@@tristengammon7844 I’m actually completely sold out. I have had an extremely large number of sales and orders recently. I made a form to give emails for relisting notifications forms.gle/Ym8yyC19hm4bhpSv7
I send endgrain cutting boards through my DeWalt 735 all the time with ZERO issues. Plain knives not a helical head. Two things 1) you need a carriage that backs the board w a sacrificial strip so the end of the cutting board doesn’t tear out and 2) take tiny cuts at slow speed. And change knives often- they’re cheap.
Yep - I said a few other times, I had it go right once. Then the “incident” occurred. And I never want that to happen again. So I use this and it take about 10 minutes to do both sides
@@jeffbuller6708 like I said - I’d rather do this and know it will be successful than do that extra bit and hope. This is just easier for me. Thanks though
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I'm all about making tools for specific jobs, that is a great idea though, recently I was making a roof beams for a wishing wel/well cover, for the yard, and had to do half cuts , on my 6x6 timbers, but a skill saw wouldn't get my half way , and the chainsaw, does make a good enough cut profile, but I'll tell you what, that ole router, did the job , also used a hand saw to make a profile and parameter. Sometimes when you thinking with out your wallet, it ends up, helping you out, and other people on down the road, just like your idea.
Ive sent plenty through without issues and even have used them to fix bowed boards and what not. I had one that was just a normal maple and cherry engrain board and for some reason the planer didn't like it and it sent it flying back out the fed tray in pieces. I'm so glad I always stand to the side of the machine because it could have been really bad. What's funny is I really wasnt even pushing the machine like I had several times before. I still occasionally do it for super thin cuts to just even out a face but if it's anything major I just use a router now and am much happier for it. It takes about as long and since I have a wider jig I can actually do large format stuff just as easily.
@@PiercesPerfectPiecesI never did for the longest time and in general I took super thin cuts and was very gentle with it but there were a couple times wherebthe entire board was cupped and it took big chunks out without issue. Then one time I had a very basic maple and cherry end grain board that was just getting a super small section planed that was just barley out and about 1/3 of it exploded and shor the board and the pieces flying back out the in feed tray. I'm lucky i always sand to the side of my machine but I'm really grateful I wasn't behind it.
Just put it through the planer. Save yourself a hassle and time of all the router nonsense. You can put end grain boards like whats in your video through a planer with ZERO problems. Not sure what youre doing that causes problems, but whatever it is, its obviously wrong. 100% user error.
😂😂 right, cause I’m the ONLY person who has experienced the planer explosion. It’s pretty common. You must be the chosen one since you’ve never even heard of it
You can send it through the planer. Glue sacrificial boards around it like a frame. It works fine every time. As long as you aren’t taking off a ton at once.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork yes. After 30 years in the industry we know that the technology has created better small motors. However, the duty rating for the Small routers is based entirely upon very limited rotating mass factor.
@@paulflynn2481 I had a dewalt trim router in one machine for 3 years. I replaced the brushes 2x. My newer machine works with a makita router. There are people I know who run it 8-10 hours a day and pulling in 3 figures a year on sales that their machine cuts for them. I think they have figured out the machine load at this time. Well, I don’t pretend to be a mechanical or electrical engineer, I do have the ability to listen and feel a machine as I use it. I have yet to experience an issue with the router in my jigs.
@@matthewmarotta2081 this is what I have been using and I really like it: AstraHP Coated* Whiteside 6210 Surfacing & Flattening CNC Router Bit 1/4″ Shank
The small one is plenty! And I’m working with a company who is now selling the flattening sled! If you go to Www.WeCNCthat.com and click on my avatar (Logan Newman) you can get one
I have sent literally 100s of end grain boards through my planner with a sacrificial board. I have never seen a board explode. But you do you my friend
I honestly don’t like doing that because I have to find a piece the right size, glue the piece on, wait for it to dry, hope it is flat, then cut it off and all that time I’m wasting another piece of wood. It’s just always such a hassle to me. I made this because it is fast and easy to set up and go. I don’t have anything against the gluing up method, it’s just not for me.
@@joepearson9704hi - the company went live with items last week! Here is a link for the sled: wecncthat.com/product/logan-trim-router-flattening-jig-w-universial-baseplate/
The pores of the Red Oak makes that wood a mistake for use on a cutting boards. Eventually the will fill with nasty odors or bacteria which will be almost impossible to clean properly
Thank you for posting that - I’m sure there re people who will need to know that. Thankfully there is no red oak in this board. This board is cherry, maple, walnut, and white oak, which is fine for cutting boards
What type router bit are you using? The one I have tried on my router creates A LOT of tear out and then I have sand for ours then the board isn't flat anymore.
I was using a cheap spoilboard flattening bit ($17) from amazing but I recently switched to this one from Amana ($34) and it has been amazing. I didn’t have tear out with the old one but the cut is faster and cleaner with the new one. Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit toolstoday.com/v-17673-45522.html
Ok thank you. I have been using a bit from amazon for $18. The first board it flattened perfectly but the three after that I have nasty tear out. Any other ideas what I might be doing wrong? @@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork
I'm surprised you don't get a bit of breakout on the edge from time to time, especially with the deeper cut. I guess you're keeping it shallow over all.
