Wow, that single Mora got more care and attention than all the Mora knives combined in Sweden... We use them for just about everything, including opening cans, cutting chicken mesh, jamming it into an occasional fuse socket, and worse. Most users just buy a new one when it gets too damaged, but the most thorough of us simply sharpen them with a whetstone, and that's it. I've never ever even thought of polishing it back to its initial finish. Nice job!
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Got a bushcraft carbon this past weekend. Out of box it was the dullest mora I've had. I tried sharpen myself and got better. I watched this did exactly your technique and hair shaving sharp it took a bit but worth it. Thanks souch for this video!
Great technique and great tips. Thanks for the video! An alternate way to get similar results with available materials is something I found that works for me. I have a lot of very flat, 12” x 12” to 3”x 12” marble tiles left over from a bathroom job; for years I have used them with wet-or-dry type sandpaper (such as found at auto parts stores) in increasingly finer grades to sharpen my Mora knives and other blades. Use plain water to get the sandpaper to stick to the marble, and use a spray of water with a few added drops of dish detergent to lubricate the abrasive surface of the sandpaper and to wash the swarf off. After the job, clean each sheet of sandpaper with fresh water and set them aside to dry. Unless you cut the sandpaper or work the blades too hard, they can be re-used for quite awhile. If you have pieces of plate glass, they work just as well as hard stone. However, if you put glue under sandpaper to try to hold it in place, there is always a risk of trapping dirt or dust in the glue or creating bumps of glue under the working surface, any of which adversely affects the work and wastes time and money. Re-using glued-on sheets of sandpaper is difficult and not practical for finishing work; removing all the glue from the supporting surface to try to get a flat mounting surface for the sandpaper can be much more trouble than it is worth.
I have just the same experience as You, after 30/40 years of outdoor, hunting & fishing. The Mora knives are the TOP RANK, so good in all ways, and the sheepest there is on top
Terrific job, Kyle. I have a Mora Bushcraft (and several others) all with Scandi grinds, and I've been sharpening them on both the Tormek and the Wicked Edge. But after seeing your video, I think I'll do the Scandi grinds on the stones and sandpaper like this. Thanks for making this video, and greetings from Australia. :)
For those who want a mirror shine. Take regular cardboard. Like a box. Take some metal polish or rubbing compound on it. Let it dry. Now strop your knife on the cardboard. It will immediately start turning black as it removes metal. Very safe! I cut my cardboard the size of a whetstone. A lil bigger if you like..
One of the best Reviews on sharpening I’ve seen! I’ve been sharpening for years and I still learned something new regarding Scandinavia grinds! Thank you.
Just have to love the internet and the trolls/Mora haters. That blade is beautiful, nice work! Mora makes a great knife, and when you factor in the price, they're simply unbeatable.
Being a mora hater is kinda stupid. It's the goto knife in all of Scandinavia and has been since forever, and not simply favoured by johnny come lately internet enthusiasts but by working people and craftsmen. Just a common, functioning tool that has earned its keep. If someone want to knock it for having some features of a cheap knife, well go nuts. I can by twenty mora classics for the price of one high end knife, they are superbly useful for the tasks they are actually meant to perform, easy to sharpen and maintain and should you lose or break one oh well. I've got a bunch of them lying around - some dating back as far as the 70's.
whynottalklikeapirat Exactly! I have a laminated carving knife I’ve used for decades. Takes a razor edge, makes great spoons and wood spirits and walking sticks.
whynottalklikeapirat Exactly! I have a laminated carving knife I’ve used for decades. Takes a razor edge, makes great spoons and wood spirits and walking sticks.
@@asmith7876 Well - some people expect a knife to also be a crow bar and hatchet. I tend to pair a mora and a swiss army knife with an old parang that's not too big, that I bought in Indonesia many years ago, and that's about all I need for the places I go. Frankly most of the work I do with the parang, which is just multipurpose. The rest is the mora and the pocket knife is really just a light weight tool box, I rarely if ever use that blade anymore but I guess it's more redundancy, which is always good, knifewise. I could get a light weight folding saw I guess but the need for extensive wood processing hasn't arisen yet.
whynottalklikeapirat I’m about the same. I carry a Silky saw, Swiss Army knife, currently a Mora Garberg, and a small hatchet or tomahawk, depending on the fun planned for that trip.
Thankyou so much for this. For the first time in my life I now have a knife that slices paper with ease. I had so much fun slicing my way through sheet after sheet. So enjoyable!!! Thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your technique,ive just ordered a mora Garberg and hopefully now i can keep it up to speck, er ! when i get a decent wet stone and some grit paper. Greetings from Wales UK.
I was surprised not very long ago to find that I own TWELVE Mora knives - didn't realize how much I love them, I guess. I've got utility knives, bushcraft knives, woodcarving, etc., in stainless steel and carbon steel. My DMT Duosharp system (600&1000 grit), plus a strop with Frommes Strop Dressing, keeps them in great shape. Another great video, thanks!
You don't need to be a rocket scientist to be able to sharpen a mora . If you can't sharpen one at least practice it until you know before you go out in the wild . Same goes with all skills . No point in having a "razors edge " if you can't maintain it or even know how to use it . Knowledge is the best weapon in the field . And we all need people like you showing how it's done so well done for that and great tutorial. Xpeacex god bless you and your family xpeacex
Just sharpened my Mora Garberg carbon for the first time with wetstones and after that stroped it. Got the same mirror edge amazing 🤘🤘 great knife great steel. Love Mora
Once again, such a nice job. You’ve got quite a skill. It’s all,in the feel. I believe either you got the feel or you don’t and not everyone can perfect that skill unless they have that feel, that touch. Only someone who sharpens knows what I’m talking about.
