As for the neck pocket, I'd add the wedges first to create a rectangular pocket and then the neck will slide in without needing wedges afterwards. Feels like an easier way to achive the same thing
And most importantly, that would still allow a bolt-on neck, which seems important for a travel guitar. You want to be able to unscrew the neck so that it take up less space during the actual travel.
@@kardRatzinger I forget which company had a guitar similar to that. The connection was like a Tzus fastener. Half turn and pop, it's released. You could leave the strings on it and just put the 2 pieces/halves in a small case. That case would fit in any overhead compartment with plenty of room to spare. I mean it was really small, packed up, and had a full sized neck. Pretty cool, quick release design. Sort of like those half turn road case latches...
There's no mistake here, sure many people would have discovered this problem at the design stage but design is not part of your process, you just jump in and let the chips fly. You've built a team of skilled craftsmen who are delegated to be efficient and productive, you've earned the right jerk the dog on the bleeding edge of discovery and we have all gathered to watch the carnage and learn from it.
Shape the neck to slide straight in. Drill through the sides of the guitar body through the neck pocket, side to side.Then drill a hole though the side of the neck that is a millimetre or so offset down the kneck from the holes through the body. Then knock a dowel through the holes pulling it all in tightly together. Then a bit of tidy up and you have a joint that can be undone for repair etc... 😁 You could even bush the holes with brass or something for longevity. Use rectangular holes and pin so it wont spin on the joint.
I'm not an anxious person normally, but knowing from the beginning that you did something wrong had me tense throught all the episode XD But great episode, and thank you as always for your videos !
Brilliant book recommendation Ben. If it's the only book you can afford, it's the best - considered the Bible for guitar design and building. A lot of work went into. My wife ordered it for me many many years ago and the book seller commissioned a guitar build from me, which I turned down, since I really had only built electric, repairs etc. Enjoying this build by the way.
I noticed the path you were on to from the moment you dry fitted the top to the body... I would just pull the top off and install the neck. Then I would use leftover strips and bind the top if the refit doesn't go smoothly. Live and learn...
Loving the Shock the fox tee. Tye’s a great guy. By the way, also love the build. It’s also sooo much more interesting when you show the errors. A lot of guys won’t do that. Congrats.
When you mentioned the book, I was stunned! William Cumpiano runs a workshop that is 10 minutes from my house in Western Massachusetts. He offers 2 week one-on-one courses. I wish I could afford one.
Congratulations on making the error hilarious :) Of course it was deliberate to make any future neck reset easier for the luthier. Gluing wedges in as you suggested was my first thought as well. As far as the bracing goes. Wider bracing will change the tone slightly but who is to say whether the change is better or worse. Loving the build and its looking great.
Hey Bun I would do it this way Step 1, glue new wood to the neck pocket. Step 2, make the neck square. Step 3, place neck to mark. Step 4, chissel the wood away. Step 5, glue the neck in
I really love your attention to detail but also appreciate that you are human ❤️. I would love to spend 10 mins with you, I'm sure I would learn more about working with unrelenting material's than I would ever realize 💖
You could make a "control wheel" at the lower end of the neck and cut the excess of the truss rod off. Making the "wheel" hexagon, octagon or even twelve sided to match the design of the guitar, and a small hole at every side to be able to insert a metal rod for turning the wheel and adjust the truss rod. Then you simply extend the neck a bit around it for an enclosure, make the neck cut out in the top a bit longer and bolt the neck in. A bolted neck will allow you to fix the adjustment mechanism if the wheel loosens from the axis or such. And making it with edges is more easy than making it circular without using machinery. (But why make something easy when you can over complicate it😉) As a pro you will of course call it a design feature.
The sanding of that particular type of wood creates an absolute nails on the chalkboard effect on headphones users. Ugggg. Even the chiseling is so screechy. Gonna have to tap out on this vid..
I like your solution, but I would absolutely still make it a bolt-on neck in this situation. When you're working with such a prototype guitar, I think having the ability to take it apart and work on it is invaluable (especially if you find that the neck angle needs adjusting after the guitar settles). If you glue the neck in, it will be a killer to take it back out--way too much lateral surface area with glue joints. It's easier with a dovetail because once it's free a bit, the angles let you take the whole thing out. A mortise and tennon means you have to fight hat glue the whole length of the joint. That being said, your solution definitely sounds like it will work, it just won't be as repair-friendly in the future. Love these videos, looking forward to the next one!
