Hello, Thank you very much for this video because it saved me a cello that I wanted to separate the fingerboard from the neck. I was inspired by your idea which is great in relation to mine, I wish you good continuation in your field.
By matching the grain, your repair is nearly invisible. Had you not pointed it out, I doubt anyone would have even known it was there. Another fantastic repair job. Thanks for sharing it with us.
I am just finishing a similar repair to a 1/8 size bass. It came to me with the fingerboard off, thankfully. I aligned and glued the neck back on. Next, drilled with a quality 1/2 inch brad point bit that I tested to make sure it fit my oak dowel. Applied glue to the dowel and drove it in. Then added another 1/2 inch dowel at a different angle, same process. Fingerboard is now glued on and I'm putting the machines, strings, tailpiece, endpin and bridge back on. I used hide glue throughout the entire process. I believe in it, it worked well for hundreds of years before the advent of modern glues. I like the idea of a peg and reamer going through the fingerboard like that, but isn't the visible portion of the peg end grain, against the face grain of the fingerboard? It looks nearly invisible, but how will it look as the woods start to expand and contract differently due to their opposing orientation? I did a through the fingerboard repair pinning, exactly as described above, about a month ago. Left my dowels 5 mm under the surface of the fingerboard, then made two face grain ebony plugs to fit over the dowels. Covered the visible circle outlines with ebony dust and added thin super glue, worked it flat with scraper and steel wool. Virtually invisible, unless you look very carefully. My concern is that my plugs came from a different piece of ebony..... how will it look after the wood starts moving with seasonal changes.......we'll see.
Thanks for sharing the video! Have you tried to heat the parts? The heat can soften the glue so it could get easier to separate the parts. All the best!
I have removed quite some guitar fingerboards. When you heat it up with an iron, the kind you normally use to iron your cloths, you can wiggle your knife in between the neck and fingerboard. At about 65 degrees the glue lets go. This works for sythetic glue as well as hide glue.
Than you for the tip Paul. I think that a cello fingerboard is too thick to heat in this way. At it's thinnest part it's about 10mm thick ebony. But I will give it a try next time!
Great idea for a work around solution! I often encounter cheaply made cellos with the same problem, the wood they use for the neck is poor quality and the neck is glued into the body (and to the fingerboard) with synthetic glue. I will keep your ebony peg solution in mind next time.
@@maestrokimon I could not find the email. I teach in the Philadelphia School District which has an extensive and highly recognized instrumental music program. I've seen music change kids' lives just as El Sistema did for a generation of youth in Argentina. On a small, old factory cello, I glued, clamped, and put two long screws through the neck and into the block. Before I fill the top of the sunken screws and touch up the varnish, with a cheap furniture repair kit, do you think it will hold? The block seems secure and I don't have the skills to make a new one. Just hoping to get the instrument in a child's hands shortly!
My cello neck broken last 3 days. After that I got migraine and don't know how to fix it because the cello still new. After watch this video I've got an idea to send it to repairman to glue it.
Hello, I know a way to remove this kind of fingerboards glued with white glue, it's a little bit agressive method but it can save you sometimes. I start adding water with a syringe between the fingerboard and the neck and then I apply heat with a clothes iron, using a wet cloth between the fingerboard and the iron. The fingerboard will heat up and the glue will start to melt down. Then I start opening the joint with a sharp plaster spatula. At the beginning the progress is very slow but then it's easier. Water, heat, pressure and repeat. When the fingerboard is removed I press it on a flat surface, it tends to bend. The disadvantage of this method it's that it's slow and you may need to rectify the neck and the fingerboard. I hope it helps you, thanks for your videos!
Maestro, what adhesive did you use to attach the neck? i noticed that in some of your other videos that you used other adhesives on the neck-body interface.
Thanks for the share! I would have peeled off the rest of the handle that is still attached to the mortice. Glued the handle and made the drill from the opposite side of the fingerboard. From that place I would have put the peg (not through the fingerboard), then reattach the handle. Another way (may be better) to do it would have been to place some splines perpendicular to the crack to reinforce it. I would never drill the fingerboard.
As the neck is was also glued with white glue, it would be very hard/impossible to open the joint between the rest of the handle and the back. Same probleme there. Also considering the value of the instrument, this was the best solution.
