I have a Chinese diesel heater in my workshop and it has been fantastic , it works quiet and efficiently. I was very sceptical about it because of the price but I cannot fault it . I have now bought an Hcalory one for my Nelson 42 to replace the old Eberspatcher and it is almost a direct swap . The advantage with it seems to be the simpler wiring with all the electronics built in . Time will tell as to it’s reliability but at £138 it is a small risk compared to the replacement with a like for like Eberspatcher at nearly £1400 !! There are plenty of you tube videos on these and very few negatives reported so we shall see how it goes .
I know you have fitted many diesel heaters but if I might offer some words of advice in regard to the exhaust location. Technical wisdom indicates that the pipe should either exit level or downhill from the heater. This is to prevent the buid up of acidic residue that occurs upon start up and rundown. This residue if trapped will eventually rot through the exhaust piping even withstanding that it is stainless steel. Hope you are not offended as i am an avid subscriber.
Hi Guys, I watch a youtube machinist in the Cape Cod area in the USA. One of his jobs is straightening prop shaft to within extremely close tolerance. Maybe you could find someone locally to do the job. Love watching you working on your big wooden boat. Thanks and keep it up.
The starboard prop shaft appeared to have a serious whip! Possibly caused by engine alignment, or mishandling by your delivery service from the machine shop to the boatyard. Even newly machined shafts could leave the shop straight and arrive bent. To overcome this problem I used to lift them off the lathe and put them straight on to a special attachment on the roof rack of an estate car and drive to the yard! Autotherm is a good product but while it is claimed to be made in Latvia, it is actually made in Russia, Supplies of parts may become scarce. One of the byproducts of combustion is water. It is recommended that a condensation trap is fitted to the lowest point of the exhaust otherwise you will have problems down the line. This applies to all makes of diesel heater.
One big short circuit was enough for me to learn that you need some electric tape with heat shrink tubes :) Just a tip to avoid those difficult electric issues :)
Just a little tip, and if you look you might see my old boat Marion in Pwllheli. I had the air intake in mine in the lazzerette, so it was sucking smelly air, heating it and blowing it into the cabin, perhaps you can route a pipe to bring fresh air from outside into the heater and not the engine room, I pulled it in from the other end of the cabin
Two great achievements, lights and heater. However, I think that the best achievement is the way you as a couple, climb from adversity, as in vibrations and the cost of curing them, back to something really positive.
Just wondering, did you check in the US for the props? FedEx goes everywhere!! And up and down the east coast you can fine about any type of marine products you can want.
After you disturbed the p bracket and removed the shaft s, did you properly realign the gearboxes to the shafts? It’s done with feeler gauges and adjusting the engine mounts. It needs to be done every time. If you keep running the shafts out of water you will cook the cutless bearings in no time
Good episode even if it is about an expensive situation. So you have a wobbly shaft and poorly props, so I think shifting to light power propulsion is just genius, although you need to fit a couple up forward for manoeuvring.😉🤣 As the shafts are coming out - Get a ‘top hat’ turned out of nylon - outside diameter close fit into the stern tube, inside diameter that fits over the shaft at the stern tube end - this will enable you to ensure the shaft is running centrally through cutlass and stern tube (at the stern seal end). This is step 1 in shaft alignment. What follows is the engine/gearbox alignment to the shaft you can do this on the hard to get you to the right ballpark but it needs a final check once the boat is afloat. I don’t like the shaft mounted anode - would be worth investigating of you could mount that on the strut.
With all large projects there are setbacks and delays and problems. But in hindsight they appear miniscule compared to the finished result that one can be proud of.
