I never understood why they made the spline pitch on those aloris tool posts nine degrees when they could have made it seven and a half. That would allow easy indexing at fifteen,thirty forty five degrees. All common angles frequently used on lathes.
Deathtrap hubs.... 100+ years ago we learnt building wagon wheels with sharp inner edges instead of a smooth radius produced stress risers. These hubs were obviously designed without any engineer ever laying eyes on them
There is a reason why they don't make bike hubs from bar stock and instead use precision forgings. The bar stock will always crack, so they start with at least a forged billet.
These sharp inside corners will crack every time without fail. Just look at any hub ever designed and you'll see large smooth radius to prevent stress risers
I had a set of these back in the 90’s, went through them, american classic, bullseye and a set of ringles before I decided to go back to good old shimano xtr hubs. Never looked back, still riding them today. ( I know, I’m old now, ride like an old man and nothing breaks).
I've got a set of Suzue hubs on 1.25 Araya rims that have flown down a few 12 stairs and a million dirt jumps. Still HAUL ass and coast for eternity. Really nothing in the world like them anymore. The people that rode em know and they still demand a small fortune for old sets.
Oh Man, I am running a set of Nukeproof hubs...& now dreading if this happens. Not radial spoked but now I am spooked ! If I remember correctly Sheldon Brown (our East Coast Master) had nothing good to say about radial-spoked wheels. A three-cross technique adds "triangles" to the structure and therefore, more strength.
Amazing old school work. Nothing digital. All analog and precision numbered (engraved) indexing on all of his machines and tool. Then good-ole-handwork to finish the rest.
These 'nukeproof' hubs appear to predate the now standard practice of cold forging aluminum. I bet the design would have been a lot tougher if it had that and more deserving of it's name.
Great repair. I remember those Nukeproof hubs from the 90's and vaguely recall they came with a warning against radial lacing. Beautiful hubs though, even if they were a little flawed. I'm glad you were able to restore some!
@@Metal-Possum truth! It takes a really strong hub with strong flanges to handle radial lacing. Whole lot of extra beef needed just to save a little weight on the spokes.
@@tstodgell Shorter spokes can lead to stronger wheels. That said, radially laced wheels that I've had experience with didn't hold their tension well.
@@paulbrodie It was a dream of mine to won one, I absolutely love it! I have put thousands of kilometres on them and their warranty has been stellar. The only problem I might run into soon is 10sp and 135 spacing. If they are out of stock I guess I need a new frame.
Another gem of a video. Every time I'm surprised not more people have found your video's. I guess the're too busy watching those 'Dream Build' video's 🤷🏻♂️ By the way, are we ever gonna get a glimps of the mysterious Mitch…?
Yes there certainly are other videos that get a few more views... I posted a photo of Mitch on Instagram July 17, 2020. He was intently working on his frame in Framebuilding 101. That's how we met. Check out @brodie8191 Thanks for liking our videos!
Just came across your vids.Excellent to watch a craftsman doing his thing! Started watching this vid and had to go out,paused vid and couldnt wait to get back and finish it!!
Watching you press those sleeves on had me thinking of an old idea. I have an 2002 steel Lemond Wayzata frame built for 1" headset. Now like so many people I would love to use 1 1/8" on it. The interesting aspect is the internal double butting on the Wayzata head-tube was pretty thick, OD is ~35.84mm and ID of the butted section is ~29.99mm. So I got curious if I had the ID reamed out to 33.75mm (minimum for 1 1/8"?) would it work. The wall thickness would be pretty scary thin in the end at around ~1mm and even thinner when I account for paint. So, long story long, I want to ream it out and then either press or braze sleeves on the outside to create some make-shift external butting. Too stupid or fun non-sense? Let me know what you think.
Well, I have read you email several times, and it seems you want me to mock ou or draw your head set conversion, and then give you my opinioin. I just got put of chemo, again, and your job would take me about an hour, and I idon'thave an hour because now I an starting rehab.Sorry.You are going to have to figure it out yourself.
@@paulbrodie Well I do use imperial measurements for some things, so totally lost is an exaggeration. If someone tells me their weight in Kg's then I need to convert it to stone and I use feet and inches for height. I mean the small fractions of an inch where I would normally use mm.
Interesting how the product named "nukeproof" is actually the most broken hub I've ever seen. I remember these from my teenage BMX days. I only ever saw them in magazines, and still have never seen one for real.
It doesn't show on video but was original flange a cast part? I wouldn't think 6061 would crack or explode the way the hubs did and would expect 6061 the deform rather than break.. 7075 is a lot stronger but a bit more brittle so probably wouldn't be great for hub flanges? (I'm guessing you have a lot more experience with various aluminium alloys)
I believe the original was machined, not cast. And I don't know what grade of aluminum they used. They did try to make it too light. I would have chosen 7075 or 2024; they are both very good.
