Ford Focus 2013 Heater Core pipe leak CHEAP FIX SAVE $$$
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2020
- You can save hundreds of $$$ or even more for this DIY fix. Do it in your own risk cause it’s a difficult fix due to the location of the heater core. Safety precautions should be in place. Put the car in a ramp or in a jack stand to raise the level of the car and it won’t be so hard for you kneeling down. Also cooling down the engine coolant to a safe temp maybe after 1 hr to avoid skin burn if the coolant is still hot. Once all safety measures are in place start draining the coolant in the radiator drain valve. Using electric ratchet in tightening the clamps to the hose will speed up the process. Hope this will help those owners of this model car in saving money for the fix or if you can afford just bring your car in the ford dealer and they will repair it and a new design heater core will be installed. It will be a one piece pipe now without a connection like the old design which you will see in the video.
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I've just done this today after finding the footwell soaking wet while hoovering the car - Brilliaint video mate , It was awkward and my back is f*****g killing me now but no way was i paying Ford over 1k to do it. Ended up having to use washing up liquid to lube the inside of some 22mm radiator hose to push the b*****d over the pipe, Persevere with it i had to take a breather every now and then as ribs were taking a beating leaning in trying to do it, But got it done in the end thank f**k! - UPDATE - 3 months down the line the repair is still sound bone dry no more leaks at all.
Thank you! The only video I've found that shows how to remove that side panel.
Chrispolo Batangueño thank you so much I’ve fixed my heater thank you is not enough god bless you sir! Mabuhay ka!!
That’s my goal here in youtube, to guide and help people with the same issue in this car type. Well done for fixing your heater pipe leak. God bless us all! Cheers
I’ve just done this today
I used 19mm but it is really hard job
Because the room is very small
Thanks mate for your video
Cheers
Legend.
Great fix. Easy to do and seems like it will last a long time.
Cheaper way and it has worked all year two bottles of radiator leak and put it in the anti freeze (coolant)...job done
Awesome , thanks for making this
Thank u for this video.I am having the same problem with my car. I can fix mine as you did yours
You’re welcome. Hope everything will back to normal after the fix. Just be patient if I can do it you can do it as well. Cheers!
Wow galing nman.👏🏼
Thank you buddy!
One has commented and was asking how to separate the two pipes apart. First what I did was to make sure the engine rests for a while and let the coolant cools down. Drain the coolant then proceed to disconnecting the coolant rubber hose from the engine bay. You can watch how to disconnect it from other you tube channel but it’s as easy as twisting the gray lock to the left maybe just a quarter turn and wiggle the heater hose and you can pull it out from the pipe. Now go back inside the car and remove the plastic clamp that holds the two pipes together and then push the pipe towards the engine bay half length and it will separate the two pipes apart. Keep an eye on the old o ring. This is the time when I lost it. Pull the pipe and you can now start putting the heater hose over the pipe starting from the straight end not the one one where the o ring is installed.
How to remove the plastic clamp?
Can I not just put the rubber hose over the pipe and put the clamps on it?
thanks for this, today i was quoted £780 by my local ford garage, when i stopped laughing i told them to give me my car back
It is very expensive having it fixed by ford. If you can do it by yourself why not there’s really a big savings. It’s been almost 1.5 yrs since I fixed it and I can proudly say I did it like a pro. Cheers.
Job well done 👍, And with this, I will be removing the two silly twist clips also in the engine bay that also have an o'ring.. This is stupidity at its best.. I will be running the hoses from the engine block and ,
1. Remove twist clamp fitting throw away. Hose clamp directly to pipe.
Option 2.. From engine block, Feeding the rubber hose directly through hole into the car & to the heater core, longer hose required, then hose clamp it, similar to above..
I just did mine 2013 ford focus i changed the o'rings was a little tight for space to work in but in the end i manged to put clamps back on and they are tight again
Great fix. Is $1000 through Ford in Australia or what country?
Hey mate I’m confused on how you disconnected the piping and put the hose over the pipe
How do u put rubber hose without remove heater core??
Disd u un clip the pipe from the engine bay?
Mines just gone today
Thank you! I just tried this for my ford focus, how long do you think that rubber hose will last?
You’re welcome! I used a good quality heater hose and i think it will last for many years. We can compare it to a regular heater hose connection in he engine bay. For me if it will last in four years I’ll be very happy already cause by this time I’m sure I will be replacing the engine coolant. During that time I can replace that heater hose again as a preventive maintenance. I’ll make an update video after 1 year to see if it will last in more years. Cheers
That hose repair will last 20 years, Ford obviously want the car to break down and be known as, unreliable.. it should of been done correctly before the production line even started..
