Yeah, I think that long flat torque range is what makes them a better road racing engine, I road race these things all the time.
9 วันที่ผ่านมา +2
I use the Callies cranks also, they told me they thread the hole deep in the snout of the crank to get into the heavier part of the crank, because in the normal area it can cause distortion to the snout, raising the possibility of the snout breaking off, and yes, they should supply the proper bolt with the crank.
I did a complete gen1 top end conversion on my gen2 LT1 for my Chevelle, it ran 11.5s NA, fun setup and project. I converted it over to reverse cooling
My California overlords do not approve of your exhaust stacks, they will be sending a strong worded letter,sir. Me on the other hand, FUCK YAAAAAAAA! Lemme take a hit
I love it. Now that my 331 Mustang is nearly done, I'll be preparing for the 383 LT4 swap. First thing, I need to have a base tune loaded onto my Torqhead ECU and my spare factory ECU. I want a stock ECU tuned just in case I want or need to go back to factory Optispark EFI. Should I call PCMforless or take it East Coast Supercharging (Which is only a hour drive away) to have a base tune uploaded? So far I'm leaning to PCMforless.
Not a bad number considering a barely fits intake not port matched. Maybe 625 with the port matched lt4 intake?
9 วันที่ผ่านมา
Yeah, I was trying to figure out what intake he had on there, it must be home made from a regular sbc, I bought a GM carburetor intake for the LT1 several years ago, just in case, I've never used it.
This is a very unique and awesome build, love it , I’ve been wondering this for a while now , is the Gen ll SBC block stronger then the Gen 1’s ? And do you have a better chance on clearancing a Gen ll LT1 block for a 4 inch stroke then you do a Gen 1 block ?
To answer the Gen 1 vs Gen 2 block comparison...I guess some Gen 1 blocks are actually better than Gen 2 but most Gen 1 (older) are not as good overall. Recently built a customer's GMPP 383 gen 1 small block Chevy and it was as good as the GEN II LT1. The 400 SBC gen 1 is certainly better the Gen II LT1. I would guess that neither block has an advantage for clearancing. All mostly the same bottom of the block area. For help with the 4" stroke clearance then smaller rod journals are a big big help.
@@EllweinEnginessorry karl but from my experience the gen 2 blocks are much stronger, ive seen more problems with the deck cracking around the head bolts on the gen ones, especially the 400's once you push them hard nearing 4 digit levels. The splayed bottom end holds up pretty good its the decks and cyl walls we've always had problems with.
@@EllweinEnginesmy old man was using 400 blocks to make 700hp+ engines for dirt late model cars way back in late 80s early 90s. The last one he built for a friend still runs to this day. They actually used the 2 bolt blocks because the 4 bolt ones would wind up being weaker because not as much solid steel there. They were using extremely light crankshafts and internals so the force on the mains wasn’t as much as well. I’d imagine if it was heavier rotation the 4 bolt would be better.
@@stevenbelue5496Maybe it depends on the year and time era the blocks were casted? Id assume the gen 2 had better materials and some better metal vs older ones But Id guess maybe a current SBC1 from GM performance made and casted in recent times is as good? Not everything old is always good vice versa
@Thumper68 When it comes to the old 400 sbc blocks if you were running 400-500hp really didn't matter 2 or 4 bolt as with all gen 1 sbc's really, But if you start climbing to that 700-800hp mark the 2 bolt mains were the way to go, opposite with a 350 block.
Yes. I agree. I did not recommend that. I do think that people have fun doing whatever it is that they think is fun and this customer really wanted the AFR's to be ported even more. To each his own. I've don't plenty of (worthless) mods in the past myself. Not to say the porting was worthless but very low bang for the buck.
Good question. I don’t really have a “good” answer. Only one advantage is that the engine goes right back into the car it came from and can be plugged right back into the factory harness (and tuned by a good tuner). There are so many other stronger combinations available for the money (and LS1 heads are in another universe compared to LT1 heads) but now sticking to the LT1 has become the "different and unusual". Almost refreshing to see an LT1 in and LT1 car.
Could you talk about how you modified the SBC single plane to the LT1 heads? My current 383 LT1 build has a single plane, and the clearance on those inner bolts is awful.