Before jacking your engine at all four mounts disconnect the coupling then make sure the shaft when passing to the inside (engineroom) at the stuffing box. Make sure the shaft is centered in that stuffing box. If the shaft was dragging on the bronze you would see some bronze dust near and beneth the stuffing box and this can cause shaft deflection and possible shaft whiping. Make sure the the gap between shaft and stuffing box is equal distance all around. If not you will need to make an x jig inside engineroom to hold the coupling in alignment till you jack the engine to the shaft coupling. When the coupling Halfes can slide together and the shaft passes in the stuffing box equal distant gap all around put in your coupling bolts and tighten to about .025 inch coupling gap. Then check your gap at 000. 090 180 and 270 degrees. Check coupling to your gear mfg. Specifications. That should be the process. I hope that is helpful to you. My qualifications is that I was a Senior Chief Machinery Technician and Warrant Officer Naval Engineer for 31 years in the U.S. Coast Guard. If you have further trouble we can email further. MEC
I have no experience with boat drive trains but as an engineer the position of the zincs on the shaft concerns me. They are not a high precision item (and will continue to be so as they erode) so the engineer in me would not position them mid way along the shaft I would probably fit them close to the bracket. There may however be a reason they are where they are.
real top tip for using heat shrink on a boats electrical joints it to slide a couple of slivers of heat stick glue off a glue stick into the heat shrink before heating. It gives a total water and salt air seal and protection as it melts with the heating process and fills the joint making it fail proof.
One thing that looks like a possible issue with the vibrations without props is the location of the shaft anodes. I would think being located closer to the strut would be better.
I remember looking at that lighting stand inside the main tent at Southampton boat show....they had an amazing choice of lights....not much call for them on my Rib boat, but I was tempted 😊
So sorry you are having so many problems with the Tiara. I live about 40 minutes from Holland, Michigan where they are produced, but you're so far away.😮 I could grab the parts, but that wouldn't help much. Your perseverance in these projects is amazing. I love your channel! You encourage me to keep on keeping on!❤
You need to change the diesel heater silencer to a marine grade one immediately. The one fitted is not air tight as it’s designed to be used outside. You run a serious risk of c02 poisoning with that silencer. Marine grade ones are about £40 and are fully welded and sealed
I have always wanted to fit lights to my vessels but for one reason or another never got around to doing it, so to say I am looking forward to you getting to sea or in harbour and use them will be a treat.
Really looking forward to seeing what your new lights look like in the water - we'd really like to fit some to our boat. Interesting you're fitting your new diesel heater in this video. We stayed on our boat last night and had our diesel heater on for the first time this winter. I really hope the new prop's and shafts sort the vibration problem.
Honestly, I was really happy with mine last winter.. I was using a dryvan trailer as mobile shop.. ran the heater when not running the genset and furnace. Now just a 12 x16 shop, and semi-retired tuning vintage 2-stroke bikes, saws, and boat motors.
Many years ago I had a similar problem with (UK sourced) replacement propeller shafts on my Bertram 28. Basically the problem was the narrow diameter of the original shafts at high rotation speeds. Bertram solved this by using 'Nibral' steel for these components. I have no idea, to this date, what Nibral steel is and neither did any of the UK specialists I approached for help at that time. However when I finally had to order new ones from the 'States (via the Bertram dealer in St Tropez, France. - Sadly no longer in business) these 'Nibral shafts worked just fine. So, to cut a long story short, if you get stuck, may I suggest you just get replacements direct from the US. This may save you money in the long run (and if you find out what 'Nibral' steel is please let me know) - Have fun - The Tiara is a great boat.
From my uncle Google "Nibal a metal alloy made of nickel, bronze and aluminium, often used for underwater parts of ships and boats, such as propellers, stabilizers, and foils" so your shafts probably weren't made from that, prop shafts are generally made from stainless steel from either type 630, 316, 304, and 30 according to my uncle.
I love cliff hanger endings. Stay warm you's two. Good luck with the props. Looking forwards to the next episode.By the way those lights will look awesome when you're in the water.
Realize its been a lot more work and money spent then you had hoped. However it impresses me with the quality of build the boat appears to be? Considering how old it was perhaps you were a little optimistic in the first place? Going to be a great family boat once it hits the water! 😊 OMG just stumbled on your Boat Restoration Channel ..... LOL, these repairs are nothing compared to what you have your hands on with your WW2 ship rebuild! Crazy you two .. 😂
I just to say I hope all goes well with this particular boat . I have watched all your adventures on on the other one .i do hope everything you do to each full fills your dreams.