I use a small piece of plate glass (very flat) and spray it with contact cement from a can and just stick the sandpaper on it, easy to remove and stops the sandpaper from curling or lifting. Don't spray both the sandpaper and glass as it's hard to remove afterwards.
I just needed to rip open some plastic bags and used my Mora Robust with the factory edge. It sliced through the plastic like butter. I like it very much, it's a small blade, so it is not intimidating and doesn't attract a lot of attention. The thickness of the spine is awesome and allows it to be really abused. It was $13.34 on Amazon with free 2-day shipping. How can you go wrong?
Aha! Guess what! I watched a video you made years ago this morning. It could have been made yesterday I wouldn't have been any the wiser. So pleased that I watched it. I could almost feel the sharpness way over here in the UK. Tip Top! ✌️🤗👍
i gifted one to my dad, at the beginig he didnt like it as much but later on ... he usses it only for meat cutting and dry meat cutting :D its AWESOME knife! so sharp man! so sharp!
nice job!! Mora's are such nice knives, and so affordable. I really do not need a Rambo-type blade, I always carry my machete plus the Bushcraft and a swiss army pocket knife, and this is just what I need
Shit man! That's so sharp it could cut a fart. I've been told on several occasions that I can really put an edge on a blade. I use to make a little money in high school sharpening knives. I was also a butcher for about 4 years. But I bow to you Sir. That's insane. Never had a scandi though. Just ordered my two kids their first knives. Mora 511's. I called the distributer today to check on the status of them and decided I wanted one too so I added on a Mora Companion Heavy Duty in OD Green. Gonna add ceramic stones, 550 cord and fire rods to all three. Now for a quick joke. Why does the Norwegian Navy have barcodes on the side of their ships? So when they pull into port they can Scandinavian. LOL.
So nice to see a craftsman at work... awesome video. Strangely addictive watching...and I don't even have a Mora Bushcraft knife! HaHa must get me one!
Darn good clip mate! A lot of people will find this very useful. I still have a big set of Japanese stones but I went to diamond plates for convenience a long time ago. I have a few DMT's but mostly EZE lap. I found the EZE lap to be extremely long lasting, fast and fine cutting plates...But that is a hotly argued topic on sharpening forums.
I have a casström woodsman that i had to grind insanely much since the rounded part of the blade actually had a convex grind. However it's nice to know that I won't have to do it again! Regular sharpening is the smartest thing i think! Great work by the way!
Thanks much Kyle. Enjoyed watching. I use a Mora Bushcraft Black and will remember what you taught here. I've not been able to beat the Black for the price. I wondered if you have a suggestion for a custom knife. Thus far I'm impressed with the Adventure Sworn Explorer and Rob Evans MK1 Tribute knife.
Coming from someone who owns many diamond stones. Many DMT’’s, including the x coarse, Atomas, Falkniven, and many more. I actually think using sandpaper is faster and gives a much better polish. 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper is a much better looking edge than a 400 grit stone. Sandpaper is my favorite way for flattening stones. Does a great job. Diamond stones have their place, they are one of the only ways to sharpen super hard powder steels, but I don’t bother with those.
Very nicely done....I have a robust hq and I can put a sweet edge on that thing that cuts like butter. Although its carbon steel not stainless. Good vid and relaxing to watch, well done !
Awesome video! For anybody who has taken their mora to a true scandi, how long did it take and which grits/materials did you use? Thinking about doing this with my garberg. Thanks!
Awesome video. I'll be doing this to my mora this weekend. Just subscribed to your channel and can't wait to see more. Thanks for the great tips. Keep up the good work. Be safe.
Fantastic video my mora garberg was dull af when i got it i had no idea even what a micro bevel was i watched a couple of your videos and turned my mora into a true scandi its razor sharp now i can shave hairs with it and cut thru paper like hot butter took me a couple hours but all i needed was some sand paper and my old whetstone i been using wrong for years till i watched this vid lol
You did a Great Job on that missed up edge. I was hoping you would show the cleaning up of the Top Spine in your video too. Very Nice Job of it, Thanks.
Me too! I think every man likes to see something imprecise made back into 90 degrees, as baby Jesus intended for corners to be. Good job on the finished product though, right? I'm going to check out that FB business page link below in this comments comments, in case I ever mess one up so bad I have to pay to have it done :-) ---could happen, I think.
Under the tip is not flat, there is a convex bevel. Btw the original skandi grind is not flat! They used very big diameter grinding stones, so the bevel become hollow. (sorry for my poor english)
The stone is from 25 cm to about 50 cm in diameter, then we hone them flat, but only each side of the bevel. Quicker to hone and easier to get flat freehand.
Here is a tip. Don't be offended. Sand paper, regardless of what's under it, will not give you a perfectly flat surface on your knife blade. It tends to bunch up in front of the knife edge and cause a slightly curved bevel. If you insist on using sand paper to finish an edge, then glue it to a perfectly flat surface. I use an aluminum block that was machined to be perfectly flat. Use tacky glue. the old paper peals right off when you need to replace it. Otherwise you should only use a stone to finish the bevel.
Haha Tim, we're living in tough times, when you need to start a piece of friendly advice with the words, "don't be offended". I understand that paper will move SLIGHTLY. However, if the right techniques are used, we're still only talking about a convex of a few thousandths, which is certainly okay by my standards. Hand sharpening isn't a game of thousandths, in any case. The human body will introduce some error even on a perfect surface.
