I noticed in another comment here that you said you were not very comfortable providing a voiceover. As a native English speaker, I can say that you are doing an excellent job. Thanks!
I'm from the U.S. and I Love his accent! And understand him perfectly. Plenty of people who live here, you cannot understand lol. I hear him loud and clear, never be ashamed brother! You speak English perfectly! God Bless.
I think i commented on one of his prior videos in that regard... As an encouragement, and i don`t regret it - as you said, the voiceover is definitely a great job and not anything that would render the videos worse in any regard... Those who have qualms with it are pretty much assholes who would find a problem in some other manner anyway, so what`s the point of appeasing such crowd? The accent is noticeable, but not in any way a detriment to the overall ``legibility`` of his english... Hell, everyone speaks with some kind of accent... From brits to anyone from either of the states to anywhere else in the world... Accent is just a fact of human speech, regardless of the language spoken... And the voice quality is pleasant to the ear, so there really is nothing to complain about... Hell, these voiceovers are more enjoyable than hearing most politicians speak, and they are supposed to be among the best orators, at least by the old schools of thought on the art of speaking...
From his very mild accent, I imagine he is German? IMHO, Germans seem to have “perfection in design and machining” built into their DNA. It’s stupid, I know, but I have rarely been disappointed in my prejudiced expectations, and here, I believe I am correct again. Beautiful work, photography, and narration.
Using that dead center with the live center to align the work piece is genius. I haven’t seen that little trick before. Your channel is inspiring. Keep up the great work! 👍
I typically don't bother with multipart TH-cam vids, because too often, they are poorly edited, and feel like a way for the content creator just to make more money off his/her content. This vid is the exception. Tightly edited, and straight to the point. Proper job👍👍👍
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! I feel what you said about more part youtube videos. It bores me too on other channels ;) So really happy to hear, you are ok with this one! :) Next part will come next week (hopefully :)
I have seen pantograph arms that affix to the column of the milling machine and run off of the mill spindle. It seems like a relatively simple design. At least not any more complicated that’s projects I’ve already seen you do. That might just be the ticket to your punch problem. Build a pantograph. More videos for the channel and a new solution to a problem.
@@erichill4796 The bandsaw was one of the best investions fur sure. It is a Berg&Schmid PBS 130. In my video "saw arbor and new machines" I showed it a little bit. I'm really happy to have this bandsaw.
Always fun redesigning parts for mini lathes. I've been working on redesigning the entire cross slide for the Grizzly G0768 for a bit. The only part (for now) I'm not planning on remaking is the compound slide.
I would have liked to hear why you are “upgrading” to an angular contact bearing over the needle bearing arrangement. What do you gain from this? Why is one preferred over the other? Very nice parts as usual!
Hi and thanks for your comment! I think I can say a little bit about in part two. At the time I made the first bearing arrangement I didn't know there were such small angular contact bearings. For me they are the more professional choice as I can preload them properly and they are sealed against dust and dirt. In addition to that I don't need two different bearing types (thrust and radial) as the angular contact bearings combine both.
Been following your channel a while now. Always interesting. Sometimes, I think your crazy putting so much work into mini lathe, then, I realise I'm just jealous as I'll probably never do half the things you do to mine. Your stamping jig looks simple enough though so may give that a go as I do need to stamp something similar but much smaller diameter
I really liked your letter/number stamping jig for holding things in alignment. While watching you use it I also thought that if you included some large diameter washers under the screws used to attach the holder to the long flat bar you wouldn’t have to use one hand to press on the open section of the holder to ensure the press blocks don’t shift or fall forward. If you had a specific reason for leaving the front open I would be interested in learning more since I have a handful of projects which will require letter/number pressing into steel so picking up and extra little tips would be great.
Personally I would love to have space and money for a large lathe. I miss my 12" Colchester, it would turn 10" diameter 4ft long (not that I ever did, too heavy to get in chuck in a garage without crane) It was big enough to do some interesting 'horizontal milling'
Yeah, it was brilliant! 👍 I always wondered how to go about punching those numbers around the circumference of the dial. As a possible alternative method, you could chuck the punch on a drill press with a clamp to lock the spindle from rotating, and then striking the spindle from the top of the drill press with a hammer to leave an impression. It gives you the option to adjust crooked numbers by slightly rotating the spindle. Frankly, you're too much of a perfectionist. I didn't notice it until you pointed it out. I bet you'll find the same or worse problem if you scrutinize other dials. I would rather have my work look imperfectly factory made than homemade.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I like it's simplicity, been drawing stuff far too complicated for me to make without more machines and material. Fabrication is all that was needed. 😣
Thanks for the hint! I'm not sure if they sell these types of handwheel in such a small size. The handly I need is actually tiny :) My plan is to mount it with only a set screw. The bearing assembly is designed that it works without the handle (handle is not needed for the preload).
