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Fun bit of trivia. If anyone ever tells you that a "Gryphon helm" is fantasy or LARP and has no historical basis. The Gryphon helm is based off of the Spoletto bascinet. It is an Italian bascinet from the late 14th century and early to mid 15th century. I do NOT recommend them unless you do not have a chin or enjoy suffocating. Even widening the breathes to ¼ inch does not help.

@@DD_Dietriech I didn't say it has no historical basis, but that some of those designs are not ideal for Harnishfecten.

I can't speak to Great Bacinets as I don't own one. But if you Look up ScholarGladitoria, I know he has one and has a video in it.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 1st comment. My apologies, I should have been more specific. I meant that as just a generalized statement for anyone that reads it. Certain organizations have the opinion that it is a "fantasy helmet," so with your educational video I figured it was worth mentioning in case a viewer likes the style of it. To be honest it is a gorgeous style of helm, but not that practical.

@ No worres. Thank you for your comments.

Thank you for your question. Sadly but understandably no. That kind of work would be prohibitively expensive and would probably get them more harassment when people got the reasonble quptes for what it would cost. There is no such thing as "Mid tier maintencae" as you put it. Once you are sending a helmet to an armorer to fix, it is by defualt "Custon work" and you should expect to pay as such. Also padded liners or suspension systems for helmets are custom work as the need to fit that specific helmet. A company like Armstreet probably has those patterns already made for the helmets they sell and the liners are made by others and then given to the armorers for the final install. Lastly you would be asking an armorer to take a risk on someone else's work that the helmet will not have a structural fail during the install. Most would not take that kind of risk unless you agree that they are not responsible if the helmet is destroyed during the install. To which I think thats a deal breaker for most clients. But there are TH-cam Videos on making and installing such liners, and if your local club/Team/Chapter does have some type of armoring night, you might take such a project on there, or do it yourself. That is what most of the people that I know who do put in Hiostorical liners on their own helmets do.

There are companies that will make liners. I've seen them while researching helms, but I do not recall them ATM. Most of the time the suspension liner is just glued onto the inside of the helm until about an inch above the brow. The flaps that make up the suspension are just tied together and knotted, but you'll do this part in order to properly fit your eyes to the eye slit. The liner will not have padding and you'll need to invest in padded coifs. I have and will forever advise against sports foam and direct towards padded/layered coifs. I have done both and when going historically accurate with layered/padded coifs in a helm using a suspension liner. The helm is snug against my head and the noise of impacts is heavily muffled making everything hearing safe. Am thinking about drilling some sound holes on the sides in order to make conversations easier.

@@DD_Dietriech Thank you for your comment. If you find this resource please put the link below. I am a little hesitant to have a glued suspension liner, but to each their own. Also the OP is looking for someone to install it for them, so it will be interesting to know if your supplier does that as well.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 I will do a bit of looking through things again. I'll probably reach out to Lord's of Battle and see who makes the suspension liners for their helms. Their metal is cheap, but they do have good liners. Marshall Historical's liners are good as well I'll drop them an email as well. Historical Enterprises keeps popping into my head when I think of this. If you have the money I'd HIGHLY Recommend their tailored arming doublet worth every penny. . . Until you lose weight and need to order a new one. Ha ha ha Nearly every piece of lining and or padding in a helmet is affixed with glue or similar adhesive. Riveting or screwing would require a god awful amount of hardware with each piece being an injury hazard. The rivets on my gauntlets have given me scars from where they rub and have cut my hands open. I've stopped using Lord's of Battle gear because of that. With some research on the topic (a TH-cam video or two) affixing the liner to an empty helm shouldn't be too hard. That's how most of us newer Smiths learned the trade. Watch a video, read an essay, and finally trial and error. The liner will peel off slowly so if it does start, you remove it, and reaffix it with a different type of adhesive.

@@Smuffy269 We screwed them into the haft.

Thank you Jon.

No. The straps are set for a Cuirass. You would need to alter the staps to wear it as a breastplate.