Are those those model F35 Nuke Proof hubs by any chance? nb Back in the '80s I'd be using "Skoda" as a pejorative model name but certainly not since the input from VW.
@@paulbrodie I grew up with Pratley adhesives as a kid in South Africa and brought a new packet of Pratley Steel with me when I immigrated to New Zealand, 18 years ago. Was very happy when I tracked the NZ re-sellers down as that packet has long since been used up. Man, you will most probably not believe what I have fixed and mended with this stuff over the years!
I would have to agree that the carbon is completely pointless here because the stiffness of the fibres do little to nothing in the radial direction and whatever tensile strength advantage it has is probably lost in the force it takes to break the glue off the aluminium part. I don't see any weight advantage either because it is so little material we are talking about. In a fork it is a different thing because the layout direction of the fibres and the weight saving is working for you. Great video none the less!
@@faafo2 I've seen a few carbon wrapped aluminum parts here and there over the decades. I have to imagine that if the engineers were excellent and they really spent a lot of time on it, then you would get some advantages out of the hybrid of the two materials. But yes, marketing is usually the reason it is done. Did nukeproof do it for marketing or actual strength/weight benefits? I don't know. I do remember seeing a lot of their parts when I was growing up. Also, just reminded me, I think there are carbon wrapped aluminum shaft arrows in the bow and arrow world. Made me wonder how they would actually perform if you throw away all the marketing wank surrounding them.
One of the few reasons forged hub shells are better than all that bling CNC stuff that has come and gone in waves over the years. Not to mention those hub flanges are dead flat with sharp edges... I wonder how many spokes they ate.
Had a Bici Hub from the old days, made for Norco by Whomever Shall Not Be named. Wouldn't adding a shallow cut with square edges for the c clip inside lead to a stress riser? Hopefully you won't need an indexing plate to drill the holes for the flange
I only did what was shown on the video. A shallow cut with square edges could be a stress riser, but in this case doesn't seem to be a problem. The issue was lack of material around the spoke holes. I used my rotary table to drill the spoke holes... Thanks for watching!
Would heat or solution treatment help that out? I had to make some milled dovetails and built myself an indexing plate with BTW, John here, friend of a certain Illingworth we both know. If you ever plan a reprint of your book, let me know. I have a lot of photographs going back to the original ToM race, plus the Kona Hell of the North on Seymour mt, the one on Cypress Bowl, with a few semi famous factory riders like Bruce Spicer for Rocky Mountain, Matt for DeKerf and even Wade Simmons when he was still wrenching at Robson Cycle.
@@weedmanwestvancouverbc9266 No, just start with a good grade of aluminum, then no need to heat treat. I still have a few copies of my book, and when they are gone they might be collectible because I have no plans for a reprint...
I was trying to show my apprentice how to do layouts for flanges. I was showing how to do it with math and triangles. His eyes glazed over. I almost had him in tiers when I showed him odd numbers of holes
These vids are great! Thank you for the small editing flourishes like the arrow showing the indicator hit "zero." What kind of rifle was next to the tooling cabinet? Love seeing all the cool stuff in the background!
Hi Paul, why did you drill that cross hole @ 5:50 ? It seemed like you pressed the sleeve over the hole, but I don't understand the purpose of that hole
The stress level at the tip of the crack is very high. By drilling a hole there the stress level drops so the crack won't grow any longer. It might not have been needed since the sleeve would reduce stress overall, but its a good idea because the crack would be hidden and you couldn't see if it kept growing.
7/8" looks a lot like the 1/2" bit one particular third year electrical apprentice used to open 4 of 20 axle lug holes to a loose 13mm...then it snapped, his wrist. If you measure twice your almost to safety, then you can ask the next in line. Sharing solid knowledge that's been honed through experience is and will remain TH-cam's finest. IR=E
I'm happy you asked. My comment is an insider joke really, except for the broken wrist part, that really happened and what a mess that turned out to be. I'll share both parts but first your question. I is the symbol for amperage A works well too in most of our continent not to be confused with Ayyy the Fonzarelli Lineman yell from the high voltage towers nor with eh, eh? R is another symbol easier to recognize for Resistance. E is the one for volts. Together, if JK Rowling was a trades person, would have a symbol that's easily recognizable by anyone who read all of that which was written before. I is the one that's out to get you (All That She Wants by Ace of Base started playing in my head) Amps is the current flow of electricity and is the truly dangerous part. Resistance is that which forces voltage to surrender part of itself in order to allow passage... no drinking of the entire bowl required. Resistance is the impedance to flow. Ohms is its most common entity. If you have enough ohms you'll become a superhero that cannot be vexed. E is Voltage which is often considered to be pressure but that's not as good an analogy as is Potential since it doesn't take too much relative pressure before whatever it is pops or, in the case of a person, you'll go to where you start to look good to squirrels. Voltage is the conditional superpower needed for getting a job started but it has a bank account that doesn't offer overdraft protection. The three work together as the basic formula of electricity. Voltage is equal to the Resistance multiplied by the Amperage. I R = E I are E I am E I'm Volts I'm an electrician. Ps. The standard half inch hole size in electrical devices is actually seven eighths of an inch in diameter. 0.5 inches is very close to 13 millimeters but many people in the early 70's were upset with the idea of converting to the metric system of measurement. Some shared theirs with their children even passing it along as an aversion. The apprentice I mentioned had been raised this way and had lost a basic feel for the spots where the Imperial and metric systems meet and share stories. I wonder 40 below or minus 40 or maybe negative 40? There's always the boiling point of water but they'll have to agree on elevation. I'll stop there. Nanu, nanu, everyone.