Brilliant punch holder! 👍 I always wondered how to go about punching those numbers around the circumference of the dial. As a possible alternative method, you could chuck the punch on a drill press with a clamp to lock the spindle from rotating, and then striking the spindle from the top of the drill press with a hammer to leave an impression. It gives you the option to adjust crooked numbers by slightly rotating the spindle. Frankly, you're too much of a perfectionist. I didn't notice it until you pointed it out. I bet you'll find the same or worse problem if you scrutinize other dials. I would rather have my work look imperfectly factory made than homemade.
Verry nicely machined! But no matter how hard you try, there will always be some dust specles. When I rigorously clean my workbench and think it's spotless, I turn on my soldering microscope 😲
Oh yes :) I didn't want to waste the material so I clamped the hole bar in the chuck with a horrible stickout which causes it to vibrate quite badly when not supported with the center.
You needed to bore bearing seats in one installation of workpiece. Only that manner will gives you precision and coaxiality of bearing seats. And between bearings you just need to install a simply spacer... If you want absolutely exclude bearings axial movement - just choose a bit narrower bearings and install retaining rings or, maybe, use somekind lids...
Hi and thanks for your comment! Yes, ideally you want both bearing seats to be machined in the same setup. But that's not everytime possible. I carefully dialed in the part after flipping it over in both radial and axial direction and managed to get it to about 0,01mm accuracy. I guess that this is accurate enough for a good alignment. And yes, I have to make a little 2mm spacer ring which goes in between the two bearings. I missed that in my cad assembly. It has to be about 0,01mm narrower than the distance between both bearings to have some preload I guess. That's a least my plan.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I was thinking that, proposed straight bore would rely on circlips taking thrust of outer race where you have solid back stop. correct fitting tolerance for 35mm OD bearing is in the 5~10 micron range if I remember right?
What divisions did you use on your home made dividing plate? I hate to say but it doesn't quite look like an accurate way to create a dial, but I'd be happy to hear more. Also, how did you ensure your divisions will match your new acme thread? I'm not very good with these equations so I'm curious how you learned?
Klasse Arbeit.👍👍👍 Sag mal, wo hast du den Rändelrad her, das du in dein Rändelwerkzeug eingebaut hast? Hast du vielleicht ein Link davon. Ich habe auch vor so ein Werkzeug zu bauen, aber da fehlt mir das Rändelrad, bzw Schneidrad. Weil der rändelt ja eigentlich nicht sondern schneidet. Das gefällt mir viel besser, weil die Drehmaschine dadurch viel weniger Belastung hat. Aber du weißt schon was ich meine. Falls du ein Link davon hast, dan währe ich dir echt dankbar. Danke für deine Video und bleib gesund.
@ 15:00 you ask if anyone knows of a simple engraving attachment for the milling machine. Joe Pie did a video on one 7 years ago called "Engraving On a Manual Mill."
I didn't think that would work, but this is the first of 2 that I am talking about. @pawekowalski7469 I had to translate what you posted, So I hope that is what you were asking for.
How do you calculate the graduation of the dial? I want to make a dial for my mill, the outside diameter of the dial would be 40mm. If i want the increment to be 0.1mm , how to print a circle template please?
Have you ever tried electro etching the numbers. I have seen the process on other channels and the results were impressive, perhaps you could experiment with the process and see if it would work for you.
Hi, I actually electro etched some parts by myself and also made a video about the process. In this case I didn't thought about electro etching. Don't know why. But that would be actually quite a good idea for the numbers.
I'll wait to see the outcome of this project. But if the main intention is to replace the axial bearing with two radial bearings, you will be making a huge mistake, as the greatest stress suffered is axial and not radial.
