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Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Timing Chain Kit Replacement Pt 2 of 4: Front Cover & Valve Cover Removal
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ส.ค. 2016
- These are the Tools and Parts needed for the job:
Updated Latest Ford Timing Kit-
amzn.to/3O3wtDM
2004-2014 Engines Latest Roller Followers x24-
amzn.to/3BtEHgm
2005-2014 Engines can utilize this Ford Racing Kit-
amzn.to/492DRYC
Valve Cover Gasket Set:
2004-2007-
amzn.to/2ao6KB7
2008-2014-
amzn.to/2ap9x05
Latest VCT Solenoids-
amzn.to/2aZtAo5
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt-
amzn.to/2aNQwRL
Phaser Holding Tool-
amzn.to/2aBVfpK
Roller Follower Remover Tool-
amzn.to/2aDglu5
Crankshaft Positioning Tool-
amzn.to/2ap8eOD
Cat Claw-
amzn.to/2anM8yV
Crankshaft Pulley Puller (2004-mid year 2008)-
amzn.to/2akfw3k
Crankshaft Pulley Puller (mid 2008-2014)-
amzn.to/2pHaaMH
Pneumatic Fan Wrench Kit-
amzn.to/2auxqmP
Permatex Engine Sealant-
amzn.to/2anMrtp
Lisle A/C disconnect tool-
amzn.to/2aaYpW3
5W-30 Oil I recommend-
amzn.to/2aeRdUt
Melling M360HV Oil Pump-
amzn.to/2IBcqKG
Engine Coolant needed if drained-
amzn.to/2aeR6bh
Mopar Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2anN8D7
Oil pump replacement Video-
• Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Me...
Ford 5.4L 3v Triton Engines: Roller Follower Removal and Installation Video-
• Ford 5.4L 3v Triton En...
Torque Sequence Diagrams:
Valve Covers 2004-2007: 89 inch lbs
LH-
drive.google.c...
RH-
drive.google.c...
Valve Covers 2008-2014: 89 inch lbs
LH-
drive.google.c...
RH-
drive.google.c...
Front Cover Sealant Points-
drive.google.c...
Front Cover Sequence-
drive.google.c...
LH RH Camshaft Sequence: 89 inch lbs
drive.google.c...
5.4L 3v Timing Chain Kit Replacement Series:
Part 1- • Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Ti...
Part 2- • Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Ti...
Part 3- • Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Ti...
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/ho...
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
amzn.to/2GC6dBj
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
My Automotive Repair Shop BSG Automotive-
www.bsgautomoti...
Catch up with us on-
Facebook: / fordtechmakuloco
Twitter: / fordtechmak
Instagram: / fordtechmakuloco
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
These are the Tools and Parts needed for the job:
Updated Latest Ford Timing Kit-
amzn.to/3O3wtDM
2004-2014 Engines Latest Roller Followers x24-
amzn.to/3BtEHgm
2005-2014 Engines can utilize this Ford Racing Kit-
amzn.to/492DRYC
Valve Cover Gasket Set:
2004-2007-
amzn.to/2ao6KB7
2008-2014-
amzn.to/2ap9x05
Latest VCT Solenoids-
amzn.to/2aZtAo5
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt-
amzn.to/2aNQwRL
Phaser Holding Tool-
amzn.to/2aBVfpK
Roller Follower Remover Tool-
amzn.to/2aDglu5
Crankshaft Positioning Tool-
amzn.to/2ap8eOD
Cat Claw-
amzn.to/2anM8yV
Crankshaft Pulley Puller (2004-mid year 2008)-
amzn.to/2akfw3k
Crankshaft Pulley Puller (mid 2008-2014)-
amzn.to/2pHaaMH
Pneumatic Fan Wrench Kit-
amzn.to/2auxqmP
Permatex Engine Sealant-
amzn.to/2anMrtp
Lisle A/C disconnect tool-
amzn.to/2aaYpW3
5W-30 Oil I recommend-
amzn.to/2aeRdUt
Melling M360HV Oil Pump-
amzn.to/2IBcqKG
Engine Coolant needed if drained-
amzn.to/2aeR6bh
Mopar Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2anN8D7
Oil pump replacement Video-
th-cam.com/video/ulEJfcQ7HhA/w-d-xo.html
Ford 5.4L 3v Triton Engines: Roller Follower Removal and Installation Video-
th-cam.com/video/jdAUeVRBNA8/w-d-xo.html
Torque Sequence Diagrams:
Valve Covers 2004-2007: 89 inch lbs
