Updating the Fritz and Franz Jig
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- This video shows my new and improved Fritz and Franz jig for the sliding tablesaw. Updates include the ability to clamp the leading portion of the jig anywhere along the sliding table, includes flip stops (one with micro-adjust), replaceable fence plates, and scales that can be calibrated. The calibration of the scales is near the end of the video. There is a slight wobble in the back left corner of the jig caused by some not so flat baltic birch ply. This does not seem to adversely affect the accuracy of the jig.
The components I used for this build are:
Base: 18mm Baltic Birch Plywood
Runners: 1/2" HDPE sheet
Fence plates: 18mm Baltic Birch and/or hardwood sized to suit
Woodhaven Flip stops: www.woodhaven....
Woodhaven Micro adjust: www.woodhaven....
Nylon 7 arm knobs 1/4-20 x 1-1/8" long stud: www.mcmaster.c...
80/20 extrusion 2525 (length to suit): 8020.net/25-25...
80/20 extrusion 2550 (length to suit): 8020.net/25-25...
80/20 tee nuts 1/4-20 (qty as needed): 8020.net/25-32...
Flat head countersunk machine screws 1/4-20 x 3/4": local Fastenal p/n 2124224
Buttonhead screw for handle (5/16-18 x 1"): local Fastenal
Tee Slot Nut (saw dependent): www.mcmaster.c...
Adjustable Handle M12x1.75mm 32mm long stud: www.mcmaster.c...
Jig Handle (JW Winco): www.jwwinco.co...
Fence scale metal: www.kregtool.c...
Fence scale plastic: www.mcmaster.c...
The video for the original F&F jig is here: • Fritz and Franz Slider...
Thanks for putting this together Steve! I really like the way this locks anywhere on the slider and not just up against the fence.
Thank you Guy. I miss your videos. Steve
Once in a while the planets actually align (and my hoarding behavior is validated), and I actually have every piece of hardware and material needed to build something the same way you did! Time to update F&F to 2.0... Well done sir.
Thank you Kevin. Have fun with the build. Steve
Hi Steve. It been a year since I've ordered my new K700S, and now its finally on a freight truck and headed my way! Love your videos you do on your Martin slider. When I view one of your videos I get very anxious to get started with a new way of wood processing, from the way I've been doing it for the last 25 + years (american cabinet saws) Your videos have been priceless! Thank you very much for sharing.
Awesome! The lead time is surprising but the world has been crazy since the vid hit us all. You will enjoy the K700S. Thanks again. Steve
@@extremewoodworker Is the overall size of the F&F jig important? I’m starting to think about how I want to build mine. Has the runner material you’ve used in your updated jig working out for you? Can that plastic material be milled through a planer as well? Thx
@@tundrawhisperer4821 The overall size is not critical but I wouldn't want it to hang over the sliding table by too much. The UHMW poly used for the runner was cut on the tablesaw. I did not run the UHMW through a planer. Steve
@@extremewoodworker Thank you Steve. In the video you mention the use of HDPE for the runners, is that the same as the UHMW you just mentioned in your last response? Sorry I’m not up on my plastics too much.
@@tundrawhisperer4821 I don't think they are the same and I think what I used was UHMW which will probably wear better.
Great video , Steve. Love your modifications to the Fritz and Franz jig . I am going to make one fairly close to what you did here. Your slider saw videos are wonderful!
Thank you Darrell. I love your videos as well. Steve
Steve, you are my 'sensei' as I made my F&F jig after I saw your original video; it is/has been an invaluable addition to my Felder slider. Thanks for this update and the thought you put into it and now when I get a chance maybe I'll make an upgraded version as well! Best, MIke
Thank you Mike. Steve
I had been lagging on making a F&F and now I'm glad I did. Awesome stuff Steve.
Thank you. Enjoy the jig, it has been a game changer for me (including the earlier version). Steve
This is a great video, very informative. Thank you for making the parts list available -- a huge time-saver !
Thank you Rich.
Great update Steve, I now have all the parts and pieces ordered.
Thanks Steve. The 80/20 aluminum was the long lead item for me. It seems like I waited at least 6 weeks for it to be delivered. Steve
I guess I got lucky, the 8020 parts will be here Friday.
Thanks for the video. Just waiting for my new Martin and will attempt to follow your instructions.
Awesome, enjoy your new Martin. Steve
Looking great, Steve. Was actually waiting for you to release this, as I wanted to add a mini-Fritz and Franz jig to my table saw sled. But I decided to make it yesterday, so guess that's poor timing on my side haha. Also used alu extrusion for my sled as it was quite cheap as you said. Those flip-stops look nice too.
Thanks Michael. I seem to always make purchases the day before it goes on sale so I feel the pain. Steve
Damn you Steve, now I have to make one to replace the $2 F&F jig I made years ago. I am going to use 20 series extrusion to make a parallel cutting jig for my K3 as the stuff is so cheap and as I have always wanted a DRO on the outrigger fence I think I will make a new fence in 20**. A DRO on the standard fence is lottery number prices and will not be very usable. Thanks for taking the time to post this, it takes the F&F jig a step further.
