I can't imagine there's much market for cells that have already lost 25% of their capacity. Cells tend to degrade slowly when young and then lose capacity faster as they age, so perhaps they have not so many cycles left before they reach 50% loss. Also, if they've lost 25% now, then balancing will quickly become impossible as with age they will degrade to even lower capacity at different rates.
Thanks for the info Julian, "Different capacity cells in parallel is completely fine." - so if one can get different battery grades, hopefully at their 'right and fair price' worth; Make the battery pack easily modular and expandable. Easy disassembly and room to expand, so matching will be easier once more cells arrive. This sounds easy, but then the details creep up: Which controller is best, new enclosure(s) and wiring, fuse rating, etc. In the end, it could be worth it - but only if you're well skilled (and has knowledge) to do it safe. Ah, time to work on my LiFePO4 bank w. 400 'small' cells - some with minor difference in capacity, others with a bit more
from my under standing is these cells are 45AH when brand new from YinLong that are used in buses for 5-10 years then relabeled and resold as 40AH cells with 10-20 years life rating left on them if they pass the 40AH test otherwise I guess they are sold off as low grade cells also these are rated for 30.000 charge cycles and the buses that they were used in charge as much as every 30-45 min on a very fast 15min charger everyday all day in some cases but they are great safe battery's for 16v, 24v, and 48v systems that need to work down to -40c
Greetings Julian, Super capacitors, one of you past experiments, have you seen recent appearance of 6 by 500 F boards with protection on Ebay, they look better than the original ones you had problems with, large tags, well soldered etc, can I tempt you to have a delve if you have time away from the Cell tests.
Are we going to change the channel name to "Julian's Battery show" in the near future. 🙂 I would never put unmatched cells in series, unless you want the pack to only have the capacity of the lowest cell. As if you don't cut the discharge off before the weakest cell has discharged it will start to charge up in reverse. Not even sure if its a good idea to put them in parallel?
With a powerful enough balancer, the capacity (in amp hours) could be the average of the 3 cells. Different capacity cells in parallel is completely fine.
@@JulianIlett in series you need the balancer to keep the voltage across the weakest cell to the minimum allowable once it has discharged. i expect it will get quite hot doing this. Or you just cut the power once any one cell has hit the lowest safe voltage level, which would limit the power pack to the weakest cell capacity. The best thing to do is use a massive single cell battery and convert the voltage up. 🙂
@@JulianIlett look forward to seeing them on the "Battery show" 🙂 Need to look at your shed builds again i need a new chicken coup and thought they might like the idea.
I’m surprised YinLongs are so popular…I’d guess it’s because they make a 40Ah that’s got decent energy density..but a lot of people get screwed over and end up with 30Ah cells. The Lishen LTO 26Ah are truly the holy grail of decent capacity LTO cylindricals. I’ve heard the 18Ah have nowhere near the C rate. The 26’s are genuine 30C/50C cells for continuous/burst. The 18’s are wayyy less than that. I know they also make a 24Ah. The Toshiba Scibs are insane though. The prismatic 10Ah is rated at 75C but I find it hard to believe it’s truly 75C continuous. That’s what Sriko says though….the 20Ah are something like 35C continuous and 75C burst. Re: your Yin Longs are you sure you don’t have two 30Ah cells? I believe if you remove the shrink there is info on the cell. That capacity is just FAR too low to be from degradation. Look at the charts and it’s pretty much impossible to get 75% of rated capacity. Unless the manufacturing of the cell was entirely fucked.
i so badly want to try 6 of these in my truck, but im already running about 90ah of Lifepo4 cells in a 4s setup and in no way do i need to replace them yet lol. maybe my next car ill get some of these because 40ah of lithium is way more useful than say 60-80ah of lead acid, and lighter weight as well.
Why do you have to find a BMS, doesn't the cell manufacturer know about their own cell management? Someone has already had the use of them, so what were they used for? Do you need subzero PV charging ability?
I bought 32 LTO batteries. Will the lifespan of class B lto be shorter than that of class A? Do you think a B grade LTO battery would be suitable for an electric bike? Would a Lifepo4 battery make more sense?Thank you
My personal suggestion is that Class A batteries will last longer than Class B batteries. The lifespan and capacity of Class B batteries are far less than those of Class A batteries. Because Class B batteries have been used, they are second-hand batteries. Class A batteries are brand new and unused😁
@@user-yr3up1ek6z LTO batteries were purchased new from the dealer. I did not purchase it as a used product. In the part where the QR kode is located, it says grade B. Is this a used item?
Those cells are huge , what is a shame is that they are only 2.30 volts each . So to make a 12-volt battery ( 13.8 volts ) for a motorcycle or a car you would need 6 of these , 6 or 12 to get to 13.8 volts , 5 or 10 batteries for an output of 11.5 volts , they would still be good for anything that sits around for months that needs a battery when needed it's not dead
yes you would need 6 cells but there more like a 16v pack that can charge to 18v and they are big in the car audio world as they like to use 16v and need big time power draw but they work great for 24v and 48v at 11s and 22s packs
certainly not good for electric car. they're much better off for short term very high load systems, either just starting batteries, or the big huge stereo systems.
![ใจเสาะบนเกาะนาคี - อ๊ะอาย สกุณาพร เสียงวิหค [Official MV] | ค่ายเพลงเป็นหนึ่ง](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jbcmGQkfyOg/mqdefault.jpg)
I can't imagine there's much market for cells that have already lost 25% of their capacity. Cells tend to degrade slowly when young and then lose capacity faster as they age, so perhaps they have not so many cycles left before they reach 50% loss. Also, if they've lost 25% now, then balancing will quickly become impossible as with age they will degrade to even lower capacity at different rates.