Not shallow, but not super deep either. I usually take a pass to flatten and a shallow one to clean up. But I also haven’t trimmed the sides yet and they will get a roundover. Doing both of those will clean up the sides as well.
Thanks! I’ve been successful going through a planer once. And then the next time it was terrible. I never want to have that happen again! 😂 this just works for me
I even made a purple heart and zebra wood end grain cutting board and all the planer did was chip up the last part of the board which I ripped off with my crosscut sled and table saw. And you can avoid that by gluing a sacrificial board to the end of the end grain cutting board.
End grain boards are harder, so they are better for chopping and not leaving marks and getting cut out. All boards are treated with something to make them food safe and prevent growth of bacteria or molds, so proper care of the board, combined with the treatment, does not make it more or less safe!
You sir, are a genius! I’ve made router sleds before and had bad results, but this took me 10 minutes to knock up and gave me better results than a planer. Had to come back just to say thanks for the idea!
You might want to consider adding a hard stop at the ends of that jig so it's impossible during normal use for the bit to cut outside where hands might be. Nice cutting board and tips/tricks! Thanks for sharing!
@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork It probably has to do with many factors, but the way toy did it is a great way . I do something simal to making trays with raised borders, and not to mention, a router is a cheap tool most people can afford, unlike a thikness plainer, which is kinda expensive for those just starting out 👍 definitly a usefull vid 😉
Almost every comment here is literally telling you that it is possible to send an endgrain board through a planer. Also telling you how to do it. Maybe you shouldn't have said, "you can't send it through a planer". I have a big CNC machine that will do what your sled does, but I still use the planer because it's faster. Any old scrap of sacifical wood can be glued on during the last glue up. Nice board.@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork
I used to use a cheap one from Amazon but then I got one from Amana and love it. It’s about $35. Here’s the name of it Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
I clean the glue off one side and put the most flat side down. When the top is flattened you flip it over and that side is flattened is reference to the other side
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork just to point out, I think it would still result in it not being 100% flat bc you are referencing the 'mostly" flat side. Admittedly it would be close enough not to to be noticeable in this application.
@@angymoshe once you have one side flattened and flip it you will then flatten the other side in reference to the first side. So it will be flat the edges may not be 90°, but the top and bottom should be coplanar
I have never heard of not being able to put an end grain board through the planer. That's interesting and I'll have to consider that. Only ever made edge grain boards.
Because the end grain of the board is too hard for the planer, and it tends to cause the piece to hit the blades and shoot back out or break. There are a lot of videos on ways to do it, but once it goes wrong you never want to do it again.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodworki am so glad i saw this video. I recently made an end grain that I sent through the planer and turned out fine, but maybe I just got lucky. Will it ruin my planer blades or just ruin the board?
A small flattening sled is a good idea. But I honestly can't see this being faster than a drum sander unless you have copious amounts of glue everywhere.
I guess it depends on the grit you have on there. With 120 being my usual go-to grit it would take me at least 15 minutes to get this done. With the sled it takes less than 10 to do both sides. It also costs about $1300 less
Honestly this may be quicker than sending it through the planer anyway. No shimming or hot gluing to a sled and waiting for it to dry then sending through and flipping. No doubt it’s safer too, great little jig for flattening small pieces!
You should do the first pass on one side, then first pass in the other side. With how you show it technically may not be directly vertical, could have a slight lean to it.
100% No. First, on end grain the hand plane will always have a hard time. It can be done, but you are not taking off much per pass. Secondly the card scraper is for taking off micro amounts. It would literally take you hours to do that on an end grain board
Doing it on the table does not make it flat per say. You left all the glue on which doesn't drip perfectly. If you loosen the clamps after couple hours I can scrape off the glue perfectly. Plus your pieces could of shifted as they do during a glue up.
This will 100% flatten the board and make the top and bottom coplanar. The jig rides on the table top and will flatten the board in relationship to that. The sides will not necessarily be perpendicular to the top and bottom if the board starts out at an angle. You are right that it is a good idea to clean up the glue because that will cause it to sit at an angle to start.
This is a great idea. If you don’t have money for a drum sander. And you don’t have 20 bored hours to orbit sand. I have a belt sander. Cheap from harbor freight. Then I have a couple belts, 60 grit to 320grit. And in 20 minutes of just sending the board back and forth across the top. Smooth board.
Nice - that’s definitely a solid way to do it! It’s more work than I want to do, and I know how bad I am at keeping belt sanders flat, but it’s all about what works for you!
It really comes down to what type of planer you get. A cast iron bed with a heavy head will be fine. Most of the lunchbox planners - like this one and smaller - lack the power to cut through the hard end grain. It will bounce around inside and pieces will break off and shoot out.
