@@willwingate5057 OK, punky-pants, you could put "I'se uh idjit, yo boss" which would about sum up your knowledge of knives at this point.. Listen and watch the old guys, try not to act the fool, and you MIGHT with luck live long enuff to become an old guy yourself... FYI it is indeed a fuller, purpose being to both lighten the blade and to strengthen it.. think of it along the lines of a stress-bearing steel "I"-beam in a building.
A Kukri covers all aspects of living in the wild. I carried one as a reservist, the same kukri when I went into the Sahara for over a decade and I still use it now when I take off into the mountains.
@@ClydeClemons Head over to Great Gurka Khukuri House... I have close to a dozen of their khukuris. The fit & finish is around a B. I like their designs, they collaborate with other makers and designers, and their blades are absolutely gorgeous, and come with a mirror finish by default. Wait time is only a week or two usually, and their heat treat is great considering they make blades out of spring steal (Benz leaf springs). You can add minor alterations to your order as well, like full tang instead of stick tang, and they'll do it with no extra charge. They still sell a design they produced with help from Jason Knight. If they're good enough for Jason, they're good enough for me.
Yup... like you said, all aspects of the wild. From the mountains where you are to the Swamps of Central and South Florida where I am. Perfect for both. In a jungle type environment, it's the only tool you that's a must.
I finally found somebody with a bigger knife addiction (“knife problem”, as my wife calls) then yours trully. Congratulations on your collection and thanks for sharing. Cold steel has put out good quality products for a long time.
I was a Staff Sgt in a 19 Delta Cavalry Scout platoon in the 1970s & 80s. We all carried a Kabar on our web gear and a S&W boot knife as a back up. You got THAT right about weight, We humped the Large ALICE Ruck sacks maxed out weight & gear .... Thanks for the Video. Im a BIG fan of the Cold Steel items too. I have several now. Thanks :) Scouts OUT!
A 'Blood Grove" is a fuller. A fuller is a way of removing weight from a blade but still keep most of its rigidity and helps improve balance. A fuller has been used in many swords and large knives for centuries. Think of it kind of like an I-beam use in construction. Good strength for less weight.
I was sure that someone else would react to the blood groove fallacy. It's a fuller, designed to save weight, improve balance and increase speed of a strike.
I would bet money that the fuller has no actual effects on anything listed. Yes weight is reduced but not enough for anything nut a scale to notice, balance probably exactly the same as without a fuller and speed is probably exactly the same also. It's not like a fuller removes very much metal meaning it doesn't reduce weight enough a human could tell.
@@Appalachianasshole41 on the Busse Gemini it removes about 30g, which is a bit under 10% of the overall blade mass. It will definitely move the point of balance further towards the handle.
The Tops Moccasin Ranger was made to honor Sgt.Grey Otter of Cherokee Nations as leader of the Cherokee Moccasin Rangers in WWII. This was said to be the style knife he used along with a tomahawk. He later went on to train instructors in hand combat with knives and tomahawks in WWII, Korea and Viet Nam. Great series on Summer of Knives.
I carry with me a WW2 Ghurkha kukri handed down to me from my father. I had used it for my outdoor endeavors since the 80s. A multipurpose knife and it served me well.
I camp with a Kukri and two No8 Opinels, one carbon steel for general use and one stainless steel for kitchen duties. Those three get everything done but I just bought a BKS sheath knife with ferro rod for $40 from Ukraine. Awesome knife for very little money. As for fighting knives, decades ago I designed and had made a fighting knife, sold several to my students and I seriously doubt any of them, mine included, ever saw any fighting. I stabbed a bloke with a pencil once...
With all of my cold steel sheaths I cut the plastic of the webbing. Replace it wit a full grain piece of leather the same width of the sheath and copy the top two holes on each side, punch the holes then fix eyelets. You can glue and sew the leather to the corduroy. Then you can use Chicago screw to fix to sheath. By doing this the webbing folds around the top of the sheath. Also if used in combat cover the sheath with a rubber tube, this will deaden the sound if hit. Without, it could be very noisy. This is the same with kydex or any poly sheath.
Budget: Glock Field knife Classic: Legendary KA-BAR or Ka-Bar Mark 1 Kraton Midrange: Becker BK7 Top tier: Busee SFNO, ASH 1 ...or make your choice! High-End: TRC Mille Cuori I tried hard, to think of any other "Combat knife", that would be a better choice for a real reliable Combat knife, but those are the only I could think of, on each price point category. Those are readilly available which I consider essential for such list.
Lancero. I used to carry 3 knifes in a long walks in South America junglas, a cheap machete tramontina, a old m9 ( I replaced with a CS Srk sk5 and or ka-bar baker C) and small style dagger (I replaced with a folder cold steel sr1). Travel lite with the right tools.
I have actually carried that Kershaw dagger on the far right for about 4 years daily. As a Over The Road Trucker I use it constantly from eating dinner to screwdriver and prying. The sheath is a good one. Never had a problem with retention. I carry it crosswise on the center back of my belt this works great for me. I have been carrying a knife this way for 30 years now.
I carry a Cold Steel Kukri and have for the last 30 years, it's a real problem solver. Knifes which lack guards I put anti-slipp tape on, the typ you find in slippery stairs but I fill the grain with a peice of wood first. (in Sweden the wound you get when you slide you hand over the blade cutting all your fingers is called "a Mora wound" after the Mora knife) Swedish army doctrine says - One knife per layer. so I also carry a fairbairn sykes, a multitool, a folding knife and a AK4 bajonetter plus my truster Benchmade. I hate auto correct 🤬
@@j-rocd9507 right back at ya! I used to be "mocked" for my kukri, "Death, that's no knife that's a sword" but when they have tried it and used it's always "could I use your kukri, please". I see you in Valhalla, brother!
Hey, Mr. Dunne ! Why he said that, I don't know, The design looks like it could've been around in the previous century. Hollywood puts KA-BARS in the hands of Indians in Western movies. In John Wayne's " The Searchers ", the kid that rode with him wore a KA-BAR. It does seem to be a classic design.
I served in the military too back in the early 80s and I carried an old school Buck 119 apart from the useless M7 bayonet, haha. Loved your video on combat knives, cheers!
My Cold Steel Taipan and Tops Wild Pig Hunter are the most effective killing knives I've found; the blade design is pretty much perfection for piercing and slashing flesh.
Great vid I do favor the Bowie knives though honestly if your looking for a strict combat knife it's usually best to go custum even the beloved ka bar is a bit castrated it lacks a 90° cut out just in front of the guard to get used as a vice to grapple an oponets blade for controlling the situation crusatas also help to lock the blade in for said same reason essentially to leverage against the 90 cut out and the dull file saw teeth angled away from the handle also a vice then a blunt spike pommel then you have the cut outs on the blade like tear drops those are to deflect an stab attempt so when you whack it out catches the point and potentially disarm said opponent though the blade may become longer to fit in all the tools and don't forget the back side of the point is an abrupt edge which can have a nasty cut simuler to a cats claw more so when slightly hollowed
I'm an idiot, but I like to make sure a knife is a capable Bushcraft knife before it's considered at all, then whatever it's fighting capability attributes start to matter. I personally would take a bush craft knife over a fighting knife any day if I could only have one
A small point. Olean NY is pronounced "Oh-lee-anne". Important point: If you plan to fight with a knife, I want a double edged dagger and nothinhg else. In the panic of a knife fight, every slash must hit a sharpe edge. You cannot afford to have 50% of your slashes fall ont a dull edge. Also, in the dark, I want to know that any edge is the sharp edge. I don't need to look or feel.
Yeah agreed. For pure fighting knives, I'll always take my CS Tai Pan or my TOPS pig hunter. Both designs have perfectly optimized a blade for both piercing and slashing.
November 23, 1942 The Marine Corps adopted the knife on November 23, 1942. The knife proved easy to manufacture, and the first run was shipped Jan. 27, 1943, by Camillus Cutlery Company.