Thanks Chris. At today's prices, it would probably be about $5. Steve
Great video Steve. Well thought out. I think I see one of these in my future :)
Thanks Ron. Everything except the DRO and the not so flat base came out as I expected. I had actually purchased a 36" iGaging DRO that I was planning on cutting down but it was a bit too cumbersome with a large display and excess cable. What would be ideal is to find a Wixey type unit with 24" length and a horizontal display but haven't found a suitable option. Steve
@@extremewoodworker I was thinking about the DRO as well. Need to install one as you did on my drum sander - as you pointed out the PM unit is not useful
Nice. I like these updates.
Thank you Pete. Steve
Thanks for the great update. Everything you did makes a lot of sense. I was thinking of making one out of 1/2"x3" aluminum and long enough (24" plus) so it becomes almost a parallel cutting device. I have the x-roll parallel cutting device and I'm not all that happy with it for smaller widths. Maybe making one your width and also a longer one would make sense for me as I make a lot of cabinets and the rips are often 24" or 12". Was also thinking of a way to make it possible to clamp material to the jig.
Hi Tom. I know what you mean about the parallel fence setting. Even on the Martin I can only get it to within about 0.5mm of the crosscut fence stop. The F&F jig takes a lot of the guess work out of the equation and makes a lot of sense for the rip cuts as you describe. I would suggest doing a quick check to make sure you will be happy with the overhang if you go with a 24" width. Steve
Like b4 watching :) been waiting for this!
Love it. Gotta have it! Thanks kind Sir.
Thank you Pat.
Nice project Steve. Could not find the plans on Festool. One question on size of bases. 2’ x ? ( looks like 10” and 14”?). Thanks
Have you ever consider a jig to do compound miter cuts, but having the blade always at 90 degrees? I would like to make pyramid roofs for my birdhouses. So the wood pieces would be held at different angles so there would be no need to constantly tilt the blade.
Hi Robert. I haven't considered doing so but if I made the same thing multiple times, a jig would make more sense. Steve
What a beautiful jig! And great tip with the standard extrusions. Will incorporate that when I finally built a F&F. ...one thought: I think I‘ll try to mount the scales to the extrusion so I can move the wooden pieces a few mm towards the blade when they wear out and get a new “zero clearance” edge. (Also nice for different blades) Any thoughts why that might be a bad idea?
There is not sufficient room on the 2525 extrusion for a scale so if you intend on doing so, make both of them 2550 extrusions and place the scale between the two slots. You would also need to think through how you would calibrate the scale since moving the extrusion would also move the stop. I think it can be done but is a bit more tedious than the method I used. Also be aware that when the flip stop is in the down position making a reading would be more difficult. Steve
Steve -
Thanks for the great videos!
I am (finally) building a F&F modeled after your “updated version”.
Now that you’ve used it, would you leave the front & rear fences at ~25mm(minus the rabbet/dado) high, or would you make them taller ?
I am considering milling down Kreg flipstops to height, and need to decide on the final height.
The Kreg’s have magnifier crosshairs for the measuring tape, good for my old eyes, thx ……
Hi Rich. My preference is shorter for easy access as I mostly use the F&F for short and thin stock. Steve
@@extremewoodworker makes sense, thanks..
Jointech router lift and fence. Wow that’s a blast from the past. I’ve got them also. However I’ve never used them. The fence clencher micro adjust doesn’t move the fence very well. Does yours work? Cool video by the way.
Thanks David. I purchased the router table used and would have preferred the Incra fence but you have to get what is available. I don't care for the fence much as the micro-adjust is finnicky. Sometimes it works, sometimes not and I really can't figure out why. Steve
@@extremewoodworker I think your results with the fence micro adjust are as I am seeing. I also bought it used with a bunch of other items so it was basically free for all intents and purposes. The lift though is very nice but I still don’t use it either. But it is a nice sound lift. Crazy to see you have them both. Lol. Thanks again for your videos. They are very interesting.
Great work Steve
Looking at your video I have noticed somewhere around 7:24 min on your router table fence with a black-colored scale.
Do you can tell me what the manufacturer is because I'm from Croatia and I have not seen such a tool yet.
Thank you in advance
Thank you Nebojsa. The router fence is a Jointech but they have been out of business for about 15 years. I believe the Incra fence is a much better fence system than the Jointech (I purchased this one used). Here is a link to the Incra website and they do have several dealers in Europe. incra.com/index.html
Steve
Steve, I am a new subscriber to your channel and I found you when I was considering making a purchase of a sliding table saw for my wood business Working The Grain Hardwoods in Bentonville, AR. I love the F&F update and was if you have plans available?
Hi Mark. I do not have plans for the F&F update as it was pretty much built on the fly. I visited your store late last year on the way to Rogers and purchased some Peruvian Walnut. You were not there but I did meet your son. Thanks,
Steve
Thank you for the reply and letting me know about the plans. We would love to have you visit us again soon!