It’s so ugly when it happens! I started using the Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit toolstoday.com/v-17673-45522.html
I use the Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit It’s the best one I have found for a reasonable price
At 60 grit it takes 5 minutes. Then you will switch to 80 or 100 grit. Which will take 5 minutes. Or you stick to 100 grit. Which will take 15 minutes. This takes about 10-12 minutes. Either way - you are right that now everyone has $1400 for a drum sander.
I use a planer for end grain cutting boards all the time. I do glue on a waste piece of wood that is long grain. After planning I cut the waste piece off. All that to say this. I like your trim router sled.
Thanks man - I’ve just never had success sending them through the planer and, I’ll be honest, I just don’t like the extra work of gluing that piece on and then having to cut it back off. I hate wasting pieces of wood. 😂
@@mummsthaword1111 except that I don’t have to wait and then plane it. I just unclamp it and go. 🤷♂️ But we will all do what we are most comfortable with
@@mikep3813 parallel lines are coplanar to each other. But parallel is just a line, while coplanar refers to the entire surface area as being square, flat, or in the same plane as the table. Square just seemed the best word to use here in order to further complicate the matter
@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork parallel lines do not have to be coplanar. Planes can be parallel to each other, but cannot be coplanar....a plane is 2 dimensional and is infinite in size so two "coplanar planes" are in fact the just the same plane. You can have coplanar surfaces, lines or points. The bottom of your cutting board is coplanar to your benchtop, which in turn makes the top of your cutting board parallel to the bottom after machining with your jig riding on the benchtop. And square has nothing to do with anything you are doing here.
While I agree that it looks awesome, I'm not sure an endgrain board would work great. All it would take is a tiny bit too much force with a knife and you could accidentally split it along the glue seams, no?
No - the end grain refers to the end grain of the board being at the top and bottom, not horizontally. These are the preferred boards of millions of people and have been made forever.
At 60 grit it takes 6-7 minutes. Then you will switch to 80 or 100 grit. Which will take another 6-7 minutes. Or you stick to 100 grit. Which will take 20 minutes. This takes about 10-12 minutes.
@@Watchdog_McCoy_5.7x28 I made it for a reason. Feel free to Google end grain and planer and see what the results of that search yield. I made this because of the issues with it and a company approached me about a year later about making it and selling it for me
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I was only able to find the aftermath of it, but never the accident in progress. So yea, maybe something cool to see for educational purposes. Anyway, thanks for the videos.
You can actually send an endgrain cutting board through the planer. All you need to do is to add a chamfer at the end of your cutting board and take light passes. This will avoid any tear out or "explosion".
I started using this one and love it Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
I'm struggling to reason how the board ends up square. Yes the router is true because it's based off the table via the jig, but isn't the workpiece wonky because of the excess glue? Isn't that the whole reason we're resurfacing it?
It’s a pretty simple idea. If you flatten one side, and it’s smooth, when you flip it over it flattens the other side in relationship to that first side.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork Okay I understand now. You mentioned sanding as the next step so I was under the impression you were showcasing a completed process.
BS, if you own a good planer ( not a lunchbox or table top planer ) you won't have problems, especially if you encase the sides. That little trim router is sketch, but sometimes you got to do the best with what you got
Oversize it by enough a o that you can can cut off your blowout which you should nomatter how you to reach finish size. This may not wrong but it is labor intensive. On you glueup you only needed to add a throwaway course. Easy peazy. Planer is still faster
I used to use a cheap one from Amazon but then I got one from Amana and love it. It’s about $35. Here’s the name of it Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
I have sent dozens of end grain cutting boards through a planer. None have blown up. Just glue some side grain sacrificial boards to the front and the back and take shallow cuts.
You can glue a piece of pine at the end of each side and pass it through the planer I do that with my walnut boards and they come out perfectly fine, without the pine they blow up lol
I did try it once and it didn’t work for me. I might have tried to take too much off. Honestly, at this point and with the number of end grain boards i do, I’m good with this setup
When your piece has uneven dried glue material on both sides you need a carriage or some sort of support underneath as you plane or router your first side. You have to make the rough underside "square to the table" with wedges/supports or you will remove more material than necessary from first side.
I sell these through my Etsy page now! newmanspecials.etsy.com/listing/1646706556
Do you have a video how you made the jig?
@@tristengammon7844 not this one, sorry!
How do I get one ?
@@tristengammon7844 I’m actually completely sold out. I have had an extremely large number of sales and orders recently. I made a form to give emails for relisting notifications
forms.gle/Ym8yyC19hm4bhpSv7
I need that bad.....just put my 1st cutting board together and had hesitation on running it thru my planer...glad I saw your video.
I send endgrain cutting boards through my DeWalt 735 all the time with ZERO issues. Plain knives not a helical head. Two things 1) you need a carriage that backs the board w a sacrificial strip so the end of the cutting board doesn’t tear out and 2) take tiny cuts at slow speed. And change knives often- they’re cheap.
