hi what a great invention.any chance you could wire it from a prewired ceiling rose as to make it easier to understand for the likes of me please many thanks
Hi Arfan, in your ceiling rose, if you disconnect all the wires, in a normal set up you will be left with 4 cables. These are the cables I use in the video. It's that simple. For a better explanation of specific wiring in a ceiling rose, and lighting circuits please watch the following video - How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained. Replace and install a light fitting. - th-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/w-d-xo.html. The vid should explain everything! Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
Looks good and much quicker to install than a wago box and I'm glad you can disconnect the cables for fault finding. The only improvement would be if there was a 2nd switched live, permanent live output etc, on the load side of the box for connecting a timer fan in a bathroom tho. Maybe in years time they'll have more options available.
Hi Pouse, another great video, well done. I have 2 questions please: - 1) My new light fitting says it doesn't need and shouldn't be earthed so if I use the Quickwire Junction Box am I correct in thinking that because there is no earth cable to the new light fitting I just connect the brown and the blue to the Load Ls and N then all should be good? 2) Having watched your video on fitting a new light fitting instead of the old ceiling rose where you used the Wago connectors I have just ordered the Wago connectors and junction boxes but having now seen this video of the Quickwire I am thinking it looks better than the Wago system. What do you think is the best?
Hi again. 1) no need to connect the earth on the load side to light if not required. 2) You can use either product they both achieve the same thing. The WAGO 222 connectors can be used on ring mains as well as they are rated at 32 amps so you may have use for some spares if you bought large box. However the 773 are only 16amp (lighting circuits only) like the quickwire. They are all great products so it's up to you. Hope that helps and thanks for watching another video!
hi, very good demo n video, thx. is it possiable to add just one of this quickwire junction box into an existing light circuit (wired with normal ceiling rose boxes etc.）to add a new light to the circuit? cheers
Hi, yes you can add one junction box if you are adding a new light with new switch etc. But if you just want to add another light to a room to come on and off with other lights already there, then just take a cable from an existing light, connect the live to the switched live on the existing light, the neutral to neutral and the earth to earth. Then run the cable to your new light and run the switched live to the live on the new light, neutral to neutral and earth to earth and this will turn the new light on and off with all the others in the room. For more info check out my other lighting and electrical tutorials on my channel. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
ANOTHER GREAT VID POUSE!!!!! im slightly annoyed that i watched this video after i finished re-wiring my upstairs lighting using the 'normal' round white lighting junction boxes - which to be honest - are a right pain in the a** to use!!!!!!! i wish i had seen this video a couple of weeks ago as i would've definitely have used these instead!!!!!! are the quickwire boxes only available from their website??? thanks.
Yes it is and you would do so in a normal junction box, ceiling rose, however here i think if you added a brown sleeve to the quick wire box it would restrict the entry and you wouldn't be able to slide it in with ease as he has shown here in his video. Also once it's in place it has the indiction with the small (Ls) to indicate it's a switch wire anyway. You would then have a brown sleeve at the actual switch.
Thanks for this video Mr Pouse. Quick question; do you even need to use a splitter when wiring led downlighters? Couldn't you just link them one after another like a daisy chain? Surely that negates the need for a splitter? Thoughts please. Cheers.
Hi, that is true, you can join them in the downlight but some people like to only have one wire coming the downight and it means you don't struggle for room in the terminals if space is limited, although that's not usually a problem on most downlights. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
A lot of down lights say their terminals are suitable for loop in and out but in reality they're not. You struggle to close cable clamps and covers. In my opinion this is a better option. I'm one of those that prefer 1 cable at the light terminals.
Hi pal. Great video. Just wanted to ask a quick question. I have fitted these boxes and must say they are great. However I just want to check before plastering that the last on in the ring only has a live to it (doesn't have a feed to the next light) as such I just have 1 wire going to the power side not 2 as I dont need a feed on to the next light, does it matter which power terminal I use?
Sounds right. Shouldn't make a difference which one they go to (can't remember how they are labelled, haven't used them for while). They both just give a permanent feed. Hope that helps. Best of luck.