That was it...the short header bolts. That was the only thing that fit there. But I also hand hogged the hole to give more bolt access. That actual manifold was machined for LT1 bolt access via Advanced Induction (for way back in the day) It was to match a cylinder head of theirs and they drilled and tapped the center holes to match the intake manifold so those center holes of the Gen 1 intake can be used. The other manifold bolt holes could be hogged out by hand if need be. TPV Productions has a good how to to make a Gen 1 manifold fit on a Gen 2 cylinder head (he does it by hand). th-cam.com/video/MJ_xd2pJe70/w-d-xo.htmlsi=X54mHKBVIp2FHPes
Interesting, I maybe have a different single plane intake, because currently I have to have the studs ran down into my heads, which are run almost flush with the intake, and then I put a nut on the very edge of the thread, then walk the stud back up. It’s a slow process, but my intake runners run so close to the LT1 holes that we couldn’t fit the stock LT1 intake bolts in there.
Probably not for quite a while. The owner still has to gather time and money to have it installed into his Pontiac Formula (My buddy Nabil will be doing the install). So probably when I do the street tuning for his car. A long time from now I think.
Yes and yes. that is my design Stef's oil pan. It will clear a stock Fbody Kmember. I would call Stan at Stef's for that pan and tell him you want the Ellwein spec LT1 oil pan.
Karl do you use a break in oil on the dyno runs when you build these engines? I recently have been watching Lake Speed Jr on his oil geek youtube channel and he stresses NOT to use synthetic oils during the break in as the riings need the friction to seal well and the friction modifiers in the synthetic oils hamper this. Your thoughts?
Sad part is an LS3 with heads and cam will make easily 550hp. On stock bottom end 600hp (at 7000) is pretty easy. I have an extra LT1 block (already fitted with 4 bolt billet caps) just trying to figure out if I'm going LT or LS... By the time I decide, I'll probably have enough saved for an LSX!
It's actually awesome that the LS has such good flowing heads. Sad part is that it's hard to decide on the swap. Keeping it original LT1 is always easier but swapping to the superior LS platform is hard to top.
The owner doesn't have anything out of the ordinary for cooling except the Meziere electric water pump and his stock fbody cooling system. That is usually all that is needed.
Hey I need some advice if you have time. I bought an s10 that already has a 355 sbc, AFR 227 64 cc heads, single high rise intake, and a 650 carb on it. It falls a little flat up in the rpm range due to the flat tappet cam. The block is an old single rear main sbc. I originally wanted to go LS but don’t have the funds to completely swap everything over. What are your thoughts on going LT or L31 so I can get a hydraulic roller and keep the top end parts?
@@alonzahanks1182 absolutely not. 650 Is just fine on a 355. I could step up to a 750 but it’s not going to matter with a cam that won’t carry past 6,000. Lol to you.
@@Gregoman89 im used to stock cams heavy duration loves more air period even made 305 get up and go but can only hit pedal 3/4 till it gets about 3000 rpm then i punch it all the way and all 350 trucks came with 850 Rochester only cam that didnt care about more air and fuel is 106 to 108 LSA tow truck or race car and that was old school pointed lobes with little duration I have 97 chevy lt1 with little 48 mm Throttle body the tb is what held it back on hp to 285 its actually 52 mm with 4mm idle air hole stock cam drilled it to 1/8th inch idle became 1100 at idle doable 1st gear topped out at 50 mph 1.5 to 2 sec 60 ft its now a 807 cfm tb goes to 65 mph in first and does 1.97 60 mph in about 120 feet in the time it did 60 ft it was 52mm 732 cfm it is 54.5 cfm 807 cfm at wot you are pulling vac if under carbed and 355 bore loves to make more HP and tork
with the AFR heads? Yes can do. Good news is that that AFR began to offer the AFR 227 head for the LT1 once again. So anyway...the crankshaft is $3000 plus and the AFR 227 are??? lets say around $2700. Then Jesel shaft rockers $1800. It's adding up fast. Lets estimate $15,000 (or more after all the little things add up). But you can email me and I'll give an official invoice estimate. Karl@EllweinEngines.com
@@EllweinEnginesThat crank is not needed, heck @ 600hp a scat 9000 series would be plenty strong enough. I've seen people, many people run that horsepower level with bone stock 3.48" gm cranks, spraying them with nitrous. So really no need to drop 3k on a crank unless maybe your running boost at over the 1k hp level. I've only ever seen one crank actually break and that was from an 8-71 sitting on top of a 383 with like a pro comp crank in it and it broke the nose of it off.