Yep - I said a few other times, I had it go right once. Then the “incident” occurred. And I never want that to happen again. So I use this and it take about 10 minutes to do both sides
I came to say the same thing. Glue a sacrificial on and take tiny passes. The router sled is great if it won't fit through the planer.
@@jeffbuller6708 like I said - I’d rather do this and know it will be successful than do that extra bit and hope. This is just easier for me. Thanks though
I was just thinking the same thing. Dewalt seems to work just fine. Just have to take very light passes
@@jeremyfugarino7901router for the win
Thats a great idea. ❤ finally a wood worker that owns normal guy tools, not the entire fest tools catalog.
Thanks! Making, or buying this, is about 20x cheaper than buying a drum sander or a cast iron planer!!
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I'm all about making tools for specific jobs, that is a great idea though, recently I was making a roof beams for a wishing wel/well cover, for the yard, and had to do half cuts , on my 6x6 timbers, but a skill saw wouldn't get my half way , and the chainsaw, does make a good enough cut profile, but I'll tell you what, that ole router, did the job , also used a hand saw to make a profile and parameter. Sometimes when you thinking with out your wallet, it ends up, helping you out, and other people on down the road, just like your idea.
@@LifestyleNotOfTheRichAndFamous that’s a great way to do it and a great way of wording it!
Forgot to ask, what trim bit are you using?
What does FESTOOL have to do with anything?
I used this video to build this jig, just not adjustable, and it worked perfectly! Only took about 10 minutes to build. Thank you for this idea
That’s so great! I’m glad it was helpful!
I've never had a problem planning end grain cutting boards.
Some people are lucky. Once you have it go bad you never want to experience it again
That’s what I was wondering/thinking!! 🤔
I do it all the time after glue up & I’ve never had it "explode" on me! 🤔 🤷♂️
@@PiercesPerfectPieces that’s great! It’s pretty common
Ive sent plenty through without issues and even have used them to fix bowed boards and what not. I had one that was just a normal maple and cherry engrain board and for some reason the planer didn't like it and it sent it flying back out the fed tray in pieces. I'm so glad I always stand to the side of the machine because it could have been really bad. What's funny is I really wasnt even pushing the machine like I had several times before. I still occasionally do it for super thin cuts to just even out a face but if it's anything major I just use a router now and am much happier for it. It takes about as long and since I have a wider jig I can actually do large format stuff just as easily.
@@PiercesPerfectPiecesI never did for the longest time and in general I took super thin cuts and was very gentle with it but there were a couple times wherebthe entire board was cupped and it took big chunks out without issue. Then one time I had a very basic maple and cherry end grain board that was just getting a super small section planed that was just barley out and about 1/3 of it exploded and shor the board and the pieces flying back out the in feed tray. I'm lucky i always sand to the side of my machine but I'm really grateful I wasn't behind it.
Just put it through the planer. Save yourself a hassle and time of all the router nonsense. You can put end grain boards like whats in your video through a planer with ZERO problems. Not sure what youre doing that causes problems, but whatever it is, its obviously wrong. 100% user error.
😂😂 right, cause I’m the ONLY person who has experienced the planer explosion. It’s pretty common. You must be the chosen one since you’ve never even heard of it
You can send it through the planer. Glue sacrificial boards around it like a frame. It works fine every time. As long as you aren’t taking off a ton at once.
I’ve had a few people say that - I’ve done it but the extra work and wasted wood always irritated me. This is just easier for me at this point. Thanks
helical head planer does great job on decking the end grain. My question is, why do people use laminate trimmers beyond what the armature can handle
You mean like how they are used in all the smaller CNC’s?
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork yes. After 30 years in the industry we know that the technology has created better small motors. However, the duty rating for the Small routers is based entirely upon very limited rotating mass factor.
@@paulflynn2481 I had a dewalt trim router in one machine for 3 years. I replaced the brushes 2x. My newer machine works with a makita router. There are people I know who run it 8-10 hours a day and pulling in 3 figures a year on sales that their machine cuts for them.
I think they have figured out the machine load at this time. Well, I don’t pretend to be a mechanical or electrical engineer, I do have the ability to listen and feel a machine as I use it. I have yet to experience an issue with the router in my jigs.
Show what kind of bit are you using
@@matthewmarotta2081 this is what I have been using and I really like it: AstraHP Coated* Whiteside 6210 Surfacing & Flattening CNC Router Bit 1/4″ Shank
If you build a temp frame around it you should be able to send it through the planer without any blowouts, either way works. It turned out great.
Thanks! Many ways to skin a cat, right!? 🙌🙌
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork yep lol, and you're welcome.
@@bigtonka82 🙌🙌
Did you use red oak for end grain cutting board?
@@tkorkunckaya no, that’s white oak. Red oak end grain is much larger and that acts as a reservoir for bacterial growth.
Wow very cool, loved wood working.
Enjoyed your idea
Thank you! 🙌
Add sacrificial pieces in front and back and send it thru the planer. Do it all the time. Only use a sled when its to big to send thru planer.