I own a lot of the knives featured here and I will say a lot of the rarer, expensive examples ended up being relegated to collectors pieces because these days I'm likely never going to be able to replace them without paying obscene prices or if I can find them at all (I'm on a 1-2 year waiting list for a Chris Reeves Pacific, for example). I mostly favour single-edged knives geared towards utility or bushcraft but focusing on pure combat options I own; the Prather War Bowie, Buck GCK, Kabar Modified Tanto or the Kabar D2 Exteme fighter are likely what I'd grab out of my collection. If I was to have to settle on only being able to take one single knife in SHTF it'd be a toss up between the ESEE 6 or BK7, although these would not be my first choices from a fighting perspective but can certainly do the job as good as any kitchen knife used in 99.9% of knife fatalities.
Fullers are historically known as blood grooves or blood gutters, although channeling blood is not their purpose. A fuller is a rounded or beveled longitudinal groove or slot along the flat side of a blade (e.g., a sword, knife, or bayonet) that is made using a blacksmithing tool called a spring swage or, like the groove, a fuller. A fuller is often used to widen a blade. When combined with proper distal tapers, heat treatment and blade tempering, a fullered blade can be 20% to 35% lighter than a non-fullered blade with minimal sacrifice of strength or blade integrity. This effect lessens as the blade is reduced in length. A blade is said to be "fullered" after the introduction of the groove.
I carry a gun. Sometimes I carry backup gun as well. I do it different though. My revolver is my primary and my hi cap is my backup. I also carry a knife. A 7 inch Bowie or a assisted opening tanto w a Gerber eab lite box cutter for a backup
The correct term for blood groove is a fuller. That story about knives getting stuck is a myth, they are just there to shave some weight off the knife while retaining the strength/rigidity of the blade. Nice collection, thay gemini is beautiful
Nice collection, I have most of those, I like the Ka Bar and have several. I plan to show my Combat knives in some videos down the road. I liked your video.
A metal guard on the CS Marauder would be sweet! To be fair, the rubber/plastic one does the job just fine to protect your hand from riding up. Some people might say that it won't protect well against a blade strike to which I response with, "Let's face it, you are NOT going to be fencing with a knife!". On a different note, have you checked out the CS Black Bear machete? CS got their machete guys to basically make an inexpensive fighting bowie.
The CKRT little two edge dagger I know somebody that carried one of those in Iraq and he loved it he put it in his boot and that was nice that he always put on his boat he said he would’ve never changed it That was one of his favorites God bless you and your family God bless the world
Hence the thrust, twist withdraw drill for bayonet use. The twist aliviates to a degree the suction grip on a blade by introducing air and creating a cavity.
I have a Couple of Ka-Bars and a Cold Steel Recon Tanto. I've used them all for fieldcraft. Although I was a US Marine AND a US Army Infantryman, I've never fought with a knife (trained for it, never had to do it.). But, used these "fighting" knives to chop small firewood, cut 550 cord and C-4. My last tour in Iraq I carried a Boker Applegate-Fairbairn dagger on my LBV. Terrible field knife. Was stolen on my way out of country.
With tec locks, get a length of inner tube, big enough to go over the sheath and tec lock. It is best if you cut the inner tube long enough to double over. When placed in the gap in the tec lock where you would have a belt the inner tube not only keeps the lock tight to the sheath, it covers the screws, so they can never be lost. It will also tighten the retention for the knife. Especially good when the sheath has not good very good retention. I first tried this with a esee 6 clip, which is 1/8" not 3/16". And it lock the knife in perfect. I cannot shake it out. And i mean shake. Can wezr it upside down and it has never come out. I do this on all knives as the tec lock only fits to one side of the sheath. This way it locks it to the sheath even.
I lost my first K-bar. It killed me. I bought a SOG super bowie. Not very practical. I love looking at it. Wrong handle for a fighting knife. Very cheap sheath. Just got a cold steel recon tanto. Perfect price point. Great size for a fighter. To this day a great knife is still my 119. It's never let me down. Very hard to sharpen. Every couple of years I have a new bevel cut into the blade. Then I do the rest. It's the only draw back to the knife. I bought a SOG jungle warrior as a joke a couple of years ago. One of the worst blades I have ever owned. I would not even cut a Thanksgiving turkey with it. Pure junk. I know it will break if used Very hard. Great video. Thanks.
I recommend picking up a Schrade Schf3n, it's a replica of Chris Reeves Pacific $500 high end. I think you will be happy with design and quality of the Schf3n
Shadowtech makes some great knives as well. I bought the QRT Spear point before it went out of production. The Kabar Big Brother would be good to add to your collection. I have one with the Kraton handle and it is razor sharp. I wouldn't use it for battoning due to rat tang knives being more prone to breaking under impact stress. I have a Colonial Knives Defiant that is full tang and tough as hell for my outdoors knife. I keep a Mora 2000 in all my backpacks for a field knife. The grip on it is fantastic! I have an old M1 bayonet that I use on my boat. It is razor sharp but, gets fish dressing duty. Great video review!
kabar is owned by ontario knife company clip points on a knife serve 2 purposes it gives you a point to stab with it also puts the balance of weight towards your hand. i alwaya take 2 kives to the field a large one for wood processing/work and a small one for small fine work. a knife that is totaly for fighting is usually not that great for field work.
Old model cold steel can be fixed. They use to have retention issues i hava a ukw model and i fix it whit the kitichen flame. Good video and thank you!!
I have an Ontario SP10, and it's a great blade. I can throw it and really got a lot of time learning to fight with it. I'm no professional, just lucked out and lived next to a Filipino family and there were always knife fighting training. Especially teaching his young beautifies. My spec 10 has a different and I'd say much better. Oh, Zero Tolerance knives are either tied in, or owned by Schrade knives, which my grandfather used in the military and clear down to a whittling knife. Love their stuff.
When I was in the army, I carried a .45 plus ammo, an M-16 plus ammo, part of an 8I'mm mortar plus ammo, canteen(s) and my personal year in a smart pack And, if I could scrounge some a grenade or two. I didn't care for the army provided knife so I carried a custom Bowie knife with a thick eight inch blade..
The "platoon" knife or Defender 1 aka The Terminator isn't in production anymore and is really valuable among collectors. If you want it tighter drop it in a bucket of water and let it be for an hour. Then pick it up and let it dry, the leather will shrink and get tighter. Apply some leather cream or something like it afterwards.
Picks. 1. Buck Tops 650 2. Any 10 inch long, 2 inch wide bowie. 3. K Bar knife. 4. US Army Trench knife or M-7 Bayonet. 5. M-1 Garand Bayonet 1944 UFC 9 inch blade. I've used all of these at one time or the other for different tasks.
The Gerber LMF doesn't have a full tang as stated. That is so the pilots can cut their way out of a downed aircraft and not worry about getting shocked.
Greetings from Nova Scotia Canada, believe it or not....up here there is ALOT of people that carry fighting/bushcraft/survival knives. & i love these informative videos on knives. Thanks. 👍💯🤝
The best way to deal with coldsteel is to buy 3 of the same knifes you want and then mix and match the best knife with the best sheath. Excuse my run on sentence.
I picked up a Gerber Strongarm which is durable and a wonderful size and a Ka-Bar D2 Extreme which is a mini sword but perfect size for keeping the distance.
Semper Fi Brother! 3/4 Marines Vietnam. My Kabar didn't make it back with me from my time in the jungle. However, they were junk, and we mostly never used them for combat. If we were that close to the enemy, you'd better be shooting than stabbing. Loved that auto fire, but spray and pray was hard to get a body count, but I ramble. Love knives though!
I have a question.....outside of collecting knives and personel cool factor how many of us here need to choose "the right" combat knife who here honestly is creeping behind enemy lines cutting throats or getting into any type of combat scenario😅 I think if there is anyone doing that as a profession pretty sure they don't need help choosing the right tool of choice lol. I think knives are awesome though and have been collecting a long time and really appreciate the hard work, art and craftsmanship behind making them.
My knife of choice was a Chris Reeve knife. I especially like the Harsey-designed Special Forces ķnife that is actually presented to graduates of the course. His earlier hollow handle knives are great if you can find them as they are out of production. I have seven of various blade lengths. Then, of course, there is the Randall No. 1. Always a good choice, but I think their wait list is about three years.