@@kyle_noseworthy: Tough times indeed. People don't see comments like mine as advice anymore. They see only criticism. You are right about the slight convex being no issue in the real world of knife usage... but I will caution you, this is not the real world... this is the internet... where the majority of people viewing knife making videos are knife snobs and will grade your work based on some computer generated, CNC perfection. I personally convex all of my bevels, so that mere humans can sharpen the edge effectively and easily, without feeling guilty over "altering perfection".
Great video. I have a Bahco 2444 which I'm relatively sure is a Mora, and I've used it quite a bit so it's in need of sharpening. I'm glad I didn't put a micro bevel on it before watching this.
Really useful video, particularly where you incorporate sandpapers with the whetstone. A few tips on how to keep the correct angle as you rotate the knife towards the tip would be helpful. It's probably one of those feel/experience things - I guess I could sacrifice a Mora 511 to learning how to get this right!
Hey Chris! Thanks for watching. I try my best to make these videos as educational as possible, but I have released so many sharpening videos that I now sometimes exclude pieces of info as to not be monotonous. I have mentioned angles in several videos, including a video where I explained geometry using a whiteboard and drawings. Its a difficult balance, trying to teach new-comers, but also trying to progress with long-term viewers who have seen my previous content. :-)
Thanks Kyle - I totally understand the balance issue! I've only just found your channel and have subscribed and will go back to find the videos that deal with the angles. Looking forward to it :-)
I have a Mora that I regrettably have drawn through a double sided ceramic sharpener. However, I do have DMT's in 400, 600 and 1000 grit that should make short work to regain the original Scandi grind. Nice video, if I could give it more than one thumb up I would.
thanks Ryan! I really appreciate that bud. I'll eventually invest in a set of DMT's, I would say, but my experience with them so far is that they tend to lose effectiveness quickly. They wear out!
Kyle Noseworthy - Weiderfan I thought my DMT stones wore out quickly too, HOWEVER, they continue to be very effective at removing material. I think that the stones are actually much coarser than advertised when they are new. Possibly due to the manufacturing process? Seems like they loose their rough new feel quickly and "settle in" to a more truly imbedded grit, smoother feel. I sharpen multiple knives on a weekly basis with mine, had the same set for a year now and even the xx fine which feels smooth as glass to the touch turns black with blade steel every time I use it.
Like Nathan said DMTs start out much rougher than their actual grit because of something like extra diamonds stuck to the real grit diamonds embedded in the stone. Ive had a set of DMTs for a few years and ive sharpend lots of knives on them and I also have used them to flatten both waterstones and an india stone they still work great! Also could you be able to show a little more of your technique for sharpening the knife? I have a mora and ended up putting a bit of a microbevel or convex on the front half of the knife.
ceramic isn't to bad. I'd just be skeptical that its actually the right angle. Its the carbide ones I'd steer clear of since they just tear metal off the edge, giving a really rough nasty edge, and also taking away an absurd amount of metal for the edge they achieve.
I wear down diamond stones by sharpening my axes with them first. From what I've head(could be wrong), the diamonds are just more aggressive till you wear them down. I really only use diamond for creating the bevel, removing chips, or otherwise removing a lot of material. Otherwise I tend to use arkansas or whet stones.
very nice job! i would have liked seeing the polished surface directly after the 6000 grid before stropping. because in find it hard to get an even finish at fine hard stones on broad surfaces like scandi blades. espacially at the curved part. do you have any advice to get rid of this problem?
I sharpen on sandpaper. Having the paper on a sanding block that has those metal spring clips. Works perfect. In one hand the Mora the other the sanding block. You can even do that watching tv 😁. The softer backing on that type of sanding block has a rubber type material, which results in a nice slight convex edge, which is a little stronger than the totally straight scandi edge. You will never have those uneven issues with the sandpaper with that rubber backing. The whole scandi bevel gets evenly worked.
I attach files onto a pole and put the pole through a hook screw that i screw into on my bench. Then fix my knife down to a portable bench a bit lower than my bench. The file stays at a perfect angle. You can even get water stones on sticks but I do that bit by hand. It works great on axes too
Beautiful result! I'm curious, when sharpening one side and then the other as opposed to going back and forth, are you concerned about making the cutting edge uneven at all? Iv wanted to try it but I'm worried about the edge becoming lopsided because it's tough to keep count on exactly how many passes have been done on each side. Thanks!
I bought a used Mora Companion Heavy Duty with a secondary-beveled, dull edge and made it a true scandi that drops all hair in one slice finishing on a 600 grit ceramic stone. No need to mirror polish
Thanks man! Been using it for awhile as a saving on my other tools. Quite effective. A fresh polish is so captivating isn't it?! haha I feel like one of those birds who are obsessed with "shiny"!
Something that puzzles me, a total novice - you are trying to maintain a consistent angle, whether to sharpen Scandi or a micro bevel, right? I first saw the issue around 8:31. You are working the knife towards the point, sort of taking the bend, but you seem to raise your hand just before you change direction again, near the point. Doesn't this raise the angle you make and tend to round, or at least steepen your bevel? Thank you
Mora makes fine knives. Even the few dollar "tool knives" you get from them are quite decent considering the ultra low price point. 20-50 bucks and you're set for years, even decades with proper care.
2nd video I watched from you. Was kinda paying attention,then I looked up & saw that drawer liner. I began using under my stone about 27yrs ago. But I was pleasantly surprised to see that red anti slide material (mines black now.was green)lol
You have motivated me to check my Mora knives and I notice that stropping sessions have caused a slight secondary bevel and will cease that practice. Thanks for the enlightenment, however I'm struggling a bit to transition from the body to the tip and maintain the same angle and pressure during sharpening. Do you have any suggestions?