@@maestrokimon i see. but woundnt it be better if it WAS visible so future repairmen could understand how its together? are visible repairs so bad a thing? i think its kind of a display of craftsmanship and gives the instrument a bit of unique personality i guess most coustomers would prefer it to look like it had never happened
Unfortunately the cello fingerboard is 3 to 4 times thicker than the guitar so the heat won't penetrate deep enough without causing damage to other parts.
I'm guessing that the thermal conductivity of ebony is about 300W/K, so I would think that a lower temperature (heat lamp) for a longer time might be able to do the job.
How do I know that the hide glue had the correct conistency for a certain gluing job, meaning its not too runny or too thick? Is it also acceptable to oil or even dye the pegs aswell as the fingerboard. I dyed the boxwood endpin with black dye, swiped it off and oiled it with lindseed oil and I was happy with the rosewood like result, but Im not sure if its a bit sacrilegious or widely used process.
It is hard to say how to know that the glue is correct. Mostly I feel it with my fingers. I don't want a layer to form but it has to get pretty fast a bit sticky. Do some tests. I also dye the fingerboard some times. Also have dyed boxwood pegs for a client. No problem with that for me!!!
Because a taped hole and pin are always 100% match but a straight hole (drilled with a dril) may not macht correctly the pin. 0.5mm of difference and the pin doesn't fit or is too loos.
Amazing videos! So very helpful. I've heard you mention usinv a sythetic glue on several occasions. What do you specifically use, or what do you recommend?
I'm using the Pattex PU Construct wood glue but I don't know if it is available in your country. t's this one: www.amazon.co.uk/Pattex-glue-Construct-Glues-Adhesives/dp/B00MURMQCG
A very reasonable approach on this repair but why not use heat to remove the fretboard? I use heat and steam all the time to remove necks and bridges on guitars. Solvents rarely work for me.
What you did seems appropriate for what is likely a cheaper student instrument. I had the same thought about heat. Even 40C (varnish safe?) will affect the PVA and make it susceptible to 'creep'. Perhaps experiment on scrap - wedge a blade into a small crack then heat in an oven to see if it will pop open. Thickness is no obstacle if you allow enough time. One warning - domestic ovens, even the most expensive, can occasionally 'stick' with the element on and go way over temperature. A fool proof way to limit the temperature is required! Maybe a hairdryer and a wide cardboard tube? So very impressed at the way you made the ebony end grain match the fingerboard.
Some constructive criticism: The time to remove the fingerboard was when the neck was off the body, the synthetic wood glue should have been applied to the break only and hide glue to the part of the neck that adheres to the block, and the hole for the reinforcement dowel should have been made without damage the fingerboard (because, as aforementioned, the fingerboard should have been off). A repair as seen in the video, makes it extremely difficult for the next repair, especially if it not known that there is a dowel through the fingerboard. Were the cello to fall again, a repair as seen above, will almost certainly result in severe damage to the cello because the fingerboard will not be able to release from the body, or the neck from the block. Any instrument that is worthy of a repair, even a child's instrument, should be done in a manner that respects the owner, considers the instrument's longevity and one's legacy, and also, the ease with which a future luthier will be able to work on the instrument.
He seemed to try everything to get the finger board off. He wanted to dowel below the finger board but was unable to. It seems he did a very good job actually.
Alena, I don't know if this is more difficult than playing the violin like you do! I listened to the Vivaldi concerto you play on your channel, really beautiful!!!
you match the grain perfect with the pin, I agree this is the only good solution for these kind of intruments. I hate fingerboards glued like this so much. The chinese dudes glue it like there's no tomorrow
This just happened to me. I don’t know what to do. I can’t fix it by myself but I don’t have anyone to help me. I’m not gonna be able to play anymore... I’m so upset
@@maestrokimon well this is the second time it happened. We went to a repair shop the first time it broke, and they said it was unfixable. I had to fix it myself and it was probably one of the hardest things I’ve ever done. If I didn’t fix it right that time then I probably wouldn’t fix it again cuz it’ll just break.
I came into possession of an old Eastman vc80 that had a severely broken neck that separated from the body the glue near the neck had begun to come apart and the bridge was gone. It took a tremendous amount of effort but I was able to repair it. Glad to see people don't just throw away things when they're broken.
Hello, thank you so much for your video. Unfortunately, the same happened to my Cello. I would like to glue the neck only with out drilling. May I ask what kind glue are you using? Any brand?