Hey
Did you have to cut much of the metal pipe in order to put the rubber hose over?
I read people saying 19mm was too tight and they went for a 22mm instead did you have any issues?
Many thanks
Dev
It was a struggle putting the rubber hose over at first and almost ended up cutting the metal but what I did was pulled the aluminum pipe from the engine bay side. You need to disconnect first the heater hose so you can pull the pipe. Once out I used a silicone paste inside on top of the pipe and inside the rubber hose. I soaked the rubber hose in a hot water around a min then lubricate the inside of hose with silicone paste. You have to lubricate the other pipe in the heater core side. Use thick gloves after soaking the hose in hot water cause it will be hot and that’s the best time to put it over the pipe. Once hose is over the pipe put your clamps over the hose and insert the pipe on the other side of the firewall which is under the dash inside the car. Next I installed back the heater hose connection from the engine bay. Remember the hose clamp is a twist left to unlock and twist right to lock. Careful not to break the gray tabs. Go back under the dash and slowly slide over the half of the rubber hose to the other pipe (heater core side). Again silicone paste will help very well in sliding it over. This time it didn’t take long for me to slide it over. Feel it if the two aluminum pipes are joined together and start positioning the clamps and tighten it. Good luck bro patience is a must here cause of the tight space you are working on.
How did you get the hose on? A video on how you did that would be awesome. I was reading somewhere else to use 22mm hose, I assume it is very difficult getting the 19mm on?
Hi, sorry I don’t have a video while putting on the hose over but I will briefly explain it here. I used 19 mm hose and with a little lube like 3M silicone paste I was able to put the hose over the pipe. It will be very hard to do the step if you don’t remove the pipe from the firewall. First I did remove the hose connecting the pipe in the engine bay near the firewall. This way I can pull the pipe on the other side of the firewall which under the dash. I did this step cause I don’t have enough room to put over the hose in the pipe. You can try not to so you can speed up the process. At this stage i slid more than half of the hose length to that pipe and insert it back to rubber grommet in the firewall. Do this step under the dash. Use 3m silicone paste to lube the other piece of pipe. Make sure to set the clamps now to the rubber hose before putting it over to the other pipe. This stage you have to make sure the two pipes will now connect to each other though you can’t see it but try to feel the two pipes inside that hose you put on. All you need to do is tighten the clamps and reconnect the hose in the engine bay. Hope this one will help. Cheers
22mm is the way to go with a little fairy liquid
do you only need to remove the side panel & not any of the carpet to acsess the pipes ? what tool did you use to remove the panel ?
Panel only. No carpet to remove. Watch the video to see the tool i used. Trim remover tool Ty
@@chrispolobatangueno3667 ok thanks, do you have a link to buy the tool you bought ?
@@ORIGINOLINDIVIDUAL www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-door-trim-remover-set-5-piece/282096.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgKyA_9ya7wIV4J1LBR0WTwH8EAQYAyABEgLuSPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds. This is from Australia. Just look at the photo in the link and you can also buy it in any auto parts shop. Sorry I don’t know where your location is.
@@ORIGINOLINDIVIDUAL www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-hook-and-pick-set-4-piece/321711.html. These are mini pick set of four but it will do the job also.
@@chrispolobatangueno3667 did you use an oring on the pipe ?
Did you leave the plastic bracket on or you just used the heater hose? 1 year later do you have any issues?
EDIT: Btw I tried to use O-rings 17x2.5 and I could not bring the two metal hose together. But today I bought 17x2.0 and the hoses clicked in like a charm. I tested with heater fully on, and I let the car get to operating temperature. For now it works. I will update later what happened with these 17x2.0 O-rings. For now I will not reinstall the glove box and drive the car like that, so that I can monitor for leaks from the pipes.
Do you mean the plastic clamp which originally holds the pipes? No, I did not use it again cause it will be hard to install the rubber hose. 9 months had passed and no issues at all. Hope this one will help, thank you.
@@chrispolobatangueno3667 It does help for sure! If I cannot find the original O-rings in my country (Bulgaria) I will have to use the hose hack .. I tried with general use O-rings but the tubes just do not want to go into each other with them. Tried a lot of things - lube, put it on female hose, put it on male hose, put it on male hose half way true. The general use O rings are just too thick and the pipe cannot "click in", no matter ho hard I press. On top of that the plastic clips have aged for sure and are not holding as much as when they were new (car is 2005).
