Flex Seal is pretty amazing product. As you mentioned, getting the prep done right is critical to having a good result. Anyone I've run into that had problems with the product pretty much always turned out to be not doing the prep work properly. Your trailer came out absolutely beautiful! Congratulations on another amazing restoration.
Looks Great! My only suggestion would be to put split loom on all of your wiring. It's cheap, looks good, and provides a bit of safety for the wiring. ;-)
Nice restoration on that trailer. You definitely make them easy to sell to a new owner. Next time you paint over corrosion your wire brushed or wheeled prime it with a rust encapsulation product like Rust-Oleum's Rust Encapsulater. Just painting over it Flex Seal is just hiding the rust which can allow it to end up intergrainular corrosion. You see that when steel peels away in layers of rust. Just ask any Coast Guard or Navy Veteran who was a deckie that chipped paint and needle gunned rust on ships. We had classes on it at Aviation Machinist Mate A school.
Never would have thought to use flex seal on a boat trailer smart thinking should encapsulate the metal and keep it nice be nice to see how it holds up.
@@gsh341 What’s the trick to getting the spray-on liner to stick to galvanized? I cleaned and degreased a step I was adding to my trailer before spraying it. The coating flaked off in several places.
@@JT_70 I've never done bed liner on a galvanized trailer, but the trailers I've done I got them sandblasted to remove rust then washed and degreased them before applying the bedliner on bare metal. Galvanized metal is coated in zinc and zinc naturally rejects both paint and bed liner.
@@gsh341 in my opinion, he should have sand blasted and primed this trailer before applying FlexSeal. His final finish looked good but I’m concerned about it rusting thru the FS.
You should spray Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on the inside of the frame to stop any rust that already started. You may have to drill holes along the frame and then plug them when done.
Has flex seal got uv protect in the product.... I've used similar products and just top coated with a clear uv for added comfort... just me but I would of used a primer first then used the flex seal..... k for Christmas get yourself a cordless grinder with flap discs.... just had a friend do Bed liner spray on his trailer.... turned out amazing and he used a colour bed liner
Always thought that Flex Seal was more along the lines of a PlastiDip and not that permanent - I guess I learned something today. I'll have to consider it for my next DIY project.
Pressure treated wood is relatively inexpensive and handles getting wet fairly well, but if it comes in contact with aluminum it causes corrosion. When I replaced the bunks on my boat trailers I used cedar. Naturally rot resistant and no problems with corroding aluminum. It is softer and bends a bit, but if your supports aren't very far apart you'll never notice the difference
It appeared that the trailer came with 2x6 bunk boards which were replaced with 2x4s. For that length and weight I would have stayed with 2x6. I replaced the 2x6s on my tri-toon trailer with full-length pressure treated 2x6s and a different brand of similar plastic bunk covers. Given the weight of my 25’ boat I would not have trusted 2x4s to provide enough support. I had to special order the 24’ boards. I hope the FlexSeal holds up given the amount of rust under it.
Nice job. Although you should, at the very least, cover the wires in a plastic wire cover to protect them from road dirt and grime as well as UV light. It would also make them virtually disappear against the black trailer. Ideally the wires should be run inside the frame. with rubber grommets wherever the wires exit the frame.
Great job, the trailer looks great too. I do like how you put the lights on each bunk board on the other trailer. But like you said, the new one will function just the same. Happy Thanksgiving 🦃 🇺🇸👍🏻😊
The only issue I see is wherever you welded anything to the box section will tend to rust out from the inside . Outside looks pretty but inside will be rusty as hell ! Anywhere you sprayed it over existing rust I.e. the ladder will continue to rust underneath.