If you don't mind shipping to the states, There is a U-tuber, Keith Fenner Who specializes in boat shafting . He would probably do a video about it. He is top shelf !
Well done you two, brilliant, think we all feel your frustration and yes must agree a "pick me up" was well overdue! The heater is a must but those lights are just awesome!! 👌 All the best 👍
Great that you are committed to doing it right. Have you considered rechecking the crank endplay, especially since shafts are out? Also, rechecked the injectors?
Awesome lights guys and that heater will make a difference to your time on the boat too. So as you both pointed out you could maybe do with lighting in the engine bay and better lights in the cabin too, as just like the heater it will make your time on the boat a lot more pleasant. Good luck getting her splashed on time and getting the the fun times you both clearly need started
i know little about boats, other than what i have seen, a couple of You Tubers, i did question the props when you put them on, kind of looked like old fishing boats (haha as you described tug boats) probably not far from the truth - i reckon yours need to look much sportier - the vibration in them shafts without the props suggests an issue with the type of shaft, almost as if you need another stabiliser in between the engine and support at the propeller end - does question everything that the previous owner did to muck this boat up - great you guys have got some brains to investigate further, get the professional views from others - great work
The lights looks really nice but don´t over use them while out of the water I think the water is meant to keep them cool, even led´s get hot when run long enough especially with out cooling.
Don't forget the shed on the transom, for the youngster's sailing dinghy! (nothing heard about that for a good while!) - - I've never seen prop-shafts bend like that! Perhaps they have been skimmed at some time, and have more mass on one side than the other, so although they measure straight when static, the off-centre mass causes them to bend, a bit like the buzzer in your phone, only bigger!
I do enjoy following you both as you take on different interesting tasks each week 👏😁, I’m sure you’ve got some great adventures ahead of you once she is finally in the water 😎
Simon, I fitted a diesel heater last year, like you did, I also had a bend in the exhaust ending up higher then the exhaust port. After a few times of use I heard a gurgling at the bottom of the exhaust bend. It had filled up with moisture and was full of water. I had to place the heater higher and have the exhaust port lower to cure this issue.
My uncle was right sadly... there an expensive hobby Keep yourheads up guys I HOPE YOU WENT BACK TO TO GUYS THAT DID THE REPAIRS AND COMPLAIN !! Looking forward to the next one guys .. STAY WARM AND SAIN X
Shouldn’t you have rigged up some sort of water running through the cutless bearings? Did you check the shaft coupling/transmission alignment before condemning the props?
Be so cosy in there now, will make big difference. Sad to hear about the props, shame the advice you got turned out to be wrong could have put that money to the new ones. keep fingers crossed they do not take too long to arrive.
The two happiest days in a mans life is the day he buys a boat and the day he sales the boat. I live in Florida and have owned several boats and at some point they just become money pits
Looks good guys.... with all of the new electronics I hope you are making a wiring diagram with numbers and letters matching on it.... be the crap's getting out and needed such. Greets from Rock Island Illinois
Bit more metalwork and bearings halfway up the shaft homework for you Simon. Worrying as if you ground even new props just once you could be back where you started.
Despite replacing the propellers, it seems necessary to recheck the alignment of the engines.
Thanks
Thank you so much for your support x
Thanks here's a little something towards the new propellers
Aww Mark, that I extremely generous of you, thank you so much xx
I have a Chinese diesel heater in my workshop and it has been fantastic , it works quiet and efficiently. I was very sceptical about it because of the price but I cannot fault it .
I have now bought an Hcalory one for my Nelson 42 to replace the old Eberspatcher and it is almost a direct swap . The advantage with it seems to be the simpler wiring with all the electronics built in . Time will tell as to it’s reliability but at £138 it is a small risk compared to the replacement with a like for like Eberspatcher at nearly £1400 !!
There are plenty of you tube videos on these and very few negatives reported so we shall see how it goes .
Second winter for me in my small shop..