My first thought was a stripe of different material on the front, so you could cut a 1/2" out of the front, drop in the neck, and then inlay the stripe. Except that doesn't work if you are doing the whole build with the same chunk of wood. I think it would look like a wonky repair if you can't use a unique strip of wood.
I'd cut the hole in the top brace so it's more of a channel. You might get a small saw through the neck pocket or you may have to take off the top. You could always glue a patch to bridge the brace again once the truss rod is in place.
I wonder if it would be possible to cut the truss rod close to the neck and make it a screw on-solution, have the other piece to be able to go trough the soundhole when the neck is in place and screw it on, Or even, do some sort of a 90 degree mod, where you adjust the trus rod with an alan key from the back by the neck 🧐 Or, actually have a small opening in the back similar to a heel adjustment rod on electric guitars…
As you were gluing up the top, I thought "Soo... how's the neck attach again? Guess I'll keep watching because I know nothing about this wizardry you're performing!" I see know where the wheels came off.
It's at times like this you just need to take a deep breath and say "Arse!" 🤣 Face it, it wouldn't be a Ben Crowe Guitar without Ben making it difficult for himself, intentional or otherwise. It's why we watch these videos. The person who has "Neck Wont Go In The Neck Pocket" on their Crimson Custom Bingo Card, take a bow.
That's funny Ben.. I couldn't find an offset chisel like that anywhere. So I heated one up in a mechanics vise, and bent it just like that! I had to use it in some old, old window frames I was refinishing. Under all the green paint, (yes, green) it was beautiful red oak. And I needed all manner of chisels and sanders to get in all the nooks. Arched windows with a beautiful removable crank design to open and close them... They opened like doors. Something you just don't see anymore. No screens though!
I'd be tempted to cut a channel in the top allowing the truss rod to lower into place. Fill the channel with a contrasting (stained) piece of the same wood. Shape the channel to complement the body shape.
For the neck I'd be tempted to see if I could angle it in with two minor modifications... First, add a 45 degree bevel to the bottom edge of the neck (somewhere betwee 6mm and 12mm on an edge). Second, add a small notch in the top that doesn't exceed the freboard overhang. I have to say I doubt I would've thought of the wedges... and it's a clever solution.
I think I'd be tempted to reshape the pocket to a rectanglesuch that I could add wedges from the top, rather than needing to fiddle with wedges in a blind cavity. As a bonus, this makes those wedges much more possible to remove later in case the neck needs repair, but the drawback is that they're a bit weaker and would show on the outside.
I did the same thing on the Astrolabe 25. I actually had to rethink it and mount the neck before I glued on the top! Of course I could only do this because I realized the issue before the top was glued on! Loving this build. P&L
The easiest way to fix it, as far as I can tell, is to remove enough material from the top so you can glue de neck in place as you would on a normal guitar, and then replace that material with some sort of the decoration such as a piece of wood with some veneer, in order to make it seem it was on purpose
Instead of making the sides of the neck and pocket parallel, could you reverse the angle of the sides of the neck so that it gets narrower as it gets closer to the body end. Then glue some wedges into the body to receive it. Another option, along the same lines, would be a tapered dovetail so the joint pulls the neck down and into the body as you slide it in. Either of these would allow you to retain your bolt on neck and could be shimmed to tighten the fit if it loosens over time.
Ben, oh dear. What would do is this: Remove the top, a very fine knife blade between the sides and top totally remove the top fit the neck as you planned and then refit the top. If i had the wood working skills and tools you have I would do it a more flamboyant way. I await in anticipation in what you do.
I remember thinking at the time you made those braces that they were heckin’ chonkers, but I said nothing because I know nothing about acoustic building.
It may be a setback, but I'm sure you'll figure out a good solution and make it work well. Anyway, compared to the wiring/soldering issues I experienced with my GGBO 2022 Scratch Build (still not finished), yours is a walk in the park.
It's the obsessive attention to tiny details that will never be seen. Like chamfering the bridge backplate, cleaning glue and sanding internals that aren't even visible. Exquisite pride in your work ... ... then missing the big detail that the neck won't fit. It's nothing you can't fix, but it is quite funny to watch. We've all had those Doh moments. 😂
Is the top in the way, or is the truss rod in the way. That is the question. I'd be inclined to drill a hole and pull the truss rod out of the headstock end, glue in the neck, then push the truss rod back into position. You could then plug the hole on the headstock end if necessary. 🤷♀
Maybe making a parallel neck joint (instead of the comon tapered joint) and a hole on the bracing you could just slide the neck into the pocket and glue it. You would need to remove material from the body neck joint and add material to the neck itself.
