Note, none of these methods will work if you are using Rustoleum or Krylon lawn furniture spray paint products. You'll get most of it off but that stuff etches chemically into the plastic and will permanently stain the body. You can still primer over it but it won't ever go back to base plastic. Great video showing you results, just beware that LA and Super clean can cause some brands plastic to become brittle, this won't be a problem on vintage or Tamiya kits but can be an issue on modern recycled plastics used by used by Round2, Revell and others.
Break fluid bath awsome works good on chrome parts .break fluid sand the body first 320 grit then use the awsome soak that's I've done for old models.i restore alot of old ones
Great video, I have used both Purple Power and brake fluid, the brake fluid was about 30 years ago, I remember it working very well and taking Testors enamels (The old school stuff in the little glass bottles) off the model. The Purple power took several days of soaking on one of the paint strip jobs. I guess it also depends on the paint.
I plan on doing lots of tests with various paints and strippers. I now have a few spare model bodies to use for comparisons so might be able to start soon
Castrol Super Clean works real well, it will remove multi layers of paint. Use rubber gloves. It will remove the chrome plating also. Just put your parts in a container , pour in the Super Clean , and let it do the work.
Brake fluid for finish that has hardeners in it ! I try others first because brake fluid will tend to make the plastic brittle! Harsh chemicals like oven cleaner may work but tuff on the skin! This hobby is an experiment for sure 👍🏻! New Sub Bub! Thanks Cooper!🫡🏁🏆🏁ps this stuff cleans tires and white walls great !👍🏻
QCS Stripwell seems to be the best stripper I've seen it strip all of it safely inculding 2k and duplicolor, rustoleum,krylon etc. With out damging the plastic... Using the big cans of spray paint may save you money but they usally bite you in the ass later crazing cracking months to years down the line... I find its ok for chasiss and smaller parts as a black out underbody... But for a finish on the top of the body its alway a roll of the dice since all of the paint manufactures are try to comply with the ever changing rules of the EPA this is the root of why we now have so much paint incompatiblity... Find what works and stick to it... Models are not going to get any cheaper...and time is not on our side.
Im gonna have to keep an eye out for it and try it. And i use rattle cans for 2 reasons. 1 i have them around for many other projects (work on alot of different things out of my garage) and 2 because i dont have an air brush yet. I get everyones concerns with spray paints and maybe ive just been lucky but i havent really experienced the issues everyone brings up. One day i will but for now ill just keep trying things till i find a foolproof way that works great for me all the time
I use Scalecoat in the plastic bottle with the train conductor on the label. (get it at a well stocked model train store) Let it soak for a day then scrub with an old toothbrush then wash in warm soapy water. Stay away from the Scalecoat in the metal container it is for stripping metal models.
try oven cleaners, spray well vented area, wear mask and rubber gloves, place in covered plastic container, respray if needed, wait overnight, the longer you wait the better, scrub with toothbrush, repeat if needed, may leave some paint but that can be used as a primer. Ya, it's old school it stinks, and you need to take safety steps, but it can be gotten anywhere, no waiting.
The front states: NO ACID NO AMMONIA NO BLEACH NON-FLAMABLE The “warning label” states : WARNING: EYE IRRITANT So, not very caustic to skin. But let’s face it, almost EVERYthing is an ‘eye irritant’. I would use gloves, just to keep the residue off my skin.
I've been doing models for 40 years. Extra strength oven cleaner for paint and bleach for chromed parts. Let both sit overnight. Scrub with a firm toothbrush. Great job on your efforts. That body is ready for a second life.
I have heard that too. I do plan on comparing some oven cleaners aswell. Really my goal here is to find the cheapest and easiest way for absolutely anyone in the hobby to do lol
Note, none of these methods will work if you are using Rustoleum or Krylon lawn furniture spray paint products. You'll get most of it off but that stuff etches chemically into the plastic and will permanently stain the body. You can still primer over it but it won't ever go back to base plastic. Great video showing you results, just beware that LA and Super clean can cause some brands plastic to become brittle, this won't be a problem on vintage or Tamiya kits but can be an issue on modern recycled plastics used by used by Round2, Revell and others.
Cool video Cooper! Thank you 😎👍
It also works much better if you let it sit for about 2or 3 days paint just about falls off!!
100% correct today kits made in China are molded in recycled plastic there for you do not know how it will react to both paint and some strippers.
Toothbrush! An old toothbrush does a wonderful job. The bristles pull paint from the scribe lines and luvers on the the hood or cowl.
Break fluid bath awsome works good on chrome parts .break fluid sand the body first 320 grit then use the awsome soak that's I've done for old models.i restore alot of old ones
Great video, I have used both Purple Power and brake fluid, the brake fluid was about 30 years ago, I remember it working very well and taking Testors enamels (The old school stuff in the little glass bottles) off the model. The Purple power took several days of soaking on one of the paint strip jobs. I guess it also depends on the paint.
I plan on doing lots of tests with various paints and strippers. I now have a few spare model bodies to use for comparisons so might be able to start soon
I have used it before with awesome results, works the same for removing chrome
Castrol Super Clean works real well, it will remove multi layers of paint. Use rubber gloves. It will remove the chrome plating also. Just put your parts in a container , pour in the Super Clean , and let it do the work.
I will have to check it out
It's not working for me-I have a model that has 1K clear and it won't touch it-soaking for weeks
Old toothbrush works best for scrubbing because they get into the lines and cowl vents, wiper areas better.
