1952 SBM Chevy PU door reconstruction & adjustment Ep 5
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- In this video I will complete my 1952 SBM Chevy door restoration project by reassembling all the major components of the door, installing the door on the truck and adjusting the door to the striker plate (which hadn't been moved from its original position). If you had removed the striker plate previously, you would adjust the door gaps without the striker plate installed and then install and adjust the striker plate to the door latch. At that point, it's just a matter of reinstalling the door panel, arm rest (if you have one), handles, and inside garnish molding.
drjsrestoration...
www.fillingsta...
The Filling Station links to the restoration items mentioned in this video:
(0:35) Door latch Part # TR-67 (left): store.fillings...
Door latch Part # TR-68 (right): store.fillings...
(1:37) store.fillings...
(4:13) Door glass Part # 4377SC (clear): store.fillings...
Door glass Part # 4377SGR (green): store.fillings...
Door glass Part # 4377SGY (grey): store.fillings...
Rubber glass scraper Part # CV-287: store.fillings...
(13:46) Door handle relay Part # TR-1: store.fillings...
Door handle relay Part # TR-2: store.fillings...
(14:35) Door handle (inside)Part # FS-24: store.fillings...
(15:42) Window regulator (left) Part# TR-209L: store.fillings...
Window regulator (right) Part# TR-209R: store.fillings...
(15:42) Window crank handle Part # FS-25: store.fillings...
(21:26) Cardboard door panels:
Brown: Part # DG-30: store.fillings...
Black: Part # DG-31: store.fillings...
Maroon: Part # DG-31A: store.fillings...
Dark Blue: Part # DG-31B: store.fillings...
Dark Green: Part # DG-31C: store.fillings...
Grey: Part # DG-31G: store.fillings...
Beige: Part # DG-31PB: store.fillings...
Door panel frames (steel) Part # SA-23: store.fillings...
Door Panel Frames (stainless) Part # SA-23SS: store.fillings...
Door panel screws & washers Part # GM-1087K: store.fillings...
Armrests: store.fillings...
Door handle washers Part # DS-328: store.fillings...
Items not necessarily mentioned in this video:
Vent post felt channel Part # CV-73: store.fillings...
Door rest bumper Part # CD-55: store.fillings...
Vent window seal set Part # CV-65: store.fillings...
Vent window rivet & flaring tool kit Part # FS-633: store.fillings...
Glass setting filler strip:
1/16" thick, Part# CV-294B: store.fillings...
1/32" thick, Part# CV-294A: store.fillings...
Outside door handle gaskets Part# TN-40: store.fillings...
![[UNCUT] ขยี้ "อลิส" ปม "คลิปลับแตงโม" เปิดชื่อคนพยายามแฮก "มือถือแตงโม" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์I 10ก.พ.68](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_RPLEIi5Sz8/mqdefault.jpg)
Super video !! Merry Christmas !!
Thank you very much!
Jerry, this entire door series is a tremendous help to me as I restore my 47 GMC. Thank you.
Thanks for the nice comments! This is precisely why I am doing these videos... I feel your pain and want to make your job a little easier!
Thank you, I'm not sure I could have done it without you.
Glad I could help
Thank you SOOOOOO much for the beginning to end demostration!
Glad to help George!
This is a very timely video. Thank you so much
You are so welcome!
Wow, really a GREAT video, better then the others. THANK YOU Jerry
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for the video!!
i'm from brazil, taught a lot to assemble the glass.
Thanks
Post more.
Thank you!
Thanks Jerry, you answered so many questions I've had, particularly the flexible run channel installation. Just a fantastic video that's going to make this door restoration so much easier.
Thank you for your nice comments! Hope it really helps and if you have any further questions, you can call or email me.
Another excellent video, helps me with my truck, Thank you.
Glad to help! THANKS!
Thank you so much for the videos.!! They are so very helpful !!
You are so welcome!
Jerry, thanks for the step by step installation procedures. It has kept me from pulling my hair out. I used felt channel from a local distributor but it is cloth backed and has been impossible to form in the corner. On the filling station site there looks to be a choice of two different felt channels. One is 8 ft and the other is 5ft I think. I didn't see a reference number for the felt channel in the video parts numbers.
Thank you for sharing...
You're welcome!
Some of the new relays have an extra tooth on the shaft! I had that problem with a rebuild kit.
Great video.
Thanks!
Hi Jerry Great info on the doors , Thanks I'm looking for the squeezer tools you posted .
Thanks! I believe you can get the rivet squeezer tool at your local Harley dealer, or I have a couple I will sell for $250 + shipping. If you are interested, you can email me at drjsrestorx@comcast.net
Wish you were here, I would turn my project over to you.
Thanks! That is a very nice complement!
Excellent!
very helpfull.
Do you have a link for the screws you used in the felt channel? Also the screws you used on the felt on the inner window trim you used in the other video? Thanks for your help
Amazing!!!