@@WireWeHere Well Jim, thanks for sharing all that! Electrical is not my strong suit, but you seem to have a good grasp. You have also won an award for the longest comment on this channel so far :) What that award is I have no idea... Thanks for watching!
hello, nice job. why don't produce hubs? maybe anterior ones with sealed cartridge and see how it goes.Based in your opinion, considering Chris Kings and other high quality hubs: the price it could be lower/fairer? What di you think?
@@paulbrodie I understand your point of view. I'm seeing your amazing videos! very good and original material: unique!. In particular regarding the vintage mtb products
I also have such a 32 hole Nuke Proof carbon fibre rear hub with a broken hub flange. The hub is otherwise in good condition, except for the crack. But I also think that a repair will be too expensive and uneconomical. It's a shame about these beautiful old hubs :(
@@paulbrodie I could even glue in the hub flange myself. All I need is a new flange like the one you made on your milling machine in this video. How much would it cost if you make a new flange for me based on the data you have on paper? Or don't you do that for private customers? Greetings from Germany ;)
@@paulbrodie I understand that. Thanks anyway and please keep up the great videos. Your bikes and parts are a legend among vintage bike collectors like me :)
Thank you. Over several years I've been building a few recumbent trikes for family and friends. I designed my own wheel hub but never machined one yet. So my thought was to use 7075 AL.
@@paulbrodie I'd just trim it out. Music is distracting, especially for musicians, but people with hearing impairments will really be suffering. There is no such thing as too much intelligibility.
@@paulbrodie also would note that in film and broadcast it is very rare that you will find music and dialogue on top of each other. Music in film is used to mask out the fact that the background sound is incomplete and all made up by a Foley artist, so where you have a documentary subject there is no practical requirement - you have perfect sync and real sound.
This is why I dont go for the expensive "nice" parts. They last just as long as the basic stuff. Who cares how pretty it is it will get mud and dust on it.
Eg, “XT hubs” being in the “region of best function vs cost?” While they aren’t especially cheap, they *do* work well. If you are planning on long, hard use, they might be wise. At least, that was my thinking during this latest build.
Great video as always! I've been wondering for a while how you would line up the offset to drill the holes on a solid hub (as in a standard all aluminum one piece hub) using a dividing head. Any ideas or would you go by sight? Also, any thoughts on how you would go about chamfering the underside of the hole to sit the spoke head? A video on making a hub would be amazing :)
Thank you. Using the rotary table, when all the holes are drilled on one side, you have to flip it around for the other side. At that point, I took my combination square and marked the centre of two holes on the undrilled side. Then I "eyeballed" the middle of those two scribed lines. It might be out a few thou, but works fine. Am I making sense? For chamfering the inside holes, I have a drill bit slightly larger than the spoke holes, and sharpened it to a 45 degree angle. That became my countersink. Where the other flange is located, I wrapped masking tape around the drill so as not to mark the other side. I just hold the hub in my hands with the drill in the drill press, just like in our videos!
@@paulbrodie Thanks Paul, that ,makes sense yes! I'm still not really understanding how a chamfer can reach the inside of the flange if the other flange is in the way? Maybe I'm missing something simple or being stupid here, it wouldn't be the first time :)
Or is it so straight forward as tilting the head and chamfering the hole at an angle to avoid the other flange? The spoke will pivot out anyway so the chamfer doesn't need to go the entire 360 degrees?
@@poreektik1320 I would hand hold the hub at a slight angle so the masking tape wrapped around the drill bit is slightly rubbing on the top flange. Make sense now?
@@poreektik1320 Yes, the hole is being chamfered at a very slight angle. The chamfer does go around 360 degrees, but with the naked eye it is almost impossible to tell the chamfer is at an angle. It works just fine!