9 วันที่ผ่านมา
@@docsmallblock6584 I disagree, I track these cars, and the first 383 LT1 I built in 2001, not knowing it was Scat was China, broke into three pieces my first summer, NA, it only lasted a few months, plus it cost me over $500 bucks just to get it balanced add the cost of the $12,000 dollar engine, not the place to save a buck, I always use Callies and I used a Crower in my street car because Callie was so backed up because of that covid scam.
With E85 id be pushing customers into more compression. My 2017 Mazda Miata is 13:1 and runs on 93 Surely with newer fuels being better a E85 SBC withs lots of compression will run fine All motor Hondas are at 14:1 on E85
I hear ya. I'm going to switch to E85 for my personal impala SS with an F2 super charger. That will give me actual experience with E85 and tuning for it.
@@EllweinEngines The cooling effect also is what people forget not just being able to make more power. Its like having meth injection in a sort of way.
9 วันที่ผ่านมา
Yeah, my track car LT1 is 14:1 and my street one is 13.5:1 on 93 pump, between my attention deficit, and ad's every 30 seconds I couldn't really watch this video, I tried several times, did he give cam specs, or compression, brand of pistons?
@@moabman6803 Yeah, they think somethings wrong also, this engine is bullet proof as long as you keep the RPM's below 7,000, I have found a build that makes so much torque for such a long flat range nothing can hang with em off the corners and down the long straights, built right, very high compression, on pump gas is the secret, among a few others, I had no idea the capability of this car and engine when I chose to build one, the chassis on the gen 4's is very good also, very ridged, an absolute track monster, this car will run with the fastest production cars produced today, with ease, including the Camaro ZL1 equipped with the 1LE package, the production car all road racers are gauged.
That TQ Curve gets any flatter it will be a straight line.. HOLY COW! Nice build Carl !!!
Yeah, I think that long flat torque range is what makes them a better road racing engine, I road race these things all the time.
I use the Callies cranks also, they told me they thread the hole deep in the snout of the crank to get into the heavier part of the crank, because in the normal area it can cause distortion to the snout, raising the possibility of the snout breaking off, and yes, they should supply the proper bolt with the crank.
Beautiful work as always Karl.
Thanks.
I did a complete gen1 top end conversion on my gen2 LT1 for my Chevelle, it ran 11.5s NA, fun setup and project.
I converted it over to reverse cooling
I kinda like that idea. Thanks for mentioning that you did that and had success. There sure are a lot more choices for heads for Gen 1
VERY respectable numbers on this 410 cid. Well done, Mr Ellwein!
Thank you very much. Hopefully you see the Rippie today
Nice work! Very meticulous and very patient with your builds.
Thanks
My California overlords do not approve of your exhaust stacks, they will be sending a strong worded letter,sir.
Me on the other hand, FUCK YAAAAAAAA! Lemme take a hit
I’ve BEEN WAITING for this upload 😎👍
Man oh man Stevie...you tube has pushed this video and it may get as many views as yours (in a year or so from now). cool!!!!
Nice engine.
Certainly a good build.
Nice horsepower.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a great weekend.👍
Thanks 👍 You too
I love it. Now that my 331 Mustang is nearly done, I'll be preparing for the 383 LT4 swap. First thing, I need to have a base tune loaded onto my Torqhead ECU and my spare factory ECU. I want a stock ECU tuned just in case I want or need to go back to factory Optispark EFI. Should I call PCMforless or take it East Coast Supercharging (Which is only a hour drive away) to have a base tune uploaded? So far I'm leaning to PCMforless.
PCMforLess. That's my vote.
I always hold my breath when I watch one of your dyno videos's. Lol
Yea, me too, but not for that it might make "the most power" but for it might blow up. :)
@@EllweinEngines Lol
I like your car, nice hood, I build em for road racing, and drive em, they are very good at that too.
@@EllweinEngines LOL.., deep down you know better!
