Great DIY video and directions and I changed out my 2001 Altima crank seal today.... You only left out one thing, ie. getting the crank pulley nut off isn't as easy as your demo! I tried my air gun and couldn't budge that nut. For those having that issue there is another TH-cam video demostrating attaching a breaker bar to the nut placing bar forward of the car on a piece of wood on the ground. Just turn the ignition key to bump the starter with out starting the car will pop the nut free! Thanks Fixyour Nissan!!!
550 Dollars, that is nuts. The job does pay 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours labor and about 60 in parts. So this job should really cost around the 200 dollar mark.
hi. what is the name of the first belt? and how many separate hoses does it uses? I thought is was supposed to be just one call serpentine belt that hooks up to everything.
Really good video I did this repair and it went really well. I had no issues with replacing both belts. However, when I started up the engine the small belt smoked and fried to pieces. So either I put it on wrong or too tight. I think I tightened it down pretty well. So I'll replace this again
O'Neal Raymond If you want to disconnect the battery you can, but you still don't want to allow the alternator to touch the housing, other wise it can damage it as well.
Anytime you change a Alternator you disconnect the battery. If you are just changing the belts, I don't normally. But if you tap the Alternator to far in, it can short and blow the main fusible link. So it would not hurt to do that.
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Hello there. I just replaced my alternator because it was overcharging my battery. Took it to autozone to test it and it was bad. My battery still overcharging, friends tell me it might take a week to adjust the battery if not to test battery to see if it the cell might got damange. Might need to replace battery. Its been 4 days since I replaced the alternator. 2 days after I did, I very lound noise started when I turn the car on if goes away when I step on gas or wait for a bit. Also if I turn the steering wheel the same sounds happened it goes away after a couple of turns. Before all this happened, there was a squeaky sound whenever I turned the ac, it when away after a little while or stepping on gas. I am thinking on replacing the belts, but wonder if a pully needs to be replace. Can you help? my car its a Nissan altima gxe 2000.
If your charging system is over charging, the issue is the Alternator. I am sure it's aftermarket. Aftermarket Alternators never work right. Do the Job Once and do it right. Get the Alternator from the dealer. While you have the belt off, spin all pulleys and makes sure they are all good. If you get a Squealing noise only when you turn the AC on, that is a sign of a bad compressor
@@FixyourNissan Thx for the reply. I will follow your advice. The noise right now happens every morning when I turn the car on and/or when turn my steering wheel for the first time left and right with out moving my car in the morning. Also if I am driving a bit fast and make a right turn the same screaming sound happends. The squeaky noise its when I turn the ac on. My alternator its an after market from auto zone (duralast). The previous one was the same brand and I had it for 2 yrs. So this new one was free since it was still under warranty. My battery and emergency break turned and that's when I noticed my battery was overcharging.
@@jjarredondo5548 Some of what you described sounds like a Power Steering Belt. But as far as the Alternator over charging, if it's a Aftermarket Alternator, that is most likely the reason. Get one from the dealer and that will resolve your issue.
@@FixyourNissan . I will call monday and get one. I will also check belts and pullies. In your opinion, How much would it be a fair price for an alternator from the dealer?
I just don’t understand… does that 12mm come out? What’s the point of loosening it if the adjuster just gets hit and moves the thing anyway? Nothing will move for me
@@coopersilberling6883 If you are using aftermarket belts, they are to soft and can slip which will give you that squeal. Or you could have a pulley seizing up
@@FixyourNissan what’s the rule of thumb for being tight? I tightened them both down too the point where if I bend them at the tension check points then I can just get it to a 90 degree angle and it’s nice and firm, should I not be able to twist it sideways that much?
I replaced the drive belts already! I have a major oil leak that I'm trying to pinpoint (putting UV fluid in the oil tomorrow morning after I degrease the engine). I'm afraid it's a crank shaft seal since I already replaced the valve cover seal gasket last weekend. Here's to hoping!
Thanks! I replaced the valve cover gasket because that is where the mechanics said it was leaking from. Oops on their part I suppose. I'll check out that oil pan, too!
Did you notice if the crank seal mating diameter had a groove where it rubbed with the seal ? I keep changing my crank seal but 6 months later it always leaks. I think that little wear groove is killing the seal fast. I'll try finding a double lip seal with the same dimension if that exists (but it's hard to find the right seal online when you only know the dimension). SKF sells "SPEEDI-SLEEVE" that I could put over the shaft but that's 70$USD for my size and I'd probably have to machine my crank journal down by 0.032" Maybe I can find a seal with the same dimension except a slightly smaller inside diameter then machine the crank journal to that dimension, that should be cheap. Alternative is a 103$USD pulley (because I can't buy used pulley, they all have the same issue at 200'000KM) btw this is from a 2.5L 2002 Altima
+FixyourNissan The seal does not run on the crank, it runs on a journal that is part of the crank pulley. You can see in this video a 7:11 that before pulley installation, the seal doesn't contact the crank. At least it doesn't in a 2002 Altima 2.5L. I found a wear groove on that crank pulley journal, uniform 360 degrees on that journal, I should have taken a picture. I asked several scrap yard and they all their crank pulley also had the same wear groove so they're no good. I found a metric double lip oil seal of 45x58x8mm, the OD is 0.006" undersized but I hope it will still hold anyway. I'm hoping that the double lip seal will not contact the pulley journal in the same location as the groove.