LH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949YkFXTmxFbTNVcXc/view?usp=sharing
RH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949akIteHRIcWhvVDQ/view?usp=sharing
Valve Covers 2008-2014: 89 inch lbs
LH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949Tno0czVseFh2WjA/view?usp=sharing
RH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949WWRHVVg4ZFN5SWM/view?usp=sharing
Front Cover Sealant Points-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949Rkx5SEk0MndaMkk/view?usp=sharing
Front Cover Sequence-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949RUdfR1hfVHhlWWM/view?usp=sharing
LH RH Camshaft Sequence: 89 inch lbs
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949UjdDN3BybWtsejg/view?usp=sharing
5.4L 3v Timing Chain Kit Replacement Series:
Part 1- th-cam.com/video/nQVKnd2r-ww/w-d-xo.html
Part 2- th-cam.com/video/u6wkyLEeUgg/w-d-xo.html
Part 3- th-cam.com/video/mjBPC10kjKA/w-d-xo.html
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
amzn.to/2GC6dBj
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
FordTechMakuloco you are great
So say if I took everything off to get to the oil pump and oil pump is in great condition do I still have to reset the timing even though all I did was takeoff the chains and the timing goesguards
* guards
Please crankshaft and camshaft full timing mark sent thank you Sir
FordTechMakuloco i need your help please give me a call please 7163102571
You've got me through this motor now I'm doing it again 8 years later. Just wanted you to know how much you are appreciated couldn't do it without you. Mine is the 06 F150 the passenger side I don't remember it being so tough to pull the valve cover. Noticed you skipped it in your video. I think you are a AAA mechanic and again thank you for your videos. Would like to meet you someday. Keep up the good work............. Dan Pro
Getting ready to do this as soon as I graduate from Fordtechmakuloco U. I saw another video of a guy who used a piece of cardboard to draw a diagram of the front cover, every time he took a bolt out he stuck it in the corresponding spot on the cardboard. Great idea to keep everything in the right place. Thanks for the great videos Professor!
Going to do the same aswell brother! I have a question and not sure if you will know the answer but I’ll ask anyways, when I inspect the cam caps if there is wear to the point that it catches my nail should I just do a phaser delete because of the reduced oil pressure because of clearances or should I just go ahead and do it anyway?
Working on this job and watching the videos for about the 4th time as I'm actually doing the work. The fan clutch came loose with about 5 strikes with a 3 pound sledge to the handle of a pipe wrench. If I was doing this all the time I'd buy one of those Lisle pneumatic ones but for those of us who may only do this once - or once in a while - the pipe wrench and hammer gets it done. Thanks so much for putting this series together!
that's helpful, I was considering the tool but it's over a hundred bucks and I hope I only do this once.
I used the pipe wrench,(as I have done on other cars) on this job, I put a 10mm wrench on the water pump pulley bolt to offset the force of the pipe wrench, and it cam off pretty easy.
Heads up, I just did this job on my '07 F-150 and the fan clutch wrench needed was a 47mm. I have the 36mm water pump shaft, btw, vice the 30mm.I was only able to complete this job thanks to these videos. Very impressed with the time and energy spent on this series.
This videos are absolutely vital to this job being done correctly. Just finishing mine up but couldn’t have down without these. Thank you FordTechMakuloco!