The left table rolls, and dose not slide. t'hank you for your tine making your video.
How did you ensure the fence was perfectly perpendicular to the blade? That's the one thing I can't quite figure out from your video. I'd be worried about a tiny deviation as I milled the slot for the runners, or installed one of the runners.
Hi Morgan. I did this jig similar to my first Fritz and Franz video which is here: th-cam.com/video/Q0PyFjtSHrE/w-d-xo.html
Starting about 7 minutes in shows the construction of the jig. Hopefully, that will make it clear. Steve
Steve, do the flip stops have two different locking positions, in relationship to the mounting body? So essentially a front and back position? I’m looking at the 4514 on the Woodhaven site and they don’t show the depth to have a wood runner in the front of them. But you clearly have a wood front in front of yours. Thx
Tundra, I called to verify before ordering. The flip stop comes disassembled and during assembly, I just turned the body backwards from that shown in the Woodhaven photo (i.e. - the tee slot in the mounting body faces away from the fence instead of toward the fence). This gives clearance for about a 5/8" thick fence. Steve
@@extremewoodworker At the 15:00 mark in the video you are adjusting the sacrificial/scale/chip breaker fence in order to calibrate. Since this has the scale tape installed on it, if it ever needed to be recalibrated, do you pretty much have to replace the scale tape or entire fence? Because one of two things would be lost, the scale tape would then be too far off to register one way or the chip breaker feature wouldn’t meet the saw blade edge anymore the other way? Thx Steve
@@tundrawhisperer4821 You are correct. When I need a sacrificial fence, I replace it with one that does not have a scale. Steve
@@extremewoodworker Hi Steve, I’m about to install my measure tape onto the sacrificial fence and go through the calibration front first ever built F&F jig. When you completed your calibration, you never did cut through the measure tape, correct? You kept it far enough back so the final calibration cut did not cut through it? Thx So far I’m very pleased with how mine turned out. His is going to be a very handy jig!
@@tundrawhisperer4821 It depends on the scale. With the plastic scale I cut through it with the blade. For the metal tape I trimmed it back prior to installation. Steve
Hi Steve - I’m finding it impossible to locate an exact size match for the t-nut for the Felder K700S slider track. I’ve looked on the McMaster site and they don’t have the exact size that matches the one t-nut I received from Felder. But my question is, does it have to be an exact fit or did you just find the next size down that would fit your slider slot? Felder wants $34.90 for one t-nut, OUCH!!! hoping I can find an aftermarket one. Thx
It should be fairly loose in the slot but as I recall, I had some difficulty finding a tee slot nut that would fit the Felder slot as well. I'll check my XRoll tee slot tomorrow to see what I use. If you think the part is OUCH, wait for the shipping charges. Just last week I received a $52 part from Felder and was charged over $29 for UPS ground shipping on a package weighing under 4 pounds.
I checked and what I use in my X-Roll table tee slot is the Aigner tee nut Article no. 212 187 000 172. These are available from Martin Machinery. You can check with them or one of their dealers. www.simantechinc.com/ lists these for $13 each. It may not be the best choice for the F&F jig as it fits very loosely in the slot and probably won't be easy to align with the kip lever. I previously used a piece of baltic birch ply and inserted an EZLoc threaded insert making my own tee nut of sorts. I have also had machine shops make me custom tee nuts in the past but it cost more than the Felder items. Hope this helps. Steve
@@extremewoodworker Thank You Steve! I will definitely go look for that. So does the Martin have the same Xroll table as the Felder machines? You weren’t kidding about shipping rates these days either. Recently bought some accessories from Felder, and about fell over at the shipping cost for the two items. One more question, you have a scale on both sides for the F&F jig, but how often do you actually use the scale on the back side? My thinking on this is if your making parallel, could a person just set the front flip stop measurement first, then push up to the other flip stop and bring them flush, or inline with one another? And on small width cross cuts, when using the F&F jig, do you just use only the front flip stop mostly? Thx again!
@@tundrawhisperer4821 The Martin slider is completely different from the Felder design. I use the scale on the back side as frequently as I do the front because I will often remove the front side fence and replace it with a waste fence (with no scale) since I make a lot of beveled cuts. This minimizes tearout on both pieces captured and offcut. Because of this, I use the back flip stop as often as the front.
The method you describe is what I often use for parallel cuts even though both sides have a scale.
Steve
Nice work on the updated Fritz and Franz, Steve. I've designed one that incorporates many of the features on your version and a few more. If you are on Instagram, you can search for the hashtag #bedrosianfritzandfranz to see some videos of the jig. Keep up the great work.
Thanks David. I am not on Instagram but was able to view your video without an account. I had the same thoughts about sandpaper on the fence plate but have not decided on a final solution to increase the grip. I have made some extra fence plates and thought about trying the Festool rail grip strips but felt it would be too spongy. Let me know how the hockey tape works (it is not exactly a staple in Arkansas sporting goods stores - LOL). Steve
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