Hello Pouse, i have wired up 3 X loft lights and a single switch but no lights. I followed your instructions, and need to clarify that the wire to the switch is the blue one that goes to Ls terminal ? At mo I have power but no lights on. I have used the white junction box and the splitter box and taken the 3 separate light wires back to the grey box
Brown wire from L goes to common or L1 in switch, the blue wire from Ls goes into L2 in switch. So brown wire is taking the permanent feed to your switch. Blue wire is returning power when switch is turned on. Hope that helps.
Only lighting junction boxes available for now. For more info and a price go to www.quickwire.co.uk and they will give you all the info as it is a fairly new product. Hope that helps Ratch. Thanks for watching yet another video!
Yes, just use one power connection for your power in, use the load connection for power to your first light, and the switch connection for power to your light switch. Leave one power connection free as it's not required. Then from your first light you can just daisy chain to the other lights assuming you want them all to come on at the same time. Best of luck.
Hi mate, love your videos. I have used these for my loft light. Have a slight problem, the bedroom light has to be on in order for the loft light to work even though the loft light is on a separate switch in the loft. Any suggestions ?
Sounds like the main feed to you loft is from the downstairs bedroom and has been connected to your switched live rather than permanent live. I might be wrong though. Two vids that may help: How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained. Replace and install a light fitting. - th-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/w-d-xo.html How to wire a ceiling rose - th-cam.com/video/FjmC0qx1nrU/w-d-xo.html Best of luck!
hi. been watching your quickwire video as i am adding a loft light. ive connected the quickwire switch cable to the light switch and the quickwire load cable to the light pendant but the light wont switch on.Any ideas why it wont switch on..Thanks
I am considering using these to swap a traditional ceiling pendant for a metal modern ceiling light that only has live neutral and earth, my existing pendant has a single cable with live neutral and earth, would I use a splitter on this single fitting please? I assume the junction box wouldn’t be applicable for this setup ? Thank you :)
So you've taken the ceiling rose down, and there is only one cable in the ceiling to the ceiling rose? If that's the case then you just connect that to the new light fitting as it seems the wiring you're after has already been done. If there are 3 or more cables then you can use the junction box. The splitter is just to add more lights to the room to be operated by the same switch. Here are two videos that might help to explain this. How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained. Replace and install a light fitting. - th-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/w-d-xo.html How to wire a ceiling rose - th-cam.com/video/FjmC0qx1nrU/w-d-xo.html Best of luck with it.
Hi Pete, that was never my intention, just showing the viewers and subscribers new products. Progression is good! Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
Well I am a 'DIY Justin' and I am pretty sure I can work this all out no problem. In fact, in a few days time I will be taking delivery of these to add some lights to my existing circuit. Wish me luck in case I blow myself up!!!
Hi Mr Pouse - i"m thinking of using quickwire for the lighting in my bathroom I have 8 downlights, and a fan so to my reckoning thats 1 switch and load and 4 splitters should get the job done? What do you think...
Sounds about right Nigel. Whilst quickwire is a great product, with some downlights you can just daisy chain from one downlight to the next without the need for splitters and might save you a few quid. This vid may help: How to install LED downlighters - th-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching!
My understanding is you can't use flex (stranded wire). But it might be worth going to their website and asking the question as I know it was in it's early stages when I reviewed it. Thanks for watching.
Instead of extra light(s) I want to connect a bathroom fan that’s wired into a ceiling rose using a two way switching system obviously with the fan on/off switch. Is it possible with the splitter?
You could but you can just use other connectors as well. Check out my other videos on how to fit a fan: How to fit a bathroom extractor fan using a light switch - th-cam.com/video/Bi34gxa_-Mk/w-d-xo.html How to fit a bathroom extractor fan using an independent switch - th-cam.com/video/KxH_FM03cMs/w-d-xo.html How to wire a 3 pole fan isolation switch - th-cam.com/video/_d_KlW8UZwE/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Calum Smith Hello I figures it out. Put the power coming IN into power. Then take a lead out of the other power into the next switch and load box, into power. The cable as needed. Works a charm.