Marketing, being 10/10, not matching reality, which slumps to a 1/10, 😲 Who'd have thought!? To me it looks like this hub is yet another case of the "make it lighter" obsession simply going too far. Nonetheless, Steve Mitchell's Trimble now has a much nicer AND sturdier hub. Also I watched you use that Pratley Putty I ordered some, mainly based on the "If it's good enough for Paul Brodie .... ", and I can then compare it with the myriad of other "best epoxy" samples I have used.
@@paulbrodie I'm not sure. I ordered it through the Australian Amazon site. Am I to think it may not be the same formula as the SA made item? I will be able to report on its short term efficacy in 1 or 2 days after it arrives, which should be in ~3 weeks.
@@paulbrodie I called Pratley's Australian distributor, which is about 5kms from where I live, and asked "Where is the Pratley product Cat. No: 87005 made, please?" The young lady told me, with absolute certainty, that the product is made in South Arica "....like it says on the pack." "Well, that puts that to rest then!" I thought to myself 😊 By the by, it cost me AUD16.95 (CAD16.70) for the 2x20ml pack.
@@-MacCat- I can't even remember how much I paid. It was over 20 years ago and I'm still using it. Great on aluminum, fibreglass, and some "other stuff".
why was it worthy of saving , with so much damage and needing so many parts should it not just have been thrown in the bin , and start again with a new one ?
I have to imagine someone was restoring a vintage bike and didn't want to just throw it away. Because I think those hubs are pretty old. I remember them from when I was a little kid.
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
I never understood why they made the spline pitch on those aloris tool posts nine degrees when they could have made it seven and a half. That would allow easy indexing at fifteen,thirty forty five degrees. All common angles frequently used on lathes.
Deathtrap hubs.... 100+ years ago we learnt building wagon wheels with sharp inner edges instead of a smooth radius produced stress risers. These hubs were obviously designed without any engineer ever laying eyes on them
There is a reason why they don't make bike hubs from bar stock and instead use precision forgings. The bar stock will always crack, so they start with at least a forged billet.
I don't believe the bar stock will "always" crack. You just have to design and build it strong enough.
These sharp inside corners will crack every time without fail. Just look at any hub ever designed and you'll see large smooth radius to prevent stress risers
I had a set of these back in the 90’s, went through them, american classic, bullseye and a set of ringles before I decided to go back to good old shimano xtr hubs. Never looked back, still riding them today. ( I know, I’m old now, ride like an old man and nothing breaks).
Shimano does make a good product..
I've got a set of Suzue hubs on 1.25 Araya rims that have flown down a few 12 stairs and a million dirt jumps. Still HAUL ass and coast for eternity. Really nothing in the world like them anymore. The people that rode em know and they still demand a small fortune for old sets.
Oh Man, I am running a set of Nukeproof hubs...& now dreading if this happens. Not radial spoked but now I am spooked !
If I remember correctly Sheldon Brown (our East Coast Master) had nothing good to say about radial-spoked wheels. A three-cross technique adds "triangles" to the structure and therefore, more strength.
I am not a fan of radial spoked wheels. Two cross is good, but three cross even better! 😉
Amazing old school work. Nothing digital. All analog and precision numbered (engraved) indexing on all of his machines and tool. Then good-ole-handwork to finish the rest.
These 'nukeproof' hubs appear to predate the now standard practice of cold forging aluminum. I bet the design would have been a lot tougher if it had that and more deserving of it's name.
I think you are correct. Thanks for watching! 😉
@@paulbrodie Thank you for the great content Paul!
@@jameshisself9324 Thank you James! 😉
Crazy to redesign nukeproof hubs ,I've never seen that before ,amazing work 👏 🙌 😀 you are a master
I always trusted in Hügi and Shimano XT/XTR. Guess wasn't such a bad decission.
Very good decision, I would say!
@@paulbrodie guess so, they run since the mid90s and the Shimanos still don't show signs of pitting in the bearings.
Hi Paul, one of the directors of Pratley is my neighbour. If you need some Pratley Steel i send you some from South Africa 🇿🇦
I still have a supply of Pratley glue I purchased over 20 years ago.
Just ask when you need some.
Great repair. I remember those Nukeproof hubs from the 90's and vaguely recall they came with a warning against radial lacing. Beautiful hubs though, even if they were a little flawed. I'm glad you were able to restore some!
Radial lacing tears apart a lot of hubs, Shimano wouldn't even allow it and their shells are forged!
@@Metal-Possum truth! It takes a really strong hub with strong flanges to handle radial lacing. Whole lot of extra beef needed just to save a little weight on the spokes.
@@tstodgell Shorter spokes can lead to stronger wheels. That said, radially laced wheels that I've had experience with didn't hold their tension well.
I love the variety on this channel, and the fact that your getting lessons from an absolute pro is outstanding! Thanks Paul and Mitch.
I have broken 3 Chris Kind flanges over the years. Standing behind a warranty and awesome customer service is what kept me loyal.
I like Chris King products.