Your video's are amazing. I watched all 4 and then I did the full change. Oil pump, timing chains, guides, tensioners, VCT and phazers. The one thing I skipped was removing the tappets. The otc tool works great for helping getting everythinbg aligned and a set of vice grips between the lobes of the cams helps give you piece of mine if your worrined about the cams jumping and hitting valves. The biggest thing is to loosen everything while its still together. I was able to move the cams with the vice grips and I never felt like the cams were going to jump or move. The vice grips really just helped me move the cams slightly when putting the timing chains on while getting the tensioners in place. Did not even leave a scratch on the cams.The vice grips where a little to wide so I took a grinder and thinned them up so they would fit safely. I took every thing apart without the gear wrenches but I went and picked myself up a set when I started putting it back together. Unfortunately the 8 mm did not come with the set and had to be special ordered so I did not have it to help with the oil pump. That was a major pain with out the gear wrench. I love the flex The gear wrenches. I should of bought those years ago. Thanks again for all your time. I fired up my truck this evening for the first time. No more noise. I had a broken chain guide.. Thankfully it did not break in a million pieces and all the broken parts were visable. 215.000 miles.2004 F150 5.4L Lariet.
These vids are awesome.I seen so many mechanics just talk down on the 5.4 3v.But you are a good mechanic.No complaining or winning about Ford or manufacturers.Wish there was more mechanics out there like you
How much do you charge for changing chains, they charge me 4000 I think it's too much
One more thing this guy works his butt off to provide these videos which is not an easy job making them if you have anything bad to say you should just keep it to yourself. Don't see the ones there are complaining making their own videos so if you can't say good things don't say anything at all
I appreciate you very much for this long and very detailed video because I am having this done right now as we speak. On my Ford expedition 2006. My mechanic sent me this so I can know what he is doing and having to deal with because I was wondering why he had my truck so long . Thank you
When you stuff rags in the head when removing the rocker gasket, soak the rags in oil..make em dripping wet with oil.. Any dirt that falls into the rag will stick and not fall off..
Comments like Yours is exactly why I view comments! Thank You B0$$
Oh yeah lets soak 8 rags in oil so they are useless after completing the job. You don’t pay the unifirst bill, that’s obvious.
@@BFT88 I bet you don't either
That's a solid idea
@@BFT88old rags are cheap AF compared to the cost of the parts going into this job.
Let me tell you right now, this guy knows his shit! Im subscribed to the end my friend.
I don many Ford Triton engines, but You have very good explanatory skills as well. Very good video. Your hands and brain working in one unison !
Respect for such Mechanics !
for those of you having trouble getting the harmonic balancer bolt out use a breaker bar and rest it on the frame lay something on it like a rug so you don't damage your radiator and crank the starter you only want to tap it and it should break it free that's what I did it took 4 trys but it works
What I do is get a shallow card board box and draw the shape of the timing cover and mark where the bolts go. Punch holes in cardboard drawing of timing cover.... then put the bolts in holes in drawing on cardboard so you don't forget where each length of bolt goes and thread side
Did my F150 with these videos and Im now 50k miles in and still running strong! Thanks Ford Tech!
How long did it take you?
I can’t really say because I would just work on it little by little in my spare time. At least 2 weeks. Maybe 20 hours of labor.
I can’t really say because I would just work on it little by little in my spare time. At least 2 weeks. Maybe 20 hours of labor.
I can’t really say because I would just work on it little by little in my spare time. At least 2 weeks. Maybe 20 hours of labor.
I can’t really say because I would just work on it little by little in my spare time. At least 2 weeks. Maybe 20 hours of labor.
Was looking for a video showing how to get crankshaft pulley off a Ford engine and was so glad when I found this video series! I've searched youtube for days and everybody has videos for everything except this style of balancer. Keep doing what you do, it's really good when you show the extra detail about using the tools with the different parts. And I was wondering about using the impact throughout the removal and installation process for the crankshaft. U are my go to Ford specialist!
Thank you for posting this series - we have this god forsaken engine in Australia in the BA-BF Fairmont/Fairlane/G220/G8 and LTD....Australian owners are reporting high kilometers on these engines, so even if the timing chain guides etc are a pain in the butt, the engine still seems quite durable and worth fixing. Cheers
A man’s got to know his limitations. I’m taking my expedition into the shop. I only need to make it to video 2. Respect for those who successfully pulled this off.
You really make this look like many can perform this. I am banking on it myself. I have an 06 that just started the Form tick. It has 138k on it. I bought this 6 months ago and it really is a well kept truck so well worth the TLC needed.I know this video is old but wow you really know your shit. Cant imagine what a job like this would cost at a mechanic but part alone for the complete timing, rollers oil pump alone is around 1500. Getting my list together and will be ordering in a few days
You really are the Boss of this.
did you do it? How did it go?
