I've been in the leather hobby for years and I can understand both sides of this. "Bump jigs" are just a different way of doing something to achieve the same results. Artie at Mascon leather uses this method because it makes sense to him and he's very proficient at it. I'm not a huge proponent of bump jigs, but I do see some value in them when it comes to alignment of multiple pieces. Is it smart or lazy? It's all in the eye of the beholder. Ultimately, it all gets you to the same destination. The process is as much a style as is the finished product.
Good luck trying to afford one of Mascon's bump jigs or metal curve templates. Way overpriced for what they are, I think his son makes them all. Quality items for sure, but I see this money better spent on buying leather or pricking irons. Just my two cents.
@@johnnyc.5979 They are nice tools, but the cost to value ratio isn't enough to compel me to buy. Artie is allowed to set the prices at whatever he wants. It's up to the consumer to determine the value in them. Many may not, but some will. Nevertheless, I wish Artie success.
@@ManCity-5Peat-Loading just because something is overpriced doesnt mean you should spend more money than it's intrinsically worth, irrespective of how much money one makes. Do you buy things that are clearly overpriced indifferent to what their value actually is? If so, my advice for you friend is that you may just want to reconsider your spending habits.
I was very skeptical the first time I saw Artie use bump jigs and I had no idea what was going on. So I basically did what you did, I tried it out and eventually started actually practicing. Before long I noticed I can cut wallets out quicker using the bump jigs. Once I cut one pocket piece with the bump jig I'm already 3/4 of the way to cutting out that same pocket again. Also my cardboard patterns were getting warped on the edges by dragging the awl across it which doesn't happen with the bump jigs. Really you have to understand which jigs you're going to use for which cut ahead of time and get it placed on the proper side of your body. I use this technique exclusively and it's a huge time saver, it has noticeably cut down on production time.
I have done both bump and trace. It comes down to what you are comfortable with and how you want your craft to grow. I prefer the bumps on most projects but don’t hold myself to one method.
Finally someone covered "Bump Jig" .you are right it's much faster to cut from template layout. also if you see the price of all the items that that company sells its CRAZY!!! hay go and price New leather Square , wow I'll stick with my walmart Square
Right, wasn't totally intrested in the jigs but was like f it let's see what they have, bruh I laughed so hard wen I saw the prices, shrugged and said out loud guess you aint gotta sell many to make money at a price like that
This isn't the first video that you've touted skill over tools. Especially when it comes to using rulers and things as opposed to practicing a steady hand, and I want to say it was a good thing to hear! I've started really trying to cut more accurately freehand and it's been challenging, but also freeing. To know that not only is it possible to cut well without assistance, but also a skill worth developing, was super helpful. It's easy to buy into the hype that some people who don't know any better raise about methods and tools, but knowing you've been around for so long in the leathercraft business makes your advice so much more realistic and reliable to me. Thanks to both of you for such great content!
Thanks! From experience, skill is just the most valuable thing you can invest in when you're getting started - muscle memory and technique will help you avoid injury and you'll avoid the limitations of being bound to a specific tool down the road when you want to dive into making bigger and more complicated things. It's not particularly good for "monetizing" our videos because like...just buy a ruler and you're good to go. But imo it's the only way I'd ever teach anyone because it's the way you'll be the most free to make whatever you can imagine in the craft :)
@@Corter I've been consuming content from Corter and ..the other folks for a long time now, and for me, it basically comes down to this: Is INSERT MONO TOOL HERE useful? If you get good with it, yes. Can you just get good with your fundamentals instead? Also yes.
I broke my collarbone two weeks ago and only discovered your videos 4 days ago, you have inspired me to work with leather and be positive about my recovery! Keep up the great work!
It takes me about 25 sec to cut out my pattern pieces using the bump jig method and I’m 10x more accurate that way too. Just my preferred method. To each his own
"bump jig" is just a glorified ruler. If you need to cut out a pattern, you're going to be scratching your pattern on anyways.... so just use a ruler? It just over complicates things
I'm a precision hound who has an unhealthy obsession with over-complicating things 😂 I was woodworking prior to leather working so I grew an obsession with getting things square, and bump jigs became something of a godsend for me. I promptly ordered these carpentry squares when I first saw them. They are definitely unnecessary but they bring me comfort when I align and glue things up for consistency. The ironic thing is, once everything it obsessive-compulsively aligned, I scribe a line and trim with a round knife to give it a final "impertectly hand-crafted" look.
Eric, thank you so much for making this video. I follow the leather crafter who uses (and sells) bump jigs too. He does beautiful work. Like you, I was curious about the bump-jig method, and like you I went onto Amazon and bought those exact same red angles that you have. I tried the bump-jig method, but my brain and my hands kept getting crossed up. I think that the technique might be worth practicing IF (notice the big IF here) you want to make many, many copies of the exact same pattern at the same time. In his shop, he does a lot of production work, and it looks like he duplicates his products many times over in a short period of time. I can see where getting good with bump jigs might speed the process up. Some people use clicker jigs to go faster, he uses bump jigs. I'm slow and low production, so I'll just keep using a knife and a ruler. I'm glad it wasn't just me being slow on the uptake. You came to the same conclusion I did. Thanks for doing this video, you probably made a bunch of us feel better.
True! I'd suggest looking to pattern plastic, you can get hundreds of uses out of a pattern and still cut the material with an exacto blade. Very useful :)
I get the thin dollar tree cutting mats, comes in a 2 pack, and make my pattern on that. I’ve used the same pattern over 30 times and it’s still perfectly fine.
@@Corteryou say build a better pattern. Others say use tools that eliminate the problem entirely. It’s preference. How about don’t dog someone else’s technique. I use both methods depending on what I’m doing. It all has value.
Mascon Leather is a master at using "bump jigs". He uses it a lot for uniform size without measuring. As a woodworker to any time you can avoid using a ruler to make multiple pieces the same size your ahead
Yea I fully understand streamlining workflow - I guess the thing I don't understand is that in woodwork you'd use a stop block. done. With the bump jig method you're taking the time to learn a method juggling 2 rulers and 3 jigs to make one cut, when you can just trace out the pattern and cut it with a single ruler. or you can use the grid on your mat without a pattern and make cuts in one physical movement instead of 4 -- objectively faster any way you look at it than the bump jig thing.
Mascon Leather is a loud mouth wannabe know-it-all who thinks he invented a method that’s been around for millennia. He wants to profit off his “invention” and will use litigation to protect his “intellectual property”.
@@Corter You might want to go back and review how the method is done. I do it with 1 bump jig and either a steel square or a ruler, depending on what I'm cutting. So, one jig and one ruler for 1 cut.
Watching every video I could, and trying it a few ways, it always takes at least 2 rulers and two jigs - the jig to bump the pattern/ material up against on the cut side, jig to butt up against the uncut side, ruler to replace the jig once you sweep away the pattern and other jig, then another ruler to cut against. That's how I watched it in the videos, so I tried to stay true to that in testing the method. But I'm sure yea, you could modify that method to become more efficient with less stuff for sure!
@@Corter Don't use the acrylic ruler. Put your bump jig down and butt the leather and pattern against it. Move the jig to the opposite edge of the pattern. Remove pattern and place ruler against bump jig. Remove bump jig and cut. One jig. One ruler.
Been leather crafting for a very long time. Make complicated breifcases builds. I really enjoy bump jigs. There is no wrong or right way of doing things, whatever works works. I have learned to not judge in this craft.
Best comment here - many complex software packages offer multiple ways to accomplish the same task. Allows everyone to find a way that works for them the best.
Bump jigs allow me to measure a pattern once and then never have to measure or trace again. From my personal experience it's faster and more accurate. As a beginner, I often run into issues of a pattern slipping while I trace. Which leads to uneven edges and more work on the back end to fix small mistakes. I've converted all my patterns to cereal boxes and use bump jigs to get perfect measurements every time. As far as speed goes, the difference in your time is definitely time spent using a method. What took you 15 seconds to trace and cut a pattern would take me several minutes. If you used a bump jig method as long as youve used trace and cut, you would be close to equally as fast. Bump jigs cut my time down because I'm not constantly trying to line up a ruler on an imperfect trace. That's just my preference.
Can you explain to me why you'd have to measure a pattern again once it's made regardless of method? that's the thing that seems to be coming up a lot - "I can measure a pattern once and never again". That's like...kinda the point of patterns, you print them out and don't have to worry about measurements because you know they've been designed already. Regarding the straight cuts and slipping, these are all things I'd worry about with a beginner learning with this method. Being able to trace a pattern and make a straight cut in leather is a core skill, I can see how this method would be a quick way to get better results fast but it's akin to dropping a prefab home on a dirt pad - you're not building your skill on a strong foundation, one day the rest of your skills will catch up and your inability to cut or trace will be a limiting factor in letting you advance further. That'd be my worry with a beginner learning this method.
@@Corter let me give more context on measuring once. What I mean by this is when you cut your pattern the first time, your cuts may not be perfect. The outline of a pattern you are cutting can deviate depending on how thick the black line is or if your ruler is slightly off. Then you're tracing an imperfect pattern to leather. When I transfer my patterns to cereal boxes I use the pattern as a guide. I'll measure the pattern and when I cut the cereal box, im 1000% sure every line is perfect to the exact measurement. Then when using bump jigs I never have to worry about one side being 1/16 of an inch off etc. As for cutting with a ruler and tracing a pattern, you're right. This is a basic skill everyone should properly learn. My issue is I am an imperfect perfectionist. Which requires me to spend significant amounts of time making sure my ruler is perfectly straight along a traced line. It creates room for error and unfortunately it's not something I can easy live with. Bump jigs resolve this issue for me.