Thanks!!
Excellent video as always, question regarding the screws, if we want to use black screws instead of stainless for example what type of coating are we looking for so they won't rust on us?
Black oxide screws WILL rust so if you are dead-set on black, I would rough up the surface of the head of the screws and paint them.
Great video, I sent my 1954 1300 series truck to a shop for a paint job.....Long story short, it came back worse than when it went in. Now I have to start from scratch and do the front fenders and hood all over again. Do you have a vid that shows how to start this up? I think i have to float the fenders and hood to get it inline.
No video yet on this procedure but I hope to do one in the future. There is a chapter in the 48-53 Chevrolet shop manual that addresses this procedure. It's in section 11-5 of the manual and will step you through this procedure. A word of advice... be patient and have some help when doing this. It can be very frustrating.
Hi Jerry, thank you for the videos they are such a big help! I have a 52 gmc and this is my first restoration so these videos are a wealth of knowledge for me. I do have one question about the door alignment, my doors were removed by the painter but when he put them back on they stick out from the latch down. It’s lined up everywhere very nicely but they stick out pretty far. How can I get them back in? I appreciate any help you may be able to give. Thanks.
This is a common problem when new weatherstrip is installed and you may have to look into different weatherstrip options. You can call me at 541-405-8286 to discuss these options.
ok i just helped a close friend install side glass wing window and rollup window in both his 53 chevy pickup doors. LADIES AND GENTS. there's an additional process he isn't showing. the new felt has to be worked into the wing window track and then with a phillips screw driver stretched to the edges. to add insult to injury the main rollup door glass must be worked into the felt of the wing window's post. this guy is either prestretching his felt to the glass before both parts are installed or skipping all those processes. however, his assembly steps were a help somewhat.
I am not sure what you mean by "stretching" the felt with a phillips screwdriver. The felt channel for the wind wing post is a tight fit but will go in with some careful coaxing and possibly a little silicone spray. I put some black silicone at the bottom of the channel before inserting the channel to adhere the channel to the post, but normally that channel goes in tightly and shouldn't move once installed. I also install a rivet near the bottom of the channel to prevent the channel from coming out of the post in the future, like the factory did back then.
@@jerrykassis5181 then let me rephrase it. basicly work the material into the track. Take my word for it that felt doesnt just go right into that wing window track easily. then when it does it's too narrow in where the window goes for your glass to fit in it.
I will test fit the channel into the track and if it is just too tight, I will take a tool (anything that will widen the track a bit) and get it to where the channel will fit snugly but not so wide as to make the felt channel loose in the track. Add a couple of dabs of silicone to the bottom of the track and push the channel in. Then one rivet at the lower part of the track and you are good to go.
@@jerrykassis5181 that's exactly what i did. i used a phillips screw driver to widen the track on his 53 chevy. i'm a dodge guy myself. however, since he and i look out for one another i helped him do his ride.
I honestly enjoy your videos. They are very helpful. I am restoring a 1949 5 window pickup. I followed your steps on repinning the hinges. I have a 1/2 inch gap at the bottom of the door. Ive adjusted every which way I can, I really dont want to mess with the holes on the faceplate. Any suggestions?
Thanks Jesse! I had this happen on a pickup I was working on and the only way I could resolve the issue was to heat the hinge bar red hot with an acetylene torch in the bent areas and bend the bar in a couple of places in order to move the door back even with the body. Usually when this happens is when the door hinge bar has been sprung one way or another, like backing into something with the door open, or swinging the door open really hard and bending the hinge bar. If you look way down on my Facebook page, I have more details on how I did this procedure.
Thank you for the effort and detail in each of your videos. Definitely helping me as a I rebuild the windows on my 55 1st. I have one question. What screws did you use to attach the door glass guides to the doors? Much thanks and looking forward to the next!
Thanks for your nice comments! I need to know specifically which guides you mean. If you mean the rear felt channel retainer (down inside the door by the door latch), I believe you need a #8 x 3/4" sheet metal screw. Otherwise let me know which other retainers you are speaking of.
Having hard time finding #4 x 3/8 self tapping screws that you used. Can you help.
How do you attach the felt window channel.
Jerry, I’ve been having a heck of a time with my windows. Question - I’m assuming the roller straddles the sheet metal on the c-channel as opposed to riding all the way in the channel, correct.
Correct Mark. The double-lipped roller straddles the C-channel. When you replace the original roller, which is basically a flat head stud with felt washers, this creates a very narrow area for the new double-lipped roller to pass through the "C"-channel, so you have to use a very flat headed screw, like one of those furniture screws with a phillips insert to bolt the channel in place so that the roller can bypass the heads for the screws without hitting the head of the bolt. Even then you may have to grind some off the head of the bolt in order to have clearance.