I had a carbonsteel mora of this very kind a couple of years ago and i did put on a true scandinavian grind, without the micro bevel. It din't work at all. All of the sudden it was extremly prone to deformation and to some degree chipping of the edge. There was not enough beef left to support the edge. Maybe the stainless steel variants can handle it, the carbonsteel one i had could not at all. So be aware of that. I complete regrind where one puts a steeper angle on the knife would work of course.
Hey Kyle, how are you? What is the function of the micro bevel? Why would want it, or remove it? My guess is it will be sharper without it but gets dull easier? Is that correct?
Hi, i am a boy scout and i really only use my knife (a mora)on camping trips, which are every few months. Because of this, i really haven't sharpened at all. Now i need to sharpen it and i dont want to spend ~$100 on stones that I'm rarely going to use, so i think sandpaper is one of by best options. If I were to sharpen my mora with sand paper, should I attach the paper to a marble counter top, or would a flat piece of wood be good enough?
Great looking knife, great video, Thanks. I learned how to sharpen 50 year ago, ,, ,I can sharpen almost anything, but some Moras just don't get sharp [ some do ] , I can barely cut paper. I have used water stones, (in progression), Whashita, Ark, then Black Ark, , stropped with and without compounds. I really don't want to blame the steel, but Are some of these possibly seconds (E-bay, discount priced, improperly fired )? Open for anyone to respond. Thank you. None of these knives ever left the house, I never did a micro bevel on any of them.
Proper bloody good job, #KyleNoseworthy! So, please tell me... I have a Morakniv #Kansbol knife. How much would it cost to have it enhanced to a finely polished surface? And what do you charge for the job, as well?
my problem was thinking i needed a burr like on other edges(convex) i niticed you went as cose to the apex as posiible without actually hitting it , 100 grit , and then got closer to apex as you went up on grit, have king you have and will try the 200 grit paper thanks
Depends on the edge of the knife before sharpening, but yes you could definitely start at 1k. It would just take longer if the knife is full beforehand.
Great video. I'm about to sharpen my first scandi on my stones. Got into free hand a few months ago and now have all my stones! Just got my mora bushcraft black in and to say the least its not very sharp. I planned on sharpening it anyways and I also noticed they even put a tiny microbevel on the black. This video will help for sure, I was especially looking for some tips on the tip lol. Just one thing about your video, next time you should put the camera somewhere where we can see the entire knife while sharpening instead of your left hand blocking all the action! I think I have the gist of it now though, thanks!
Do these knifes come with a micro bevel or did someone sharpen this one wrong? And if they come with it, why do they do it? There has to be some advantage to it then.
![Repairing the worst MORA BUSHCRAFT I have ever seen! - [WATERSTONE SHARPENING]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cuZHrq-zQ4Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![Repairing the worst MORA BUSHCRAFT I have ever seen! - [WATERSTONE SHARPENING]](/img/tr.png)
![Are MORA Edges Terrible? - [ NEW MORA KANSBOL ]](/img/n.gif)
Wow, that single Mora got more care and attention than all the Mora knives combined in Sweden... We use them for just about everything, including opening cans, cutting chicken mesh, jamming it into an occasional fuse socket, and worse. Most users just buy a new one when it gets too damaged, but the most thorough of us simply sharpen them with a whetstone, and that's it. I've never ever even thought of polishing it back to its initial finish.
Nice job!
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Watching this guy sharpen knives is like watching Bob Ross paint trees.
Got a bushcraft carbon this past weekend. Out of box it was the dullest mora I've had. I tried sharpen myself and got better. I watched this did exactly your technique and hair shaving sharp it took a bit but worth it. Thanks souch for this video!
Interesting - I bought the cheapest Morakniv available and it came with the most AMAZING factory edge I’ve ever encountered at any price
@@patrickandkennafenwick3958 I had a dull mora, specifically the black carbon bush craft as well.
Great technique and great tips. Thanks for the video! An alternate way to get similar results with available materials is something I found that works for me. I have a lot of very flat, 12” x 12” to 3”x 12” marble tiles left over from a bathroom job; for years I have used them with wet-or-dry type sandpaper (such as found at auto parts stores) in increasingly finer grades to sharpen my Mora knives and other blades. Use plain water to get the sandpaper to stick to the marble, and use a spray of water with a few added drops of dish detergent to lubricate the abrasive surface of the sandpaper and to wash the swarf off. After the job, clean each sheet of sandpaper with fresh water and set them aside to dry. Unless you cut the sandpaper or work the blades too hard, they can be re-used for quite awhile. If you have pieces of plate glass, they work just as well as hard stone. However, if you put glue under sandpaper to try to hold it in place, there is always a risk of trapping dirt or dust in the glue or creating bumps of glue under the working surface, any of which adversely affects the work and wastes time and money. Re-using glued-on sheets of sandpaper is difficult and not practical for finishing work; removing all the glue from the supporting surface to try to get a flat mounting surface for the sandpaper can be much more trouble than it is worth.
I have used all of those methods, and they work just fine. Agreed
I have just the same experience as You, after 30/40 years of outdoor, hunting & fishing. The Mora knives are the TOP RANK, so good in all ways, and the sheepest there is on top
Terrific job, Kyle. I have a Mora Bushcraft (and several others) all with Scandi grinds, and I've been sharpening them on both the Tormek and the Wicked Edge. But after seeing your video, I think I'll do the Scandi grinds on the stones and sandpaper like this. Thanks for making this video, and greetings from Australia. :)
For those who want a mirror shine. Take regular cardboard. Like a box. Take some metal polish or rubbing compound on it. Let it dry. Now strop your knife on the cardboard. It will immediately start turning black as it removes metal. Very safe! I cut my cardboard the size of a whetstone. A lil bigger if you like..
