Seen a video they did so Toyota themselves could plug and play and still charge the same. That and to resolve the issues of hack job work that causes other issues
great install and i bought the kits. How does the trailer connect to the tow pro? i had a look through and saw that you had the factory trailer plug and only added positive 12v to the rear bar. So does that kit in the footwell give the trailer brakes a signal through the normal 7 pin flat?
@austimages ah i see ive honestly never looked into it and have seen so many 12 pin flat plugs i assumed the 2nd row was for signal etc. Looked up a wiring diagram now and i see the blue wire is the service brake wire that generates the signal for the caravan
Awesome detailed vid, thanks 🙏 One question; do you have a duel battery setup (not that I saw that) if not does the Anderson for the trailer or camper trailer or possibly a caravan run off the single battery?
I don't have a dual battery setup in the car permanently. The Anderson for the trailer runs off the start battery/alternator, and powers a DC-DC charger that's in the trailer which charges the trailer battery. I've just made a removable module for the back of the car, which includes a fridge, inverter and a slimline LiFePO4 battery, which is charged by its own DC-DC charger, fed from a second Anderson plug that's mounted in the load area. I'll be doing a write-up/video of that setup in the future.
It's holding down the other end of the MIDI fuse, connected to the battery terminal itself. You can also add a second fuse/terminal next to the one I have used, so you can have two fuses/outputs. I've done this now to power a battery charger in the load area, but I haven't done the video/article on that yet.
The relay is to turn on/off the power to the trailer power feed, so it's only powered when the ignition is turned on. Depending on how you set up a DC-DC in the trailer, it's possible it could flatten the start battery if wired directly without a relay, as it could keep charging after the engine is switched off, until the voltage drops below 9v at the charger. The Richards kit includes the relay, and I prefer it that way for certainty.
Better still go to a electrical supply store and get waterproof glued heat shrink. A 50amp with chassis return... That junk.... by the time it at the dcdc in the van the voltage drop with that size cable it not 50amp draw no more...
The cable in the kit is 6B&S (13.5mm2). Chassis return gives less loss than running that size cable back to the battery, but even assuming loss would be the same, given a 50 amp draw, voltage drop is only about 0.8v at the trailer. REDARC 25/40/50 amp DC-DC chargers have a rated minimum input voltage of 9 volts. Given a nominal alternator output of 13.8v, that means you'll get at least 13 volts at the charger input when drawing a full 50 amps.
Agreed, glued heat shrink connectors are way better. Also a very very good product is glued heat shrink. I used these in “wet well” sewage tanks when swapping out the pumps. But one for each connection then bigger one for the 4 of them (3 phase and neutral). Must be glued heat shrink-feel just inside the end to tell. Heat from the middle all around, then and only then move out either side again all around evenly. Excess glue should spew out either end.
Very good as always
Looks like a big job. But it appears that Toyota kept the possibility of after market modifications in mind when designing the detail of the car.
Seen a video they did so Toyota themselves could plug and play and still charge the same. That and to resolve the issues of hack job work that causes other issues
@@ausguy4385 interesting! Do you mean “still change“, or indeed “charge”?
Hi
Your video is excellent. I was just wondering if you are going to do a video about installing the larger side mirrors for towing etc.
Peter
I will probably put some towing mirrors on at some stage, but not sure which ones yet. I wouldn't think it would happen until 2025 at the earliest.
Fantastic Detail... Thanks
great install and i bought the kits. How does the trailer connect to the tow pro? i had a look through and saw that you had the factory trailer plug and only added positive 12v to the rear bar. So does that kit in the footwell give the trailer brakes a signal through the normal 7 pin flat?
The kit gets the signal from the brake wire in the rear loom, and sends that back to the towpro.
@austimages ah i see ive honestly never looked into it and have seen so many 12 pin flat plugs i assumed the 2nd row was for signal etc. Looked up a wiring diagram now and i see the blue wire is the service brake wire that generates the signal for the caravan
Awesome detailed vid, thanks 🙏
One question; do you have a duel battery setup (not that I saw that) if not does the Anderson for the trailer or camper trailer or possibly a caravan run off the single battery?
I don't have a dual battery setup in the car permanently. The Anderson for the trailer runs off the start battery/alternator, and powers a DC-DC charger that's in the trailer which charges the trailer battery. I've just made a removable module for the back of the car, which includes a fridge, inverter and a slimline LiFePO4 battery, which is charged by its own DC-DC charger, fed from a second Anderson plug that's mounted in the load area. I'll be doing a write-up/video of that setup in the future.
What is the other stud on the battery positive terminal
It's holding down the other end of the MIDI fuse, connected to the battery terminal itself. You can also add a second fuse/terminal next to the one I have used, so you can have two fuses/outputs. I've done this now to power a battery charger in the load area, but I haven't done the video/article on that yet.
Anyone have a 300 without tye 3rd row?... whats where the seat would have been?
The floor level is lower, and there's a bit of a void.
Great vid mate but just wondering why you installed the relay? I didn't think it was needed in these 300's? That's what Redarc told me anyway
The relay is to turn on/off the power to the trailer power feed, so it's only powered when the ignition is turned on. Depending on how you set up a DC-DC in the trailer, it's possible it could flatten the start battery if wired directly without a relay, as it could keep charging after the engine is switched off, until the voltage drops below 9v at the charger. The Richards kit includes the relay, and I prefer it that way for certainty.
@@austimages yeah I understand why they're used just didn't think they were needed in this case. You're doing a great job with the build :)
Better still go to a electrical supply store and get waterproof glued heat shrink.
A 50amp with chassis return...
That junk.... by the time it at the dcdc in the van the voltage drop with that size cable it not 50amp draw no more...
The cable in the kit is 6B&S (13.5mm2). Chassis return gives less loss than running that size cable back to the battery, but even assuming loss would be the same, given a 50 amp draw, voltage drop is only about 0.8v at the trailer. REDARC 25/40/50 amp DC-DC chargers have a rated minimum input voltage of 9 volts. Given a nominal alternator output of 13.8v, that means you'll get at least 13 volts at the charger input when drawing a full 50 amps.
Agreed, glued heat shrink connectors are way better.
Also a very very good product is glued heat shrink.
I used these in “wet well” sewage tanks when swapping out the pumps.
But one for each connection then bigger one for the 4 of them (3 phase and neutral).
Must be glued heat shrink-feel just inside the end to tell.
Heat from the middle all around, then and only then move out either side again all around evenly.
Excess glue should spew out either end.