I’m honestly not a fan of doing it that way - I just prefer this method. Thanks
Thank you so much I was wondering if I had to get a really huge router or if I can use a smaller one
The small one is plenty! And I’m working with a company who is now selling the flattening sled! If you go to Www.WeCNCthat.com and click on my avatar (Logan Newman) you can get one
I have sent literally 100s of end grain boards through my planner with a sacrificial board. I have never seen a board explode. But you do you my friend
Exactly - do what works best for you. Thanks
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I'm going to make a jig like yours tomorrow and try it out. Looks handy for other things I do
@@PaulSmith-vn4lu it actually started out as a dado jig and then i used it for this and moved on to adjusting
Jus glue a sacrificial piece on the end and send it through thicknesses then cut it off on table saw. Much quicker and easier in my experience
I honestly don’t like doing that because I have to find a piece the right size, glue the piece on, wait for it to dry, hope it is flat, then cut it off and all that time I’m wasting another piece of wood. It’s just always such a hassle to me. I made this because it is fast and easy to set up and go. I don’t have anything against the gluing up method, it’s just not for me.
Could you send it through a planer with sacrificial ends glued on?
I’ve never done it, but I know people have. It’s just not my preference - this is easier for me
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork what works, works 🤙
@@Eric-469 absolutely brother!
do you have a link to the trim router sled build?
Not yet. It’s coming soonish
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork Cool. I'll be watching.
@@joepearson9704hi - the company went live with items last week! Here is a link for the sled: wecncthat.com/product/logan-trim-router-flattening-jig-w-universial-baseplate/
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork excellent. Thank you.
@@joepearson9704 glad to help!
I send them through my spiral head planer all the time with a backer board glued on no issues!
I honestly love to hear that - it’s never worked for me and I know so many people it hasn’t worked for so I’m very happy that you’re successful!
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork have you tried it with a backer board on a spiral head planer?
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I could see it exploding with a straight knife on a planer! Not enough sheer cut!
@@wcisean I haven’t
@@wcisean it’s bad
The pores of the Red Oak makes that wood a mistake for use on a cutting boards. Eventually the will fill with nasty odors or bacteria which will be almost impossible to clean properly
Thank you for posting that - I’m sure there re people who will need to know that. Thankfully there is no red oak in this board. This board is cherry, maple, walnut, and white oak, which is fine for cutting boards
Red oak is so full of tannins it'll never stink. Pores are irrelevant when you're dealing with end grain.
White oak is open grain too, I wouldn’t use it either.
They use white oak for wine barrels because it breathes.
What type router bit are you using? The one I have tried on my router creates A LOT of tear out and then I have sand for ours then the board isn't flat anymore.
I was using a cheap spoilboard flattening bit ($17) from amazing but I recently switched to this one from Amana ($34) and it has been amazing. I didn’t have tear out with the old one but the cut is faster and cleaner with the new one.
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
toolstoday.com/v-17673-45522.html
Ok thank you. I have been using a bit from amazon for $18. The first board it flattened perfectly but the three after that I have nasty tear out. Any other ideas what I might be doing wrong? @@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork
I'm surprised you don't get a bit of breakout on the edge from time to time, especially with the deeper cut. I guess you're keeping it shallow over all.
Not shallow, but not super deep either. I usually take a pass to flatten and a shallow one to clean up. But I also haven’t trimmed the sides yet and they will get a roundover. Doing both of those will clean up the sides as well.
Thank you!
Glad it’s helpful!
I have used a planer on all my end grain cutting boards, just go slowly and don't use a dull blade. Cool board!
Thanks! I’ve been successful going through a planer once. And then the next time it was terrible. I never want to have that happen again! 😂 this just works for me
Anyone thats used a planer knows its possible and feasible for this project. Just take a tiny bit at a time.
@@rl4889 I believe i already mentioned that it is, but this is faster and easier for me at this point
I even made a purple heart and zebra wood end grain cutting board and all the planer did was chip up the last part of the board which I ripped off with my crosscut sled and table saw. And you can avoid that by gluing a sacrificial board to the end of the end grain cutting board.
What kind of planer do you have?
Not gonna lie I thought e audio was Jimmy Diresta for a second there
I’m not upset about that! 😂🙌
Woodworker: takes 20yrs to make woodworking tools, then you can start😅
😂 I do like making my own stuff!
Why a end grain cutting boards, I’m literally asking wouldn’t that be more unsanitary since it can soak into the grain I mean I don’t know I’m asking
End grain boards are harder, so they are better for chopping and not leaving marks and getting cut out. All boards are treated with something to make them food safe and prevent growth of bacteria or molds, so proper care of the board, combined with the treatment, does not make it more or less safe!
Nah. Doesn’t look that great. But you did a good job.
You sir, are a genius! I’ve made router sleds before and had bad results, but this took me 10 minutes to knock up and gave me better results than a planer. Had to come back just to say thanks for the idea!