@@paulbrodie It was a dream of mine to won one, I absolutely love it! I have put thousands of kilometres on them and their warranty has been stellar. The only problem I might run into soon is 10sp and 135 spacing. If they are out of stock I guess I need a new frame.
In another life, I would have been your apprentice. I love you work and covet your workshop. Great stuff.
Thanks John 😉
always a great night to relax and watch one of pro Paul's projects
Another gem of a video. Every time I'm surprised not more people have found your video's. I guess the're too busy watching those 'Dream Build' video's 🤷🏻♂️ By the way, are we ever gonna get a glimps of the mysterious Mitch…?
Yes there certainly are other videos that get a few more views... I posted a photo of Mitch on Instagram July 17, 2020. He was intently working on his frame in Framebuilding 101. That's how we met. Check out @brodie8191 Thanks for liking our videos!
great work of reciclying
I'm a fan of recycling. Thanks for watching!
Must be 30 years ago, I had a pair of them hubs, with rear hub 7-speed thread on freewheel, where the flanges popped. Those were the days...
hey Mr. Brodie, great to see you up and about doing your best..i too have nuke-proof,on my downhill, never had problems,,good too know,,tks..
Just came across your vids.Excellent to watch a craftsman doing his thing!
Started watching this vid and had to go out,paused vid and couldnt wait to get back and finish it!!
Excellent!
Watching you press those sleeves on had me thinking of an old idea. I have an 2002 steel Lemond Wayzata frame built for 1" headset. Now like so many people I would love to use 1 1/8" on it. The interesting aspect is the internal double butting on the Wayzata head-tube was pretty thick, OD is ~35.84mm and ID of the butted section is ~29.99mm. So I got curious if I had the ID reamed out to 33.75mm (minimum for 1 1/8"?) would it work. The wall thickness would be pretty scary thin in the end at around ~1mm and even thinner when I account for paint. So, long story long, I want to ream it out and then either press or braze sleeves on the outside to create some make-shift external butting. Too stupid or fun non-sense? Let me know what you think.
Well, I have read you email several times, and it seems you want me to mock ou or draw your head set conversion, and then give you my opinioin. I just got put of chemo, again, and your job would take me about an hour, and I idon'thave an hour because now I an starting rehab.Sorry.You are going to have to figure it out yourself.
Just install an externally cupped headset
Absolutely masterpiece. Perfect!
Thank you algorithm for finding this for me. Amazing engineering, I'm totally lost with imperial measurements though.
One inch equals 25.4mm! Thanks for watching :)
@@paulbrodie Well I do use imperial measurements for some things, so totally lost is an exaggeration. If someone tells me their weight in Kg's then I need to convert it to stone and I use feet and inches for height. I mean the small fractions of an inch where I would normally use mm.
@@krzysiu4003 Is a stone 14 pounds? I am from the UK, but can't remember.
I come from south africa so I feel very proud
It is good epoxy :) Thanks for watching!
I'm a machinist myself. Great job Mitch !
I used to sell these hubs. Owned a bicycle store back n the nineties. And had a hub break exactly the same way.
Yes, they do have a bit of a reputation..
Interesting how the product named "nukeproof" is actually the most broken hub I've ever seen. I remember these from my teenage BMX days. I only ever saw them in magazines, and still have never seen one for real.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
to be fair, they probably weren't subjected to any radiation.
Boy am I ever gonna stay away from these hubs !!
I had nuke proof hubs back in the 80s on my OFFROAD TOAD 🐸 didn’t notice any cracks
You were lucky 🙂
Amazing!
Holy lathe wizardry. Way to run that dial.
Brodie hubs! Up there with Chris King and Hope!
I've wanted to find a machine shop to recreate Flanges for broken Hope Hubs in the UK - this gives me an idea!
Brilliant enjoyed watching that 👍😊
Had to watch this again 😁
I have designed the ultimate rear hub and ratchet but someone else would have to build it.
Sounds good. Now you will have to find a fabricator 😙
You is Very whim, in Portuguese, Você é Caprichoso....Top
Nice work as usual Mr Brodie. Thanks.
It doesn't show on video but was original flange a cast part? I wouldn't think 6061 would crack or explode the way the hubs did and would expect 6061 the deform rather than break..
7075 is a lot stronger but a bit more brittle so probably wouldn't be great for hub flanges? (I'm guessing you have a lot more experience with various aluminium alloys)
I believe the original was machined, not cast. And I don't know what grade of aluminum they used. They did try to make it too light. I would have chosen 7075 or 2024; they are both very good.
Great work!
i im a bike mechanic. and i found u channel.!!
Excellent!
Are those those model F35 Nuke Proof hubs by any chance? nb Back in the '80s I'd be using "Skoda" as a pejorative model name but certainly not since the input from VW.