Thanks for the info Julian,
"Different capacity cells in parallel is completely fine." - so if one can get different battery grades, hopefully at their 'right and fair price' worth;
Make the battery pack easily modular and expandable. Easy disassembly and room to expand, so matching will be easier once more cells arrive.
This sounds easy, but then the details creep up: Which controller is best, new enclosure(s) and wiring, fuse rating, etc.
In the end, it could be worth it - but only if you're well skilled (and has knowledge) to do it safe.
Ah, time to work on my LiFePO4 bank w. 400 'small' cells - some with minor difference in capacity, others with a bit more
from my under standing is these cells are 45AH when brand new from YinLong that are used in buses for 5-10 years then relabeled and resold as 40AH cells with 10-20 years life rating left on them if they pass the 40AH test otherwise I guess they are sold off as low grade cells
also these are rated for 30.000 charge cycles and the buses that they were used in charge as much as every 30-45 min on a very fast 15min charger everyday all day in some cases
but they are great safe battery's for 16v, 24v, and 48v systems that need to work down to -40c
Jeez! Those batteries make your hands look tiny.
I'm drunk, but the size of these made me laugh, they're huge compared to 18650
Interesting! Can you find individual, isolated charging boards for these cells and charge them independently?
Greetings Julian, Super capacitors, one of you past experiments, have you seen recent appearance of 6 by 500 F boards with protection on Ebay, they look better than the original ones you had problems with, large tags, well soldered etc, can I tempt you to have a delve if you have time away from the Cell tests.
Are we going to change the channel name to "Julian's Battery show" in the near future. 🙂
I would never put unmatched cells in series, unless you want the pack to only have the capacity of the lowest cell. As if you don't cut the discharge off before the weakest cell has discharged it will start to charge up in reverse. Not even sure if its a good idea to put them in parallel?
With a powerful enough balancer, the capacity (in amp hours) could be the average of the 3 cells. Different capacity cells in parallel is completely fine.
@@JulianIlett in series you need the balancer to keep the voltage across the weakest cell to the minimum allowable once it has discharged. i expect it will get quite hot doing this. Or you just cut the power once any one cell has hit the lowest safe voltage level, which would limit the power pack to the weakest cell capacity.
The best thing to do is use a massive single cell battery and convert the voltage up. 🙂
Yes, I'll be looking at the 10A and 12A transformer-based balancers that are now on Ali.
@@JulianIlett look forward to seeing them on the "Battery show" 🙂
Need to look at your shed builds again i need a new chicken coup and thought they might like the idea.
I’m surprised YinLongs are so popular…I’d guess it’s because they make a 40Ah that’s got decent energy density..but a lot of people get screwed over and end up with 30Ah cells.
The Lishen LTO 26Ah are truly the holy grail of decent capacity LTO cylindricals. I’ve heard the 18Ah have nowhere near the C rate. The 26’s are genuine 30C/50C cells for continuous/burst. The 18’s are wayyy less than that. I know they also make a 24Ah.
The Toshiba Scibs are insane though. The prismatic 10Ah is rated at 75C but I find it hard to believe it’s truly 75C continuous. That’s what Sriko says though….the 20Ah are something like 35C continuous and 75C burst.
Re: your Yin Longs are you sure you don’t have two 30Ah cells? I believe if you remove the shrink there is info on the cell. That capacity is just FAR too low to be from degradation. Look at the charts and it’s pretty much impossible to get 75% of rated capacity. Unless the manufacturing of the cell was entirely fucked.
i so badly want to try 6 of these in my truck, but im already running about 90ah of Lifepo4 cells in a 4s setup and in no way do i need to replace them yet lol. maybe my next car ill get some of these because 40ah of lithium is way more useful than say 60-80ah of lead acid, and lighter weight as well.
Why do you have to find a BMS, doesn't the cell manufacturer know about their own cell management? Someone has already had the use of them, so what were they used for? Do you need subzero PV charging ability?
Cómo puedo comprar ese producto en Colombia ?
I bought 32 LTO batteries. Will the lifespan of class B lto be shorter than that of class A? Do you think a B grade LTO battery would be suitable for an electric bike? Would a Lifepo4 battery make more sense?Thank you
My personal suggestion is that Class A batteries will last longer than Class B batteries. The lifespan and capacity of Class B batteries are far less than those of Class A batteries.
Because Class B batteries have been used, they are second-hand batteries.
Class A batteries are brand new and unused😁
@@user-yr3up1ek6z LTO batteries were purchased new from the dealer. I did not purchase it as a used product. In the part where the QR kode is located, it says grade B. Is this a used item?
@@nihatcelik9530 I can't see your photo, so I can't judge accurately
I would be happy if you have pictures for me
Those cells are huge , what is a shame is that they are only 2.30 volts each . So to make a 12-volt battery ( 13.8 volts ) for a motorcycle or a car you would need 6 of these , 6 or 12 to get to 13.8 volts , 5 or 10 batteries for an output of 11.5 volts , they would still be good for anything that sits around for months that needs a battery when needed it's not dead
yes you would need 6 cells but there more like a 16v pack that can charge to 18v and they are big in the car audio world as they like to use 16v and need big time power draw
but they work great for 24v and 48v at 11s and 22s packs
Where is the 400 amp load demo?
You need 1000 of those for a long range electric car. I don't think it will a good option.
certainly not good for electric car. they're much better off for short term very high load systems, either just starting batteries, or the big huge stereo systems.
Long range personal EV are a niche market. LTO chemistry is capable of fast charging
yes these are used in buses that re charge every 45 mins in less then 15 min with up to 30.000 recharges