Valve Cover Replacement 99-03 Toyota/Lexus V6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- Easy to follow. Straight to the point.
How to replace both front and rear valve cover gaskets and spark plugs on a Toyota/Lexus 3.0 V6 (1MZ-FE engine). The gasket fit will also apply to 3.3 V6 (3MZ-FE) as well, although the intake manifold/throttle body may differ some.
Most oil leaks and oil-burning smells are due to these gaskets degrading over time.
Applies to Toyota:
Camry 93-08, Avalon 94-04, Sienna 97-06, Solara 98-08, Highlander 00-07
Mark II 97-01 (Japan), Estima 00-05 (Japan), Alphard 02-08 (Japan), Windom, 93-03 (Japan)
Applies to Lexus:
RX 300 98-2003, RX 330 04-06, RX 400h 05-09, ES 300 93-03, ES 330 04-06
Vehicle in video is a 2001 Lexus RX 300 with the VVT-i engine (later version of the 1MZ-FE engine). Equivalent to the 00-03 Toyota Highlander.
Parts used:
Valve Cover Gasket Set
Plenum Gasket
Throttle body intake gasket
PCV Valve
PCV Valve Grommet
Permatex Ultra Black Silicone Gasket Maker
0:00 Intro
1:04 Parts Needed
1:44 Remove Wiper Cowl
2:44 Cross Bar
3:14 Engine Cover
3:30 Throttle Body/Intake
7:23 Rear Valve Cover
10:54 PCV Valve
12:12 Front Valve Cover
13:52 Spark Plugs
14:31 Reassembly
18:12 Wiper Cowl
19:30 Tools Used - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
This is by FAR tje BEST video of this procedure. Every other video skippd the rear VC. Great job showing what needs to be done with correct tool sizes The low profile tool was just the thing. I alsp like just tje steps without alot of flller talk. You kept me from losing my mind, THANK YOU!!
Great job at putting this together and making it easy to follow! It's great to see people keeping these cars on the road by maintaining them at home.
This is by far the best video for this job! Pain in the butt process and solidifies my hate for front wheel drive cars. So much easier on a RWD car! 😡
Thank you for this video. I just completed this on the RX300 that my daughter uses for college. They were pouring oil. One of the gaskets was so hard that I dropped it on the ground after removing it and it broke into pieces. One thing that I did was to remove the two clamps on the high pressure line right at the firewall so it would move side to side. This allowed a lot more access to the left rear valve cover bolt and it also allowed it to push against the firewall giving more room to access the rear intake bolt.
Thanks again.
Your step-by-step instructions were great! Thank you. One thing I did differently was remove the 2 4mm hex bolts that hold down the front spark plug coil cable assembly. This way I did not have break the cable housing (mine was brittle also. I used black duct tape to keep it together). I had listened to couple other videos and the one recommendation I took was to purchase GEARWRENCH 2 Piece 1/4", 3/8" Drive 84 Tooth Full Polish Flex Head Teardrop Ratchet Set - 81216A-07 and ¼” 14mm socket. That socket and ¼ ratchet was perfect for accessing the 14mm bolt behind the air intake and manifold. The local shops near me want $1450.00 to do the replacement (Lexus/Toyota was way higher than that). I saved $1250 (that included all the parts and the wrench set). I did buy genuine Lexus/Toyota gaskets. One word of CAUTION - when tightening down the valve cover bolt’s they can break (not a good thing). I break one and thankfully it was one of the bolts that went thru the area where the tip of the bolt is exposed. I was able to unscrew it with my finger tips and clear the thread (whew, dodged a bullet on that one). I was using a torque wrench that was poorly calibrated. I took my time and took breaks when I was frustrated trying to screw in the rear passenger side valve cover bolt (I had to access from below) and the intake bracket bolt (those two where a pain).
Amazing video, appreciate a lot!
After seeing the amount of work involved I was a little reluctant... but after hearing the $600 charge I'd like to dyi it. Thanks for the detailed video,!
This one is the easier of the 2 3.0L models of 99-03. I have the harder one that's in the Avalons ( 06/2000 manufacture date ). A youtuber ( can't remember what channel ) did a genius workaround by replacing the bolt with a stud of equal thread type and applying lock-tight so it would not come out easily, then poking the stud through the hole of that " bracket " thing and using a nut to tighten it down. This makes it so instead of fighting a bolt every turn with a wrench, you just have to break the nut loose with a single turn and hand loosen it the rest of the way. Also you're not fighting to reinstall it.