Sorry I do not know. I was helping out a friend. They are not my hubs :)
Pratley Steel is still available. Try your local auto parts store.
I bought a big box of it years ago, and still haven't run out.
@@paulbrodie I grew up with Pratley adhesives as a kid in South Africa and brought a new packet of Pratley Steel with me when I immigrated to New Zealand, 18 years ago. Was very happy when I tracked the NZ re-sellers down as that packet has long since been used up. Man, you will most probably not believe what I have fixed and mended with this stuff over the years!
@@theovanzyl7133 Pratley is Good Stuff!
So the carbon in the hub was just a sleeve, purely cosmetic? and my buddies wonder why I still choose alloy or steel frames.
It's partly cosmetic, but there is a strength factor too. I have a carbon fork; I do not have a carbon frame.
I would have to agree that the carbon is completely pointless here because the stiffness of the fibres do little to nothing in the radial direction and whatever tensile strength advantage it has is probably lost in the force it takes to break the glue off the aluminium part. I don't see any weight advantage either because it is so little material we are talking about. In a fork it is a different thing because the layout direction of the fibres and the weight saving is working for you. Great video none the less!
@@faafo2 Yes, marketing is at play here. Nuke Proof is different, and here we are discussing their product... Thanks for watching!
@@faafo2 I've seen a few carbon wrapped aluminum parts here and there over the decades. I have to imagine that if the engineers were excellent and they really spent a lot of time on it, then you would get some advantages out of the hybrid of the two materials. But yes, marketing is usually the reason it is done. Did nukeproof do it for marketing or actual strength/weight benefits? I don't know. I do remember seeing a lot of their parts when I was growing up. Also, just reminded me, I think there are carbon wrapped aluminum shaft arrows in the bow and arrow world. Made me wonder how they would actually perform if you throw away all the marketing wank surrounding them.
One of the few reasons forged hub shells are better than all that bling CNC stuff that has come and gone in waves over the years. Not to mention those hub flanges are dead flat with sharp edges... I wonder how many spokes they ate.
Had a Bici Hub from the old days, made for Norco by Whomever Shall Not Be named.
Wouldn't adding a shallow cut with square edges for the c clip inside lead to a stress riser?
Hopefully you won't need an indexing plate to drill the holes for the flange
No indexing plate, done with Math.
I only did what was shown on the video. A shallow cut with square edges could be a stress riser, but in this case doesn't seem to be a problem. The issue was lack of material around the spoke holes. I used my rotary table to drill the spoke holes... Thanks for watching!
Would heat or solution treatment help that out? I had to make some milled dovetails and built myself an indexing plate with
BTW, John here, friend of a certain Illingworth we both know. If you ever plan a reprint of your book, let me know. I have a lot of photographs going back to the original ToM race, plus the Kona Hell of the North on Seymour mt, the one on Cypress Bowl, with a few semi famous factory riders like Bruce Spicer for Rocky Mountain, Matt for DeKerf and even Wade Simmons when he was still wrenching at Robson Cycle.
@@weedmanwestvancouverbc9266 No, just start with a good grade of aluminum, then no need to heat treat. I still have a few copies of my book, and when they are gone they might be collectible because I have no plans for a reprint...
Larger Radii from flange to sleeve?
That would make sense, but in truth, I can't remember unless I watched the video again!
I was trying to show my apprentice how to do layouts for flanges. I was showing how to do it with math and triangles. His eyes glazed over. I almost had him in tiers when I showed him odd numbers of holes
Don't be too hard on a young apprentice..
Excellent video only that I put my Nuke proof in the trash can when the aluminum ring broke.
But it was a long time ago.
Sorry to hear.
These vids are great! Thank you for the small editing flourishes like the arrow showing the indicator hit "zero." What kind of rifle was next to the tooling cabinet? Love seeing all the cool stuff in the background!
I'm told it doesn't qualify as a gun, because it's only a .177 air rifle. Thanks for watching!
Hi Paul, why did you drill that cross hole @ 5:50 ? It seemed like you pressed the sleeve over the hole, but I don't understand the purpose of that hole
The stress level at the tip of the crack is very high. By drilling a hole there the stress level drops so the crack won't grow any longer. It might not have been needed since the sleeve would reduce stress overall, but its a good idea because the crack would be hidden and you couldn't see if it kept growing.
Tom answered the question very well. Your comment just showed up after 2 months...
Wow!!
I have the freewheel version of that hub in a box somewhere, I don't think it's cracked.
7/8" looks a lot like the 1/2" bit one particular third year electrical apprentice used to open 4 of 20 axle lug holes to a loose 13mm...then it snapped, his wrist. If you measure twice your almost to safety, then you can ask the next in line.
Sharing solid knowledge that's been honed through experience is and will remain TH-cam's finest.
IR=E
Jim I liked your comment. But am unsure of IR=E. I figure E is Experience, what is IR?