Do you sand your edges after you glue and stitch? Traditional craft, and french style construction, would just have you overcut your pocket, glue it, then trim it. That's how I usually do most things both in the shop and on video, I guess I"m just now realizing people are trying to cut out pieces that are exactly matching so they can glue up a perfect seam and not do any trimming.
@@Corter I hardly use trim tolerances because it usually requires me to cut through 4+ layers. Just more room for error. I sand my edges, but the closer they are to being perfectly aligned the less sanding I have to do to get a good edge. I use bump jigs to glue all my pieces as well.
I use bump jigs. I like bump jigs. I own a bump jig or two. Some I’ve had made and one was purchased (Mascon Zeebee, love it!). They are smaller than a combination square. Takes up less room. Mostly use them for alignment at glue up or stamping logos. Using paper templates does not interest me other than prototypes. I found a local guy with a laser that has custom cut acrylic temples for my main pieces. Price wasn’t bad. Last for ever. Tracing that as opposed to paper temples makes more sense to me for things I do a lot of. Cutting paper temples every two or three wallets seems like more work. In all honesty, I trace the acrylic with my blade and I get accurate prices. Easier to line up the straight edge. Just my two cents.
wait till you get to bigger pieces and end up with a collection of dinner plates and cereal bowls you're constantly trying to figure out where to store without breaking 😂
If you make the "bump jigs" and promo them in your videos. You will be able to sell them from your online store. More money for you. That is the benefit of bump jigs.
As someone who's been in the industry since pre-internet it's good to see someone else not throwing money at the latest fad! So over the idea that old school = unskilled, but maybe that comes with anything that blows up in popularity the way leatherwork has.
I'm just starting leatherwork, for me being new, I will stay with the steel cork backed ruler and square to learn the basics of the craft. I need nothing fancy or expensive at this point. For me, I don't see a need for the bump jiggs. I enjoy your videos and I have just completed the assembly of one of you bi-fold wallets. It's rough looking but it is my first go at it and I know what I need to improve on. Loving this craft. Thank you for your videos and explanations in each.
I started using them after I was having trouble getting super straight cuts. I'm blind in one eye and have the depth perception of a T-Rex, so they were helping me in that regard. Lately I've started to just really focus and work at it and while I don't use them as much as I did, I still do use them some and they help me. Though some from amazon are not perfectly straight on each side (I sure as hell wont pay $100 for em)....also that Squale is 👌👌👌
That makes total sense :) I honestly can't imagine working with no depth perception, I'd have lost all my fingers by now haha - I think that's a strong case for lots of jigs and such. It's also one of the reasons leathercraft is so rad, techniques can be easily modified to make it accessible to so many different abilities. and thanks! That was my big birthday gift to myself this year haha! Saved up for a whole year, totally worth it
As a hobbyist who doesn't have the time to develop skills the way a pro has, the bump jig approach is really helpful. The idea of using a positive stop for the ruler eliminates any possibility for not putting the ruler exactly on the scribe or grid line. It really helps with repeatability. Scribing to a pattern also messes up the pattern edges. When you've gotten used to the order of operations it's a lot quicker than showed in this film. You're also trying to cut against that thick bump square which I've never seen anyone do. So for an amateur it really helps and reduces the risk of screwing up.
Coming from a woodworking background I do like nice straight and square reference edges to work from, but I just my woodworking squares to do that when breaking down a shoulder or something. The cutting mat method for squaring up stock has always worked great for me once I have manageable sized pieces to work with. The bump jig method I've seen on other channels just looks a bit fiddly and complicated to me. I've noticed there are a lot of crossover skills/methods from woodworking to leather craft but as Eric points out, leather is not wood, it'll bend and stretch in use (and during construction) so you gotta work to different tolerances and respect the material properties your working with.
I like your video on the bump method. As a draftsman, it's the basic principal used in drafting with limited and basic tools. ie Tsquare and right angle squares either 45 degree or 30/60 degree square. Awesome training video. Thanks
Ruler or carpenter squares are both accurate. Each person will develope their own style that suits their needs. Marketing is a powerfull tool and can convince people to do the unexpected. Just remember develope your own style and do not rush.
Being new to leather crafting i find the bump jigs and the 2 rulers valuable as it has helped me tremendously with cutting straight edges and square corners. Yes I'm aware that it might be psychological but it gives me confidence enough to do projects. Right now all I know is that I'm gaining the experience to be more proficient with the tools for cutting and i can see myself advancing enough not to need them or not use them as much as I am right now. The only real complaint other than the cost is bump jigs are probably aluminum and light so heavier metal would have been better option.
I’ve been a carpenter for 20 years and use squares and jigs every day. I started leathercraft last year and it never occurred to me to use one there. I am proficient with a $6 cork backed rule and occasionally without it! I can see the benefit for lining up stamps etc but even that seems overkill if you’re using a press. The problem I have here is the bUmpJIg misogynistic elitist cult that is spawning from from the ML group. It’s truly pathetic. You just don’t need tools at this price.
I was trying to learn to do the bump jig method by Mascon leather videos and he makes it look so cool! I got a little frustrated and stopped trying. I may come back to it later but I'm learning so much from you and others. To each his own. I take what I can use.
Definitely accurate. WAYYY overcomplicates things, and produces an excess of scrap. The bump jig method is covering up your scribe lines almost 100% of the time and creates failure. They speak of "squareness" as if that actually matters in leatherwork that much. On most card pockets, 3 of the 4 sides are being trimmed after gluing anyways. We are talking about fractions of a mm of square and then gluing it all, and having everything line up absolutely perfectly? You could make all the jigs in the world and it would never happen. If you watch any professional leatherworker (just like any craft, woodworking, etc.) You glue with excess and trim to size after everything is already together.....
True. But for some of us...if you've come from a machinist background or even woodworking....regardless of whether it gets thrown out the window in the next step, excessively precise measuring is sometimes not a choice, but an undeniable obsession...an unhealthy and unbreakable habit... Bear with us...we know not what we do...and there's no assistance out there. No12 step program. No support groups. Nothing... Hi, I'm Brad and I obsessively measure to ridiculous and unusable extremes. It's been one day since I used a precision micrometer on an earthen based material that can and will expand or contract more than 10x the resolution of the measuring instrument I used ... I haven't touched a caliper today...or even a ruler. But it's one day at a time and I plan to estimate a measurement tomorrow. I know I've got people rooting for me and I think I can do it. A friend of mine used to only speak in thousandths just a year ago...and yesterday he freehanded a piece of material for a project he was working on...if he can do it, I know I can to.
Yeah except he is implying this while also trying to sell cutting acrylic stencils for buckleguy..? Even though he has talked many times about only using metal rulers for cutting 🤷🏻♂️
@@dickerson89 to be fair he showed the buckle guy acrylic templates to scribe a line with an awl and then cut without the template. The stencils are for putting a line on the leather not cutting against. He was very clear in the video that you don’t want to cut against something that is softer than your knife🤷♂️
100000% made sure to say you should NEVER cut against acrylics. Ever ever ever. We showed the entire process of cutting out a pattern with a simple steel ruler, then showed that if you do want to look into some jigs there are affordable options out there that are designed specifically for lethercraft :)
I saw a video about some be all end all leather cutting jig/ruler thing. It’s pretty cool and combines several tools into one. It was like ~$300. I fiddle with leather and make stuff for myself. I ain’t spending ~$300 for something I’m not using all the time.
I definitely struggle tracing patterns out. My patterns slip too much on the leather. I’m also very new to the craft. I find the bump method to be easier than tracing as I only have to be concerned about one edge or line at a time. I’m also not great at being accurate with my templates. The bump method is good for making templates too.
As Someone who no longer has good depth perception, which makes lining up to a grid very difficult, I can see the benefit of lining up patterns using angles and straight edges. For this reason alone, I find it convenient. Now, just like anything, you get faster at doing the other method once you have an idea of what works well as a work flow. No different from practicing on the grid. One other benefit is not having to scratch the pattern onto the leather, like EPI, which is when I typically just tape a pattern to the leather and cut the pattern out through the tape. In the end, it’s preference. Even regarding your one benefit for positioning a stamp, creating the leather jig or 3dprinted jig, is still better.
I am just getting started in leather work, and I'm 70. I have never had depth perception, especially now. I can see the bump jigs would be very beneficial to me as far as ling up edges.
Another great vid 👌 I don't use jigs or any other type of aid , it's just the way I like to work. I'm new and want to learn the craft and what I am capable of before moving to quicker methods. I love that it takes me time to create ♥️👍 thanks again
After using the bump jigs I have, the two red ones you are showing. Plus a few other things I use. I have found they are beneficial when making your own patterns.
I love bump jigs! They do have a learning curve, don’t dog something just because you couldn’t maser it in 15 minutes. Every tool and technique has its place.
Helpful for glueing alignment, also helpful for alignment or assistance holding a template in place. In the rare case squaring a piece of leather. For all my small items, I'll print a template with a 3D printer, the absolutely fastest method, no jigs, no scribing, just cut along the template, works better than a ruler, get all the nice curves too.