Nice Part II Brian. Nice tips for your viewers & their cell phone camera & video recorder are their best friends when it comes time to reassemble and if they kept the hardware with the components like you said they will be glad they did. I disassemble like you and it makes reassembly faster & easier.
Just took off the power steering pump on my '06 Expedition while doing the timing job. I clamped off that hose that comes down from the reservoir, and just pulled it off. Gives you a TON more room to access those top bolts.
A side note: the 2005 F-150, you almost have to remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator to lift out the fan shroud.😁 I tries everything and gave in. BTW, you're video series on this job is a God-send. Thanks from the bottom of my heart!😊
You can easily remove the fan shroud on all f-150 models with this engine I do it everyday.
The comment you made on the water pump being hard to get to, It made me chuckle. To a non mechanic like myself. 3/4 of what you do is 'hard to get to" or "really tight space" lol. Thanks for the videos as usual. I do not comment a lot but I have been watching you since you worked for ford. I hope there are still mechanics like you working at fords around the country.
This video is awesome . Im watching this 4 part serious to knock this timing cover off tomorrow if possible . I was getting overwhelmed by how hidden the valve cover is on the driver side on the f150. But following your steps I should I should be able to get to it
after changing a few the hardest job on the 3v is the power steering pump replace. those three bolts are tough to get.
I hate those things
True that! I literally had to crawl inside the fan shroud space to get leverage and torque to remove those retched things. Some ass-hat put red lock-tight on the threads.
My 2004 has 4 bolts! 2hrs 2bolts 2 to go. And no swivel heads. The most infuriating thing is that the engineers do this on purpose.
You are so awesome. You have helped me so much throughout the years. Thank you! I pray that God gives you much success.
I have to tackle this, that sagging chain has to be my problem. Threw a p0016 and it has the rattle at startup. Thanks a lot man. I will keep on watching the rest of this.
Is your rattle only on cold starts? I am having a rattle on cold starts. Noise only lasts about 1-2 seconds
Animal House yes only on cold starts. I fixed it, it was the chain tensioner. Stupid plastic crap designs.
@@cesar9496 Oh man, so you had to go through all of this just to replace it? How long did it take you? I'm dreading having to do this!
Animal House yes you do, I replaced the whole timing set. Might as well since you have to open it all up. Took me 2 days. Just in parts I spend about 1200. You can just do the tensioner, but those cam phasers depending on your mileage most likely be out.
@@cesar9496 sorry I keep bothering you. Taking everything apart doesn't scare me.. getting the timing wrong is what makes me nervous. Is it pretty cut and dry if you follow the video? Also did you replace the crankshaft pulley with a new one?
AND IF YOUR IN A SNOW CLIMATE PLEASE ORDER NEW VALVE COVER BOLTS AND HARDWARE BECAUSE THEY WILL ALL BE ROTTED AND MAY STRIP THE HEADS OFF! TRY TO ORDER STAINLESS BOLTS! GREAT VIDEO BRO KEEP THEM COMING!
The Fel-Pro timing cover gasket set has all new silicone rubber seals in it for the bolts. The bolts are specific for this application, I would not substitute them.
@fordtechmakuloco hands down the best tech on youtube, Im sure that somebody with very basic mechanical skills could follow along and complete their own services/repairs..Definitely saved my ass a few times lol
I haven't turned a wrench professionally since 2001. I gotta tell ya...I don't miss it. Modern cars are way beyond skillset.
I really need to do this to my 04 f150. I have the clatter on start up and the phaser knock. Thanks for putting out these videos. They will be referenced a lot when I decide to actually do it.
The best procedural video ever when it comes to FORDS.. Thanks a lot. Can't wait till part 3 & 4. Thanks again. I badly needed this to work on my 2010 F250 super duty.
Man, UR a BadAss for doin this. Thank You
can't wait for part 3 and 4 man. I'm glad I've waited this long to do my timing kit so I could reference this video. you're the man.
I’m not a mechanic and I don’t even own a ford , but I like watching these videos .
