had to squeeze the CONNECTOR in my hand to get a consistent reading otherwise reading would jump all over the place...For safety I replaced both Camshaft Sensor CONNECTORS (Intake and Exhaust)...So in this case SENSORS were good but CONNECTOR to one of the sensors was bad)....Now with the BSD bus problem - it talks by shifting voltage from 8.5v to 0v to 8.5v within a time span … the faster or slow it does this is a language in can speak between Modules (Master & slave)…anything above 9 volts triggers a fault in the BSD system...On my system N52K - three systems use this line Alternator, Electric Coolant Pump, and Oil Level Sensor (there is a fourth IBS but mine is not equipped with this!) ... As long as one of these remains on the system you can test the integrity of the BSD line... First I disconnected and measured the BSD wire to the alternator -- above 9 volts (not good) .... then disconnected the Electric Coolant Pump connector and remeasured my disconnected Alternator BSD wire -- dropped to 8.5 volts (yeah problem solved) ... Needs further confirmation but looks like the Electric Coolant Pump has to be replaced at 140 000km ... Good luck with the hunt!!!
Hey mate really appreciate the in depth reply. You were in the money. The water pump was the ossue
Hi, was the error localized? I currently have the same problem
I think you have to ask yourself how old that water pump really is and is it oem. I feel like an idiot but i believe I’m having similar intermittent issues with my car because last year i decided to cheap out on a maxpeedingrods water pump from amazon. I recently replaced my ibs and it did seem to help my long cranking issue but did have my fan going 100% on a cold engine and cold start. I had already replaced the alternator regulator so my old guess for myself at this point is the water pump. I still have my old one laying around but not sure i want to do all that work to switch it out unless its a brand new oem one.
Welcome to SpoolStreet. Not unheard of for battery issues to cause misfires at high load. Do you have an AGM battery? Try borrow the IBS modules from the parts car
What is throwing me with the ibs. The water pump still ran on its own when the ibs was disconnected. I do have the parts car ibs tho.
@@ZeroTo60Tube What about the earthing connections around the battery housing? Sometimes they can get corroded, that's also where the waterpump grounds so would make sense.
It’s 1000% the water pump. Had the same issues, it runs on the BSD Line together with the Alternator, Oil Level Sensor and Intelligent Battery Sensor (Strap on the battery in the boot).
Quick suggestion to possible solution to fuel pump drawing the extra power under load what about a couple of lithium packs to supply both the waterproof with extra current and also would help with the Waldron fuel pump drawing the extra current that's upsetting the bsd
Hey,
I would try Replacing the IBS it just the negative terminal you need to change with the 2 wiring connectors. You may have it on your parts car? strange fault with this could have some melted wiring some where? or the ECU it faulty. number or things that could cause this the thermostat? Or even the water pump, I think it is related to miss fires, When my water pump and thermostat went I had misfires. But not like yours. good luck.
Did you see my comment yesterday about the recall on these cars for something to do with a cable for the intelligent battery? This may be what is causing these issues.
I did, yes, but this car has had all its recalls. So it should be ok.
I think the water pump, oil level sensor is on the same bus as the battery sensor... my oil sensor (level) was not working and I pulled the battery sensor and the oil level kicked into life!! If that makes any sense.
@ Zero To Sixty I had the same issue before. Water pump would also run continually. If the car was locked the pump wouldn't run. When u unlock the car it runs, non stop. Checked for codes and also got that 'serial bus'. It used to run the battery down if the car was not running. When I used to get the code I also found that the oil level sensor would not work at all. Found out later that the water p/p, alternator and oil lvl sensor was running off the same line. So I previously had to unplug the water pump and then the oil lvl sensor worked again. Fan also used to run because the water pump wasn't doing its job properly. After changing the water pump all those issues went away.
I had a similar issue with my 335AS the thing that was bad was my smart battery thing that goes on top of the battery that red piece at the distributor is what it’s called I believe that ended up blowing two of my fans my temp sensor my water pump went and I ended up switching that distributor got a new water pump thermostat temp sensor in a new fan and everything went back to normal hope you figure this out I can feel your frustration
after new sansor make registration battery also don't forget its make drama also
if ibs not work oil level also not show
Seen a video you needa check the battery leads through wheel well for corrosion, there is i believe posts that go through. Moisture in trunk leads to this. Worth looking into i think
Have you thought about replacing the water pump? Mine started acting wierd like that before it went completely out
I second that. If its not the bsd or ibs sensor its for sure the water pump
Sounds like a current draw problem. Probably one of the components that use a lot of current is going bad. The water pump or the LPFP come to mind. I would start with swapping the water pump and see what happens. If the problem persists, maybe you can run a separate battery for the LPFP and maybe measure the current draw separately.