I reckon whatever is one comfortable with. I do both bump jig method as well as patter tracing with owl, even cellotaping the paper patter to leather and cutting on the printed lines....
I use them form time to time. Specifically when I'm batching out the same cut over and over. I don't have to trace the pattern out multiple times. Cut a 90° angle on one corner. Cut the section to height and cut my 10 same sized pieces but placing the pattern, bump the jig make the cut. I'm not full time. And still relatively new the to craft. When I made my patterns, I did not make them with any software, and did not make for trim allowances. And so, bump jigs made sense... A miniscule amount of time increase upfront allowed me to save time on the back end when sanding the edges to get nice finishes. I don't use jigs all the time. But I've definitely found the more I use them the more proficient I am with them and expedient I am. I still trace patterns with an awl and cut them like you do. And until recently did not account for trim allowances. I'm now remaking my patterns with trim allowances. Dunno if I'll use bump jigs in the future or not.... But I didn't spend the money on the boutique jigs. I got the same squares as you and also bought a piece of 1.5x0.5x10 inch aluminum bar stock off Amazon. Total 50 bucks invested...
I’ve been leather working for years. I have had a pair of positioning squares since the beginning. One day I saw (Redacted)’s TH-cam channel using his “new” invention of positioning squares, now called “numb jigs”, but made from steel and brass. I laughed so hard at how much he started selling them for but I immediately knew, some people are gullible enough to buy over priced knockoffs of anything. The positioning squares have their uses. Their hight does make it easier to position a template to a previously cut edge. This helps me reduce waste and time by not having to cut one edge again. They also help me line up the edges of overlaid layers to reduce the amount of sanding required. However, as you demonstrated, these tools are not as ideal as other ways that you may be accustomed with already. If a person is foolish enough to buy the overpriced steel or brass 90 degree squares to use them as weights, they will undoubtedly argue in favor of their expensive purchase no matter what. In fact, the cheap aluminum ones made for woodworking are just as effective as the overpriced ones. P.S. - if you need project weights, buy calibration weights for digital scales. Personally, I have a pair of 2kg and a pair of 1kg. Their only $20 each and make it easier to deal with both small and large patterns when cutting. They also are great to hold down your long rulers when cutting a straight edge on a new hide.
I have a few pieces of stainless bar stock 1'' x 1/2' x 6'' 'that i use as "bump jigs", but i typically use it to align my square on a long straight edge, or to align multiple layers. I don't know if its right or wrong, or the best method, but its just what works for me. I can see a machinist engineer solid square (or what mascon calls a bump jig) being useful, but not completely unless its stainless (so you can cut against it). To each their own, if you want to spend a bunch of money on a fancy setup, or sell them, it's America and capitalism is great, just don't go around thinking you are the guy who invented a square. You don't see Alex trademarking rocks.... yet😁
The bump jig method creates consistency, speed and accuracy. You can cut out four pockets and the body of a vertical wallet in less then 4 minutes in a production setting. You just have to develop a flow. Honestly, I switched to bump jigs and am producing more products than just individually cutting them out one at a time. The trick is to get your 90 degree straight edge on your leather, bump up the pocket pattern to the corner, bump up the second jig to the edge, bump up the ruler to the second jig, remove the second jig, and make a straight cut. You will notice that the width of the strip of leather is the exact same width as the pockets. After that, you just make 4 cuts and you now have 4 pockets, all the exact same size. Once you get the method down, it's a lot easier and less complicated
Well, Love your videos and I learned a lot from them, thank you for sharing!! I think that the fast way of doing something is by having incorporated to your workflow, one thing is to be skillful with something, like you are by using the grid from your mat to cut something. For me, a person with VERY sharky hands, I need to have something to assist my cut, just to make sure I am not ruining a piece. I saw MANY videos about using bumb jigs, to help with cuts, and I always though it was a lot of steps to do something... I like the idea of bump jigs to set up something, to use as a reference point for alignment and cuts, but since I don't own anything that can be use as that, I cant confirm how useful really is... In my humble opinion I think that if I want speed, cookie cutters are the fastest and most repeatable way of doing that, right after would be using a laser cutter... it is always important to remember that tools are here to help us, not to make use dependent of them to do something, high level skills will always matter more than high end tools!!
Haha! Yeah. I bought those same jigs months ago. I wasn’t convinced. Mascon leather is incredibly proficient at it, and I don’t like the scratch awl method either. It requires me to have a pattern cut out and I don’t want to cut out a pattern I’ll use once. I just use squares and rulers to sketch in the unfinished side of the leather. Same way I’d sketch on to a piece of plywood. Also his jigs are sky high. I haven’t found a heavy steel ruler I like, but I can probably buy a piece of flat iron and etch it myself.
When I create a design that I want to duplicate I will measure it out and create the pattern pieces on a thicker cards stock. I bought a set of bump jigs and it did take a few goes to get used to the work flow. I think for me it was just a groove I could get into and it for whatever reason made me feel more confident that I was reproducing the design consistently. Also it when I used to trace with my scratch all I would eventually wear out the edge of the pattern and have to make new ones. That and using them to line up my stamps was the main reason I switched to using bump jigs.
Bump jigs are amazing for 2 reasons in my shop. 1. Batching out items. I had to make 3 of the same wallet which have 6 pockets each. Cutting a long enough strip at the pocket height I can use a bump jig like a stop on a table saw or miter saw fence. Bump the large piece of leather against the jig, pattern piece on top against the jig, ruler against the pattern, slide pattern out of the way, cut perfect width piece, repeat. It's so much faster because I have become proficient at it. If you are a production shop bump jigs can save a lot of time. 2. My shop is in a studio apartment in Manhattan. My work table is only 24" x 24". Longer cuts have to done in batches. Cut as much as I can, slide more leather onto the table, lift the waste side, bump against my cut line, and place my ruler perfectly in line with where I left off, continue the cut. I'm not as good as Terrick at Chartermade and can't yet get a straight cut freehand. I just use a piece of 3/4" steel square stock I found on the sidewalk next to a construction site. It's flat when reference against my ruler so I'm fine with it. You don't need to buy pretty versions.
Jigs in general are mainly used to do multiples items consistently. It works best without having to redraw the same pattern over and over. I use it mainly for assembly line cuts just for efficiency.
When I have to cut a really long straight edge, I use bump jigs. For example, a new side with natural edges and I want to cut a strap off the backstrap I need a straight edge first so I can use my strap cutter. I don't have a 6 foot straight edge. So I put my hide down, put my 48" straight edge down. Put my bump jigs/weights on the back side/working side of the leather cut as far as I can, then slide the straight edge along my cut with my jigs guiding my straight edge so it stays exactly on my partial cut line. Then with my straight edge repositioned, I can move the jig since it's sandwiched between the straight edge and my weights, the move the weights one at a time. It's important to use multiple heavy weights so they can be moved individually in a leapfrog fashion.
That's fun, I'm working on a video for my (small) chanel about this method, and I got the exact same red "bump jigs". Anyway, I'm totally OK with what you say, I tried to work with this method but I came back to the classic. But I think if you stick to this method and train a lot with, it's really quick and can be quicker than the usual method. The big cons of this for me is what you mentionned, If you move a little bit, you got to start and put everything back together a second time. In the pros section, I think you can get rid of the little offset of the line traced when using a pattern. When you trace it with an awl, the line is outside the perimeter of the shape, and we're used to put our ruler in the center of the traced line to cut it. But I'm not convinced the little 0,1mm offset really needs to be removed. If I really need a spectacular precision, I go with some card punch tools and corner punch etc. but it's not faster. And thanks for the law reminder, I didn't know that, can be useful ;)
You’re very good at cutting straight lines freehand. Some people (including me up til about five years ago) would use squares and straight edges to draw a line with a pencil, pen or awl. Then put a straight edge over that line to make the cut. Redundancy of critical tasks is comforting to newcomers.
Fan of both you and Artie. I think it boils down to how the individual crafter has gotten used to doing things. Specifically for him, from things he has said in videos I think he most likely was taught the woodworkers' way early on and has transferred it over. Not a fan of using them for pattern cutting, but do like them for lining things up.
I have 3 'leather mentors', The Corter Guy, The Mascon Guy and The Weaver Guy. The bulk of what I know you guys taught me. For me, what you practice you will get proficient in. I use methods of all 3 in combination. And it works, without have to buy extra kit. It was just kit that was already at hand. Thanks for making leather work a part of our lives.
Each to his own. Depending on what I'm cutting out, I do sometimes find my own modified version of the bump jig method to work best and on others I use methods more similar to yours. With some leathers I really don't like marking on the leather if I don't absolutely have to. Marking just ends up being an extra added and sometimes messy and unnecessary step. I use whichever method comes more natural to me in many cases. I don't have a usable grid on my bench surface at this time. So the alternative is to measure everything and use traditional layout methods that I learned all the way back in woodshop. Idk. I think there's time and place for both methods. I'm not as organized and always have everything just perfect and at my fingertips to make cutouts like you do. And I find the bump jig method as Mascon does it to be a bit cumbersome and redundant sometimes. So I do it differently in some cases. His bump jogs he sells are not aluminum, btw .. so cutting into them isn't an issue. He does have some centering rulers and such that are pretty nice. ...I like the one I got from hobby lobby just fine but wish it was steel rather than acrylic. But hey whatever. The good thing is that everybody gets to make their stuff however they want to and nobody has any say as to how they go about it. Don't get mad at Mascon for being a capitalist tho... Nobody has to buy them if they don't want to...and they can go make their own like I did for a tiny fraction of the cost.