Andrew Larking Thanks Andrew, would having two switch&load boxes not mean that both switches could not control multiple lights? i.e. I think you need to link the switches using three core & earth cable and then take one twin core & earth cable from one switch to the switch inlet on the switch&load box, and then connect however many luminaries you have to the load inlet via a splitter
Those look excellent. I could have done with them a couple of years ago when the kitchen flourescent fitting needed replacing and i tried to swap it myself. After all, there's only going to be 2 wires, live and neutral right? WRONG lol. I'm no sparky and when i took the fitting off i found a rats nest of wires... all reds and blacks. Then realised i didn't know where the fuck to put them in the new fitting. It cost me money that day XD
Not a replacement for the example you showed at the beginning if it can't take a stranded cable. Virtually all the light fittings you showed probably used stranded cable, so no good.
Hi Jim, the standed cable in the flex cable or the pendant is the bit you remove. Your ceiling rose is fed by solid wire cables which are what you use to connect the quickwire junction box. You then discard the ceiling rose and stranded flex cable. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@UCIy-I_MrrPJO4jvR_A9B6gw you're confused. The 'light' cable replaces the whole of the ceiling rose an pendant. If you have stranded wiring in your ceiling then it must be 60 years old or more and needs replacing. Prob no earth wires either so wants updating. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE already deleted the comment as I must admit to a little confusion. You are assuming that the solid core cable coming out of the quick wire then goes to a terminal block of some kind in the fitting which makes the transition to the fittings stranded cable. The benefit being only one wire to worry about when changing a fitting and not having to rewrite the rose each time. Just a shame they didn’t make it with lever connectors or a button to eliminate the need for the tool.
@@jeriellopez4927 Stranded cables are not suitable for use with the quickwire teminations as they need a more firmer cable to push past and raise the sprung metal that is the contact, stranded wires generally do not have the ability to do this.
Down to £3.54 at superlec. Although still more expensive than wago's the price is coming down to be comparable especially since they need a smaller hole than a wagobox. But either way - its horses for courses - there are times when this will be good and times when other methods are better. It's upto the user to decide what to use.
as a qualified electrician the principle is very clever . but there are alot of grey areas . 1 the striper machine. electricians have cutters to strip the cable . 2 needs to be release button . 3 the connectors you are hiding the connections unlike pendant all open .4 price can't be cheap . 5 32amp 6 way splitter box would be a good design for ring main . but a step in the right direction
@@fijtips112 haha yeah lol its kl I spoke to their sales rep he actually went out his way to make me a video explaining how to do it without the removal tool... For anyone who needs to know. Just lift the two tabs on both sides and pull it up... it actually isn't hard at all just looks like your meant to push it in rather than lift them up... should put a sign on it saying 'lift/pull tab to release'. Anyway they are great products and I've sold tons of them.
Well I followed the manufacturers instructions and the product has undergone all the testing required. It's also marked as the earth on the product itself. If in doubt you could email quickwire by going to their webpage. I'm sure they would be happy to help.Thanks for watching.
Hi there. This is just a quick alternative to other products on the market which I reviewed. All have their pros and cons. Why wouldn't this be suitable with 3 feeds and why would you have 3 feeds? If you feeds were for different circuits then you'd use one of these junction boxes per feed. Maybe I've misunderstood your point? Thanks for watching.
Sorry to hear that. I have no control over the length of the ads. I can remove the ads all together but that is my only form of revenue without which, I can't continue to make the videos as they are very time consuming, cost me money to produce using recording equipment, a laptop, editing software etc. So a few ads for some free information probably isn't too bad in the grand scheme of things. Best of luck.
@@jamielightfoot8167 via the bathroom light switch. I've already installed the fan now with a junction box and 3amp switch outside the bathroom but would still be interested to know if it would work?
Thanks for the review, Pouse! Couldn't have done it any better ourselves ;)
Thanks Quickwire. Always happy to give new products a review and get them out there. Great product!
that looks superb. they arent cheap but the time you save makes it totally worth it
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
You always do nice and simple videos. If I'm curious about a DIY job then you are my first reference point.
Thanks for the kind words and good luck with your projects!
