Fritz and Franz with DRO (digital read out)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- The outrigger fence on my sliding table saw has a DRO - but it is mostly useless for pieces less than 8" or so.
Since precision measurement is an integral part of my approach to woodworking - I have been wanting to build a Fritz and Franz jig with a DRO.
I scoured the web and TH-cam for examples, but couldn't find anything.
So, I came up with my own. This video is not a how-to for making the jig - its more of an overview that hopefully will help those who are inclined to make one for themselves.
There's a couple of good TH-cam videos on the Fritz & Franz that can recommend:
Steve at Extreme Woodworker • Updating the Fritz and... (I borrowed a couple of Steve's ideas)
David Bedrosian
• BedrosianWoodworks Fri...
I don't have enough experience with this particular DRO to recommend it, but this is the one I used in the video.
www.igagingsto...
If you own a slider and have made a Fritz & Franz jig with a DRO - please comment below and tell me how it went.
![[UNCUT] “อภิสิทธิ์” ครม.อุ๊งอิ๊ง แย่งเก้าอี้กันฝุ่นตลบ “ทักษิณ” บงการเอง Iคนดังนั่งเคลียร์I 21ส.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/a_b-kItw2jY/mqdefault.jpg)
Heads up on that wooden handle. It will be prone to snapping. Stanly added a steel rod in their handles. Just look at any old Stanly hand plane.
Can’t wait to add this to my fritz and franz!
Thank you Darrell! This was very interesting.
thank you , Willy - you're welcome!
Great video and thanks Darrell. I agree on the commercially available flip stops and have found the Woodhaven versions I used to be too wiggly and not necessarily square. Good idea on the DRO and flip stops. I think I will do some upgrades to mine. Steve
thanks, Steve
Great video! Try putting a wave washer between the body of the DRO and the bracket. If you can't find a wave washer an internal tooth lock washer would probably work also but I would try 1 of these on each side of the bracket. If you have a local hardware store they should be able to fix you up. Our big box stores in the Texas panhandle don't show to stock many of either type. A last resort would be an auto parts store. I sure miss the 4 locally owned hardware stores that all died in the 90s and early 2000s. They had a lot of neat stuff that the big box stores never dreamed of stocking and most of them wouldn't have a clue what they were looking at.
Thanks - I’ll try a wave washer!
Great ideas Darrell and great video! I think I need to do a version :)
Thanks,Ron
Great work! I have a slider, recently built a fritz and Franz jig and am waiting for parts for DRO - I live in Germany and things are slow! I am experimenting with an electronic version which is only accurate to millimeter, and may try adopting your solution now. Some of the work I do requires great and repeatable precision. I built a sliding table addition to my bandsaw, and really wanted to/ need this there. I just started getting ready to do videos again, I will post when complete and share. Thank you very much for sharing your work, I appreciate it.
thanks, Colin. I would be interested to see what you come up with.
The other approach is to put a DRO on the rip fence and use it as the measuring stop, my F&F jig is two pieces of MDF with nothing on then because every cut is measured from the rip fence. I cut a 200mm length of fence and put that on the rip fence head which means I don't have any fence to walk around and I hardly ever do any ripping using the rip fence instead it is all done on the slider.
That's an interesting approach - I like its simplicity. My situation is a bit different - I use my rip fence on a regular basis for ripping. My other restriction is that when I went to add a DRO to my rip fence I found that Felder makes more than one "knuckle" (the cast iron part of the rip fence that the aluminum fence slides on) . The knuckle that came with my saw does not accept the DRO.
I hardly ever use the rip fence unless the piece can't be ripped on the sliding table as the finished face is a far better finish and it is far safer.
Excellent work!! Thanks for making this video!! I need to take this same build soon as well as make some pneumatic clamps similar to those on your slider. Researching to source all the parts and fittings is so time consuming. This really helps!
7months later it s there anything you’d change on v2.0? Do you find the jig(s) line up repeatable in the huge t slot on the felder slider? Like, each time you remove and replace then do they line up parallel to each other and square to the table? This has been my biggest concern having never used a fritz n franz jig before
Thanks... No problem with the two parts lining up. If I were to make another version I would try to make the stops smaller - they prevent me from cutting somewhat narrow stock.
Good advice, thanks again. I now have two 500mm DRO’s on order. I think this one will be a bit of fun!
Excellent shot setup with interesting background that is tastefully out of focus! Nice video with solid info!
Thanks PK, This video was the first use of my new Nikon NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S Lens. I originally bought it to shoot my furniture because it was rated very high for sharpness. But it’s also rated high for bokeh (which I had no clue what that was). Bokeh as it turns out is the out of focus area in the background - it’s very soft. I think I’ll use it for future videos too.
BTW - I watched your video on the AD-941 several times before mine arrived ( I know you’ve got a bigger/badder JP now)
Darrell, Thank you for the video! I will definitely build one for my saw. Could you tell me if the DRO you have on your crosscut fence is commercially available or if it was made by you as well? Thank you!
Thanks - The DRO on my fence was made by Lamb Tool Works. lambtoolworks.com/dro-flipstop
Thank you!