Over drill your holes and refill with epoxy, than drill correct hole size . That allows you to make sure the glass is sealed
Good advice amazing how many don't know that..
I'd rather have a boat with out all them holes through the hull
Just for gadgets you can do with out
That's just me tho
@@briansmythe3000 yea I'm of the same mind especially below or splash line.. but it is fairly common now I'm told .. retired several years ago..
@@briansmythe3000n I’m with you. No way I’m drilling a hole in my hull for something as irrelevant as underwater lights
@@briansmythe3000to be fair though they are only doing it because they got them for free in return for advertising
Thanks
Thank you so much Bruce xx
I know you have fitted many diesel heaters but if I might offer some words of advice in regard to the exhaust location. Technical wisdom indicates that the pipe should either exit level or downhill from the heater. This is to prevent the buid up of acidic residue that occurs upon start up and rundown. This residue if trapped will eventually rot through the exhaust piping even withstanding that it is stainless steel. Hope you are not offended as i am an avid subscriber.
Hi Guys, I watch a youtube machinist in the Cape Cod area in the USA. One of his jobs is straightening prop shaft to within extremely close tolerance. Maybe you could find someone locally to do the job. Love watching you working on your big wooden boat. Thanks and keep it up.
You guys are good for my soul! Thank you so very much for being who you are. 😀
The starboard prop shaft appeared to have a serious whip! Possibly caused by engine alignment, or mishandling by your delivery service from the machine shop to the boatyard. Even newly machined shafts could leave the shop straight and arrive bent. To overcome this problem I used to lift them off the lathe and put them straight on to a special attachment on the roof rack of an estate car and drive to the yard!
Autotherm is a good product but while it is claimed to be made in Latvia, it is actually made in Russia, Supplies of parts may become scarce. One of the byproducts of combustion is water. It is recommended that a condensation trap is fitted to the lowest point of the exhaust otherwise you will have problems down the line. This applies to all makes of diesel heater.
Like the lights good luck with the prop and shafts see you next time 😊😊
One big short circuit was enough for me to learn that you need some electric tape with heat shrink tubes :) Just a tip to avoid those difficult electric issues :)
Thanks!
Thank you so much Wiley ❤️
Just a little tip, and if you look you might see my old boat Marion in Pwllheli. I had the air intake in mine in the lazzerette, so it was sucking smelly air, heating it and blowing it into the cabin, perhaps you can route a pipe to bring fresh air from outside into the heater and not the engine room, I pulled it in from the other end of the cabin
Two great achievements, lights and heater. However, I think that the best achievement is the way you as a couple, climb from adversity, as in vibrations and the cost of curing them, back to something really positive.
Just wondering, did you check in the US for the props? FedEx goes everywhere!! And up and down the east coast you can fine about any type of marine products you can want.
OOOOAAAAA! Underwater lighting, AND a diesel heater!
People are going to think you’re from Brighton!
After you disturbed the p bracket and removed the shaft s, did you properly realign the gearboxes to the shafts? It’s done with feeler gauges and adjusting the engine mounts. It needs to be done every time. If you keep running the shafts out of water you will cook the cutless bearings in no time
I suggest you buy a water tight box to store all the handheld devices. With desiccant bag. So long term storage. Save the electronics.
Now you need underwater speakers and you can have your own fish disco!
Good episode even if it is about an expensive situation.
So you have a wobbly shaft and poorly props, so I think shifting to light power propulsion is just genius, although you need to fit a couple up forward for manoeuvring.😉🤣
As the shafts are coming out - Get a ‘top hat’ turned out of nylon - outside diameter close fit into the stern tube, inside diameter that fits over the shaft at the stern tube end - this will enable you to ensure the shaft is running centrally through cutlass and stern tube (at the stern seal end). This is step 1 in shaft alignment. What follows is the engine/gearbox alignment to the shaft you can do this on the hard to get you to the right ballpark but it needs a final check once the boat is afloat.
I don’t like the shaft mounted anode - would be worth investigating of you could mount that on the strut.
You guys are so optimistic! Life serves you lemons and you go ahead and make lemonade!