If you use wood there is even less give in the material you are stropping on which makes the scandi less convex
One of the best Reviews on sharpening I’ve seen! I’ve been sharpening for years and I still learned something new regarding Scandinavia grinds! Thank you.
Just have to love the internet and the trolls/Mora haters. That blade is beautiful, nice work! Mora makes a great knife, and when you factor in the price, they're simply unbeatable.
Being a mora hater is kinda stupid. It's the goto knife in all of Scandinavia and has been since forever, and not simply favoured by johnny come lately internet enthusiasts but by working people and craftsmen. Just a common, functioning tool that has earned its keep. If someone want to knock it for having some features of a cheap knife, well go nuts. I can by twenty mora classics for the price of one high end knife, they are superbly useful for the tasks they are actually meant to perform, easy to sharpen and maintain and should you lose or break one oh well. I've got a bunch of them lying around - some dating back as far as the 70's.
whynottalklikeapirat Exactly! I have a laminated carving knife I’ve used for decades. Takes a razor edge, makes great spoons and wood spirits and walking sticks.
whynottalklikeapirat Exactly! I have a laminated carving knife I’ve used for decades. Takes a razor edge, makes great spoons and wood spirits and walking sticks.
@@asmith7876 Well - some people expect a knife to also be a crow bar and hatchet. I tend to pair a mora and a swiss army knife with an old parang that's not too big, that I bought in Indonesia many years ago, and that's about all I need for the places I go. Frankly most of the work I do with the parang, which is just multipurpose. The rest is the mora and the pocket knife is really just a light weight tool box, I rarely if ever use that blade anymore but I guess it's more redundancy, which is always good, knifewise. I could get a light weight folding saw I guess but the need for extensive wood processing hasn't arisen yet.
whynottalklikeapirat I’m about the same. I carry a Silky saw, Swiss Army knife, currently a Mora Garberg, and a small hatchet or tomahawk, depending on the fun planned for that trip.
Thankyou so much for this. For the first time in my life I now have a knife that slices paper with ease. I had so much fun slicing my way through sheet after sheet. So enjoyable!!! Thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your technique,ive just ordered a mora Garberg and hopefully now i can keep it up to speck, er ! when i get a decent wet stone and some grit paper. Greetings from Wales UK.
I was surprised not very long ago to find that I own TWELVE Mora knives - didn't realize how much I love them, I guess. I've got utility knives, bushcraft knives, woodcarving, etc., in stainless steel and carbon steel. My DMT Duosharp system (600&1000 grit), plus a strop with Frommes Strop Dressing, keeps them in great shape.
Another great video, thanks!
I’ve done this to all three of my Scandys and it was well worth the effort. Thanks for the tip.
You don't need to be a rocket scientist to be able to sharpen a mora . If you can't sharpen one at least practice it until you know before you go out in the wild . Same goes with all skills . No point in having a "razors edge " if you can't maintain it or even know how to use it . Knowledge is the best weapon in the field . And we all need people like you showing how it's done so well done for that and great tutorial. Xpeacex god bless you and your family xpeacex
Just sharpened my Mora Garberg carbon for the first time with wetstones and after that stroped it. Got the same mirror edge amazing 🤘🤘 great knife great steel. Love Mora
I have an old Mora Traditional fisherman( wooden handled job with scaler on the back) it’s always had a microbevel on it, cuts fine.
Absolutely beautiful. You know your stuff. Professional work.
You're a talented man. Wish I knew someone to teach me that precious skill.
michael langshaw thanks! I have thought about offering classes. 1 on 1 or group sessions!
Once again, such a nice job. You’ve got quite a skill. It’s all,in the feel. I believe either you got the feel or you don’t and not everyone can perfect that skill unless they have that feel, that touch. Only someone who sharpens knows what I’m talking about.
I use a small piece of plate glass (very flat) and spray it with contact cement from a can and just stick the sandpaper on it, easy to remove and stops the sandpaper from curling or lifting. Don't spray both the sandpaper and glass as it's hard to remove afterwards.
I have seen this method Hue! Very nice :-)
cant mem. name , ask worker if they have light sticking spray, , peels right off
I just needed to rip open some plastic bags and used my Mora Robust with the factory edge. It sliced through the plastic like butter. I like it very much, it's a small blade, so it is not intimidating and doesn't attract a lot of attention. The thickness of the spine is awesome and allows it to be really abused. It was $13.34 on Amazon with free 2-day shipping. How can you go wrong?
Probably one of the best knives you can get for $30.Super happy with mine. It could do with some sharpening though.
Aha! Guess what! I watched a video you made years ago this morning. It could have been made yesterday I wouldn't have been any the wiser.
So pleased that I watched it.
I could almost feel the sharpness way over here in the UK.
Tip Top! ✌️🤗👍
Thank you, Phil!
i gifted one to my dad, at the beginig he didnt like it as much but later on ... he usses it only for meat cutting and dry meat cutting :D its AWESOME knife! so sharp man! so sharp!
Just awesome! I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos. Cheers mate!