This was a wonderful review. Thinking back decades in my past, I learned that tools are very important, and it's really good to have a tool that is absolutely up to the task at hand, but what is of more importance is the knowledge and practical skill to use any item in your hand and surroundings appropriately. Knowing the traits of the item (like whether the tool is an impact tool or more appropriate for cutting, and whether the tool is more a cutting tool or a puncturing tool) can be extremely important to the actual use of the tool, and pretty much dictate ones movements in split second actual close combat situations where there are no second chances or tapouts. You have a wonderful selection of tools my brother, great video. Be well.
Traditionally the Bowie Clip was for disarming your opponent. The knife was held upside-down., using the clip to strike the top of the attacker's wrist, knocking their knife from their hand.
Sorry to write at this late date ! My apologies my fellow Marine ! In my day in the Marines, Vietnam Era, we were taught to thrust knife or bayonet, then violently twist said blades, whether in hand or on rifle, then with a final thrust while inside to pierce the heart, then withdraw twisting. This assured death of the opposition. The twisting assures a wide wound and unblocks ribs that may cause withdrawals from being smooth. The violent twisting motion is almost like drilling the body with a huge bit. We always attack the side of the sternum where the heart is less protected because the heart is not completely covered by it. I think the heart is always slightly under the left side behind the sternum. A good knife can break ribs in the twisting motion as well. In knife fights, you may have multiple opponents and need to withdraw the knife quickly, with practice the twisting is rapid and fast even without the secondary thrust. As a killing machine, you do not hesitate or give thought to what you are doing as it should become perfectly natural to you. Get a side of pork and do it to feel what it is like to thrust, twist and withdraw. That secondary thrust is one for the Marine Corps ! Semper Fidelis, Devil Dog ! Oh, one other thing. It was against the Geneva Convention to sharpen bayonets, however, with fine honing skills, no one would know and it was against the same convention to serrate a bayonet. K-Bars were considered utility knives and therefore could be sharpened. We did beaucoup amount of knife and bayonet training right here in the good old USA ! Of course you pick up things along the way in the Philippines and Okinawa and even in country Vietnam.
Good One. FYI History Time. The M-4 through M7 U.S. Bayonet Blades are derived from the WW2 issued M3 Combat Knife. The Army gave those to Soldiers whose Primary Job was NOT Infantry, like R.0.s, Artillery, etc. Those guys were also (supposedly) issued the M1 Carbine. Supposedly, those who fought in the Pacific didn't like the fact that they were doing Bayonet Combat with the Japanese w/o Bayonets. And the MPs in Europe wanted them when they had to move large numbers of Germans Prisoners around. So they came up with a barrel adapter and used the M3 knife design for the Bayonet. Took awhile, so they didn't hit Combat until Okinawa. But the Navy stuck with Kabars for the Marines and the MK 1 for the Squids, and Big Bayonets for the Garands and Springfields. Fast Forward to the 80s. Big Army wanted a new Bayonet with the Soviet Wire Cutters. Marines got the new M9s, HATED IT, and got pissed that it was supposed to also replace Kabars. Which is why the Corps came up with the "Marines ONLY" Bayonet. On, the reason the M9 is so heavy? The Sheaths is SUPPOSED to have the Heavy Rubber Coating in case you had to cut Electric Wires. And the screwdriver tip is so you can "Field Strip" the Handle and make a Spear out of it. Go ahead and take one apart. Don't laugh too loud, you might wake the Baby. Looking forward to the next video.
Great collection! Okay just a couple of criticisms, the “blood grove” is called a Fuller, it’s to take weight off the blade while keeping its size. The rubber handles while they may offer some insulation it’s for cost saving, manufacturing speed and can offer a comfortable grip and is less prone to weather/water based damage especially over time. All a guard on a knife is for is keeping the user’s hand off the blade especially when stabbing. Last but not least it really doesn’t matter where a blade is made these days as long as it has what you are looking for considering that there is a worldwide standard when it comes to steel quality. Now how a blade is manufactured for quality standards is a different story but if a company offers a comparable product and it is up to your standards, d2 steel is d2 steel etc… if you can find the same exact blade for half the cost at that point you are only paying for a name. I’m not saying don’t do your research, by all means… you just might find the same factory makes the same blade for 4 different companies all with different prices
The Cold Steel Secure-Ex sheaths are really good, although some do have weak fit. This is an easy fix: Put a heat gun on the lips of the sheath and bend them in slightly. This will fix the loose fitting sheath. Likewise if your sheath is too tight, a little heat and you can loosen the fit. Cold Steel now makes many of their large knives in CPM-3V steel, making them CRAZY tough.
@@standupnow-bo3lr It's one of my most important characteristics. Extremely hard and wear-resistant steels like M390/20CV, S90 & S110, or even VG-10 and the current reigning CPM steels like S30V, S35VN, and S45VN have a tendency to chip out at the edge, losing that hard biting edge. Then, once you've lost your razor edge on CPM-S90, it's like you're running ball bearings on your sharpening stones to get that hair-splitting edge back. 3V, on the other hand, and some of the mid-level stainless steels like AEB-L and 14C28N (my first three choices of knife steel, in that order) have good stable edges, which may or may not hold as long an edge (depending on what you cut) and are MUCH easier to touch up with a ceramic rod or even just a strop.
For actual combat and fighting in a situation where I only have a knife and can't use a gun for some reason, I'd pick only two knives (if I couldn't have an actual sword), and thats the cold steel taipan for when I could carry something full size, and the tops knives lions toothpick for situations where I had to conceal my weapon. I challenge anyone to find me a better killing knife for the weight and size than those two.
For me it would be the Böker Applegate-Fairbairn for a full sized knife. The palm swell fits my hands better than the taipan. It feels like the Böker was molded for me. The small one would be the Fallkniven G1 Garm. I own the Böker A-F as a hunting sidearm and had to use it to finish game animals in traffic accidents. It worked just fine.
Not sure why it took this long to see your video Good video by the way My favorite fighting knife Cold Steel OSI San Mai love me some CS over 50pcs atm.
in a knife fight you will not be clashing/parrying each others blades, the guard is to keep you slipping up on your own blade.. slashing is more effective way to disable your opponent. aim for their limbs, preferably the arm that holds their weapon. you want to cut arteries and tendons. make them loose their weapon, and bleed out. clothing will be an obstacle. serrated blades are great for tearing past the clothing and getting to their flesh. it also makes a jagged cut that will make it harder for them to close if they run. longer blades mean more reach. make sure the sheath has no play, you don't want rattle. blackened blade is great for stealth, but a shiny blade can be used to reflect the sun in their eyes to blind them. these are just tips ive heard from others. never killed anyone tbh.
Tops Moccasin Ranger is a fighting knife. An Indian who was an Army Ranger designed it during WW2 and went on too instruct Rangers going into Korean War.
I really like the Buck 119 sharpest knife in the drawer and what a beauty but I cannot carry it concealed. For concealed carry I like the Smith and Wesson Border Guard (I think that's the name) which is a lovely fold out knife that produces a good sturdy blade for many tasks.
I served in the Army during the 80's. I purchased the Ontario Brand version of the Ka Bar at the Ft. Benning Book Store. Our Bayonets were kept in the Arms room in banded and sealed Foot Lockers. You were right they were terrible field knives.
Kailash blades, 9.5 Historic military issue. Man it's about 380g but I struck some quartz and the edge is still perfect. Ask about a guard they won't charge you out the ass. You wait about month and a half but they charge you very little for how great it is.
To the uploader, it looks like you like a solid sheath and a solid blade with good coating. Look at the Extrema Ratio Fulcrum for a good field knife that also easily takes the role of a fighting knife. If you want the extreme you can look at the Extrema Ratio Supressor for a really wicked fighting knife.
I m very big fan of Army tools equipment and weapons & at the most I love the knives they carry. I have seen so many videos on Knife and their feature comparisons but the way he has explained pros and cons and also gave insight how good knives actually work was an awesome 👏🏻,I would like to rate this video with 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Please come up with few more such video...