Hi back to basics and check all connections power and earths
Also as a mechanic generally when you have a hard fault code after you disconnect the power supplies it generally needs two to three cycles of ignition or start ups to present the codes again
Just had mine do the same with the water pump a couple months ago everytime I unlocked the car it would prime was also not letting me check oil level as its all connected aswell as the alternator replaced the waterpump and it was all fixed this was determined by process of elimination unplugged the water pump and the fault went away
A bsd fault could be caused by a faulty DME? Your DME might needs replacing.
I have same problem last week I change ibs if don't want change make bypass remove small 2 pin wires
If u put a 5 buck volt meter into the cig plug at least u can see whats going on day to day with voltage.
Mine went nuts without battery registration and different battery chemistry AGM/ PB freaked out
I had a problem every time I open the door it goes on ...replace water pump ..but do a little test check the oil see if you can if you can't again change the water pump just the fact when you open the door it goes its dead.
Have you done a battery check? To see how much life it really has. And is it the correct or higher output? And perhaps leave it on a battery maintenance tender between uses and see if that effects the issue. These are cost-less checks. No BMW I’ve ever had, including my bikes, like being left and low batteries have caused all sorts of stupid problems.
Its brand new.
Still doesn’t mean it’s holding enough charge, they can occasionally turn up new, be fully charged and show well below 13v. At which point it gets sent back.
disconnect the alternator, oil sensor. if the water pump stops you should know which unit is bring down the BSD line if the pump still keeps running it should be the waterpump
Voltage regulator could be a big one.... and you can easily remove the IBS and leave it out.... car doesnt need it!! or check the ground indeed to the DME
Did this get figured out. I’m having misfire on 6&8. I’ve tried everything. It won’t go away.
This was a voltage issue. Caused by the waterpump messing with the BSD bus. However this car was very high power. So 12.8v instead of 14v was an issue.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the reply.
Also, I dont think it's down on compression. If it was, I believe it would run like shit constantly and you'd probably never get a good pull out of it
Hey man I’m having a very similar issue . Single turbo 535xi e60. Water pump runs when I unlock the car for about 10 seconds shuts off then comes on every couple minutes whether Im near the car or not. I have 2e7c- BSD bus communication fault just wondering did you simply just Replace the water pump ? No reset procedure or anything you did extra whatso ever just plug and play ? My water pump is only 2 years old I’m skeptical it is already faulty but could be. Mind you this code appeared after I did. A motor swap in my e60. I transferred all my accessories over as they were mostly new. Would really appreciate some input thanks mane.
All you can really do, it double and tripple check all the connections on every thing on that bus. The fault can be cause by anything on the bus, but its normally water pump. I did just change the pump and it was fine. However it wont always be the pump. The battery sensor can be the cause. That said, its probabaly your pump
Did the new battery get coded to the car?
That is some sorte of ground issue, to much resistence, you should check the cable of the bsd bus, plus all the ground/power of all components of the bsd, some of them will have to much resistence. I will bet that is ground issue or alternator issue.
Let me know if you still having the issue. It could be water pump or ibs. I have struggled with waterpump code issues for 1 year and some months just had it sorted out FIXED after I changed my Alternator funny to say the Genuine Alternator Regulator output a specific 180 and should not fall below. So in other words if you change the water pump and it still comes back it's definitely your Alternator🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲 #teamn54
Could be not getting proper voltage to the injectors or coils when the bsd fault comes up as well.
That wouldn't explain for the waterpump always staying on tho. Im thinking its the bsd or the waterpump be faulty
@@dylans4562 yes I know but it can be related to missfires if the pump is going out and drawing to much voltage or the alternator is not producing enough to power everything properly
Check the coolant temp sensor a that could cause your water pump issue
Might be abit stupid but u coded the battery to the car correctly? Incorrect amperage n coding can cause all sorts of errors, would also check all the ground cables as the car does sit about a lot and things do corrode!
What did the log say the voltage was when it was misfiring?????
Misfires for bank 2 or 1 is very simple it’s most of the time just the injector if you swapped coils to different cylinder and code didn’t move .if you don’t have your cowl on your car the water drains into cylinder 6 harness connection or oil from crankcase breather valve to the pcv . Lastly if all those check out oxygen sensor will and can cause random misfire need to read fuel trims at idle you want them to be between -10 and positive 10 at idle for both banks anything over 20 will throw mixture codes.