Awesome videos. I have been watching and learning on how to replace the Cam Phazers. During the change out, I noticed a TC guide floating around on the right side. Now I need to remove the FC and replace those components with a oil pump since I am there. I'm heading into an area that do not have experience. Thanks for the help!
9:30 I used a screwdriver, and pried against the water pump bolts and spun it. Worked great!
the 2010 has a slotted crank,I just used half inch nuts and bolts and washers.
5:40
WD-40, a very large crescent wrench, and a pneumatic chisel...worked like a charm.
By the way, I couldn't have done it without your tutorial. Thank you
Great vid I'm starting mine on Monday 307,000 original parts runs fine just alot of cam phaser and chain noise at idle thanx for the video
How did it turn out?
Still running? How did the timing job turn out?
If you are like me and cant seem to get one of those bolts off to secure the chain on. Put your socket and ratchet on a lower bolt head with your ratchet on "tighten" put a small pipe over the ratchet handle that extends to under the upper A arm bracket bolt on driver side by wheel well. That will hold pulley in place while you slip crescent wrench over the main nut and give it a tap.
Okay!
How dd you get the RIGHT SIDE Valve cover off without removing ac dryer or intake ?
I was working on a 06 f150 i had no choice but to remove the intake !
please reply !
thanks !
This is a great tutorial. I have 1 question. I have a 2005 f150. I have everything off except the front cover and passenger side valve cover. The valve cover is not coming out. The AC lines angle into it. Do I need to discharge the lines and move them ?
Wondering if I should replace the power steering pump while I’m there
I did complete timing from start to finish in 2 days, I thought this would be hard work, but turned out it’s way better and easier then Toyota Camry timing, but I was working on 5.4 2V engine, not 3V, and I did also replaced all 16 rollers and hydraulic adjusters, I’ve bought that ridiculous valve spring compression tool for 2V engine, IT’S SUCKS!!! 3V engine compression tool is much better and safer. And I ended up not using compression tool anyway, and the reason, one of valve keepers are flew away with the speed of light somewhere! Probably it’s in other galaxy by now, instead of compression tool, I just use a plastic clip removal tool, to pop out rollers, and to install back, however, I was replacing valve springs as well, and to keep valve up, I lowered piston all the way down, then through the spark plug hole, I filled entire cylinder with 3/8” nylon rope, and then turn engine by hand, till piston with the road is holding valves up, then it’s safe to remove valve springs.
I'm doing this very same thing RIGHT NOW on my 08 f150. I've been periodically stopping to watch these videos in segments to keep pace with them. I've been a ford fan all my life, but the engineers that came up with the modular motor concept should have their asses kicked. These videos have been a big help, but I still believe ford dropped the ball when they went this rout.
I did the same thing on my ‘08. Runs great. Swapped out the plastic tensioners with the Melling cast tensioners.
The Ford engineers were morons in how they routed the oil through this Motor and by using the whole cam phaser garbage. Totally unnecessary.
amazing work on this production. thank you
The power steering pump bolts a lot easier by removing the oil filter. At least the bottom ones. Then I screw it back on once they’re out.
Hello I've watched your videos on valve train,all 4 of them at least 8 times a piece and confident I can do it on my 06 5.4 expedition the problem I'm having is that my oil pump is slowly going out on me and makes a clanking noise at the top of the motor because not enough oil pressure is getting to the top to properly lubricant but now I was wondering once neutralize the motor and put everything to TDC and am very careful can I replace the oil pump with out using the speciality tools.
Bro. Love the video. Helping me out ALOT. I’m doing this right meow. One question tho. Where can a man get some dang valve cover bolts. I’m in the rust belt and a few of the bolt heads were pretty bad. Tyvm for any info.
how many hours labour for this job is fair?