There's an interesting video on Bowie and his knife, on TH-cam. Apparently no one knows for certain what knife he used. It's very likely he used a large kitchen knife in his "Sandbar fight". The "Bowie knife" attributed to him is a figment of Hollywood in the 1950's & 60's. The Ka-Bar was just a modification of earlier versions of that blade shape.
You pick the combat knife you love! too many alleged military experts and former soldiers put down a lot of outstanding knives simply because they pussed out and didn't want to carry it based on its weight. I'm old school heavy rucksack and heavy bunker gear + SCBA veteran. I love carrying heavy loads and it builds up muscle memory, if you're already carrying heavy loads another half pound activates your pansy gene? I never got this ideology. Thanks for the video and the post great job!
The blade on the Ontario bayonet is the same as the SP6, which is a better clip point grind than the kabar. The kabar is a utility knife. The SP6 and bayonet have a longer sharp clip point. Also a less of a sabre grind, which is essy to sharpen. The SP6 even though it has no steel guard is very quick and light in the hand. You can also buy a Ontario with a steel gaurd the freedom fighter same blade. All have same profile as bayonet. 5160 steel
I have a few knives that are more fighting knife but still can be Bush knives. Benchmade Centago one piece is a sharp, not very scary looking but solid built. Only criticism is lack of a lanyard hole. So I drilled through the grip panels and made my own. Hogue EX01. Solid one piece knife. It has a small her wrench to remove the sales to lash it to a stick to make a speed. Unfortunately, the hex wrench is junk and the tip broke off. Disappointing. Cold Steel Recon Tanto. Good sharp solid fighting knife. Very light fir quick direction changes. Have had it fir 20 years. Tops Steel Eagle 107C. Solid huge knife for camp and survival. Chops branches, sticks, notching saw on back. Can chop, hack, slice, stab with equal ease. Recently got the Slysteel Spectre Survival Combat knife. Excellent. Recurred. Ut not a kukri. Made by Tops, thick blade. Sharp. Can hack, chop, slash, stab, slice. Can chop bush like a machete, can take a head off like a kukri. Amazing. My current favorite 4 or 2 legged predators knife. Sly Steel Skeletak dagger double edged blade. Great last ditch concealed knife. Super sharp and readily carried in boot, removal scales to make an even more slender blade for thr boot carry or strap as a spray.
That was a great review Devil Dog. I look at knives in the field in a layer approach. You have your large Swiss Army knife or Camp knife in your pocket. A small dagger type knife with quick access for larger work, and MRE crap. Then you have your main large combat knife that is 6-8 inches with a heavy blade. I have a lot of the knives that you showed. I like Cold Steel too. You narrowed your topic to combat fighting knife which was excellent. Now take the knives that you would use in combat and also for bush craft. Outstanding job on the video. Keep up the great work!!! Semper Fi!!!
The double bladed want to see KRT my pastor use that when he was in Iraq that was a knife that he loved and then I got it it’s a wonderful life but he said he love that knife at work. God bless you and your family God bless the world is always get along.
He is not kidding at all about the Busse Team Gemini. That is a Daryl Dixon character knife that looks very Bayonet. The steel on those were generally his INFINI Steel. Love it. Cannot afford it, and the lack of Rubber Handle makes it unlikely I would use it. The other Busse/SYKCO Regulator was originally a 7.5" Clip Point blade in all black for Mila Jovovich in Resident Evil, all black with a Rhino Liner finish. The Resoprine-C handle is what makes this 52100 ball bearing steel monster a worthy bushcraft Batton/Chopper. Should be fine for a half day of chopping and battoning. I bought one unused. The Second one was used has shows the slight smear wear of being battoned through a log. It was used to kill 2 chickens in my presence. What he had was a camo drop point blade. Nice work, but seeing the scene where Mila chooses the Regulator over the MP5PDW I was sold. I really agree with his CS Recon Scout presentation as well. The Rubberized handle will make that great on the battoning. That one might be the now discontinued O-1 Tool Steel. There are no longer Black and they are now in CPM3V for every bit of $400. (I got one under $200 before they corrected their SKU #, what a DEAL on a large piece of CPM3V). Same sort of fever hit me was the SRK started to come in in CPM3V and I sold off the Blackened Sk-5, but not the O-1 Recon Scout, NO WAY! That might need a collector to pay $500 for that. When seeing some Team Gemini were made in A2 I started looking for some A2 steel in the 6-7" range. Busse was either unobtainium or not the right length as he started making some compacts. Then after this Vid came out, Houge was making A2 Side Slab Micarta Handled Bush Knives. I missed out on the Green 7" w/Green Handles, but found a 5. Violating my Rubber Handle Rule, the 7" is on One Vest and the Used Regulator is on the Other Vest. Read as much as you can on Steels, the on Hardening, and then look for deals on the Size of Metal you want. Also, watch for popular items that are closing out for whatever reason. Prices can rise when they are no longer available. THIS STUFF IS A DISEASE!
Regarding al the kit you carry as a soldier. All your kit is 'battle order' meaning all the kit you need to survive, live. Then you have combat order. This is when you strip down all the kit you carry, down to what you need in a fight ie: weapon, ammo, water, 'knife' etc. That Ontario big bowie was for machine gunners, so they can use for clearing ground around them and to use as a weapon. As a infantry soldier a few knives shown here would be good ie: recon scout, recon tanto, busse knives would be good in combat order. Cold steel peace keeper is a good dagger. These other mentioed are good strong knives. There is alot of rubbish sold as combat knives, and hundreds called navy seal knives. Which is just marketing. Which target the gullible.
Enjoying your video series. I have to say though, glad you included the Moccasin Ranger from Tops in this particular video as this knife's origin literally comes from combat in WWII and even on our current battlefield. The Cherokee Indian who led the unit the knife is named after wielded the knife this knife is designed after along with his tomahawk against enemies.
That was awesome,thank you very much ///_
Só coisas top 👍
well pointed out...also...the kabar hasnt been around for centuries...decades maybe....certainly not centuries
The “blood groove” is called a fuller (or mor recently “lightning cuts”) just for weight savings. God bless you for your service and sacrifice.
It's called a blood groove
Idk wut to put here ok boomer
@@willwingate5057 OK, punky-pants, you could put "I'se uh idjit, yo boss" which would about sum up your knowledge of knives at this point.. Listen and watch the old guys, try not to act the fool, and you MIGHT with luck live long enuff to become an old guy yourself... FYI it is indeed a fuller, purpose being to both lighten the blade and to strengthen it.. think of it along the lines of a stress-bearing steel "I"-beam in a building.
@@ronalddunne3413 you take things too seriously
Hey, Mr.Ray and Mr.Dunn ! I'll stick to blood groove. Don't care what it really is. I get you, though. It's good to be accurate.
A Kukri covers all aspects of living in the wild. I carried one as a reservist, the same kukri when I went into the Sahara for over a decade and I still use it now when I take off into the mountains.
What brand & model? I’ve been looking for a good one. I bought one from Amazon years ago that was total junk with good reviews..
Is an awesome mix between slashing and stabbing capability. Plus choppy.
@@ClydeClemons Head over to Great Gurka Khukuri House... I have close to a dozen of their khukuris. The fit & finish is around a B. I like their designs, they collaborate with other makers and designers, and their blades are absolutely gorgeous, and come with a mirror finish by default. Wait time is only a week or two usually, and their heat treat is great considering they make blades out of spring steal (Benz leaf springs). You can add minor alterations to your order as well, like full tang instead of stick tang, and they'll do it with no extra charge. They still sell a design they produced with help from Jason Knight.
If they're good enough for Jason, they're good enough for me.
Yup... like you said, all aspects of the wild. From the mountains where you are to the Swamps of Central and South Florida where I am. Perfect for both. In a jungle type environment, it's the only tool you that's a must.
cool😊
I finally found somebody with a bigger knife addiction (“knife problem”, as my wife calls) then yours trully. Congratulations on your collection and thanks for sharing. Cold steel has put out good quality products for a long time.
The secret to the velcro problem is to shout "hey!" at the same time as you open the velcro, thus covering the sound with a sneaky distraction.
