1952 Chevy pickup doors disassembly Ep 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ต.ค. 2020
- 1952 Chevy pickup door disassembly. This is a first in a five part series to show you how I disassemble, repair, reassemble, mount and adjust the doors.
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Thank you Jerry. In redoing my dads old 51 chevy truck. I am just reassembling the door now. And I thank you for all the good tips. Keep up these great videos..
Glad to help! Thanks!
Great Video, I learned a lot, Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
very good i find tools in you store , i have make order thanks thanks thanks
You are welcome
Have a 1948 GMC truck .. passenger door wont open.. there is a door lock below the handle .. I do not have any keys .. but been trying to get that door open and not sure how the door mech works .. if the key door lock will allow the interior handle to unlock the door or not or if you have to open the key lock first before the door will open .. Kind of scratching my head on that one
Thanks Jerry, while you are in rebuild mode on the vent windows, can you also show how to replace the spring in the door relay behind the handle shaft. I just bought a pair from the filling station
I didn't know that The Filling Station had the door relay spring available?
Good stuff Jerry, are the nuts that hold the hinge to the cab a captured nut on the 52 and 53, i have a 53 and a 55 2nd , i think on the 55 the nuts float for adjustment, thanks Mike
The door hinges nuts on 47-55 1st series are captured and non-adjustable. Most of the adjustments are done on the hinge bars in the door. There is a little vertical adjustment on the hinge to cab, but not much.
@@jerrykassis5181 thank you Jerry, really enjoyed the vent window overhaul, I am so glad that my 53 and 55 2nd have them, I am surprised all the old Chevy’s didn’t have them
what tool do you use to unscrew a clutch head bolt? the hinge bolt, a kind of slot
The Filling Station (www.fillingstation.com) sells a Clutch Head Set , part # SA-115. You can also get Clutch Head bits for a 3/8" ratchet, which is nice if you run into stubborn screws, part # SA-115S
Hi Jerry, you mentioned using a 9/16 socket for the lower vent window post, i think mine has a 1/2 socket
My mistake! It is a 5/16" hex bolt and takes a 1/2" socket. I was just testing you to see if you were listening... ;>)
@@jerrykassis5181 I know you were, you don’t have enough videos they are fantastic
Jerry do you ever use a camera to see in places like this door?
I haven't but you certainly can. I usually use a flashlight and look through the weep holes at the bottom of the door.
Wow such a great video, jerry do you have a video of how to replace window regulator. I'm looking to replace mine on my 53' thank you
Not yet, but a good suggestion for future videos!
@@jerrykassis5181 great videos learned so much from you, thank you. I have to replace passenger window regulator this summer. I have an idea how to, but it's nice seeing it done. Ty
In order to replace the regulator, you will need to remove the vent window assembly and door glass. Removing the vent window will allow you to slide the glass off the rollers of the window regulator. Once the door glass and vent are out of the way, the regulator can be replaced by removing the attaching screws. You might want to remove the rear felt retainer at the same time to inspect and either replace or repaint it while you have these parts out of the way. These retainers are available in reproduction from The Filling Station, 800-841-6622. Part number CD-82L or R (left or right)
@@jerrykassis5181 thank you Jerry for getting back to me in that, I will try to do when the weather gets a little better. You make some great videos thanks again
you forgot to mention the top screw in the retainer, you mention it in the reassembly video, and I feel like it will bite a lot of folks in the butt when they go to remove the retainer and only remove the bottom two screws, just trying to help
Oops! Guess I missed that one, but I think most will figure it out. Thanks for the comments!
I know this is an old video, but if anybody finds a good solution to removing the bottom vent window post that is completely rusted shut.
If you are talking about the pivot post (with the nut, washers & spring) and not the post with the felt channel in it, I use a propane torch to heat up the nut. Then hit the rusted area with penetrating oil and work the nut back and forth with a socket. When it moves, you are usually home free. If you are talking about the bolt at the bottom of the vertical post down inside the door, I will use a small butane torch to heat up the nut, lock the post against the outside door skin with a Vise Grip pliers so it can't twist on you, hit the bolt with some penetrating oil and and work the bolt until you can get it to move.
I had to end up cutting a new access panel to apply heat and remove bolt. It was a major pain.