I'm only halfway through, but I think it's screaming for Walnut or Flame Maple binding ! But that's just me. Nice work Ben, it's already looking better than the backpacker !!
so I realize this is a silly thing to do but I'm an average joe that has a little bit of woodworking experience. I'm trying to turn an old 1970's Strat style learning guitar into a semi-hollow custom. back when this guitar was made the body was not a solid piece of wood it was a front face and a back face that was glued together. pretty much a train wreck as far as the seem and construction around the neck joint anyway the idea was to cut the front and rear face along the existing seem on the body to route out the semi-hollow bits. the problem I'm having is figuring out how to cut the 2 faces apart from each other?
I hadn't realised Ben was keeping this guitar, I thought it was going to be raffled, It's the first guitar I've seen on this channel that I could have taken round to John LeVoi and had it flipped lefty :o(
@@Craftlngo Yeah, I had realised that, it's just that I had been watching this from the very beginning, each episode thinking "brilliant, nothing that can't be sorted out so far" symmetry is the friend of the forgotten lefty, my first guitar was a flipped Yamaha SG2000🙂
Wouldn't it be better to shim the sides of the neck pocket while the neck is still out? That would give you more room to do it precisely. You would struggle to really fill the gaps fully through the sound hole. You could then cut the top to fit the neck perfectly.
Pish, that's not a mistake. A mistake would be using power tools on a hand tool only build. Oh, wait .... 🤣 Seriously, loving watching this come together. It makes me want to build a guitar and I have no woodworking experience beyond DT 30 years ago at school, and I neither play a guitar nor know anybody who does. But I do have a daughter who plays violin, piano and dulcimer, and really wants a Hurdy Gurdy. Building a guitar might be a good way to practice and learn some technique.
When knocking on the guitar's top, wouldn't it make more sense to "hang" the guitar top from the bridge mounting plate, since that will be the epicenter from which the vibrations will emanate?
I would try to drill a hole from the neckpocket through the bracing of the top to fit the trussrod. I'm sorry about my really bad english, so I hope you understand what I want so explain.... Thank you for your great work. I like your videos very much.
Make sure when using the wedges during glue up you use the salt method. You will need the added friction to pull the joint tight since you are using glue ?
Does the end of the truss rod come off? I’m thinking that the end of the truss rod is a really long nut that can be removed, the neck fitted, and the nut reinstalled through the aforementioned hole in the top brace while the glue is still wet, and then clamp once re-threaded… I’m not familiar with that truss rod construction though.
Not an expert, so ignore as you see fit. from watching Ted Woodford, turning the neck heel into a tenon and adding appropriate blocks to the body would be simpler and allow neck resets etc? I'd be concerned that the method you're suggesting would mean a future neck reset would be out of the question. that said your solution does sound cool :D
I would of F't it up way before this lol, I don't think I would of had nice even thickness wood for the body as my hand sawing skills are very poor when trying to cut the wood like you did. I'm sure it will be awesome as you got the skills to fix it.
I was watching and just kept saying “don’t do it, dude!” “Wait!” “No!” but you just keep going. What you need to do now is temporarily turn off collisions in your game code, fit it normally, and then re-enable collisions. Wait, no.
Did the neck pocket need to be tapered to begin with? This isn't meant to be judgmental - I don't know enough about hollow body instrument building to begin to second guess any of your decisions. If you mentioned why it was tapered that way, I must have missed it.
The "error." Why not just cut the 'excess' truss rod off? I presume it adjusts at the dangly end, so you could just run a die over it and thread a nut on to provide something for your adjusting tool to mate with..best solution would be a tack weld, but a pair of jam nuts and some thread locker would suffice if you want to adhere to the "all hand tools" rule.
As for the neck pocket, I'd add the wedges first to create a rectangular pocket and then the neck will slide in without needing wedges afterwards. Feels like an easier way to achive the same thing
This is what i would have suggested too. Just make the neck pocket rectangular.