I was a Staff Sgt in a 19 Delta Cavalry Scout platoon in the 1970s & 80s.
We all carried a Kabar on our web gear and a S&W boot knife as a back up.
You got THAT right about weight, We humped the Large ALICE Ruck sacks maxed out weight & gear .... Thanks for the Video. Im a BIG fan of the Cold Steel items too. I have several now.
Thanks :)
Scouts OUT!
Leg?
@@M60gunner1971 11 Delta Cavalry Scout
@@HerbWalker 11B1P Paratrooper
A 'Blood Grove" is a fuller. A fuller is a way of removing weight from a blade but still keep most of its rigidity and helps improve balance. A fuller has been used in many swords and large knives for centuries. Think of it kind of like an I-beam use in construction. Good strength for less weight.
I was sure that someone else would react to the blood groove fallacy. It's a fuller, designed to save weight, improve balance and increase speed of a strike.
Well said.
...very well said sir
I would bet money that the fuller has no actual effects on anything listed. Yes weight is reduced but not enough for anything nut a scale to notice, balance probably exactly the same as without a fuller and speed is probably exactly the same also. It's not like a fuller removes very much metal meaning it doesn't reduce weight enough a human could tell.
@@Appalachianasshole41 on the Busse Gemini it removes about 30g, which is a bit under 10% of the overall blade mass. It will definitely move the point of balance further towards the handle.
The Tops Moccasin Ranger was made to honor Sgt.Grey Otter of Cherokee Nations as leader of the Cherokee Moccasin Rangers in WWII. This was said to be the style knife he used along with a tomahawk. He later went on to train instructors in hand combat with knives and tomahawks in WWII, Korea and Viet Nam. Great series on Summer of Knives.
Is that why their blades that arent much different to other blades cost 200+?
I'm going to research this thank you
I carry with me a WW2 Ghurkha kukri handed down to me from my father. I had used it for my outdoor endeavors since the 80s. A multipurpose knife and it served me well.
I camp with a Kukri and two No8 Opinels, one carbon steel for general use and one stainless steel for kitchen duties. Those three get everything done but I just bought a BKS sheath knife with ferro rod for $40 from Ukraine. Awesome knife for very little money. As for fighting knives, decades ago I designed and had made a fighting knife, sold several to my students and I seriously doubt any of them, mine included, ever saw any fighting. I stabbed a bloke with a pencil once...
With all of my cold steel sheaths I cut the plastic of the webbing. Replace it wit a full grain piece of leather the same width of the sheath and copy the top two holes on each side, punch the holes then fix eyelets. You can glue and sew the leather to the corduroy. Then you can use Chicago screw to fix to sheath. By doing this the webbing folds around the top of the sheath. Also if used in combat cover the sheath with a rubber tube, this will deaden the sound if hit. Without, it could be very noisy. This is the same with kydex or any poly sheath.
Very nice
Budget: Glock Field knife
Classic: Legendary KA-BAR or Ka-Bar Mark 1 Kraton
Midrange: Becker BK7
Top tier: Busee SFNO, ASH 1 ...or make your choice!
High-End: TRC Mille Cuori
I tried hard, to think of any other "Combat knife", that would be a better choice for a real reliable Combat knife, but those are the only I could think of, on each price point category.
Those are readilly available which I consider essential for such list.
Appreciate the rundown. Years later, and your video is still informing people. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Lancero. I used to carry 3 knifes in a long walks in South America junglas, a cheap machete tramontina, a old m9 ( I replaced with a CS Srk sk5 and or ka-bar baker C) and small style dagger (I replaced with a folder cold steel sr1). Travel lite with the right tools.
My favorite is my Cold Steel Outdoorsman (first model made in Japan.) Works as a hunting knife for me!
I have actually carried that Kershaw dagger on the far right for about 4 years daily. As a Over The Road Trucker I use it constantly from eating dinner to screwdriver and prying. The sheath is a good one. Never had a problem with retention. I carry it crosswise on the center back of my belt this works great for me. I have been carrying a knife this way for 30 years now.
I carry a Cold Steel Kukri and have for the last 30 years, it's a real problem solver.
Knifes which lack guards I put anti-slipp tape on, the typ you find in slippery stairs but I fill the grain with a peice of wood first. (in Sweden the wound you get when you slide you hand over the blade cutting all your fingers is called "a Mora wound" after the Mora knife)
Swedish army doctrine says - One knife per layer. so I also carry a fairbairn sykes, a multitool, a folding knife and a AK4 bajonetter plus my truster Benchmade.
I hate auto correct 🤬
why are knife per layer
@@NikosKatsikanis If you take of your belt and jacket you have another one on your next layer.
Don't forget a pocket diamond sharpening stone or two
Death..I like your style your knife carry philosophy and name. Good on ya all the best to you and yours. Cheers brother.
@@j-rocd9507 right back at ya!
I used to be "mocked" for my kukri, "Death, that's no knife that's a sword" but when they have tried it and used it's always "could I use your kukri, please".
I see you in Valhalla, brother!
The KaBar USMC has "Been around for centuries"? It was designed and produced for use in ww2..
Ka-Bar USMC is centuries, old? 1942 first used USMC.
He probably meant decades
Buck 119 also has been around too.
Figurative speech.
Hey, Mr. Dunne ! Why he said that, I don't know, The design looks like it could've been around in the previous century. Hollywood puts KA-BARS in the hands of Indians in Western movies. In John Wayne's " The Searchers ", the kid that rode with him wore a KA-BAR. It does seem to be a classic design.
I served in the military too back in the early 80s and I carried an old school Buck 119 apart from the useless M7 bayonet, haha. Loved your video on combat knives, cheers!
My Cold Steel Taipan and Tops Wild Pig Hunter are the most effective killing knives I've found; the blade design is pretty much perfection for piercing and slashing flesh.
Taipan is saf Specifically Designed for a fighting knife by the knife God Lynn Thompson lol
Great vid I do favor the Bowie knives though honestly if your looking for a strict combat knife it's usually best to go custum even the beloved ka bar is a bit castrated it lacks a 90° cut out just in front of the guard to get used as a vice to grapple an oponets blade for controlling the situation crusatas also help to lock the blade in for said same reason essentially to leverage against the 90 cut out and the dull file saw teeth angled away from the handle also a vice then a blunt spike pommel then you have the cut outs on the blade like tear drops those are to deflect an stab attempt so when you whack it out catches the point and potentially disarm said opponent though the blade may become longer to fit in all the tools and don't forget the back side of the point is an abrupt edge which can have a nasty cut simuler to a cats claw more so when slightly hollowed
There's an old adage a great knife fighter can fight with any knife but a great knife can make a knife fighter out of anyone the ole magic in the hilt
The cold steel recon scout looks like a small version of the trail master. Great size for my applications. Very practical. Love it.
Recently OKC has changed their SP -10 sheaths that are nylon and molly capable
Man loving your summer of knives series very enjoyable to see your vast collections of amazing blades
if you put packing foam in the bottoms of the nylon sheaths it stops rattle and a better fit for the knives.
I'm an idiot, but I like to make sure a knife is a capable Bushcraft knife before it's considered at all, then whatever it's fighting capability attributes start to matter. I personally would take a bush craft knife over a fighting knife any day if I could only have one
A small point. Olean NY is pronounced "Oh-lee-anne". Important point: If you plan to fight with a knife, I want a double edged dagger and nothinhg else. In the panic of a knife fight, every slash must hit a sharpe edge. You cannot afford to have 50% of your slashes fall ont a dull edge. Also, in the dark, I want to know that any edge is the sharp edge. I don't need to look or feel.
Yeah agreed. For pure fighting knives, I'll always take my CS Tai Pan or my TOPS pig hunter. Both designs have perfectly optimized a blade for both piercing and slashing.
November 23, 1942
The Marine Corps adopted the knife on November 23, 1942. The knife proved easy to manufacture, and the first run was shipped Jan. 27, 1943, by Camillus Cutlery Company.