Then they are a bunch of idiots. The Front Crank Seal you only need to remove the drive belts and balancer to replace. The Rear Main Seal you pull the transmission to access that seal. These rear main seals all tend to seep. If it's only seeping, I would leave it alone. If it's leaking so bad it's starting to leave puddles, then you are going to want to change it.
An idiot auto repair place wanted to charge me $550 to do what you just did on my 94' Altima minus the new belts. I almost smashed my phone to pieces. LMAO
Great DIY video and directions and I changed out my 2001 Altima crank seal today.... You only left out one thing, ie. getting the crank pulley nut off isn't as easy as your demo! I tried my air gun and couldn't budge that nut. For those having that issue there is another TH-cam video demostrating attaching a breaker bar to the nut placing bar forward of the car on a piece of wood on the ground. Just turn the ignition key to bump the starter with out starting the car will pop the nut free!
Thanks Fixyour Nissan!!!
Thanks. Some other video made me buy a puller that I didn't need. After your video, I completed mine in less than an hour.
Cool.. Glad my video helped.
Thank you for the upload. My a.c. belt came off,and it's too hot in Texas to live like that.👍
You are very welcome
I did this yesterday in shop class. Thanks so much for the video.
550 Dollars, that is nuts. The job does pay 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours labor and about 60 in parts. So this job should really cost around the 200 dollar mark.
hi. what is the name of the first belt? and how many separate hoses does it uses? I thought is was supposed to be just one call serpentine belt that hooks up to everything.
Is the idler pulley for the alternator belt easily accessible?
Really good video
I did this repair and it went really well. I had no issues with replacing both belts.
However, when I started up the engine the small belt smoked and fried to pieces.
So either I put it on wrong or too tight.
I think I tightened it down pretty well.
So I'll replace this again
Awesome video. I appreciate you posting this. Do you have advice on replacing the idler pulley up by the alternator? Mine kinda fell off.
If I recall, that is mounted on a bracket. So you remove the bracket and install the new pulley, then re-install the bracket with the new pulley
This is a great video !
Thank you for the kind words and watching!
Great tutorial, thanks!!
You are very welcome!
1:12 to 1:20 how is this possible? Can it be prevented by disconnecting the battery?
O'Neal Raymond If you want to disconnect the battery you can, but you still don't want to allow the alternator to touch the housing, other wise it can damage it as well.
Thanks a Million !!! Love You Tubers Quick and Easy Job Thanks to You : )
Nicely done video. Very helpful.
9:06 Worked like a charm !
Made short work out of that.
Awesome video, nice and simple with great instructions. Thank you Sir!
Your Welcome.. Thanks for watching!
Yea, mine didnt quite work that way. My belt doesnt want to fit properly and its the right belt and I have the alternator all the way back.
Hey I tried breaking the crank bolt with a. Breaker bar but the pulley kept spinning will an impact wrench not spin it
Great job on this, thank you!
Thanks for sharing. Pretty helpful. You make it look easy and it probably is.
hey, the front crank seal you place was because of oil leak ?? is it common in those cars? hope in getting your answer quick.
giovanni silva Yes I was replacing it cause it was leaking. That is normally why it's changed.
FixyourNissan thank you very much.
Thank you
Why did you change the crank seal. Was it making a noise? Is that also called hormonic balancer?
Crank seal was leaking oil. Yes, that is also called the Harmonic Balancer that you remove to access it. Thanks for watching!
thanks bro, really helped me out
Your welcome.. Thanks for watching!
Do I need to disconnect the Battery just to be on the safe side not to damage the Aternator?
Anytime you change a Alternator you disconnect the battery. If you are just changing the belts, I don't normally. But if you tap the Alternator to far in, it can short and blow the main fusible link. So it would not hurt to do that.
Autozone offers 4 different length belts for the drive belt - any way to know which length I need before I take it off?
For what year and Model Nissan? If it's a 2.4 Nissan Altima, there is only 2. One with AC or With out
So I don't need to take the timing belt out to change the seal?
You have a Timing chain. No you don't need to do anything with the timing chains when you are doing a Front Crank Seal.
Thanks for watching!
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FixyourNissan. I want to know to change a timing belt on a 2000 like to know how to change timing chain on a 2007 Altima to change the time on a 2007
like to know how to change a timeing chan on a2007
2007altima how to change timeing chan
Hello there. I just replaced my alternator because it was overcharging my battery. Took it to autozone to test it and it was bad. My battery still overcharging, friends tell me it might take a week to adjust the battery if not to test battery to see if it the cell might got damange. Might need to replace battery. Its been 4 days since I replaced the alternator. 2 days after I did, I very lound noise started when I turn the car on if goes away when I step on gas or wait for a bit. Also if I turn the steering wheel the same sounds happened it goes away after a couple of turns. Before all this happened, there was a squeaky sound whenever I turned the ac, it when away after a little while or stepping on gas. I am thinking on replacing the belts, but wonder if a pully needs to be replace. Can you help? my car its a Nissan altima gxe 2000.