Excellent product demonstration as always thanks dude
No problem, thanks for the great feedback and thanks for watching!
hi what a great invention.any chance you could wire it from a prewired ceiling rose as to make it easier to understand for the likes of me please many thanks
Hi Arfan, in your ceiling rose, if you disconnect all the wires, in a normal set up you will be left with 4 cables. These are the cables I use in the video. It's that simple. For a better explanation of specific wiring in a ceiling rose, and lighting circuits please watch the following video - How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained. Replace and install a light fitting. - th-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/w-d-xo.html. The vid should explain everything! Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
Looks good and much quicker to install than a wago box and I'm glad you can disconnect the cables for fault finding. The only improvement would be if there was a 2nd switched live, permanent live output etc, on the load side of the box for connecting a timer fan in a bathroom tho. Maybe in years time they'll have more options available.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for another excellent video, always clear and easy to understand.
Cheers mate
Thanks for the feedback Norman. Glad you enjoyed it and thanks again for watching!
Brilliant, just doing my connecting up definitely will buy some of these. Thanks very much for the video. Very useful.
excellent video ,thanks. I had no idea they had been on the market for 6 years.
Great demo mate
Thanks for the feedback, glad you enjoyed. Thanks again for watching!
Hi Pouse, another great video, well done.
I have 2 questions please: -
1) My new light fitting says it doesn't need and shouldn't be earthed so if I use the Quickwire Junction Box am I correct in thinking that because there is no earth cable to the new light fitting I just connect the brown and the blue to the Load Ls and N then all should be good?
2) Having watched your video on fitting a new light fitting instead of the old ceiling rose where you used the Wago connectors I have just ordered the Wago connectors and junction boxes but having now seen this video of the Quickwire I am thinking it looks better than the Wago system. What do you think is the best?
Hi again. 1) no need to connect the earth on the load side to light if not required. 2) You can use either product they both achieve the same thing. The WAGO 222 connectors can be used on ring mains as well as they are rated at 32 amps so you may have use for some spares if you bought large box. However the 773 are only 16amp (lighting circuits only) like the quickwire. They are all great products so it's up to you. Hope that helps and thanks for watching another video!
hi, very good demo n video, thx. is it possiable to add just one of this quickwire junction box into an existing light circuit (wired with normal ceiling rose boxes etc.）to add a new light to the circuit? cheers
Hi, yes you can add one junction box if you are adding a new light with new switch etc. But if you just want to add another light to a room to come on and off with other lights already there, then just take a cable from an existing light, connect the live to the switched live on the existing light, the neutral to neutral and the earth to earth. Then run the cable to your new light and run the switched live to the live on the new light, neutral to neutral and earth to earth and this will turn the new light on and off with all the others in the room. For more info check out my other lighting and electrical tutorials on my channel. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
thx mate :)
These are fantastic to use
Thanks for the feedback.
ANOTHER GREAT VID POUSE!!!!!
im slightly annoyed that i watched this video after i finished re-wiring my upstairs lighting using the 'normal' round white lighting junction boxes - which to be honest - are a right pain in the a** to use!!!!!!!
i wish i had seen this video a couple of weeks ago as i would've definitely have used these instead!!!!!!
are the quickwire boxes only available from their website???
thanks.
I believe they are only available on website at the moment. Keep up the DIYing. Thanks for watching!
With the switch cable is it good practice to mark cable around with brown tape. Likewise red tape on older wiring
Yes it is and you would do so in a normal junction box, ceiling rose, however here i think if you added a brown sleeve to the quick wire box it would restrict the entry and you wouldn't be able to slide it in with ease as he has shown here in his video. Also once it's in place it has the indiction with the small (Ls) to indicate it's a switch wire anyway. You would then have a brown sleeve at the actual switch.
This is like using push fit plumbing fittings as well. Is the principle the same using old cables
These videos / your channel is awesome; keep it up. And the roast potatoes were pretty crunchy on Sunday too - aye!! :-)
Thanks for the feedback Mark and thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video Mr Pouse.
Quick question; do you even need to use a splitter when wiring led downlighters? Couldn't you just link them one after another like a daisy chain?
Surely that negates the need for a splitter?
Thoughts please. Cheers.
Hi, that is true, you can join them in the downlight but some people like to only have one wire coming the downight and it means you don't struggle for room in the terminals if space is limited, although that's not usually a problem on most downlights. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
POUSE around the HOUSE many thanks in taking your time in answering this. Much appreciated. Cheers Pouse.
A lot of down lights say their terminals are suitable for loop in and out but in reality they're not. You struggle to close cable clamps and covers. In my opinion this is a better option. I'm one of those that prefer 1 cable at the light terminals.