Thanks so much Terry!
nice job!! Mora's are such nice knives, and so affordable. I really do not need a Rambo-type blade, I always carry my machete plus the Bushcraft and a swiss army pocket knife, and this is just what I need
Shit man! That's so sharp it could cut a fart. I've been told on several occasions that I can really put an edge on a blade. I use to make a little money in high school sharpening knives. I was also a butcher for about 4 years. But I bow to you Sir. That's insane. Never had a scandi though. Just ordered my two kids their first knives. Mora 511's. I called the distributer today to check on the status of them and decided I wanted one too so I added on a Mora Companion Heavy Duty in OD Green. Gonna add ceramic stones, 550 cord and fire rods to all three. Now for a quick joke. Why does the Norwegian Navy have barcodes on the side of their ships? So when they pull into port they can Scandinavian. LOL.
So nice to see a craftsman at work... awesome video. Strangely addictive watching...and I don't even have a Mora Bushcraft knife! HaHa must get me one!
Darn good clip mate! A lot of people will find this very useful. I still have a big set of Japanese stones but I went to diamond plates for convenience a long time ago. I have a few DMT's but mostly EZE lap. I found the EZE lap to be extremely long lasting, fast and fine cutting plates...But that is a hotly argued topic on sharpening forums.
I have a casström woodsman that i had to grind insanely much since the rounded part of the blade actually had a convex grind. However it's nice to know that I won't have to do it again! Regular sharpening is the smartest thing i think! Great work by the way!
The best sharpening video that I have seen.
Holy snapping Arshole Batman that looks awesome.Love the technique,just sound your channel.
Thanks much Kyle. Enjoyed watching. I use a Mora Bushcraft Black and will remember what you taught here. I've not been able to beat the Black for the price. I wondered if you have a suggestion for a custom knife. Thus far I'm impressed with the Adventure Sworn Explorer and Rob Evans MK1 Tribute knife.
Love the sandpaper trick!
I wish people could se a real old Mora knife... The steel in those 100 year knifes are amazing!
Coming from someone who owns many diamond stones. Many DMT’’s, including the x coarse, Atomas, Falkniven, and many more. I actually think using sandpaper is faster and gives a much better polish. 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper is a much better looking edge than a 400 grit stone. Sandpaper is my favorite way for flattening stones. Does a great job. Diamond stones have their place, they are one of the only ways to sharpen super hard powder steels, but I don’t bother with those.
Great video! I actually prefer the micro bevel mora comes with. I tend to get a chippy blade when I've removed the micro bevel in the past.
Nicely polished. I've never had a top end mora before. I have a few of the super cheap ones and even those don't disappoint. Good job bud.
I agree man. Mora makes a fantastic knife even at the $12 range. Very impressive company that KNOW what works.
I as god at plane blades and chisels but could not do my cooks knives this has given me a new perspective will try it on them
Awesome job on that blade, wow!
Thanks Paul! I do my best :-)
Very nicely done....I have a robust hq and I can put a sweet edge on that thing that cuts like butter. Although its carbon steel not stainless. Good vid and relaxing to watch, well done !
I've been wanting one of those bud! Very cool knives. Their carbon steel is actually pretty tough! Glad you enjoyed. Thanks! :-)
I thought I kept my mora knives pretty sharp until I tried your method. Man that really works!
Thanks! Pretty easy and cheap too!
Nice job. You made that pretty knife beautiful.
Ah yes Kyle. Very nicely done
Awesome video! For anybody who has taken their mora to a true scandi, how long did it take and which grits/materials did you use? Thinking about doing this with my garberg. Thanks!
Awesome video. I'll be doing this to my mora this weekend. Just subscribed to your channel and can't wait to see more. Thanks for the great tips. Keep up the good work. Be safe.
Very nice restoration! Mora knives are fantastic knives for sure. You definitely did this one justice:) Take care.
Thanks BHB! I appreciate you watching. This is a great knife
Fantastic video my mora garberg was dull af when i got it i had no idea even what a micro bevel was i watched a couple of your videos and turned my mora into a true scandi its razor sharp now i can shave hairs with it and cut thru paper like hot butter took me a couple hours but all i needed was some sand paper and my old whetstone i been using wrong for years till i watched this vid lol
You did a Great Job on that missed up edge. I was hoping you would show the cleaning up of the Top Spine in your video too. Very Nice Job of it, Thanks.
I decided to leave that out this time Danny :-) Sorry!
Kyle Noseworthy - Weiderfan hi how much do you charge for restoring knifes?
Alex Foxe That is his company’s FB page. Kyle is a super cool guy.
I was hoping to see the spine sharpen too
Me too! I think every man likes to see something imprecise made back into 90 degrees, as baby Jesus intended for corners to be. Good job on the finished product though, right? I'm going to check out that FB business page link below in this comments comments, in case I ever mess one up so bad I have to pay to have it done :-) ---could happen, I think.
Nice video, very interesting. Inspired me to renovate an old Mora that I found at work.
Have fun! I'm glad you enjoyed it Gareth. Take care
Under the tip is not flat, there is a convex bevel. Btw the original skandi grind is not flat! They used very big diameter grinding stones, so the bevel become hollow. (sorry for my poor english)
The stone is from 25 cm to about 50 cm in diameter, then we hone them flat, but only each side of the bevel. Quicker to hone and easier to get flat freehand.
Seems like I am watching all of your videos, helps beginner like me
Here is a tip. Don't be offended. Sand paper, regardless of what's under it, will not give you a perfectly flat surface on your knife blade. It tends to bunch up in front of the knife edge and cause a slightly curved bevel. If you insist on using sand paper to finish an edge, then glue it to a perfectly flat surface. I use an aluminum block that was machined to be perfectly flat. Use tacky glue. the old paper peals right off when you need to replace it. Otherwise you should only use a stone to finish the bevel.
