ALUMINUM OR CAST IRON BLOCK AND HEADS?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2022
- JUST A RUNDOWN OF THE ADVANTAGES AND SOME OVERLOOKED ISSUES FOR THOSE WHO DID THE CHANGE AND THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR!
Obtw, I get numerous requests for technical advice and if interested, tex me @ 626 203 2712. Half hour to 1 hour+ rates are available. Most calls go over as posted and it is ok. US Pacific time zone.
Thank you kindly for 'enlightening' us all with your knowledge and experience.you Sir have gave me a whole different outlook of what setup to go with and your wisdom is very much appreciated.
Keep informing the people...
Thank you and glad to help you build a better engine to run all over!
I never considered the aluminum block vs steel rod growth before. Another great video. Thanks
Please keep doing the videos, I like it because i learn so much.
GOD BLESS YOU ALL.
I was trying to weight doing more highly technical videos vs. street oriented subjects and now I see more people want hard core info! Thanks for your support!
Your videos are awsome Ben I could listen for days when I was a young man we didn't have the internet and performance stuff was almost secret. I stuffed around with performance engines for years but I've learnt more in the last few years by listening to experienced like you. Thanks for sharing this
Great video...Thank you Mr Alameda !
Excellent video loaded with lots of information. Aluminum blocks have their place, and as you stated, max power usually requires iron blocks.
Love all your videos , Thanks Ben .
I appreciate that and thanks for your support!
Always been cast iron for me. If I had a racing car and raced it, I would want aluminum, as the light weight might give me an edge, but for a street driven car, the durability of cast iron makes it a slam dunk.
You got that right sir.
Another great video Ben
Very informative, thanks. I’ll have to put a lot of thought into my 351w/427 engine dart has an aluminum block versus the shp. This is great information will save it fall back on
I will post a build on an aluminum block as well and that should be interesting when we finally go to the dyno. Thanks for your support of my channel.
Love them , thankyou. very interesting tech from a guy who knows. good stuff.
Thanks!
Thanks for video!
Killing it Ben, 3 videos in one evening :)
I was bored! lol Thanks for your support Chest.
Wow I’m glad I watch this I was about get a Aluminum block with 6125 hbeam rods L92 heads and scat crank 4.000 with diamond piston 4.005 with 8.5.1 but the block was a Gm Aluminum block ….. by watching this video I’m not sure thanks for the information
Love your videos Ben. I am learning a lot from them. Like the stories too. I learned that I ruined my afr 195s. Should have left them alone. 😢
Glad you like them and thanks for supporting my channel. What did you do that ruined your 195's?
Thanks for the insights on aluminum and steel or cast iron expansion and thermal efficiency differences. You mentioned a deck plate for longer stroke engines. I was contemplating this on my Jeep 2.5 engine but couldn't find any information on it.
Adding stroke is good specially for off road jeeps and trucks! There is no mistaking it helps low and mid range pulling power big time!
@@benalamedaracing2765 do you have any idea where to find info on deck plates?
Great info!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Another fantastic video... I never considered the thermal difference much, as everyone selling stuff thinks "light weight!” is always the answer.
I like iron blocks and heads for durable street use, since they're easier on head gaskets... But seems all the aluminum offerings for small blocks just flat out make more overall power on the dyno.
You are probably right because the iron heads are not as big or been researched as much as the aluminum versions which comes in progressively bigger and better flowing heads. I have done comparables and under 13-13.5 it seems equal flowing iron vs aluminum versions of Dart heads show I went quicker with better torque across the rpm range with an iron compared to aluminum. Anything lower compression than this ratio will make it even worse for aluminum heads.
@@benalamedaracing2765 so true... If you're in the market for good heads, seems there are 20 different aluminum heads available to each iron offering.
That cool..
Bolts are " splayed " Sir.
Ben, what kind of head would you recommend for a Ford 300 six? I can't find any options other than the factory casting. The engine is for a fairly light street/strip car. And will be using NOS. Thnx, Clayton
If I am not mistaken I thought I saw a swap of cleveland heads on a straight six years ago... I will see what i can find.
I was told a long time ago that I could get by with a .5 point of compression with Aluminum heads . I remember being told that some the guys would pour I don't remember what in there Aluminum heads to help with the heat loss on there race motor . Aluminum blocks and heads expansion I had some of that experience on my money pit Harleys. Many years ago when I was a kid I got a magazine from a shop that build chev engines and they started how much more power they made by raising the coolant Temps. All I ever got was pinging or worse by trying that . I did not have the good fuel they used I guess . So many learing experience lol.
Going from cast to aluminum means you can increase compression a full point. This said, they probably used good pump fuel and perhaps coated the chambers and piston tops for heat protection and retention for power!
@@benalamedaracing2765 We used to be able to buy 100 octane at the gas station. We haven't been able to since the early 70s. That makes all the difference.
Hi have you seen or had any experience with Speedmaster 351 engine blocks ?
We are really enjoying your videos.