Protools does the voltage fix for the ekp with coding .. if you hear your water pump priming att all times (humming)before or with key in but the engine is off you will get a bsd fault change that with you thermostat and bsd will clear after you clear them with inpa
hahaha compression replacement device....love it
I had to replace the wiring harness to clear my BSD fault.
check grounds alternator volts regulator battery ibs power relay dme. E92 M3 with BSD turned out to be volts regulator
Spoolstreet sorry water pump ibs altenator and dme all bsd. Unplug each and retest. Or pcv heater element.
Where can I download inpa?
Checked for water in the battery compartment like the e92 ?
Its had water in it at some point, but when we did the battery swap you could see it has been fitted with drain holes.
I’m convinced it’s an earthing issue. Follow every earth inc all high current load earths ie fuel pumps, headlights, fans etc
I DID the new battery and MHD register and my water pump issue was fixed. go figure that lol
9:48 Car is on charge and no problems?
I changed my oil level sensor not OEM workt fine but after changing it my water pump randomly starts even the car is off + my mirrors starts folding randomly for 2 days then i decided to change old oem oil level sensor and problem solved
535i n54 2008
Maybe somethings worng with that fuel pump when u changed started the water pump
Upgrade the fuel pump module! Better safe than sorry
That car is possessed like it has a msd80 lol.
Not directly related to THIS video but touches on several since your flooding stopped.
You minority of folks who live in arid climates need to pay some attention to regular maintenance that the rest of us do at least twice and possibly as many as 4 times per year...
All of the gutter drains need to be cleaned out.
If your vehicles get damp inside after heavy rain then at least one of the many water channels and drain lines are clogged. This doesn't ONLY mean damp carpet, it also OFTEN causes electrical gremlins to begin multiplying.
Anyone who lives in a climate with regular rainfall, and any kind of fallout (leaves, needles, dust, tree sap) knows exactly what I am saying.
My daughter does not have a BMW (much to my chagrin) but her Infiniti had a clogged line and she called me in a panic several months ago because her headliner and carpet were soaked on one side... I popped over checked, and sure enough it had a plugged up sunroof drain... We disconnected it, reamed out the tube, and it has been dry for almost a year despite being parked outdoors.
I had a similar issue in an old 318 with no sunroof... The headliner was sagging as a result... I have noticed that the headliner of more than one of your vehicles is droopy... I don't believe that it is from heat... I think you are getting water ingress because you haven't known to look after the drains...
Hey James, Youre right about the drains clogging but the headliner sagging is from the heat. Its so common here that it used to be my job at a car yard, replacing the sagging headliners. The foam on the back of the material dries and turns to dust and then it sags
Stick the all aluminium water pump you've got on it 👍
The water pump is dying man.. mine starts as soon as u unlock the doors via the fob.. automatically runs then goes off... same as when I switch off the engine... runs for a while then goes off..... diagnosis from my mech... start saving for a new pump 🤦🏽♂️ ....N54s
Maybe a daft question, but does this car have keyless entry? I had two door handle failures in 2 months which caused battery failure because the car was always priming itself thinking a door handle was being touched, when it wasn’t.
it does yes
Interesting. In which case, I would disable it. Mine was an F generation car and they still hadn’t got it right! We (the technicians and I) think rain water and the key being within transmission distance was enough to cause the failures because it was mistaking water drops for finger tips.
@@luminiferousaether6151 I have keyless on my e93 and the car locks itself whenever I wash it for the same reason
put in bmw e90 bsd fault then go to 100% solved 00278d bsd alternator missing it is an interesting read
In my case it was a bad ground strap.
Trying to catch up a little with the vids, been really busy recently
You look a bit fed up with the issue, can't blame you, what a pain. Hopefully some of the comments have been helpful in finding a solution 🤞🏻
Its been an interesting ride thats for sure haha and yes there is always something helpful and useful in the comments, it always good to see!
1:20 think you need a shave mate lol.
Water pump is shitting itself
Its scared of roll racing 😆 spits the dummy as soon as you get there
Easiest thing to do is swap a used pump in and see if it does the same thing. Pain in the ass, but whadyagonnado?
Pro Tip from an old geezer. You're going to wish you had all that time and money back that you wasted on car foolishness in your 20's.
Please check diagnose dan TH-cam channel. You will find there how to check buss line.
Faulty DME/ECU
Replace the water pump
Belibers
I hope it’s not a shorting issue caused by rain that might have come in via the open roof?