Love to hear that!! Thank you for letting me know!
After 100s through the planer no explosion, will keep planning, but good little jig!
If you clean up your squeeze out then wipe it down with a wet rag you can put it in a planer.
The glue has nothing to do with the planer. It’s the end grain and the strength of the wood
You might want to consider adding a hard stop at the ends of that jig so it's impossible during normal use for the bit to cut outside where hands might be. Nice cutting board and tips/tricks! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you - if I can figure out a good way to do it I will!
I have made lots of end grain glued cuting bords threw my plainer and jointer no issue
Ok. I’ve heard from people who have been good and others that have had the same issues.
@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork It probably has to do with many factors, but the way toy did it is a great way . I do something simal to making trays with raised borders, and not to mention, a router is a cheap tool most people can afford, unlike a thikness plainer, which is kinda expensive for those just starting out 👍 definitly a usefull vid 😉
I run all of my boards through a planer. It worked beautifully.
I’ve said several times that I’m glad when it is successful. I’ve heard far more stories not end grain not being successfully sent through.
Almost every comment here is literally telling you that it is possible to send an endgrain board through a planer. Also telling you how to do it. Maybe you shouldn't have said, "you can't send it through a planer". I have a big CNC machine that will do what your sled does, but I still use the planer because it's faster. Any old scrap of sacifical wood can be glued on during the last glue up. Nice board.@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork
what bit did you use? thanks.
I used to use a cheap one from Amazon but then I got one from Amana and love it. It’s about $35. Here’s the name of it
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork thanks!
@@blayne2029 glad to help!
I just surface mine on the CNC and go upstairs while it’s facing
Cool. Thanks for letting us know.
Awesome. How do you ensure the first side is flat when the dried glue and rough edges are on the table too? Doesn’t that make it uneven?
I clean the glue off one side and put the most flat side down. When the top is flattened you flip it over and that side is flattened is reference to the other side
This is the key point not mentioned in the short
@@user-dm1tv6nl2e I honestly didn’t think I had to make the suggestion to put the more flat side down and work on it from there. Sorry.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork just to point out, I think it would still result in it not being 100% flat bc you are referencing the 'mostly" flat side. Admittedly it would be close enough not to to be noticeable in this application.
@@angymoshe once you have one side flattened and flip it you will then flatten the other side in reference to the first side. So it will be flat the edges may not be 90°, but the top and bottom should be coplanar
I have never heard of not being able to put an end grain board through the planer. That's interesting and I'll have to consider that. Only ever made edge grain boards.
Yeah, it is ugly when it goes bad! I’m actually selling these jigs through a company called weCNCthat
I have a cutting board just like that gluing right now over the weekend why cannot send through
A planer
Because the end grain of the board is too hard for the planer, and it tends to cause the piece to hit the blades and shoot back out or break. There are a lot of videos on ways to do it, but once it goes wrong you never want to do it again.
An you show us how to make it please. I’m new
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodworki am so glad i saw this video. I recently made an end grain that I sent through the planer and turned out fine, but maybe I just got lucky. Will it ruin my planer blades or just ruin the board?
@@Davisbrog the potential is for both. Definitely will do serious damage to the board
You absolutely can send an end grain board through a planer just take small passes
Yep. I was successful doing it once. And then I wasn’t and I never want to have that experience again!
A small flattening sled is a good idea. But I honestly can't see this being faster than a drum sander unless you have copious amounts of glue everywhere.
I guess it depends on the grit you have on there. With 120 being my usual go-to grit it would take me at least 15 minutes to get this done. With the sled it takes less than 10 to do both sides. It also costs about $1300 less
Honestly this may be quicker than sending it through the planer anyway. No shimming or hot gluing to a sled and waiting for it to dry then sending through and flipping. No doubt it’s safer too, great little jig for flattening small pieces!
@@asoggyburger479 thanks! That’s my thought- and it’s easier to store!
What do you mean when you say:
"...to the table."
The sled rides on the table so you are flattening the piece relative to the table
Only if you have flat table.
I use a stationary belt sander that is 60 inches wide
A stationary belt sander? How narrow are your boards?
Cool jig. Beats doing it with a chisel.
Absolutely
It almost looks like flannel 👍
I can’t unsee it now! 😂🙌
You should do the first pass on one side, then first pass in the other side. With how you show it technically may not be directly vertical, could have a slight lean to it.
I’ll be squirting it up on the table saw, so I’m not really worried about it, but you are correct that it might happen!
low angle hand plane or a card scraper would probably do the trick faster
100% No. First, on end grain the hand plane will always have a hard time. It can be done, but you are not taking off much per pass. Secondly the card scraper is for taking off micro amounts. It would literally take you hours to do that on an end grain board
Doing it on the table does not make it flat per say. You left all the glue on which doesn't drip perfectly. If you loosen the clamps after couple hours I can scrape off the glue perfectly. Plus your pieces could of shifted as they do during a glue up.