Awesome build 👀💪
Thank you 🤗 Ty
Great work. Maybe rebuild my lt1 someday.
I started using the Melling oil pump with a flanged pick up tube, I've never had a problem, is there one?
Nope. No problem with that flange/bolted on pickup. I like em too.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,amazing camera work inside the cyl ; watching the piston and valves..................
Thanks.
Not a bad number considering a barely fits intake not port matched. Maybe 625 with the port matched lt4 intake?
Yeah, I was trying to figure out what intake he had on there, it must be home made from a regular sbc, I bought a GM carburetor intake for the LT1 several years ago, just in case, I've never used it.
That's worth someone buying it. They aren't available anywhere now.
This is a very unique and awesome build, love it , I’ve been wondering this for a while now , is the Gen ll SBC block stronger then the Gen 1’s ? And do you have a better chance on clearancing a Gen ll LT1 block for a 4 inch stroke then you do a Gen 1 block ?
To answer the Gen 1 vs Gen 2 block comparison...I guess some Gen 1 blocks are actually better than Gen 2 but most Gen 1 (older) are not as good overall. Recently built a customer's GMPP 383 gen 1 small block Chevy and it was as good as the GEN II LT1. The 400 SBC gen 1 is certainly better the Gen II LT1. I would guess that neither block has an advantage for clearancing. All mostly the same bottom of the block area. For help with the 4" stroke clearance then smaller rod journals are a big big help.
@@EllweinEnginessorry karl but from my experience the gen 2 blocks are much stronger, ive seen more problems with the deck cracking around the head bolts on the gen ones, especially the 400's once you push them hard nearing 4 digit levels. The splayed bottom end holds up pretty good its the decks and cyl walls we've always had problems with.
@@EllweinEnginesmy old man was using 400 blocks to make 700hp+ engines for dirt late model cars way back in late 80s early 90s. The last one he built for a friend still runs to this day. They actually used the 2 bolt blocks because the 4 bolt ones would wind up being weaker because not as much solid steel there. They were using extremely light crankshafts and internals so the force on the mains wasn’t as much as well. I’d imagine if it was heavier rotation the 4 bolt would be better.
@@stevenbelue5496Maybe it depends on the year and time era the blocks were casted? Id assume the gen 2 had better materials and some better metal vs older ones
But Id guess maybe a current SBC1 from GM performance made and casted in recent times is as good?
Not everything old is always good vice versa
@Thumper68 When it comes to the old 400 sbc blocks if you were running 400-500hp really didn't matter 2 or 4 bolt as with all gen 1 sbc's really, But if you start climbing to that 700-800hp mark the 2 bolt mains were the way to go, opposite with a 350 block.
Hey Karl are you coming to the Issca nationals this year???
Yes. See ya there.
Less LSA probably make little more power. Nice build though for sure.
Long crank bolts were to stop snout failures back in the 90s.
Still helps prevent that problem today too, my Crower cranks are like that also.
A custom In House porting of 210cc AFR Heads? okay
Yes. I agree. I did not recommend that. I do think that people have fun doing whatever it is that they think is fun and this customer really wanted the AFR's to be ported even more. To each his own. I've don't plenty of (worthless) mods in the past myself. Not to say the porting was worthless but very low bang for the buck.
Why a lt1 block? Not knocking just wondering…
Good question. I don’t really have a “good” answer. Only one advantage is that the engine goes right back into the car it came from and can be plugged right back into the factory harness (and tuned by a good tuner). There are so many other stronger combinations available for the money (and LS1 heads are in another universe compared to LT1 heads) but now sticking to the LT1 has become the "different and unusual". Almost refreshing to see an LT1 in and LT1 car.
@@EllweinEngines thanks for answering that makes sense
That new LT1 block they had at pri was badass, for gen 1 or 2, an aluminum version would be the shit.
This is an LT1 channel. That’s why!
Matching numbers block increases value but that’s a lot of cubes out of that block.
So far your 383’s are the highest HP engines around for the LT1/LT4 I believe..
Great music.
Question on the lifters, do the GMPP come with the laser logos on them?
Yes. Exactly.