John Daniells cheers John. 👍🏾
Hi pal. Great video. Just wanted to ask a quick question. I have fitted these boxes and must say they are great. However I just want to check before plastering that the last on in the ring only has a live to it (doesn't have a feed to the next light) as such I just have 1 wire going to the power side not 2 as I dont need a feed on to the next light, does it matter which power terminal I use?
Sounds right. Shouldn't make a difference which one they go to (can't remember how they are labelled, haven't used them for while). They both just give a permanent feed. Hope that helps. Best of luck.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
Hey pouse - can you do a video on installing coving please mate
Hi Robbie, It's on my to do list. Just waiting for the right opportunity so watch this space. Thanks for watching!
top man - thank you 👍
Just been looking at these I'm about to start my house rewire think they will be very handy, thanks for the very clear explanation and for sharing.
No problem.
Hello Pouse, i have wired up 3 X loft lights and a single switch but no lights. I followed your instructions, and need to clarify that the wire to the switch is the blue one that goes to Ls terminal ? At mo I have power but no lights on. I have used the white junction box and the splitter box and taken the 3 separate light wires back to the grey box
Brown wire from L goes to common or L1 in switch, the blue wire from Ls goes into L2 in switch. So brown wire is taking the permanent feed to your switch. Blue wire is returning power when switch is turned on. Hope that helps.
that s fantastic product how much each one and can you get them on 13 amp ( for socket) loved the video.)
Only lighting junction boxes available for now. For more info and a price go to www.quickwire.co.uk and they will give you all the info as it is a fairly new product. Hope that helps Ratch. Thanks for watching yet another video!
Hi
If I’m using this junction box in a stand alone garden room for 6 led down lighters do I just delete the loop out cable ?
Many thanks
Yes, just use one power connection for your power in, use the load connection for power to your first light, and the switch connection for power to your light switch. Leave one power connection free as it's not required. Then from your first light you can just daisy chain to the other lights assuming you want them all to come on at the same time. Best of luck.
Best explanation by far well done mate very informative well down
Glad it helped 👍
Hi mate, love your videos. I have used these for my loft light. Have a slight problem, the bedroom light has to be on in order for the loft light to work even though the loft light is on a separate switch in the loft. Any suggestions ?
Sounds like the main feed to you loft is from the downstairs bedroom and has been connected to your switched live rather than permanent live. I might be wrong though. Two vids that may help:
How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained. Replace and install a light fitting. - th-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/w-d-xo.html
How to wire a ceiling rose - th-cam.com/video/FjmC0qx1nrU/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck!
hi. been watching your quickwire video as i am adding a loft light. ive connected the quickwire switch cable to the light switch and the quickwire load cable to the light pendant but the light wont switch on.Any ideas why it wont switch on..Thanks
Have connected the feed in cable?
@@roguebladerunner hi.its all working now. thqnks for the reply
Bit late to the party on this one sorry. Looks like all sorted now!
I am considering using these to swap a traditional ceiling pendant for a metal modern ceiling light that only has live neutral and earth, my existing pendant has a single cable with live neutral and earth, would I use a splitter on this single fitting please? I assume the junction box wouldn’t be applicable for this setup ? Thank you :)
So you've taken the ceiling rose down, and there is only one cable in the ceiling to the ceiling rose? If that's the case then you just connect that to the new light fitting as it seems the wiring you're after has already been done. If there are 3 or more cables then you can use the junction box. The splitter is just to add more lights to the room to be operated by the same switch. Here are two videos that might help to explain this. How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained. Replace and install a light fitting. - th-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/w-d-xo.html
How to wire a ceiling rose - th-cam.com/video/FjmC0qx1nrU/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with it.
Great wrk.. great man. thnx u sir
No problem, glad you enjoyed the video.
Please make video how hang door 🚪 and how to install new door frame in masonry wall 🙏 . Step by step. Thanks
I will in time, when the job arises.
Encouraging ‘diy Dave’ to tamper with things they know nothing about, great work. Love the product thou
Hi Pete, that was never my intention, just showing the viewers and subscribers new products. Progression is good! Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
Well I am a 'DIY Justin' and I am pretty sure I can work this all out no problem. In fact, in a few days time I will be taking delivery of these to add some lights to my existing circuit. Wish me luck in case I blow myself up!!!