@@chrispolobatangueno3667 Hello. My fix with 17x2.0 is not working anymore. I have the coolant leak again! What size of pipe did you use for for your car?was it 19 20 or?
@@cenariusbg I used a 3/4" or 19 mm inside diameter if you were asking about the size of the rubber hose. I've shown the actual rubber hose at the end part of the video if you will watch it again. Hopefully you will be able to fix the leak. Mine after one year is still intact and not showing any signs of leak or any problem.
@@chrispolobatangueno3667 Thanks for the answer. I hope that I will be able to fix it as well!
How did you get that new rubber hose on ? Did you split the pipe open ?
Yes you have to split and remove the other pipe in firewall side.
@@chrispolobatangueno3667 my pipe on the firewall side needs to be replaced after I took console covers off both side ouch my bad 😞… thanks for advice tho
Do you know the size of the o ring …need to buy beforehand,once it’s off I won’t be able to get the the dealers
Based on my measurement it’s about 19mm. I saw it on ebay $60 plus shipping. It comes in two o rings and 2 plastic clips. Heater core coolant pipe seal O-rings and clips. Seller lewim19 (852). Has a 100% positive feedback.
@@chrispolobatangueno3667 thank you for the speedy reply 👍👍👍
It would have been nice to see you sliding the hoses on That showing us it finished how do you get that hose in between those 2 pipes what are you moving to make them go apart from one another without moving the heater cord Cause I'm sure you don't want to pry on them too hard or you'll break the heater core itself where the pipe goes in
@billeh3511. Sorry if it wasn’t filmed when I was doing that part. It was really very tight space and I don’t have someone with me to hold the phone to video it. I never thought it would be viewed by many. Anyway, the steps would be to disconnect the heater hose from the engine bay near the firewall. Doing this will give you the room to wiggle the aluminum pipe towards to the firewall when you are separating the two pipes inside the car. The other pipe connected to the heater core should not be moved or wiggled so much to avoid damaging the heater core. I have detailed explanations in some of my replies here If you could search. Thanks
Hi I have the same issue with my Ford focus and mechanic quote me $1000 to fix it. I am not mechanically sound but want to do it by my self. Could you please send me link of the other video how did you separate pipe and put that rubber and clamp everything if you have on your channel? Also are you based in Australia? Need to ask couple of more questions regarding ford focus..may be you can help me..Thank you for your video now I know how mechanic charge so much money..
This is the only video I have for this fix. I am not also a pro mechanic but through the years I just build my confidence in fixing my own car. It was a tight spot to video the actual removal of the pipe cause I am only using a phone to record it. If you could spend time reading the comments here from some of the viewers there I already discussed somehow the process that I followed. Once coolant has been drained and you are ready to separate the pipe you should start removing the plastic black clamp holding the two pipes. Go to the engine bay and disconnect the heater hose connected to that pipe. Go back inside the car and separate the pipes by pushing the pipe towards the firewall. Once the pipes are separated from each other you can now pull it out from the firewall . Put a silicone paste as a lube to easily put the rubber hose over the pipe and start sliding it from the narrow end of the pipe. Set your clamps over the hose also before reconnecting. Hope this one will help. I might miss some of the steps so please read some of the comments here to help you. Good luck and hope your car will be fixed soon. Cheers
Had to do the same for my 2012 Sport after Ford quoted $2500 for their fix which is replacing the whole heater matrix.
It’s been two months since and the fix is not going anywhere and everything is intact. I’d say it’s a permanent fix in cheapest way($25 - one meter coolant hose and clamps. Just cut the hose in proper length needed.) I’m not a pro mechanic just a weekend warrior and I fixed it. Good luck mate Cheers.
did you use an oring or just heater hose & clips ?
@@ORIGINOLINDIVIDUAL no because I can’t find one from the parts store. They don’t sell here by pc but if you can buy it look for AC/heater o-rings usually green color. Again just to note mine has no o-ring installed and still the fix was excellent.
@@chrispolobatangueno3667 i think im just going to copy what you did, i have bought some 19mm hose. how big was the space between the pipes when you put the 19mm hose on ?