My thoughts exactly. Then again, I don’t have the guitar in front of me. 🤠
And most importantly, that would still allow a bolt-on neck, which seems important for a travel guitar. You want to be able to unscrew the neck so that it take up less space during the actual travel.
@@kardRatzinger I forget which company had a guitar similar to that. The connection was like a Tzus fastener. Half turn and pop, it's released. You could leave the strings on it and just put the 2 pieces/halves in a small case. That case would fit in any overhead compartment with plenty of room to spare. I mean it was really small, packed up, and had a full sized neck. Pretty cool, quick release design. Sort of like those half turn road case latches...
@@atakdragonfly1675 yup, I played something like that, quite practical indeed, and not a terrible guitar, once assembled.
There's no mistake here, sure many people would have discovered this problem at the design stage but design is not part of your process, you just jump in and let the chips fly. You've built a team of skilled craftsmen who are delegated to be efficient and productive, you've earned the right jerk the dog on the bleeding edge of discovery and we have all gathered to watch the carnage and learn from it.
I absolutely LOVE the way you put that! 😀
very, very funny. brilliant.
Shape the neck to slide straight in. Drill through the sides of the guitar body through the neck pocket, side to side.Then drill a hole though the side of the neck that is a millimetre or so offset down the kneck from the holes through the body. Then knock a dowel through the holes pulling it all in tightly together. Then a bit of tidy up and you have a joint that can be undone for repair etc... 😁
You could even bush the holes with brass or something for longevity.
Use rectangular holes and pin so it wont spin on the joint.
When Ben says 'This is THE thing' and you, for once, actually have that thing. Got that book for Christmas years ago!
I'm not an anxious person normally, but knowing from the beginning that you did something wrong had me tense throught all the episode XD But great episode, and thank you as always for your videos !
Your ability to perfectly scribe a line with just your hand is fantastic
Brilliant book recommendation Ben. If it's the only book you can afford, it's the best - considered the Bible for guitar design and building. A lot of work went into. My wife ordered it for me many many years ago and the book seller commissioned a guitar build from me, which I turned down, since I really had only built electric, repairs etc. Enjoying this build by the way.
I noticed the path you were on to from the moment you dry fitted the top to the body... I would just pull the top off and install the neck. Then I would use leftover strips and bind the top if the refit doesn't go smoothly. Live and learn...
Loving the Shock the fox tee. Tye’s a great guy.
By the way, also love the build. It’s also sooo much more interesting when you show the errors. A lot of guys won’t do that. Congrats.
I can't wait to see this finished! My god the grain on that fretboard is absolutely gorgeous 🤩
When you mentioned the book, I was stunned! William Cumpiano runs a workshop that is 10 minutes from my house in Western Massachusetts. He offers 2 week one-on-one courses. I wish I could afford one.
Congratulations on making the error hilarious :) Of course it was deliberate to make any future neck reset easier for the luthier. Gluing wedges in as you suggested was my first thought as well. As far as the bracing goes. Wider bracing will change the tone slightly but who is to say whether the change is better or worse. Loving the build and its looking great.
My favourite build so far.
I am not the only one! Great episode!
Hey Bun
I would do it this way
Step 1,
glue new wood to the neck pocket.
Step 2,
make the neck square.
Step 3,
place neck to mark.
Step 4,
chissel the wood away.
Step 5,
glue the neck in
Was literally about to comment the same thought 👍
I love that every build on here has a moment of crisis. Haha. Always cool to see how it gets resolved, though.
I seem to have a habit of making life difficult for myself 😆
I do love the sound of a sharp chisel in the morning...
Talk about ASMR. It sounds sooo good. It's almost a music of its own.
Nice shirt! and yes that it the book! i just got my copy in the mail tanks to tp guitars
Add the wedges first to make the pocket square, and then square the heel. Don't complicate your life.
Don't throw yourself under a bus Ben or in the canal we have all made mistakes bud , have a drink tomm is another day 😂😂😁😁🤘🤘🤘🤘
Fix it the way you just stated Ben. Take your time and it will work out. You've got this Ben!
I really love your attention to detail but also appreciate that you are human ❤️.
I would love to spend 10 mins with you, I'm sure I would learn more about working with unrelenting material's than I would ever realize 💖
You could make a "control wheel" at the lower end of the neck and cut the excess of the truss rod off. Making the "wheel" hexagon, octagon or even twelve sided to match the design of the guitar, and a small hole at every side to be able to insert a metal rod for turning the wheel and adjust the truss rod. Then you simply extend the neck a bit around it for an enclosure, make the neck cut out in the top a bit longer and bolt the neck in. A bolted neck will allow you to fix the adjustment mechanism if the wheel loosens from the axis or such.