Ya i just forgot to grab a couple when i grabbed cleaners but they are on the list lol
@@CoopersModelCarsjust don’t use the wives toothbrush 😫😝😝
Brake fluid for finish that has hardeners in it ! I try others first because brake fluid will tend to make the plastic brittle! Harsh chemicals like oven cleaner may work but tuff on the skin! This hobby is an experiment for sure 👍🏻! New Sub Bub! Thanks Cooper!🫡🏁🏆🏁ps this stuff cleans tires and white walls great !👍🏻
I need to order some. I have four car bodies with failed paint jobs that need stripped.
QCS Stripwell seems to be the best stripper I've seen it strip all of it safely inculding 2k and duplicolor, rustoleum,krylon etc. With out damging the plastic... Using the big cans of spray paint may save you money but they usally bite you in the ass later crazing cracking months to years down the line... I find its ok for chasiss and smaller parts as a black out underbody... But for a finish on the top of the body its alway a roll of the dice since all of the paint manufactures are try to comply with the ever changing rules of the EPA this is the root of why we now have so much paint incompatiblity... Find what works and stick to it... Models are not going to get any cheaper...and time is not on our side.
Im gonna have to keep an eye out for it and try it. And i use rattle cans for 2 reasons. 1 i have them around for many other projects (work on alot of different things out of my garage) and 2 because i dont have an air brush yet. I get everyones concerns with spray paints and maybe ive just been lucky but i havent really experienced the issues everyone brings up. One day i will but for now ill just keep trying things till i find a foolproof way that works great for me all the time
Works but---$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I use a one gallon Ziploc freezer bag and remove all air from it while soaking. It saves a bunch on cleaners. Not sure but it seems to work quicker.
Thats a pretty good idea and makes sense to me. Ill have to try that out aswell
I use Scalecoat in the plastic bottle with the train conductor on the label. (get it at a well stocked model train store) Let it soak for a day then scrub with an old toothbrush then wash in warm soapy water. Stay away from the Scalecoat in the metal container it is for stripping metal models.
I will have to keep an eye out for it
try oven cleaners, spray well vented area, wear mask and rubber gloves, place in covered plastic container, respray if needed, wait overnight, the longer you wait the better, scrub with toothbrush, repeat if needed, may leave some paint but that can be used as a primer. Ya, it's old school it stinks, and you need to take safety steps, but it can be gotten anywhere, no waiting.
I use the green stuff in an upright container. Non toxic, non caustic. Takes a few days
Which green stuff are you talking about. Id like to look for it and do a future comparison of it too
@@CoopersModelCars simple green. Some paint takes longer to remove but it hasn't failed me yet.
I will have to pick some up. Thanks for the tip! I appriciate it
Thank u for the tip I will try it thank u for sharing keep on building
No problem. It works really good. If you use a tooth brush in the solution you can probably have all the paint peeled in less than 12 hours
That stuff works great. Try a good stiff toothbrush or something similar and it will make it easier to come off. Nice job. I gave you a sub.
I just forgot to grab some tooth brushes when i was getting the cleaner but they are at the top of the list lol
Depends on the paint type
I cut it 1:1 with water and it still works well.
0:20 Here come the supervisors!😁
Always checkin on my work
i use a product called stripwell wet your body let it set 30 mtis wash it off reuse over and over i have done 40 cars and steel on the first bottel.
Use a stiff toothbrush and scrub it in the container then wash off with soap and water.
I forgot to get some tooth brushes when i was getting cleaners but thats definitely at the top of the list
I'll have to look for that here in the states.
Its definitely worth it in my opinion. Make sure to get a tooth brush for scrubbing and it will work better yet lol
spray on oven cleaner.. dot 3..super clean
I will be trying all of those in the near future and also going to do a video soon to see how quickly the LAs Totally Awesome works
Have a great paint job. 🖌
Seen your post on Facebook. New subscriber here nice channel
I use Pine-Sol to strip paint.
I've used L.A 's totally awesome- it works great!!, but be SURE TO WASH YOUR hands- it's VERY costic
The front states:
NO ACID
NO AMMONIA
NO BLEACH
NON-FLAMABLE
The “warning label” states :
WARNING: EYE IRRITANT
So, not very caustic to skin.
But let’s face it, almost EVERYthing is an ‘eye irritant’.
I would use gloves, just to keep the residue off my skin.
Put in under warm running water and use a toothbrush to remove the paint
I've been doing models for 40 years. Extra strength oven cleaner for paint and bleach for chromed parts. Let both sit overnight. Scrub with a firm toothbrush. Great job on your efforts. That body is ready for a second life.
I have heard that too. I do plan on comparing some oven cleaners aswell. Really my goal here is to find the cheapest and easiest way for absolutely anyone in the hobby to do lol
Totally Awesome also a great chrome stripper also.I’ve tried purple power not impressed.
I heard it works great for chrome too. And ive also heard many people arent too impressed with purple power either
Brake fluid works
I do plan on trying it out aswell to see how it stacks up against everything else. Does it have to be a specific DOT rating? Like dot 3 or dot 4
@@CoopersModelCars dot 3 is good
i use easy off oven cleaner, i am canadian ,lol near Toronto,Ont
I plan on doing some tests using it soon too. Do you prefer yellow cap or blue cap?
Also thanks for the support. Great seeing other canadians on here. Im over is Saskatchewan
blue cap but both work im sure@@CoopersModelCars
I used clean slate it's. A paint stripper for model cars
I will have to check it out. Where do you get it from?
eBay
Nah, I'm paying $1.99 American.
Use a old tooth brush on it.
Ya i just forgot to grab some for this but they are at the top of the list now lol
Pinesol..undiluted.
Ill have to try that out
Try using a toothbrush
I just forgot to get one when i grabbed the cleaners but its on the list lol
Strip Well "works quick but-$$$$$$$$-use a stiff toothbrush to get paint off
Ill have to check it out