A pair of matching led lights in the bow, one each side would make all the difference I'd say. Good job, and I hope that those props turn up soon.
Next time spray some water on the p brackets to help liberate the shaft and stop any judder from the dry rubber.
With all large projects there are setbacks and delays and problems. But in hindsight they appear miniscule compared to the finished result that one can be proud of.
Before jacking your engine at all four mounts disconnect the coupling then make sure the shaft when passing to the inside (engineroom) at the stuffing box. Make sure the shaft is centered in that stuffing box. If the shaft was dragging on the bronze you would see some bronze dust near and beneth the stuffing box and this can cause shaft deflection and possible shaft whiping. Make sure the the gap between shaft and stuffing box is equal distance all around. If not you will need to make an x jig inside engineroom to hold the coupling in alignment till you jack the engine to the shaft coupling. When the coupling Halfes can slide together and the shaft passes in the stuffing box equal distant gap all around put in your coupling bolts and tighten to about .025 inch coupling gap. Then check your gap at 000. 090 180 and 270 degrees. Check coupling to your gear mfg. Specifications. That should be the process. I hope that is helpful to you. My qualifications is that I was a Senior Chief Machinery Technician and Warrant Officer Naval Engineer for 31 years in the U.S. Coast Guard. If you have further trouble we can email further. MEC
This is exactly right.👍
I have no experience with boat drive trains but as an engineer the position of the zincs on the shaft concerns me. They are not a high precision item (and will continue to be so as they erode) so the engineer in me would not position them mid way along the shaft I would probably fit them close to the bracket. There may however be a reason they are where they are.
real top tip for using heat shrink on a boats electrical joints it to slide a couple of slivers of heat stick glue off a glue stick into the heat shrink before heating. It gives a total water and salt air seal and protection as it melts with the heating process and fills the joint making it fail proof.
I'll have to remember that one! You can get glue lined heatshrink too, but it costs a bit more.
One thing that looks like a possible issue with the vibrations without props is the location of the shaft anodes. I would think being located closer to the strut would be better.
Yes that's what we thought, but we moved it after so many comments about it being to close to the cutlass bearing!!
I remember looking at that lighting stand inside the main tent at Southampton boat show....they had an amazing choice of lights....not much call for them on my Rib boat, but I was tempted 😊
Thanks
Thank you so much x
Keep your heads up guys, it will be a super boat once the kinks are worked out. 👍👍🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🤘🏻🤘🏻
So sorry you are having so many problems with the Tiara. I live about 40 minutes from Holland, Michigan where they are produced, but you're so far away.😮
I could grab the parts, but that wouldn't help much. Your perseverance in these projects is amazing. I love your channel! You encourage me to keep on keeping on!❤
You need to change the diesel heater silencer to a marine grade one immediately. The one fitted is not air tight as it’s designed to be used outside. You run a serious risk of c02 poisoning with that silencer. Marine grade ones are about £40 and are fully welded and sealed
Blimey, those lights are magnificent.
Can't wait to see them underwater!
as am from poole ,dorset.UK. i can tell you lights will attract fish to the boat area.
Back to the 80s with the discolights. As long as the boat is ready in april...who wants to be on the water when its freezing?
I have always wanted to fit lights to my vessels but for one reason or another never got around to doing it, so to say I am looking forward to you getting to sea or in harbour and use them will be a treat.
B-O-A-T = Bring Out Another Thousand! It is the same with our Narrowboat but at 4 MPH!
Really looking forward to seeing what your new lights look like in the water - we'd really like to fit some to our boat. Interesting you're fitting your new diesel heater in this video. We stayed on our boat last night and had our diesel heater on for the first time this winter. I really hope the new prop's and shafts sort the vibration problem.
Us too!
Honestly, I was really happy with mine last winter.. I was using a dryvan trailer as mobile shop.. ran the heater when not running the genset and furnace. Now just a 12 x16 shop, and semi-retired tuning vintage 2-stroke bikes, saws, and boat motors.