@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 sounds good if I end up getting it I'd probably figure out a detachable breastplate belt method if that's the only modification needed

@@josephdedrick9337 Minf you, that is a guess based on my experience with other breastplates. I am not stating that as fact as I have never attempted to do so. Personally I would advise you that of you want a breastplate just but one. It cheaper and generally some (not all) of the LoB breastplates have a globos design.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 I was expecting this mod to be rarely used, more of an I forgot my breastplate at home and don't feel like wearing the full curaiss.

@@josephdedrick9337 It is not something I would reccomend.

You're welcome. Glad you found it useful.

Welcome to the channel.

Thanks!

Thank you for the suggestion. I will look into it.

I have to be honest. I don't really use shields, so I do not have much advice to offer. But I do own a Rotella and buckler, so I may try to do a video at some point with some thoughts.

I would have to disagree. Doubles in longsword, as a general rule, are often very common, regardless of the hand of the fighter. Typically the less likely for doubles to occur is between the most skilled fencers, fighting each other. But in a world where even when fighting the unskilled, they will adopt a more suicide mentality to fighting which does still create a lot of doubles. While it might be true that in a LvR fight, the right-handed fighter becomes the "unskilled" because of a lack of experience, that should allow the left-handed fighter to successfully evade being doubled. Considering how many doubles I see in RvR fights, I do not agree with your premise.

However, it would be an interesting thing for something like a HEMA scorecard to track to see if your premise is universally true. If so it might be something worth looking into.

Thank you for your question. I ususally only do dagger in Armor, which is different than it is in Blossechten. I don't fight Messer, and only occasionally dussack, so I don't feel I have much to offer.

I have found, as a left handed person applying the sword techniques from Godinho (which is not hand specific) are effective in the few messer fights I have done. It should be said this is somewhat anachonistic, as the treatise is from 1599, but what works...works

th-cam.com/video/O6VkO7kYbPk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=J7u-bQh3Rc_sdI-Z

Thank you for adding your thoughts. In the case of the lighter Bec, I think yes you have the option of longer reach. (it is something I want to get into my collection for research) But on the flip side, becs are smaller heads way smaller than simulators used, which gives us a misconception on their use, and the need for accuracy as the smaller the head, the more difficult the targeting becomes.

​@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 Targeting with the smaller head does add to the challenge. With langets fore and aft... or side langets that extend to the edge of the shaft, I feel that that is a legitimate hitting surface. When I fight, I usually can't tell the difference between getting hit with the head or getting hit with the haft. The mass of the head above drives the langets very hard. Hitting somebody with the langets, may not do as much damage as hitting them with the head, but it will set up a follow-up shot with the head.

@@tsafa Hitting with the langets wil provide minimal force, and also created an excellent opportunity to crack the shaft. Historcal manuals teach a multitude of techniques when the head of the axe is past the target. Unfortunately many of these involve wrenching the head or limbs or usining leverage to knock down your opponent, which are either unsafe (head wrenches) of not allowed as successful strikes in SCA combat (knock downs).

Thank you

You're welcome

Yes.

I am glad you found it useful. I got an early model, so hopefully the new ones are even better.

In my experience, I have the blunt and sharp versions of the montante in this video. The sharp blade is different because of the distal taper and the reduction in the material at the edges. This also makes the sharp a little more flexible than the trainer.

Would I need to use a whetstone to sharpen it more for better results

I have not had the chance to do cutting tests with it yet.

Tim is still getting trianed on throws. This was a first dagger fight for him so we kept it on "beginner mode". If you break your toys in the beginning, you can't play with them later.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 100% gotta crawl - walk - run. Good job to Tim for a first dagger fight then.

I am glad you liked the video. Teaching the techniques as LvL helps Left handed students understand why the techniques work. They may not always be applicable but understanding why they work is valuable. Some techniques actually work better, and some don't work at all. But understanding why they "should work" can allow left handers to create modified techniques that will be effective against a right hander. Hopefully, some of the other videos on this channel will help you understand how we use the asymmetry from a left-handed perspective.

It is important to determine what you are using armor for before purchasing. I have heard, (but have no experience with) Buhurt clubs do not recommend stainless steel and prefer Spring Steel, Hardened steel, or even Mild steel (in suitable gauge) . If you are considering Buhurt I would strongly recommend you talk with you local club before purchasing ANY armor. Actually this is good advice for playing in any armored combat sport. Mild and Stainless steel are used in SCA style combat, and have been for years. Now if you are doing Harnischfechten like Dequitem, who often uses steel weapons at full speed, yes hardened steel and or Titanium is best. He has said much of his kit is titanium. But for what I am doing, and the weapons and techniques we are using, A properly padded helm in 14 or 12 gauge should be sufficient in mild or stainless steel. I might suggest that If you are doing steel Pollaxe erring on the side of heavier might be wise ;-).