Hi and thanks for your comment! I've said it in the video: The bearings I use now are angular contact bearing which mean, they can take both axial and radial forces. Of course the main forces are axial and by using two bearings which can be preloaded this will be a good solution. At least that's the plan :)
When you do things like this for your own workshop the time costs don’t matter………..for many DIY projects, mate rial costs can be prohibitive. To do work like this on a bespoke basis is prohibitive……….the value( charge) for the job can far exceed the. Cost of a new replacement machine. I learned from bitter experience this sad aspect of life!!! Stevros
@@stevecallachor1 even if it costs me more than a new one, you realize that you still have to do the same update, so I already have the base and I will be more satisfied.
What do you mean exactly? I know that I wanted 40 divisions on my handwheel. I printed the template accordingly and just translated from the paper to the handwheel as shown in the video.
@@kmalnasef1512 The spindle I use has 2mm pitch. That means by every full rotation the slide moves by 2mm. With 40 divisions on the scale it has a resolution of 0,05mm per division. I hope that makes sense :)
Yes, that would be probably a good idea. Don't know why I haven't thought about that. Ok, I must have ordered a stencil, but it might be worth the effort. Perhaps some day I will change. But then I have to make a new dial as I couldn't just turn down the diameter as the dial would be too small then.
Hi, not primarily, but you want the leadscrew to be supported both axially and radially. Perhaps it would be possible to use only thrust ball bearings too but I wanted to go this way.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I noticed in another comment here that you said you were not very comfortable providing a voiceover. As a native English speaker, I can say that you are doing an excellent job. Thanks!
I'm from the U.S. and I Love his accent! And understand him perfectly. Plenty of people who live here, you cannot understand lol. I hear him loud and clear, never be ashamed brother! You speak English perfectly! God Bless.
I think i commented on one of his prior videos in that regard... As an encouragement, and i don`t regret it - as you said, the voiceover is definitely a great job and not anything that would render the videos worse in any regard... Those who have qualms with it are pretty much assholes who would find a problem in some other manner anyway, so what`s the point of appeasing such crowd? The accent is noticeable, but not in any way a detriment to the overall ``legibility`` of his english... Hell, everyone speaks with some kind of accent... From brits to anyone from either of the states to anywhere else in the world... Accent is just a fact of human speech, regardless of the language spoken... And the voice quality is pleasant to the ear, so there really is nothing to complain about... Hell, these voiceovers are more enjoyable than hearing most politicians speak, and they are supposed to be among the best orators, at least by the old schools of thought on the art of speaking...
Absolutely agree!
Agreed. Please continue commentary.
From his very mild accent, I imagine he is German? IMHO, Germans seem to have “perfection in design and machining” built into their DNA. It’s stupid, I know, but I have rarely been disappointed in my prejudiced expectations, and here, I believe I am correct again. Beautiful work, photography, and narration.
Using that dead center with the live center to align the work piece is genius. I haven’t seen that little trick before. Your channel is inspiring. Keep up the great work! 👍
Count 2 inspired persons here!
Really like the way you made the dial without using expensive tools, great work!
Thank you very much for your comment! I really do appreciate that.
somebody cooked here, some proper techniques, nice too see you saving those calipers jaws
That dead center/, live center 4 jaw alignment setup was extremely helpful. Thank you!
Awful lot of people talk about it for set up but I think that's the first time I've seen anyone video it?
i like your talkin to us now. makes more sense when you're doin stuff.
Thanks for your feedback! It doesn't feel that comfortable but I try at least...
@@WeCanDoThatBetteryou sound great, and confident, clear articulation. Better than the"How it's made" TV show.
@@stephaniea9722 Thanks a lot! ;)
I typically don't bother with multipart TH-cam vids, because too often, they are poorly edited, and feel like a way for the content creator just to make more money off his/her content. This vid is the exception. Tightly edited, and straight to the point. Proper job👍👍👍
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! I feel what you said about more part youtube videos. It bores me too on other channels ;) So really happy to hear, you are ok with this one! :) Next part will come next week (hopefully :)
Excellent job. Definitely worth remaking in more durable material. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that.
Your videos are great! The "Poor man's dividing head" inspired me to come up with a similar arrangement!
Wieder einmal eine sehr schöne und interessante Arbeit! Schön das du so viel Wert auch auf die Details legst. Gute Videoaufnahmen.
Dankeschön! Das freut mich :)
Always delightful! Looking forward to the next!