Haha Tim, we're living in tough times, when you need to start a piece of friendly advice with the words, "don't be offended".
I understand that paper will move SLIGHTLY. However, if the right techniques are used, we're still only talking about a convex of a few thousandths, which is certainly okay by my standards. Hand sharpening isn't a game of thousandths, in any case. The human body will introduce some error even on a perfect surface.
@@kyle_noseworthy: Tough times indeed. People don't see comments like mine as advice anymore. They see only criticism. You are right about the slight convex being no issue in the real world of knife usage... but I will caution you, this is not the real world... this is the internet... where the majority of people viewing knife making videos are knife snobs and will grade your work based on some computer generated, CNC perfection. I personally convex all of my bevels, so that mere humans can sharpen the edge effectively and easily, without feeling guilty over "altering perfection".
You're a master of freehand sharpening. Man, I have a hard time with that. Great video.
Awesome job and great narration.
Good video man. Same process I usually use when I have the time.
A little patience has a big pay off.
I certainly does! Thanks bud!
Great video. I have a Bahco 2444 which I'm relatively sure is a Mora, and I've used it quite a bit so it's in need of sharpening. I'm glad I didn't put a micro bevel on it before watching this.
Really useful video, particularly where you incorporate sandpapers with the whetstone. A few tips on how to keep the correct angle as you rotate the knife towards the tip would be helpful. It's probably one of those feel/experience things - I guess I could sacrifice a Mora 511 to learning how to get this right!
Hey Chris! Thanks for watching. I try my best to make these videos as educational as possible, but I have released so many sharpening videos that I now sometimes exclude pieces of info as to not be monotonous. I have mentioned angles in several videos, including a video where I explained geometry using a whiteboard and drawings. Its a difficult balance, trying to teach new-comers, but also trying to progress with long-term viewers who have seen my previous content. :-)
Thanks Kyle - I totally understand the balance issue! I've only just found your channel and have subscribed and will go back to find the videos that deal with the angles. Looking forward to it :-)
Excellent Chris! Glad to have you here my friend. Please comment and ask questions as you feel!
I have a Mora that I regrettably have drawn through a double sided ceramic sharpener. However, I do have DMT's in 400, 600 and 1000 grit that should make short work to regain the original Scandi grind. Nice video, if I could give it more than one thumb up I would.
thanks Ryan! I really appreciate that bud. I'll eventually invest in a set of DMT's, I would say, but my experience with them so far is that they tend to lose effectiveness quickly. They wear out!
Kyle Noseworthy - Weiderfan I thought my DMT stones wore out quickly too, HOWEVER, they continue to be very effective at removing material. I think that the stones are actually much coarser than advertised when they are new. Possibly due to the manufacturing process? Seems like they loose their rough new feel quickly and "settle in" to a more truly imbedded grit, smoother feel. I sharpen multiple knives on a weekly basis with mine, had the same set for a year now and even the xx fine which feels smooth as glass to the touch turns black with blade steel every time I use it.
Like Nathan said DMTs start out much rougher than their actual grit because of something like extra diamonds stuck to the real grit diamonds embedded in the stone. Ive had a set of DMTs for a few years and ive sharpend lots of knives on them and I also have used them to flatten both waterstones and an india stone they still work great!
Also could you be able to show a little more of your technique for sharpening the knife? I have a mora and ended up putting a bit of a microbevel or convex on the front half of the knife.
ceramic isn't to bad. I'd just be skeptical that its actually the right angle. Its the carbide ones I'd steer clear of since they just tear metal off the edge, giving a really rough nasty edge, and also taking away an absurd amount of metal for the edge they achieve.
I wear down diamond stones by sharpening my axes with them first. From what I've head(could be wrong), the diamonds are just more aggressive till you wear them down. I really only use diamond for creating the bevel, removing chips, or otherwise removing a lot of material. Otherwise I tend to use arkansas or whet stones.
Cool seeing a video with minimalist gear getting thing real sharp, it's not all about the gear!!
very nice job! i would have liked seeing the polished surface directly after the 6000 grid before stropping. because in find it hard to get an even finish at fine hard stones on broad surfaces like scandi blades. espacially at the curved part. do you have any advice to get rid of this problem?
I sharpen on sandpaper.
Having the paper on a sanding block that has those metal spring clips.
Works perfect.
In one hand the Mora the other the sanding block.
You can even do that watching tv 😁.
The softer backing on that type of sanding block has a rubber type material, which results in a nice slight convex edge, which is a little stronger than the totally straight scandi edge.
You will never have those uneven issues with the sandpaper with that rubber backing. The whole scandi bevel gets evenly worked.
I attach files onto a pole and put the pole through a hook screw that i screw into on my bench. Then fix my knife down to a portable bench a bit lower than my bench. The file stays at a perfect angle. You can even get water stones on sticks but I do that bit by hand. It works great on axes too
Beautiful result! I'm curious, when sharpening one side and then the other as opposed to going back and forth, are you concerned about making the cutting edge uneven at all? Iv wanted to try it but I'm worried about the edge becoming lopsided because it's tough to keep count on exactly how many passes have been done on each side. Thanks!
I bought a used Mora Companion Heavy Duty with a secondary-beveled, dull edge and made it a true scandi that drops all hair in one slice finishing on a 600 grit ceramic stone. No need to mirror polish
how much did it cost used? as they're only 10-15 new
Cool sandpaper on the stone trick. I'll be using that! Im gonna have to see to my mora as well. Man that polish is awesome!