that is one thing i never had luck with is flex seal. had a camper and did the roof with white flex seal and less then 3 months had to redo it again because all the leaks came back. needless to say i couldn't get the roof to seal again after i put the flex seal on it so i put a tarp on it and will never buy it again
You should cross the wires on the LEDS (if they are RGB) so that one side is red the other green for Port and Starboard. it would also give some diffrent combinations scrolling through the other colours. 2x👍
It’s kind a pain to see the way you’re craftsmanship is Taking a turn. Maybe in Florida it’s another vision to how to deal with moisture. The way you treat you’re metal, the choice of wood, the way you wire things, the materials. All inferiority around. If I watch the comments a lot of people trying to nudge you in a better direction. Flexseal is a product which, used in a good manner, can be a plus. But just painting over active rust. That’s a no go. The wiring will be in contact with water, use better terminals which a waterproof (expensive) Use hardwood or aluminium for the beams, not just inferior wood and even worse encapsulate it in plastic so it can’t dry…. It’s good to have sponsors, but I think you took the wrong road. cheap plastic , cutting corners all around. Not good. I miss the Zach which shows his skills in a artful way, finesse etc. Hope he’s comin’ back soon… So no more pontoons (not again), and more little but artful mobility’s projects please.
Love all your builds! Just a quick question do the amber lights on the trailer need to be at the widest part of the front of the trailer and not on the tongue of the trailer. Just curious. The trailer came out so awesome 👌
Every trailer is different obviously and every country has different requirements. Andrew Camarata made a few great videos on rebuilding trailers and he gave good information on lighting them to America’s DOT requirements. Of course every trailer and country is different but in America, you just want to put each light in the most visible spot possible for its intended use. Amber lights need to showcase the front and back of the trailer as much as possible from sharp angles, tail light need to be as far to the left and right as possible. If the trailer is over 80” wide, it’s required to have 3 Amber lights approximately 1” apart in the back middle.
Didn't know Flexseal sells welding machines. The title should be "I fixed this trailer with a lot of hard work welding and replacing metal then sprayed it down with Flexseal".
Using a product like that can have the exact opposite effect you are trying to achieve. Living the rustbelt zone , we no longer use any undercoating on vehicles , as the coating traps water and rots the frame. By you coating with a rubberized product , when you submerge the trailer in salt water , the resulting outcome will not be good. This is why many have switched to cosmoline, fluid film, crc, sta-bil, rp-342, amsoil mp, and similar products. Best wishes .
Hmm.. this seems like a terrible idea.. cool you got a sponser but I don't think this is the right application at all.. good luck when that trailer eats itself out.
Flextastic repair! Looks good as new! 😎💪🔛
Hey flex seal
Where's phil
Where is Phil??
🤩
Thank you for sponsoring our guy!
Loving the Split Bunk Lighting. It's a smart and economical option! Looking forward to seeing this one complete soon, Great work!
Dude,I watch you because your creative,talented and have a backbone.Please keep it coming.Thankyou.
Flex Seal is pretty amazing product. As you mentioned, getting the prep done right is critical to having a good result. Anyone I've run into that had problems with the product pretty much always turned out to be not doing the prep work properly. Your trailer came out absolutely beautiful! Congratulations on another amazing restoration.
Looks Great! My only suggestion would be to put split loom on all of your wiring. It's cheap, looks good, and provides a bit of safety for the wiring. ;-)
Nice restoration on that trailer.
You definitely make them easy to sell to a new owner.
Next time you paint over corrosion your wire brushed or wheeled prime it with a rust encapsulation product like Rust-Oleum's Rust Encapsulater.
Just painting over it Flex Seal is just hiding the rust which can allow it to end up intergrainular corrosion.
You see that when steel peels away in layers of rust.
Just ask any Coast Guard or Navy Veteran who was a deckie that chipped paint and needle gunned rust on ships.
We had classes on it at Aviation Machinist Mate A school.
Never would have thought to use flex seal on a boat trailer smart thinking should encapsulate the metal and keep it nice be nice to see how it holds up.
I use spray can bed liner which does about the same thing. You can do it at home and it's super durable, though not really cheap.
@@gsh341 What’s the trick to getting the spray-on liner to stick to galvanized? I cleaned and degreased a step I was adding to my trailer before spraying it. The coating flaked off in several places.
@@JT_70 I've never done bed liner on a galvanized trailer, but the trailers I've done I got them sandblasted to remove rust then washed and degreased them before applying the bedliner on bare metal.
Galvanized metal is coated in zinc and zinc naturally rejects both paint and bed liner.