For the crack I use some kind of strong wood glue. I have one by Bisson or Pattex but something else will also do the jub. You can use also a two component glue. For the fingerboard, hot hide glue.
maestro-Kimon i was one of hugo carlos best friend;i guess you know how he ended his life tragically in 2009;i was a french guy who worked for fr toto and others violin makers as a free lance restorer;i have bought from you some kios mastic a few times and i used to know sylvain as well;i guess you were greek?my name is frederic de moor. So that s a long time ago;nice to have met you;i was taking off a neck and i wanted to compare with other collegues methods;if you have an adress you can leave it if you want.i have flemmish origins.now live near chamonix;mont blanc;still violin maker and violonist.All the best to you and take care.
@@maestrokimon same principal applies,two very small holes to plug vs one large. Just trying to offer a different solution. Seems to me removal of the neck to effect a proper repair would be preferred.
@@maestrokimon I'm not sure what you did, but it should work with little to no harm to the finish. The process I use is very similar to the way guitar luthiers separate guitar parts for repair. Most guitars and cheap wood instruments are glued with PVA (polyvinyl-acetate) which is often yellow or white. If it has no effect on the glue bond, then it's either not PVA or the procedure is incorrect. The working principle is simple. The enemies of glue are solvents and heat. PVA is an acetate so water and vinegar will dissolve it. By applying heat and a solvent, you can slowly compromise the bond. I look for the largest separation at the glue I can find. Using a syringe with a fine needle, I squirt hot vinegar into the separation to get it started. I wait a few minutes and repeat the process sticking the syringe deeper and orienting the workpiece so the vinegar flows over the entire glue line. Do not allow the vinegar to dry out or the glue will bond again. You can help the process out by using a heating pad around the working area to help soften the glue. The goal is to saturate the area with enough solvent where you can progressively insert a spatula into the glue line to help separate it, working it across the entire glue line. The process take a long time, but eventually the glue line should separate easily. This process goes much faster using steam. I made a steamer from a cheap expresso maker, a hose, and a syringe needle. Connect the hose to the foamer nozzle of the expresso machine and the other hose of the tube to a syringe needle. You can also attach a hose from a bicycle pump with a needle used for filling soccer balls. After the water starts to boil, you should see steam shooting out of the needle. While you're separating the glue line, insert the steam into the glue line and allow it to saturate the glue line with hot wet steam. Every once in a while, try to work your spatula into it and squeeze in more vinegar. Here's some videos showing this process. The only difference is that they don't use vinegar: th-cam.com/video/ZSb5Tqjn6ts/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/jpw1yej0dAY/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/oVw335i40Bc/w-d-xo.html
Hello, Thank you very much for this video because it saved me a cello that I wanted to separate the fingerboard from the neck. I was inspired by your idea which is great in relation to mine, I wish you good continuation in your field.
Good to hear that the video could help you! All the best to you too.
Sir! Thats the way to repair a cello heel break without board removing. Nice work.
Nice job Kimon. That alternative repair is only visible if you know about it and know exactly where to look. Brilliant !
Thank you Christer!
By matching the grain, your repair is nearly invisible. Had you not pointed it out, I doubt anyone would have even known it was there. Another fantastic repair job. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Thank you for watching Charles!
Great Video Maestro Kimon. When the client's budget is low and the fingerboard not glued with hide glue that's the perfect repair.
Thank you Ray! If the fingerboard is glued with white glue just drill through like I did here.
What was the name of glue
Love the way you repaired. I was thinking that a dowel would be needed but I didn’t know about the ebony one you used. Excellent work MK !!!
Thank you Ed! You could see the peg is also as a kind of a dowel actually!
This was so helpful! Thank you for taking the time to educate us.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
I am just finishing a similar repair to a 1/8 size bass. It came to me with the fingerboard off, thankfully. I aligned and glued the neck back on. Next, drilled with a quality 1/2 inch brad point bit that I tested to make sure it fit my oak dowel. Applied glue to the dowel and drove it in. Then added another 1/2 inch dowel at a different angle, same process.
Fingerboard is now glued on and I'm putting the machines, strings, tailpiece, endpin and bridge back on.
I used hide glue throughout the entire process. I believe in it, it worked well for hundreds of years before the advent of modern glues.
I like the idea of a peg and reamer going through the fingerboard like that, but isn't the visible portion of the peg end grain, against the face grain of the fingerboard? It looks nearly invisible, but how will it look as the woods start to expand and contract differently due to their opposing orientation?