This will 100% flatten the board and make the top and bottom coplanar. The jig rides on the table top and will flatten the board in relationship to that. The sides will not necessarily be perpendicular to the top and bottom if the board starts out at an angle. You are right that it is a good idea to clean up the glue because that will cause it to sit at an angle to start.
This is a great idea. If you don’t have money for a drum sander. And you don’t have 20 bored hours to orbit sand. I have a belt sander. Cheap from harbor freight. Then I have a couple belts, 60 grit to 320grit. And in 20 minutes of just sending the board back and forth across the top. Smooth board.
Nice - that’s definitely a solid way to do it! It’s more work than I want to do, and I know how bad I am at keeping belt sanders flat, but it’s all about what works for you!
Im an intermediate and have never had a planer before. But thinking of getting one. Can i get an understanding of why a planer cant do this?
It really comes down to what type of planer you get. A cast iron bed with a heavy head will be fine. Most of the lunchbox planners - like this one and smaller - lack the power to cut through the hard end grain. It will bounce around inside and pieces will break off and shoot out.
I sent my end grain cutting board through my 735 yesterday and it sent it right back to me. 😂
What router bit are you using?
It’s so ugly when it happens! I started using the Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
toolstoday.com/v-17673-45522.html
Can you show the bit? Or just get the widest that you can find? Asking for a friend. lol
I use the
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
It’s the best one I have found for a reasonable price
I am curious why you wouldn't just use a hand plane. Seems like it would be a little bit faster.
Are you being serious? Or is that a joke? It’s hard to tell over text
Instead of flipping all your strips one way ...flip every other one in other direction for a nicer finished pattern
I do that sometimes! I didn’t want to on this one though, thanks!
I have a board that looks like that but it started to separate from each other in the middle. Is there any way to repair something like this?
The only thing to do would be to cut it down the joint and then re-glue it. It’s pretty easy to fix
Really? You can’t do it with thicknesser?😳
It depends on your machine. Most of the smaller benchtop machines can’t do it.
“You know your machine you know your bits…” 😐🤨
Yes
drum sander would really take longer? i like the sled you made and it’s a good video but why lie?
At 60 grit it takes 5 minutes. Then you will switch to 80 or 100 grit. Which will take 5 minutes. Or you stick to 100 grit. Which will take 15 minutes. This takes about 10-12 minutes.
Either way - you are right that now everyone has $1400 for a drum sander.
If you put a piece of mdf or particle glued to an end you can send it throught the planer no problem
I’ve heard that, but I’ve never been successful with it!
It makes both faces parallel to each other.
I'm watching this while looking at my cnc that has a facing feature..
Yep. It’s good to have a CNC. Not everyone has one though
I use a planer for end grain cutting boards all the time. I do glue on a waste piece of wood that is long grain. After planning I cut the waste piece off. All that to say this. I like your trim router sled.
Thanks man - I’ve just never had success sending them through the planer and, I’ll be honest, I just don’t like the extra work of gluing that piece on and then having to cut it back off. I hate wasting pieces of wood. 😂
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodworkthis looks like much more extra work than gluing an extra piece on
@@mummsthaword1111 except that I don’t have to wait and then plane it. I just unclamp it and go. 🤷♂️ But we will all do what we are most comfortable with
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork you add the sacrificial board when your clamp up the last glue up. Waiting the same amount of time then.
I think you mean parallel not square
Because you do this on the benchtop that means it will be square? Square to what?
Square, or coplanar, to the benchtop
@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I believe you are thinking parallel to the benchtop.
@@mikep3813 parallel lines are coplanar to each other. But parallel is just a line, while coplanar refers to the entire surface area as being square, flat, or in the same plane as the table.
Square just seemed the best word to use here in order to further complicate the matter
@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork parallel lines do not have to be coplanar. Planes can be parallel to each other, but cannot be coplanar....a plane is 2 dimensional and is infinite in size so two "coplanar planes" are in fact the just the same plane. You can have coplanar surfaces, lines or points. The bottom of your cutting board is coplanar to your benchtop, which in turn makes the top of your cutting board parallel to the bottom after machining with your jig riding on the benchtop. And square has nothing to do with anything you are doing here.
I made myself something similar to this but for the life of me i cant get it consistent.
I'm sorry to hear that. Do you have any idea why? Does it sit flat on the table?
While I agree that it looks awesome, I'm not sure an endgrain board would work great. All it would take is a tiny bit too much force with a knife and you could accidentally split it along the glue seams, no?
No - the end grain refers to the end grain of the board being at the top and bottom, not horizontally. These are the preferred boards of millions of people and have been made forever.
Chamfer the back edge with a hand plane and send it through normal planer. It works fine
Could you set up a jig for a power plane? Makita or DeWalt
Maybe. It would be fun to try
That's cool.
Thanks!!
I put one through a planer and yes, it did explode 😂 hurt like a mofo
It is not enjoyable at all!
this will work better than my drum sander?