Thanks man! Been using it for awhile as a saving on my other tools. Quite effective. A fresh polish is so captivating isn't it?! haha I feel like one of those birds who are obsessed with "shiny"!
YES I can see the chips and rolls,half the steel will be gone before you get it sharp.Ruining a. knife 101.
Dude that is amazing. Thanks for sharing. Masterclass.
Did the same thing to my tops Brakimo, worth it, because now it's much easier to maintain the edge.
Amazing mirror finish!
Something that puzzles me, a total novice - you are trying to maintain a consistent angle, whether to sharpen Scandi or a micro bevel, right?
I first saw the issue around 8:31. You are working the knife towards the point, sort of taking the bend, but you seem to raise your hand just before you change direction again, near the point. Doesn't this raise the angle you make and tend to round, or at least steepen your bevel? Thank you
Do you apply pressure on the push and pull strokes? Or only when the blade is facing you and being pushed away from you, or vice versa etc?
Really nice finish!
thanks!
Mora makes fine knives. Even the few dollar "tool knives" you get from them are quite decent considering the ultra low price point. 20-50 bucks and you're set for years, even decades with proper care.
2nd video I watched from you. Was kinda paying attention,then I looked up & saw that drawer liner. I began using under my stone about 27yrs ago. But I was pleasantly surprised to see that red anti slide material (mines black now.was green)lol
Very patient work, now I’ll feel like a hack every time I attempt to sharpen a knife :)
You have motivated me to check my Mora knives and I notice that stropping sessions have caused a slight secondary bevel and will cease that practice. Thanks for the enlightenment, however I'm struggling a bit to transition from the body to the tip and maintain the same angle and pressure during sharpening. Do you have any suggestions?
I had a carbonsteel mora of this very kind a couple of years ago and i did put on a true scandinavian grind, without the micro bevel. It din't work at all. All of the sudden it was extremly prone to deformation and to some degree chipping of the edge. There was not enough beef left to support the edge. Maybe the stainless steel variants can handle it, the carbonsteel one i had could not at all. So be aware of that.
I complete regrind where one puts a steeper angle on the knife would work of course.
Well done, Sir. I have this knife, as well as the Bushcraft Black. Both are excellent for the money.
Both are indeed excellent! Thanks my friend!
That is a sharp knife. Good job !!
Yea , they should come like that from the factory ! :) it makes a good knife even better ! :)
@Kyle The video runtime is 13:41. How long did the entire session take from start to finish in realtime?
Hey Kyle, how are you? What is the function of the micro bevel? Why would want it, or remove it? My guess is it will be sharper without it but gets dull easier? Is that correct?
Well done as usual Sir! Love that polish!
Thanks Woodswalker! I appreciate it!
Thank you mate, great videos!
Hi, i am a boy scout and i really only use my knife (a mora)on camping trips, which are every few months. Because of this, i really haven't sharpened at all. Now i need to sharpen it and i dont want to spend ~$100 on stones that I'm rarely going to use, so i think sandpaper is one of by best options. If I were to sharpen my mora with sand paper, should I attach the paper to a marble counter top, or would a flat piece of wood be good enough?
Excellent job!
As an Ontarian I could listen to that Newfoundland accent all day. Beautiful work as always Kyle! How did you do the spine?
You can use the coarse sandpaper to square off the spine. Just place it on a flat service and go to town.
Great looking knife, great video, Thanks. I learned how to sharpen 50 year ago, ,, ,I can sharpen almost anything, but some Moras just don't get sharp [ some do ] , I can barely cut paper. I have used water stones, (in progression), Whashita, Ark, then Black Ark, , stropped with and without compounds. I really don't want to blame the steel, but Are some of these possibly seconds (E-bay, discount priced, improperly fired )? Open for anyone to respond. Thank you. None of these knives ever left the house, I never did a micro bevel on any of them.
Good job.
Man that looked crazy sharp on the arm hair. Wow.
Proper bloody good job, #KyleNoseworthy!
So, please tell me...
I have a Morakniv #Kansbol knife. How much would it cost to have it enhanced to a finely polished surface? And what do you charge for the job, as well?
Whats the level of sharpness you can expect from a new Mora Heavy Duty Companion (from 1 to 10) straight out of the box ?Kyle?
my problem was thinking i needed a burr like on other edges(convex) i niticed you went as cose to the apex as posiible without actually hitting it , 100 grit , and then got closer to apex as you went up on grit, have king you have and will try the 200 grit paper thanks
My friend told me if i pull backwards a skandinav mora knife on a sandpaper it will be convex edge. True or false? Thx.
the ol' knife fighters alopecia .... nice job !
Thanks for doing this, very kind of you!
Thanks for watching Thom!
Great work. I know this video is a few years old but I was wondering if you could post the amount of time you spent in this blade. Thanks.
If you just want to polish a knife would you just start out at like 1000, and go up from there, or start lower? Thanks for the vid!
Depends on the edge of the knife before sharpening, but yes you could definitely start at 1k. It would just take longer if the knife is full beforehand.
Great video. I'm about to sharpen my first scandi on my stones. Got into free hand a few months ago and now have all my stones! Just got my mora bushcraft black in and to say the least its not very sharp. I planned on sharpening it anyways and I also noticed they even put a tiny microbevel on the black. This video will help for sure, I was especially looking for some tips on the tip lol. Just one thing about your video, next time you should put the camera somewhere where we can see the entire knife while sharpening instead of your left hand blocking all the action! I think I have the gist of it now though, thanks!
Do these knifes come with a micro bevel or did someone sharpen this one wrong? And if they come with it, why do they do it? There has to be some advantage to it then.