Many years ago I had a similar problem with (UK sourced) replacement propeller shafts on my Bertram 28. Basically the problem was the narrow diameter of the original shafts at high rotation speeds. Bertram solved this by using 'Nibral' steel for these components. I have no idea, to this date, what Nibral steel is and neither did any of the UK specialists I approached for help at that time. However when I finally had to order new ones from the 'States (via the Bertram dealer in St Tropez, France. - Sadly no longer in business) these 'Nibral shafts worked just fine. So, to cut a long story short, if you get stuck, may I suggest you just get replacements direct from the US. This may save you money in the long run (and if you find out what 'Nibral' steel is please let me know) - Have fun - The Tiara is a great boat.
From my uncle Google "Nibal a metal alloy made of nickel, bronze and aluminium, often used for underwater parts of ships and boats, such as propellers, stabilizers, and foils" so your shafts probably weren't made from that, prop shafts are generally made from stainless steel from either type 630, 316, 304, and 30 according to my uncle.
NiBrAl is Nickel , Bronze and Aluminium alloy. It is a very hard alloy and is strong and corrosion resistant
well done you two, you have a great attitude both of you.
So enjoyed this episode and encouraged to see the way you both work through boat “issues”.
I love cliff hanger endings. Stay warm you's two. Good luck with the props. Looking forwards to the next episode.By the way those lights will look awesome when you're in the water.
Realize its been a lot more work and money spent then you had hoped. However it impresses me with the quality of build the boat appears to be? Considering how old it was perhaps you were a little optimistic in the first place? Going to be a great family boat once it hits the water! 😊 OMG just stumbled on your Boat Restoration Channel ..... LOL, these repairs are nothing compared to what you have your hands on with your WW2 ship rebuild! Crazy you two .. 😂
I just to say I hope all goes well with this particular boat . I have watched all your adventures on on the other one .i do hope everything you do to each full fills your dreams.
If you don't mind shipping to the states, There is a U-tuber, Keith Fenner Who specializes in boat shafting . He would probably do a video about it. He is top shelf !
Only you can make me smile. although you going through it with the boat you still smile and get on with it. keep smiling and keep going crack on
Cheers Barry!
The lights look awesome😎
Take care Love You Both I like that heater a lot I have one in a cabin about 600 sq. feet works great!
Well done you two, brilliant, think we all feel your frustration and yes must agree a "pick me up" was well overdue! The heater is a must but those lights are just awesome!! 👌
All the best 👍
Great that you are committed to doing it right.
Have you considered rechecking the crank endplay, especially since shafts are out?
Also, rechecked the injectors?
Looking forward to seeing the new lights light up under the boat. So romantic for you too! lol
Awesome lights guys and that heater will make a difference to your time on the boat too.
So as you both pointed out you could maybe do with lighting in the engine bay and better lights in the cabin too, as just like the heater it will make your time on the boat a lot more pleasant.
Good luck getting her splashed on time and getting the the fun times you both clearly need started
I hope you lubed those cutlass bearings as they will make the shaft whip !!!!!!! and ruin the bearings !!!
Can’t wait to see it running full pelt in the water. Good luck. Hope you get chance to enjoy it before the next problem comes around
i know little about boats, other than what i have seen, a couple of You Tubers, i did question the props when you put them on, kind of looked like old fishing boats (haha as you described tug boats) probably not far from the truth - i reckon yours need to look much sportier - the vibration in them shafts without the props suggests an issue with the type of shaft, almost as if you need another stabiliser in between the engine and support at the propeller end - does question everything that the previous owner did to muck this boat up - great you guys have got some brains to investigate further, get the professional views from others - great work
The lights looks really nice but don´t over use them while out of the water I think the water is meant to keep them cool, even led´s get hot when run long enough especially with out cooling.
Don't forget the shed on the transom, for the youngster's sailing dinghy! (nothing heard about that for a good while!) - - I've never seen prop-shafts bend like that! Perhaps they have been skimmed at some time, and have more mass on one side than the other, so although they measure straight when static, the off-centre mass causes them to bend, a bit like the buzzer in your phone, only bigger!