“Bump Jig Wars: The Movie” Stars Jon Berenthal as The Good Knight Sir Eric of Corter, and Johnny Depp as the tattooed, whiskey drinking Evil King Artie, ruler of the Masconian Empire. Followers from both sides fight each other with rubber mallets and 6 inch mannequins. Sir Eric sees the opposing forces coming and starts the war by shouting ‘Hey Everybody’…. Still working out the rest of the plot…😉 Seriously though Eric, your videos are great and I’ve learned a lot from watching all of them, you have an easy-going way about you when explaining things that is very helpful, thank you. 👍
I"m slow and it took me less then 30 seconds using the bump method to cut out a rectangle as you just did. I'm sure that Mascon Leather would have done in in 15 sec or less. Grant it, it does take a little getting used to but, once you have done it a few times it's actually, very simple, fast and efficient.
Regarding the wood/leather diskussion. The bookbinder TH-camr DAS introduced me to a easy cheap method to sqaring up paper using a woodbar and rulers. Now leather is not paper but to get that first 90 degree angle and to make pattern of cardstock its awsome.
I'm with you on bump jigs. If you watch the same guy with bump jigs, I know what you are talking about. He does a good job and bump jigs are his thing and that is okay. I enjoy his videos too as I do yours. That is why I subscribe to your channel.
I have nerve damage in my hands, the bump jigs are really useful. But I now have a 10W laser 1/10 the time including the holes! It now takes me longer to sew then to cut and punch holes!
For a beginner like myself, and having some woodworking background, I find bump jigs give me a sense of security, as my hand is not steady yet, and the leathers I practice on are arbitrary and cheap, sometimes not even scratchable. I hope to develop the right habits with time and start doing more things freehand. I don't have a proper grid mat yet either.
I saw the same videos. The one I watched last night was basically a commercial to sell a $170 ruler and a $100+ corner jig. I was interested right up until I saw the price.
I figured that the bump jig would be a good intermediate between cut/trace and a clicker press. If I did want to go into production, I'd want as much consistency between cuts as possible and clicker presses are really expensive where I am.
I use a piece of brass bar as my bump jig. It works well in my small space, which my desktop, I’ve got used to this method and I’m able to make a four pocket wallet in a about 4 hours. It works for me but so does using a scratch awl. Im happy to learn fast methods if I’m making money from my products as time is money.
Good video! Bump jigs habe their place. I use them for things I have to repeat a few times. Task determines tool use, not the other way round. Also: I have left a piece of my thumb on my workbench a few weeks ago. Using a steel ruler alone does not free oneself from paying attention, that's all I'm saying.
Everyone works differently and can recommend an array of things that they do. it does not mean there wrong they just have there own way of doing things. I know at least 8 amazing craftsman who use bump jigs and 5 are not influencers on youtube.
I saw a video by another crafter two maybe three months ago and he was using the bump jigs. I learned more in YOUR video on how to use them than I did in the other guys - and he exclusively uses the bump jigs. Not that I'm fishing for sympathy, but I have limited use of one of my hands and just using a ruler with my gridded mat is tough enough - I don't need the chaos of the bump jigs.
If I was a well coordinated octopus the bump jig method might work efficiently, but unfortunately I'm a human with only two hands! That being said, I always found bump jigs to require to many tools and be very fumbly! I do use a bump jig when I mark corners to get perfect alignment with a radius jig and I do have custom made acrylic right angle jigs in different widths for quickly and accurately placing my makers mark. Thats about it for jigs though, the rest is done with a pattern, scratch awl, and a knife to make the process as efficient as possible. Great subject to bring up CL, I definitely think that it needed to be addressed! Thanks
My biggest use of a bump jig is to line my square up against the edge of the leather. I have an aluminum bar I press against the edge of the leather, then I press my square against that. It is both faster and more precise for me. I don't have a 90 degree bump jig, but I want to get a couple.
I use plastic alignment squares to align patterns, make sure my ruler is square on a piece, etc. I never quite got the "bump jig switcheroo" method as a real advantage.
I feel that the advantage of the bump jig version vs tracing comes in with cutting multiple pieces. You can use less cuts to get the pieces cut out vs trace and cut, let me detail how Cut 1 - Base line for all pieces Cut 2 - 90deg cut which becomes the right side for the first piece Cut 3 - top cut for all pieces Cut 4 - completes the first piece and is the right side for piece 2 Cut 5 - completes piece 2 and is the right side for piece 3 Cut 6 - completes piece 3 and is the right side for piece 4 Cut 7 - completes piece 4 So for 7 cuts you get to cut all 4 pieces to size, if you trace all 4 pieces then you need 4 cuts per piece and have to do 16 cuts, over 50% less cuts required.
The Bump Jig method for me makes sense and it works easily everyone. It’s clean and very efficient once practiced. But…. Paying hundreds of dollars for the bump jigs on some sites is crazy. And the fancy ruler deal is like $100+ is silly.
I use a simple Machinist Square to help me line up my leather and regular square for straight cuts. By the way, did you know Weaver isn't doing the "corter" free shipping code any more?
I used straight edged and 90° "jigs" in wood work for years. Applying them to leatherwork was a no brainer for me. I found mascon uses them (and makes them) and I was a bit deflated as I thought it was my brilliant idea lol. It is by far the easiest and quickest way I've found to pump out work without using a clicker. They also provide safety as they are thick and stop blades from jumping. One reason why they are used in wood and metal work. Other rules used in leather and fabric are thin and dont provide much support or a barrier to the blade. I have mates that trace and cut with straight edges etc and others that cut with no guide. But the jigs eliminate most chances at making mistakes. I don't see any value in the product the m&zb guys sell. It's crazy over priced but the idea is rock solid. I also know a guy that sells $40 bottle openers too. Still a rock solid idea but also a highly priced version of a simple existing tool. 🤙
Love the videos! I have about one year experience using bump jigs and wanted to share. I love the idea of bump jigs since I'm new to leatherworking and enjoy trying patterns I like off of Etsy. I think there's a range of quality when it comes to bump jigs and I don't think it was represented in the video. I don't think aluminum square framing jigs are the best examples of bump jigs - I've bought cheap brass bars cut to size where I stuck cork tape to the bottoms to help it from sliding and they work wonders. It helps a lot to have different heights (lower bars are great for cutting, taller bars for setting up patterns and stamping) and they have a nice weight since they're brass (so you can use them as pattern weights also!)
I wasn't offended by the price of the bump jigs or specialized rulers. I understand that machining small quantities of anything in the US is expensive. I was, however, shocked by the price of the regular ol' leather goods on their site. 😅 Wow. More power to 'em if they're making sales, but I figured they were doing fine and didn't need my money. Made my own thicc squares on the Glowforge with acrylic. If they wear out, I'll make more. 🤷🏾♀️
I use both methods. I'm far more accurate and much faster using the bump jig method when I already have a pattern I'm following. I use a piece of tool steel I had for my flat edge then used a cork backed ruler to cut against. I have those aluminum angles too and almost never use them. For me, tracing patterns is super clunky and slow. But that's probably because I've done a lot more bump jigging than tracing and cutting. I don't see any reason to down play either method - I'd think both methods are good and just depends on what an individual is most proficient at. It'd only take me a minute or so to cut out a pocket, sure as heck wouldn't take 4 minutes!
It’s gonna be faster with you using scratch awl since that’s what you’re used to. I use bump jiggs and can get it done just as fast. All comes down to what you prefer
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I’ve been an IP paralegal for 35 years. I love when my work and my hobby collide! Keep doing all the best IP protection practices.
I've been in the leather hobby for years and I can understand both sides of this. "Bump jigs" are just a different way of doing something to achieve the same results. Artie at Mascon leather uses this method because it makes sense to him and he's very proficient at it. I'm not a huge proponent of bump jigs, but I do see some value in them when it comes to alignment of multiple pieces. Is it smart or lazy? It's all in the eye of the beholder. Ultimately, it all gets you to the same destination. The process is as much a style as is the finished product.
Good luck trying to afford one of Mascon's bump jigs or metal curve templates. Way overpriced for what they are, I think his son makes them all. Quality items for sure, but I see this money better spent on buying leather or pricking irons. Just my two cents.
@@johnnyc.5979 They are nice tools, but the cost to value ratio isn't enough to compel me to buy. Artie is allowed to set the prices at whatever he wants. It's up to the consumer to determine the value in them. Many may not, but some will. Nevertheless, I wish Artie success.
@@johnnyc.5979 Make more money.
@@ManCity-5Peat-Loading just because something is overpriced doesnt mean you should spend more money than it's intrinsically worth, irrespective of how much money one makes.
Do you buy things that are clearly overpriced indifferent to what their value actually is?
If so, my advice for you friend is that you may just want to reconsider your spending habits.
@@Handles-R-Lame you are triggered.
I was very skeptical the first time I saw Artie use bump jigs and I had no idea what was going on. So I basically did what you did, I tried it out and eventually started actually practicing. Before long I noticed I can cut wallets out quicker using the bump jigs. Once I cut one pocket piece with the bump jig I'm already 3/4 of the way to cutting out that same pocket again. Also my cardboard patterns were getting warped on the edges by dragging the awl across it which doesn't happen with the bump jigs.