I did a through the fingerboard repair pinning, exactly as described above, about a month ago. Left my dowels 5 mm under the surface of the fingerboard, then made two face grain ebony plugs to fit over the dowels. Covered the visible circle outlines with ebony dust and added thin super glue, worked it flat with scraper and steel wool. Virtually invisible, unless you look very carefully. My concern is that my plugs came from a different piece of ebony..... how will it look after the wood starts moving with seasonal changes.......we'll see.
Wonderful Kimon. Smart way to fix cello 👍🏼
Thank you Muataz!
What adhesive did you use to attach the neck?
Thank you.
Very informative video! Very nice to watch
Thank you!
Wow! That was amazing, and so fascinating.
Thanks for sharing the video!
Have you tried to heat the parts? The heat can soften the glue so it could get easier to separate the parts.
All the best!
Is it not possible to make this trunnion below the key?
Very nice job and solution...thats the best way to fix it...thanks for your video...
Sometimes you have to be practical!!!!!!!
Excellent craftsmanship!
Thank you!
Thank You so much ,,,, for all of your instructions
Thank you Russ!
I have removed quite some guitar fingerboards. When you heat it up with an iron, the kind you normally use to iron your cloths, you can wiggle your knife in between the neck and fingerboard. At about 65 degrees the glue lets go. This works for sythetic glue as well as hide glue.
Than you for the tip Paul. I think that a cello fingerboard is too thick to heat in this way. At it's thinnest part it's about 10mm thick ebony. But I will give it a try next time!
Very impressed and have learned from you some thing
Good to hear Antony, thank you very much!
Great idea for a work around solution! I often encounter cheaply made cellos with the same problem, the wood they use for the neck is poor quality and the neck is glued into the body (and to the fingerboard) with synthetic glue. I will keep your ebony peg solution in mind next time.
You know, children tend to bum their cello easy! This is a good way to keep the instrument working!
What kind of glue you are using? The black one?
Thank you so much! With our innercity music program, I need to repair as much as I can to save funds for other activities!
You are welcome! If you have questions just send an e-mail!
@@maestrokimon I could not find the email. I teach in the Philadelphia School District which has an extensive and highly recognized instrumental music program. I've seen music change kids' lives just as El Sistema did for a generation of youth in Argentina.
On a small, old factory cello, I glued, clamped, and put two long screws through the neck and into the block. Before I fill the top of the sunken screws and touch up the varnish, with a cheap furniture repair kit, do you think it will hold? The block seems secure and I don't have the skills to make a new one. Just hoping to get the instrument in a child's hands shortly!
@@ardathbelzer9891 my e-mail address is info@maestrokimon.com please send me your question by e-mail
@@ardathbelzer9891 I have done that type of repair before using 2 x 6mm diameter screws. Eventually the screws bent.
could we do the same way if we have the same problem with violin
Yes yes, exactly the same process.
My cello neck broken last 3 days. After that I got migraine and don't know how to fix it because the cello still new. After watch this video I've got an idea to send it to repairman to glue it.
Great job, man👍
Hello, Thank you very much for this video
Thank you too, for watching!
No seria mejor retirar el mastil?
Hello, I know a way to remove this kind of fingerboards glued with white glue, it's a little bit agressive method but it can save you sometimes. I start adding water with a syringe between the fingerboard and the neck and then I apply heat with a clothes iron, using a wet cloth between the fingerboard and the iron. The fingerboard will heat up and the glue will start to melt down. Then I start opening the joint with a sharp plaster spatula. At the beginning the progress is very slow but then it's easier. Water, heat, pressure and repeat. When the fingerboard is removed I press it on a flat surface, it tends to bend. The disadvantage of this method it's that it's slow and you may need to rectify the neck and the fingerboard. I hope it helps you, thanks for your videos!
Pretty aggressive way, Tebi, but I will give it a try on a cheap instrument.
Maestro, what adhesive did you use to attach the neck? i noticed that in some of your other videos that you used other adhesives on the neck-body interface.
Hi that is the same thing that happened to cello I could not remove the finger board I do like the ideal of a plug
Please show me one where you were able to removed the fingerboard I need to replace the one on my Cello
As soon as I have one I will show it!
What about using a clothes iron on medium heat?
The fingerboard is too thick for the heat to paas...
@@maestrokimon Good to know, thank you for the reply.
I was wondering about putting the fingerboard on a heating pad on low? I do not know if it would affect synthetic glue.
