There is a certain masochist quality to Jag ownership. As an xj-s owner 14 years on, I can report that the maintenance is never truly over but the car thrives on its owner's attention and so the more you put into it, the more you will get out of it. It will become more reliable over time. "Experience in a Book: Help For the Jaguar XJ-S Owner" by Kirby Palm is an invaluable resource of which I'm sure you're already aware but just in case! It's available for free, in its entirety, online.
To be honest, it doesn't look bad. Whilst it has some rot it's not falling to bits in a big pile of wet cornflakes and the outer sills look good. There are X308's from 2002 that are much worse.
I think £1,200 is a good price for all the welding and fabrication needed, I would have thought their would be around 45 hours work there, in some work shops you could probably almost double that price. I wish you good luck with getting it fixed and soon you will have a good usable XJS but maybe not in the winter months.😀😀
The radius arm mounts can rot out because water gets inside the panels through the rear windows. It's important you check for any leaks before welding it back up. Time to get out the wire wheel, paint and grease and go to town on the brown!
stick with it Jimbo as you will have a lovely car which you will be proud to own. Really the corrosion is what one has to expect from a 30 plus year old car - and I think you said it had been living in Scotland or the north of England so plenty of salty road winters have been endured! My ´88 V12 was in a similar state and in addition needed a new front subframe and a host of other items but as you rightly said, that´s classic car ownership. It will always cost more than you originally think but there is no other way than to do it properly - or don´t do it all. On the good side don´t forget that the Xj-S was somewhat over engineered in terms of body construction so they are very strong. Best regards. Peter D-W
There are access holes into the radius arm box section and the chassis rail under the carpet just below the front edge of the back seat. I sprayed fisholene into my 1979 model car and they are still solid. Prevention is always better than cure. I don't live in the UK though where cars always seem to rust badly. The front jacking points also have access holes under the carpet.
I’ve watched all the XJS videos, love them. I’m in a similar position as you , I bought a 2000 XK8 Coupe last year and I’ve spent quite a lot of cash on it, I’ve had one rear arch repaired and plated and the other getting done next month. I’ve spent loads, battery, alternator numerous sensor’s replaced. I nearly got rid a few times but stuck at it and I am not rushing things now, just taking my time with it. I have a massive list electric front seats and mirrors to sort, I have to be careful as XK8’s aren’t really worth anything so I can’t go mad. Stick at it and as I said I can relate to your ownership.
I would recommend to use OWATROL products for corosion prevention. You can do this on your own in a DIY workshop. It takes time to remove rust, bring on the protection oil and later on the paint on the underbody. I used a construction site spotlight to make all rusty parts visible. This action extended the live of my old Mercedes E-Class from 1993 about several years!
Very good video, and nice to see some of the real weak spots on the XJS. Although the rot is not very nice, it's an excellent car overall and I agree worth the investment. Looking forward to seeing it back on the road!
It seems like it’s never ending , ask me how I know lol. I think if you can stick with it , you have a really nice motor and it drove fantastic before this. I hope things go well for you when this is out of the way and you have a good spring/ summer .
While mine does not have the rust/rot issues, I do have the manual gearbox conversion and Andrew's comment that the manual's torque imposes more stress on the steel structure caused me a little concern. How much do non-rotted XJ-S owners need to worry about torque-related stress on our frames?
Great question and I’m no engineer but believe the XJS to be well built, if in tip-top condition and not running additional power, it’ll probably be fine. I spoke to an owner of a Lister 7.0, who told me that they have to have significant upgrade work on the rear assembly to deal with the extra power, but we’re talking 500-odd, or more BHP!!
Sorry to see this. I know what's its like when you are presented with unexpected bills. Have a 1996 celebration myself, owned for 8 years now. Have now resigned to have a budget to run this annually and guess what its never enough. Still the pleasure of ownership and driving and comments from people make up for the expense ..... almost.
Front chassis legs also rot were the front frame mounts and I have not seen a xjs were the the inner strut mounts are rotten as it’s double skinned and a water trap ! Have 4 xjs in my workshop and restored countless wish the ones I’m working on are as easy a repair as that one
Out of interest have you driven it much in the wet/salt? I agree that once sorted, if you only really use it in the dry, it should be sorted for many years. Even if there are other bits that are getting a bit thin, wire wheel them back to shiny metal & repaint in something strong, combine with cavity wax injection, will make it so they don;t get any worse.