Thanks for sharing! I have a 2000 Toyota solara with 112000 miles on it,. Nothing was done to it! So timing belt kit, seals, water pump, valve cover gaskets, Tstat, temp sensors, intake gaskets, mid pipe or coolant pipe and the air fuel O2 sensors. Front and rear shocks, tires and fresh alignment.
Excellent job explaining. I liked and subscribed. Thank you sir!
Excellent video 👍🏽
You saved my life, thank you.
Amazing, thank you!!
Thank you so much for the video - God bless you.
Dude you are awesome...thx!!!
Thanks good job it’s very good information thanks 🙏💐👋🙏💐👋
Great thorough job on documenting the procedure on this. I did not have to remove the strut tower brace bar. I just did this job in September last year at 357,000 miles and it now has 384,500 on my wife's 1999 RX 300 and she still loves it. I've tried to talk her into looking at a used 2015 RX350 but she quikly looses interest after we look at one. And here I thought only men get attached to their cars. I've done all the service on her RX 300 since we bought it in 2008. At the time it was 9 years old but still looked and drove like an new car with 126,000 miles. These 90's - early 2000 Toyota-Lexus cars and suv's are built so well that as long as you change the oil and do regular maintenace, 400k is easily doable however you will have to do jobs like this because all rubber gaskets harden over time even the highest quality japan supplied ones. My 2004 bmw 325 CI has rubber molding and plastic that was falling apart four years ago and it only has 145k on it.
That’s incredible! Great tip on that strut bar. I’ll try to skip that step the next time I have to do this. I’m all for saving time when possible. And I do plan to keep my RX for a very long time as well. Hopefully I can get that many miles out of mine too (currently 155,000 miles). She must do a lot of highway driving? I’m curious to know what all you’ve had to replace to reach that many miles?
@@jeffharrell1874 Yes. Between her aging parent(s) and other activities she's always on the go. The only issue now is with gas prices. She averages 18 mpg in the summer here in Illinois but when I reset the average I can manage about 20 -21 mpg combined with carefull pedal managent. She also likes the Rav 4 limited which I realy like for the easier to access 4 cylinder and better MPG but of course after the test drive when the sales guy asks her "what do you think?" she looks over at her RX300 and says "Let me think about it and get back to you". I get it. She is 51 and this has been the absolute most loyal car she's ever had. Lol that's because she compares it to her previous American cars.
I currently have an 02 RX and it's at 179K. Have you had any issues the drive shaft? If so, let me know. I'm just trying to stay ahead of the curve here before doing the valve cover replacement.
Hello , Jeff , thank you for responding. basically . I was changing a sparkplug of a V 6 Rx 300 0f '01. the sleeve of sparkplug at the back ,broke off where the hard palstic , about 1/2 inch. I have the sparkplug out . I did everything possible to pull it out . after lubricaring with silicon , it doesn't even turn . I was thinking of drilling it to pieces, and after that , vacuum inside . will it work? Thanks.
It’s hard for me to picture what you have going on. I would get a knowledgeable mechanic friend to take a look or send him pictures of your current situation, then see what he advises to do. You don’t want to do anything that could cause any pieces to fall through the spark plug hole and into the engine.
wow this seems like a nightmare on an rx . at least on my avalon its not so far down.
hello, with th 6.75 ft/lbs torque on your valve cover i can still see the the gasket , I used the blue gasket and its visible within the gap . that is supposed to be?
It’s possible you may see the gasket slightly. Confession: I did not use a torque wrench to tighten mine. I did it just by feel, but be careful not to do it too tight or you could break a bolt or thread (which I’ve done before 😬)
I’m seeing the gasket on mine too. I only did the front cover so far. Seems like a huge gap but I torqued to spec. Any leaks? Doing rear valve cover tomorrow and hope I didn’t screw up
How do you put the tube seals in?
There’s multiple ways, depending on what tools you have available. It’s possible to use just a hammer or mallet alone to lightly tap them in. I’ve heard of people using a socket or pvc piece of the same diameter of the seals to help evenly apply force on the seal to help it fully seat in place. If I remember correctly, I think I only used a small hammer to carefully tap all around the seal. It’s not the easiest method, but it’s better than hammering against a flat head screw driver which could slip out of place and cut through your seal. I made that mistake and had to buy another set of tube seals lol.
🙏
Good teaching, but your audio is like a whisper.
I noticed that when comparing to the average online video. I’ll be sure to adjust my audio for any future videos. Thanks!