Very informative thank you. I practice german and Italian stlyes of longsword in southern Virginia. Im looking into getting a sharp side sword from them. Not sure if i want the Bolognese or Firenze I.
Im really interested in buying their "doppelhänder" and I wonder if the sharp variant is just the blund sword with ground edge or is the edge made differently.
In my experience, I have the blunt and sharp versions of the montante in this video. The sharp blade is different because of the distal taper and the reduction in the material at the edges. This also makes the sharp a little more flexible than the trainer.
There are different specs for each greatsword Regenyei makes. But any greatsword is going to have some wobble because of the weight of the blade. A heavier blade might seem more structurally sound, but in the end that also causes more weight at the end of the blade causing the wobble. The best solution is good technique to reduce the cause of the wobble, which is caused by incorrect or constant adjustment to the angle of the cut.
Very informative thank you. I practice german and Italian stlyes of longsword in southern Virginia. Im looking into getting a sharp side sword from them. Not sure if i want the Bolognese or Firenze I.
You are welcome. If you are ever in the area, I hope you will visit us, as our club is in Southeastern Virginia.
Im really interested in buying their "doppelhänder" and I wonder if the sharp variant is just the blund sword with ground edge or is the edge made differently.
In my experience, I have the blunt and sharp versions of the montante in this video. The sharp blade is different because of the distal taper and the reduction in the material at the edges. This also makes the sharp a little more flexible than the trainer.
I wonder if the flamberge version is as wobbly
There are different specs for each greatsword Regenyei makes. But any greatsword is going to have some wobble because of the weight of the blade. A heavier blade might seem more structurally sound, but in the end that also causes more weight at the end of the blade causing the wobble. The best solution is good technique to reduce the cause of the wobble, which is caused by incorrect or constant adjustment to the angle of the cut.
Does the sharp one cut well?
Would I need to use a whetstone to sharpen it more for better results
I have not had the chance to do cutting tests with it yet.