And making it with edges is more easy than making it circular without using machinery. (But why make something easy when you can over complicate it😉)
As a pro you will of course call it a design feature.
Waiting for the next session.
The sanding of that particular type of wood creates an absolute nails on the chalkboard effect on headphones users. Ugggg. Even the chiseling is so screechy. Gonna have to tap out on this vid..
I like your solution, but I would absolutely still make it a bolt-on neck in this situation. When you're working with such a prototype guitar, I think having the ability to take it apart and work on it is invaluable (especially if you find that the neck angle needs adjusting after the guitar settles).
If you glue the neck in, it will be a killer to take it back out--way too much lateral surface area with glue joints. It's easier with a dovetail because once it's free a bit, the angles let you take the whole thing out. A mortise and tennon means you have to fight hat glue the whole length of the joint. That being said, your solution definitely sounds like it will work, it just won't be as repair-friendly in the future.
Love these videos, looking forward to the next one!
Very good points, thank you!
My first thought was a stripe of different material on the front, so you could cut a 1/2" out of the front, drop in the neck, and then inlay the stripe. Except that doesn't work if you are doing the whole build with the same chunk of wood. I think it would look like a wonky repair if you can't use a unique strip of wood.
Didn't know you EVER got rid of tools!!🤪🤪
Nice t-shirt. Shock the Fox makes some beautiful guitars!
That he does, inspiration there for sure!
Hahaha, wonderful, its how we learn, from our mistakes, To err is human, youve got this, keep on keeping on.
I'd cut the hole in the top brace so it's more of a channel. You might get a small saw through the neck pocket or you may have to take off the top. You could always glue a patch to bridge the brace again once the truss rod is in place.
I wonder if it would be possible to cut the truss rod close to the neck and make it a screw on-solution, have the other piece to be able to go trough the soundhole when the neck is in place and screw it on,
Or even, do some sort of a 90 degree mod, where you adjust the trus rod with an alan key from the back by the neck 🧐
Or, actually have a small opening in the back similar to a heel adjustment rod on electric guitars…
As you were gluing up the top, I thought "Soo... how's the neck attach again? Guess I'll keep watching because I know nothing about this wizardry you're performing!" I see know where the wheels came off.
New guitar style - not headless, but neckless!!!
It's at times like this you just need to take a deep breath and say "Arse!" 🤣
Face it, it wouldn't be a Ben Crowe Guitar without Ben making it difficult for himself, intentional or otherwise. It's why we watch these videos. The person who has "Neck Wont Go In The Neck Pocket" on their Crimson Custom Bingo Card, take a bow.
That's funny Ben.. I couldn't find an offset chisel like that anywhere. So I heated one up in a mechanics vise, and bent it just like that! I had to use it in some old, old window frames I was refinishing. Under all the green paint, (yes, green) it was beautiful red oak. And I needed all manner of chisels and sanders to get in all the nooks. Arched windows with a beautiful removable crank design to open and close them... They opened like doors. Something you just don't see anymore. No screens though!
One of those tools you don't even know exists until the very moment you find the job that simply can't be done without one!
Thanks for the book recommendation! I just ordered a copy!
I'd be tempted to cut a channel in the top allowing the truss rod to lower into place. Fill the channel with a contrasting (stained) piece of the same wood. Shape the channel to complement the body shape.
You didn’t mess up… you are just using a new way of doing it. 🤘
For the neck I'd be tempted to see if I could angle it in with two minor modifications...
First, add a 45 degree bevel to the bottom edge of the neck (somewhere betwee 6mm and 12mm on an edge).
Second, add a small notch in the top that doesn't exceed the freboard overhang.
I have to say I doubt I would've thought of the wedges... and it's a clever solution.
I think I'd be tempted to reshape the pocket to a rectanglesuch that I could add wedges from the top, rather than needing to fiddle with wedges in a blind cavity. As a bonus, this makes those wedges much more possible to remove later in case the neck needs repair, but the drawback is that they're a bit weaker and would show on the outside.
I know those tenons as foxtail tenons, apart from taking the top off ( messy ball ache ) go with the wedges
I think I would re-think the truss rod arrangement.