Thank you🇦🇺
I think it was a Speedmaster block I worked on years ago. The lifter bores really had to be deburred and cleaned up because of the sharp edges all over. The engine made good power and held up very well more than what a stock block could have done! Thanks for supporting my channel.
Wish I had contacted you before I built my old school NA NO power adders or electronics SBC
What combination do you have now?
@Ben Alameda Racing 3150lb 64 Nova. Muncie with 2.52 1st gear. 33lb flywheel. 9.8 compression. 6.17 rear gear with 33" tall tire. Full roller cam duration at .050 261/265 lift 418/418. Lobe sep 105. Ran 11.90 115 MPH with this combination. Going to 12.1 compression this year.
I have in car video but not sure how to send
5:20 I think you mean to say this around the other way , eg. you can have
more compression ratio with alloy not the other way around like you said......
I did state that and what I was referring to was the "thermal condition" of going from aluminum to cast iron making the engine think from a "heat standpoint" it is approximately 1 full compression point higher. I always see many building low compression 9:1 ratios and putting in aluminum heads and they do get more power from increased airflow but from an efficiency point of view they took 2 steps forward and another step backwards as well. Thanks for your question.
Ben I may have missed it, but how much do you recommend I consider the quench changing(growing) with a NEW OEM 6.2l GM L92 production block, 4.000" 4340 forged crank, Molnar 6.125” H-beam connecting rods, ICON 4.065" 4032 pistons with 3.3cc valve reliefs, GM 821casting cylinder heads milled to 64cc chambers, and ARP head studs? I'm assuming zero deck clearance with a 0.041" MLS head gasket, netting 12.2:1 CR. I'm begining mock-up tomorrow.
Looks like you are good to go with that .041 quench and it will make the cylinder heads combustion chamber work that much better! That is an iron block correct?
@@benalamedaracing2765 no sir. I'm sorry I failed to mention that it is an OEM Aluminum block....
@@benalamedaracing2765 I was pleased with 0.041”. I had a hard time finding a piston manufacturer willing to talk to me about making me a piston with the top land higher than 0.260 from the crown. Most responses came in form of questionable laughs......
@@benalamedaracing2765 if the block were cast iron, but its aluminum. GM new production aluminum. Less dense than aftermarket I imagine.
@@arturozarate1752, you will get those types of top ring location with a custom made pistons! The reason the manufacturer will not do these is because of warranty issues. Many parts are designed with the "idiot proof" element engineered within to keep the careless and clueless from getting way off the tuning/ignition perimeters and damaging the parts and blaming the manufacturer!
👍🏽
LEARNED ALOT AGAIN BEN! SO.ILL HERE AGAIN MY MAN, AND WANT TO TOUCH BASE WITH YOU AGAIN ON MY SONS 03 GT 4.6 INTAKE PROJECT, AND I JUST WANT YOU TO KNOW, WE HAVN'T FORGOT YOUR INVITE ABOUT HIS INTAKE, SHOULD BE IN TOUCH PRETTY SOON BEN 😁 AND, I'M GOING TO PURCHASE A 66 GTO, ALL ORIGINAL, NUMBERS MATCHING, 389 TRIPOWER, 4 SPEED, 3000 ACTUAL MILES, WHITE ON WHITE COVERTIBLE, SNOW WHITE INTERIOR, AND GARAGE KEPT AND FLAWLESS BEN 😁 SO THEY SAY THESE DAYS, 2500 HP, MAKES YOU THE KING OF THE STREET THESE DAYS, SO......I'M GOING TO HAVE BUTLER PERFOMANCE, TO BUILD A 3000 HP MOTOR, WITH EVERYTHING AND ALL THE LATEST, WITH AN 871 BLOWER ECT 😁 WE LOOK FORWARD TO COME SEE YOU RACE AND MEET YOU BEN AND THANK YOU, FOR YOUR MILLITARY FAMILY AND FRIENDS ALSO! GOTA FINISH UP SONS MUSTANG FIRST, BUT WILL BE BUILDING MY DREAM WAR HORSE GOAT TO HMHMHMHM! JUST TOUCHING BASE BEN. SO.ILL AND FANS!! 😊
Keep in touch Carl and take care!
What intake is that in the lead in picture?
That is a sheetmetal custom built for a turbo engine.
@@benalamedaracing2765 thank You
So Ben, coating the combustion chamber, on an aluminum head, would decrease the amount of heat transfer? Combined with a coated piston dome, to do the same, would retain the heat in the combustion chamber. Would running higher coolant temperatures increase this retained heat?
For example: fuel injected street car running aluminum block and heads using a customer selected 160° thermostat. This particular engine would gain efficiency running a higher 195° thermostat.
The C5 corvettes would run 220 to 230 all day. I've assumed for years that the reason for this high operating temperature was to retain the heat....
The reason for the 180* is upwards of this temperatures the computer goes to close loop and uses other sensors to achieve an accurate engine perimeters for power emissions and efficiency. Coatings are there to retain heat in the combustion space so it becomes thermally efficient than without any kind of coatings.
@@benalamedaracing2765 my thoughts exactly. Thank you for the confirmation.