It is also worth noting that hardened steel is significantly more expensive.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 Thanks for the reply :) Personally I would like to get into Harnischfechten. I am not in any club or group, but I have a few friends that would like to join in. All just for fun. My main interest is into getting a historical suite of armour that is also functional. I am also aware that a hardened armour piece is way more expensive. Its not that easy finding a middle road option that is affordable and also functional enough.

@@WoofyMcDoodle Thank you, That is exatly what my Harness videos on mychannel is for. I am trying to showcase different armor options particularly for those wanting to start out who think you have to spend a fortune to participate.

@@WoofyMcDoodle I would strongly suggest for someone in your situation to watch this three part series to help guide you. th-cam.com/video/iJJhHYiEEzA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ggm-k4SQl7Hb_-58

www.medievalcollectibles.com/product/blunt-short-spearhead/?_gl=1*grvsv*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwg8qzBhAoEiwAWagLrCrgWAGQt7CZl1zP7cIJQmWtZ9cy7qbnny3vT8NdVTbVeZEGyd9ffBoCpAMQAvD_BwE

You are welcome. If you are ever in the area, I hope you will visit us, as our club is in Southeastern Virginia.

You're welcome. In my opinion yes, it is best suited for sparring with the Akado weapons. I don't use it much nowadays, but after your post I did give it a go over, to take an updated evaluation. I have found a slight looseness in the tsuba, not making it unusable, but I can notice it when swinging it. I would take it for what its worth but I have noticed another reviewer of the akado beta version does not use the Akado weapons in his other videos. In those "Katana vs" other HEMA weapons he does not use the Akado weapons in those videos, but one made by a HEMA equipment supplier.

Its odd. The edge itself is pretty wide, so you don't get heavy burrs on the blunted blade. But you can get some burning on the side of the blade because of the double fuller. But nothing that standard maintenance can't cure.

I'm glad you liked the video. I'd be curious as to what changes he made to your helm.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 I planned on making an overview video of my helmet this week on my other channel. I can tag you in it when it's out if you'd like

@@dominickscheuringer9553 Please do.

Hey I put up the video today. It looks like they've made design changes with their helmets going forward. I mention one of the issues you faced with your perforated plate

@@FiresideHEMA Great video, and thank you for the shout out.

Thank you for your comment. I wholeheartedly agree. For the record this is not a historical technique. But as my focus is more for beginners, who may not have as much experience or means to do that, this is a way of getting started, which is my intention with these videos. I do have a video about my armor and you can see in it that my personal arming belt is more in the fashion you have described.

I am not completely satisfied with my current setup. So I would consider it as "unfinished." That said I will not put up a video until I am. In the meantime this video shows the setup I currently have. (while I am wearing padded coif underneath)

th-cam.com/video/miU05vzXNSw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=peM8jsMizjNbK57z

th-cam.com/video/UFaUuAgU15w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-f1Hdb8Iu8v1S3xR

As for the padding I did a modern helmet pad kit velcroed in. Then I added helmet liner. This makes the liner washable, and the pad kit replaceable. The fit is good without being "tight". I have taken some experimental head shots, spear is fine, but I have to admit the PH pollaaxe does hit like a freight train and you will feel it. But anyone who has taken a full force PH pollaxe hit will probably tell you the same thing regardless of helm.

th-cam.com/video/UFaUuAgU15w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-f1Hdb8Iu8v1S3xR

Thats still not bad price for a custom make. Plus it depends on what you want the Sallet for. Re enactment I would say a Sallet like that sounds perfect. Just make sure when you get the Bevor, get it from the same maker, or make sure it will fir your Sallet correctly if you end up getting from a different maker.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 I asked for a longer chin strap so that the helmet could be fastened under the bevor, , but I have yet to get more money for the bevor.

It will be a while as I am still building up my late 15th century kit.