Really you have to understand which jigs you're going to use for which cut ahead of time and get it placed on the proper side of your body. I use this technique exclusively and it's a huge time saver, it has noticeably cut down on production time.
I have done both bump and trace. It comes down to what you are comfortable with and how you want your craft to grow. I prefer the bumps on most projects but don’t hold myself to one method.
Finally someone covered "Bump Jig" .you are right it's much faster to cut from template layout. also if you see the price of all the items that that company sells its CRAZY!!! hay go and price New leather Square , wow I'll stick with my walmart Square
Right, wasn't totally intrested in the jigs but was like f it let's see what they have, bruh I laughed so hard wen I saw the prices, shrugged and said out loud guess you aint gotta sell many to make money at a price like that
Mascon has videos a year old on bump jigs.
This isn't the first video that you've touted skill over tools. Especially when it comes to using rulers and things as opposed to practicing a steady hand, and I want to say it was a good thing to hear! I've started really trying to cut more accurately freehand and it's been challenging, but also freeing. To know that not only is it possible to cut well without assistance, but also a skill worth developing, was super helpful. It's easy to buy into the hype that some people who don't know any better raise about methods and tools, but knowing you've been around for so long in the leathercraft business makes your advice so much more realistic and reliable to me. Thanks to both of you for such great content!
Thanks! From experience, skill is just the most valuable thing you can invest in when you're getting started - muscle memory and technique will help you avoid injury and you'll avoid the limitations of being bound to a specific tool down the road when you want to dive into making bigger and more complicated things. It's not particularly good for "monetizing" our videos because like...just buy a ruler and you're good to go. But imo it's the only way I'd ever teach anyone because it's the way you'll be the most free to make whatever you can imagine in the craft :)
@@Corter I've been consuming content from Corter and ..the other folks for a long time now, and for me, it basically comes down to this: Is INSERT MONO TOOL HERE useful? If you get good with it, yes. Can you just get good with your fundamentals instead? Also yes.
I broke my collarbone two weeks ago and only discovered your videos 4 days ago, you have inspired me to work with leather and be positive about my recovery! Keep up the great work!
It takes me about 25 sec to cut out my pattern pieces using the bump jig method and I’m 10x more accurate that way too. Just my preferred method. To each his own
"bump jig" is just a glorified ruler. If you need to cut out a pattern, you're going to be scratching your pattern on anyways.... so just use a ruler? It just over complicates things
@@Stevieboy7you assume folks are tracing it on leather. The method doesn’t involve scratching it out in leather.
The bump really works well in lining up to get straight lines, making sure the placement of the logo is correct. I like it!
I'm a precision hound who has an unhealthy obsession with over-complicating things 😂 I was woodworking prior to leather working so I grew an obsession with getting things square, and bump jigs became something of a godsend for me. I promptly ordered these carpentry squares when I first saw them. They are definitely unnecessary but they bring me comfort when I align and glue things up for consistency. The ironic thing is, once everything it obsessive-compulsively aligned, I scribe a line and trim with a round knife to give it a final "impertectly hand-crafted" look.
Eric, thank you so much for making this video. I follow the leather crafter who uses (and sells) bump jigs too. He does beautiful work. Like you, I was curious about the bump-jig method, and like you I went onto Amazon and bought those exact same red angles that you have.
I tried the bump-jig method, but my brain and my hands kept getting crossed up. I think that the technique might be worth practicing IF (notice the big IF here) you want to make many, many copies of the exact same pattern at the same time.
In his shop, he does a lot of production work, and it looks like he duplicates his products many times over in a short period of time. I can see where getting good with bump jigs might speed the process up. Some people use clicker jigs to go faster, he uses bump jigs. I'm slow and low production, so I'll just keep using a knife and a ruler.
I'm glad it wasn't just me being slow on the uptake. You came to the same conclusion I did. Thanks for doing this video, you probably made a bunch of us feel better.
I think another benefit of using the bump jig is that the edge of your templates do not get worn out after a while.
when I use paper templates I only use them about twice. I still think paper templates go WAY faster. that is a good point though.
True! I'd suggest looking to pattern plastic, you can get hundreds of uses out of a pattern and still cut the material with an exacto blade. Very useful :)
I get the thin dollar tree cutting mats, comes in a 2 pack, and make my pattern on that. I’ve used the same pattern over 30 times and it’s still perfectly fine.
@@Corteryou say build a better pattern. Others say use tools that eliminate the problem entirely. It’s preference. How about don’t dog someone else’s technique. I use both methods depending on what I’m doing. It all has value.
@@crackerjack010101He’s giving his opinion, nothing wrong with that!
Mascon Leather is a master at using "bump jigs". He uses it a lot for uniform size without measuring. As a woodworker to any time you can avoid using a ruler to make multiple pieces the same size your ahead
Yea I fully understand streamlining workflow - I guess the thing I don't understand is that in woodwork you'd use a stop block. done. With the bump jig method you're taking the time to learn a method juggling 2 rulers and 3 jigs to make one cut, when you can just trace out the pattern and cut it with a single ruler. or you can use the grid on your mat without a pattern and make cuts in one physical movement instead of 4 -- objectively faster any way you look at it than the bump jig thing.
Mascon Leather is a loud mouth wannabe know-it-all who thinks he invented a method that’s been around for millennia. He wants to profit off his “invention” and will use litigation to protect his “intellectual property”.
@@Corter You might want to go back and review how the method is done. I do it with 1 bump jig and either a steel square or a ruler, depending on what I'm cutting. So, one jig and one ruler for 1 cut.
Watching every video I could, and trying it a few ways, it always takes at least 2 rulers and two jigs - the jig to bump the pattern/ material up against on the cut side, jig to butt up against the uncut side, ruler to replace the jig once you sweep away the pattern and other jig, then another ruler to cut against. That's how I watched it in the videos, so I tried to stay true to that in testing the method. But I'm sure yea, you could modify that method to become more efficient with less stuff for sure!
@@Corter Don't use the acrylic ruler. Put your bump jig down and butt the leather and pattern against it. Move the jig to the opposite edge of the pattern. Remove pattern and place ruler against bump jig. Remove bump jig and cut. One jig. One ruler.
Been leather crafting for a very long time. Make complicated breifcases builds. I really enjoy bump jigs. There is no wrong or right way of doing things, whatever works works. I have learned to not judge in this craft.
Best comment here - many complex software packages offer multiple ways to accomplish the same task. Allows everyone to find a way that works for them the best.
Lmao I love to see it. I knew it’d be a good video as soon as I saw the trademark papers
Bump jigs allow me to measure a pattern once and then never have to measure or trace again. From my personal experience it's faster and more accurate.
As a beginner, I often run into issues of a pattern slipping while I trace. Which leads to uneven edges and more work on the back end to fix small mistakes.
I've converted all my patterns to cereal boxes and use bump jigs to get perfect measurements every time.
As far as speed goes, the difference in your time is definitely time spent using a method. What took you 15 seconds to trace and cut a pattern would take me several minutes. If you used a bump jig method as long as youve used trace and cut, you would be close to equally as fast. Bump jigs cut my time down because I'm not constantly trying to line up a ruler on an imperfect trace. That's just my preference.
Can you explain to me why you'd have to measure a pattern again once it's made regardless of method? that's the thing that seems to be coming up a lot - "I can measure a pattern once and never again". That's like...kinda the point of patterns, you print them out and don't have to worry about measurements because you know they've been designed already.
Regarding the straight cuts and slipping, these are all things I'd worry about with a beginner learning with this method. Being able to trace a pattern and make a straight cut in leather is a core skill, I can see how this method would be a quick way to get better results fast but it's akin to dropping a prefab home on a dirt pad - you're not building your skill on a strong foundation, one day the rest of your skills will catch up and your inability to cut or trace will be a limiting factor in letting you advance further. That'd be my worry with a beginner learning this method.
@@Corter let me give more context on measuring once. What I mean by this is when you cut your pattern the first time, your cuts may not be perfect. The outline of a pattern you are cutting can deviate depending on how thick the black line is or if your ruler is slightly off. Then you're tracing an imperfect pattern to leather. When I transfer my patterns to cereal boxes I use the pattern as a guide. I'll measure the pattern and when I cut the cereal box, im 1000% sure every line is perfect to the exact measurement.
Then when using bump jigs I never have to worry about one side being 1/16 of an inch off etc.
As for cutting with a ruler and tracing a pattern, you're right. This is a basic skill everyone should properly learn. My issue is I am an imperfect perfectionist. Which requires me to spend significant amounts of time making sure my ruler is perfectly straight along a traced line. It creates room for error and unfortunately it's not something I can easy live with. Bump jigs resolve this issue for me.
Do you sand your edges after you glue and stitch? Traditional craft, and french style construction, would just have you overcut your pocket, glue it, then trim it. That's how I usually do most things both in the shop and on video, I guess I"m just now realizing people are trying to cut out pieces that are exactly matching so they can glue up a perfect seam and not do any trimming.
@@Corter I hardly use trim tolerances because it usually requires me to cut through 4+ layers. Just more room for error. I sand my edges, but the closer they are to being perfectly aligned the less sanding I have to do to get a good edge. I use bump jigs to glue all my pieces as well.