@@gsh341 in my opinion, he should have sand blasted and primed this trailer before applying FlexSeal. His final finish looked good but I’m concerned about it rusting thru the FS.
Carpet on my bunks is wearing out. Will give this gatorbak product a try! Great video! 🤙
You should spray Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on the inside of the frame to stop any rust that already started. You may have to drill holes along the frame and then plug them when done.
good work, enjoy your videos , especially the reconstructions, car , boats and trailed. keep up the great work
Has flex seal got uv protect in the product.... I've used similar products and just top coated with a clear uv for added comfort... just me but I would of used a primer first then used the flex seal..... k for Christmas get yourself a cordless grinder with flap discs.... just had a friend do Bed liner spray on his trailer.... turned out amazing and he used a colour bed liner
You do some great work keep it up, would like to see you loom the wiring.
Nice job on the ladder Zach.
Superior work as always. Looks great!
Really like the lights
Looks great, keep up the good work. You and your family have a great Thanksgiving.
Always thought that Flex Seal was more along the lines of a PlastiDip and not that permanent - I guess I learned something today. I'll have to consider it for my next DIY project.
Love the build. Good job as always
You should do some small boats restoration like thatboatguy channel, its amazing to watch
Great work
I wonder how long that flex seal will last though..
That's what I'm thinking. I feel as soon as you rub anything it will come right off.
Looks great. Nice job
Have you ever considered using POR instead of grinding all the rust off?
Why don't you use pressure treated wood?
He Said that he is using 2x4 preassure treated?
Pressure treated wood is relatively inexpensive and handles getting wet fairly well, but if it comes in contact with aluminum it causes corrosion. When I replaced the bunks on my boat trailers I used cedar. Naturally rot resistant and no problems with corroding aluminum. It is softer and bends a bit, but if your supports aren't very far apart you'll never notice the difference
Looks great! I have used flex seal in so many ways! Love the series, and all your videos!
Looks great
It appeared that the trailer came with 2x6 bunk boards which were replaced with 2x4s. For that length and weight I would have stayed with 2x6. I replaced the 2x6s on my tri-toon trailer with full-length pressure treated 2x6s and a different brand of similar plastic bunk covers. Given the weight of my 25’ boat I would not have trusted 2x4s to provide enough support. I had to special order the 24’ boards. I hope the FlexSeal holds up given the amount of rust under it.
looks great.
Great job Zac! Love this channel... great content as always :-)
looks great!
Always good work!
Nice job. Although you should, at the very least, cover the wires in a plastic wire cover to protect them from road dirt and grime as well as UV light. It would also make them virtually disappear against the black trailer. Ideally the wires should be run inside the frame. with rubber grommets wherever the wires exit the frame.
Great job I like it when you put lights on all of the I would but Hey
Question which aerosol paint can gun brand did you use w/ thick flex seal?
Awesome job, looks amazing!
Amazin videos as always Zach! I love the channel!
Great job, the trailer looks great too. I do like how you put the lights on each bunk board on the other trailer. But like you said, the new one will function just the same. Happy Thanksgiving 🦃 🇺🇸👍🏻😊
Looks great, but should the wires have some better protection?
I think it looks great !!
Looks great! How many cans did it take to cover the trailer?
Around 8 1/2
Not bad considering the size.
Should have used a rust converter before flex seal
Looks. Great
what about por 15 for the boat trailer?
This is awesome.
How many cans of flex seal did it take?
Hey, where did you get the square tube bender in previous video??
Flex Seal.... good stuff goes a long way...... 1 can to spray a whole trailer.....wow...... Where can we get it ???
My guy got a sponsor hell yeah
I may have missed it but how many cans of flex seal did it take for the trailer?