Great content
Thank you very much. Trying to give as much info as possible (and get the customer work finished at the same time)
Could you talk about how you modified the SBC single plane to the LT1 heads? My current 383 LT1 build has a single plane, and the clearance on those inner bolts is awful.
use short header bolts on those inner bolts… gives u a lot of extra room to get them in
That was it...the short header bolts. That was the only thing that fit there. But I also hand hogged the hole to give more bolt access. That actual manifold was machined for LT1 bolt access via Advanced Induction (for way back in the day) It was to match a cylinder head of theirs and they drilled and tapped the center holes to match the intake manifold so those center holes of the Gen 1 intake can be used. The other manifold bolt holes could be hogged out by hand if need be. TPV Productions has a good how to to make a Gen 1 manifold fit on a Gen 2 cylinder head (he does it by hand). th-cam.com/video/MJ_xd2pJe70/w-d-xo.htmlsi=X54mHKBVIp2FHPes
Interesting, I maybe have a different single plane intake, because currently I have to have the studs ran down into my heads, which are run almost flush with the intake, and then I put a nut on the very edge of the thread, then walk the stud back up. It’s a slow process, but my intake runners run so close to the LT1 holes that we couldn’t fit the stock LT1 intake bolts in there.
When’s the next vid drop on the 410? 😎😎😎💨💨💨
Probably not for quite a while. The owner still has to gather time and money to have it installed into his Pontiac Formula (My buddy Nabil will be doing the install). So probably when I do the street tuning for his car. A long time from now I think.
Thats a nice oil pan! What is the going price for one? Would it clear a stock k member on an Fbody?
Yes and yes. that is my design Stef's oil pan. It will clear a stock Fbody Kmember. I would call Stan at Stef's for that pan and tell him you want the Ellwein spec LT1 oil pan.
@@EllweinEngines what is the price for it?
Karl do you use a break in oil on the dyno runs when you build these engines? I recently have been watching Lake Speed Jr on his oil geek youtube channel and he stresses NOT to use synthetic oils during the break in as the riings need the friction to seal well and the friction modifiers in the synthetic oils hamper this. Your thoughts?
Yes, break in oil. I do what Lake Speed Jr. is recommending. Good info and stuff from Lake Speed.
Did 4 bolt main LT1 blocks come in any cars other than the C4?
Nope. Just the C4. Any engine that was a GM warranty "might" have received the 4-bolt main also.
Sad part is an LS3 with heads and cam will make easily 550hp. On stock bottom end 600hp (at 7000) is pretty easy.
I have an extra LT1 block (already fitted with 4 bolt billet caps) just trying to figure out if I'm going LT or LS...
By the time I decide, I'll probably have enough saved for an LSX!
It's actually awesome that the LS has such good flowing heads. Sad part is that it's hard to decide on the swap. Keeping it original LT1 is always easier but swapping to the superior LS platform is hard to top.
Luv get c4 vette LT1 engine rebuild by you Mr.ELLWEIN
cool. Thanks for your vote of confidence on my building skills
Less LSA probably make little more power.
How we cooling her?
The owner doesn't have anything out of the ordinary for cooling except the Meziere electric water pump and his stock fbody cooling system. That is usually all that is needed.
To bad Advanced Induction isnt doing SBC LT heads anymore
Those cars and heads were fast from AI
Amen. Maybe some day? Their quality was top notch and their cam design was second to none.
@@EllweinEngines Absolutely fantastic and everything they touched for the LT1 stuff was FAST!
Really? That sucks. I don't know why they would stop. Unless there cnc machines can't handle multiple engine platforms. Man what a bummer.
🎉🎉🎉
Hey I need some advice if you have time. I bought an s10 that already has a 355 sbc, AFR 227 64 cc heads, single high rise intake, and a 650 carb on it. It falls a little flat up in the rpm range due to the flat tappet cam. The block is an old single rear main sbc.
I originally wanted to go LS but don’t have the funds to completely swap everything over. What are your thoughts on going LT or L31 so I can get a hydraulic roller and keep the top end parts?
Many options but the 1st thing I though of was just doing a hydraulic roller conversion with your current sbc. You have the best heads definitely.
your carb is running out of air and falling flat 650 is 305 carb lol
@@alonzahanks1182 absolutely not. 650
Is just fine on a 355. I could step up to a 750 but it’s not going to matter with a cam that won’t carry past 6,000. Lol to you.
