Always drill a tiny hole at the end of a crack to help prevent it from running even after a repair. This is the same whether you are welding, soldering or using something like epoxy or flex seal. A crack will run after it is repaired and if you don't believe it, research it. This goes for a crack in aluminum or steel or plastic and probably other materials.
Also I don’t have a boat trailer so I place it on a couple of saw horses with a couple of atv ramps to minimize rocking. And a couple of 2x4’s strategically placed to reinforce the saw horses so the weight of the water didn’t collapse them.
This video is great. I just got me a 10' Jon boat and I'm getting ready to search for leaks. What's the best thing to use if you don't have a trailer? I doubt saw horses will hold a boat full of water. Lol
I chose this method, which is basically a form of brazing, because I didn't have a tig welder. Given the choice, I would have preferred to tig that crack. This method used cheap rods and a propane torch, and is something anyone can do. I like to show people that they don't need to be afraid of taking on repair projects as long as they take their time.
I just put a small cut in my sportspal a little more than a 1/4 of an inch at or above the water line of the bow. Should a person do both sides inside and out? Thanks I like your idea I figured JB weld had an aluminum one but this is better Marine did not know !
If definitely wouldn't hurt to do both sides. In this case, since it was a rivet, I could only access it from the outside. I can report the leak fully sealed.
@@TheWeekendAngler Thanks for your reply and the report.. I will buy some for sure! Happy Canoeing to you and enjoy the summer :-) Gotta put mine in real soon to see if there are leaks ha ha
I’ve got a John boat but it’s full of bb holes like like the little pellet sizes all through the bottom of the boat will this be a sufficient enough way to repair such damage?
I have a deck with a seat and trolling motor mounted on my Jon boat. It there a way to fix it without flipping it upside down? I would rather not have to take all of that off just to patch a leak.
If you're careful with the epoxy, you could probably apply it in thin enough coats that it would not drip off. You'd have to keep a good eye on it, but I think it would work. Be sure and sand well and wipe it down between coats to promote adhesion.
My dad bought a boat used one time. He sold most of his rifles and shotguns because he didn't hunt anymore. The boat looked fine and sat in a covered shed for a few years. They took it out and it traveled kinda low in the water. He parked it in the garage overnight because it was late. The next morning the entire garage floor was covered in water and there were holes all over the boat. Mice had been living and peeing inside the boat for years and made the bottom real thin therefore holes everywhere. We spent all the time that I could come over putting a new front end on the boat then he sandblasted the rear and immediately big huge holes appeared. We ended up taking the boat to the scrapyard halfway fixed and he talked to my mom and ended up buying a new boat and reusing the trailer and motor. The trailer finally died and he boat a new one a few years back and the motor had no hydraulic lift so he traded it in for a used motor so basically the boat is new except for the motor. He had to tear that apart and replace a bunch of parts on that too. So in the long run he could have bought a new boat for less.
There is a hint of truth in this, but it needs explained. Don't use a brush that you've also used on steel to brush aluminum. It will deposit bits of steel into the aluminum and cause problems. Buy a stainless steel brush, label it and use it ONLY for aluminum and you'll NEVER have that problem.
I use mapp gas and aluminum brazing rods Im surprised you didn't?? Epoxy is an effective band aid but I use the rods! Just make sure its prepped and cleaned never had 1 problem and I take my Jon on 200 ft lakes weekly in the summer !
Good info Josh going to have to try that!
Another great video Josh!
Great information and instructions Josh. I’ve got a 16 ft. Flat bottom that I’m working on. I’ll have to get me some of that JB Weld.
It's some really nice stuff and it bonds tightly to aluminum, which many of them don't.
Great Video! Thanks
Always drill a tiny hole at the end of a crack to help prevent it from running even after a repair. This is the same whether you are welding, soldering or using something like epoxy or flex seal. A crack will run after it is repaired and if you don't believe it, research it. This goes for a crack in aluminum or steel or plastic and probably other materials.
Just did this this morning. I’ll find out if the jb weld holds up tomorrow. Great video. Thanks
Also I don’t have a boat trailer so I place it on a couple of saw horses with a couple of atv ramps to minimize rocking. And a couple of 2x4’s strategically placed to reinforce the saw horses so the weight of the water didn’t collapse them.
