K&T End Bell Repairs
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- This video shows the machine work to repair the two end bells off the electric motor out of the K&T milling machine. I'll use the bore and sleeve technique.
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I have been working at SKF in Sweden for 16 years! Nice seeing you using our quality parts! 😍
Everyone says people of your skill and experience and machining prowess are rare. It's true. However People of your skill and experience and machining prowess who have the will and drive and ability to make content and share it with us is far more rare. Thank you
I like all your videos, but love this series. I am a mechanic in the HVAC shop of the university physical plant here in Huntington WV, and I do all the pump rebuilding. This is beyond the scope of our shop (I do seal and bearing replacement only) but I have previous machine shop experience and really enjoy seeing how pump and motor repairs should be done if we had the equipment. Makes me reminisce about the past.
Thanks!
I work as a machinist/ mechanic/ armature winder in an electric motor repair shop. This is what I do every day. But here I am, watching this video anyways. Maybe I'll pick up a tip or two.
I watch other machinist channels because I’m always learning, everyday!
You make a 4 jaw look so easy! No wonder your one of the best in the 4 jaw challenge. Good job Adam.
Thanks for another great video, Adam. This one was just in time... I've got an upcoming project in the shop that was frustrating me when trying to devise a holding method. The way that you held those end bells will work perfectly. It's a privilege to be able to sit in your "classroom". Best wishes to you and yours!
Im no machinist, heck I've never even seen a lathe before, but I really love watching your videos.
I was always afraid to use my 4jaw, but after watching you I bought some dial gauges. It takes me longer than you but I eventually get there. Thank you for your video's...Hal
Adam, thanks so much for this and all of your videos. I'm not a machinist, but watching your videos gives me a good grounding on how things are put together... more to the point, how things are SUPPOSED to fit and be put together.
Had a 56C flange motor lock up the end bearing last week. Cleaned the bearing bore, smeared in some steel epoxy and the next day I bored it out. Bets are on if it will last until I retire next may. Love your youtubes.
It will probably last a lot longer than that
Great video. Very cool of you to help out someone learning about machining, and trying to get in on a limited budget.
Great job Adam. Always fun watching a worn out piece being made new again.
You sir for some one as young as you are carry on the craftsmanship and and self pride in making sure that the end results are as good if not better then original this is a continuation of the teachings from your dad granddad and those others that could see themselves in you , it's a shame that you have no one to pass on the skills and dedication that is so sadly lacking today , keep up the good work
No one to pass it on to?
Yeah, just ignore some 200 000 subscribers of which a large portion feels exactly the same way as you do.
Let me tell you there are plenty of young people getting their hands dirty doing good work. It's not because you don't see them that they're not there.
We just don't do things like they used to be done. The world is changing and people need to change with it, including the craftsmen.
𝖘 𝖍 𝖎 𝖗 𝖔 Hi yes I totally agree with what you say I meant no disrespect to our younger generation , what I really meant is that there is a very large percentage of young people who don't want to continue the old ways in machining , whatever the material and yes we the older generation do need to keep up with our evolving workplace , so thanks for your input
@@shiro-r4m He's talking in general. Young kids getting into trades, especially intelligent ones that weren't forced into trades, has sharply declined. There's no refuting it. Kids don't say they want to grow up to be a trades worker.
I really like the way you take your time to indicate and get the tolerances and measurements correct
To anyone who isn’t a machinist, there’s something oddly satisfying about watching someone or even myself dial something in that precise. Watching Adam do it is amazing how well and fast he does it.
I think it is awesome that you are using your grandfather's tools. I have some of my dad's stuff, and enjoy using it. BTW - for shrink fit of an aluminum housing a GoodWill store electric frying pan gives you good controllable heat for the motor end, and toss the ring in the freezer. My father used to put cylinder liners in the deep freeze overnight before installing.
Just spent over 12 hours in work cad/cam 5axis CNC and will spend hours watching videos like this and still enjoy it. We have a few 3axis heidenhain machines that I use as sort of manual machines just to make stuff for fun. Love my job, love the videos and love engineering.
i love how u act like u are just a guy your garage having fun and teaching us you tubers what u love to do at your best, u also dont shove the subscribe and like button crap too. its like im actually hang out with u in person feel real!!!! nice job Adam do what u do best u are killing it out here in you tube land
Not only are these excellent machining videos, these are just excellent how-to videos in general. I love how you explain your process, and even though I don't ever see myself doing any kind of work like this, I feel like I probably could just by watching this. Great job, Adam.
Thank you for your TH-cam content. It reminds me of watching my dad at work in the machine shop some 55 years ago.
Thanks again and God Bless.