@@Gregoman89 im used to stock cams
heavy duration loves more air period
even made 305 get up and go but can only
hit pedal 3/4 till it gets about 3000 rpm
then i punch it all the way and all 350 trucks came with 850 Rochester
only cam that didnt care about more air and fuel is 106 to 108 LSA tow truck or race car and that was old school pointed lobes with little duration
I have 97 chevy lt1 with little 48 mm Throttle body the tb is what held it back on hp to 285 its actually 52 mm with 4mm idle air hole stock cam
drilled it to 1/8th inch idle became 1100 at idle doable 1st gear topped out at 50 mph
1.5 to 2 sec 60 ft its now a 807 cfm tb
goes to 65 mph in first
and does 1.97 60 mph in about 120 feet
in the time it did 60 ft
it was 52mm 732 cfm
it is 54.5 cfm 807 cfm at wot you are pulling vac if under carbed
and 355 bore loves to make more HP and tork
An Isky 292 mega cam (flat tappet) will rip right up to 7k with no problem! And has a sound to die for!!
Can u build me this same engine? I have a 96 Z28 but I want to use my stock intake manifold but port match it to the heads. Just need a price.
with the AFR heads? Yes can do. Good news is that that AFR began to offer the AFR 227 head for the LT1 once again. So anyway...the crankshaft is $3000 plus and the AFR 227 are??? lets say around $2700. Then Jesel shaft rockers $1800. It's adding up fast. Lets estimate $15,000 (or more after all the little things add up). But you can email me and I'll give an official invoice estimate. Karl@EllweinEngines.com
@@EllweinEnginesThat crank is not needed, heck @ 600hp a scat 9000 series would be plenty strong enough. I've seen people, many people run that horsepower level with bone stock 3.48" gm cranks, spraying them with nitrous. So really no need to drop 3k on a crank unless maybe your running boost at over the 1k hp level. I've only ever seen one crank actually break and that was from an 8-71 sitting on top of a 383 with like a pro comp crank in it and it broke the nose of it off.
@@docsmallblock6584 I disagree, I track these cars, and the first 383 LT1 I built in 2001, not knowing it was Scat was China, broke into three pieces my first summer, NA, it only lasted a few months, plus it cost me over $500 bucks just to get it balanced add the cost of the $12,000 dollar engine, not the place to save a buck, I always use Callies and I used a Crower in my street car because Callie was so backed up because of that covid scam.
With E85 id be pushing customers into more compression.
My 2017 Mazda Miata is 13:1 and runs on 93
Surely with newer fuels being better a E85 SBC withs lots of compression will run fine
All motor Hondas are at 14:1 on E85
I hear ya. I'm going to switch to E85 for my personal impala SS with an F2 super charger. That will give me actual experience with E85 and tuning for it.
@@EllweinEngines The cooling effect also is what people forget not just being able to make more power. Its like having meth injection in a sort of way.
Yeah, my track car LT1 is 14:1 and my street one is 13.5:1 on 93 pump, between my attention deficit, and ad's every 30 seconds I couldn't really watch this video, I tried several times, did he give cam specs, or compression, brand of pistons?
More compression and put it on E85.
Oh yea! 650hp plus maybe?
Put the pick up in the freezer overnight and it will go in without heating the pump
I'll try that next time. Thanks
pack it in dry ice for a quicker result? used to do that for injection molder bushings.
SPIT BLESS 😅
45 smacks for a stud what a (beeeeep) rip off
This build will not last long enough to do anything with it.
Spoken from experience? Do tell -
How long do you think it will last?
You are wrong, I build them for road racing, and they run for years, most reliable engine in the business, and I'm just killing the LS's.
Your doing something wrong if your killing ls motors.
@@moabman6803 Yeah, they think somethings wrong also, this engine is bullet proof as long as you keep the RPM's below 7,000, I have found a build that makes so much torque for such a long flat range nothing can hang with em off the corners and down the long straights, built right, very high compression, on pump gas is the secret, among a few others, I had no idea the capability of this car and engine when I chose to build one, the chassis on the gen 4's is very good also, very ridged, an absolute track monster, this car will run with the fastest production cars produced today, with ease, including the Camaro ZL1 equipped with the 1LE package, the production car all road racers are gauged.