I own a lot of the knives featured here and I will say a lot of the rarer, expensive examples ended up being relegated to collectors pieces because these days I'm likely never going to be able to replace them without paying obscene prices or if I can find them at all (I'm on a 1-2 year waiting list for a Chris Reeves Pacific, for example). I mostly favour single-edged knives geared towards utility or bushcraft but focusing on pure combat options I own; the Prather War Bowie, Buck GCK, Kabar Modified Tanto or the Kabar D2 Exteme fighter are likely what I'd grab out of my collection. If I was to have to settle on only being able to take one single knife in SHTF it'd be a toss up between the ESEE 6 or BK7, although these would not be my first choices from a fighting perspective but can certainly do the job as good as any kitchen knife used in 99.9% of knife fatalities.
Fullers are historically known as blood grooves or blood gutters, although channeling blood is not their purpose.
A fuller is a rounded or beveled longitudinal groove or slot along the flat side of a blade (e.g., a sword, knife, or bayonet) that is made using a blacksmithing tool called a spring swage or, like the groove, a fuller. A fuller is often used to widen a blade. When combined with proper distal tapers, heat treatment and blade tempering, a fullered blade can be 20% to 35% lighter than a non-fullered blade with minimal sacrifice of strength or blade integrity. This effect lessens as the blade is reduced in length. A blade is said to be "fullered" after the introduction of the groove.
I carry a gun. Sometimes I carry backup gun as well. I do it different though. My revolver is my primary and my hi cap is my backup. I also carry a knife. A 7 inch Bowie or a assisted opening tanto w a Gerber eab lite box cutter for a backup
The Fuller grooves are a way to lighten the blade without giving up rigidity I believe.
The correct term for blood groove is a fuller. That story about knives getting stuck is a myth, they are just there to shave some weight off the knife while retaining the strength/rigidity of the blade. Nice collection, thay gemini is beautiful
Thank you for the enlightenment, sir
I still have my original ka-bar but I prefer the cold steel recon tanto. Just got another one with a tan handle. I love it!!!
Nice collection, I have most of those, I like the Ka Bar and have several. I plan to show my Combat knives in some videos down the road. I liked your video.
Very cool
I love the Ontario raider Bowie it's my favourite large knife.
A metal guard on the CS Marauder would be sweet! To be fair, the rubber/plastic one does the job just fine to protect your hand from riding up. Some people might say that it won't protect well against a blade strike to which I response with, "Let's face it, you are NOT going to be fencing with a knife!". On a different note, have you checked out the CS Black Bear machete? CS got their machete guys to basically make an inexpensive fighting bowie.
The CKRT little two edge dagger I know somebody that carried one of those in Iraq and he loved it he put it in his boot and that was nice that he always put on his boat he said he would’ve never changed it That was one of his favorites God bless you and your family God bless the world
I bought my first and only Ka-Bar Camp Lejeune NC PX $25 1981 Echo 2/2 that old bayonet was the m7
Hence the thrust, twist withdraw drill for bayonet use.
The twist aliviates to a degree the suction grip on a blade by introducing air and creating a cavity.
Plus it helps increase the bleeding by expanding the wound
Thank you for your service my grand father was a corporal in the marines in ww2.
I have a Couple of Ka-Bars and a Cold Steel Recon Tanto. I've used them all for fieldcraft. Although I was a US Marine AND a US Army Infantryman, I've never fought with a knife (trained for it, never had to do it.). But, used these "fighting" knives to chop small firewood, cut 550 cord and C-4. My last tour in Iraq I carried a Boker Applegate-Fairbairn dagger on my LBV. Terrible field knife. Was stolen on my way out of country.
With tec locks, get a length of inner tube, big enough to go over the sheath and tec lock. It is best if you cut the inner tube long enough to double over. When placed in the gap in the tec lock where you would have a belt the inner tube not only keeps the lock tight to the sheath, it covers the screws, so they can never be lost. It will also tighten the retention for the knife. Especially good when the sheath has not good very good retention. I first tried this with a esee 6 clip, which is 1/8" not 3/16". And it lock the knife in perfect. I cannot shake it out. And i mean shake. Can wezr it upside down and it has never come out. I do this on all knives as the tec lock only fits to one side of the sheath. This way it locks it to the sheath even.
I lost my first K-bar. It killed me. I bought a SOG super bowie. Not very practical. I love looking at it. Wrong handle for a fighting knife. Very cheap sheath. Just got a cold steel recon tanto. Perfect price point. Great size for a fighter. To this day a great knife is still my 119. It's never let me down. Very hard to sharpen. Every couple of years I have a new bevel cut into the blade. Then I do the rest. It's the only draw back to the knife. I bought a SOG jungle warrior as a joke a couple of years ago. One of the worst blades I have ever owned. I would not even cut a Thanksgiving turkey with it. Pure junk. I know it will break if used Very hard. Great video. Thanks.
Small correction. It was said off-hand but the usmc adopted the Ka-Bar style knife in 1942. Not centuries ago.
I recommend picking up a Schrade Schf3n, it's a replica of Chris Reeves Pacific $500 high end. I think you will be happy with design and quality of the Schf3n
The best Gerber tactical/combat knife is the Silver Trident. It is very hard to acquire and for a while was limited to military special ops.
Shadowtech makes some great knives as well. I bought the QRT Spear point before it went out of production. The Kabar Big Brother would be good to add to your collection. I have one with the Kraton handle and it is razor sharp. I wouldn't use it for battoning due to rat tang knives being more prone to breaking under impact stress. I have a Colonial Knives Defiant that is full tang and tough as hell for my outdoors knife. I keep a Mora 2000 in all my backpacks for a field knife. The grip on it is fantastic! I have an old M1 bayonet that I use on my boat. It is razor sharp but, gets fish dressing duty. Great video review!
kabar is owned by ontario knife company clip points on a knife serve 2 purposes it gives you a point to stab with it also puts the balance of weight towards your hand. i alwaya take 2 kives to the field a large one for wood processing/work and a small one for small fine work. a knife that is totaly for fighting is usually not that great for field work.
Old model cold steel can be fixed. They use to have retention issues i hava a ukw model and i fix it whit the kitichen flame. Good video and thank you!!
I have an Ontario SP10, and it's a great blade. I can throw it and really got a lot of time learning to fight with it. I'm no professional, just lucked out and lived next to a Filipino family and there were always knife fighting training. Especially teaching his young beautifies. My spec 10 has a different and I'd say much better. Oh, Zero Tolerance knives are either tied in, or owned by Schrade knives, which my grandfather used in the military and clear down to a whittling knife. Love their stuff.
Thank for sharing your experience and opinions!
When I was in the army, I carried a .45 plus ammo, an M-16 plus ammo, part of an 8I'mm mortar plus ammo, canteen(s) and my personal year in a smart pack And, if I could scrounge some a grenade or two. I didn't care for the army provided knife so I carried a custom Bowie knife with a thick eight inch blade..
The "platoon" knife or Defender 1 aka The Terminator isn't in production anymore and is really valuable among collectors. If you want it tighter drop it in a bucket of water and let it be for an hour. Then pick it up and let it dry, the leather will shrink and get tighter. Apply some leather cream or something like it afterwards.
Picks.
1. Buck Tops 650
2. Any 10 inch long, 2 inch wide bowie.
3. K Bar knife.
4. US Army Trench knife or M-7 Bayonet.
5. M-1 Garand Bayonet 1944 UFC 9 inch blade.
I've used all of these at one time or the other for different tasks.
The Gerber LMF doesn't have a full tang as stated. That is so the pilots can cut their way out of a downed aircraft and not worry about getting shocked.
Greetings from Nova Scotia Canada, believe it or not....up here there is ALOT of people that carry fighting/bushcraft/survival knives.
& i love these informative videos on knives.
Thanks.
👍💯🤝
Ty
The best way to deal with coldsteel is to buy 3 of the same knifes you want and then mix and match the best knife with the best sheath. Excuse my run on sentence.
I picked up a Gerber Strongarm which is durable and a wonderful size and a Ka-Bar D2 Extreme which is a mini sword but perfect size for keeping the distance.
I appreciate the hell out of your sacrifice for our freedom man. God bless..... Love the video. Had to sub and like.