If your charging system is over charging, the issue is the Alternator. I am sure it's aftermarket. Aftermarket Alternators never work right. Do the Job Once and do it right. Get the Alternator from the dealer. While you have the belt off, spin all pulleys and makes sure they are all good. If you get a Squealing noise only when you turn the AC on, that is a sign of a bad compressor
@@FixyourNissan Thx for the reply. I will follow your advice. The noise right now happens every morning when I turn the car on and/or when turn my steering wheel for the first time left and right with out moving my car in the morning. Also if I am driving a bit fast and make a right turn the same screaming sound happends. The squeaky noise its when I turn the ac on. My alternator its an after market from auto zone (duralast). The previous one was the same brand and I had it for 2 yrs. So this new one was free since it was still under warranty. My battery and emergency break turned and that's when I noticed my battery was overcharging.
@@jjarredondo5548 Some of what you described sounds like a Power Steering Belt. But as far as the Alternator over charging, if it's a Aftermarket Alternator, that is most likely the reason. Get one from the dealer and that will resolve your issue.
@@FixyourNissan . I will call monday and get one. I will also check belts and pullies. In your opinion, How much would it be a fair price for an alternator from the dealer?
I just don’t understand… does that 12mm come out? What’s the point of loosening it if the adjuster just gets hit and moves the thing anyway? Nothing will move for me
The 12 mm locks the adjuster. So you need to crack the 12 mm loose so the adjuster can loosen and tighten the belt
@@FixyourNissan figured it out, replaced both belts and it’s still squealing when I turn the wheel
@@coopersilberling6883 If you are using aftermarket belts, they are to soft and can slip which will give you that squeal. Or you could have a pulley seizing up
@@coopersilberling6883 Then the belt is not tight enough or the belt is to soft
@@FixyourNissan what’s the rule of thumb for being tight? I tightened them both down too the point where if I bend them at the tension check points then I can just get it to a 90 degree angle and it’s nice and firm, should I not be able to twist it sideways that much?
I replaced the drive belts already! I have a major oil leak that I'm trying to pinpoint (putting UV fluid in the oil tomorrow morning after I degrease the engine). I'm afraid it's a crank shaft seal since I already replaced the valve cover seal gasket last weekend. Here's to hoping!
if it's from the front of the engine, it is most likely the crank seal. Also check the lower oil pan as well. If it is rusted it can seep oil.
Thanks! I replaced the valve cover gasket because that is where the mechanics said it was leaking from. Oops on their part I suppose. I'll check out that oil pan, too!
Very helpful!!
Nice work thank youuu so muchh
Did you notice if the crank seal mating diameter had a groove where it rubbed with the seal ? I keep changing my crank seal but 6 months later it always leaks.
I think that little wear groove is killing the seal fast. I'll try finding a double lip seal with the same dimension if that exists (but it's hard to find the right seal online when you only know the dimension).
SKF sells "SPEEDI-SLEEVE" that I could put over the shaft but that's 70$USD for my size and I'd probably have to machine my crank journal down by 0.032"
Maybe I can find a seal with the same dimension except a slightly smaller inside diameter then machine the crank journal to that dimension, that should be cheap.
Alternative is a 103$USD pulley (because I can't buy used pulley, they all have the same issue at 200'000KM)
btw this is from a 2.5L 2002 Altima
+shodanxx If you pried out the old crank seal and put a burr in the crank, it would cause it to keep taking out seals. I would check your crank!
+FixyourNissan The seal does not run on the crank, it runs on a journal that is part of the crank pulley. You can see in this video a 7:11 that before pulley installation, the seal doesn't contact the crank. At least it doesn't in a 2002 Altima 2.5L.
I found a wear groove on that crank pulley journal, uniform 360 degrees on that journal, I should have taken a picture. I asked several scrap yard and they all their crank pulley also had the same wear groove so they're no good.
I found a metric double lip oil seal of 45x58x8mm, the OD is 0.006" undersized but I hope it will still hold anyway. I'm hoping that the double lip seal will not contact the pulley journal in the same location as the groove.
You didn't show how you got the last part of the belt around the alternator I don't I can't figure it out I got it all the way back
Firestone said they have to pull the engine to change my crank main seal
Then they are a bunch of idiots. The Front Crank Seal you only need to remove the drive belts and balancer to replace. The Rear Main Seal you pull the transmission to access that seal. These rear main seals all tend to seep. If it's only seeping, I would leave it alone. If it's leaking so bad it's starting to leave puddles, then you are going to want to change it.
Thanks.
O'Neal Raymond Ray thanks for he heads up.
Thanks
Your welcome! Thanks for watching!
Followed every step to loosen alternator
It still wont move
This is how to loosen the belt.
An idiot auto repair place wanted to charge me $550 to do what you just did on my 94' Altima minus the new belts. I almost smashed my phone to pieces. LMAO
thanks, was pretty easy :)
You didn’t show how to get the belt around the alternator. You kno damn well it wasn’t that easy bro
My ac belt broke
Thx