This is a warning to all Classic Car wannabys the shiny exterior may look great but our British climate with Salty roads over years and years destroys the underside and unless its had a full resto be very careful, I see so many cars that have been freshly painted and are full of body filler 2 years down the line they look like an Aero Chocolate Bar.
The salt really is a killer. If only winter tyres were something the British public had the mental capacity to accept were a very good thing we wouldn't need to spread bloody salt everywhere every time it gets a bit cold.
@@jamieduff1981 Problem now is people have no idea how to drive in ice or snow and if there was no salt on the roads it would be carnage and people would expect their abs and traction control to save them🥴😭
@@johnbeckett2624 Sadly true. Or they think AWD implies better braking and lateral grip in slippery conditions whilst invariably running on summer tyres
Thank you. Now, you think I’d know, but I’m not sure. I think they are 8J 16” rims from and XJ40, originally. They are running 225 50 16 tires, if that helps?
There is a certain masochist quality to Jag ownership. As an xj-s owner 14 years on, I can report that the maintenance is never truly over but the car thrives on its owner's attention and so the more you put into it, the more you will get out of it. It will become more reliable over time.
"Experience in a Book: Help For the Jaguar XJ-S Owner" by Kirby Palm is an invaluable resource of which I'm sure you're already aware but just in case! It's available for free, in its entirety, online.
Thanks. That’s not a book I’ve heard of, but one I will be looking up!
Andrew Spiteri one of the UK's top Jaguar men. Thank you for the work you did on my 4.2 S Type
To be honest, it doesn't look bad. Whilst it has some rot it's not falling to bits in a big pile of wet cornflakes and the outer sills look good. There are X308's from 2002 that are much worse.
I think £1,200 is a good price for all the welding and fabrication needed, I would have thought their would be around 45 hours work there, in some work shops you could probably almost double that price.
I wish you good luck with getting it fixed and soon you will have a good usable XJS but maybe not in the winter months.😀😀
Let’s just hope it’s not like opening a can of (tin) worms when they start getting into it! 😊
Tons of bits to get XJS looking fab. Front and rear valance, quarters, floor panels. just need the cash as always. love these cars.
The radius arm mounts can rot out because water gets inside the panels through the rear windows. It's important you check for any leaks before welding it back up.
Time to get out the wire wheel, paint and grease and go to town on the brown!
stick with it Jimbo as you will have a lovely car which you will be proud to own. Really the corrosion is what one has to expect from a 30 plus year old car - and I think you said it had been living in Scotland or the north of England so plenty of salty road winters have been endured! My ´88 V12 was in a similar state and in addition needed a new front subframe and a host of other items but as you rightly said, that´s classic car ownership. It will always cost more than you originally think but there is no other way than to do it properly - or don´t do it all. On the good side don´t forget that the Xj-S was somewhat over engineered in terms of body construction so they are very strong. Best regards. Peter D-W
Searching for a 1988 Jaguar XJS convertible front windshield. In Connecticut, will travel.
Have you looked at the rear subframe, it would make sense to drop it out to do the work and inspect the body hidden above it
This was overhauled a few years ago, but if it needs to come out will be having a thorough inspection.
You’ve got a lovely car Jimbo and this job will make it better. V12 manuals are rare and worth more than autos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
There are access holes into the radius arm box section and the chassis rail under the carpet just below the front edge of the back seat. I sprayed fisholene into my 1979 model car and they are still solid. Prevention is always better than cure. I don't live in the UK though where cars always seem to rust badly. The front jacking points also have access holes under the carpet.
the salt on the roads in winter time doesnt help
Bad luck bud . Hope it goes well. Manual are great!