Semper Fi Brother! 3/4 Marines Vietnam. My Kabar didn't make it back with me from my time in the jungle. However, they were junk, and we mostly never used them for combat. If we were that close to the enemy, you'd better be shooting than stabbing. Loved that auto fire, but spray and pray was hard to get a body count, but I ramble. Love knives though!
I have a question.....outside of collecting knives and personel cool factor how many of us here need to choose "the right" combat knife who here honestly is creeping behind enemy lines cutting throats or getting into any type of combat scenario😅 I think if there is anyone doing that as a profession pretty sure they don't need help choosing the right tool of choice lol. I think knives are awesome though and have been collecting a long time and really appreciate the hard work, art and craftsmanship behind making them.
My knife of choice was a Chris Reeve knife. I especially like the Harsey-designed Special Forces ķnife that is actually presented to graduates of the course. His earlier hollow handle knives are great if you can find them as they are out of production. I have seven of various blade lengths. Then, of course, there is the Randall No. 1. Always a good choice, but I think their wait list is about three years.
This was a wonderful review. Thinking back decades in my past, I learned that tools are very important, and it's really good to have a tool that is absolutely up to the task at hand, but what is of more importance is the knowledge and practical skill to use any item in your hand and surroundings appropriately. Knowing the traits of the item (like whether the tool is an impact tool or more appropriate for cutting, and whether the tool is more a cutting tool or a puncturing tool) can be extremely important to the actual use of the tool, and pretty much dictate ones movements in split second actual close combat situations where there are no second chances or tapouts. You have a wonderful selection of tools my brother, great video. Be well.
Traditionally the Bowie Clip was for disarming your opponent. The knife was held upside-down., using the clip to strike the top of the attacker's wrist, knocking their knife from their hand.
Sorry to write at this late date ! My apologies my fellow Marine ! In my day in the Marines, Vietnam Era, we were taught to thrust knife or bayonet, then violently twist said blades, whether in hand or on rifle, then with a final thrust while inside to pierce the heart, then withdraw twisting. This assured death of the opposition. The twisting assures a wide wound and unblocks ribs that may cause withdrawals from being smooth. The violent twisting motion is almost like drilling the body with a huge bit. We always attack the side of the sternum where the heart is less protected because the heart is not completely covered by it. I think the heart is always slightly under the left side behind the sternum. A good knife can break ribs in the twisting motion as well. In knife fights, you may have multiple opponents and need to withdraw the knife quickly, with practice the twisting is rapid and fast even without the secondary thrust. As a killing machine, you do not hesitate or give thought to what you are doing as it should become perfectly natural to you. Get a side of pork and do it to feel what it is like to thrust, twist and withdraw. That secondary thrust is one for the Marine Corps ! Semper Fidelis, Devil Dog ! Oh, one other thing. It was against the Geneva Convention to sharpen bayonets, however, with fine honing skills, no one would know and it was against the same convention to serrate a bayonet. K-Bars were considered utility knives and therefore could be sharpened. We did beaucoup amount of knife and bayonet training right here in the good old USA ! Of course you pick up things along the way in the Philippines and Okinawa and even in country Vietnam.
A blood groove is also called a fuller. It make the blade lighter without taking away from the strength.
Great content thank you for that, I'm now convinced to get a ka bar
Good One. FYI History Time. The M-4 through M7 U.S. Bayonet Blades are derived from the WW2 issued M3 Combat Knife. The Army gave those to Soldiers whose Primary Job was NOT Infantry, like R.0.s, Artillery, etc. Those guys were also (supposedly) issued the M1 Carbine. Supposedly, those who fought in the Pacific didn't like the fact that they were doing Bayonet Combat with the Japanese w/o Bayonets. And the MPs in Europe wanted them when they had to move large numbers of Germans Prisoners around. So they came up with a barrel adapter and used the M3 knife design for the Bayonet. Took awhile, so they didn't hit Combat until Okinawa. But the Navy stuck with Kabars for the Marines and the MK 1 for the Squids, and Big Bayonets for the Garands and Springfields. Fast Forward to the 80s. Big Army wanted a new Bayonet with the Soviet Wire Cutters. Marines got the new M9s, HATED IT, and got pissed that it was supposed to also replace Kabars. Which is why the Corps came up with the "Marines ONLY" Bayonet. On, the reason the M9 is so heavy? The Sheaths is SUPPOSED to have the Heavy Rubber Coating in case you had to cut Electric Wires. And the screwdriver tip is so you can "Field Strip" the Handle and make a Spear out of it. Go ahead and take one apart. Don't laugh too loud, you might wake the Baby. Looking forward to the next video.
Great collection! Okay just a couple of criticisms, the “blood grove” is called a Fuller, it’s to take weight off the blade while keeping its size. The rubber handles while they may offer some insulation it’s for cost saving, manufacturing speed and can offer a comfortable grip and is less prone to weather/water based damage especially over time. All a guard on a knife is for is keeping the user’s hand off the blade especially when stabbing. Last but not least it really doesn’t matter where a blade is made these days as long as it has what you are looking for considering that there is a worldwide standard when it comes to steel quality. Now how a blade is manufactured for quality standards is a different story but if a company offers a comparable product and it is up to your standards, d2 steel is d2 steel etc… if you can find the same exact blade for half the cost at that point you are only paying for a name. I’m not saying don’t do your research, by all means… you just might find the same factory makes the same blade for 4 different companies all with different prices
The Cold Steel Secure-Ex sheaths are really good, although some do have weak fit. This is an easy fix: Put a heat gun on the lips of the sheath and bend them in slightly. This will fix the loose fitting sheath. Likewise if your sheath is too tight, a little heat and you can loosen the fit. Cold Steel now makes many of their large knives in CPM-3V steel, making them CRAZY tough.
@@standupnow-bo3lr It's one of my most important characteristics. Extremely hard and wear-resistant steels like M390/20CV, S90 & S110, or even VG-10 and the current reigning CPM steels like S30V, S35VN, and S45VN have a tendency to chip out at the edge, losing that hard biting edge. Then, once you've lost your razor edge on CPM-S90, it's like you're running ball bearings on your sharpening stones to get that hair-splitting edge back. 3V, on the other hand, and some of the mid-level stainless steels like AEB-L and 14C28N (my first three choices of knife steel, in that order) have good stable edges, which may or may not hold as long an edge (depending on what you cut) and are MUCH easier to touch up with a ceramic rod or even just a strop.
The point of the "blood Groove" / Fuller is to reduce weight in the blade.
I bought the ka bar 1217. Yes it's a fighting knife. It's turned out to be also a good camp knife an d very good bush craft knife. Would you agree?
For actual combat and fighting in a situation where I only have a knife and can't use a gun for some reason, I'd pick only two knives (if I couldn't have an actual sword), and thats the cold steel taipan for when I could carry something full size, and the tops knives lions toothpick for situations where I had to conceal my weapon. I challenge anyone to find me a better killing knife for the weight and size than those two.
For me it would be the Böker Applegate-Fairbairn for a full sized knife. The palm swell fits my hands better than the taipan. It feels like the Böker was molded for me. The small one would be the Fallkniven G1 Garm.
I own the Böker A-F as a hunting sidearm and had to use it to finish game animals in traffic accidents. It worked just fine.
@@maxlutz3674 agree with the Taipan not having the best grip- I actually now prefer my James William knife and Boker FS dagger more.
I have the skinny GI bayonet, I believe it is the M7. Great video, thank you for your service!
Not sure why it took this long to see your video Good video by the way My favorite fighting knife Cold Steel OSI San Mai love me some CS over 50pcs atm.
in a knife fight you will not be clashing/parrying each others blades, the guard is to keep you slipping up on your own blade.. slashing is more effective way to disable your opponent. aim for their limbs, preferably the arm that holds their weapon. you want to cut arteries and tendons. make them loose their weapon, and bleed out. clothing will be an obstacle. serrated blades are great for tearing past the clothing and getting to their flesh. it also makes a jagged cut that will make it harder for them to close if they run. longer blades mean more reach. make sure the sheath has no play, you don't want rattle. blackened blade is great for stealth, but a shiny blade can be used to reflect the sun in their eyes to blind them. these are just tips ive heard from others. never killed anyone tbh.
