Order of the Sacred Rose - Tweaking Old Schemes [How I Paint Things]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- Sometimes you're just not in the mood to paint. It happens to all of us at some point or other, I'm pretty sure! So I find the easiest way to ease back into the process is with something familiar, and to just enjoy the process or take the opportunity to tweak a couple of things along the way.
The Order of the Sacred Rose have a reputation for being difficult to paint due to their white armour - well, now you've seen two different methods on the channel which should get your Sororitas on the table as quickly as possible without sacrificing too much in terms of looks!
00:00 - Intro
02:02 - Assembly Notes & Priming
03:32 - Contrast Basecoats
11:59 - Shading - Making Marine Juice
13:56 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
15:09 - The Finished Palatine
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
/ sonicsledgehammer
/ sonicsledge
/ sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
exit23.games
THE BASE: Vallejo Brown Earth texture paste, drybrushed with Tyrant Skull. Add tufts to taste, paint the base rim XV-88. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Matt Black, Matt White (Army Painter)
CITADEL:
Guilliman Flesh (Contrast)
Blood Angels Red (Contrast)
Gore-Grunta Fur (Contrast)
Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Black Templar (Contrast)
Black Legion (Contrast)
Aethermatic Blue (Contrast)
Marine Juice - Dark Tone, Reikland Fleshshade, Lahmian Medium
ARMY PAINTER:
Murder Scene (Speedpaint)
Bony Matter (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Hoplite Gold (Speedpaint)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
VALLEJO:
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar) - เกม
![Wasteland Raiders - Back to Basics: Drybrushing & Washes [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M1Fc0pOBxqM/mqdefault.jpg)
Sorry to hear about your loss, sir. We're glad to have you back.
Nice to see the metallic speedpaints darkening in the recesses really well over white
Watching a classic painting video is it's own flavour of comfort food 👍 well done
this mini, if you remove the jetpack, and replace the gun with any sword, is a beautiful DnD mini....amazing color scheme
She'd not look bad as a cleric, for sure. Though I don't know how many gods in the D&D pantheon are such fans of skulls all over their minions! 😂
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Shar maybe? 😅
Bhaal and Myrkul. They seem skullish.
OMGosh, I missed that community post. My deepest condolences.
awesome to see you painted up a cool Sister.
Thanks for the video. I'll be painting some Comstar mechs soon, and your walkthrough has removed some fear of painting good amounts of white.
Thank you , Troy .
🐺 Loupis Canis .
Fantastic Miniature and its good to see you Back in the sattle, Hope you are doing well.
The model looks great and your skills are fantastic. I can understand going back to what is familiar. I have more kits than I can imagine yet I find myself going back to other parts of the hobby that I enjoy more at this time. Take care and I look forward to your next subject.
This is cool. Some really great cheats and techniques that I can use. Never going to paint this faction, but will use this as a white technique for the future.
Great to see you back and I hope you find some comfort in the hobby.
I'm really struggling to find a speed painting method for my Sisters because I really like the black ones like Ebon Chalice and Martyred Lady. This Sacred Rose and your Bloody Rose Sister look so good but I think it's hard to get thay same depth and detail on the armour when the wash doesnt contrast so well against the black.
Try starting from a dark grey instead - something like Eshin Grey heavily overbrushed over a black primer, then give it a Dark Tone wash before a couple of highlights. It's one way of getting a bit of depth in there! Plus the Dark Tone does have a nice semi-gloss finish when you use it neat, good for armour.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Interesting, I'll give it a try. Thanks!
Lovely work as usual.
Great video as always 👍
That's looking really great.
A very impressive mini, the White armour is really ok, expecially with the black & red cape. GW's Apothecary White could be a good alternative if someone doesn't have spray cans for zenithal priming.
You always make speed painting look good. I have a whole custom order of sisters that take me way too long to do. I'm way too far into them now. I did happen though to get a half price combat patrol recently and have been considering finally doing some Sacred rose sisters. So thank you for the updated Video.
More often than not, what speeds up 'speed' painting for me isn't so much the technique as it is to go in with a plan, and know from step to step what's next, what colour I'll need, what to do after each drying time... Breaking it down ahead of time really helps!
Thanks for this ONE!
Sorry for your loss! 💞
Sorry for your loss…❤
Weird I was looking at the OG. Video of this scheme on the channel just the other day.
Marine Juice for the win.
I'm about to start tackling my Sisters army and love this plan of attack for Sacred Rose. Instead of straight white I'm planning on using a colorshift pearl for the armor. I'm curious if you would apply that early over the base and proceed as you do here? I'm going to have to experiment, but I'd love to hear how you would approach it.
Just rewatched this and i'm still amazed by the power of marine juice!
Do you have any guidance in rehards to how dark a colour it would work on? I am plannin the painting of my dark angels army, and think marine juice could be nice on deathwing, however would love if it also workshop on the dark green to keep them as similar as possible.
In fact, I would love to see an updated tyske on deathwing 😁
You'd be surprised what Marine Juice can still work on. More or less anything that isn't pure black will take something from it; dark green will enhance the shading of the faint red tint in there, turning it a dark purple by comparison, and the little bit of black won't hurt. Of course, it doesn't hurt to paint up a leg or something spare and see what you think!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio awesome, I will definately give it a go! On that note, have you tried updating the recipe to the new army painter warpaints fanatic line? The mid brown wash does not exist anymore, so I would like to get your recomendation for an alternative.
Do you think a (very rough) basecoat of blue or green might give a decent marmor effect? Those speckles might be a great starting point for marmor, just need an idea how to bring in some additional colour 😊
No idea, honestly. I don't think it's going to give the veined, marbled appearance you'd want without getting in and painting those but I could be wrong; I think there's probably better marble methods out there, though.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks for your input. I was curious as the texture you achieved seemed a good base but most probably you are right
Hi there! May I know the Citadel Contrast equivalent of Murder Scene?
There isn't really a direct 1:1 equivalent, though Sigvald Burgundy is probably the closest. It's not quite as dark, but it'll work just fine.
Is that home-made lahmian medium? If so, how did you make it?
No. It's from the bottle. If it were home made I'd have mentioned. 😅 I put some of my shades and mediums into dropper bottles so I can accurately measure out mixes.
Can I still use Nuln Oil instead of Dark Tone? The previous recipe was 1:1:1. What made you change to Dark Tone?
I have been struggling with the application of Marine Juice. Do you find you need to varnish with satin or gloss before applying?
Struggling how? It's a little hard to offer suggestions without knowing what the result you're getting is like. 😅 You don't need varnish beforehand, though. Most commonly the problem is not having enough on your brush when applying it; use a larger brush, and apply 'too much' to begin with. Then as it settles, if you get any pooling on flat areas where you don't want it, wick the excess away with a damp - not wet - brush.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Ah sorry, should be more specific: I often end up with it being too sticky, too staining, too splotchy. I added more medium, and I do apply the "more than I need" at once. While drying it looks great and like the video, but once dried the splotches and such begin to show. Thanks for helping!
@@SodaPaints Huh... that's *weird.* Especially the stickiness. You're definitely using Lahmian Medium as the thinner in this, I'm guessing? I'm honestly a little baffled by that one. If nothing else, try applying it with your brush traveling in the same direction as much as possible so you've got some control over where it'll settle; wherever you pull your brush away from the miniature, you'll naturally end up with a slight blobbing of the mix. Hopefully that helps!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I will give that a try, thanks! I did also try the version with the AP speeddpaint medium, and had similar results.