How did it work out?
Thank you for this video!!!
This video is great. I just got me a 10' Jon boat and I'm getting ready to search for leaks.
What's the best thing to use if you don't have a trailer? I doubt saw horses will hold a boat full of water. Lol
I'd probably put it on saw horses and put just enough water to cover the bottom. You can then lift the boat on either end and hopefully find the leak.
@@TheWeekendAngler I'll just build some stronger saw horses. Thanks.
@@straightwhitemale5753 yeah, I'm not sure of a better way on that one.
I'm wondering why you chose to use the weld instead if brazing it? Is it better for small cracks
I chose this method, which is basically a form of brazing, because I didn't have a tig welder.
Given the choice, I would have preferred to tig that crack.
This method used cheap rods and a propane torch, and is something anyone can do. I like to show people that they don't need to be afraid of taking on repair projects as long as they take their time.
I wonder down the road how hard it will be fo weld the repair area. Its gonna be a lot more prep work to clean for a good weld
I had no intention of ever having it welded.
I just put a small cut in my sportspal a little more than a 1/4 of an inch at or above the water line of the bow. Should a person do both sides inside and out? Thanks I like your idea I figured JB weld had an aluminum one but this is better Marine did not know !
If definitely wouldn't hurt to do both sides. In this case, since it was a rivet, I could only access it from the outside. I can report the leak fully sealed.
@@TheWeekendAngler Thanks for your reply and the report.. I will buy some for sure! Happy Canoeing to you and enjoy the summer :-) Gotta put mine in real soon to see if there are leaks ha ha
That should do it bud!
I’ve got a John boat but it’s full of bb holes like like the little pellet sizes all through the bottom of the boat will this be a sufficient enough way to repair such damage?
Drill the holes and rivet them with sealed rivets. Can even cover the rivets in 3M 5200 adhesive
I have a deck with a seat and trolling motor mounted on my Jon boat. It there a way to fix it without flipping it upside down? I would rather not have to take all of that off just to patch a leak.
If you're careful with the epoxy, you could probably apply it in thin enough coats that it would not drip off. You'd have to keep a good eye on it, but I think it would work. Be sure and sand well and wipe it down between coats to promote adhesion.
Which method do you think lasts longer? JB Weld or brazing rods?
In my honest opinion the brazing rods will probably last longer. But they do require a little more prep work
My dad bought a boat used one time. He sold most of his rifles and shotguns because he didn't hunt anymore. The boat looked fine and sat in a covered shed for a few years. They took it out and it traveled kinda low in the water. He parked it in the garage overnight because it was late.
The next morning the entire garage floor was covered in water and there were holes all over the boat. Mice had been living and peeing inside the boat for years and made the bottom real thin therefore holes everywhere.
We spent all the time that I could come over putting a new front end on the boat then he sandblasted the rear and immediately big huge holes appeared. We ended up taking the boat to the scrapyard halfway fixed and he talked to my mom and ended up buying a new boat and reusing the trailer and motor. The trailer finally died and he boat a new one a few years back and the motor had no hydraulic lift so he traded it in for a used motor so basically the boat is new except for the motor. He had to tear that apart and replace a bunch of parts on that too. So in the long run he could have bought a new boat for less.
thanks for wasting my time with your bs story
B-reak
O-ut
A-nother
T-housand
Are you a boat dealer or do you like boats
Do it your way but i would never use epoxy either aluminum brazing rod or brad those rivets. That epoxy will crack off.
I've used it quite a bit. This Marine JB Weld is magic. I've never been unhappy with it.
@@wymple09 like good whiskey... choose your poison
Dont use steel brush. Embeds steel into aluminum and causes dissimilar corrosion
There is a hint of truth in this, but it needs explained. Don't use a brush that you've also used on steel to brush aluminum. It will deposit bits of steel into the aluminum and cause problems.
Buy a stainless steel brush, label it and use it ONLY for aluminum and you'll NEVER have that problem.
I use mapp gas and aluminum brazing rods Im surprised you didn't?? Epoxy is an effective band aid but I use the rods! Just make sure its prepped and cleaned never had 1 problem and I take my Jon on 200 ft lakes weekly in the summer !
FLEX SEAL
😂😂😂