@@vikingofengland You still breathing DIY Justin?
Hi Mr Pouse - i"m thinking of using quickwire for the lighting in my bathroom I have 8 downlights, and a fan so to my reckoning thats 1 switch and load and 4 splitters should get the job done? What do you think...
Sounds about right Nigel. Whilst quickwire is a great product, with some downlights you can just daisy chain from one downlight to the next without the need for splitters and might save you a few quid. This vid may help: How to install LED downlighters - th-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!
The only problem I can see is that some new luminaires use flex cable and not T&E. In that case can you still use the Quickwire?
My understanding is you can't use flex (stranded wire). But it might be worth going to their website and asking the question as I know it was in it's early stages when I reviewed it. Thanks for watching.
Only suitable for 1.0 and 1.5 t&e. Not suitable for stranded.
Thanks
Instead of extra light(s) I want to connect a bathroom fan that’s wired into a ceiling rose using a two way switching system obviously with the fan on/off switch.
Is it possible with the splitter?
If I’m adding a fan to the bathroom would i need to use both of these products
You could but you can just use other connectors as well. Check out my other videos on how to fit a fan:
How to fit a bathroom extractor fan using a light switch - th-cam.com/video/Bi34gxa_-Mk/w-d-xo.html
How to fit a bathroom extractor fan using an independent switch - th-cam.com/video/KxH_FM03cMs/w-d-xo.html
How to wire a 3 pole fan isolation switch - th-cam.com/video/_d_KlW8UZwE/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Can you split the switch as well after tacking other lights from the load ?
Can you do a video please 4 ceiling spotlights from ikea
It’s very good but very difficult to get hold of them, TLC they don’t even sell them?
Yes availability is an issue. Thanks for watching.
That is quite good
Thanks for the feedback.
If you are running two sets of lights from two switches, do you run the load from the first box to a second switch and load?
Andrew Larking
I think i’m also wondering the same thing - I have two pendant lights that I’d like to control from either end of the room.. 🤔
Calum Smith Hello I figures it out. Put the power coming IN into power. Then take a lead out of the other power into the next switch and load box, into power. The cable as needed. Works a charm.
Calum Smith Happy to send a diagram if you let me know where you want it going.
Andrew Larking
Thanks Andrew, would having two switch&load boxes not mean that both switches could not control multiple lights?
i.e. I think you need to link the switches using three core & earth cable and then take one twin core & earth cable from one switch to the switch inlet on the switch&load box, and then connect however many luminaries you have to the load inlet via a splitter
Calum Smith No, if no Switch is hooked up you won’t complete the circuit so it’s a switch per switch and load, you just daisy chain the power.
Good video my friend.
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Hi dose it matter if the loopin and loop out are connected in which power connection
No, as long as it's into one of the loops.
Those look excellent. I could have done with them a couple of years ago when the kitchen flourescent fitting needed replacing and i tried to swap it myself. After all, there's only going to be 2 wires, live and neutral right? WRONG lol. I'm no sparky and when i took the fitting off i found a rats nest of wires... all reds and blacks. Then realised i didn't know where the fuck to put them in the new fitting. It cost me money that day XD
Ha ha, well you live and learn! Thanks for watching.
Really very helpful
Glad to help.
Seen the ad for this a few times
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks
No problem
Not a replacement for the example you showed at the beginning if it can't take a stranded cable. Virtually all the light fittings you showed probably used stranded cable, so no good.
Hi Jim, the standed cable in the flex cable or the pendant is the bit you remove. Your ceiling rose is fed by solid wire cables which are what you use to connect the quickwire junction box. You then discard the ceiling rose and stranded flex cable. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@UCIy-I_MrrPJO4jvR_A9B6gw you're confused. The 'light' cable replaces the whole of the ceiling rose an pendant. If you have stranded wiring in your ceiling then it must be 60 years old or more and needs replacing. Prob no earth wires either so wants updating. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE already deleted the comment as I must admit to a little confusion. You are assuming that the solid core cable coming out of the quick wire then goes to a terminal block of some kind in the fitting which makes the transition to the fittings stranded cable. The benefit being only one wire to worry about when changing a fitting and not having to rewrite the rose each time.