I would not have made that error as I would have fitted the neck before the top. That is what I expected you to do.
I would remove the back partially from the neck block to a third of the length of the body. But don’t enough about the geometry to tell you to.
I did the same thing on the Astrolabe 25. I actually had to rethink it and mount the neck before I glued on the top! Of course I could only do this because I realized the issue before the top was glued on! Loving this build. P&L
The easiest way to fix it, as far as I can tell, is to remove enough material from the top so you can glue de neck in place as you would on a normal guitar, and then replace that material with some sort of the decoration such as a piece of wood with some veneer, in order to make it seem it was on purpose
Another fantastic upload.
Love your attitude, dude!
If that had been me the thing would be lying in bits alongside my half empty/full glass 🤪
Instead of making the sides of the neck and pocket parallel, could you reverse the angle of the sides of the neck so that it gets narrower as it gets closer to the body end. Then glue some wedges into the body to receive it.
Another option, along the same lines, would be a tapered dovetail so the joint pulls the neck down and into the body as you slide it in.
Either of these would allow you to retain your bolt on neck and could be shimmed to tighten the fit if it loosens over time.
"You fool, Ben Crowe" - Ben Crowe
Ben, oh dear. What would do is this:
Remove the top, a very fine knife blade between the sides and top totally remove the top fit the neck as you planned and then refit the top.
If i had the wood working skills and tools you have I would do it a more flamboyant way.
I await in anticipation in what you do.
I was thinking remove the top before you mentioned your method. Yours is genius
think I would re-think the truss rod arrangement.
Minor hiccup on the neck but a nice innovative way to fix it. I learn something new every time I watch your videos!
I remember thinking at the time you made those braces that they were heckin’ chonkers, but I said nothing because I know nothing about acoustic building.
Lol what a mistake-a to make-a ......Daft Vader ......Great video thanks Ben.
Thanks for watching!
It may be a setback, but I'm sure you'll figure out a good solution and make it work well. Anyway, compared to the wiring/soldering issues I experienced with my GGBO 2022 Scratch Build (still not finished), yours is a walk in the park.
It's the obsessive attention to tiny details that will never be seen. Like chamfering the bridge backplate, cleaning glue and sanding internals that aren't even visible. Exquisite pride in your work ...
... then missing the big detail that the neck won't fit. It's nothing you can't fix, but it is quite funny to watch. We've all had those Doh moments. 😂
This is about the point where a buddy of mine or I would say to the other, "Don't f*ck up". Because we're helpful that way. :)
Everyone of your videos reminds me that my planes and chisels aren't sharp enough...
Just today I was why we don't do electric bolt-on style neck pockets on an acoustics. Mystery solved!
Is the top in the way, or is the truss rod in the way. That is the question. I'd be inclined to drill a hole and pull the truss rod out of the headstock end, glue in the neck, then push the truss rod back into position. You could then plug the hole on the headstock end if necessary. 🤷♀
Maybe making a parallel neck joint (instead of the comon tapered joint) and a hole on the bracing you could just slide the neck into the pocket and glue it. You would need to remove material from the body neck joint and add material to the neck itself.
Still love the build. How about doing the right thing and heating and or steaming off the top?
I'm only halfway through, but I think it's screaming for Walnut or Flame Maple binding ! But that's just me. Nice work Ben, it's already looking better than the backpacker !!
so I realize this is a silly thing to do but I'm an average joe that has a little bit of woodworking experience. I'm trying to turn an old 1970's Strat style learning guitar into a semi-hollow custom. back when this guitar was made the body was not a solid piece of wood it was a front face and a back face that was glued together. pretty much a train wreck as far as the seem and construction around the neck joint anyway the idea was to cut the front and rear face along the existing seem on the body to route out the semi-hollow bits. the problem I'm having is figuring out how to cut the 2 faces apart from each other?
I hadn't realised Ben was keeping this guitar, I thought it was going to be raffled, It's the first guitar I've seen on this channel that I could have taken round to John LeVoi and had it flipped lefty :o(
Crimson is going to sell a Kit based on this Hand-Only Build
@@Craftlngo Yeah, I had realised that, it's just that I had been watching this from the very beginning, each episode thinking "brilliant, nothing that can't be sorted out so far"
symmetry is the friend of the forgotten lefty, my first guitar was a flipped Yamaha SG2000🙂
Wouldn't it be better to shim the sides of the neck pocket while the neck is still out? That would give you more room to do it precisely. You would struggle to really fill the gaps fully through the sound hole. You could then cut the top to fit the neck perfectly.