Thank you very much for your kind comment!
Your skills are truly amazing. You're talented.👍👍👍👍👍I cheer for you.
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that :)
I love seeing you make such nice parts with simple (and elegantly genius) techniques. Bravo.
I have seen pantograph arms that affix to the column of the milling machine and run off of the mill spindle. It seems like a relatively simple design. At least not any more complicated that’s projects I’ve already seen you do. That might just be the ticket to your punch problem. Build a pantograph. More videos for the channel and a new solution to a problem.
That sounds great! I have to think about such an attachement :)
I second this idea! Stefan Gotteswinter has one that he uses to carve torx holes on screw heads. Schöne Grüße aus Hamburg!
What band saw do you have? Looks like it works well for you.
@@alessandrosilenzi He had such a machine, yes. But already sold it to someone else...
@@erichill4796 The bandsaw was one of the best investions fur sure. It is a Berg&Schmid PBS 130. In my video "saw arbor and new machines" I showed it a little bit. I'm really happy to have this bandsaw.
Always fun redesigning parts for mini lathes. I've been working on redesigning the entire cross slide for the Grizzly G0768 for a bit. The only part (for now) I'm not planning on remaking is the compound slide.
If it works it's ok :)
Very nice! I couldn't do that good of work in a hundred years.
Thank you very much! Till now this project was really straight forward. Didn't take too much time.
I would have liked to hear why you are “upgrading” to an angular contact bearing over the needle bearing arrangement. What do you gain from this? Why is one preferred over the other?
Very nice parts as usual!
Hi and thanks for your comment! I think I can say a little bit about in part two. At the time I made the first bearing arrangement I didn't know there were such small angular contact bearings. For me they are the more professional choice as I can preload them properly and they are sealed against dust and dirt. In addition to that I don't need two different bearing types (thrust and radial) as the angular contact bearings combine both.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter that makes sense! Thanks for the info!
Been following your channel a while now.
Always interesting.
Sometimes, I think your crazy putting so much work into mini lathe, then, I realise I'm just jealous as I'll probably never do half the things you do to mine.
Your stamping jig looks simple enough though so may give that a go as I do need to stamp something similar but much smaller diameter
Thanks for your kind words! :) I really do appreciate that. I just want to try what's possible on this machine. That's not a rational thing ;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I often wish I had the means and motivation to do the same with my old Enco 7x10. It's impressive what you do
Nice work, really admire the efforts that you put on your mini lathe, 👏
Thank you ;)
I like the number punching jig you have. I need to make one like that! :)
I really liked your letter/number stamping jig for holding things in alignment. While watching you use it I also thought that if you included some large diameter washers under the screws used to attach the holder to the long flat bar you wouldn’t have to use one hand to press on the open section of the holder to ensure the press blocks don’t shift or fall forward.
If you had a specific reason for leaving the front open I would be interested in learning more since I have a handful of projects which will require letter/number pressing into steel so picking up and extra little tips would be great.
Nice work, buddy😉
Thank you! :)
German engineering at the finest
Thank you very much for your kind comment! :)
Im from south Louisiana and believe me, your english is easier to understand than most of ours lmao
That was a great idea you used to punch those numbers. I will have to try that. By the way the numbers/letters on my punch set are bad too.
love to own a small/med lathe again then i,ll need a garage :)
Personally I would love to have space and money for a large lathe. I miss my 12" Colchester, it would turn 10" diameter 4ft long (not that I ever did, too heavy to get in chuck in a garage without crane)
It was big enough to do some interesting 'horizontal milling'
Damn nice dials you made there!
Thank you very much!
Good we are witing for the nexte
love the divider. Laser printers are a great source of accuracy if you use then right.
I definitely like your stamp jig😊
A little bit wild, but it does it's job ;)
Yeah, it was brilliant! 👍 I always wondered how to go about punching those numbers around the circumference of the dial. As a possible alternative method, you could chuck the punch on a drill press with a clamp to lock the spindle from rotating, and then striking the spindle from the top of the drill press with a hammer to leave an impression. It gives you the option to adjust crooked numbers by slightly rotating the spindle.
Frankly, you're too much of a perfectionist. I didn't notice it until you pointed it out. I bet you'll find the same or worse problem if you scrutinize other dials. I would rather have my work look imperfectly factory made than homemade.