The only issue I see is wherever you welded anything to the box section will tend to rust out from the inside . Outside looks pretty but inside will be rusty as hell ! Anywhere you sprayed it over existing rust I.e. the ladder will continue to rust underneath.
very nice
that is one thing i never had luck with is flex seal. had a camper and did the roof with white flex seal and less then 3 months had to redo it again because all the leaks came back. needless to say i couldn't get the roof to seal again after i put the flex seal on it so i put a tarp on it and will never buy it again
You should cross the wires on the LEDS (if they are RGB) so that one side is red the other green for Port and Starboard. it would also give some diffrent combinations scrolling through the other colours. 2x👍
They are not rgb on this particular one-button unit
Where can i find the led strips?@@benbellino3596
Get that bred !!!!!!! … flex seal sponsorship
Where do you get your bump stops from? I’ve searched a pretty good while and haven’t found any like those!!
Gatorbak.com
I want to play a drinking game, and I drink every time you say flex seal! hehehe... nice!! but great video again!!
Are you no longer allowed to launch boats at the end of your street?
The trailer looks great! Are you going to be working on getting rest of the scale and shells off the pontoons?
How many Cans did it take of Flex Seal Max?
As Usual....Great Work! The trailer looks outstanding. Did you seal the underside of the steel on the trailer?
You safed the sticker which says „VOID“ 😂
Hey where do you get all your music? I like the montages with the music it’s actually really relaxing.
Very nice
New favorite word is "functionable"
Man got sponsored by flex sealed, guess that’s how you know you made it? 😂
Flexseal will eventually get brittle and flake off , past experience, and cleaning off the patches that don't is a real pain
It’s kind a pain to see the way you’re craftsmanship is Taking a turn. Maybe in Florida it’s another vision to how to deal with moisture. The way you treat you’re metal, the choice of wood, the way you wire things, the materials. All inferiority around. If I watch the comments a lot of people trying to nudge you in a better direction.
Flexseal is a product which, used in a good manner, can be a plus. But just painting over active rust. That’s a no go.
The wiring will be in contact with water, use better terminals which a waterproof (expensive)
Use hardwood or aluminium for the beams, not just inferior wood and even worse encapsulate it in plastic so it can’t dry….
It’s good to have sponsors, but I think you took the wrong road. cheap plastic , cutting corners all around. Not good.
I miss the Zach which shows his skills in a artful way, finesse etc. Hope he’s comin’ back soon…
So no more pontoons (not again), and more little but artful mobility’s projects please.
Love all your builds! Just a quick question do the amber lights on the trailer need to be at the widest part of the front of the trailer and not on the tongue of the trailer. Just curious. The trailer came out so awesome 👌
Every trailer is different obviously and every country has different requirements. Andrew Camarata made a few great videos on rebuilding trailers and he gave good information on lighting them to America’s DOT requirements. Of course every trailer and country is different but in America, you just want to put each light in the most visible spot possible for its intended use. Amber lights need to showcase the front and back of the trailer as much as possible from sharp angles, tail light need to be as far to the left and right as possible. If the trailer is over 80” wide, it’s required to have 3 Amber lights approximately 1” apart in the back middle.
I probably would have used undercoating but ig there about the same thing.
great job :)
Didn't know Flexseal sells welding machines. The title should be "I fixed this trailer with a lot of hard work welding and replacing metal then sprayed it down with Flexseal".
Will the black Gatorbak leave black marks on the hull of a boat? Or in this case the pontoons?
No marks
Decent
Someone needs a haircut!! 🤣🤣
Using a product like that can have the exact opposite effect you are trying to achieve. Living the rustbelt zone , we no longer use any undercoating on vehicles , as the coating traps water and rots the frame. By you coating with a rubberized product , when you submerge the trailer in salt water , the resulting outcome will not be good. This is why many have switched to cosmoline, fluid film, crc, sta-bil, rp-342, amsoil mp, and similar products. Best wishes .
These videos are great, keep it going. Flex seal!!
Love the montages btw.
Ohh first comment cool
You had me until you said flexseal haha!
Should’ve just built a new one. Honestly I’d know. You’re still a square tube Main frame.
Hmm.. this seems like a terrible idea.. cool you got a sponser but I don't think this is the right application at all.. good luck when that trailer eats itself out.
Waisting your time ,that is a hollow steel trailer and it is rotten from the inside out I guarantee that
Your not getting a proper seal from the mask with a beard
Maybe he should flex seal his mask
Problem fixed
VOID. Too bad about your sticker.