You make it look easy getting that p-steering pump off. Spent all day trying to remove mine and have to decide to put everything back together because I can't remove mine and remove the front cover. Pry bar and everything but feel like I'm going to brake it or there is a 4th bolt . My Haynes manual is confusing
I have watched all the videos I believe on 5.4 timing chain replacement. Great job on video.just what is best kit to buy. I know u said go with ford but there are alot of fakes .can ugive me a site to replace all of timing chain kit . Replacing phasres followers and lashers . Had a bad follower bad and truck has 270 000 on it . Cam look good and top looks fine. Don’t want to get junk but need to not b to pricey. Thanks again great videos I’m a female and made it even easy for me
If you are having trouble taking the fan off another good way you can take an air hammer with a chisel bit and give a quick burst or 2 on one of the edges of the nut and it should break loose
I'm about to do this myself was changing vvt solinoids and when i got valve cover loose i noticed a piece of plastic in there was the guide well part of it
Ok man. Hold on. No nuts or bolts were torqued to 800ft lbs? Also your hands are not all bloody. No wrench dents in your shop walls? Hmmm
lol I have learned patience over the years.
I do have to say thanks for the walk through but at 23:29 when it is said the there is more room in the ending compartment of the f150, there isnt. I'm working on an 04 5.4 3v with tow package l. Also I recommend removing the fan and shroud first along with the air box and throttle body.
Also my motor has no ticking or clanking it runs really quiet and smooth its just really weak and i am hoping that a rebuild will make it run stronger. thanks
Doing this right now, theme of this repair is WHO TORQUED THESE BOLTS!? KING KONG!?
I have a 2000 Ford expedition. I love it but yes it has problems and yes it is stubborn to fix but it all pays off in the end. The last thing I want to be seen driving is a chevy or a toyota truck.
Thank you bunches for doing these videos for us
Glad I took mine to the shop, but love watching. Ty Sir!
Would this be why I keep replacing my cam sensor every 6 months? My 04 f150 has 163k on it. Replaced all the sensors and it still says cam sensors.
Me too. Finally I'm gonna fix the real problem
Can you pull the pulley off the power steering pump rather than unbolt it?
Well this blows! I have a frozen lifter on exhaust valve cyl 1" and the only way to swap out with a new one is to remove the whole camm?! Or can I loosen the cap bolts enough to wiggle the lifter past the lobe and install the new one same fashion??" Thoughts ? 411 is appreciated?"
Nice shirt man. I'm a chevy and ford guy
To remove the fan I removed the belt and alternator, then clamped a vice grip onto the pulley lip so the pulley was locked in place then used a 15 inch adjustable wrench and and baby sledge. Only took 2 moderate blows until the fan came loose. Can't figure out the logic behind this design .
If I owned a triton motor I'd be changing all of these components every hundred thousand or less. I've seen a 5.4 that had such a loose chain that it was slapping the front cover and literally cut a groove into it. Which caused aluminum shavings to be spread throughout the whole entire engine causing it to be destroyed. Preventative maintenance and care is required to keep these engines reliable and on the road. Replace those timing components people, or it's going to get even more expensive, very fast!
You saved me alot of labor cost!
Is it three M8x1.25 size bolts for removing crank pulley on 2006 F-250 5.4 3V? Because I probably better run a thread chaser through it first.
Just one observation after removing both valve covers on 2011 5.4 Expedition. Considerably more varnish on driver's side than on passengers side (looks almost new w/ no varnish). Is this normal or is there an underlying problem that needs to be attended to while I have all components removed? Brian, you definitely are "The Best" at instructional videos out there!
This is perfectly normal as the pcv gases are drawn through the drivers side valve cover.
Did I miss when the idler pulleys were removed and how to get the rear passenger side valve cover bolts?
You must have a minimum of 500 ft lbs of torque rating from the pneumatic impact wrench to remove your Crankshaft pulley bolt, FYI.
I used my 450ft lbs ridgid 18v impact
I use a two foot wrench with a 2lb hammer works mint.
@@rambojackson9082 same, worked ok, just kept hitting the radiator hose lol
Used a 1/2 inch electric impact from Harbor Freight. Came off after a few cycles.
Do you need to take off the ac compressor?
You done a good job on that replace timing chain ⛓
But i love you for helping me get this far on this project
once again excellent video. you are a great teacher. any upcoming videos on the 5.0l in the 2011+ f150s?
so....two questions. 1) what are the specific differences between the 5.4l 3 valves from before the 08 year/model, and the 09-10 year/models? 2) what is your daily driver vehicle? just curious.
