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I'm new to this game , I tried playing with Xbox controller and mouse... I had lots of problems... I want remap my controls on my controller, any one know all the keys are used on keyboard so I can reblind my controls... I will be thankful for any help ....

Subbed. Interesting test. The colors look good in the video. I think it was a success 👍

After all these years, the thing that's most memorable to me.are the short funky jingles when a repair has been completed. Everytime I finhs something at work or home I always think of these jingles in my head.

Great video, I have used both Purple Power and brake fluid, the brake fluid was about 30 years ago, I remember it working very well and taking Testors enamels (The old school stuff in the little glass bottles) off the model. The Purple power took several days of soaking on one of the paint strip jobs. I guess it also depends on the paint.

You can get away with doing some in the cold if you bring in to dry like you did. But i would have been too afraid that could! Did i detect a Canadian accent?

Nah, I'm paying $1.99 American.

Love the sounds

Have a great paint job. 🖌

I've done this with Tamiya paint. With exception to the clear. I use the old floor wax for clear after decals and foil.

They both came out really nice... But I'm curious what will happen over time say a year from now will there be any crazing or cracking in the paint however minute... My experience with the big rattle cans is over time the paint reacts with the new modern plastic mix they use to mold kits in china with... Have you gotten any reactions 6 months too a year down the line?

spray on oven cleaner.. dot 3..super clean

Nice job if you want to put in ridiculous hours you could wet sand . I just want to relax and in joy my build without the stress of perfection cheers.

Nice video. One does not know the limits of anything without first testing, I found this very interesting.

I’d say not bad for a paint job that took just over an hour. I’m curious if it would look better with say a Tamiya spray can job? Nice work 👍

nice paint job.

In the body shop you let the base color flash (or dry) for half an hour then clear cote . Not supposed to wait more than 24 hours without a wash cote ! (1 thin cote of clear). That way you can tape it sand it etc… without messing up the metallics in your basecoat ! We call it nibbing the paint ie sand dirt hair or runs out if necessary before finish cotes of clear! 🤔🫡🇺🇸

👍🏽 great work, not sure if you wet sanded the primer but that helps it look flatter. Either way great video

Ive used Tamiya, placed the can in warm water for about two or three minutes, and gave it about an hour between coats, and let it dry 3 or 4 days before clear coating it. Also the kids got me a paint booth so I can vent the fumes outside and paint in my model room where its warmer.

rattle canned models when i was a kid had a 70 gtx engine orange spent a whole week 80 deg shoot wait day sand 1000 grit repeat for five days no clear over brown primer best model i put together as a 12 yr old😁🤩😎ps i hate painting in the cold you can put a gauge on the temp not the paint itself🤣🤪

Awesome 👍

i use easy off oven cleaner, i am canadian ,lol near Toronto,Ont

Great update just connected to you

That was amazing. I use spray cans also. In an apartment complex, and don’t have a spray booth. It can be just as good as a air brush if you sand and polish.

I painted many of the nuts, bolts, washers, a brackets for my '58 Pontiac (full size) by setting the parts and cans of paint and primer on the baseboard heater to warm (kind of scary hot). I then picked everything up and painted them out in the cold shop. Seemed to work real good. And no cans blew up!

Awesome!Now I know I can paint in cold weather. Thanks, Mike

There was a guy in a club I used to belong to that loved to paint outside in the winter especially when there was snow on the ground. His explanation was no dust, no pollen, just clean air. He would take it inside shortly after painting, and I'll admit that his finishes always looked good.

Heard of a space heater fool

@jaybaldwib398 good job !my question what is your paint of choice

I use the green stuff in an upright container. Non toxic, non caustic. Takes a few days

QCS Stripwell seems to be the best stripper I've seen it strip all of it safely inculding 2k and duplicolor, rustoleum,krylon etc. With out damging the plastic... Using the big cans of spray paint may save you money but they usally bite you in the ass later crazing cracking months to years down the line... I find its ok for chasiss and smaller parts as a black out underbody... But for a finish on the top of the body its alway a roll of the dice since all of the paint manufactures are try to comply with the ever changing rules of the EPA this is the root of why we now have so much paint incompatiblity... Find what works and stick to it... Models are not going to get any cheaper...and time is not on our side.