I’ve watched all the XJS videos, love them. I’m in a similar position as you , I bought a 2000 XK8 Coupe last year and I’ve spent quite a lot of cash on it, I’ve had one rear arch repaired and plated and the other getting done next month. I’ve spent loads, battery, alternator numerous sensor’s replaced. I nearly got rid a few times but stuck at it and I am not rushing things now, just taking my time with it. I have a massive list electric front seats and mirrors to sort, I have to be careful as XK8’s aren’t really worth anything so I can’t go mad. Stick at it and as I said I can relate to your ownership.
I would recommend to use OWATROL products for corosion prevention. You can do this on your own in a DIY workshop. It takes time to remove rust, bring on the protection oil and later on the paint on the underbody. I used a construction site spotlight to make all rusty parts visible. This action extended the live of my old Mercedes E-Class from 1993 about several years!
NATO gurulan PX 11a is best
Very good video, and nice to see some of the real weak spots on the XJS. Although the rot is not very nice, it's an excellent car overall and I agree worth the investment. Looking forward to seeing it back on the road!
Interesting to see! On my 1991 Jaguar XJ40 Sovereign, these arms are not present. They redesigned the rear suspension.
It seems like it’s never ending , ask me how I know lol. I think if you can stick with it , you have a really nice motor and it drove fantastic before this. I hope things go well for you when this is out of the way and you have a good spring/ summer .
While mine does not have the rust/rot issues, I do have the manual gearbox conversion and Andrew's comment that the manual's torque imposes more stress on the steel structure caused me a little concern. How much do non-rotted XJ-S owners need to worry about torque-related stress on our frames?
Great question and I’m no engineer but believe the XJS to be well built, if in tip-top condition and not running additional power, it’ll probably be fine. I spoke to an owner of a Lister 7.0, who told me that they have to have significant upgrade work on the rear assembly to deal with the extra power, but we’re talking 500-odd, or more BHP!!
Sorry to see this. I know what's its like when you are presented with unexpected bills. Have a 1996 celebration myself, owned for 8 years now. Have now resigned to have a budget to run this annually and guess what its never enough. Still the pleasure of ownership and driving and comments from people make up for the expense ..... almost.
Front chassis legs also rot were the front frame mounts and I have not seen a xjs were the the inner strut mounts are rotten as it’s double skinned and a water trap ! Have 4 xjs in my workshop and restored countless wish the ones I’m working on are as easy a repair as that one
Out of interest have you driven it much in the wet/salt? I agree that once sorted, if you only really use it in the dry, it should be sorted for many years. Even if there are other bits that are getting a bit thin, wire wheel them back to shiny metal & repaint in something strong, combine with cavity wax injection, will make it so they don;t get any worse.
I’ve not driven it much in the winter at all, but it’s 39 years old, so has had long enough for the rot to get in at some stage.
Good luck !!
It won't be dead money, you have documented everything spent on the car so if it is ever up for sale the new owner can confidently buy
Good luck
You UK people deal with so much corrosion on cars. Rarely see that on cars living in Australia.
When describing an old Jag the first word thought of is always RUST.
Do you happen to know whether injectors of the PRE-HE and the HE engine are identical?
No they are not
I would assume not and Jason seems confident in that, too 😁
@@JimbosDriveway I’m not confident I’m 100percent positive!
Darth Vader behind the camera 😂
This is a warning to all Classic Car wannabys the shiny exterior may look great but our British climate with Salty roads over years and years destroys the underside and unless its had a full resto be very careful, I see so many cars that have been freshly painted and are full of body filler 2 years down the line they look like an Aero Chocolate Bar.
The salt really is a killer. If only winter tyres were something the British public had the mental capacity to accept were a very good thing we wouldn't need to spread bloody salt everywhere every time it gets a bit cold.
@@jamieduff1981 Problem now is people have no idea how to drive in ice or snow and if there was no salt on the roads it would be carnage and people would expect their abs and traction control to save them🥴😭
@@johnbeckett2624 Sadly true. Or they think AWD implies better braking and lateral grip in slippery conditions whilst invariably running on summer tyres
Hi,
If I may ask, which wheel/tyre combination do you drive on your XJS. Are these 8J*16 or 7J*16? They look absolutely great on your car!
Thank you. Now, you think I’d know, but I’m not sure. I think they are 8J 16” rims from and XJ40, originally. They are running 225 50 16 tires, if that helps?
Another 7 grand?