@@ORIGINOLINDIVIDUAL i find it hard to put the hose over the two pipes if you are to do it under the dash. What I did was pull and remove the pipe from the firewall but you have to pull it from inside under the dash. After removing the pipe it will be easier to put the hose over including clamps but should be still loose. Then insert back the pipe to the rubber seal in the firewall then connect the two pipes and slowly wiggle the heater hose to slide over the other piece of pipe. Here the two joining pipes won’t be visible anymore so you need to make sure they are connected fully. Next tighten the clamps.
hi do you still have the car if so is the fix still working .thanks
Hi, yes I still have it and still driving fine. No signs of leak. I’ll try posting an update with this fix so I can really show that the fix is better than putting a new seal which in the future it will fail again and will leak. My fix is also not forever but I din’t think the hose will break in the next 10 yrs. If I’m not lazy I might post it soon and I’m busy in my job plus I got covid and recovering from it. Cheers
Bought replacement orings and plastic couplers off ebay 15 mins and done.
Just cut the plastic coupler put towel under the pipes quickly swap orings new for old in the grove some vasaline on orinigs push plastic coupler on its done you can get the replacement orings on there own and use the old coupler if you are carefull removing it. Piss poor design by ford why not have one continuous pipes.
@@SCARFACE-gp4fy is there any video showing the way to do this ??
Can you share a link to the right o rings and plastic couplers on eBay?
Why didnt ya just replace the o-ring from TCH and the little clamp that holds them, x2 new o-rings & x2 new hose clamps for around £20 as uve had to have apart anyway. unless u wanted a temp fix.
You can’t buy it during that time here in Aus. Ford don’t sell it and they will offer you a new assembly updated heater core unit without this connection. You can’t either buy it from auto parts here. Even from bay you can’t buy. Only last year I was able to see ebay is selling it now. But for sure my fix will last longer if you put it back with o ring and plastic clamp.
Did this job last week and it's a ******* bitch...
Take off centre console side trim - flat bladescrewdrive pop the clips
Take off trim under steering wheel ( end piece by wing mirror use flat blade and then 1 screw holding the trim and then clips under steering wheel )
Awkward parts now lol.....try and seperate the pipes . There's just no movement there at all ( i did not disconnect in engine bay as it's awkward as hell with the air con pipes in the way ) so i cut 1 with a dremel and then manadged to seperate the other . Took me about 2 hrs of pain and suffering tbh...
You now need 1 ft of 22MM pipe ( fck 19 it's too tight ) and 4 jubilee clips. Slide 2 clips onto each pipe and move them around out of the way by the centre console . Cut 2 sections of 4 inches roughly of 22mm and use some squeezy , fairy or Ky jelly lol whatever u got to lube those bad boys up and slide them over the top sections of pipe. This is hard as hell as you have no ******* room to move , it's do-able tho..( think of spending a grand on the matrix that will f******g motivate you !! )
Once the 22mm pip is on then rejoin the heater pipes , just below the join , one at a time lube the pipe and slide the 22mm down over the join so you have roughly 2 inches either side , open jubilee clips fully and slide 1 to top of 22mm and 1 at bottom and tighten rock solid . ( I used a stubby ratchet screwdriver with a 7mm nut bit , makes it easy , top pipe is awkward as you'll have clutch pedal in the way .....persevere !!
Top up water , run engine with top of expansion bottle and refill as and when ..heaters on hot setting ...
Time taken for me 4 hrs...cups of tea drank - 6 ( had to keep having rests as back was f******g hurting from the awkwardness ) swear words used - well over a thousand.
Good luck lads !
It’s really doable but a lot of pain in the as**. You were right I was motivated by the savings that I can get once I fixed the job. Another motivating factor is I’m gonna buy a new power tool from Milwaukee which I did Lol I’m so happy I’ve rewarded myself after all the hard work. Cheers!
Just to correct. Once the heater hose was disconnected from the pipe in the engine bay, pull the pipe from the inside of the car due to a bigger diameter end tip of that pipe where the leak is coming from.
Hi just wondering, do you have to remove the old rubber clamp on the heater core pipe , before putting the new hose around it, or ?
@@keziaisrael8300 if you are asking about the old clamp (plastic not a rubber) which holds the connection of the heater hose, my answer is yes. You won’t be able to use it anymore with this repair. Hope I was able to help you with this. Cheers
is it the left or right heater hose in the emgine bay you need to disconnet or both ? do you not have to drain the coolant if you disconnect the heater hose ?
@@ORIGINOLINDIVIDUAL left side heater hose from the engine bay to be disconnected only and you need to drain the coolant first before disconnecting. Cool down the coolant before draining to avoid injury. Thank you
@@chrispolobatangueno3667 why do we need to disconnect the heater hose from the engine bay?
Another useless video which doesn’t actually show how to split the pipes or fit the hose, what’s the point 🤷♂️