I use bump jigs. I like bump jigs. I own a bump jig or two. Some I’ve had made and one was purchased (Mascon Zeebee, love it!). They are smaller than a combination square. Takes up less room. Mostly use them for alignment at glue up or stamping logos. Using paper templates does not interest me other than prototypes. I found a local guy with a laser that has custom cut acrylic temples for my main pieces. Price wasn’t bad. Last for ever. Tracing that as opposed to paper temples makes more sense to me for things I do a lot of. Cutting paper temples every two or three wallets seems like more work. In all honesty, I trace the acrylic with my blade and I get accurate prices. Easier to line up the straight edge. Just my two cents.
In a world of standardized units of measurement, I use soup cans and pill bottles for my curves
wait till you get to bigger pieces and end up with a collection of dinner plates and cereal bowls you're constantly trying to figure out where to store without breaking 😂
@@Corter this is so true...
eta: that is what steel dinnerware is for lol
If you make the "bump jigs" and promo them in your videos. You will be able to sell them from your online store. More money for you. That is the benefit of bump jigs.
As someone who's been in the industry since pre-internet it's good to see someone else not throwing money at the latest fad! So over the idea that old school = unskilled, but maybe that comes with anything that blows up in popularity the way leatherwork has.
I'm just starting leatherwork, for me being new, I will stay with the steel cork backed ruler and square to learn the basics of the craft. I need nothing fancy or expensive at this point. For me, I don't see a need for the bump jiggs.
I enjoy your videos and I have just completed the assembly of one of you bi-fold wallets. It's rough looking but it is my first go at it and I know what I need to improve on. Loving this craft.
Thank you for your videos and explanations in each.
I started using them after I was having trouble getting super straight cuts. I'm blind in one eye and have the depth perception of a T-Rex, so they were helping me in that regard. Lately I've started to just really focus and work at it and while I don't use them as much as I did, I still do use them some and they help me. Though some from amazon are not perfectly straight on each side (I sure as hell wont pay $100 for em)....also that Squale is 👌👌👌
That makes total sense :) I honestly can't imagine working with no depth perception, I'd have lost all my fingers by now haha - I think that's a strong case for lots of jigs and such. It's also one of the reasons leathercraft is so rad, techniques can be easily modified to make it accessible to so many different abilities.
and thanks! That was my big birthday gift to myself this year haha! Saved up for a whole year, totally worth it
“Depth perception of a t-Rex” made me laugh. 🤘🏻
As a hobbyist who doesn't have the time to develop skills the way a pro has, the bump jig approach is really helpful. The idea of using a positive stop for the ruler eliminates any possibility for not putting the ruler exactly on the scribe or grid line. It really helps with repeatability. Scribing to a pattern also messes up the pattern edges. When you've gotten used to the order of operations it's a lot quicker than showed in this film. You're also trying to cut against that thick bump square which I've never seen anyone do. So for an amateur it really helps and reduces the risk of screwing up.
Coming from a woodworking background I do like nice straight and square reference edges to work from, but I just my woodworking squares to do that when breaking down a shoulder or something. The cutting mat method for squaring up stock has always worked great for me once I have manageable sized pieces to work with. The bump jig method I've seen on other channels just looks a bit fiddly and complicated to me.
I've noticed there are a lot of crossover skills/methods from woodworking to leather craft but as Eric points out, leather is not wood, it'll bend and stretch in use (and during construction) so you gotta work to different tolerances and respect the material properties your working with.
I like your video on the bump method. As a draftsman, it's the basic principal used in drafting with limited and basic tools. ie Tsquare and right angle squares either 45 degree or 30/60 degree square. Awesome training video. Thanks
Ruler or carpenter squares are both accurate. Each person will develope their own style that suits their needs. Marketing is a powerfull tool and can convince people to do the unexpected. Just remember develope your own style and do not rush.
Being new to leather crafting i find the bump jigs and the 2 rulers valuable as it has helped me tremendously with cutting straight edges and square corners. Yes I'm aware that it might be psychological but it gives me confidence enough to do projects. Right now all I know is that I'm gaining the experience to be more proficient with the tools for cutting and i can see myself advancing enough not to need them or not use them as much as I am right now. The only real complaint other than the cost is bump jigs are probably aluminum and light so heavier metal would have been better option.
Bump Jigs look like an amazing tool for everyone. Especially if you’re the one selling them.
I had the same thought about efficiency. Great video thanks
I’ve been a carpenter for 20 years and use squares and jigs every day. I started leathercraft last year and it never occurred to me to use one there. I am proficient with a $6 cork backed rule and occasionally without it! I can see the benefit for lining up stamps etc but even that seems overkill if you’re using a press.
The problem I have here is the bUmpJIg misogynistic elitist cult that is spawning from from the ML group. It’s truly pathetic. You just don’t need tools at this price.
Bump jigs are somehow associated with misogyny?!
@@mynameisben123 in the case of the fool trying to trade mark the term bump jig then yes.
I was trying to learn to do the bump jig method by Mascon leather videos and he makes it look so cool! I got a little frustrated and stopped trying. I may come back to it later but I'm learning so much from you and others. To each his own. I take what I can use.
Careful, don't say that name here. Eric will have a hissy fit.
@@mikeal025 ooooh, sorry, didn't know.
Definitely accurate. WAYYY overcomplicates things, and produces an excess of scrap. The bump jig method is covering up your scribe lines almost 100% of the time and creates failure.
They speak of "squareness" as if that actually matters in leatherwork that much. On most card pockets, 3 of the 4 sides are being trimmed after gluing anyways. We are talking about fractions of a mm of square and then gluing it all, and having everything line up absolutely perfectly? You could make all the jigs in the world and it would never happen. If you watch any professional leatherworker (just like any craft, woodworking, etc.) You glue with excess and trim to size after everything is already together.....
True. But for some of us...if you've come from a machinist background or even woodworking....regardless of whether it gets thrown out the window in the next step, excessively precise measuring is sometimes not a choice, but an undeniable obsession...an unhealthy and unbreakable habit... Bear with us...we know not what we do...and there's no assistance out there. No12 step program. No support groups. Nothing... Hi, I'm Brad and I obsessively measure to ridiculous and unusable extremes. It's been one day since I used a precision micrometer on an earthen based material that can and will expand or contract more than 10x the resolution of the measuring instrument I used ... I haven't touched a caliper today...or even a ruler. But it's one day at a time and I plan to estimate a measurement tomorrow. I know I've got people rooting for me and I think I can do it. A friend of mine used to only speak in thousandths just a year ago...and yesterday he freehanded a piece of material for a project he was working on...if he can do it, I know I can to.
Leathercraft 'influencers': "Buy our 'new' tool to make cutting leather super easy!"
Eric: "Just get better at cutting leather? 🤷🏻♂️"
😂😂
Yeah except he is implying this while also trying to sell cutting acrylic stencils for buckleguy..? Even though he has talked many times about only using metal rulers for cutting 🤷🏻♂️
@@dickerson89 to be fair he showed the buckle guy acrylic templates to scribe a line with an awl and then cut without the template. The stencils are for putting a line on the leather not cutting against. He was very clear in the video that you don’t want to cut against something that is softer than your knife🤷♂️
100000% made sure to say you should NEVER cut against acrylics. Ever ever ever. We showed the entire process of cutting out a pattern with a simple steel ruler, then showed that if you do want to look into some jigs there are affordable options out there that are designed specifically for lethercraft :)
I saw a video about some be all end all leather cutting jig/ruler thing. It’s pretty cool and combines several tools into one. It was like ~$300. I fiddle with leather and make stuff for myself. I ain’t spending ~$300 for something I’m not using all the time.
@@MrDizzle715 and imagine the skills you can build up from cutting 300 dollars of hides.
I definitely struggle tracing patterns out. My patterns slip too much on the leather. I’m also very new to the craft. I find the bump method to be easier than tracing as I only have to be concerned about one edge or line at a time.
I’m also not great at being accurate with my templates. The bump method is good for making templates too.
I use them less for cutting and more for gluing up square
Gotta love it when I see your notification pops up
Triangle set is already sold out. I should have bought it when I received the flyer. Thanks for sharing 👍🏾 😊
As Someone who no longer has good depth perception, which makes lining up to a grid very difficult, I can see the benefit of lining up patterns using angles and straight edges. For this reason alone, I find it convenient. Now, just like anything, you get faster at doing the other method once you have an idea of what works well as a work flow. No different from practicing on the grid. One other benefit is not having to scratch the pattern onto the leather, like EPI, which is when I typically just tape a pattern to the leather and cut the pattern out through the tape. In the end, it’s preference. Even regarding your one benefit for positioning a stamp, creating the leather jig or 3dprinted jig, is still better.
I am just getting started in leather work, and I'm 70. I have never had depth perception, especially now. I can see the bump jigs would be very beneficial to me as far as ling up edges.
Yes I saw those videos and wondered the same thing, a grid and a safe ruler is the route I go
Thanks for the video 😁
Another great vid 👌 I don't use jigs or any other type of aid , it's just the way I like to work. I'm new and want to learn the craft and what I am capable of before moving to quicker methods. I love that it takes me time to create ♥️👍 thanks again
After using the bump jigs I have, the two red ones you are showing. Plus a few other things I use.
I have found they are beneficial when making your own patterns.
I love bump jigs! They do have a learning curve, don’t dog something just because you couldn’t maser it in 15 minutes. Every tool and technique has its place.
Yay this is gonna be good!
love the opening ☕️🐸
Helpful for glueing alignment, also helpful for alignment or assistance holding a template in place. In the rare case squaring a piece of leather. For all my small items, I'll print a template with a 3D printer, the absolutely fastest method, no jigs, no scribing, just cut along the template, works better than a ruler, get all the nice curves too.