Please I'd really appreciate if you answer my question. If I am doing a timing job and I have to remove the camshaft after removing the first 6 rocker followers (3 per side), do I have to remove the remaining 18 one by one with the special tool? or can I just unbolt the cam holders? I know for reinstalling them I have to do it 1 by 1 with the special tool but you did not mention anyone about removing the remaining 18, just the first 6. Thanks.
realized I have 4 bolts on my 04 which requires me to remove the pulley and disc some pressure lines to get to the 4th bolt
Good video about this task. Question. Its that an interferience engine or not..??
yes it is.
OMG, from what I read I am lucky my '03 F150 went 217,000 before the chain rattled so much it sounded like a diesel that ran out of oil. I think it is time to change everything related to timing. Otherwise the engine ran like it was new.Great vid and I subscribed.
would this whole process work on my 2001 f150 lariat 5.4 4x4??
I'm Fred ...and I have 2010 Lincoln navigator... and also I have same identical exactly problem.. when I start the car cold it was fine after 20 minutes warm up and I start hearing the tick tick noise and rattling and poor idling sometimes stalling on me..
I always put my bolts in a can and mark it and bolt socket size too.
You make it look so easy 😭 im terrified of doing this and messing up or finding out its something else
My man. Thank you so much god bless you 🙏 I just did it myself. You save me a lot of money
Do u need to remover the passenger side valve cover ? I didn’t see that in the video .
Ok So I knocked the vaccuum hose about the drivers side valve cover out the back of the engine like you said not to..... what next?
Just a heads up. Use a puller on power steering pulley. Makes it a lot easier to access removal.
I can have the bolts out by the time the pulley is pressed off.
@FordTechMakuloco
If the engine timing is off by an unknown amount before starting this procedure how can I position the cams to match up base on the crank 11 and 6 position
Is it normal for the timing chains to get loose when you turn the engine? I replaced all timing components on my 04 5.4 engine. The chains were snug while I turned the engine, but after putting the followers back and turned the engine, the chains would get loose at one point but then they would get tight again as I keep turning the engine.
Totally normal.
Mine didn't rattle or anything it just died and wouldn't start back what do you think is going on with mine I've pulled the valve cover and you can touch the chain it definitely has slack do you think mine jumper time or something like that????
Do you have to pull the valve cover to do the cover,or can you loosen the cover and sneak the cove out from under the front valve cover bolts? Thank you ,greta video..
How do I remove the bottom left cover bolt that has a molded plastic electrical harness that feeds the starter. I removed the metal clamp that holds the transmission cooling lines.
Great series of videos.
For an 2007 Navigator what would be the average cost of this procedure including parts?
+ju lu $3,500 at the dealer I only charge around $1,860 or so though.
Thank you and congratulations for having such an informative channel.
+FordTechMakuloco 3500 for a motor with 200,000 miles. Shit. I'll buy a crate motor with a warranty and throw that in. Your price is still great. But wouldn't a new engine be a better choice?
Any tips on passenger side valve cover gasket. Number 10 on the RH side diagram. It a like the transmission dipstick is right in the way. And if I follow that back there is a bolt that I could undo to loosen it but it seems like it would be darn near impossible to get a wrench on it.
There are two methods: First is to pull the PS wheel well liner to get to the trans dipstick bolt (18mm). Other method (field method) is to bend the transmission dipstick tube gently to move it out of the way for the duration of the job.
What do you do when the balancer isn't drilled and tapped?
I used a gear puller on the tabs on the inside of the pulley but my gear puller wouldn't fit at first so I had to customize it by cutting out some material on all three jaws to make them fit.
I have an 2007 STX special edition that was in transition to a 4 wheel drive when I bought it. It doesn't even pull up on parts computers. It was built 4-30-07. I'm elbow deep in replacing the cam phasers that went out so I just got everything oil pump, guides etc.. I'm having one hell of a time getting the passenger side valve cover off. Its hitting the trans dip stick and some A/C lines. Is there a way to do it without messing with the A/C. I don't have any equipment to fix the a/c. P.S. Your video's have saved my A** way to make it easier for half decent shade tree mechanic!!