The fingerboard is too thick for the heat to pass.
Thanks for the share!
I would have peeled off the rest of the handle that is still attached to the mortice. Glued the handle and made the drill from the opposite side of the fingerboard. From that place I would have put the peg (not through the fingerboard), then reattach the handle.
Another way (may be better) to do it would have been to place some splines perpendicular to the crack to reinforce it.
I would never drill the fingerboard.
As the neck is was also glued with white glue, it would be very hard/impossible to open the joint between the rest of the handle and the back. Same probleme there. Also considering the value of the instrument, this was the best solution.
That fingerboard was never coming off. Given the situation, I think that was a good solution for an instrument of that value.
Brilhante trabalho. 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thank you!
Hello
What kind of synthetic glue do you like?
Simple, white wood glue.
Not small but a BIG problem 😀. Thank you for showing us.
Indeed it was! Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Even though it looks easy, I am sure it is challenging when we try ourselves.
I have to say that it can be pretty challenging even for me! every repair is a unique one!
why cant you put a spline though the back of the heal? or a peg up through the button?
I don't want it to be visible...
@@maestrokimon i see. but woundnt it be better if it WAS visible so future repairmen could understand how its together? are visible repairs so bad a thing?
i think its kind of a display of craftsmanship and gives the instrument a bit of unique personality
i guess most coustomers would prefer it to look like it had never happened
Parabéns, canal didático e conteudo incrível
.
Don't understand why you didn't use heat to remove the fingerboard.
Hello sir , which glue is strong and good for wood instruments? Epoxy glue is ok?
No, epoxy is not suitable. You have to use hide glue.
@@maestrokimon thank you sir
Welcome sir, you are teaching us mant things,thank you for sharing your art and knowledge
Thanks a lot for sharing your skills
You are welcome!
Can you use heat to get fingerboard off, like fretboards on guitars?
Unfortunately the cello fingerboard is 3 to 4 times thicker than the guitar so the heat won't penetrate deep enough without causing damage to other parts.
I'm guessing that the thermal conductivity of ebony is about 300W/K, so I would think that a lower temperature (heat lamp) for a longer time might be able to do the job.
It is better to rekove fingerboard before gluing and make drill than. How do you remove fingerboard now?
Watch the entire video... patiently! 😉🎻
Hopefully, you will never have to!
How do I know that the hide glue had the correct conistency for a certain gluing job, meaning its not too runny or too thick?
Is it also acceptable to oil or even dye the pegs aswell as the fingerboard. I dyed the boxwood endpin with black dye, swiped it off and oiled it with lindseed oil and I was happy with the rosewood like result, but Im not sure if its a bit sacrilegious or widely used process.
It is hard to say how to know that the glue is correct. Mostly I feel it with my fingers. I don't want a layer to form but it has to get pretty fast a bit sticky. Do some tests.
I also dye the fingerboard some times. Also have dyed boxwood pegs for a client. No problem with that for me!!!
Ingenious. 👍 what oil did you use for the fingerboard.
I was going to ask the same question. Hopefully he'll see your's soon.
Hi guys! It's boiled linseed oil!
@@maestrokimon Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. Love your videos.
Nice idea to use peg for this restoration. I put pin a little bit more inclined.
Thank you! When I drill under the fingerboard I incline the peg more indeed...
Very clean looking!!!!!
Thank you!
Uma excelente solução parabéns
Obrigado!
For a student cello this would be ok. On a good cello a neck graft would be absolutely essential. This is a lot more money to repair
This is indeed a student cello. A higher quality instrument would have a fingerboard glued with hot glue and would be easier to remove.
How much do you charge to repair a broken cello neck??
About 3 hours of work! Do you have a broken cello to repair?
A hair dryer may work. It works on small areas but it may not work on such a large surface.
The fingerboard is to thick, the heat will not penetrate so deep.
Maestro, why are u using a remer and not just a drill and drill bit?
Because a taped hole and pin are always 100% match but a straight hole (drilled with a dril) may not macht correctly the pin. 0.5mm of difference and the pin doesn't fit or is too loos.
@@maestrokimon thank you for the information. 🍻
Amazing!!! Great!
Thank you!
Amazing videos! So very helpful. I've heard you mention usinv a sythetic glue on several occasions. What do you specifically use, or what do you recommend?
Thank you!
Have a look to this video: th-cam.com/video/jRQ-nHfHZTo/w-d-xo.html
Hello maestro. Wich kind of synthetic glue did you use? Greetings from Chile.