I reckon whatever is one comfortable with. I do both bump jig method as well as patter tracing with owl, even cellotaping the paper patter to leather and cutting on the printed lines....
I use them form time to time.
Specifically when I'm batching out the same cut over and over. I don't have to trace the pattern out multiple times. Cut a 90° angle on one corner. Cut the section to height and cut my 10 same sized pieces but placing the pattern, bump the jig make the cut.
I'm not full time. And still relatively new the to craft. When I made my patterns, I did not make them with any software, and did not make for trim allowances. And so, bump jigs made sense... A miniscule amount of time increase upfront allowed me to save time on the back end when sanding the edges to get nice finishes.
I don't use jigs all the time. But I've definitely found the more I use them the more proficient I am with them and expedient I am.
I still trace patterns with an awl and cut them like you do. And until recently did not account for trim allowances. I'm now remaking my patterns with trim allowances. Dunno if I'll use bump jigs in the future or not....
But I didn't spend the money on the boutique jigs. I got the same squares as you and also bought a piece of 1.5x0.5x10 inch aluminum bar stock off Amazon. Total 50 bucks invested...
I’ve been leather working for years. I have had a pair of positioning squares since the beginning. One day I saw (Redacted)’s TH-cam channel using his “new” invention of positioning squares, now called “numb jigs”, but made from steel and brass. I laughed so hard at how much he started selling them for but I immediately knew, some people are gullible enough to buy over priced knockoffs of anything.
The positioning squares have their uses. Their hight does make it easier to position a template to a previously cut edge. This helps me reduce waste and time by not having to cut one edge again. They also help me line up the edges of overlaid layers to reduce the amount of sanding required.
However, as you demonstrated, these tools are not as ideal as other ways that you may be accustomed with already. If a person is foolish enough to buy the overpriced steel or brass 90 degree squares to use them as weights, they will undoubtedly argue in favor of their expensive purchase no matter what. In fact, the cheap aluminum ones made for woodworking are just as effective as the overpriced ones.
P.S. - if you need project weights, buy calibration weights for digital scales. Personally, I have a pair of 2kg and a pair of 1kg. Their only $20 each and make it easier to deal with both small and large patterns when cutting. They also are great to hold down your long rulers when cutting a straight edge on a new hide.
I have a few pieces of stainless bar stock 1'' x 1/2' x 6'' 'that i use as "bump jigs", but i typically use it to align my square on a long straight edge, or to align multiple layers. I don't know if its right or wrong, or the best method, but its just what works for me. I can see a machinist engineer solid square (or what mascon calls a bump jig) being useful, but not completely unless its stainless (so you can cut against it). To each their own, if you want to spend a bunch of money on a fancy setup, or sell them, it's America and capitalism is great, just don't go around thinking you are the guy who invented a square. You don't see Alex trademarking rocks.... yet😁
The bump jig method creates consistency, speed and accuracy. You can cut out four pockets and the body of a vertical wallet in less then 4 minutes in a production setting. You just have to develop a flow. Honestly, I switched to bump jigs and am producing more products than just individually cutting them out one at a time. The trick is to get your 90 degree straight edge on your leather, bump up the pocket pattern to the corner, bump up the second jig to the edge, bump up the ruler to the second jig, remove the second jig, and make a straight cut. You will notice that the width of the strip of leather is the exact same width as the pockets. After that, you just make 4 cuts and you now have 4 pockets, all the exact same size. Once you get the method down, it's a lot easier and less complicated
Really ?
Well, Love your videos and I learned a lot from them, thank you for sharing!!
I think that the fast way of doing something is by having incorporated to your workflow, one thing is to be skillful with something, like you are by using the grid from your mat to cut something. For me, a person with VERY sharky hands, I need to have something to assist my cut, just to make sure I am not ruining a piece.
I saw MANY videos about using bumb jigs, to help with cuts, and I always though it was a lot of steps to do something... I like the idea of bump jigs to set up something, to use as a reference point for alignment and cuts, but since I don't own anything that can be use as that, I cant confirm how useful really is...
In my humble opinion I think that if I want speed, cookie cutters are the fastest and most repeatable way of doing that, right after would be using a laser cutter... it is always important to remember that tools are here to help us, not to make use dependent of them to do something, high level skills will always matter more than high end tools!!
Haha! Yeah. I bought those same jigs months ago. I wasn’t convinced. Mascon leather is incredibly proficient at it, and I don’t like the scratch awl method either. It requires me to have a pattern cut out and I don’t want to cut out a pattern I’ll use once. I just use squares and rulers to sketch in the unfinished side of the leather. Same way I’d sketch on to a piece of plywood.
Also his jigs are sky high. I haven’t found a heavy steel ruler I like, but I can probably buy a piece of flat iron and etch it myself.
When I create a design that I want to duplicate I will measure it out and create the pattern pieces on a thicker cards stock. I bought a set of bump jigs and it did take a few goes to get used to the work flow. I think for me it was just a groove I could get into and it for whatever reason made me feel more confident that I was reproducing the design consistently. Also it when I used to trace with my scratch all I would eventually wear out the edge of the pattern and have to make new ones. That and using them to line up my stamps was the main reason I switched to using bump jigs.
One thing I use my jigs for. The ones you have for your demo. Is to line up parts for glue. Such as gluing the wallet pockets to the back piece.
Bump jigs are amazing for 2 reasons in my shop.
1. Batching out items. I had to make 3 of the same wallet which have 6 pockets each. Cutting a long enough strip at the pocket height I can use a bump jig like a stop on a table saw or miter saw fence. Bump the large piece of leather against the jig, pattern piece on top against the jig, ruler against the pattern, slide pattern out of the way, cut perfect width piece, repeat. It's so much faster because I have become proficient at it. If you are a production shop bump jigs can save a lot of time.
2. My shop is in a studio apartment in Manhattan. My work table is only 24" x 24". Longer cuts have to done in batches. Cut as much as I can, slide more leather onto the table, lift the waste side, bump against my cut line, and place my ruler perfectly in line with where I left off, continue the cut. I'm not as good as Terrick at Chartermade and can't yet get a straight cut freehand.
I just use a piece of 3/4" steel square stock I found on the sidewalk next to a construction site. It's flat when reference against my ruler so I'm fine with it. You don't need to buy pretty versions.
I also use square metal stock in different sizes and cut to about 8-12” in length for similar purposes
Jigs in general are mainly used to do multiples items consistently. It works best without having to redraw the same pattern over and over. I use it mainly for assembly line cuts just for efficiency.
When I have to cut a really long straight edge, I use bump jigs. For example, a new side with natural edges and I want to cut a strap off the backstrap I need a straight edge first so I can use my strap cutter. I don't have a 6 foot straight edge. So I put my hide down, put my 48" straight edge down. Put my bump jigs/weights on the back side/working side of the leather cut as far as I can, then slide the straight edge along my cut with my jigs guiding my straight edge so it stays exactly on my partial cut line. Then with my straight edge repositioned, I can move the jig since it's sandwiched between the straight edge and my weights, the move the weights one at a time. It's important to use multiple heavy weights so they can be moved individually in a leapfrog fashion.
That's fun, I'm working on a video for my (small) chanel about this method, and I got the exact same red "bump jigs". Anyway, I'm totally OK with what you say, I tried to work with this method but I came back to the classic. But I think if you stick to this method and train a lot with, it's really quick and can be quicker than the usual method. The big cons of this for me is what you mentionned, If you move a little bit, you got to start and put everything back together a second time.
In the pros section, I think you can get rid of the little offset of the line traced when using a pattern. When you trace it with an awl, the line is outside the perimeter of the shape, and we're used to put our ruler in the center of the traced line to cut it. But I'm not convinced the little 0,1mm offset really needs to be removed.
If I really need a spectacular precision, I go with some card punch tools and corner punch etc. but it's not faster.
And thanks for the law reminder, I didn't know that, can be useful ;)
You’re very good at cutting straight lines freehand. Some people (including me up til about five years ago) would use squares and straight edges to draw a line with a pencil, pen or awl. Then put a straight edge over that line to make the cut.
Redundancy of critical tasks is comforting to newcomers.
Fan of both you and Artie. I think it boils down to how the individual crafter has gotten used to doing things. Specifically for him, from things he has said in videos I think he most likely was taught the woodworkers' way early on and has transferred it over. Not a fan of using them for pattern cutting, but do like them for lining things up.
Thanks for the test and review. Where did you source your red triangles?
I’m wanting to get into leather work and have made a wallet a few times and enjoy doing it! I’m curious where you got your logo stamp?
I have 3 'leather mentors', The Corter Guy, The Mascon Guy and The Weaver Guy. The bulk of what I know you guys taught me. For me, what you practice you will get proficient in. I use methods of all 3 in combination. And it works, without have to buy extra kit. It was just kit that was already at hand. Thanks for making leather work a part of our lives.
Absolutely! Describes me to a tee as well......