I use Scalecoat in the plastic bottle with the train conductor on the label. (get it at a well stocked model train store) Let it soak for a day then scrub with an old toothbrush then wash in warm soapy water. Stay away from the Scalecoat in the metal container it is for stripping metal models.

Put in under warm running water and use a toothbrush to remove the paint

Depends on the paint type

before applying your masking tape, trim both side of the tape, with a straight ruler, the stick stuff long the sides a track fuzzes stuff from sitting around and you won't get nice clean demarcation lines.

I use a one gallon Ziploc freezer bag and remove all air from it while soaking. It saves a bunch on cleaners. Not sure but it seems to work quicker.

Thank u for the tip I will try it thank u for sharing keep on building

I've always at least sat the hood up on a spray can lid or something. Sucks when the part gets stuck then leaves that leading edge of the hood all jagged when you have to rip the hood off the cardboard after its dried 😂

Hi, Over the years I have come to rely on Super Clean for most stripping needs. I always have some on hand. It also works on chrome as does Clorox. I tried Awesome, Chameleon and others. The one that I have never had any good results from is brake fluid. Some paint formulas are very difficult to remove and require prolonged exposure to Super Clean. If the paint is really stubborn, I have resorted to using an Air Eraser filled with baking soda. In recent years I have been experimenting with Createx brand paint products, which are waterborne. If you have an issue with the paintjob, it will usually strip easily in Super Clean. Have a great day. Larry Landis

Hi, Over the years I have come to rely on Super Clean for most stripping needs. I always have some on hand. It also works on chrome as does Clorox. I tried Awesome, Chameleon and others. The one that I have never had any good results from is brake fluid. Some paint formulas are very difficult to remove and require prolonged exposure to Super Clean. If the paint is really stubborn, I have resorted to using an Air Eraser filled with baking soda. In recent years I have been experimenting with Createx brand paint products, which are waterborne. If you have an issue with the paintjob, it will usually strip easily in Super Clean. Have a great day. Larry Landis

I use Pine-Sol to strip paint.

Castrol Super Clean works real well, it will remove multi layers of paint. Use rubber gloves. It will remove the chrome plating also. Just put your parts in a container , pour in the Super Clean , and let it do the work.

i use a product called stripwell wet your body let it set 30 mtis wash it off reuse over and over i have done 40 cars and steel on the first bottel.

try oven cleaners, spray well vented area, wear mask and rubber gloves, place in covered plastic container, respray if needed, wait overnight, the longer you wait the better, scrub with toothbrush, repeat if needed, may leave some paint but that can be used as a primer. Ya, it's old school it stinks, and you need to take safety steps, but it can be gotten anywhere, no waiting.

Brake fluid for finish that has hardeners in it ! I try others first because brake fluid will tend to make the plastic brittle! Harsh chemicals like oven cleaner may work but tuff on the skin! This hobby is an experiment for sure 👍🏻! New Sub Bub! Thanks Cooper!🫡🏁🏆🏁ps this stuff cleans tires and white walls great !👍🏻

Looking good

Break fluid bath awsome works good on chrome parts .break fluid sand the body first 320 grit then use the awsome soak that's I've done for old models.i restore alot of old ones

Totally Awesome also a great chrome stripper also.I’ve tried purple power not impressed.

I cut it 1:1 with water and it still works well.

Note, none of these methods will work if you are using Rustoleum or Krylon lawn furniture spray paint products. You'll get most of it off but that stuff etches chemically into the plastic and will permanently stain the body. You can still primer over it but it won't ever go back to base plastic. Great video showing you results, just beware that LA and Super clean can cause some brands plastic to become brittle, this won't be a problem on vintage or Tamiya kits but can be an issue on modern recycled plastics used by used by Round2, Revell and others.

Pinesol..undiluted.