@@bobweiram6321 oh, that's a brilliant idea! 😁
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I like it's simplicity, been drawing stuff far too complicated for me to make without more machines and material. Fabrication is all that was needed. 😣
Very nice work
Thank you!
I'd hire you, your work is great.
Thanks, my friend!
McMaster has some revolving handles that you can fold in so they arent in the way, another good option to make sure stuff isnt in the way
Thanks for the hint! I'm not sure if they sell these types of handwheel in such a small size. The handly I need is actually tiny :) My plan is to mount it with only a set screw. The bearing assembly is designed that it works without the handle (handle is not needed for the preload).
i love your lathe. keep rocking, greetings from mexico. pd; if you ever get rid off your lathe tell me first🤩
Thanks! :)
1. mini cnc engraver with rotary axis
2. laser marking (Laser Pecker,...)
3. cheap led laser engraver with rotary axis + paint + electrical etching
Brilliant punch holder! 👍 I always wondered how to go about punching those numbers around the circumference of the dial.
As a possible alternative method, you could chuck the punch on a drill press with a clamp to lock the spindle from rotating, and then striking the spindle from the top of the drill press with a hammer to leave an impression. It gives you the option to adjust crooked numbers by slightly rotating the spindle.
Frankly, you're too much of a perfectionist. I didn't notice it until you pointed it out. I bet you'll find the same or worse problem if you scrutinize other dials. I would rather have my work look imperfectly factory made than homemade.
Thanks for your kind feedback!
Verry nicely machined! But no matter how hard you try, there will always be some dust specles. When I rigorously clean my workbench and think it's spotless, I turn on my soldering microscope 😲
Thanks for video
Super robota 👋👋👍👍
Thank you very much!
oh again, thanks much!
Thank you ;)
love the work sir!
Thank you!
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера
7:47 I felt that one... 👁️🫦👁️
Oh yes :) I didn't want to waste the material so I clamped the hole bar in the chuck with a horrible stickout which causes it to vibrate quite badly when not supported with the center.
Outstanding.
Thanks!!
good video
Thanks!
You needed to bore bearing seats in one installation of workpiece. Only that manner will gives you precision and coaxiality of bearing seats. And between bearings you just need to install a simply spacer...
If you want absolutely exclude bearings axial movement - just choose a bit narrower bearings and install retaining rings or, maybe, use somekind lids...
Hi and thanks for your comment! Yes, ideally you want both bearing seats to be machined in the same setup. But that's not everytime possible. I carefully dialed in the part after flipping it over in both radial and axial direction and managed to get it to about 0,01mm accuracy. I guess that this is accurate enough for a good alignment. And yes, I have to make a little 2mm spacer ring which goes in between the two bearings. I missed that in my cad assembly. It has to be about 0,01mm narrower than the distance between both bearings to have some preload I guess. That's a least my plan.
In my design the bearings can't move axially because the were held together with the leadscrew spindle and a retaining nut.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I was thinking that, proposed straight bore would rely on circlips taking thrust of outer race where you have solid back stop.
correct fitting tolerance for 35mm OD bearing is in the 5~10 micron range if I remember right?
What divisions did you use on your home made dividing plate? I hate to say but it doesn't quite look like an accurate way to create a dial, but I'd be happy to hear more. Also, how did you ensure your divisions will match your new acme thread? I'm not very good with these equations so I'm curious how you learned?
Klasse Arbeit.👍👍👍
Sag mal, wo hast du den Rändelrad her, das du in dein Rändelwerkzeug eingebaut hast? Hast du vielleicht ein Link davon. Ich habe auch vor so ein Werkzeug zu bauen, aber da fehlt mir das Rändelrad, bzw Schneidrad. Weil der rändelt ja eigentlich nicht sondern schneidet. Das gefällt mir viel besser, weil die Drehmaschine dadurch viel weniger Belastung hat.
Aber du weißt schon was ich meine. Falls du ein Link davon hast, dan währe ich dir echt dankbar.
Danke für deine Video und bleib gesund.
Engraver attachment, look up Joe Pie. He is a very accomplished machinist and tool maker.
For the engraving...new tool! Laser engraver.
Would be cool, yes.
good job! Try to use laser engraving for digits.
Great 👏👏
I would like to become a patron. Do you supply the drawings for the compund slide modifications on your patron site ?