What better sound than wood being sliced ❤
Pish, that's not a mistake. A mistake would be using power tools on a hand tool only build.
Oh, wait .... 🤣
Seriously, loving watching this come together. It makes me want to build a guitar and I have no woodworking experience beyond DT 30 years ago at school, and I neither play a guitar nor know anybody who does.
But I do have a daughter who plays violin, piano and dulcimer, and really wants a Hurdy Gurdy. Building a guitar might be a good way to practice and learn some technique.
coolest little guitar ever. please make a carved lute hole cover :D
Glue neck cut off wedges into body before neck glue? Looking forward to how this guitar will sound .
06:33 - Ben Crowe's top relationship tips ;)
When knocking on the guitar's top, wouldn't it make more sense to "hang" the guitar top from the bridge mounting plate, since that will be the epicenter from which the vibrations will emanate?
I think you should slot the top and leave the truss rod exposed. It should look pretty cool.
I would try to drill a hole from the neckpocket through the bracing of the top to fit the trussrod. I'm sorry about my really bad english, so I hope you understand what I want so explain.... Thank you for your great work. I like your videos very much.
There's already a hole through the brace for the truss rod
Make sure when using the wedges during glue up you use the salt method. You will need the added friction to pull the joint tight since you are using glue ?
I'd probably throw a wobbly then go watch some crimson guitar vids to see what Ben would do!
Thanks for not having so much background music. I much prefer the vids without music.
I agree
Dude did a 90s hot wheels car tatto oh his head 😂
So, how long did the panic last between realising your error and coming up with a solution?
Awesome shirt. :D
Wedging way down inside with braces in the way won't be nearly as easy as removing the top.
Does the end of the truss rod come off? I’m thinking that the end of the truss rod is a really long nut that can be removed, the neck fitted, and the nut reinstalled through the aforementioned hole in the top brace while the glue is still wet, and then clamp once re-threaded… I’m not familiar with that truss rod construction though.
Nice shirt!
Not an expert, so ignore as you see fit. from watching Ted Woodford, turning the neck heel into a tenon and adding appropriate blocks to the body would be simpler and allow neck resets etc? I'd be concerned that the method you're suggesting would mean a future neck reset would be out of the question. that said your solution does sound cool :D
Ben, could you please add a link to the book you referenced? It's hard to read the title. Perhaps include the ISBN number?
I would of F't it up way before this lol, I don't think I would of had nice even thickness wood for the body as my hand sawing skills are very poor when trying to cut the wood like you did. I'm sure it will be awesome as you got the skills to fix it.
Practice makes progress. Hand saw alittle 'everyday' and work on your form. It's gets easier over time.
Just smash about undred wood screws into it. Should do the trick nicely 😉🤣
Lets face it, the fact he hasn't used a power tool by mistake is a miracle in itself!
Tru that
A true lightbulb moment.....
Ben when he grabbed the neck to fit it: *record scratch* yep, that’s me. You’re probably wondering how I got in this situation
Made me lol thank you
"Isn't that a blinding error?"
Yes Ben, but keep practicing, one day you'll be a luthier 🤣
I was watching and just kept saying “don’t do it, dude!” “Wait!” “No!” but you just keep going. What you need to do now is temporarily turn off collisions in your game code, fit it normally, and then re-enable collisions.
Wait, no.
Did the neck pocket need to be tapered to begin with? This isn't meant to be judgmental - I don't know enough about hollow body instrument building to begin to second guess any of your decisions. If you mentioned why it was tapered that way, I must have missed it.
Convex plane Ben 😉
I'd employ the use of a recently lit match. Only joking, likely there would be tears.
The "error."
Why not just cut the 'excess' truss rod off? I presume it adjusts at the dangly end, so you could just run a die over it and thread a nut on to provide something for your adjusting tool to mate with..best solution would be a tack weld, but a pair of jam nuts and some thread locker would suffice if you want to adhere to the "all hand tools" rule.
Very good points! I will have a closer look at it..
Henry Taylor in Sheffield still make Cranked Paring Chisel
Square up the pocket and do a bolt on shouldn't hurt the sound quality or sustain with that comparatively large upper block .