Spray welding is what brought me to your channel years ago when you first showed it. Enjoyed all the content since and looking forward to some more hot sparks.
I just love to bombard my mind with resourceful videos like this one. Good thing This old Tony brought me here 😁😁😁
Adam you are the King of indicating.
By the way, it won't be me saying anything negative about how you polished the housing bore, actually I compliment you on using a small piece of emery cloth so you wouldn't catch a finger or hurt yourself. I always like how you go about your work. ATB
Seem to be a very thin wall at the push in fit . Possibly help to put the sleeve in the freezer overnight. Love your style and work well done .
this was an awesome video. i recently modified a 6.5HP motor for my compressor and a lot of this info would've been super helpful had i seen it. I had to extend the shaft, so i used a few techniques you'd shown for shaft repair in a previous video; such as using a stepped shoulder on the extension that basically sleeves into the existing shaft. i drilled the shaft, then used an end mill to get a flat bottom in the shaft. i chamfered the ends, then welded them up and turned it down to size. the motor is now running my custom build air compressor.
I'm learning so much! Have the rest of the day off so think I'm gonna ABOM binge. Love that CRC!
Thanks Justin! Lots of videos to pick from!
@@Abom79 I went straight for the spray welding. You got me excited for the next vid.😁
I wouldn't miss a minute of this. It makes me feel like I am back in the shop. Thanks for another excellent video!
Amazing stuff! Always great content, enjoy learning in the shop with Adam.
Very nice Adam. I worked at large motor shop for 39 years. I can't count the number of end bells I've bored and sleeved. Did a lot of metalizing also!
great job adam. over the years i have done o few repairs like this. in our shop we would set up the bore for a slip fit on the bushing. we them used a product called loctite 35. and set the bushing with it we never removed the end bell from the lathe .it save a lot of time and we never had a failure of the locktite. this repair was actually recommended by a loctite rep.love your videos.
larry sperling i was about to ask the same thing. Could you just glue it in with the slip fit and not have to remove it? Or would you have to wait around for it to cure? Still nice work and learned another way to do it. I also never knew about those ready made sleeves.
Adam, I have to say this. I love your videos. You make this look so easy and inspire confidence. Between people like you, Mr. Pete, Keith and Keith. I can't wait to actually get a lathe.
@jacktheripped money isn't the issue, I need a house first.
Hi Adam. Im not a machinist but I really enjoy your videos. I just wait for them. Im a chemist from South Africa. Keep up the good work. Thank you
When I was in the Navy as MR , I have done a ton of these end housing . Keep up the great work.
Another expert repair at the Booth shop.
Daily job for me at my work. repairing and fixing bell ends with new sleeves. i always use soft jaws in a 3jaw chuck. lock it in there, few taps if needed and they are centered very fast. nice work!
There are a good few "bell-ends" where I work. I think the term might have a different meaning across the Atlantic here. Hahaha. Nice one .
i see what you did there haha. (my english not that good hehe)
That cast sleeve is a great trick, saves over half the work on a job of that class....Dave
Excellent video Adam. Looking forward to seeing the spray welding, that amazes me.
Hi Adam, I will bet that when you are finished the motor will just be so much more quiet! Less noise is a good thing!! Lookin good slim, keep at it!!!
Adam, I use to work in a motor shop almost 20 years ago,3 phase motor winder, and you put a lot more care into installing the insert then those machinist did. They would bore it out so they could tap it in while it was still chucked up in the lathe then they would check it with an indicator then cut it to size. They hardly ever used a back plate either so you would hear "oh SHIT" quite often lol
Great video Adam! It's very interesting to see how you mount and indicate the end bells.
What I have been seeing lately in motors is rather than a skillful correct fit is a liberal use of loctite. Glad to see someone doing things right. Thanks for posting.
Adam, thanks for your videos. Im taking the leap and hsve purchased a 1950 Monarch 18"x42" CY, at least thats what the listing stated. It is fron a closed Dana plant in Kentucky. I pick it up this week.
You have inspired me to move forward on a dream of mine. I look forward to start refurbishing the lathe. Your videos are a blessing.
William
Awesome! Congrats!
I love machining and fabricating. It's my favourite by a garden mile 😊
20:30 That's what she said
really love your videos and watch them from start to finish. I need to get setup with a bigger lathe and mill to work on repairing the old construction equipment i have.
that´s, what i call "professional"! great Work!
PERFECT FIT !.. great job Adam .. I love the spray welder , Can't wait man.. ENJOYED !!
Adam truly impressive a man as young as you and your work it's like you been doing this for over 50 years your father and grandpa's extremely proud of you I just love watching your channel thanks son
Great video. That old sleeve came out right on cue. Shame about the occlusion in the casting. If the end bell is to break, it'll be from around there.