You don't have any prop shops? There are three within 1.5 hrs from me, two also do race props.
Well done you two, following you on both boats.
I do enjoy following you both as you take on different interesting tasks each week 👏😁, I’m sure you’ve got some great adventures ahead of you once she is finally in the water 😎
Great job with the lighting looks amazing, hopefully the props and shafts will be with you soon looking forward to the next update 💙💙💙
Fingers crossed! Just want to go fishing now!!!
Simon, I fitted a diesel heater last year, like you did, I also had a bend in the exhaust ending up higher then the exhaust port. After a few times of use I heard a gurgling at the bottom of the exhaust bend. It had filled up with moisture and was full of water. I had to place the heater higher and have the exhaust port lower to cure this issue.
A shame about the shafts and props. Why couldn’t you buy the props from the states and have them shipped over? Not cost effective?
My uncle was right sadly... there an expensive hobby
Keep yourheads up guys
I HOPE YOU WENT BACK TO TO GUYS THAT DID THE REPAIRS AND COMPLAIN !!
Looking forward to the next one guys .. STAY WARM AND SAIN X
Yes, money pit for sure, but you must be making on it as would not do it if you wern't
Hi,it is not a good idea to run cutlass bearing dry,very bad for wear .Roly🇬🇧.
We put lubricant in it
Shouldn’t you have rigged up some sort of water running through the cutless bearings? Did you check the shaft coupling/transmission alignment before condemning the props?
Heat good. Underwater lights fun. Indoor lights next?
Couldn’t order from USA?
Another good video brilliant lights show 🛥🚤⛵️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👏👏👏👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
The last time I saw lights on a boat like that, was in JAWS. 😂
Thumbs up for you guys!
Simon you have a miss alibjnment between the the engine, shaft log and strut, I am 99% sure.
Be so cosy in there now, will make big difference. Sad to hear about the props, shame the advice you got turned out to be wrong could have put that money to the new ones. keep fingers crossed they do not take too long to arrive.
Raining in Pwllheli, never 😆 looking good guys, wondered who was having the disco
If you’re re-machining the prop shafts can you not machine them to take a metric (cheaper) propeller?
Do I take it that you are no longer doing the camper vans then. You spoke about them in the past tense. What are you doing for a day job now?
Where did you find that filter for your diesel pump system for polishing the fuel
I never get board watching you 2 your great
😘
Could you install a second skeg to stop the shafts whipping?
B.O.A.T. - Break Out Another Thousand. Nothing about boating seems cheap, but I understand the allure.
I think two on the stern and 4 more on the sides 2 each. And those lights will attract more fish at night. 😊
Why didn't you just order them from Michigan Wheel?
Hope you got 4 blades one ?
Look at are Gemma! Disco diva 😂😂😂❤
Love the new boat gem mine is a Canadian boat so is going to cost a lot for parts not good a but it will be with it in the end
The two happiest days in a mans life is the day he buys a boat and the day he sales the boat.
I live in Florida and have owned several boats and at some point they just become money pits
PARTY BOAT! XX
i had major issues with prop company here. marine companies can be really bad here, such a shame
So the lights are all ready for Christmas!!! :)
Looks good guys.... with all of the new electronics I hope you are making a wiring diagram with numbers and letters matching on it.... be the crap's getting out and needed such. Greets from Rock Island Illinois
Bit more metalwork and bearings halfway up the shaft homework for you Simon. Worrying as if you ground even new props just once you could be back where you started.
You could even use your new lights to attract squid and fish for them .as they are attracted the light.
hi this might be a daft question but could the propellers be on the wrong shafts, ie balanced to separate shafts
I forgot to ask do you have a cutlass bearing also in each stern tube?
I'm curious if you guys had heaters for your freshwater tank and for your gray tank to keep them from freezing
Brilliant video, can't wait to get her on the water with the glamour lights so we can do the practical part of @ardenttraining day skipper course!
why dont you try balancing your props on a free running spindle like the garages do with tires might save you some money
Are they your indicator lights 😁
? are those cupped props