I took a quick glance at the thumbnail and thought it was a comically large knife
Good video :)
Tops Moccasin Ranger is a fighting knife. An Indian who was an Army Ranger designed it during WW2 and went on too instruct Rangers going into Korean War.
I really like the Buck 119 sharpest knife in the drawer and what a beauty but I cannot carry it concealed. For concealed carry I like the Smith and Wesson Border Guard (I think that's the name) which is a lovely fold out knife that produces a good sturdy blade for many tasks.
This video helped me out a lot, I’m visiting London in 1 week and I don’t want to get caught lacking by the bri’ish roadmen
I served in the Army during the 80's. I purchased the Ontario Brand version of the Ka Bar at the Ft. Benning Book Store. Our Bayonets were kept in the Arms room in banded and sealed Foot Lockers. You were right they were terrible field knives.
Kailash blades, 9.5 Historic military issue. Man it's about 380g but I struck some quartz and the edge is still perfect. Ask about a guard they won't charge you out the ass. You wait about month and a half but they charge you very little for how great it is.
To the uploader, it looks like you like a solid sheath and a solid blade with good coating. Look at the Extrema Ratio Fulcrum for a good field knife that also easily takes the role of a fighting knife.
If you want the extreme you can look at the Extrema Ratio Supressor for a really wicked fighting knife.
FYI: The Ka-Bar has a seven inch blade.
I m very big fan of Army tools equipment and weapons & at the most I love the knives they carry. I have seen so many videos on Knife and their feature comparisons but the way he has explained pros and cons and also gave insight how good knives actually work was an awesome 👏🏻,I would like to rate this video with 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Please come up with few more such video...
Most impressive collection I've seen ..... ohhh rah!
The Ka-Bar is not too different from the original Bowie knife. It looks like Jim Bowie had a pretty good handle on fighting knives.
There's an interesting video on Bowie and his knife, on TH-cam. Apparently no one knows for certain what knife he used. It's very likely he used a large kitchen knife in his "Sandbar fight". The "Bowie knife" attributed to him is a figment of Hollywood in the 1950's & 60's. The Ka-Bar was just a modification of earlier versions of that blade shape.
You pick the combat knife you love! too many alleged military experts and former soldiers put down a lot of outstanding knives simply because they pussed out and didn't want to carry it based on its weight. I'm old school heavy rucksack and heavy bunker gear + SCBA veteran. I love carrying heavy loads and it builds up muscle memory, if you're already carrying heavy loads another half pound activates your pansy gene? I never got this ideology. Thanks for the video and the post great job!
The blade on the Ontario bayonet is the same as the SP6, which is a better clip point grind than the kabar. The kabar is a utility knife. The SP6 and bayonet have a longer sharp clip point. Also a less of a sabre grind, which is essy to sharpen. The SP6 even though it has no steel guard is very quick and light in the hand. You can also buy a Ontario with a steel gaurd the freedom fighter same blade. All have same profile as bayonet. 5160 steel
I have a few knives that are more fighting knife but still can be Bush knives.
Benchmade Centago one piece is a sharp, not very scary looking but solid built. Only criticism is lack of a lanyard hole. So I drilled through the grip panels and made my own.
Hogue EX01. Solid one piece knife. It has a small her wrench to remove the sales to lash it to a stick to make a speed. Unfortunately, the hex wrench is junk and the tip broke off. Disappointing.
Cold Steel Recon Tanto. Good sharp solid fighting knife. Very light fir quick direction changes. Have had it fir 20 years.
Tops Steel Eagle 107C. Solid huge knife for camp and survival. Chops branches, sticks, notching saw on back. Can chop, hack, slice, stab with equal ease.
Recently got the Slysteel Spectre Survival Combat knife. Excellent. Recurred. Ut not a kukri. Made by Tops, thick blade. Sharp. Can hack, chop, slash, stab, slice. Can chop bush like a machete, can take a head off like a kukri. Amazing. My current favorite 4 or 2 legged predators knife.
Sly Steel Skeletak dagger double edged blade. Great last ditch concealed knife. Super sharp and readily carried in boot, removal scales to make an even more slender blade for thr boot carry or strap as a spray.
That was a great review Devil Dog. I look at knives in the field in a layer approach. You have your large Swiss Army knife or Camp knife in your pocket. A small dagger type knife with quick access for larger work, and MRE crap. Then you have your main large combat knife that is 6-8 inches with a heavy blade. I have a lot of the knives that you showed. I like Cold Steel too. You narrowed your topic to combat fighting knife which was excellent. Now take the knives that you would use in combat and also for bush craft. Outstanding job on the video. Keep up the great work!!! Semper Fi!!!
The double bladed want to see KRT my pastor use that when he was in Iraq that was a knife that he loved and then I got it it’s a wonderful life but he said he love that knife at work. God bless you and your family God bless the world is always get along.
19:11 - you are right, I couldn't even find it on the internet 😂
Welcome Home, my Brother!
He is not kidding at all about the Busse Team Gemini. That is a Daryl Dixon character knife that looks very Bayonet. The steel on those were generally his INFINI Steel. Love it. Cannot afford it, and the lack of Rubber Handle makes it unlikely I would use it.
The other Busse/SYKCO Regulator was originally a 7.5" Clip Point blade in all black for Mila Jovovich in Resident Evil, all black with a Rhino Liner finish. The Resoprine-C handle is what makes this 52100 ball bearing steel monster a worthy bushcraft Batton/Chopper. Should be fine for a half day of chopping and battoning.
I bought one unused. The Second one was used has shows the slight smear wear of being battoned through a log. It was used to kill 2 chickens in my presence.
What he had was a camo drop point blade. Nice work, but seeing the scene where Mila chooses the Regulator over the MP5PDW I was sold.
I really agree with his CS Recon Scout presentation as well. The Rubberized handle will make that great on the battoning. That one might be the now discontinued O-1 Tool Steel. There are no longer Black and they are now in CPM3V for every bit of $400. (I got one under $200 before they corrected their SKU #, what a DEAL on a large piece of CPM3V). Same sort of fever hit me was the SRK started to come in in CPM3V and I sold off the Blackened Sk-5, but not the O-1 Recon Scout, NO WAY! That might need a collector to pay $500 for that.
When seeing some Team Gemini were made in A2 I started looking for some A2 steel in the 6-7" range. Busse was either unobtainium or not the right length as he started making some compacts. Then after this Vid came out, Houge was making A2 Side Slab Micarta Handled Bush Knives. I missed out on the Green 7" w/Green Handles, but found a 5. Violating my Rubber Handle Rule, the 7" is on One Vest and the Used Regulator is on the Other Vest.
Read as much as you can on Steels, the on Hardening, and then look for deals on the Size of Metal you want. Also, watch for popular items that are closing out for whatever reason. Prices can rise when they are no longer available.
THIS STUFF IS A DISEASE!
Regarding al the kit you carry as a soldier. All your kit is 'battle order' meaning all the kit you need to survive, live. Then you have combat order. This is when you strip down all the kit you carry, down to what you need in a fight ie: weapon, ammo, water, 'knife' etc. That Ontario big bowie was for machine gunners, so they can use for clearing ground around them and to use as a weapon. As a infantry soldier a few knives shown here would be good ie: recon scout, recon tanto, busse knives would be good in combat order. Cold steel peace keeper is a good dagger. These other mentioed are good strong knives. There is alot of rubbish sold as combat knives, and hundreds called navy seal knives. Which is just marketing. Which target the gullible.
Enjoying your video series. I have to say though, glad you included the Moccasin Ranger from Tops in this particular video as this knife's origin literally comes from combat in WWII and even on our current battlefield. The Cherokee Indian who led the unit the knife is named after wielded the knife this knife is designed after along with his tomahawk against enemies.
The bayonet you were issued was the M7 I have 3 one Imperial two ontario, the OKCS3 is a badass mother.
Love SOGs, Spyderco folders, and my Buck 110 Hunter Great videos
I carried a M3 in the field… Perfect stabber!