Looking forward to the spray buildup of the shaft.
A pleasure to watch your precision methodology.
A job well done as usual. That rotor's seen a rough time I'd say. Thanks for the video.
Dude you got every cool tool there is. I love that adapter for that plate to fit up on the lathe.
Great vid. This is the industry I work in.
Nice watching you do your work. Definitely can tell you did a bunch of them in your dad’s shop and work.
Ryan, they were a weekly job for us, in all different sizes.
I am looking forward to see your spray welding technique
Got to love green locktite I use it for stud mounts. Like my table lock repair
Not sure how often you run into issues of voids in casted materials. But, there is a 2 part epoxy we use in the aviation industry that can be machined once set up. Take a look Loc-tite or Henkle 9309. It comes in a qt or a 50 gram packet. We use it to fill voids in honeycomb material, especially in our rotor blades.
As always very good video I especiallly like the care you take in mounting fixture and work piece to the lathe. Look like the rotor had seen somthing go thru those end pieces as one look particuly bent.
Good job. 👍I’ve done hundreds of these motor end shields , the only thing I do different is after glueing the sleeve in, it then gets “Dutch keyed” by either 2 or 3 usually m4 grub screws before finish boring, as sleeves can come out, The Electrical Eng. company who supply the work will not accept without Dutch key .
Great video Abom...I however do not understand why this little electric motor is worth all that trouble. Considering the expected unbalance due to damaged fins.
It would be a quality motor. The dia of the fins circle is small and the damage on them won't contribute to any imbalance on rotation.
You mention not butting the fixture plate up against the jaws, to make it easier to adjust your face runout. Now, when I did this kind of work, I did put it up against the jaws, and if it needed to be bumped out from the chuck, I just stuck a drift behind the workpiece and tapped on that, or I'd stick a steel bar behind it, lever it out, and tap on the free end.
I learn something new every week... nice job... looking forward to the spray welding... and machining..
Thanks Adam. I learn a lot watching your projects. May try to get down and meet you in December.
Can’t help but think you missed a trick not calling it “Bell End Repairs” or more likely I’m just childish!
Great job as always and really good useful info for newbies like me, thank you and can’t wait to see the rest of the rebuild.
Us in the states don't use that terminology. Most people in th States have no idea what u would be trying to say.
Andrew Delashaw well that makes sense then, so I’m childish and talking foreign haha thanks for he heads up
They'd figure it out.
Great to see this type of machining video once more.
Adam,
Maybe show the difference in the fit on a drop piece that has been bored .001 over what you hit. This might be helpful in illustrating why its important to hit the number required. Great video BTW!!!
Maybe we can hear it from Adam himself.. I'd hope so!!!
It's not much different than the end bell that he showed that was down, it just rocks less, but it still spins and has a little rock when you try it.
i am no expert in electrical motors but i believe some of them have coils in the rotor. If the spray weld sinks a lot of heat into the motor it might get the isolating lacquer to melt or something. you might want to look into that before you start the repair. as always your work is top-notch!
Eirik thats why he’s spray welding to control heat evenly. Also the lacquer should burn before it melts.
For AC 3 Phase motors most are squirrel cage designs where the copper coils are in the stator, not the rotor. The rotor is simply steel laminations.
Eirik, What warcube91 said is correct - the rotor is basically a bunch of thin, round iron plates with notches in the edge. They are pressed onto the shaft against one of the aluminum end pieces with the fins, and then the other end piece is pressed on. Running through the notches of the laminate plates are aluminum 'shorting bars' that are connected to each end piece. The shorting bars are at a slight angle to the axis. All the wiring in a three phase induction motor with squirrel cage rotor is in the stator. The coils in the stator induce a current in the rotor that travels down the shorting bars creating a magnetic field that reacts to the stator magnetic field to make the rotor turn.
The biggest danger of heating the rotor shaft is when you don't heat it evenly. Pouring too much heat into one side of the shaft and not the other can actually bend the shaft. That's why he'll probably have it spinning the whole time he does his pre-heat of the shaft before spray welding.
Love seeing that Nashua, NH(my state) on Arbor press. I've done work at Greenerd. Also enjoy these videos. Haven't done that kind of work since about 30 years ago. Remember enjoying the work but getting paid very little and getting bitched at a bunch by foreman. Things like "what's taking so long" and "couldn't you have done this instead of that?" However long it took, my "comeback rate" was nearly zero. Overall learned a lot in the machine shop.
Learned a lot. I always wondered how those were repaired.
Even in machining it works to get a bigger hammer. 👍. Great content Really enjoyed the use of that heavy backing plate so it could be properly centered to be machined.