At 60 grit it takes 6-7 minutes. Then you will switch to 80 or 100 grit. Which will take another 6-7 minutes. Or you stick to 100 grit. Which will take 20 minutes. This takes about 10-12 minutes.
holy moly! thanks for such a detailed response at all, let alone so quickly. @@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork
@@Justin-fb7ni always happy to help!
Sent all my end grain cutting boards through the planer. No issues.
As I’ve said several times on here - I am very happy for you. Most people I know have not been so lucky.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodworkwell you’re the one who said you can’t do it. What did you expect?
@@mummsthaword1111 about what?
He's selling the jig. Obviously he wants to make money, so of course he'll say the planer doesn't work.
@@Watchdog_McCoy_5.7x28 I made it for a reason. Feel free to Google end grain and planer and see what the results of that search yield. I made this because of the issues with it and a company approached me about a year later about making it and selling it for me
The word you was looking for is parallel not squared
Definitely a better word
Could you find a video of a planer exploding? I totally believe you when you said it could explode, I just want to see it happen.
I don’t know - I’m not exactly sure that is something I want to have happen intentionally, but it is a good idea to try.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I was only able to find the aftermath of it, but never the accident in progress. So yea, maybe something cool to see for educational purposes. Anyway, thanks for the videos.
@@IceXiao I actually just got a new planer and might try this with the dewalt!
My first approach would be figuring what I have to do to run it through a planer. 😂
Couldn't you also use a Stanley no. 5 hand plane?
It depends on how many hours you have free
You can actually send an endgrain cutting board through the planer. All you need to do is to add a chamfer at the end of your cutting board and take light passes. This will avoid any tear out or "explosion".
It might be easier to use an old fashioned hand plane lol
Oh dear lord no. Definitely not
You can send it through a planer no problem at all, but this is also another solution if you don't have a planer 😉
What type of bit did you use to trim it down with?
I started using this one and love it
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
I'm struggling to reason how the board ends up square. Yes the router is true because it's based off the table via the jig, but isn't the workpiece wonky because of the excess glue? Isn't that the whole reason we're resurfacing it?
It’s a pretty simple idea. If you flatten one side, and it’s smooth, when you flip it over it flattens the other side in relationship to that first side.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork yes, but what about the edges?
@@leehurst172 They are square or not. Don’t you cut and square your boards when you are finishing them?
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork Okay I understand now. You mentioned sanding as the next step so I was under the impression you were showcasing a completed process.
@@leehurst172 sorry- I was just saying that the piece was ready to be sanded
......I'm just now learning I shouldn't put end grain through the planer.......should I be dead? 😬
😂 it is always interesting!
BS, if you own a good planer ( not a lunchbox or table top planer ) you won't have problems, especially if you encase the sides. That little trim router is sketch, but sometimes you got to do the best with what you got
Send them through planers all the time.
Just put it thru the planner.
No
Never had a problem and I’ve made dozens of end grain boards. Super light passes
Oversize it by enough a o that you can can cut off your blowout which you should nomatter how you to reach finish size. This may not wrong but it is labor intensive. On you glueup you only needed to add a throwaway course. Easy peazy. Planer is still faster
what kind of bit are you using on your router?
I used to use a cheap one from Amazon but then I got one from Amana and love it. It’s about $35. Here’s the name of it
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
Would appreciate if u could demonstrate how to cut circle. Cos I need teaching method to make a picture frame wth lighting on it. Thank you
I’m sorry - I just saw this! What size circle? I actually just posted a circle jig I made this past week
What about when you have a 3" thick 72" x 120" end grain island top that is 600 lbs? With no cnc!
Doing it to the table, it's going to be square.I don't understand
@@thewoodshop69 yes. It will be
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork don't you mean flat
@@thewoodshop69 maybe parallel to the table worked be the best statement
Drum sander is faster than this & by far less messy, but very cool jig for those who don't have a drum sander
Definitely less messy and a LOT cheaper! 😂🙌
I have sent dozens of end grain cutting boards through a planer. None have blown up.
Just glue some side grain sacrificial boards to the front and the back and take shallow cuts.
The shallow passes didn’t work for me. I’ll stick with this, since it does. Thanks
it’s all cutting boards with carpenters
It’s almost like people buy them so we have to keep making them
I use my cnc😊
You can glue a piece of pine at the end of each side and pass it through the planer I do that with my walnut boards and they come out perfectly fine, without the pine they blow up lol
I did try it once and it didn’t work for me. I might have tried to take too much off. Honestly, at this point and with the number of end grain boards i do, I’m good with this setup
Make a sled and send it through your planer. Has worked for me 37x. Cherry walnut and maple
It has not worked for me. I’ll stick with this. Thanks!
When your piece has uneven dried glue material on both sides you need a carriage or some sort of support underneath as you plane or router your first side. You have to make the rough underside "square to the table" with wedges/supports or you will remove more material than necessary from first side.
Absolutely! Unless your piece is relatively flat, this is always a good idea!