👍👍
You will have better results with knurling if you use plenty of lubricants. And maybe a slightly slower speed.
@ 15:00 you ask if anyone knows of a simple engraving attachment for the milling machine. Joe Pie did a video on one 7 years ago called "Engraving On a Manual Mill."
Oh thanks for the hint. I have to look for it!
Zmam Joe Pieczynski , możesz podać linka do jego filmu o grawerowaniu ?
th-cam.com/video/qtX0FM3txCo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pLjVT02HoUjviGr3
I didn't think that would work, but this is the first of 2 that I am talking about.
@pawekowalski7469 I had to translate what you posted, So I hope that is what you were asking for.
ダイアルに刻印を打っていますが、別の方法にパンタグラフ刻印という方法が
あります。フォントに違和感があるならば、先程述べた方法を利用するのも
いいかもしれません。この方法ならばフォントは自由に選べますし、文字の
大きさも自由に設定できます。
How do you calculate the graduation of the dial? I want to make a dial for my mill, the outside diameter of the dial would be 40mm. If i want the increment to be 0.1mm , how to print a circle template please?
Did you calculate in advantage the circumference of the new dial referring to the new main screw?
Yes I calculated this. The new lead screw moves 2mm per revolution. With the 40 division on the new scale the resulting resolution is 0,05mm.
You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, son.
Part 2/2: th-cam.com/video/TG07FUPsl_U/w-d-xo.html
Have you ever tried electro etching the numbers. I have seen the process on other channels and the results were impressive, perhaps you could experiment with the process and see if it would work for you.
Hi, I actually electro etched some parts by myself and also made a video about the process. In this case I didn't thought about electro etching. Don't know why. But that would be actually quite a good idea for the numbers.
5:18 Я бы насквозь прогнал отверстие за одну установку и проточил канавки внутри под стопорные кольца.
I'll wait to see the outcome of this project. But if the main intention is to replace the axial bearing with two radial bearings, you will be making a huge mistake, as the greatest stress suffered is axial and not radial.
Hi and thanks for your comment! I've said it in the video: The bearings I use now are angular contact bearing which mean, they can take both axial and radial forces. Of course the main forces are axial and by using two bearings which can be preloaded this will be a good solution. At least that's the plan :)
I have Tos mn 80, how much would it cost me to do the same work for me and in addition a transverse advance.
When you do things like this for your own workshop the time costs don’t matter………..for many DIY projects, mate rial costs can be prohibitive.
To do work like this on a bespoke basis is prohibitive……….the value( charge) for the job can far exceed the. Cost of a new replacement machine.
I learned from bitter experience this sad aspect of life!!!
Stevros
@@stevecallachor1 even if it costs me more than a new one, you realize that you still have to do the same update, so I already have the base and I will be more satisfied.
When is Part 2 coming?
In a few hours today ;)
Tank you.
Ah sh*t, here we go again 😂
Couldn't you etch the numbers?
no calipers were haemed in the makign of this video! ;)
Oh wow! You remember the very first video. I'm glad! :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter still cracks me up when i see that clown caliper! haha!
@@mike9500 :D next episode it's there again ;)
how did you know the scale positions on dial wheel?
What do you mean exactly? I know that I wanted 40 divisions on my handwheel. I printed the template accordingly and just translated from the paper to the handwheel as shown in the video.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
I mean how you know how long the distance if you rotate the dial a complete turn?
@@kmalnasef1512 The spindle I use has 2mm pitch. That means by every full rotation the slide moves by 2mm. With 40 divisions on the scale it has a resolution of 0,05mm per division. I hope that makes sense :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
yes that's it.
thank you.
great job
How about electrochemical engraving?
Yes, that would be probably a good idea. Don't know why I haven't thought about that. Ok, I must have ordered a stencil, but it might be worth the effort. Perhaps some day I will change. But then I have to make a new dial as I couldn't just turn down the diameter as the dial would be too small then.
Why the bearing change, there are no side loads on the shaft.
Hi, not primarily, but you want the leadscrew to be supported both axially and radially. Perhaps it would be possible to use only thrust ball bearings too but I wanted to go this way.
Began.
To have clean cnoorleng use compressor to clean chips on cut😊
Should try this next time. But I guess I need 2 more hands for this.
knurling :)