I'm using the Pattex PU Construct wood glue but I don't know if it is available in your country. t's this one: www.amazon.co.uk/Pattex-glue-Construct-Glues-Adhesives/dp/B00MURMQCG
A very reasonable approach on this repair but why not use heat to remove the fretboard? I use heat and steam all the time to remove necks and bridges on guitars. Solvents rarely work for me.
Thank you Dane! Heat doesn't work so good as the varnish is very sensitive and the fingerboard very thick...
What you did seems appropriate for what is likely a cheaper student instrument.
I had the same thought about heat. Even 40C (varnish safe?) will affect the PVA and make it susceptible to 'creep'. Perhaps experiment on scrap - wedge a blade into a small crack then heat in an oven to see if it will pop open. Thickness is no obstacle if you allow enough time.
One warning - domestic ovens, even the most expensive, can occasionally 'stick' with the element on and go way over temperature. A fool proof way to limit the temperature is required! Maybe a hairdryer and a wide cardboard tube?
So very impressed at the way you made the ebony end grain match the fingerboard.
Nice job Maestro, for your fee, do you charge the same if you were to remove the Fingerboard or do you tack on more?
When I remove the fingerboard and put the pin under it I charge more. It is more work and better done!
@@maestrokimon What would be typical prices for a repair with and without removing the fingerboard? I'm talking about an inexpensive instrument.
Some constructive criticism: The time to remove the fingerboard was when the neck was off the body, the synthetic wood glue should have been applied to the break only and hide glue to the part of the neck that adheres to the block, and the hole for the reinforcement dowel should have been made without damage the fingerboard (because, as aforementioned, the fingerboard should have been off). A repair as seen in the video, makes it extremely difficult for the next repair, especially if it not known that there is a dowel through the fingerboard. Were the cello to fall again, a repair as seen above, will almost certainly result in severe damage to the cello because the fingerboard will not be able to release from the body, or the neck from the block. Any instrument that is worthy of a repair, even a child's instrument, should be done in a manner that respects the owner, considers the instrument's longevity and one's legacy, and also, the ease with which a future luthier will be able to work on the instrument.
He seemed to try everything to get the finger board off. He wanted to dowel below the finger board but was unable to. It seems he did a very good job actually.
Wow ... It's so difficult... 😳
Alena, I don't know if this is more difficult than playing the violin like you do! I listened to the Vivaldi concerto you play on your channel, really beautiful!!!
@@maestrokimon thank you so much!
@@maestrokimon but your job is amazing! And vitally important for string players🙏 where are you located?
Thank you very much Alena, you are very kind! I'm in The Netherlands. It would be nice to do some kind of collaboration.
Maestro, which sinthetic glue you use ? My guitar broke and I'm going to try to repair it
I used white synthetic glue but I don't know if it is the appropriate glue for the damage you have.
@@maestrokimon thanks Maestro, its the neck of the guitar, just like the cello in this video
I am a guitar player - most guitar fingerboards are glued with tightbond - we use an iron to heat the fingerboard and release the glue.
I know but a cello fingerboard is 3 to 4 times thicker! The heat won't go so deep or burn the upper part.
@@maestrokimon Ok that makes sense - Love the videos
@@vintage27guitar55 Thank you!
Some white glues can be removed with a heated putty knife. It might be worth a try.
Thank you, I'll try this methode next time.
you match the grain perfect with the pin, I agree this is the only good solution for these kind of intruments. I hate fingerboards glued like this so much. The chinese dudes glue it like there's no tomorrow
Haha! You are right Özgün! Chinese glue doesn't joke!!
I mean, between not being able to unglue it and my instrument coming apart on my i prefer the first 😂😂
Haha! I prefer a bit from both worlds!
This just happened to me. I don’t know what to do. I can’t fix it by myself but I don’t have anyone to help me. I’m not gonna be able to play anymore... I’m so upset
So sad to hear. Isn't there a violin maker in your area to repair it?
@@maestrokimon well this is the second time it happened. We went to a repair shop the first time it broke, and they said it was unfixable. I had to fix it myself and it was probably one of the hardest things I’ve ever done. If I didn’t fix it right that time then I probably wouldn’t fix it again cuz it’ll just break.
Καταπληκτική δουλειά!
Ευχαριστώ πολύ!!!