Each to his own. Depending on what I'm cutting out, I do sometimes find my own modified version of the bump jig method to work best and on others I use methods more similar to yours. With some leathers I really don't like marking on the leather if I don't absolutely have to. Marking just ends up being an extra added and sometimes messy and unnecessary step. I use whichever method comes more natural to me in many cases. I don't have a usable grid on my bench surface at this time. So the alternative is to measure everything and use traditional layout methods that I learned all the way back in woodshop. Idk. I think there's time and place for both methods. I'm not as organized and always have everything just perfect and at my fingertips to make cutouts like you do. And I find the bump jig method as Mascon does it to be a bit cumbersome and redundant sometimes. So I do it differently in some cases. His bump jogs he sells are not aluminum, btw .. so cutting into them isn't an issue. He does have some centering rulers and such that are pretty nice. ...I like the one I got from hobby lobby just fine but wish it was steel rather than acrylic. But hey whatever. The good thing is that everybody gets to make their stuff however they want to and nobody has any say as to how they go about it. Don't get mad at Mascon for being a capitalist tho... Nobody has to buy them if they don't want to...and they can go make their own like I did for a tiny fraction of the cost.
“Bump Jig Wars: The Movie”
Stars Jon Berenthal as The Good Knight Sir Eric of Corter, and Johnny Depp as the tattooed, whiskey drinking Evil King Artie, ruler of the Masconian Empire. Followers from both sides fight each other with rubber mallets and 6 inch mannequins. Sir Eric sees the opposing forces coming and starts the war by shouting ‘Hey Everybody’….
Still working out the rest of the plot…😉
Seriously though Eric, your videos are great and I’ve learned a lot from watching all of them, you have an easy-going way about you when explaining things that is very helpful, thank you. 👍
I"m slow and it took me less then 30 seconds using the bump method to cut out a rectangle as you just did. I'm sure that Mascon Leather would have done in in 15 sec or less. Grant it, it does take a little getting used to but, once you have done it a few times it's actually, very simple, fast and efficient.
Regarding the wood/leather diskussion. The bookbinder TH-camr DAS introduced me to a easy cheap method to sqaring up paper using a woodbar and rulers. Now leather is not paper but to get that first 90 degree angle and to make pattern of cardstock its awsome.
I'm with you on bump jigs. If you watch the same guy with bump jigs, I know what you are talking about. He does a good job and bump jigs are his thing and that is okay. I enjoy his videos too as I do yours. That is why I subscribe to your channel.
I was all ready to buy bump jigs, but was saved from it by the price. 🥳
It looks COOL! I've done leather work for 60 years and haven't used bump jigs. Don't think I will start now. 🙂
I've been riding a horse for 60 years. Don't think I'll start driving a car now. It's a wonder you know how to get to TH-cam!
Bump jigs are another tool on my tool box. I use them as an alignment aid as often as I use them to cut from a pattern. It takes practice
I have nerve damage in my hands, the bump jigs are really useful. But I now have a 10W laser 1/10 the time including the holes! It now takes me longer to sew then to cut and punch holes!
For a beginner like myself, and having some woodworking background, I find bump jigs give me a sense of security, as my hand is not steady yet, and the leathers I practice on are arbitrary and cheap, sometimes not even scratchable. I hope to develop the right habits with time and start doing more things freehand. I don't have a proper grid mat yet either.
I saw the same videos. The one I watched last night was basically a commercial to sell a $170 ruler and a $100+ corner jig. I was interested right up until I saw the price.
I figured that the bump jig would be a good intermediate between cut/trace and a clicker press. If I did want to go into production, I'd want as much consistency between cuts as possible and clicker presses are really expensive where I am.
I use a piece of brass bar as my bump jig. It works well in my small space, which my desktop, I’ve got used to this method and I’m able to make a four pocket wallet in a about 4 hours. It works for me but so does using a scratch awl. Im happy to learn fast methods if I’m making money from my products as time is money.
Good video!
Bump jigs habe their place. I use them for things I have to repeat a few times. Task determines tool use, not the other way round.
Also: I have left a piece of my thumb on my workbench a few weeks ago. Using a steel ruler alone does not free oneself from paying attention, that's all I'm saying.
Everyone works differently and can recommend an array of things that they do. it does not mean there wrong they just have there own way of doing things. I know at least 8 amazing craftsman who use bump jigs and 5 are not influencers on youtube.
I saw a video by another crafter two maybe three months ago and he was using the bump jigs. I learned more in YOUR video on how to use them than I did in the other guys - and he exclusively uses the bump jigs.
Not that I'm fishing for sympathy, but I have limited use of one of my hands and just using a ruler with my gridded mat is tough enough - I don't need the chaos of the bump jigs.
If I was a well coordinated octopus the bump jig method might work efficiently, but unfortunately I'm a human with only two hands! That being said, I always found bump jigs to require to many tools and be very fumbly! I do use a bump jig when I mark corners to get perfect alignment with a radius jig and I do have custom made acrylic right angle jigs in different widths for quickly and accurately placing my makers mark. Thats about it for jigs though, the rest is done with a pattern, scratch awl, and a knife to make the process as efficient as possible. Great subject to bring up CL, I definitely think that it needed to be addressed! Thanks
My biggest use of a bump jig is to line my square up against the edge of the leather. I have an aluminum bar I press against the edge of the leather, then I press my square against that. It is both faster and more precise for me.
I don't have a 90 degree bump jig, but I want to get a couple.
I use plastic alignment squares to align patterns, make sure my ruler is square on a piece, etc. I never quite got the "bump jig switcheroo" method as a real advantage.
I feel that the advantage of the bump jig version vs tracing comes in with cutting multiple pieces. You can use less cuts to get the pieces cut out vs trace and cut, let me detail how
Cut 1 - Base line for all pieces
Cut 2 - 90deg cut which becomes the right side for the first piece
Cut 3 - top cut for all pieces
Cut 4 - completes the first piece and is the right side for piece 2
Cut 5 - completes piece 2 and is the right side for piece 3
Cut 6 - completes piece 3 and is the right side for piece 4
Cut 7 - completes piece 4
So for 7 cuts you get to cut all 4 pieces to size, if you trace all 4 pieces then you need 4 cuts per piece and have to do 16 cuts, over 50% less cuts required.
100 percent correct. Thanks for laying it out. That helps.
The Bump Jig method for me makes sense and it works easily everyone. It’s clean and very efficient once practiced. But…. Paying hundreds of dollars for the bump jigs on some sites is crazy. And the fancy ruler deal is like $100+ is silly.
I have been using a little one and have looked into the mascon/zeebee ones but haven’t committed to the cost yet
I use a simple Machinist Square to help me line up my leather and regular square for straight cuts.
By the way, did you know Weaver isn't doing the "corter" free shipping code any more?
I used straight edged and 90° "jigs" in wood work for years. Applying them to leatherwork was a no brainer for me. I found mascon uses them (and makes them) and I was a bit deflated as I thought it was my brilliant idea lol. It is by far the easiest and quickest way I've found to pump out work without using a clicker. They also provide safety as they are thick and stop blades from jumping. One reason why they are used in wood and metal work. Other rules used in leather and fabric are thin and dont provide much support or a barrier to the blade. I have mates that trace and cut with straight edges etc and others that cut with no guide. But the jigs eliminate most chances at making mistakes.
I don't see any value in the product the m&zb guys sell. It's crazy over priced but the idea is rock solid.
I also know a guy that sells $40 bottle openers too. Still a rock solid idea but also a highly priced version of a simple existing tool. 🤙
Hey Corter, nice Video as usual. Could you schow us how you stamp in your Logo? Thanks!
When I trace and cut I struggle getting things consistently square. I typically bump the ruler against the square and cut that way.
I tired using squares and was fumbling with them. I do like the centering of a stamp with them
The point of bump jigs is that you don’t have to think. You just position and cut. You get faster with practice.
Love the videos! I have about one year experience using bump jigs and wanted to share.
I love the idea of bump jigs since I'm new to leatherworking and enjoy trying patterns I like off of Etsy. I think there's a range of quality when it comes to bump jigs and I don't think it was represented in the video. I don't think aluminum square framing jigs are the best examples of bump jigs - I've bought cheap brass bars cut to size where I stuck cork tape to the bottoms to help it from sliding and they work wonders. It helps a lot to have different heights (lower bars are great for cutting, taller bars for setting up patterns and stamping) and they have a nice weight since they're brass (so you can use them as pattern weights also!)
Do we use bump jigs to make 90’ angles on a house ?
What kind of thread do you use? Flat? Round? Size - 0.8??
I wasn't offended by the price of the bump jigs or specialized rulers. I understand that machining small quantities of anything in the US is expensive. I was, however, shocked by the price of the regular ol' leather goods on their site. 😅 Wow. More power to 'em if they're making sales, but I figured they were doing fine and didn't need my money.
Made my own thicc squares on the Glowforge with acrylic. If they wear out, I'll make more. 🤷🏾♀️
I use both methods. I'm far more accurate and much faster using the bump jig method when I already have a pattern I'm following. I use a piece of tool steel I had for my flat edge then used a cork backed ruler to cut against. I have those aluminum angles too and almost never use them. For me, tracing patterns is super clunky and slow. But that's probably because I've done a lot more bump jigging than tracing and cutting. I don't see any reason to down play either method - I'd think both methods are good and just depends on what an individual is most proficient at. It'd only take me a minute or so to cut out a pocket, sure as heck wouldn't take 4 minutes!
what size exact knife blades do you use by the way??
#2 probably they are bigger than the standard hobby size #11 and bow less so that adds a level of precision when cutting too
It’s gonna be faster with you using scratch awl since that’s what you’re used to. I use bump jiggs and can get it done just as fast. All comes down to what you prefer