I'm happy you asked. My comment is an insider joke really, except for the broken wrist part, that really happened and what a mess that turned out to be. I'll share both parts but first your question.
I is the symbol for amperage A works well too in most of our continent not to be confused with Ayyy the Fonzarelli Lineman yell from the high voltage towers nor with eh, eh?
R is another symbol easier to recognize for Resistance.
E is the one for volts.
Together, if JK Rowling was a trades person, would have a symbol that's easily recognizable by anyone who read all of that which was written before. I is the one that's out to get you (All That She Wants by Ace of Base started playing in my head) Amps is the current flow of electricity and is the truly dangerous part. Resistance is that which forces voltage to surrender part of itself in order to allow passage... no drinking of the entire bowl required. Resistance is the impedance to flow. Ohms is its most common entity. If you have enough ohms you'll become a superhero that cannot be vexed. E is Voltage which is often considered to be pressure but that's not as good an analogy as is Potential since it doesn't take too much relative pressure before whatever it is pops or, in the case of a person, you'll go to where you start to look good to squirrels. Voltage is the conditional superpower needed for getting a job started but it has a bank account that doesn't offer overdraft protection.
The three work together as the basic formula of electricity.
Voltage is equal to the Resistance multiplied by the Amperage.
I R = E
I are E
I am E
I'm Volts
I'm an electrician.
Ps. The standard half inch hole size in electrical devices is actually seven eighths of an inch in diameter.
0.5 inches is very close to 13 millimeters but many people in the early 70's were upset with the idea of converting to the metric system of measurement. Some shared theirs with their children even passing it along as an aversion. The apprentice I mentioned had been raised this way and had lost a basic feel for the spots where the Imperial and metric systems meet and share stories. I wonder 40 below or minus 40 or maybe negative 40? There's always the boiling point of water but they'll have to agree on elevation.
I'll stop there.
Nanu, nanu, everyone.
@@WireWeHere Well Jim, thanks for sharing all that! Electrical is not my strong suit, but you seem to have a good grasp. You have also won an award for the longest comment on this channel so far :) What that award is I have no idea... Thanks for watching!
hello, nice job. why don't produce hubs? maybe anterior ones with sealed cartridge and see how it goes.Based in your opinion, considering Chris Kings and other high quality hubs: the price it could be lower/fairer? What di you think?
What do I think? I think you are asking me why don't I produce hubs? Because I am retired and have a TH-cam channel. Thanks for watching.
@@paulbrodie I understand your point of view. I'm seeing your amazing videos! very good and original material: unique!. In particular regarding the vintage mtb products
@@cirosmserpico3832 From 1986 to 2001 that's all I did: I ate, breathed and slept mountain bikes. I did write a book too.
@@paulbrodie really amazing your level of expertise. I'm sorry I found just now and not before. Have a nice day
@@cirosmserpico3832 Thank you CiroSM. The advantage of showing up late is that the video library is much more extensive :)
Where can we get a T-shirt like yours!!??
I have many T-shirts. Is there a particular one you are asking about?
I also have such a 32 hole Nuke Proof carbon fibre rear hub with a broken hub flange. The hub is otherwise in good condition, except for the crack. But I also think that a repair will be too expensive and uneconomical. It's a shame about these beautiful old hubs :(
Yes, if you are paying someone else to fix it, it could get expensive!
@@paulbrodie I could even glue in the hub flange myself. All I need is a new flange like the one you made on your milling machine in this video. How much would it cost if you make a new flange for me based on the data you have on paper? Or don't you do that for private customers? Greetings from Germany ;)
@@ganimed1976 Hello Germany! I am retired and the TH-cam channel keeps me very busy, so I am unable to help you. Sorry.
@@paulbrodie I understand that. Thanks anyway and please keep up the great videos. Your bikes and parts are a legend among vintage bike collectors like me :)
@@ganimed1976 Thank you very much.
Great content!
So the radiation logo didn't prevent the hub from cracking? Can't be!
Apparently, it did not help...
i have one of these nukeProof hubs on my current bike.
👍👌
With all the braking and pedal force, i think those flange will soon just spin from the CF
I think it will be strong enough.
The drive side will carry the pedal force, and the brakes are via the rim, so no problem with torque making it spin.
Woahh
Would 7075 work as well as 6061.?
7075 would be the best choice; it is stronger.
Thank you.
Over several years I've been building a few recumbent trikes for family and friends. I designed my own wheel hub but never machined one yet. So my thought was to use 7075 AL.
@@barrystevens2780 Yes, 7075 is stronger. Just be sure to overbuild it a bit. Make it last, don't go for cool, trick, and skimpy.
You don't need the background music, especially when you are talking. It's just a distraction.