I came into possession of an old Eastman vc80 that had a severely broken neck that separated from the body the glue near the neck had begun to come apart and the bridge was gone. It took a tremendous amount of effort but I was able to repair it. Glad to see people don't just throw away things when they're broken.
heat works to release the white glue.
Yes but the fingerboard is too thick!
Это был вынужденный способ ремонта!!!
Hello, thank you so much for your video. Unfortunately, the same happened to my Cello. I would like to glue the neck only with out drilling. May I ask what kind glue are you using? Any brand?
For the crack I use some kind of strong wood glue. I have one by Bisson or Pattex but something else will also do the jub. You can use also a two component glue. For the fingerboard, hot hide glue.
@@maestrokimon Thank you so much
Some heat will loosen. White glue
Maybe but it will also ruin that varnish. And as the fingerboard is very thick, the heat will not reach that depth.
00:32 sorry,sir? i understood as 'small'. .......Well... the aspect is repected from others. Ha ha ha
Let's not make a big problem of it!!!
Someone tried to play the cello thinking of their boss!
Haha! You should never do that!!!
Is that you who has been studied at cremona violin making school 12 years ago?
Yes I studied in Cremona until 2006. Do we know each other?
maestro-Kimon i was one of hugo carlos best friend;i guess you know how he ended his life tragically in 2009;i was a french guy who worked for fr toto and others violin makers as a free lance restorer;i have bought from you some kios mastic a few times and i used to know sylvain as well;i guess you were greek?my name is frederic de moor. So that s a long time ago;nice to have met you;i was taking off a neck and i wanted to compare with other collegues methods;if you have an adress you can leave it if you want.i have flemmish origins.now live near chamonix;mont blanc;still violin maker and violonist.All the best to you and take care.
Good to hear from you Frederic. Do you have a website or facebook?
maestro-Kimon not yet.I give you my email: frdemoor@yahoo.fr. Take care,and keep on making nice didactic tutorials.CI sentiamo!
Do you also trade a bit in instruments? I have a couple of French study violins.
I would have used steam and heat to remove the fingerboard.
Many have made this sugestion, but the steam ruins the varnish and the fingerboard is too thick so it wouldn't reach the glue.
Small drilled holes of depth to reach heel block glue joint and heat needles(modified soldering iron) see example in guitar repair videos.
But then I will have holes in my fingerboard. This is a cello not a guitar, much thicker fingerboard.
@@maestrokimon same principal applies,two very small holes to plug vs one large.
Just trying to offer a different solution.
Seems to me removal of the neck to effect a proper repair would be preferred.
Use steam and vinegar.
Steam will ruin the varnish and vinegar didn't work, I tried!
@@maestrokimon I'm not sure what you did, but it should work with little to no harm to the finish. The process I use is very similar to the way guitar luthiers separate guitar parts for repair. Most guitars and cheap wood instruments are glued with PVA (polyvinyl-acetate) which is often yellow or white. If it has no effect on the glue bond, then it's either not PVA or the procedure is incorrect. The working principle is simple. The enemies of glue are solvents and heat. PVA is an acetate so water and vinegar will dissolve it. By applying heat and a solvent, you can slowly compromise the bond.
I look for the largest separation at the glue I can find. Using a syringe with a fine needle, I squirt hot vinegar into the separation to get it started. I wait a few minutes and repeat the process sticking the syringe deeper and orienting the workpiece so the vinegar flows over the entire glue line. Do not allow the vinegar to dry out or the glue will bond again. You can help the process out by using a heating pad around the working area to help soften the glue. The goal is to saturate the area with enough solvent where you can progressively insert a spatula into the glue line to help separate it, working it across the entire glue line. The process take a long time, but eventually the glue line should separate easily.
This process goes much faster using steam. I made a steamer from a cheap expresso maker, a hose, and a syringe needle. Connect the hose to the foamer nozzle of the expresso machine and the other hose of the tube to a syringe needle. You can also attach a hose from a bicycle pump with a needle used for filling soccer balls. After the water starts to boil, you should see steam shooting out of the needle. While you're separating the glue line, insert the steam into the glue line and allow it to saturate the glue line with hot wet steam. Every once in a while, try to work your spatula into it and squeeze in more vinegar.
Here's some videos showing this process. The only difference is that they don't use vinegar:
th-cam.com/video/ZSb5Tqjn6ts/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/jpw1yej0dAY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/oVw335i40Bc/w-d-xo.html
Cool Outfit today
Thank you!