Excellent videos Jerry. I had one problem I wonder if you could help me with. When I tried to drill through the felt channel, the screw wound the felt around it and wrecked the felt channel. Any idea what I may have done wrong?
Hi David, I haven't experienced that before with the felt channels I use, which are the "rubber-backed" channels. If you have the cloth-backed channels, this could be the issue. Next time you should possibly try drilling a tiny pilot hole through the channel before inserting the screw, but I would think that if the self-drilling screw did this, the drill bit might as well. You can buy rubber-backed channels from The Filling Station (800-841-6622) or get the ones that Precision Replacement Parts sells. I quit using the cloth-backed channels once I found out how much better the rubber-backed channels worked when trying to bend the radius. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find the rubber-backed channels in the 3/4" wide channels that the 1947-50 Chevy pickups, the model that has the metal frames on the glass, but I'm still looking.
Hey Jerry - any tips on how the pull-down exterior handle should fit it? My exterior handle may need to be replaced. It does not spring back up when I close the door.
The latch is what makes the handle spring back, not the handle itself. Pull your latch to see if your spring is broken or weak. You can buy replacement springs for the 47-51 door latch at The Filling Station, 800-841-6622, Part number SA-69. Clean and lube the latch assembly and if none of this works and you don't want to buy a new latch, and a sagging handle is the only issue, you can put the square shaft end in a vise and gently twist the shaft with the handle (be careful to do this in the correct direction!) until the handle stays level when installed back into the latch. Do this at your own risk! This is a last resort, so if the shaft breaks, (I have never broken one doing this), you will need to buy a new or good used one.
Jerry, I'm just starting to put my door back together. Other videos i seen use glue to put in the felt channels. I had a difficult time removing the glue from the channels in my doors. I see you just use screws to hold the felt channels in. Which way were they done from the factory, glue or screws? again, thanks for your videos. Paul
Generally I have seen metal clips installed on the back side of the channels. This is done by a factory machine and is not practical today for the home restorer. The use of self-drilling screws is what I have found to work the best for me. Glue just makes a mess for the next person and does no better of a job.
Jerry how do I find that rivet setter you use? The one you used on the vent windows.
You can try your local Harley Davidson dealer to see if they can order one for you. Just make sure you get the tool with the proper tooling to flare the semi-tubular rivets and expect to pay $300+ for it.
Not sure how you did this so easily and the window works effortlessly. I fought mine for 2 hours and the window is extremely hard to roll up, i cant get it to move more than 2 inches up. What do I need to do differently.
Not sure but it sounds like something is pinching the door window. If you can push the window up and down with the regulator disconnected, then I would suspect the window regulator. otherwise the channels are either pinching the glass or the distance between the vent post and the rear of the window channel could be too tight.
Great Video again...I will going to use them for my restoration 😉👍.
One question: what's the best way to put on this outer window trim? Seems to be difficult and the part of assembly where you can scratch most of your fresh new colored door and trim 🤔.
Thanks, Regards from Germany 👋
Hi and thanks for the nice comments! Are you talking about the trim that goes all the way around the inside of the window opening and is split at the top of the window? If so, there isn't a great way to prevent scratches other than being super careful and possibly widening the channel before you install it. The thing is that you probably won't scratch anything that will be seen once installed. You can use blue tape for protection in places that you can remove it after installation. Hope this helps! Good luck on your restoration. If you have any other ideas for future videos, please let me know.
Dr. J
@@jerrykassis5181 Hi Jerry, love your videos, can you show how to install the chrome trim around the outside of the doors, when both door and trim are aftermarket? What a pain, nothing fits. Thanks, Vincent. Merry Christmas.
need a link for those no.4 self tappers
The #6 should work. The #4's are difficult to find.
www.ebay.com/itm/6-Self-Drilling-Sheet-Metal-Screws-TEK-Tap-Pan-Head-Stainless-Steel-All-Sizes/263162027646?var=562159980733&hash=item3d45adde7e:m:mqdbAhukx7AlEY-3ktAcgIQ:sc:USPSFirstClass!97355!US!-1
I looked on e bay I can’t find them . Nothing I say came ever close to what you are using .
www.ebay.com/itm/363736121254?hash=item54b05cbfa6:g:qGoAAOSwQkJiEcMh
What is the eBay item number on those screw you get .. I am doing my 54 Chevy coe door the parts I bought are not good quality . And I can’t return them . I have to use them. Can you send
Me that number asap please . Or can I just call you ? Ty
Flat-head self drilling screw, #6 x 3/8", eBay link: www.ebay.com/itm/174032792036?var=472844108386
Pan head self drilling screw, #6 x 3/8", eBay link: www.ebay.com/itm/401883443974?var=671723633940
Just click the links above to order these screws. You have to buy a lot of them so share them with your restoration friends! I can sell you small quantities at $.16 each + shipping. Contact me at: drjsrestorx@comcast.net