Mitch tells me he has lowered the volume slightly. Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie I'd just trim it out. Music is distracting, especially for musicians, but people with hearing impairments will really be suffering. There is no such thing as too much intelligibility.
@@paulbrodie also would note that in film and broadcast it is very rare that you will find music and dialogue on top of each other. Music in film is used to mask out the fact that the background sound is incomplete and all made up by a Foley artist, so where you have a documentary subject there is no practical requirement - you have perfect sync and real sound.
does anyone know if there is a video or instructions for removing the freehub on these nukeproof bombshell hubs?
I do not know, sorry.
+rep South Africa
Those Hubs cost a fortune and theyre worse than Koozer hubs from aliexpress ive seen races with koozer hubs in southeast asia
Nukeproof is a bad name for it
Have a dead Hope hub been meaning to fix 4 years........ok, ok, I know .I am lazy.....
Fix it... no more procrastinating!
This is why I dont go for the expensive "nice" parts. They last just as long as the basic stuff. Who cares how pretty it is it will get mud and dust on it.
Eg, “XT hubs” being in the “region of best function vs cost?”
While they aren’t especially cheap, they *do* work well. If you are planning on long, hard use, they might be wise.
At least, that was my thinking during this latest build.
Great video as always! I've been wondering for a while how you would line up the offset to drill the holes on a solid hub (as in a standard all aluminum one piece hub) using a dividing head. Any ideas or would you go by sight? Also, any thoughts on how you would go about chamfering the underside of the hole to sit the spoke head? A video on making a hub would be amazing :)
Thank you. Using the rotary table, when all the holes are drilled on one side, you have to flip it around for the other side. At that point, I took my combination square and marked the centre of two holes on the undrilled side. Then I "eyeballed" the middle of those two scribed lines. It might be out a few thou, but works fine. Am I making sense? For chamfering the inside holes, I have a drill bit slightly larger than the spoke holes, and sharpened it to a 45 degree angle. That became my countersink. Where the other flange is located, I wrapped masking tape around the drill so as not to mark the other side. I just hold the hub in my hands with the drill in the drill press, just like in our videos!
@@paulbrodie Thanks Paul, that ,makes sense yes! I'm still not really understanding how a chamfer can reach the inside of the flange if the other flange is in the way? Maybe I'm missing something simple or being stupid here, it wouldn't be the first time :)
Or is it so straight forward as tilting the head and chamfering the hole at an angle to avoid the other flange? The spoke will pivot out anyway so the chamfer doesn't need to go the entire 360 degrees?
@@poreektik1320 I would hand hold the hub at a slight angle so the masking tape wrapped around the drill bit is slightly rubbing on the top flange. Make sense now?
@@poreektik1320 Yes, the hole is being chamfered at a very slight angle. The chamfer does go around 360 degrees, but with the naked eye it is almost impossible to tell the chamfer is at an angle. It works just fine!
любо дорого посмотреть
Marketing, being 10/10, not matching reality, which slumps to a 1/10, 😲
Who'd have thought!?
To me it looks like this hub is yet another case of the "make it lighter" obsession simply going too far.
Nonetheless, Steve Mitchell's Trimble now has a much nicer AND sturdier hub.
Also I watched you use that Pratley Putty I ordered some, mainly based on the "If it's good enough for Paul Brodie .... ", and I can then compare it with the myriad of other "best epoxy" samples I have used.
Is the Pratley glue you ordered coming out of South Africa?
@@paulbrodie I'm not sure. I ordered it through the Australian Amazon site. Am I to think it may not be the same formula as the SA made item?
I will be able to report on its short term efficacy in 1 or 2 days after it arrives, which should be in ~3 weeks.
@@-MacCat- No idea. I was just wondering..
@@paulbrodie I called Pratley's Australian distributor, which is about 5kms from where I live, and asked "Where is the Pratley product Cat. No: 87005 made, please?"
The young lady told me, with absolute certainty, that the product is made in South Arica "....like it says on the pack."
"Well, that puts that to rest then!" I thought to myself 😊
By the by, it cost me AUD16.95 (CAD16.70) for the 2x20ml pack.
@@-MacCat- I can't even remember how much I paid. It was over 20 years ago and I'm still using it. Great on aluminum, fibreglass, and some "other stuff".
Great video but please remove the music.
I will talk to those in charge. Thanks for watching!
why was it worthy of saving , with so much damage and needing so many parts should it not just have been thrown in the bin , and start again with a new one ?
Bespoke hubs from the 1980s. One of the first CF mtb parts. Cost more than a Mavic/XT/DT wheelset iirc.
Not to speak for the Master, but I will. Because he CAN!
@@donabresch8719 thats hardly the case , or we would all be riding about on penny farthings .
I have to imagine someone was restoring a vintage bike and didn't want to just throw it away. Because I think those hubs are pretty old. I remember them from when I was a little kid.