Just a shame they didn’t make it with lever connectors or a button to eliminate the need for the tool.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE what is wrong with stranded cables
@@jeriellopez4927 Stranded cables are not suitable for use with the quickwire teminations as they need a more firmer cable to push past and raise the sprung metal that is the contact, stranded wires generally do not have the ability to do this.
Current price as of midApril 2020 £4.29 from Quickwire and a fiver each from EBay, so not at all cheap.
Down to £3.54 at superlec.
Although still more expensive than wago's the price is coming down to be comparable especially since they need a smaller hole than a wagobox.
But either way - its horses for courses - there are times when this will be good and times when other methods are better.
It's upto the user to decide what to use.
L stands for Line, as Brown (LINE) and Blue (NEUTRAL) are both considered Live conductors.
the ad for this played before this vid
A relevant ad...makes a change! Thanks for watching.
as a qualified electrician the principle is very clever . but there are alot of grey areas . 1 the striper machine. electricians have cutters to strip the cable . 2 needs to be release button . 3 the connectors you are hiding the connections unlike pendant all open .4 price can't be cheap . 5 32amp 6 way splitter box would be a good design for ring main . but a step in the right direction
Yep, I sell these at my shop.... Some idiot clicked them all in.... I think im left with stock that is now useless. Thanks quickwire.
There should be a tool supplied to remove the cables from the device. It's reusable not a one off item.
I hope the guy above hasn't chucked out his stock
@@fijtips112 haha yeah lol its kl I spoke to their sales rep he actually went out his way to make me a video explaining how to do it without the removal tool... For anyone who needs to know. Just lift the two tabs on both sides and pull it up... it actually isn't hard at all just looks like your meant to push it in rather than lift them up... should put a sign on it saying 'lift/pull tab to release'. Anyway they are great products and I've sold tons of them.
why would you come out of it to another splitter for 5 lights ? youd just loop in and out of each light wouldnt you surely
Place help bought spotlights from IKEA and it’s been 2 years and I still no one be able to help me.
Just get an electrician! It’ll cost you £60 tops.
Just use wago connectors. They're small, cheaper and easier to work with
I have also done a video on the wago connectors. Thanks for watching.
He DID NOT blink ONCE!
Clever editing!
Doesnt regs stipulate that you have sleeve the earth for identifications purpose
Well I followed the manufacturers instructions and the product has undergone all the testing required. It's also marked as the earth on the product itself. If in doubt you could email quickwire by going to their webpage. I'm sure they would be happy to help.Thanks for watching.
It's a maintenance free solution so no identification should be necessary.
I want this guy to spend a week trying to use this at Victorian properties on ground floor ceiling roses.
Never enough slack on the cables.
Amazing alot of people on TH-cam these days, thinking electrical work is just a DIY project.
No green & yellow sleeving
Wayne Kearney it's not required
"junction box" literally a glorified wago that you're gonna leave hanging around exposed...
No use if you have 3 feeds 😂
Hi there. This is just a quick alternative to other products on the market which I reviewed. All have their pros and cons. Why wouldn't this be suitable with 3 feeds and why would you have 3 feeds? If you feeds were for different circuits then you'd use one of these junction boxes per feed. Maybe I've misunderstood your point? Thanks for watching.
decided not to watch as the ads are too long
Sorry to hear that. I have no control over the length of the ads. I can remove the ads all together but that is my only form of revenue without which, I can't continue to make the videos as they are very time consuming, cost me money to produce using recording equipment, a laptop, editing software etc. So a few ads for some free information probably isn't too bad in the grand scheme of things. Best of luck.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Hi, i was just giving a quick feedback. Thanks for response.
Could you use the splitter junction box to also run power to a bathroom extract fan as long as it wasn't a timed or humidity controlled fan?
Not sure. If you go to the quickwire website they will be happy to help I'm sure. Thanks for watching.
do u want it to be switched via the bathroom light fittings or separately switched ?
@@jamielightfoot8167 via the bathroom light switch.
I've already installed the fan now with a junction box and 3amp switch outside the bathroom but would still be interested to know if it would work?
You need to blink more!
It's all in the edit! Thanks for watching.