It is usually better to take light swings with a heavier hammer than swinging hard with a lighter hammer.
Another damn fine video. Ive learned so much from watching your videos
Happy to say my end bell is in good shape.
I can watch all day ! Makes me feel like I am still doing it. See you next round !
Great video as alwsys Adam. Looks like someone has been wallering on the cooling fins of that rotor man. Seems the mill had a good life but some maintenance guys took to beating on the drive system over its time. At least they didn't gloop her up with bearing fit.
Another very enjoyable video as usual. Thank you.
Can you show us in the next video how you balance the rotor and straighten the cooling fins on the rotor?
If you had inadvertently overbored the endbell, what would your response have been? Do you need to cut out the sleeve and replace it? Or is there some reasonable way to add metal that wouldn't add two weeks of shipping time and extra $$($?) to the end result?
Did you buy spare sleeves for replacements/just in case of a miss?
If I was in a hurry I’d have to bore the sleeve out and make my own sleeve. Otherwise order another one.
Oh wow, that would have been the worst, especially considering how close any possible miss could have been. To lose weeks of time and money for something that small...
gmofftarki we always make the sleeves , doesn’t take long ,
Great Video although I did make a double take reading the title ( probably a british thing). It must be great having a large lathe. I have a small boxford CUD, I would like something bigger but there’s only so much room to spare, especially as my machines are sharing with a 53 Chevy Truck. Looking good keep up the good works.
Mr. Ouija Two great nations separated by a common language!
I like to see you use two dial indicators at the same time to check the run out and the face next time
Wish i had the knowledge you do, it seems you can repair almost anything with your knowledge and skills. Thats something no one can ever take from you.
Any idea why the shafts and housing where so goofed up?
Loved this one. Great details and tips. Thanks
A tip for cooling sleeves just put it the freezer for about 4 hours or so
Really enjoying these videos. I learn something new every time. The math is killer!
My favorite hammer. Snap-On with replaceable heads.
My favorite is a Snap On Double Brass
Still watching/admiring videos.
excited for the upcoming spray welding :)
Love it when a plan comes together
Great seeing how this job is done right. Appreciate it. Thanks.
Another nice job Abom!
Really liked this one. I work on a lot of motors and pumps so this hit close to home. Where did you get the bearing chart?
that was beautiful, Adam. great video :)
Adam, maybe you or one of your viewers can answer a question. Last night I was turning some mystery steel and I couldn’t turn the OD more than .020” depth of cut with out a grinding sound coming from the bit, it would leave a very rough surface. I don’t know what the surface feet per minute are, but speeding my 10” Logan lathe up to to the max speed helped but not much, I could get to a .025” DOC
then I would start getting chatter and a bad finish. I was playing with feed rate and increasing feed rate did help with the chatter some. I was using WNMG insert and switched to CCMT for the finish cut.
I do turn quite a bit of hot and cold rolled 1018 steel and this metal is not that grade of metal for sure. This metal was drops from a machine shop that were just the ends of bar stock that were parted off on a lathe. Im just trying to figure out why this metal acts this way when cutting. I just replaced my 3 jaw chuck with a new Sanou 6”. Ever since I replaced my 3 jaw chuck, I seem to have a lot of chatter problems. My old 3 jaw was so bad it had to be put on the shelf for good, and I’ve been using my 4 jaw for about a year. The new 3 jaw is quite a bit longer than my old chucks that were probably original to my 1945 lathe.
Sounds like really hard material or something that has pockets of hardness in it like from welds. Best advice is to try slowing the lathe down, backing off the DOC a little, and/or shortening up your tooling to stiffen it up. Maybe using a steady or follow rest if it's a thin shaft to change the harmonics. Chatter increases as you use more stickout on tools, so choking up on them usually helps. Sometimes locking the crossfeed or carriage depending what cuts you're doing helps with chatter.
If the chatter is really bad, back off the cut and clean up the chatter marks with light cuts to get back to a smooth finish. A lot of the time trying to "get under" the chatter marks in one cut makes it worse.
Adam , shouldn't you also balance the motor itself ( shaft with armature) ?
gotta get me a pair of them booth machine shop overalls!
As always, nice work Adam!
ATB, Robin
Nice Job Adam
Adam another terrific video< I learn something new from you every time! Thanks for doing this.
Thank you for sharing your expertise.
I feel the same way about using my grand dad's and my pop's tools. I'm kinna sentimental about generational tools.
When you were machining the first few cuts with the lathe, was there any 'power feed'? As it didn't look like you were feeding the cutting head into the work piece, yet it kept on cutting? (E.g. when the steel insert popped out...)
Edit: ah, I see - the 2nd 'cut' (25 mins in) indicated 'yes'...